Bmw e36 do it yourself steering rack repair

The gur system of the BMW E36 (power steering) is quite simple. It goes, as it were, apart from everything else, in contact with the engine at the attachment point of the power steering pump and with the steering shaft near the steering rack. Of course, the V-belt that turns the attachment on the engine also turns the power steering pump. Otherwise, the system is autonomous.

The power steering includes the pump mentioned above, an expander reservoir, a steering rack and high-pressure conductive hoses that connect it all. The idea is that the engine builds up pressure in the steering rack, helping the driver turn the steering wheel, the expansion tank makes sure that there is a constant fluid-filled circuit in the system, and the steering rack increases the driver's effort by converting the power steering fluid pressure into the desired vector depending on the direction of rotation steering wheel.

The weak point of the car, as many believe, forgetting that the car is no longer new, and this unit is under constant load. The steering rack of the BMW E36 is no better than on other cars.

There are two types of power steering in cars - hydraulic and electric. we do not touch on the second, but the first is the same for all and differs only on the basis of the design features of the car. The principle of operation has already been briefly announced - the redistribution of additional effort from the fluid under high pressure towards the steering wheel. Hence the first conclusion - the car can drive safely, in the event of a power steering malfunction, it will only be harder to turn the steering wheel.

The next important point is that the currently old rail simply cannot but break. This is primarily reflected in oil leaks under the machine. Determined visually. It is necessary to repair it, since the oil must not flow out of the system, otherwise sooner or later everything will leak out, the circuit will air up and there will be problems with the pump.

It will not be possible to repair it yourself - the maximum (and often the minimum) must be removed and given to the workshop by turners and locksmiths.

Tips often have to be changed - they break from ours dearly. You can do this yourself, and even without a pit - just by unscrewing the wheel and lifting the machine from the working side with a jack.

The gur bmw e36 pump is attached to the engine in the front from the lower right side, if you float in front of the car. Tank, rail and pump are nearby.

Power steering pumps are not repaired, since the cost of repair is comparable to the cost of a new pump. The price of the issue is from 50 USD. for Chinese substitutes, up to 300 for a native BMW.

Trouble begins with the hum of the pump. If the hum is strong, similar to grinding and reacts to the movement of the steering wheel, then the first step is to check the fluid level in the hydraulic booster reservoir. If empty - top up and look for where it leaks (usually from the steering rack) Here it is described how to replace the power steering fluid.

In addition to the absence of liquid in the system, airiness, clogging of the line with debris (usually a filter) or a weakening of the V-belt (the latter is unlikely) may occur. In any case, problems appear either with a characteristic hum from under the hood, or with an increase in the load on the steering wheel when cornering.

The repair consists first in replacing the power steering fluid, then, if the first did not help, replacing the pump and fluid.

09 July 2012

oil flows from the steering rack where the steering wheel is attached. Is there some kind of oil seal? with a hydraulic booster.

Probably just need to change the sealing washers.

09 July 2012

09 July 2012

10 July 2012

Is it possible to eliminate the leak yourself?

Of course it is possible, but this is provided that the arms grow from the right place. You buy a steering rack repair kit and change the whole thing. If my memory is not mistaken, then you only need to replace the oil seals on the shaft, there are 8 of them.If it leaks from the bolt that connects the g / y and the rail, then replace the washers.

10 July 2012

Smoke a google search, there should be a detailed report.

10 July 2012

people, tell me who did it himself

I did it myself. If it flows from the rail itself, then I do not advise you to climb inside it, since you need to know where to turn and turn what. Here, for example, a photo of a repair kit, if you can replace the whole thing, then go ahead.

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10 July 2012

leilton 11 July 2012

11 July 2012

the rail also flowed. I took it off, but not completely disassembled it. flowed only on one side, which is shorter, I bought the oil seal and replaced all the leaks for a year now. It is easy to understand just not to confuse how to put the worm you need.

The steering racks on the famous "boomers" are those integral parts that require regular complex repairs and maintenance. Fans of a "sporty" driving style are especially affected, but this should not be surprising, since the steering mechanism in such a situation is exposed to excessive loads.

Of course, the most important thing in a renovation is its cost. We did a little research and called both local "Kuzmichs" and normal salons. The cost is about one - starts from 5,000 rubles, ending with 90,000 rubles.

And if you order the racks on Ebey yourself and give it in the salon, you can keep within 20 thousand rubles. The rake itself will cost 15 thousand rubles, and the installation will cost 5 thousand rubles.

To carry out repairs on these models, the steps should be similar. First, the rail is dismantled and cleaned of the existing dirt. After that, it is visually inspected and tested on a stand that artificially creates working conditions.

The repair itself may consist of replacing:

• faulty parts,
• bushings,
• seals,
• as well as surface grinding.

At the end of the work, the rack is mounted back, hydraulic fluid is poured and tested. Sometimes such repairs can be done by yourself if the violations are minor. When sanding is needed, a service center is indispensable.

1. Raise the car higher to make it easier to work.
2. We drain the liquid.
3. We remove the wheels and unscrew the rods with levers.
4. Let's raise the engine.
5. We unscrew the pillows and stretcher.

Then we remove the rail by disconnecting the hoses. It only goes to the right.

We unscrew it from the traction rail and wash it.

On the E60 fives, the most sore spot is associated with the rail:

Because of her, appear clang and knock when crossing irregularities. The repair consists of a complete disassembly, replacement of bushings (and it is advisable for domestic realities to install not factory ones, but self-made ones with reinforcement), replacement of lubricant and fluid.

An example of a new and clean steering rack. Focus on them - it's better to pay a little extra than to buy the part again later.

Here is a video, maybe some tricks will help you:

We drain the liquid, then remove the rail. In general, we do everything according to the photo gallery:

Before removing the centering plastic sleeve from the worm, remember its location. Remove the retaining ring and unscrew the worm cap and nut. Dismantle the worm. From the right rack and pinion end, remove the flange that has the gland and bushing. Mount the new parts in the same way.

A typical BMW E30 steering rack is as small as the car itself.

After removing the rail, knock out and unscrew the cover equipped with an adjusting screw. The bushings are pressed in by the factory, so you need to pick them out. Better to change to homemade (from caprolon) sliding fit.

To fix them, drill a hole in the housing, cut the threads and screw in the retainer. After installation by punching, fix the cover.

Drive on good roads! No other way - a German made a car specifically for high-quality highways, not ours ...

Therefore, BMW enthusiasts should think about the consequences of ill-conceived races on rough terrain. So that.

Comments on article 5, leave yours:

I still didn't find a man, but your instructions helped my e36 boomer a lot!)))

Thank you for the detailed instructions with photos, otherwise I was tormented with these slats.Of course, when I bought the 2004 X5, I knew that I would run into some problems, but not with the steering wheel -))

Thank you very much for such a clear instruction, thanks to you, I refrained from going to the car service and saved a lot of money, I recommend everyone to repair the steering racks on their own - there is nothing complicated about it.

As they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands do =)

in general, it is not safe to carry out such repair work yourself, it is better to take the car to a MOT or to some kind of car service, than later it turns out that it is three times more expensive to restore what you thought of there than a simple repair of rails

If knocks and leaks of the steering rack were noticed, do not rush to look for a new one, it is not difficult to repair it yourself.
Below, as an example, the repair of a Bmw e46 TRW rail is considered. The rail is quite old, this company does not make repair kits, it is difficult with spare parts, but there is one place where you can buy everything and it is quite cheap.
We drain the slurry, throw off the rail, wash it, so that it would be easier to work.

We turn away everything that can be turned away

Good day to all! Tell me if you know. The situation is this: when turning the steering wheel out of the extreme p.

Hello everyone, there was a vibration from 1000-1500 rpm, I wang an automatic transmission on a bagel, in fact, what kind of offices.

Hello everybody. Maybe someone has contacts of an intelligent repairman.

I welcome everyone. The theme is this. Due to the increased fuel consumption and gray smoke during acceleration above avg.

hi guys) selling original.

Hello. Italian replica, wide: front 8j, bridgestone tires 225/35/19 rear 9j.

Who collided ?, bmw e39 crack on the glass at the point of attachment of the rack, the crack comes out of the hole.

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tysum Dec 17, 2015 12:10 pm

Mr_nice_guy Dec 17, 2015 12:44 pm

Turn this nut clockwise. Only twist there very gently, literally by division or even half division. And it is better to outline where you started to twist. In general, if there is output in a worm or shaft, then it will not help there, you will squeeze the rack, it will spin harder, but the backlash will not go away really, and the pump will pump harder and it may die.

Maximka Dec 17, 2015 12:45 pm

tysum Dec 17, 2015 12:51 pm

tysum 17 Dec 2015, 13:01

Mr_nice_guy wrote:

Turn this nut clockwise. Only twist there very gently, literally by division or even half division. And it is better to outline where you started to twist. In general, if there is output in a worm or shaft, then it will not help there, you will squeeze the rack, it will spin harder, but the backlash will not go away really, and the pump will pump harder and it may die.

Mr_nice_guy 17 Dec 2015, 13:29

There was the same garbage with fat, the tightening does not help, I tried it myself, the restoration of the rail solved the issue. I will not say about unscrewing. A knock can cause worn bushings and the tightening has nothing to do with them. Better to give the rail for restoration or try to find a live one.

Maximka 17 Dec 2015, 13:31

Kulichok 17 Dec 2015, 13:33

Edelweiss 17 Dec 2015, 13:49

tysum 17 Dec 2015, 13:54

Mr_nice_guy 17 Dec 2015, 13:55

Reiku boo is a cat in a poke, I changed the boo rail and it went as far as 5 thousand km from me and knocked, although they removed it from the car with low mileage.Previously, they cost 100 tanks, that is, 800-1000 UAH, which was normal, now they ask for 2500 and no guarantees, you can arrange a warehouse of rails in the garage. Repair costs UAH 2,000. Those who restore normally, change everything there, check under pressure and give a guarantee, they gave me 40 thousand. If the shaft of the khan, they do not even take it for repairs. Well, so everyone decides for himself.

Edelweiss Dec 17, 2015 4:02 pm

BMW steering rack repair. If you notice knocks or leaks of the steering rack, you should not immediately run to a car service and install a new one, try to repair it yourself. In this article, we will look at the procedure for repairing a steering rack using the example of a BMW e46.

The main factors indicating the presence of malfunctions of the BMW steering rack are considered to be the characteristic knock from the front or right side of the suspension or oil leak. When these signs appear, do not panic ahead of time. The reason for the noise can be steel, simple loosening of the rail from external influences. Such a defect is corrected by a banal adjustment of a special screw. The cause of the leak can be a worn-out steering rack oil seal, which is easy to replace.

Dismantle the steering gear

If the above signs are found, the nature of the breakdown should be identified. Before starting the procedure for repairing the steering rack of a BMW (like a car equipped with airbags), first lock the wheels in the "straight" position, then remove the ignition key from the lock. Ignoring this requirement may damage the loop that signals the driver's airbag, up to and including rupture.

We dismantle the steering gear, for this:

1. We put the car on a viewing ditch or lift.
2. We pump out the fluid from the power steering reservoir.
3. Dismantle the front wheels and remove the tie rod ends.
4. Unscrew the nuts and bolts holding the shaft and body bracket and remove the bracket together with the steering wheel and shafts.
5. Unscrewing the nuts from the side of the hood, we separate the steering gear from the front of the body.
6. Give the steering gear forward until the pinion comes out of the front of the body.
7. Remove the steering gear by pulling it out in the direction of the right wheel.
All dismantled parts must be rinsed, or blown out with compressed air.

We repair the steering rack Bmw

We drain the liquid, remove the rail, thoroughly wash it, in particular, to make it easier to find defects.

We turn away all the parts that can be turned off.

On the right you will see a retaining ring, remove it.

From the top of the worm we take out the plastic centering sleeve (be sure to remember its position) and we see the retaining ring, remove it. Unscrew the cap from the bottom, then the worm nut and carefully knock it out.

Then, at the right end of the rail, we begin to slowly remove the flange with the bushing and the oil seal, pulling the shaft towards us.

We take out the oil seal and bushing

Install new parts in the same way. I pressed it with my hands, resting the flange on the table.
We clean the rail inside with gasoline. There is another oil seal in the center of the rail, I knocked it out with a long-handled screwdriver. A new oil seal can be installed in two ways: with a shaft or a head (you need to wrap it with paper tape to avoid damaging the mirror). In our case, the second method was used, it seemed more practical and convenient.

If there are defects on the worm or on the shaft, rubbing (belt) from the oil seals, you should polish these places with an abrasive cloth 2000. The piston rings (let's call them that) on the shaft and the worm, in my case, were in good condition, so I did not touch them ...

We replace oil seals, fluoroplastic (caprolon) elements with new ones from rem. Kit, and also lubricate the bearings with pentosin.

Now we begin to insert the shaft, having previously wrapped the teeth with paper tape, so we will not damage the internal oil seal. There are two ways to wrap the teeth: grease them a little with pentosine or oil and wind up the tape. Thus, we get a kind of cover that can be easily removed. Or we glue paper tape with a strip of several layers on the toothed part of the shaft.

It's time to insert the worm.If necessary, you can turn it 180 degrees if there are signs of wear (in my case, I did not turn it over). To do this, as I indicated above, you need to remember (mark) the position of the plastic guide of the worm.

Be sure to treat the gear pair with new grease. I smeared with Castrolovsky lithol of a bright green color, in theory it should contain lithium additives. The price is about 300 rubles.

The photo shows the contents of two original ZF kits for one rail. Zap. parts can be purchased at>