Bmw e39 do-it-yourself abs block repair

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Do-it-yourself abs block repair

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The BMW E39 is equipped with a system that unlocks the wheels during emergency braking. This system is included in most new cars. The main function of ABS - in a critical situation, prevents the wheels from completely blocking during heavy braking. This system also helps to better control the machine during hard braking. This mostly happens when entering a corner and also on an icy road. The ABS system includes:

• Control block.
• A lamp that indicates a system breakdown. It is located in the cabin on the instrument panel.
• Special sensors located on BMW wheels.

An electronic device, which is located in the control device, performs the function of monitoring the appearance of problems in the system itself. In the event of a breakdown, a light on the information panel lights up, and the system itself ceases to function. Driving a car in such a situation is allowed, but with a sharp braking, the car will behave differently. Almost any BMW E39 driver can diagnose and fix problems in the system.

After starting the car, the check of the ABC system begins. At the same time, the lamp in the cabin on the dashboard lights up for 3 seconds. After the elapsed time, the lamp goes out. If the indicator does not go out, do the following:

1. If the car was moving, it should be stopped and the engine turned off. It should take 3 minutes. Then start the car again.
2. You should check the voltage in the battery - 10.5 watts.
3. It is necessary to check the terminals and power wires.
4. View all the wires that go to the sensors on the wheels.

If the bulb continues to work, you should contact BMW service professionals for diagnosis. Using a special electronic device, information is read from the block and the point of the problem is determined.

To understand that there is a problem with the E39 ABS unit, you can notice a different behavior of the car:

1. No communication with wheel sensors.
2. Installing new sensors does not solve this problem.
3. The order of destruction of the block according to the sensors: left - behind; right - in front; front - left; back - right.
4. The speedometer stops working.
5. Indicators on the instrument panel in the cabin are on, indicating a problem.
6. After the BMW has warmed up, the system switches off automatically.
7. ABC turns off when driving on uneven road surfaces.

Self-checking should begin with the electric sensors of the cycle numbers. The device is fixed on the hub with bolts. Therefore, the assembly with the brake disc and other parts should be removed. The bolts can be unscrewed with a special key - a hexagon, counterclockwise. For better removal, sprinkle the bolts with WD-40 (special tool - vedeshka).

After removing the sensor, disconnect the connector located on the wing at the top. You should also check the wires for integrity.If the wire is damaged, it must be replaced with a new one; twisting and insulation in this case is not suitable. The wire needs the same length and the same cross section. Sensor resistance 0.9-1.3 kOhm.

In the BMW E39 until 1999 there were no problems with the anti-lock system. But newer releases of the car have such a weak point. This is due to an unsuccessful fixation of the control unit. It is located near the power unit. To restore the hydro-electronic unit after 1999, you will need a soldering iron, rosin and tin.

The weak point of the control unit is the conductors that connect the connector to the device board. Contact is lost in this place. This is due to constant vibration, as well as sudden changes in temperature.

1. Remove the cover from the block with a large knife or a hacksaw.
2. With careful actions, you should remove the protection layer that is located on the edge of the board. It is not necessary to remove the entire layer. You need access to conductors. They are made of aluminum and run from the board to the connector. Using a regular needle, check the contact. The needle should be lightly pricked into the conductor.
3. The conductor is removed with tweezers or tweezers without contact. And in its place put a new one with the help of soldering. Copper wire is the best conductor. The same section and alloy wire from the mobile phone charger.
4. There are 16 wires connected to the connector itself. They all need to be checked. If there is no conductivity, the wire changes in the same way.
5. Before you install the cover in its place, use a sealant. The block returns to its place in the car. High pressure pipes and sensor contacts are connected to it.

If the ABS unit has already been repaired, then it cannot be repaired again. You should purchase a new one in a specialized store. This block should not be dropped on exploration sites. Most often it has defects.

The operation of a BMW car with a broken ABS system is allowed, but this is the safety of the driver, passengers and others.

The BMW E39, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent the wheels from completely locking up when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when the brake pedal is pressed hard, especially when cornering and during icy conditions. The ABS consists of the following components: a hydro-electronic control unit, a system malfunction indicator lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the vehicle's wheels.

The main task of ABS is to prevent the wheels from completely locking up when braking in an emergency.

An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, the malfunction indicator lights up and the system turns off. At the same time, you can drive a car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.

BMW E39 in 1999 has undergone restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheels during braking. In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are spaced apart on the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the passenger compartment (behind the glove box).

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.

Wheel sensors have also been changed.Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for mounting, and the chip is painted blue.

After turning the key in the ignition lock, the system diagnostics starts. The ABS light stays on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the light stays on for a longer period of time or starts to glow while driving, follow these steps:

1. Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
2. Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
3. Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
4. Check the integrity of the wires coming from the sensors on the wheels.

If the anti-lock braking system light continues to burn, then most likely you will have to contact a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there. Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.

ABS diagnostics should begin with checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you must remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolt, you can unscrew them with a hexagon. Before dismantling, treat everything with WD-40.

ABS diagnostics should begin with checking the speed sensors

After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Before checking the sensor, make sure the wires are intact. If there is damage, then the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what it is about, then it is better to contact a specialist in radio electronics. The working sensor must have a resistance in the range of 0.9–1.3 kOhm.

For the BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models since 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydro-electronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.

The sore point of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Contact is often lost in them due to frequent temperature changes and vibration. How to fix this defect, consider below.

1. Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
2. Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. They cover the entire surface. There is no need to remove the entire layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Picking up a needle, carefully check the contact. To do this, just poke a needle into the conductor.
3. Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. We solder a new one instead. It is better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from a non-working mobile phone charging cord is perfect. I'm sure many of you will find this at home.
4. We check the rest of the conductors. There are 16 wires going to the connector. If there is a break, solder the contact.
5. We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the block in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.

If “experts” have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. It is better to look for a replacement immediately. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly. It may have defects that may show up later.

You can drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of car safety. Take care of yourself and those around you.

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andreynt1 Mar 25, 2010

bought a new block on a bmw from 39 0 269 900 001

Abs is working but anti-bux is not in abs there is an error Variable coding

Dear Guru, tell me how to prescribe it? what programs can do this I have Lunch

Or where can I find step by step instructions?

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Kutuzoff Mar 25, 2010

Usually written with a ballpoint pen. Well, or feather - depending on who is used to what)))))))))

You can encode the block either with native diagnostics (DIS), or with the BMW engineering program. As far as I remember, Lunch can't code.

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deusex Mar 25, 2010

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andreynt1 Mar 25, 2010

There is Karmanskan! he don't know?

where can I see the procedure for coding the ABS block?

There is Karmanskan! he don't know?

where can I see the procedure for coding the ABS block?

Multi-branders - most likely, none can.
All info on BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

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andreynt1 Mar 25, 2010

let your face not be angry

tell me what programs can do this miracle?

All info on BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

Is this information in Russian? And where can I read her name?

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StasAV Mar 25, 2010

let your face not be angry

tell me what programs can do this miracle?

All info on BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

Is this information in Russian? And where can I read her name?

1) “my face” does not know how to be angry.
2) native BMWs - DIS, Progman, NCS.
3) is.
4) “teapot” is not a vice. you will be lazy - so you will remain them

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06 Aug 2010

Hello everyone!
I coded ABS/DSC on a 2001 E39 with NCS.
Took about 15 minutes.

I Coding.
1. Launch the NCS Expert program
2. Select a profile (Load Profile) For example Expertmode?
3. We identify the car (we get the Master code)
a) Press F1 (VIN / ZCS / FA)
b) Next, press F3 (ZCS / FA f. ECU), select the body of the encoded car and take the main code from the available ECU units (for example, from EWS, IKE or KMB)
4. Press F6 (Back), a list of blocks available for encoding appears.
5. Select the block F3 (Choose ECU) that requires coding

1 ABS/ASC/ABD Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake/limited-slip differential
2 ABS. DSC 2 Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake/limited-slip differential
Dynamic Stability Control 2

You need to choose according to your block, most likely you have option 1 ABS / ASC / ABD Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake/limited-slip differential

We see JOBNAME = SG_CODIEREN this means that when you click F2 (Execute job), this is the Run key - the block will be coded (SG_CODIEREN ).

By clicking on F1 (Change job), this is the key for changing the work - it is possible to change the operation that we will perform on the block, for example, it was JOBNAME = SG_CODIEREN selected INFO on the screen began to be displayed JOBNAME = INFO so the block will not be encoded, but the INFO operation will be performed
===================
Those. first we read the main code, and then we encode the block to be installed with it (in your case, ABS / ASC / ABD)
Just do not write off and carefully do everything.
I attached the NCS_Expert_Tools_Coding_Contorl.rar file, in pdf - it clearly shows what needs to be done.

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09 Aug 2010

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SVR Aug 09, 2010

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Aug 10, 2010

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lexa-dok Oct 31, 2010

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mike880 Nov 09, 2010

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Alex07 Nov 09, 2010

With what fright block ABS. 001 antibuks should support? It only supports DSC. And the block is different there and the connector and body kit.

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AVATAR Nov 12, 2010

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Dell Nov 16, 2010

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Kutuzoff Nov 17, 2010

The new block is encoded as written BMW, plus he still asks to do something like commissioning (There is an error in the ABS unit about this), this procedure consists in visually checking the brake pipelines, the amount of brake fluid, the condition of the pads, etc. after which it will confirm that everything is “OK” in the program and this error disappears. With CU blocks, there is no such moment.

Wow - eyes pop out of the yellow head and inspect the car. Guys, otsypte, and then the bust has already gone.

PS We read the test block carefully - everything is very simple.

The story is like this!
Arrived at the end of '11, the ABS and ASC lights were on! Well, I was warned when I was going to take it that the lights were on, but the car passed those in the spring. inspection according to German standards (with an existing problem) ! I drove into the BMW Service, it shows 2 ABS sensors, but everything is working properly, I mean both the ABS and ASC systems (it was personally checked).
Well, of course, since everything works, then he scored on it and went.

And recently, suddenly, the eyes fall on the speedometer, but it does not work and the mileage does not wind up, the consumption on the side does not show, the number of kilometers that can be driven jumps from 70 to 150, the amount of gasoline in the tank when filling 10 l. crosses the line with the number 15.

Work done: I went to BMW Service - again computer diagnostics, but it already shows 3 ABS sensors + removed the tidy (said working). I think it’s okay, I went to buy them, I stop by Mega Auto, there is Roma, I’m ready to buy them, I say three ABS sensors, he’s like that, I say well, as it is, he sent me to Karp, he explained the reason for his arrival and in response I hear a block ABS controls, after he rang it as a tester. Well, and so from the head 7000 soms for repairs without guarantees. Of course, I understand everything that the part is expensive and you can say from the head as much as you like without exceeding 2/3 of the cost of the spare part without knowing whether it is made or not at all and what specifically does not work in it! Then another master charged on the fly without seeing the car 6500 on the same conditions! Came to Leo T. / Young G. staggered, found a master computer engineer who sent me to Akhunbaev / Maldybaev! The approach is already different, which of course I liked, they wrote it down and said at the expense of the price if it is in our power to do it (after checking), then we will calculate solely from the work done, but it will still be visible!

In general, the symptoms were described by someone who can say something about this problem and how to treat it (possible development options and ways to treat them), and of course I will be grateful for a hint about good and conscientious masters!

How do they like to repair the ABS unit in Karp
when I bought the previous car 520 39 body, I just drove by to do diagnostics
so this nerd Andrey immediately sentenced the ABS unit with a repair of 7000 soms
a year later, when the car was being sold, ironically, the buyer wanted to diagnose the car exactly there, when the diagnostics were carried out by the buyer, he asked Andrey the type of ABS unit, how?
Andrew answered in working order.

I don’t know on what basis he fucks car owners

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16 Apr 2012

How do they like to repair the ABS unit in Karp
when I bought the previous car 520 39 body, I just drove by to do diagnostics
so this nerd Andrey immediately sentenced the ABS unit with a repair of 7000 soms
a year later, when the car was being sold, ironically, the buyer wanted to diagnose the car exactly there, when the diagnostics were carried out by the buyer, he asked Andrey the type of ABS unit, how?
Andrew answered in working order.

I don’t know on what basis he fucks car owners

well, don’t tell me, Andryukha is a normal special. in your business. did me abs last year while the flight is normal. took 3,000 soms in his own way, and so he takes 100 dollars
Post has been edited: 16 April 2012 – 15:30

Maybe Andrei is a specialist, but his pricing policy is very surprising! So it turns out that he does not have a specific price or cost of his services, to whom 3000, to whom 4500 = $ 100, and to whom everything is 7000, well, about 3000, okay, it’s clear, but the rest is a sucker! If a person is not such, then such an attitude immediately spoils any further contact, because the person understands that they are trying to breed him! And I didn't like it right away. 7000 is not so much in relation to the cost of a new part, despite the fact that this money was on hand, but here, excuse me, the human factor played and I will turn to such a master who thinks that he is smarter than everyone else!

, I would like to clarify, does it also give you no guarantees? and the second question is how often did these ABS / ASC systems themselves work in a year? He gave me a guarantor for the summer, but it turns out to be very fun, in the summer, of course, if both systems work two times, and it starts to rain and snow, then how will things be in such climatic conditions when these systems work quite often ?!

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17 Apr 2012

Maybe Andrei is a specialist, but his pricing policy is very surprising! So it turns out that he does not have a specific price or cost of his services, to whom 3000, to whom 4500 = $ 100, and to whom everything is 7000, well, about 3000, okay, it’s clear, but the rest is a sucker! If a person is not such, then such an attitude immediately spoils any further contact, because the person understands that they are trying to breed him! And I didn't like it right away.7000 is not so much in relation to the cost of a new part, despite the fact that this money was on hand, but here, excuse me, the human factor played and I will turn to such a master who thinks that he is smarter than everyone else!

, I would like to clarify, does it also give you no guarantees? and the second question is how often did these ABS / ASC systems themselves work in a year? He gave me a guarantor for the summer, but it turns out to be very fun, in the summer, of course, if both systems work two times, and it starts to rain and snow, then how will things be in such climatic conditions when these systems work quite often ?!

you can also do in the style of Andrey
Stem agree that Nurlan will attribute the block as “in his own way” and fix it for 3000 soms

well, all the world, chewing gum and bail
Threat is better of course for 275 to put and forget
they seemed to say that the contacts in the block were normally made for restyling and therefore they are more reliable

Post has been edited by qosmio: 18 April 2012 – 12:39

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18 Apr 2012

Thanks everyone. The anxiety has passed. Just picked up the car. No warning lights come on, everything works fine. The sensors are all in place (shows). The case cost 4000 soms. I have not checked the ASC / ABS system yet, otherwise it will be offended, because it stood for three days. Soldered the block. They said BOSCH are reliable in this regard, it seems. They say they have a problem with aluminum wiring inside the block - it is short-lived. So from here the conclusion is what awaits almost everyone!
, thanks for the response. But I sincerely hope that in the future everything will work properly.
And tell Andrei to let the rate of ODA be better. will do everything. I just happened to be there about a month ago!

P.S. did Akhunbaev-Maldybaev. True, let's look at the expense of their work in practice. The only inconvenience is that they have an appointment about two weeks in advance.
Post has been editedSTEM: 19 April 2012 – 11:18

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Gray71 20 Apr 2012

In general, all the cheese boron went from the fact that when I was told to change three ABS sensors, the above-mentioned Roma from the megaauto store asked in surprise not because there were four of them in BMW, but because three of them had to be changed. four! He said that this is not a part that is subject to constant replacement, i.e. fly not so fast that all three at once, well, or even in turn, but in a short period of time! They are not called by the tester, as the master Andrey from the carp confidently stated, and at the same moment he told me that the sensors themselves were 99.9% working and nothing could happen to them, which in principle turned out to be true, then that in the BMW service they called them - this is complete bullshit (this is not anti-advertising - so take note), according to my inaccurate data, they are quartz and therefore do not ring!

In short, get to the point! The light bulbs have gone out and light up only when they should do it, i.e. when the slip is on, it blinks, notifying that the ASC system is in operation (or when you force it on) and also with ABS, the speedometer works, the mileage is wound, the economizer works, the consumption shows, the remaining kilometers also shows - everything works properly.

In general, as I understand it, they have one grandfather doing this, but one of the guys is called Dima. In general, he recorded me and climbed the sensors into place under the car, but after he himself said, I say I’m not a walker, so it’s better to go to the ones who are groping for mounting sensors, which I did!
I hope everything ends well for you too!

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Gray71 21 Apr 2012

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Cheon 29 Apr 2017

Maybe Andrei is a specialist, but his pricing policy is very surprising! So it turns out that he does not have a specific price or cost of his services, to whom 3000, to whom 4500 = $ 100, and to whom everything is 7000, well, about 3000, okay, it’s clear, but the rest is a sucker! If a person is not such, then such an attitude immediately spoils any further contact, because the person understands that they are trying to breed him! And I didn't like it right away. 7000 is not so much in relation to the cost of a new part, despite the fact that this money was on hand, but here, excuse me, the human factor played and I will turn to such a master who thinks that he is smarter than everyone else!

, I would like to clarify, does it also give you no guarantees? and the second question is how often did these ABS / ASC systems themselves work in a year? He gave me a guarantor for the summer, but it turns out to be very fun, in the summer, of course, if both systems work two times, and it starts to rain and snow, then how will things be in such climatic conditions when these systems work quite often ?!

I do not like specialists who do well for their own and at good prices, but treat the rest as suckers and at cosmic prices. I repaired an abs block in Karp for 5000 soms a couple of years ago, then I was assured that no one except them repairs. Later, other masters smiled sarcastically when they learned the price of repairs, but at the same time refused to get into what others were doing. The renovator was covered for a year, Karp drove in under warranty and they took 500 from me, as they said, for removing and installing the block, but the type of work is free. The whole thing was fixed in 20 minutes (leaving the car for half a day to repair the block is already for show-off, so that it seems like a big fucking repairman, it seems to me). Now the block has started up again, so I’m sitting and thinking - to buy a used one or look for a normal master, because it starts to seem to me that the Karps are doing something special so that you stop by them all the time and set aside a little money.

The traction control system (another name is the traction control system) is designed to prevent slipping of the drive wheels.

Depending on the manufacturer, the traction control system has the following trade names:

• ASR (Automatic Slip Regulation, Acceleration Slip Regulation) on Mercedes, Volkswagen, Audi, etc.;
• ASC (Anti-Slip Control) on BMW cars;
• A-TRAC (Active Traction Control) on Toyota vehicles;
• DSA (Dynamic Safety) on Opel vehicles;
• DTC (Dynamic Traction Control) on BMW vehicles;
• ETC (Electronic Traction Control) on Range Rover vehicles;
• ETS (Electronic Traction System) on Mercedes cars;
• STC (System Traction Control) on Volvo cars;
• TCS (Traction Control System) on Honda cars;
• TRC (Traking Control) on Toyota vehicles.

Despite the variety of names, the design and principle of operation of these traction control systems are in many ways similar, therefore, they are considered using the example of one of the most common systems - the ASR system.

The traction control system is built on the constructive basis of the anti-lock braking system. The ASR system has two functions: electronic differential lock and engine torque control.

To implement traction control functions, the system uses a return pump and additional solenoid valves (switch and high pressure valve) to each of the drive wheels in the ABS hydraulic unit.

The ASR system is controlled by the appropriate software included in the ABS control unit. In its work, the ABS / ASR control unit interacts with the control unit of the engine management system.

The ASR system prevents wheel slip over the entire vehicle speed range:

1. at low speeds (from 0 to 80 km / h), the system provides torque transmission by braking the drive wheels;
2. at speeds above 80 km / h, the forces are regulated by reducing the torque transmitted from the engine.

• angular acceleration of the driving wheels;
• vehicle speed (based on the angular velocity of the non-driven wheels);
• the nature of the movement of the car - rectilinear or curvilinear (based on a comparison of the angular velocities of the non-driving wheels);
• the amount of slippage of the driving wheels (based on the difference in the angular velocities of the driving and non-driving wheels).

Depending on the current performance value, the brake pressure is controlled or the engine torque is controlled.

The abs and traction control lights came on. On diagnostics they said that the sensor is most likely normal, the problem is reading information from the sensor. After a while, the lights went out for some reason and everything worked. But that was only enough for a day. What could be the problem?

07.2000 of release.
ABS unit number top left 0 265 223 001, top right 34.51-6 750 383, two bottom 087/24/1/0003
086/27/1/1390

I don’t want to upset you, but alas, alas, alas ... most likely your ABSDSC block is dying from which you sent me the data.

The fact is that there are abs blocks like your 0 265 223 001 (001 at the end) - these blocks are famous for their dying behavior. There are also blocks with 005 at the end - these are tenacious.

Usually the block is changed and everything passes.
The fact that it is your abs block that is dying is also evidenced by the fact that it started working again and worked only a day.

The fact is that from time to time and constant heating and cooling, these blocks begin to act up.

Try to replace, I'm waiting for your results after the replacement ...

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Yuran
I don't see bolts

How can I remove it, unscrew the tubes and remove it together with the pump?

as an option. then you have to fill the brake fluid and bleed

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Yuran
I don't see bolts

How can I remove it, unscrew the tubes and remove it together with the pump?

Yuran
I don't see bolts

How can I remove it, unscrew the tubes and remove it together with the pump?

as an option. then you have to fill the brake fluid and bleed

look, but it is quite possible that it is without bolts. someone here already had it.

Well, yes, the bolts are not visible in the photo. The top two would be immediately visible. My condolences ((
If the trouble is in the block, remove it together with the pump.

By the way, my front right sensor was junk (or maybe just the dirt on it made it fail) - replacing it helped.
The block was removed / disassembled 3 times - and restored the soldering, and transistors, resistors. checked, checked.
And according to the signs (the ABS went out / lit up, the pump itself buzzed, the pedal beat when they wanted to) sinned on the block.

the same crap, already the second winter went like without abs and ass
all my hands will not reach this block. ))

You just don't have a removable block. for others, it is removed and you can continue to safely ride

Guys

tidy does not work, abs + asc .. who is there in the capital with a soldering iron and loves beer?!

psif you do a test of tidy, then the arrows will move (the question is for those from whom they all died at the failure of the abs block).

Guys

tidy does not work, abs + asc .. who is there in the capital with a soldering iron and loves beer?!

ps if you do a test of tidy, then the arrows will move (the question is for those from whom they all died at the failure of the abs block).

Since the speedometer, odometer and econometer do not plow, then the rear left abs sensor is full

BMW e34 1991 520 M50 automatic transmission - sold
BMW e39 2000 520 M54 manual transmission
BMW e46 2000 318 M43 manual transmission
BMW e36 1993 318 M42 manual transmission

Last edited by beskov on 03/21/2012 07:25 AM, edited 1 time in total.

Go to the diagnostics, reset the errors. then hang out the wheels, connect the scan and turn the wheels and look at the readings of the ABS sensors, it looks like you have some kind of front sensor full

Go to the diagnostics, reset the errors. then hang out the wheels, connect the scan and turn the wheels and look at the readings of the ABS sensors, it looks like you have some kind of front sensor full

Go to the diagnostics, reset the errors. then hang out the wheels, connect the scan and turn the wheels and look at the readings of the ABS sensors, it looks like you have some kind of front sensor full

If I were in Kazan, they would do it for you.

Video surveillance, Internet, Television.
Equipment, Installation, Adjustment.

Malorik

So, I will also tell you about my adventure and the solution to the problem.

Visual issues: The yellow control indicators “ABS” and “Attention” (the middle part of the tidy, an exclamation mark in a circle) began to light up infrequently. Then they started to burn forever.

Symptoms of a malfunctioning ABS unit: Even without connecting diagnostic equipment, problems with the ABS unit can be detected. If the indicators light up and do not go out when the engine is started in cold (or rainy) weather, and then after the engine warms up they go out (when restarting or hard braking), then it is safe to say that the ABS unit is failing. Namely, there is no contact with the pump. Also, when the indicators are on, it is necessary to accelerate to 60-80 km per hour and sharply apply the brake, if the ABS does not work, then very often it is these ill-fated 2 contacts inside the ABS unit that are to blame for this.

ABS block error: Before removing the ABS unit, make sure 100% that it is in these contacts. By connecting with diagnostic equipment, read the errors.

Error #113 should be present:
113 pump unit, valves, wiring harness
Error frequency : 0
Vehicle speed 0.00 km/h
systemactiv 0.00 –
brake lights switch 0.00 -
=====================================================

Repair: This ABS unit costs about 25-27 thousand rubles, be careful in breaking and unraveling. If your hands are shaky from a hangover or you don't have the patience, it's best to leave it in the hands of electricians.

Let's start the repair. The ABS unit is located in the bowels of the engine compartment (to the left, when the car is moving, or to the right if you are standing in front of a car with an open hood).

1. Remove the cabin filter and its housing:

2. We look at the vacuum cleaner and see in depth (directly in front of the vacuum cleaner, the ABS block, mounted on a metal hydraulic block). We need to remove this particular plastic block to which the wires fit. Very carefully disconnect the tube going to the vacuum cleaner (it is secured with a metal clamp). This tube must be disconnected in order to get the protection.

3. Having removed the protection, we see the ABS block. It is attached with 4 bolts to the metal. The bolts are long and have a hexagonal head. To unscrew, you will need a TORX head by 5. The upper bolts can be unscrewed without problems, there is a lot of space, even climb with your feet. But with the lower ones you have to tinker. To unscrew the lower bolts, we need to unscrew the 10 bolt, which is located between the metal brake pipes. Unscrew it completely and take it out. Next, pull and press the entire valve body (together with the ABS block) and insert a screwdriver under it (or something else to fix the position of the entire block). In this case, the lower bolts become available for unscrewing. We insert the TORX head and gently turn the head with pliers, unscrewing the bolts holding the ABS block. If you did it, then the job is half done.

4. Having unscrewed all the bolts, we slowly pull the ABS block away from the valve body. Be careful, because copper “coils” go from the ABS block to the hygroblock, which will interfere a little when removed.

5. And here it is the ABS block in your hands. Disconnect the wiring chip and take it in hand.I put it aside without dropping it. We leave the car alone, without collecting anything back. If you do not plan to repair the unit right away, then we only connect the tube back to the vacuum cleaner and move on by car further.

6. We repair the ABS unit itself. We put the soldering iron to heat and pick up the canvas from the hacksaw for metal. Quietly to a depth of no more than 5-7 mm, cut off the ABS block cover around the perimeter. In places where metal bushings pass through the ABS block (where the fastening bolts pass), you can not cut through. Having cut through everything around the perimeter, we gently pry off the cover with a screwdriver (or a knife) and it creaks and breaks away from the block. The Germans stuck it forever (do not forget about it).

7. We see that there are two large pump contacts on the board, they are opposite the contact tube coming from the back of the block. We take a soldering iron in our hands and quietly solder them, restoring contact. We pick up a multimeter, switch it to the “ringing” mode, and check that the contacts do not “ring” with each other, then we check that the corresponding contacts “ring” with the pins on the back of the tube. If everything is normal, then we breathe a sigh of relief and run to the store for sealant or glue.

8. Sand the cover around the perimeter (or file the junction to a smooth state with a file). We do the same with the perimeter of the plastic case of the ABS block. Degrease and glue the cover to the body. Further, for sealing, you can walk with a soldering iron on the plastic (along the perimeter) and glue everything thoroughly.

9. We put the ABS unit on the car. The order of assembly is identical to the order of disassembly in reverse order.

10. We remove the error and burning indicators. If you do not have diagnostic equipment, then just drive the car and the indicators should turn off. If there is diagnostic equipment, then without starting the internal combustion engine after installing the unit, we simply erase the error and the indicators should go out.