Bmw e39 DIY abs block repair

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Repair of the BMW E39 ABS unit. The most complete information about the ABS blocks of the BMW E39. All ABS E39 blocks on one page. Photo of ABS blocks

The complete set of the BMW E39 car includes a system that unlocks the wheels during emergency braking. This system is included in most new vehicles. The main function of ABS is that in a critical situation it prevents the wheels from completely blocking during hard braking. This system also helps to better control the machine during hard braking. This mainly happens when entering a bend and also on an ice-covered road. The ABS system includes:

• Control block.
• System breakdown lamp. It is located in the passenger compartment on the dashboard.
• Special sensors located on BMW wheels.

An electronic device, which is located in the control device, performs the function of monitoring the appearance of problems in the system itself. In the event of a breakdown, a light comes on on the information panel, and the system itself ceases to function. Driving a car in such a situation is allowed, but with a sharp braking, the car will weigh itself differently. Almost any BMW E39 driver can diagnose and fix problems in the system.

After the vehicle has been factory tested, the ABC system begins. In this case, the lamp in the passenger compartment on the torpedo lights up for 3 seconds. After the elapsed time, the light goes out. If the indicator has not gone out, you should do the following:

1. If the car was moving, it should be stopped and the engine turned off. It should take 3 minutes. Then start the car again.
2. The voltage in the battery should be checked - 10.5 W.
3. It is necessary to check the terminals and power wires.
4. View all wires that go to the wheel sensors.

If the light bulb continues to work, you should contact a BMW service professional for diagnostics. With the help of a special electronic device, information is read from the unit and the point of the problem is determined.

To understand that there is a problem with the E39 ABS unit, you can notice a different behavior of the car:

1. No communication with sensors on wheels.
2. Installing new sensors does not solve this problem.
3. The order of destruction of the block by sensors: left - behind; right - in front; front - left; the back is on the right.
4. The speedometer stops working.
5. Indicators on the instrument panel in the passenger compartment are illuminated to indicate a problem.
6. After warming up the BMW vehicle, the system is automatically deactivated.
7. ABC turns off when driving on uneven road surfaces.

An independent check must begin with the cycle number sensors. The device is bolted to the hub. Therefore, remove the brake disc assembly and other parts. The bolts can be unscrewed with a special hex key, counterclockwise. For better removal, sprinkle the bolts with WD-40 (a special tool - wedge).

After removing the sensor, disconnect the connector located on the upper wing. You should also check the wires for integrity.If a wire is found to be damaged, it must be replaced with a new one; twisting and insulation are not suitable in this case. The wire needs the same length and the same cross-section. Sensor resistance 0.9-1.3 kOhm.

In the BMW E39 until 1999, there were no problems with the anti-lock braking system. But newer car releases have such a weak spot. This is due to an unsuccessful fixation of the control unit. It is located near the power unit. To restore the hydroelectronic unit after 1999, a rosin and tin soldering iron will be required.

The weak point of the control unit is the conductors that connect the connector to the device board. Contact is lost precisely at this point. This is due to constant vibration as well as sudden changes in temperature.

1. Remove the cover from the unit using a large knife or a hacksaw.
2. Carefully remove the protection layer from the edge of the board. You do not need to remove the entire layer. Need access to guides. They are made of aluminum and run from the board to the connector. Use a regular needle to check the contact. The needle should be lightly pricked into the guide wire.
3. With tweezers or tweezers, the conductor is removed without contact. And a new one is put in its place using soldering. The best conductor is copper wire. The same cross-section and alloy wire from the mobile phone charger.
4. There are 16 wires connected to the connector itself. They all need to be checked. If there is no conductivity, the wire changes in the same way.
5. Before installing the cover in its place, you should use a sealant. The block returns to its place in the car. High pressure pipes and sensor contacts are connected to it.

If the ABS unit has already been repaired, then it cannot be repaired again. Purchase a new one from a specialist store. Do not drip this block on the workbenches. Most often it has defects.

It is permitted to operate a BMW with a broken ABS system, but this is the safety of the driver, passengers and others.

The BMW E39 car, like most modern cars, is equipped with an anti-lock system (ABS). Its main task is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency. The anti-lock braking system improves vehicle control when you press the brake pedal sharply, especially when cornering and during ice conditions. The ABS includes the following components: a hydroelectronic control unit, a system malfunction warning lamp located on the dashboard, and sensors on the wheels of the vehicle.

The main task of ABS is to prevent complete blocking of the wheels when braking in an emergency

An electronic device located in the control unit monitors the presence of defects in the system. If there are any, then the malfunction indicator comes on and the system shuts down. In this case, you can drive the car, but when braking, it behaves as if there is no anti-lock braking system. Almost every BMW E39 owner can check and repair the ABS unit, including replacing sensors with their own hands. But there are differences in the models before and after restyling.

BMW E39 in 1999 underwent restyling. The modernization affected not only the body and power units, but also the anti-lock wheel system during braking. In models before restyling, the valve body and the electronic control device are spaced around the car body: the hydraulic part is under the hood, and the electronic unit is in the car's interior (behind the glove compartment).

Since 1999, the manufacturer has combined the two blocks into one and placed it under the hood near the intake manifold. This solution turned out to be not entirely successful, because the electronic device turned out to be sensitive to temperature changes and strong vibrations. It was this design decision that became the main reason for the failure of the ABS system.

The wheel sensors have also been changed.Until 1999, the sensor was attached to the wheel hub with two bolts, and the connector was painted gray. After restyling, the sensor has one ear for attachment, and the chip is painted blue.

After turning the key in the ignition lock, system diagnostics starts. The ABS light is on for about 3 seconds and then should go out. If the indicator remains on for longer or starts to glow while driving, you should perform the following actions:

1. Park the car, turn off the engine. Start the engine after 2-3 minutes.
2. Check the voltage supplied by the battery. It should not be less than 10.5 volts.
3. Make sure that there is good contact between the power wires and the battery terminals.
4. Check the integrity of the wires coming from the wheel sensors.

If the anti-lock braking system lamp continues to burn, then most likely you will have to contact a service station and carry out a full diagnosis there. Using a special device, you can read the error code and use it to determine the direction to eliminate the defect.

The ABS diagnostics should be started by checking the speed sensors. To get to them, you need to remove the wheel, caliper and brake disc. The sensor is attached to the hub with two or one bolts; they can be unscrewed using a hexagon. Treat everything with WD-40 before dismantling.

ABS diagnostics should start with checking the speed sensors

After removing the ABS sensor, disconnect the connector (it is located at the top of the wing). Make sure the wires are intact before checking the sensor. If there is damage, the wires can be replaced. In this case, it is important that the length of the wires remains the same, and the electrical resistance of the sensor does not change. If you do not quite understand what this is about, then it is better to contact an electronics specialist. The working sensor should have a resistance in the range of 0.9-1.3 kΩ.

For BMW E39, before restyling, there are practically no problems with the electronic part of the ABS, but the anti-lock braking system on models from 1999 is more capricious due to the unsuccessful placement of the control unit under the hood near the engine. You can try to reanimate the hydroelectronic unit from a car after 1999 on your own. For this, skills in working with a soldering iron will come in handy.

The sore spot of the electronic control unit is the conductors connecting the connector and the device board. Often, contact is lost precisely in them due to frequent changes in temperature and vibration. How to eliminate this defect, we will consider below.

1. Cut off the cover from the removed block. This can be done with a sharp knife or hacksaw blade.
2. Carefully remove the protective layer from the edge of the board. The entire surface is flooded with it. There is no need to completely remove the layer. You need to get access to the aluminum conductors from the board to the connector. Taking a needle in our hands, carefully check the contact. To do this, it is enough to poke the guide with a needle.
3. Using tweezers, remove the conductor that has no contact. Solder a new one instead. Better to take a thin copper wire. A wire from an idle mobile phone charging cord is perfect. Surely many will find this at home.
4. We check the rest of the conductors. The connector has 16 conductors. If there is a break, re-solder the contact.
5. We install the cover on the sealant. We mount the unit in the car. We connect hydraulic pipes and sensor connectors.

If "experts" have already climbed into the control unit, then it will be almost impossible to repair it. Better to immediately look for a replacement. It is not recommended to buy an ABS unit for disassembly. He may have defects that may appear later.

You can drive without ABS, but remember that the anti-lock braking system is an element of the car's safety. Take care of yourself and others.

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andreynt1 25 Mar 2010

bought a new block for BMW from 39 0 269 900 001

Abs earned and antibuks not in abs there is an error Variable coding

Dear Guru, tell me how to register it? what programs can I do it? Lunch

or where can i see step-by-step instructions?

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Kutuzoff Mar 25, 2010

They are usually prescribed with a ballpoint pen. Well, or feather - depending on who is used to what)))))))))

You can encode the block either with native diagnostics (DIS), or with the BMW engineering program. As far as I remember, Lunch cannot code.

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deusex 25 Mar 2010

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andreynt1 25 Mar 2010

There is a Karmanskan! How do you not know?

Where can I see the procedure? for the encoding of the Abs block?

There is a Karmanskan! How do you not know?

Where can I see the procedure? for the encoding of the Abs block?

Multibrands - most likely, none can.
All infa about BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

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andreynt1 25 Mar 2010

yes your face is not angry

Tell me what programs can make this miracle?

All infa about BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

Is this information in Russian? and where can you read it?

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StasAV 25 Mar 2010

yes your face is not angry

Tell me what programs can make this miracle?

All infa about BMW is in TIS, WDS - just read!

Is this information in Russian? and where can you read it?

1) “my face” does not know how to be angry.
2) native BMW - DIS, Progman, NCS.
3) there is.
4) “kettle” is not a vice. if you are lazy, you will remain so

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Bmwm 06 Aug 2010

Hello everyone!
I coded ABS / DSC on 2001 E39 with NCS.
Took about 15 minutes.

I Coding.
1. Launch the NCS Expert program
2. Select a profile (Load Profil) For example Expertmode?
3. We identify the car (we get the Master code)
a) Press F1 (VIN / ZCS / FA)
b) Next, press F3 (ZCS / FA f. ECU), select the body of the encoded car and take the main code from the available ECUs (for example, from EWS, IKE or KMB)
4. Press F6 (Back), a list of blocks available for encoding appears.
5. Select the block F3 requiring coding (Choose ECU)

1 ABS / ASC / ABD Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake / limited-slip differential
2 ABS. DSC 2 Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake / limited-slip differential
Dynamic Stability Control 2

You need to choose according to your block, most likely you have option 1 ABS / ASC / ABD Anti-lock Braking System
Automatic Stability Control Brake / limited-slip differential

We see JOBNAME = SG_CODIEREN this means that when you press F2 (Execute job), this is the Execute Key - the block will be encoded (SG_CODIEREN).

When you click on F1 (Change job), this is the key for changing the work - it is possible to change the operation that we wake up to perform on the block, for example, it was JOBNAME = SG_CODIEREN selected INFO on the screen began to be displayed JOBNAME = INFO means the block will not be encoded but the INFO operation will be performed
===================
Those. first we read the main code, and then we encode the block to be installed with it (in your case, ABS / ASC / ABD)
Just don't write it off and do everything carefully.
Attached file NCS_Expert_Tools_Coding_Contorl.rar, in pdf - it is clearly shown what needs to be done.

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Bmwm 09 Aug 2010

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SVR 09 Aug 2010

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megars 10 Aug 2010

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lexa-dok 31 oct 2010

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mike880 09 Nov 2010

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Alex07 09 Nov 2010

With what fright the ABS unit. 001 antibuks should support? It only supports DSC. And the block is different there and the connector and the attachment.

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AVATAR Nov 12, 2010

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Dell 16 Nov 2010

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Kutuzoff 17 Nov 2010

The new block is encoded as I wrote Bmwm, plus he also asks to do something like commissioning (for this reason, there is an error in the ABS unit), this procedure consists in a visual check of the brake lines, the amount of brake fluid, the condition of the pads, etc. after which it will confirm that everything is “OK” in the program and this error disappears. There is no such moment with CU blocks.

Wow - eyes pop out of the yellow head and inspect the car. Guys, pour it off, otherwise the brute force has already gone.

PS We read the test block carefully - everything is very simple.

The story is this!
I arrived at the end of 11, the ABS and ASC bulbs were on! Well, I was warned when I was going to take it that the lights were on, but the car passed those in the spring. inspection according to German standards (with an already existing problem)! I drove into BMW Service, it shows 2 ABS sensors, but everything is working properly, I mean the ABS and ASC systems (it was checked personally).
Well, of course, since everything works, then I scored on it and went.

And just recently, suddenly my eyes fall on the speedometer, but it does not work and the mileage does not increase, the flow rate on the bortovik does not show, the number of kilometers that can be traveled jump from 70 to 150, the amount of gasoline in the tank when filling is 10 liters. goes beyond the line with the number 15.

Work done: I went to BMW Service - again computer diagnostics, but it already shows 3 ABS sensors + removed the tidy (skzali working). I think, okay, no problem, I went to buy them, I go to Mega Auto, there is Roma, I go up to buy them, I say three ABS sensors, he, as I say it as it is, directed me to Karp, explained the reason for my arrival there and in response I hear a block ABS control after he rang it out with a tester. And so from the head 7000 soms for repairs without guarantees. Of course, I understand everything that the part is expensive and you can tell from your head as much as you like without exceeding 2/3 of the cost of the spare part without knowing whether it is done or not at all and what specifically does not work in it! Then another master loaded the rally without seeing the 6500 car on the same conditions! Came to Lev T. / Young G. staggered, found a computer master who sent me to Akhunbaev / Maldybaev! The approach is already different, which of course we liked it, we wrote it down and said that if it is in our power to do it (after checking), then we will count solely from the work done, but it will still be visible!

In general, the symptoms were described by someone who can say about this problem and how to treat it (possible development options and methods of their treatment), and of course I will be grateful for a tip about good and conscientious masters!

How they love to repair the ABS block in Karp
when I bought the previous car 520 39 body, I just drove by the car to make a diagnosis
so this smart guy Andrey immediately sentenced the ABS unit to be repaired to 7000 soms
a year later, when the car was selling, ironically, the buyer wanted to diagnose the car exactly there, when the diagnostics was carried out by the buyer, he asked Andrey about the type of ABS block how?
Andrey answered in working order.

I don’t know by what principle he ** happens to be owners of cars

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16 Apr 2012

How they love to repair the ABS block in Karp
when I bought the previous car 520 39 body, I just drove by the car to make a diagnosis
so this smart guy Andrey immediately sentenced the ABS unit to be repaired to 7000 soms
a year later, when the car was selling, ironically, the buyer wanted to diagnose the car exactly there, when the diagnostics was carried out by the buyer, he asked Andrey about the type of ABS block how?
Andrey answered in working order.

I don’t know by what principle he ** happens to be owners of cars

Well, don't tell me, Andryukha is a normal special. in your business. made me an abs last year while the flight is normal. took 3000 som in his own way, and so he takes 100 dollars
Post has been edited: 16 April 2012 - 15:30

Maybe Andrey is a specialist, but his pricing policy is quite surprising! So it turns out that he does not have a specific price or cost of his services, to whom 3000, to whom 4500 = $ 100, and to whom and all 7000, well, it's okay about 3000, and the rest is a sucker! If a person is not such, then such an attitude immediately spoils any further contact, because the person understands that they are trying to dissolve him! And I didn't like it right away. 7000 is not so much in relation to the cost of a new part, despite the fact that this money was on hand, but here, excuse the human factor, and I will turn to such a master who thinks that he is smarter than everyone else!

, I would like to clarify, is he also without guarantees? And the second question are these ABS / ASC systems themselves, how often did they work during the year? He gave me a guarantor for the summer, but it turns out very fun, in the summer, of course, if both systems work a couple of times, and it starts to rain and snow, then how will things be in such climatic conditions when these systems work quite often ?!

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17 Apr 2012

Maybe Andrey is a specialist, but his pricing policy is quite surprising! So it turns out that he does not have a specific price or cost of his services, to whom 3000, to whom 4500 = $ 100, and to whom and all 7000, well, it's okay about 3000, and the rest is a sucker! If a person is not such, then such an attitude immediately spoils any further contact, because the person understands that they are trying to dissolve him! And I didn't like it right away. 7000 is not so much in relation to the cost of a new part, despite the fact that this money was on hand, but here, excuse the human factor, and I will turn to such a master who thinks that he is smarter than everyone else!

, I would like to clarify, is he also without guarantees? And the second question are these ABS / ASC systems themselves, how often did they work during the year? He gave me a guarantor for the summer, but it turns out very fun, in the summer, of course, if both systems work a couple of times, and it starts to rain and snow, then how will things be in such climatic conditions when these systems work quite often ?!

you can also do in the style of Andrey
Stem agree that Nurlan will treat the block as "in his own way" and fix it for 3000 soms

well, all the world, chewing gum and bail
Shl, of course, it's better to put it and forget it for 275
they seemed to say that the restyles had contacts in the block normally made and therefore they are more reliable

Post has been editedqosmio on: 18 April 2012 - 12:39

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18 Apr 2012

Thanks, everyone. The anxiety is gone. I just took the car. No signal lights are on, everything is working properly. The sensors are all in place (shows). The case cost 4,000 soms. I have not tested the ASC / ABS system yet, otherwise I will be offended, I have been standing for three days. We sang the block. They said BOSCH are reliable in this regard, it is like. They say they have a problem with the aluminum wiring inside the block - it is short-lived. So from here the conclusion is what awaits almost everyone!
, thanks for your feedback. But I sincerely hope that in the future everything will work properly.
And tell Andrey, let it be better to rate the def. will do everything. I just visited him about a month ago!

P.S. did Akhunbaev-Maldybaev. True, let's look at their work in practice. Their only inconvenience is to record somewhere two weeks in advance.
Post has been edited STEM: 19 April 2012 - 11:18

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Gray-haired71 20 Apr 2012

In general, all the boron cheese went from the fact that when I was told to change three ABS sensors, the above-mentioned Roma from the megaavto store asked in surprise not because there are four of them in BMW, but because three of them need to be changed four! He said that this is not a part that is subject to constant replacement, i.e. do not fly so fast that all three at once, or even in turn, but in a short period of time! They do not ring with a tester, as master Andrey from the carp confidently stated, and at the same moment he told me that the sensors themselves are 99.9% working and nothing could happen to them, which, in principle, turned out to be true, the fact that the BMW service called them - this is a complete bullshit (this is not anti-advertising - so take note), according to my inaccurate data, they are quartz, therefore, they do not ring out!

In short, get to the point! The lights have gone out and come on only when they should, i.e. when the slip is on, it blinks notifying that the ASC system is in action (or when you forcibly turn it on) and also with ABS, the speedometer works, the mileage is wound, the economizer works, the flow rate is shown, the remaining kilometers also shows - everything is working properly.

Actually, as I understand it, they have one old man doing it, but one of the guys is called Dima. In general, he recorded me and climbed the sensors into place under the car, fastened them, but after that he himself said I’m not talking about the driver, so it’s better to go to the sensors groping around the mount, which I did!
I hope everything will end well for you too!

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Gray-haired71 21 Apr 2012

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Cheon 29 Apr 2017

Maybe Andrey is a specialist, but his pricing policy is quite surprising! So it turns out that he does not have a specific price or cost of his services, to whom 3000, to whom 4500 = $ 100, and to whom and all 7000, well, it's okay about 3000, and the rest is a sucker! If a person is not such, then such an attitude immediately spoils any further contact, because the person understands that they are trying to dissolve him! And I didn't like it right away. 7000 is not so much in relation to the cost of a new part, despite the fact that this money was on hand, but here, excuse the human factor, and I will turn to such a master who thinks that he is smarter than everyone else!

, I would like to clarify, is he also without guarantees? And the second question are these ABS / ASC systems themselves, how often did they work during the year? He gave me a guarantor for the summer, but it turns out very fun, in the summer, of course, if both systems work a couple of times, and it starts to rain and snow, then how will things be in such climatic conditions when these systems work quite often ?!

I do not like specialists who do well for their own people and at good prices, but treat the rest as suckers and at cosmic prices. I repaired an abs block in Karp for 5000 som a couple of years ago, then I was assured that no one except them repairs. Later, other craftsmen smiled sarcastically upon learning the cost of the repair, but at the same time refused to meddle in what others were doing. The repairman covered himself for a year, Karp drove in under warranty and they charged me 500, as they said, for removing and installing the block, and like the work is free. The whole thing was repaired in 20 minutes (leaving the car for half a day to repair the block is already for show-off, so that it seems like a fucking big repairman, it seems to me). Now I started the block again, so I sit and think - buy a used one or look for a normal master, tk. It starts to seem to me that the Karps are doing it as a specialist so that you come to them all the time and set aside a little money.

Traction control system (also known as traction control system) is designed to prevent the drive wheels from slipping.

Depending on the manufacturer, the traction control system has the following trade names:

• ASR (Automatic Slip Regulation, Acceleration Slip Regulation) for Mercedes, Volkswagen, Audi, etc .;
• ASC (Anti-Slip Control) on BMW vehicles;
• A-TRAC (Active Traction Control) on Toyota vehicles;
• DSA (Dynamic Safety) on Opel vehicles;
• DTC (Dynamic Traction Control) on BMW vehicles;
• ETC (Electronic Traction Control) on Range Rover vehicles;
• ETS (Electronic Traction System) on Mercedes vehicles;
• STC (System Traction Control) on Volvo cars;
• TCS (Traction Control System) on Honda vehicles;
• TRC (Traking Control) on Toyota vehicles.

Despite the variety of names, the design and principle of operation of these traction control systems are in many ways similar, therefore, they are considered on the example of one of the most common systems - the ASR system.

The traction control system is built on the constructive basis of the anti-lock braking system. The ASR system has two functions: electronic differential lock and engine torque control.

To implement traction control functions, the system uses a return pump and additional solenoid valves (changeover and high pressure valve) for each of the drive wheels in the ABS hydraulic unit.

The ASR system is controlled by the corresponding software included in the ABS control unit. In its work, the ABS / ASR control unit interacts with the control unit of the engine management system.

The ASR system prevents wheel spin across the entire vehicle speed range:

1. at low speeds (from 0 to 80 km / h), the system provides torque transmission by braking the driving wheels;
2. at speeds above 80 km / h, the forces are regulated by reducing the torque transmitted from the engine.

• angular acceleration of driving wheels;
• vehicle speed (based on the angular velocity of the non-driving wheels);
• the nature of the vehicle's movement - straight or curved (based on a comparison of the angular velocities of non-driving wheels);
• the amount of slippage of the driving wheels (based on the difference in the angular velocities of the driving and non-driving wheels).

Depending on the current performance value, brake pressure control or engine torque control is performed.

The abs and anti-slip bulbs came on. At the diagnostics, they said that the sensor is most likely normal, the problem is in reading information from the sensor. After a while, the lights went out for some reason and everything worked. But this was only enough for a day. What could be the problem?

07.2000 year of release.
ABS unit number top left 0 265 223 001, top right 34.51-6 750 383, two bottom 087/24/1/0003
086/27/1/1390

I don’t want to upset you, but alas, alas ... most likely your ABSDSC unit is dying from which you sent me the data.

The fact is that there are abs blocks like yours 0 265 223 001 (001 at the end) - these blocks are famous for their mortifying behavior. There are also blocks with 005 at the end - these are tenacious.

Usually the block is changed and everything goes away.
The fact that it is your abs block that is dying is also evidenced by the fact that it worked again and worked only for a day.

The fact is that from time to time and constant heating and cooling, these blocks begin to junk.

Try to replace, I expect results from you after replacement ...

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Yuran
I don't see the bolts

How can I remove it, unscrew the tubes and remove it together with the pump?

as an option. then you have to fill in the brake and pump

Dear foromuchane advice where to dig the problem with the ABS. (E46 m54) There was an abs sensor native HZ sko.

Hey! the board on the abs block burned out .. four-wheel drive is difficult.

Hello everyone, there was a vibration from 1000-1500 rpm, I wang an automatic transmission on a bagel, in fact, what kind of offices.

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Hello. Italian replica, wide: front 8j, bridgestone tires 225/35/19 rear 9j.

Who collided ?, bmw e39 crack on the glass at the point of attachment of the rack, the crack comes out of the hole.

Yuran
I don't see the bolts

How can I remove it, unscrew the tubes and remove it together with the pump?

Yuran
I don't see the bolts

How can I remove it, unscrew the tubes and remove it together with the pump?

as an option. then you have to fill in the brake and pump

look, but it is quite possible that it is without bolts. someone already had this here.

Well, yes, there are no bolts in the picture. The top two would be immediately visible. My condolences ((
If the trouble is in the unit, remove it together with the pump.

By the way, my front right sensor was junk (or maybe just dirt on it made it buggy) - replacing it helped.
The block was removed / disassembled 3 times - and the soldering was restored, and transistors, resistors. checked, rechecked.
And according to the signs (the ABS went out / lit up, the pump itself hummed, the pedal beat when they wanted) sinned on the block.

the same crap, already the second winter went like without abs and asts
all my hands will not reach this block. ))

You just have a block that is not removable. from the rest it is removed and you can continue to drive safely

Guys,

tidying does not work, abs + asc .. who is there in the capital with a soldering iron and loves pivasik ?!

ps if you make a test of the tidy, then the arrows will move (a question to those who have all died feast on the failure of the abs unit).

Guys,

tidying does not work, abs + asc .. who is there in the capital with a soldering iron and loves pivasik ?!

ps if you make a test of the tidy, then the arrows will move (a question to those who have all died feast on the failure of the abs unit).

If the speedometer, odometer and econometer do not plow, then the rear left abs sensor is full

1991 BMW e34 520 М50 automatic transmission - sold
BMW e39 2000 520 M54 manual transmission
BMW e46 2000318 M43 manual transmission
BMW e36 1993 318 М42 manual transmission

Last edited by beskov on 03-21 2012 07:25 AM, edited 1 time in total.

Go to diagnostics, reset errors. then hang the wheels, connect the scan and spin the wheels and look at the readings of the ABS sensors, it looks like you have some kind of front sensor

Go to diagnostics, reset errors. then hang the wheels, connect the scan and spin the wheels and look at the readings of the ABS sensors, it looks like you have some kind of front sensor

Go to diagnostics, reset errors. then hang the wheels, connect the scan and spin the wheels and look at the readings of the ABS sensors, it looks like you have some kind of front sensor

I would be in Kazan, they would do it for you.

Video surveillance, Internet, Television.
Equipment, Installation, Adjustment.

Malorik

So, I will also tell you about my adventure and the solution to the problem.

Visual issues: The yellow control indicators “ABS” and “Attention” began to light up infrequently (the middle part of the tidy, an exclamation mark in a circle). Then they started to burn forever.

Symptoms of a malfunctioning ABS unit: Even without connecting diagnostic equipment, it is possible to identify problems with the ABS unit. If the indicators light up and do not go out when the internal combustion engine is started in cold (or rainy) weather, and then after the internal combustion engine warms up, they go out (when restarting or when braking suddenly), then we can say with confidence that the ABS unit is out of order. Namely, there is no contact with the pump. Also, when the indicators are on, it is necessary to accelerate to 60-80 km per hour and sharply press the brake, if the ABS did not work, then very often these ill-fated 2 contacts inside the ABS unit are to blame for this.

ABS unit error: Before removing the ABS unit, make sure 100% that it is these contacts that are involved. By connecting with the diagnostic equipment, read the errors.

Error # 113 must be present:
113 pump unit, valves, wiring harness
Error frequency: 0
Vehicle speed 0.00 km / h
system activ 0.00 -
brake lights switch 0.00 -
=====================================================

Repair: This block of ABS costs about 25-27 thousand rubles, be careful when hacking and rasprovochivayus. If your hands are shaking with a hangover or you don't have enough patience, it is better to leave it in the hands of an electrician.

We start repairing. The ABS unit is located in the bowels of the engine compartment (on the left, when the car is walking or on the right, if you are standing in front of a car with an open hood).

1. Remove the cabin filter and its housing:

2. We look at the vacuum cleaner and see in the depths (directly in front of the vacuum cleaner the ABS unit, fixed on the metal valve body). We need to remove this particular plastic block to which the wires fit. We very carefully disconnect the tube going to the vacuum cleaner (it is fixed with a metal clamp). This tube must be disconnected to access the protection.

3. Having removed the protection, we see the ABS unit. It is attached to the metal with 4 screws. The bolts are long and have a hex head. To unscrew, you will need a TORX head for 5. The upper bolts can be unscrewed without problems, there is a lot of space there, even with your feet. But with the lower ones you have to tinker. To unscrew the lower bolts, we need to unscrew the bolt by 10, which is located between the metal brake pipes. We turn it out completely and take it out. Next, we pull towards ourselves and press the entire valve body (together with the ABS unit) and insert a screwdriver under it (or something else to fix the position of the entire unit). In this case, the lower bolts become available for unscrewing. We insert the TORX head and gently twist the head with the pasatizh, unscrewing the bolts holding the ABS unit. If you've done it, then the job is half done.

4. Having unscrewed all the bolts, we quietly pull the ABS unit away from the valve body. Be careful as there are copper “coils” running from the ABS unit to the flexiblock, which will slightly interfere with removal.

5. And here it is, the ABS unit in your hands. We disconnect the wiring chip and take it in hand. We put it to the side without dropping it. We leave the car alone, collecting nothing back. If you do not plan to repair the unit right away, then we only connect the tube back to the vacuum cleaner and move on to the car further.

6. We repair the ABS unit itself. We put the soldering iron to warm and take the cloth from the hacksaw for metal in our hands. Quietly to a depth of no more than 5-7 mm, cut off the ABS block cover around the perimeter. In places where metal bushings pass through the ABS unit (where the fastening bolts pass), you do not need to saw through.Having cut through everything around the perimeter, we quietly pry the cover with a screwdriver (or knife) and it creaks and breaks away from the block. The Germans stuck it on forever (do not forget about it).

7. We see that there are two large pump contacts on the board, they are opposite the contact tube coming from the back of the block. We take a soldering iron in our hands and quietly solder them, restoring contact. We take a multimeter in our hands, switch it to the “dialing” mode, and check that the contacts do not “ring” among themselves, then we check that the corresponding contacts “ring” with the pins on the back of the tube. If everything is normal, then we breathe a sigh of relief and run to the store for sealant or glue.

8. Sand the lid around the perimeter (or use a file to bring the connection point to a smooth state). We do the same with the perimeter of the plastic case of the ABS block. Degrease and glue the lid to the body. Further, for sealing, you can walk with a soldering iron along the plastic (around the perimeter) and glue everything thoroughly.

9. We put the ABS unit on the car. The assembly order is identical to the reverse order of disassembly.

10. We remove the error and burning indicators. If you do not have diagnostic equipment, then you just need to drive the car and the indicators should go out. If there is diagnostic equipment, then without starting the internal combustion engine after installing the unit, we simply erase the error and the indicators should go out.