Bosch hammer drill 32 DIY repair

Details: bosch hammer drill 32 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The principle of operation of the Bosch 2-26 hammer drill is no different from the famous brands of hammer drills.
The rotating rotor transmits torque to the intermediate shaft of the mechanical unit of the rock drill, while transmitting the translational motion through the rolling bearing to the hammer mechanism of the rock drill and the impact impulse. A rotational moment with a translational shock impulse is transmitted to the working tool. This principle is implemented in all rotary hammers.

But different firms that produce rock drills have their own design features.

Bosch rotary hammers are considered the best in the power tool segment. But nothing is eternal.

If your Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 rotary hammer stops working, then you can restore it yourself. You need to have basic locksmith skills and a little knowledge of electrical engineering.
And another important detail, the design of Bosch rotary hammers is so simple that it does not cause difficulties during repair.

When repairing power tools, including repairing Bosch rotary hammers, strictly follow the safety precautions when working with electrical appliances.

To facilitate the repair of the Bosch rotary hammer, its disassembly and assembly, study the tool assembly diagram:

Drill diagram Bosch 2-26

Any disassembly of the bosch 2-26 perforator begins after inspection, test switching and identifying the causes of the device malfunction.

Video disassembly of the Bosch rotary hammer 2-26

Since the order of disassembly of drills Bosch 2-20; 2-24; 2-26 is almost the same, consider the sequence of disassembly using the example of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer.

Dismantling the Bosch GBH 2-26 dre rotary hammer begins with the disassembly of the quick-release chuck.

Video (click to play).

Two types of chuck are most commonly used in Bosch rock drills: SDS-plus chucks and SDS-max chucks. The difference between them is in the principle of clamping the tail of the working organ.

The device of the Bosch hammer drill chuck differs in the design of the tool landing rods, depending on the SDS-plus or SDS-max model. In addition to the listed types of cartridges, there are SDS-top, SDS-quick cartridges.

The difference between the attachment points of the cartridges

The procedure for disassembling the cartridge of the Bosch 2-26 perforator is simple:

remove the rubber tip, pos. 34;
take out the retaining ring, pos. 87;
remove the steel washer pos. 833;
remove the conical spring, pos. 833;
carefully, so as not to lose it, using a magnet, remove the barrel balls pos. 89.

SDS-plus chuck

Inspect all parts of the cartridge carefully.

Disassembled SDS-plus quick release chuck

SDS-plus chucks have been specially developed for drilling tools. The diameter of the tool shanks is 10 mm, the length of the working tool is in the range of 110 ... 1000 mm. The diameter of the drills is in the range of 4 ... 26 mm.

Putting the puncher on its side, remove the mode switch pos. 832.

First, turn the switch to the “Drilling” position, press the screwdriver all the way into the end face of the switch button (it is red) and turn the switch counterclockwise through an angle of 70º.

While wiggling the switch handle, pull the switch handle out of the housing.

Putting the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer vertically on the handle, unscrew the four screws, pos. 90, holding the housing cover of the mechanical assembly.

Press down on the end of the percussion shaft and remove the cover. Black plastic cover.

Now you need to remove the barrel poz.821 and the intermediate shaft poz.826. They are not fixed by anything.

Then, using a screwdriver, you need to remove the bracket pos. 48 of the rolling bearing pos. 830. By the way, in a simple way it is called "drunken bearing". Sequentially removed: sleeve poz.26 and "drunken bearing".

Got to the drunken bearing

disassembly of the Bosch perforator barrel assembly begins from the side of the cavity, taking out the cylinder pos.26 from it with the drummer pos.27;
the firing pin assembly must be removed from the cavity;
from the side of the chuck shaft, remove the retaining ring, pos. 85, the steel ring, pos. 38, and one more retaining ring, pos. 85;
remove the spur gear, pos. 22.

Impact mechanism assembly, countershaft and drunken bearing

A striker, pos. 27, is inserted inside the cylinder, from which it is necessary to remove the rubber ring, pos. 73. For any disassembly, rubber parts must be replaced without fail.

At the opposite end of the cylinder, a hinge, pos. 29, and two flat washers, pos. 41, are inserted.

The intermediate shaft is disassembled by removing the shaft, pos. 24, and by pulling the "drunk bearing" out of the housing, pos. 77.

Bearings are removed with pullers or manually using a tool.

Bosch rotary hammers are very reliable. But there are malfunctions that practically do not occur in practice. Below is one of them.

If the hammer drill has stopped hammering, but still allows drilling, the most likely cause may be the destruction of the "drunken bearing". This malfunction is not common and it is not easy to find it.

You don't have to go to a repair shop to fix it. Any person who is more or less versed in mechanics will eliminate such a malfunction.

New drunk bearing

First you need to disassemble the Bosch hammer drill to the intermediate shaft. Disassembly procedure is shown above.

Removing the intermediate shaft, you get to the "drunk bearing". Broken cage, scattered balls, cage pieces indicate the destruction of the rolling bearing.

Take out the bearing, remove the dirt, all parts of the destroyed mechanism.

You buy a new "drunken bearing", and after lubricating all the parts with new grease, replace and assemble in the reverse order of the steps for disassembly.

Dismantling the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer, its electrical part, begins by removing the back cover on the handle of the puncher by unscrewing three screws.

The next step is to remove the reverse switch.

Turn it to neutral and lift it towards you. The reverse switch is removed.

To remove the stator cover, it is necessary to hold the mechanical unit in your right hand, and to the left stator housing, pull them in different directions, shaking them.

Separation of the impact unit with rotor and stator

To separate the rotor from the mechanical unit, it is enough to drag these parts in different directions. The rotor is attached to the mechanical assembly by a small helical gear that is inserted into contact with the large helical gear of the mechanical assembly.

The rotor has been released and you can carefully inspect the condition of the collector and bearings.

Rotary hammer bosch

To remove the stator, it is enough to remove the protective plastic protective casing, and knock with a wooden blank or mallet on the end of the housing, into which the stator is inserted. Before doing this, do not forget to unscrew the two screws holding the stator in the housing.

The stator is removed, the rotor is taken out, you can proceed to their inspection and defect detection of all parts that make up the electrical part of the Bosch rotary hammer.

When inspecting the disassembled Bosch 2-26 hammer drill, pay special attention to the condition of the carbon brushes, the bloom on the brush holders and the reliability of their attachment, the integrity of the reverse switch contacts, and the state of the wire at the point of entry into the hammer drill.

The length of the brushes should not be shorter than 8 mm. There should be no traces of sparking and carbon dust from the brushes on the brush holders; there should be no burnouts or damage to the contacts on the contacts of the reverse switch of the Bosch 2-26 perforator.

Electrical part of the Bosch rotary hammer

A hammer drill is a construction tool with which slotting and drilling operations are performed. Thanks to a special mechanism, the hammer drill is very effective and quickly punches a hole in different materials. It can be used in work with concrete, brick, metal, wood, stone. Bosch drills are very common among builders and ordinary people, so it is very important to know how these devices are repaired in the event of a breakdown.

Read also: DIY borehole pump repair

Important pay attention to the original models! There is a fake Bosch Hammer Drill 32 hammer drill. Beware of fakes!

Rotary hammers are of two types:

with horizontal engine installation (the barrel and the engine armature are placed in parallel);
with vertical installation of the engine (the same parts are at right angles).

Electrical and mechanical parts are the main components of this tool.

The electrical part consists of:

engine;
engine control device (sometimes combined with a switch);
on / off switch;
elements that suppress interference;
power cord.

The mechanical composition is as follows:

a gearbox that is attached to the motor shaft;
impact mechanism;
clutch.

This device can be supplied with various additions in the form of a drill, crowns, vacuum cleaner and other parts.

To repair a hammer drill, you first need to properly disassemble it. And we begin to do this by disassembling the cartridge.

Remove the rubber tip and retaining ring;
We remove the washer and the conical spring;
We take out the side balls (preferably with a magnet);
We put the operating mode lever in the position equivalent to the maximum, and remove the switch knob. We fix the position;
Remove the rear cover for the handle and engine brush;
Unscrew 4 screws near the drill to remove the front cover;
We take out the barrel and the shaft, and with the help of a screwdriver - the bracket and the bearing;
Open the back cover and take out the reverse switch;
We remove the rotor, for which we unscrew the crepes and disconnect the terminals from the starter, which also needs to be removed by removing the protective casing.

Important! When disassembling, be extremely careful about where and when you remove certain parts. Fold them up so that you don't lose them in any way. It depends on whether you fold the instrument back or not.

If any parts in the tool are damaged, broken or poorly performing their function, then they just need to be replaced. If the brushes are worn out, then when disassembling them, they are simply replaced with new ones. A hammer drill chuck with a slow rotation of the rim, a worn boot, and failed bearings are also replaced. But there are other faults that you can fix. If there is a breakdown of the winding, then it is necessary to rewind the stator and the armature. It is necessary to monitor the lubrication and lubricate some parts from time to time.

Before you fix something in this model, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the device, the diagram and the principle of operation. The rotor shaft transmits rotation to the barrel shaft through an intermediate shaft, the bearing of which directs the return movement to the impact piston.

When disassembling the barrel shaft in the shock unit, you need to pay special attention to fixing the spur gear. Before removing it, you need to remove the 3 pins on which it is fixed in this model.

In this bosch gbh 2 24 dsr rock drill, the intermediate shaft consists of a shift part, a bearing assembly and a clutch. The latter deteriorates most often, because the teeth in it wear out quickly. The repair of this breakdown consists in correcting the profile of the teeth of the engagement. You will often notice that there is no hit. The hammer drill may gradually stop hammering due to wear of the rubber parts, which must be replaced in time. And if you apply more force than necessary, this can lead to the fact that the firing pin is jammed in the impact piston.

In this model of the tool, the splines sometimes wear out. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the gearbox (it is almost similar to Bosch 2-24, only the bearing is different). It is better to replace the entire barrel, because the strikers wear out along with the splines.

As you can see, the repair of punchers can be done at home with your own hands. At the same time, do not spend large sums on various types of repairs in service centers, which, as we know, are very expensive. But do not forget that you must adhere to the rules of use and safety precautions.

In general, I became interested in what the joke was, first of all I doubted the performance of the product, the dude suggested going to the Auchan store located next to where an outlet was found right at the entrance, the type puncher worked.
At that moment, the Auchan guard appeared and demanded that this booze no longer appear with his puncher here, of course, I asked the guard how often this type comes to check the puncher, the guard somehow reluctantly and carefully told that they come there every day but all the time are different ...Then I asked the booze for a check (by the way, during this time I looked closely at the booze and realized that although he was mowing under an alcoholic, he clearly did not look like him, I saw a lot of drunken creatures talking, maybe they were talking the same way, but they did not have such a clear glance and clear coordination) he gave me a large piece of paper printed on a printer with the seal of the World of Electro Instrument LLC (sales receipt), the pinned cashier's receipt was completely real on thermal paper, BUT after looking closely it turned out that all this crap was written out on a chainsaw. I ran into the asshole, he said that he had confused, immediately took out a check for a puncher and promised if I take a puncher, it will cost 5500 rubles in 20 minutes. will bring gasoline too)))I climbed into the network from the phone and scored the name of the office in Yandex, nothing was found in response, then I scored the name of the craft in Yandex, but nothing was found on it, attempts to quickly find the catalog of the Bosch tool were also unsuccessful. Not knowing if Bosch had such a model, I was not sure that this puncher was shit, but I was sure that it was a scam for one reason, there was a construction market across the road in which the blockheads would gladly rake a normal zero puncher not even in a quarter as this scam suggested but for half of its real price.Then I began to lightly brainwash, saying that the check he had is shit and that they would not accept such a check in my office, and if it was not fake at all, to which he replied that the check was not fake, he picked it up near the accounting department. Then I said that I do not like the seal of the World of Electric Instrument LLC, that it looks like a fake, in response he said that this company is on the Mitinsk market)))

In the end, I told him to drag the saw for me, and when he brought the saw in addition to the hammer drill, I’ll take it all from him at once and take it, the dude began to be indignant and say that first I should take a hammer drill and only then the saw was maliciously sent.At home in the depths of Yandex, we managed to dig up references to this scam and also make sure that BOSCH does not have such a model.So if near a large store they come to you and offer you a hammer drill, a grinder, a gasoline engine or something else that seems to be hidden from the nearest construction site, while presenting a check and all sorts of arguments - you can safely beat the scum in your mug.Rotary hammer BOSCH HAMMER DRILL 32
1) Tell me where you can download the instructions for it
2) Where can you read about hammer drills, in the sense of how to work with them? Image - Bosch hammer drill 32 DIY repair

First of all, congratulations on buying a fake.
Secondly, there are a whole bunch of topics about perfs on the forum. Just type in the search.

Pitbul wrote:
what an interesting thing.

Yes, it definitely resembles a Chinese perf. I saw this one man, he sold it for eight, with a discount they say. When I told him that it was a Chinese forgery, he began to persistently prove to me that it was Germany.

veers wrote:
Yes, it definitely resembles a Chinese perf.

yes it does not remind, but he is. The Gypsies, together with the Chinese, bought the brand))

Marshall wrote:
First of all, congratulations on buying a fake.
Secondly, there are a whole bunch of topics about perfs on the forum. Just type in the search.

HM.

Well, maybe. I will not drive it into production .. Sometimes only at home, I hope it will work

But in general, I wanted to download PDF, so there is a lot for perfs, yes, but I just wanted instructions for this perf

Pitbul wrote:
like this?
” >
what an interesting thing.

Yeah he is the most

And what is it interesting for? Seemingly perf as perf

Truth with a suitcase still

Nothing is eternal.And the most reliable Bosch rock drills start to break down over time. But any malfunction can be repaired by hand if you have a detailed guide on how to carry out repair work. Below we offer you a guide to troubleshooting Bosch rotary hammer drills and how to troubleshoot them.

careless work with the tool;
improper storage of the punch;
heavy loads when working on the working bodies when chiselling or drilling;
overheating of the tool;
long-term work without interruption;
failure to comply with the terms of maintenance.

Conditionally, faults can be divided into mechanical and electrical.

Next, we will consider the faults according to their belonging, dividing them into mechanical and electrical faults.

When mechanical malfunctions appear in the operation of the instrument, an extraneous unpleasant sound appears, sparking increases in the collector area, a burning smell appears, the instrument heats up unnecessarily, its power decreases depending on the duration of work and the effect on the material.

We will consider all the malfunctions on the Bosch 2-26 perforator diagram. Other models, such as Bosch 2-20, 2-24, differ in the design of the intermediate shaft, the installation of various drunken bearings.

The hammer drill does not hammer under load or idle for the following reasons:

the rubber rings of the striker, striker, piston are worn out;
the rolling bearing cage has collapsed;
the cylinder collapsed, the firing pin of the barrel of the percussion mechanism;
cut the splines of the clutch installed on the intermediate shaft;

The main reasons for which a hammer drill hammers, but does not drill, are:

the force of the conical spring that presses the clutch has weakened;
the locking roller does not fix the large gear of the barrel shaft;
does not hold the tool locking mechanism in the barrel;
The hammer drill does not hammer or drill.

The main reasons why the hammer drill does not hammer or drill are:

sheared teeth on the small rotor gear or on the large countershaft gear;
the electric motor of the perforator does not work;
there is no power to the hammer drill motor.

Wear of rubber rings on the striker, striker, piston.

This reason appears gradually, as the rubber rings wear out. At first, the blow weakens, then disappears altogether.

The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the indicated rubber rings with new ones.

For any repair of perforators, its assemblies, all rubber products are subject to replacement.

When the drunk bearing, pos. 830, is destroyed, the rotary movement of the intermediate shaft cannot be converted into the translational movement of the cylinder in the percussion mechanism.

Eliminated by completely replacing the rolling bearing.

There are times when the drummer bites into the cylinder poz.26, which leads to the destruction of the cylinder and the impossibility of creating air pressure in the barrel of the impact mechanism. And the second reason: destruction or breakage of the striker pos. 28, leading to the curvature of the part and the impossibility of transmitting the shock impulse.
Breakdowns are eliminated by complete replacement of the failed parts.

The malfunction is eliminated by repairing the clutch or completely replacing it.
During repairs, worn-out teeth are filed on the clutch. To correct this defect, a round file and a drill are used. The clutch is clamped in the hand, and the tooth profiles are straightened with a drill with an appropriate file. The splines on the intermediate shaft are modified in a similar way.

When the spring pressure (pos. 50) decreases, the clutch slips on the intermediate shaft, without transferring rotation from the small spur gear to the large gear (pos. 22) of the barrel shaft (pos. 821) of the percussion mechanism. By the way, the clutches are arranged differently on different Bosch models.

The large gear wheel, pos. 22, is mounted on the shaft of the barrel, pos. 01, by the roller, pos. 88, pressed against the shoulder of the shaft by a conical spring, pos. 80, and fixed with a retaining ring, pos. 85.

The reason may be a weakening of the force of the conical spring, pos. 80, destruction of the retaining ring, pos. 85, falling out of the fixing roller, pos. 88.

Bosch rotary hammers use two types of chuck: SDS-plus and SDS-max. The difference is in the design of the locking mechanism.

The reason is the wear of the antennae of the raster sleeve of the chuck, which leads to the impossibility of transmitting the shock pulse to the working tool of the perforator.

There is a rotation of the gears with cutting teeth on one of them, more often on a small one.

When the working tool is jammed and the clutch does not work properly, wear or complete destruction of the gear teeth on the perforator shaft and the intermediate shaft occurs.

In this case, the rotor or the large gear of the intermediate shaft is completely changed.

The reasons for a not working electric motor can be:

short circuit in the rotor, stator;
destruction of coal electric brushes;
weakening of the fastening of the brush holders;
burnout of lamellas on the rotor manifold;
breakage of the rotor or stator windings.

The listed malfunctions are eliminated by repair (rewinding the winding manually, replacing the collector and wiring the winding leads) or replacing the rotor, stator, carbon electric brushes with new ones.
The main part of the malfunctions of the electrical part of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer is confirmed by increasing sparking in the collector area.

The length of serviceable electric brushes cannot be less than 8 mm. When replacing one brush, the second should change automatically.

The rotor or stator windings can be rewound independently with your hands at home.

The reason for this malfunction is a break in the wire that supplies power to the electric motor. Most often, a break occurs at the point where the cable enters the puncher. The wire should be replaced with a new one or repaired. The malfunction can be determined with a tester. If there is no tester, the fault can be found using the power phase and a screwdriver with an indicator neon lamp. Connecting the power wires in turn, at the other end, using a neon screwdriver, determine the presence or absence of a phase.

The punch power button does not work. Determined by the short circuit tester.

Most often, a short circuit of the filter capacitor leads to the failure of the punch button. It is best to replace the button with a new one.

Failure of the punch in the electrical part is accompanied by the appearance of a burning smell, strong heating of the tool during operation, the appearance of large sparking in the area of the punch rotor collector, and poor response of the reverse switch.

The operation of the perforator is influenced by the condition of the carbon brushes, the reliability of the attachment of the brush holders and their correct installation.

A burning smell appears when the stator or rotor windings are short-circuited.

A drop in the power of the perforator with increasing load is characteristic when there is a break in the rotor windings or with a short length of carbon brushes.

A short inter-turn circuit in the stator or rotor most often leads to heating of the perforator.

Large sparking in the collector area is caused by interturn closure of the rotor or burnout of the collector lamellas.

Disruption of the reverse switch occurs due to the burning of its contacts.

But the main reason for all breakdowns is the untimely performance of technical maintenance work and the replacement of carbon brushes.

Carbon brushes need to be replaced after 70 hours of use or when worn up to 8 mm in length.

We have given the main reasons for the failure of Bosch rotary hammers.
Perhaps we have not described all the breakdowns of Bosch rotary hammers.

If you know other malfunctions with Bosch rotary hammers 2-20, 2-24, 2-26, share with us.

Video of replacing the raster sleeve in the Bosch chuck 2-26

Video: Replacing the raster bushing (cartridge) with Bosch GBH 2 26 DRE / How to change the cartridge for 2-26Video of replacing the anchor in the Bosch rotary hammer 2-26

Due to the ingress of dust, dirt, moisture, the internal lubricant becomes solid over time and does not fulfill its purpose. The punch starts working.

To tell how to paint the ceiling with acrylic paint, a professional painter can, as they say, "without regaining consciousness." Indeed, technology.

Home renovation is troublesome, especially when it comes to interior decoration, which sets the tone for the entire interior. Having errors can ruin everything.

Hello my father will soon turn fifty years old, I thought for a long time what to give him for such a date and came to the conclusion that a hammer drill would not hurt him, tell me if a worthy bosch hammer drill 32 hammer drill?

Good afternoon, you know the bosch hammer drill 32 hammer drill is the most popular among its colleagues today. I cannot say that he is a super duper, the most ordinary expensive puncher, and its price, as for me, is very high due to its popularity. I wouldn’t pay as much for it as it’s worth. Try another model.

Why did you choose this particular tool? You probably really ...

... BOSH, also semi-professional, is excellent at work. ...

Anyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult its operating conditions are. That is why do-it-yourself punch repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything regarding the repair of this tool.

Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, correct use of the tool will save you from serious damage, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, the device was repaired on time. At the same time, any small failure should already become a cause for concern and preparation for repair.

So, such "beacons" can be:

Unstable work of the punch in the working mode;
The appearance of strange sounds when turning on the punch;
The smell of burning;
The hammer drill does not hammer, although there is no apparent reason for this.

As soon as something like this happens to your equipment, it means it's time to repair. Like any similar work, it requires care, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowledge of how to cope with it. And your very first step in repairing is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything down to the nuances - how, what and why!

Just imagine that your tool suddenly stops working or you urgently need to replace any defective part. The easiest way is to take the hammer drill to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for a while. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because there will be no need to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.Instructions for disassembling the tool:

We start work, starting from the upper unit: first, the rubber tip is removed, then the washer, the spring, the ball finishes working.

After you have removed the ball, we unscrew the screws that hold the case, remove the cover on the handle, if available, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.

We remove the brush holder.

The next step is to separate the gearbox and housing until a gap forms. It is through it that we will retrieve the switch.

After that, the punch body is placed vertically, with the help of a vise, it is fixed, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.

Whatever breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.

Punch operating modes.

The final stage of disassembling the puncher involves vertical fixation of the tool using a vise, then all parts and spare parts are taken out of it.

The tool should be disassembled with utmost care, since it is imperative to remember the locations of the individual parts and the sequence of their removal. You should choose a special place for them, otherwise they can get lost, rolling somewhere, and the hammer will never be repaired.

Even if the hammer drill is in good condition, it still needs to be cleaned periodically for prophylaxis. For this purpose, the device is disassembled, while replacing the worn out parts. The process of disassembling tools from different manufacturers is approximately the same, with the exception of some nuances.

Before disassembling the device, the causes of breakdowns are established, which may also depend on the surface of the device. For example, very often the poor condition of the plastic boot on the cartridge is noted due to its wear.

The reasons for disassembling the punch can be the instability of work, the smell of burning, strange sounds when working with the tool.

This is the reason for the loss of the stoppers. To prevent the problem, it is necessary to use long drills while working with the tool.

The main prerequisites for repairing the device and disassembling it may be the following:

Instability of the tool.
Strange sounds when turning on the device.
The appearance of a burning smell.
In the absence of any apparent reason, the device does not hammer.

When these signs of malfunctions are identified, the question arises of the need to repair the device.

The gearbox with the device body should be carefully spread apart in different directions so that a gap of 30 to 50 mm forms between them. To begin with, you should move the switch to the "impact with drilling" position, only then remove the switch. After that, remove the housing from the gearbox.

The gearbox is an element that transfers rotation to the chuck from the electric motor. This is due to bringing the percussion mechanism into working condition. The gearbox includes a set of gears that have different shapes. It can be cylindrical, worm or conical.

Disassembly of the perforator gearbox: 1 - special ring, 2 - releasing sleeve, 3 - ring, 4 - ball, 5 - spring. Bearing shield from the casing: 22 - closing spring, 29 - ring, 30 - spring, 31 - retainer.

The unit of the device, including the gearbox, has an electronic device that is capable of adjusting the number of revolutions. It also controls the frequency of beats. This element requires periodic inspection, lubrication and replacement of worn parts. Before disassembling the perforator gearbox, the cartridge is disassembled, then the lever that switches the modes should be disconnected. This may require a flat-blade screwdriver.

For example, in order to repair the gearbox armature or its stator, three bolts are unscrewed on the back cover of the tool and the cover is removed. The tool must be disconnected from the power supply before starting work. Be sure to pay attention to the condition of the brushes. At the same time, you need to ring the power button and cable.

If a breakdown is detected after ringing, they proceed to inspect the cable, since it should be checked whether there are kinks in it. In the absence of visual damage, check each cable vein by untwisting it. After penetration into the gearbox, an inspection of such parts and spare parts as:

Phased disassembly and lubrication of the pistol-type perforator.

It is important to pay special attention to the gear teeth. If worn-out elements are found, they are replaced with new components. If they are absent, then they are thoroughly cleaned using white spirit or gasoline.

It should be noted that repairing light drills is not as difficult as more serious equipment, which only professionals understand. When choosing a tool of any class, it is better to purchase a model that has a vacuum cleaner. This device allows you to save time spent on cleaning the instrument. Since the amount of dust will be as low as possible, the use of the tool will be safer.

Another problem is the breakdown of the windings, which is also associated with the appearance of dust. In this case, the instrument is disassembled if thorough cleaning and replacement of all elements that cannot be repaired are required.

For prophylaxis, the device needs to be cleaned every two weeks, soaking it with varnish or grease. The choice of lubricant is made with great care. Basic rules to remember when lubricating:

Types of attachments and extensions for a hammer drill.

You should buy a solution that is produced by the same manufacturer as the perforator itself.
Diesel engine oil can be used if varnish or special oil is not available.
It is necessary to replace the brushes, which are more often subject to wear.

It is necessary to disassemble the perforator to replace the brushes, even if the tool is a rather expensive model. To replace the brushes, the perforator is disassembled according to the principle described above. After that, they find brushes that are worn out, remove them from the structure, put others in place.

It is best to use carbon-carbon brushes, which are the best and not too expensive option. They use graphite brushes, which have a long service life. Coal ones serve for a relatively short time, but they are in contact with other parts of the perforator at a qualitative level.

First, you need to determine the type of punch cartridge installed in the device. Different models are equipped with different chucks, which can be SDS collet chucks, quick-release chucks and jaw chucks. In the presence of a cam chuck, a key is used to fasten the drill, which is not available in collet and quick-release ones.

The order of disassembling the punch: knocking on the head of the screw to loosen, unscrewing the screw with a screwdriver, clamping the chuck in a vice and turning the spindle.

When starting to replace the cartridge, be sure to study the method of fastening the part. Fastening can be done with spindles or screw rods. With a very strong fixation, it is impossible not to use additional equipment.

As an easy replacement method, you can get by with a hammer, screwdriver, or wrench. When disassembling the tool holder, the following types of actions are carried out:

To loosen the fixing of the screw, you need to knock on its head.
It is necessary to unscrew the screw using a screwdriver.
The chuck is clamped in a vice and the spindle is rotated.

To troubleshoot a tool with your own hands, all actions must be carried out in accordance with a certain order:

If no breakdowns are visible during a visual inspection of the perforator, then the next step is to disassemble it.

It is required to remove the switch lever with extreme care, since improper disassembly may be associated with breakage of fragile parts.
The rubber cap is detached, which is sometimes changed to protect the barrel of the instrument.
If you have a collapsible cartridge, proceed as follows:

remove the brushes;
unscrew the screws;
remove the case;
disassemble decaying parts and parts;
make a follow-up inspection;
replace defective elements and their subsequent lubrication.

Often, the tool holder is disassembled for debugging or replacement of parts and spare parts, lubrication or cleaning.

Video (click to play).

Disassembly is carried out based on knowledge of the cartridge design. When a tool is disassembled, the question always arises of how it can be assembled. This is done according to the instructions explaining how to disassemble the device, only in reverse order.