Bosch injection pump bosch ve device and repair do it yourself

In detail: bosch injection pump bosch ve device and do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

High pressure fuel pump ⭐ (Injection pump) - the main structural element of the injection system of a diesel engine, which performs two main functions: the metered supply of fuel to the engine cylinders under pressure and the determination of the correct injection timing. After the advent of battery injection systems, the task of determining the moment of fuel delivery is performed by an electronic injector.

A schematic diagram of a diesel fuel supply system with a single-plunger distribution fuel pump (TNVD) with an end cam drive of the plunger is shown in the figure:

Rice. Schematic diagram of the fuel supply system of a diesel engine with a single-plunger injection pump: 1 - low pressure fuel line; 2 - thrust; 3 - fuel supply pedal; 4 - injection pump; 5 - electromagnetic valve; 6 - high pressure fuel line; 7 - fuel line of the drain line; 8 - nozzle; 9 - glow plug; 10 - fuel filter; 11 - fuel tank; 12 - fuel priming pump (used for long-distance highways; 13 - storage battery; 14 - ignition switch; 15 - control unit for glow plug activation time

The fuel pump delivers a strictly metered amount of fuel under high pressure to the cylinders of the diesel engine at a certain point in time, depending on the load and speed mode, therefore, the characteristics of the engines significantly depend on the operation of the injection pump.

The VE distribution pump diagram is shown in the first figure, and its general view is shown in the next.

The main functional blocks of the VE fuel pump are:

Video (click to play).

low pressure rotary vane fuel pump with bypass control valve
high pressure unit with distributor head and metering sleeve
automatic speed controller with a system of levers and springs
solenoid shut-off valve that cuts off the fuel supply
automatic device (automatic) for changing the fuel injection advance angle

Rice. Fuel pump diagram - Bosch VE: 1 - pump drive shaft; 2 - bypass valve for internal pressure regulation; 3 - fuel feed control lever; 4 - weights of the regulator; 5 - fuel drain jet; 6 - full load adjustment screw; 7 - regulator transmission lever; 8 - solenoid valve for stopping the engine; 9 - plunger 10 - central plug; 11 - discharge valve; 12 - metering sleeve; 13 - cam disk; 14 - automatic fuel injection advance; 15 - roller; 16 - clutch; 17 - low pressure fuel priming pump

Rice. General view of the distribution injection pump VE: a - injection pump; b - high-pressure unit with a distributor head and a metering sleeve. The positions correspond to the positions in the previous figure.

The distributor injection pump VE can also be equipped with various additional devices, for example, fuel correctors or a cold start accelerator, which allow the injection pump to be individually adapted to the characteristics of a given diesel engine.

The drive shaft 1 of the fuel pump is located inside the high-pressure fuel pump housing, the rotor 17 of the low-pressure fuel pump and the gear wheel of the drive shaft of the regulator with weights 4 are installed on the shaft. The injection pump is carried out from the crankshaft of the diesel engine, by gear or belt transmission.In four-stroke engines, the injection pump shaft speed is half of the crankshaft rotation speed, and the distribution injection pump operates in such a way that the translational movement of the plunger is synchronized with the movement of the pistons in the diesel cylinders, and the rotational one ensures the distribution of fuel among the cylinders. The translational movement is provided by a cam washer, and the rotary movement is provided by the fuel pump shaft.

The automatic speed regulator includes centrifugal weights 4, which, through the regulator clutch and the system of levers, act on the metering clutch 12, thus changing the amount of fuel supply depending on the speed and load modes of the diesel engine. The injection pump housing is closed from above with a cover in which the axis of the control lever associated with the accelerator pedal is installed.

The automatic fuel injection advance is a hydraulic device, the operation of which is determined by the fuel pressure in the inner cavity of the high pressure fuel pump, created by a low pressure fuel pump with a control bypass valve 2.

There is no more complex and critical unit in a diesel engine than the fuel injection system, more precisely, its main part - the high-pressure fuel pump. Many mating parts, high-loaded units, the presence of a precision dosing system, make the repair of the injection pump a difficult task even in service conditions. It is all the more difficult to repair the high pressure fuel pump of a diesel engine with your own hands.

In automotive technology, almost everything is repaired, except, perhaps, individual oil seals and cuffs, the repair of which is impossible without special materials. The complexity of setting, diagnosing and repairing the injection pump requires the employee to have skills in working with precision mechanics.

It is simply impossible to adjust according to the factory parameters, without a special diagnostic stand for the repair of the injection pump. During the diagnostic study of the injection pump, it is necessary to check:

cyclic supply of the high-pressure pump, in the entire range of revolutions of the injection pump shaft, at start-up, and after cutting off the fuel supply;
stability of the developed pressure;
uniformity of the injection pump delivery to the fuel injector.

Even having access to a diagnostic stand, and having studied the issue of repairing a high-pressure fuel pump using numerous videos, it is very difficult to qualitatively check and evaluate its work.

In heavy diesel engines, plunger, in-line injection pumps are used. In maintenance and repair, such devices are more difficult, since they require special equipment for its disassembly, therefore we will not consider such high pressure fuel pumps and their repair.

In a passenger diesel engine, a distribution type injection pump is almost always used. Unlike in-line pumps, in a distribution pump, the force is transmitted to the plunger using a profiled cam washer. The design of the injection pump turned out to be more compact, but it is hardly simpler to expect to carry out its repair on the knee.

The most famous and affordable is the Bosh VP44 injection pump. Often, the need to repair the pump internals arises when:

poor traction and incomplete combustion of fuel even under ideal conditions - in the absence of load and a thoroughly warmed up engine;
a sudden failure and stoppage of a diesel engine under load, which is called “death on takeoff”. Usually the scanner in such cases diagnoses the code P1630 and P1651.
the appearance of a diesel fuel leak in the area of the gland seal of the central shaft of the injection pump.

Therefore, we will restrict ourselves to the issue of repairing the injection pump with our own hands by replacing the seals and eliminating the scoring of the working surfaces of the parts.

Before disassembling the pump drive shaft seal, try to move it radially.If play is felt with your hands, it is possible that the reason for the leakage of fuel is the wear of the working surface of the shaft or requires repair of the bearing.

A large number of split planes and mating surfaces of parts required the use of a large number of seals and glands. As a rule, they are made of quality material and last long enough until they are damaged during repair or maintenance. In this case, standard repair kits are used for DIY repair of Bosch injection pumps.

It is quite easy to replace the seal on the shaft position sensor and on the automatic injection timing during repairs. For a better fit, you can drip a few drops of spindle or engine oil onto new rings and rubber bands.

Image - Bosch injection pump bosch ve device and DIY repair

For preventive repair of a Bosch injection pump with your own hands, you will need to disassemble the pump in approximately the following order:

remove the metering valve from the end of the injection pump. To do this, unscrew the four screws of the pressure plate, carefully release the cable of the injection advance valve. By removing the three screws securing the metering valve, you can carefully remove it from the seat;

by unscrewing the fastener on the top cover, you can remove the control board and gain access to the electronics;
we set the position of the shaft, as shown in the photo, remove the camera and get access to the insides of the injection pump;

after dismantling the bearing using a special puller, we get the opportunity to study the potential culprit for the poor performance of the injection pump - the piston of the injection advance unit. There is often surface wear and edge scuffing on the part. You can try to make repairs by polishing the surface, replacing the whole part is much more expensive.

After the repair, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order with the washing of the parts with diesel fuel.

Often, in addition to scoring, on the surface of the pistons there is another reason why the injection pump does not develop the required pressure. This can be due to debris, films or wax build-up on the filter screen inside the pump. There is a mesh on the side of the inlet pipe. Rinsing the channels is a troublesome and ineffective business, it is easier to remove the mesh and blow it with compressed air.

Torn pieces of debris can jam the plunger piston or even break or break the pump drive shaft. Therefore, cleaning should be done very carefully to avoid contamination of the internal cavities of the pump.

Among the many reasons for the failure of the electronic "liver" of the injection pump, the most common is the breakage or burnout of the contacts of the control board and the failure of power transistors. If the knowledge and skills of working with electronic devices allow to carry out a "continuity" of the transistor performance and repair, it is worth trying to identify the cause and replace the culprit with a serviceable element.

To check the condition of the "culprit", you need to carefully open the black cover, which is tightly seated on the rubber seal with screws. It should be removed carefully so as not to damage the seal itself.

The reason for the failure of not only the transistor, but also the entire board could be air trapped in the cavity due to poor performance of the drainage system or the check valve. Often, they try to eliminate the airing by spinning up with a starter, hoping to pump diesel fuel into the high-pressure fuel pump in this way. At this moment, the transistor is open and loaded as much as possible, which leads to intense heating. In an air environment with poor heat dissipation, it will inevitably burn out. In some German cars there is a protection that prevents an attempt to start the engine in the absence of fuel in the highway. For this, a fuel sensor in the tank is used.

Failure of the transistor can be established by "dialing" a tester or by its appearance. The best option for repairing such a malfunction would be to replace the entire control board.Perhaps it is more expensive than soldering, but it will give guaranteed quality and stable operation of the injection pump after repair. As a last resort, give the board and the transistor for soldering to electronics specialists.

When installing and reassembling after repairs, check the tightness of all fasteners.

If during the audit you did not make rash and unreasonable replacements of parts, the assembled pump should work with approximately the same parameters as before. Bosch EPS-815 stand is used as a standard for testing and adjusting injection pump after overhaul.

The video shows how to raise the plunger pressure in a Bosch VE injection pump:

Attention, the editors of the site "Your Road" recommend that you consult with a specialist before applying this instruction to action.

One of the most mysterious parts of a car with a diesel engine is a high-pressure fuel pump (TNVD). There are 2 types of pumps - a mechanical pump and an electronically controlled pump, popularly EFI-shny. Each of the types is divided into 2 subspecies: Multi-plunger in-line, single-plunger distribution type (VE). We will not consider the "exotic" type of pump-injector, Common Rail or VR series distribution pumps (Distribution pump with axial plunger, Distribution rotary injection pump)

Since the device, and therefore the principle of its operation, is a mystery for many, there is an opinion that specialized equipment and a specially trained person are needed to repair it. However, such a "gentleman's" set is not always at hand, so let's try to disassemble and assemble this tricky knot "on the knee". The object for preparation will be a high-pressure fuel pump, assembled in ancient times from several different-sized pumps, without using stands, but at the same time successfully spinning a 4D56 diesel engine WITHOUT TURBINE up to 8000 rpm. Externally, it can differ from the high-pressure fuel pump installed on your car only in the absence of a pressure corrector (a kind of mushroom-hat on the top cover) and some attachments. This does not change the essence of the matter.

So, on the table- OH .. Top view

Colored arrows indicate:

Green - fuel supply bolt
Yellow - "return"
Black - pressure valve in the injection pump housing
Red - the axis of the fuel supply regulator ("gas" drive). The "gas" lever itself has been dismantled for convenience.
Brown - mixture "quality" bolt.

Arrows indicate:

Black - automatic heating
Green - drive of the automatic heating device
Red - automatic ignition timing (injection)
Blue - identification plate

Side view (back side):

Blue - speed sensor (tachometer, not always present)
Red - fuel cut-off valve (muffler)
Yellow - pressure valve.
Green is the plunger itself.
Black - the axis of the fuel lever. The same is available on the back of the pump. It is better to remove (but not completely unscrew) them at the initial stage of disassembly.

For work you will need: a set of heads, a set of hexagons, tweezers, screwdrivers, a gas wrench, a caliper, a vice, a clean rag, a container with clean diesel fuel, a grease (Litol, CV joint, etc.) -))

A mesh filter is installed inside, which, as a rule, cannot be washed. Removal has no “contraindications” (yellow arrow).
Has a calibrated hole on the side surface (red arrow). Different pumps have different sizes, so replacing them with another leads to a change in the internal pressure in the pump.

I think no comments are needed. Council - the drive itself should not be disassembled.

Yellow - speed sensor
Green - "jammer".
Black - centrifugal speed controller.
Blue - fuel drive lever.

Here one difficulty is to get to one of the 3 bolts. There are only two options:

Disassemble the drive (carefully, there is a powerful spring! + REMEMBER the setting of the adjusting bolt), and then calmly unscrew the rest.

Unscrew 2 "light" bolts under the key "by 10", loosen the third, "heavy" one, and pushing the assembly aside, slowly unscrew it.

It should look like this:

Yellow - O-ring
Red- adjusting bolt of the automatic advance switch
Green - the cover of the advancing machine.
Remember (write down) the bolt head protrusion (red arrow) above the cover (green arrow). If in the process you decide to unscrew this bolt, during assembly it will be necessary to return the dimensions to their original state.
Blue - the axis of the speed regulator.
Black - mating plane.

Attention! For pumps with RIGHT rotation, the thread on the shaft will be LEFT and vice versa!

If you can find a tool, unscrew the pressure regulator.

Now the fun begins. Parsing includes nodes consisting of several parts. Moreover, the details cannot "live" without each other. That is, they simply cannot be confused with each other.

Red - pressure valve body
Green - spring returnable
Blue - valve needle
Yellow - valve seat
Black - sealing washer.

The plug under the red arrow does not need to be unscrewed; it serves to install the indicator. The fact is that the ignition on diesels is placed not so much on the marks. Rather, initially, the moment of injection is set according to the indicator, and only then the mark that we see is applied. We will omit this procedure for now, the turn will come to it.

So, turn off the cap (blue arrow). This is where the gas wrench comes in handy. The thread of the plug is right-hand.

Blue - plunger body
Red - plunger.

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the amount by which the plunger sinks into the body. We measure the results, write them down, they will come in handy during assembly.

We release the fastening screws (but not completely), and gently shaking, we move the plunger body up. As soon as it is free, we finally unscrew the screws and remove the plunger body. You should get the following picture:

Blue - plunger
Yellow - dosing ring
Red - washer - bearing
Brown - base plate
Black - spring
Green - adjusting washers.

Black - Plunger Shim
Red - cam washer.
Green - fuel delivery lever. I managed to take it off earlier.

Attention!! We do not remove the videos, we do not change them in places.

Remove the stopper (shown with a screwdriver).

We see a pin under the stopper. Shown also with a screwdriver (it is magnetized, the pin can be easily removed by it).

Remove the cam washer drive.

In the interior of the vacated space, push the axis of the advancing automaton:

For convenience, I deleted 1 video, there is nothing criminal here. Pull the roller ring outward for the axis of the advancing automaton. Caution, do not use unnecessary effort! At the slightest misalignment, the ring wedges in the body. Attempts to pull it out "insolently" will end in disrepair - the pump casing will be scrapped.

It should look something like this:

For the 2 "horns" sticking out in the depths of the pump, we take out the pump shaft with the gear of the regulator:

We return to the "remains" of the pump:

We release the bolts (blue arrows) and take out the booster pump cover (red arrow).

We turn over the pump housing.

We remove the oil seal (shown with a screwdriver). Warning - don't try to save it, it won't work anyway.

As a result, a bare body with a bushing pressed into it should remain. Like this:

2009, spring, during the repair of the car, I thought that it would be nice to do the injection pump too, since I have been sinning on it for a long time. Symptoms are poor starting, cold and gray-blue smoke. In addition, in the summer I drank water in a ford, after that, the car began to drive a little worse, after a while, a rather large lump of dirt pulled out of the fuel filter. The tanks still contain water and dirt.I have not seen the return line, since the hoses are opaque. I decided that I would change the oil seal on the injection pump shaft, and at the same time clean it from the dirt. In addition, one comrade advised me to clean the net, as if he had the same garbage on the same car. Mesh in front of the plunger. If you think about it, and at the same time remember the state of the filter, then I would not be surprised if everything is clogged with dirt.

He took off the injection pump, before starting work, I washed it.

In the photo, to the left of the fuel supply bolt to the injection pump, is the pump bypass valve head, the good news is that there was no dirt under it.

I thought for a long time and decided to completely remove the USR, so I want to eliminate the resistor from the injection pump. On my engine, it doesn't affect anything else.

To get to the mesh, you will need to dismantle the high-pressure section - "cast iron", for this we unscrew 4 screws at the edges.

The photo shows how the injection pump looks like with the cover removed. You can see that there is a brownish bloom on the walls; it lies everywhere in an even layer. I washed off this plaque easily. The feed control shaft is tightly seated, there are no signs of wear, and no fuel oozes out.

View of the valve plunger of the injection timing machine.

In general, I removed the cast iron (high pressure unit). I got to the mesh, blew it out, and then put everything back together.

Plunger (groove edges are very sharp).

"Cast iron" with a cylinder (I don't know what it is called) and a grid.

The mesh is located at the entrance to the plunger pair.

There was not much dirt on the mesh, but just in case I blew it with a compressor.

Another view of the insides.

Finally, I got to this mesh, blew it out, put the cast iron in place. During disassembly, the pump was clamped in a vice by the bracket, the "cast iron" was at the top, I removed the "cast iron", and left the plunger and rollers in place. , after my intervention, the creak of rubber became audible, moreover, it seemed to me that the shaft began to rotate more difficult. I checked everything, like all the details are in their places, they are, as expected. When I changed the oil seal, I did not check the rotation, did not compare with what was before the replacement and which became after the replacement. Instead, I immediately got down to removing the "cast iron" so I did not check it.

As I understand it, nothing could fall out, get enough sleep and get into place crookedly, I could not confuse the slots either, the plunger is not a wavy washer, it can only be put in one position. Well, the creak is most likely from the oil seal. When installing it, I dipped the oil seal in diesel fuel, just in case, and cleaned the shaft. In the photo, the washer under the plunger. It is necessary to change unambiguously. The parameters of the fuel supply depend on it. In this photo it is located on a wavy washer, at the workplace. (It seems to be at work, since I did not disassemble it carefully, it fell out during the removal of the washer, so I don’t remember the initial position. In that sense - the other side or not).

The same washer, only removed and turned over. With an unarmed eye, you can see the development on the working units.

Plunger end. Wear is present.

Plunger. The edges of the grooves are very sharp (like a razor).

I disassembled the pump completely, the insides are scattered in random order.

All parts must be thoroughly rinsed in a clean diesel fuel, as well as blown out with compressed air. Any grain of sand can ruin the whole work.

When repairing, the seals in the pump must be replaced.

I used ready-made repair kits. For convenience, I sorted them into a case. Not everything here. The prepared body is fixed on the assembly stand.

All preparation consists in grinding some working surfaces with sandpaper, its grain size should be from 400 to 1200. Most often I used 800. This is how, after grinding, the working wall of the booster pump, the inner walls and the pump shaft sleeve looks like.

In the photo, the cavity of the plunger of the injection advance corrector, (designated as timer) This is a low pressure pump, in simple terms it can be called: a booster pump.

Its task is to pump fuel from the tank into the body cavity, the fuel is pumped under the correct pressure. The pressure reducing or bypass valve is responsible for this (it is not indicated in the picture). The operation of the timer and the engine directly depends on the pressure (this is a very important parameter).

All parts, except for the gear wheel of the centrifugal regulator drive, if necessary, can be replaced with new ones. Most often, the stator, rotor and petals are changed. Much less often cover and shaft.

The prepared body is rubbed and purged.

In my case, the pump is of right rotation, i.e. rotor, rotates counterclockwise. I think this photo will help you understand how it works. First, the rotor, stator, petals and walls expand, form a cavity, fuel is sucked into it from the inlet channel during formation, then they narrow, thereby ejecting fuel into the supply channel, in which the pressure reducing valve is located.

I hope it is clear, in most cases, for a left-hand rotation pump, you can use a pump from the right, for this you need to turn it over. There are, of course, nuances, but it takes a long time to describe them.

I think you understand what water will do here. The stator enters the housing very tightly, its edges are quite sharp, if you twist and start hammering during installation, the housing will be sent to the trash heap with the stator stuck. Before installing, I lubricated it, and only then put it in place with gentle blows around the perimeter.

We put the cover, it is advisable to lubricate the screw threads. For example, I usually use (Castrol LMX) to lubricate the rotor.

Experience shows that hot diesel fuel does not dissolve it.
FLAG repair kit.

The necessary repair kit can be selected from the catalog, for any pump. By and large, they differ in the diameter of the oil seals.

Work surfaces are polished. I washed the parts, wiped them, blew them with compressed air, and now put them in a clean diesel fuel. Rubber "crackers" that connect the shaft to its toothed part, which drives the centrifugal regulator.

I installed new ones, lubricated them with LMX. At the same time he lubricated the keyway, shaft and washer.

Partly it is necessary to lubricate so that, during installation, the washer and key do not fall out.

We continue to work, carefully you need to combine the groove of the booster pump rotor with the shaft key. Personally, the first time I did not manage to put the shaft in place without difficulties.

The roller carrier is installed from the top. It should also be lubricated on the outer working part. If it is more defective, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the slots under the roller axle, if there is noticeable wear, replacement cannot be avoided. You can put it without any effort and special tools.

It is connected to the cage of rollers by the movable axis of the timer. If you change the in-body pressure, the piston of the automatic injection advance rotates the roller cage, and accordingly it will change the injection angle.

It is also set in the timer:

The working surface of the timer must be polished. A fairly common malfunction is the timer wedge with foreign debris. Symptoms, the engine loses enough power, starts to smoke, knocks and does not gain momentum.

The timer lubricated the LMX and installed it in the case, in this position.

Next, it must be pushed into the body to the middle position.

Turn 90?, Push in the pin connecting it and the roller cage, then fix it with a small pin and a spring clip.

It is advisable to check the smoothness of movement and the absence of jamming. We install new O-rings. I use LMX to lubricate the seals. View of the left (in this case) timer cover. There is a spring and shims underneath.

There is not much to write about them. In short, the spring tension needs to be selected on the stand. I selected the tension according to my own feelings, after installation, the timer operation can be corrected by changing the in-body pressure, you will have to rely on hearing. And this is of course wrong.

The videos themselves.Depending on the condition of the axes, the working surface and backlash, they either change to new ones, or the axis and the working surface are polished and everything is put in place. Chipping, risks, tarnishing marks are not allowed, the assembly is extremely stressed.

Install the rollers in place.

Be careful not to confuse the position of the washer on the roller with which side you put it on. If the videos are mixed, there is nothing to worry about.

Cruciform washer. The exhaust from the shaft is noticeable on it.

We rotate 90 degrees, so that further work takes place in the place where there is no production. You also need to check and, if something happens, put in order the rest of the working surfaces.

We put it in place, the spring is not needed yet.

The injection characteristic depends on the cam profile (see markings in the photo), i.e. from pressure build-up. The work surfaces are tidy. Sometimes the following happens:

The cam disk is in place, the pin under the heel of the plunger is located in the same way as the keyway on the drive shaft of the injection pump.

So far without washers, springs and metering ring. We select washers in thickness under the heel of the plunger size K, a rather important parameter when adjusting the injection pump. The pair is installed, the plug is unscrewed from the pair, the plunger should be at the lowest point of the stroke.

Norm = 3.5 mm in our case.

Next, we begin to install the washers and dispenser on the plunger. Washers must be defective and surfaces prepared appropriately. Remember to pay attention to the position of the washers and the holes in the dispenser.

We proceed to adjusting the second, no less important parameter - Kf. The measurement method is the same, except that a spring is installed, we hold a pair in our hands. I will install it at 5.8mm. The photo shows the flat shims.

Along the way, you need to control that the washers are of the same thickness, and the springs must be even and always of the same length.

Now we fix the pair (without the plunger) in a vise and start screwing the plug, it is advisable to lubricate the threads and thrust surfaces.

Special head for the plug.

Some have tried to do it with gas keys.

Next, you need to check the working surfaces of the discharge valves, check the marking, then do not forget to rinse and blow. We put in the body of a pair:

The stages are visible: a brand new copper washer from a repair kit, a spring, a valve, a fitting. The thread of the nipple must be lubricated, no special effort is needed.

The spring is installed under the cam disc:

We install the plunger pair in the body, it is installed in a horizontal position, it is fixed with screws, it is not necessary to tighten it. We put the springs of the dispenser drive, I put them on grease, because they fall out differently.

The screws that secure the dispenser drive to the housing need to be screwed in; it is advisable to replace the copper washers. I remember that there were some problems with them.

Next, we start installing the dispenser drive.

Care must be taken to get into the recess of the dispenser, and also so that the springs do not fall out and do not warp.

Once in place, the drive axle bolts can be tightened. (there is a special triangular head for this). Next, we proceed to assembling and installing the centrifugal regulator in place, the rubber band on its axis needs to be changed. Do not forget that the screwing depth of the axle is standardized. In practice, you need to align the end of the axle with the plane of its locknut.

In the event that a warming-up machine is installed, here put a unit that, depending on the coolant temperature, will shift the feed control lever, and also, through the hole in the housing, move the roller cage, thereby changing the injection angle (on a cold engine, it changes to an early side).

On the axis of the control lever, we change the rubber ring, again, do not forget to lubricate it.

Install the control lever in place. By that time, the plunger pair is already in place, the screws are carefully tightened, and the fuel cut-off solenoid valve is installed.The seal under it has been replaced; it is advisable to check the valve with operating voltage.

Next, you need to carefully install the oil seal, try not to skew. The working edge must be lubricated, when installing the gland, you need to displace, try not to damage the working edge against the edges of the keyway.

Now, you need to carefully replace the top cover of the pump. Do not forget to check the return pipe for permeability (there is dirt in the pipe in the photo), blow it through, you do not need to tighten the return pipe until the pump is pumped by the manual fuel pump on the filter.

That's all, now you need to install the entire external "kit" on the pump, levers, sensors, feed tubes, brackets, after which it can be installed on the engine.