Details: bosch wff 1201 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
I unscrewed the back panel, measured the resistance of the ten. Tenu is kirdyk. I tried to pull it out, but he didn't pull it out. I read the Internet - they advise you to carefully drag it. But didn't help.
Then I decided to take everything apart.
I removed the frame, motor, electrics, cuvette, but the tank is still not removed.
I read the Internet - it is written to disassemble the entire front face of the car. Dismantled with fear, for plastic. And how then to return the handles back in the program sets - horror.
Dismantled, removed the counterweight, springs and tank. I removed the latches from the tank and separated the lid from it. Dirt is immeasurable. Ten burned down, covered in mud. Washed all stainless steel for 1.5 days. Plastic and rubber cuffs are also from dried powder.
I bought an Italian heater 2 kW 600 rubles and a cuff 300 rubles. Two steel cord bearings from Japan cost me 350 rubles. I also took silicone sealant 100 rubles.
I pressed the bearings into the frame. I assembled the drum, having previously changed the sealing gum on the contrary and filled it with silicone sealant. I inserted ten into the tank and blinded the drum and secured it with clasps. The rest of the sealant stuffed into the joint.
I hung the drum on springs and inserted the axle from the drum into the frame into the bearings. On the advice of specialists, the cuff was lubricated with silicone oil.
Got everything, but there are some shortcomings. One of the 6 fasteners came off the drum. Broke a non-essential screw while screwing to the drum frame. It is held on by 3 powerful screws. I broke one while twisting. I didn’t want to disassemble it - I left it for 2x until the next capital.
The front panel with control knobs is set unambiguously. The control knob can only be uniquely put on the mode and temperature knobs. Here I was lucky.
Video (click to play). |
The first 2 washes did not give water overboard. The car is still not in its place - it is being tested.
Broken screw - in the last photo, the far right on the triangular frame.
Another difficulty was the dressing on the cuff of the screed from the hoop with a spring. They helped me here. One could not.
The repair took 6 days.
1. took it apart to the tank, did not know how to remove it.
2. I searched on the Internet how to remove the tank.
3. bought bearings, ten and cuff
4. washed everything
5. pressed the bearings and assembled everything
6 wore a spring with a tightening ring on the cuff of the car on her face.
From the tool you need 3 torxes, a hammer, a sledgehammer, slotted and Phillips screwdrivers, wrenches with heads for 10 and 13, a fucking wrench to remove bolts smeared with an anti-screw compound, a small flat screwdriver, pliers, pliers with narrow elongated sponges, silicone and universal grease .
And the saying that a soldier must go into battle, even if there is no hope of victory.
Hello everybody!
The machine is 10 years old and worked fine, then the master came, replaced the pump in 2008 for 3500 rubles (I was in the hospital for an operation) and it successfully worked for a year. Then it began to fail, I opened the machine twice, the second time I turned off all the electrics, cleaned the boards and after that it worked normally for 5-6 months. Now, in my opinion, a lot of faults have arisen, or one, but which, as it were, shows that there are a lot of them.
1 After loading the laundry and turning on the CM on red 1,2, 3, it skips these numbers and starts collecting water through the right tray, bypassing the powder in the left tray.
2 After pouring water, she “Thinks” for 30-40 seconds, while the drum rotates clockwise for 1-2 seconds and counterclockwise for 3-5 seconds So she “thinks” for 3-4 minutes, after which the washing process begins without powder and continues to end. Drains, spins, one rinse and finished. Sometimes after rinsing the water drains, sometimes not. Please. tell me the reason. THANKS!
val912, I corrected the topic, but who, except for the master, will be able to figure out your typewriter?
Thanks, but maybe someone had a similar defect, prompt.
val912, maybe someone had a profile fill out
What was dirty? mice cockroaches?
then maybe not cleaned everything.
The boards were clean, but the contacts on some wires were oxidized. The oxide was under the tips and was not visible. After removing the tips with an ordinary rubber band (eraser), I cleaned the contacts on the board and everything went well.
val912So does it work or not?? If not, what and how did you check. give us information, or call the masters.
Good day!
It seems to work, but it's actually buggy. But in order: on Saturday I opened the machine, made an external examination, everything is OK. Below, to the right of the heating element, there is a plastic reservoir, from which a rubber tube goes up and it is, as it were, cloudy. He poured some water by hand and blew back and forth into the tube. The water in the tank became cloudy. I drained the water through the tube coming from the pump, in the drained water there was a lot of husks (scale or slag, I don’t know what to call it). I touched all the contacts and started the machine without linen on the red text for washing. ——She “washed” the laundry twice without problems._______ However, on Sunday, when she started it for a real wash, she began to wash well (she took some water into the right tray, drained the water, took it through the left tray, the powder all went into the machine and the washing began everything went well, but the water didn’t drain and the laundry didn’t wring out, so it turned off with water on the red text. and the laundry did not wring out, added water and began to rinse, but finished washing correctly, drained the water and wringed out the laundry (but not rinsed).
val912, Then check the voltage at the pump at the moment when the drain should be made, and then draw conclusions.
And all? What did you check? Pure observations are probably for astronomers and weather forecasters.
It’s my fault, I probably didn’t realize right away, the reason is that when the command device approaches the right place in the algorithm, I don’t know how to write it correctly, in short, when it should be allowed to drain or spin, the command device skips these places very quickly and transfers the machine to the next operation. So that a voltage is applied to the pump and immediately disappears because the drum of the command apparatus slipped through this place.
Here's another trick is that without linen twice worked clearly and with linen twice lousy. I thought there was a problem with the heating element, I measured it, it was alive and it does not ring on the body.
val912, all your opuses are fairy tales about a white bull, here on the forum there are fortunetellers and psychics, call the master from the ASC and don’t fool yourself or others, you won’t repair your car using the scientific poke method
Many thanks to SHAITAN for the informative advice. If we don’t know ourselves and don’t admit our ignorance, then we give the most “correct” advice - call the master.
val912, sounded good advice from devil.
Well, what about TEN? So we will guess for a long time. Do you need to poke a finger?
I suppose: without powder is normal, with powder is lousy?
Yes, absolutely true. Powder sucks. I'll try to run today on the blue text on the wash. In general, dear professionals, in my opinion there is a floating defect here (it manifests itself differently each time), or maybe I'm wrong. Of course, it is easier to repair when the engine does not rotate not from the first, not from the tenth attempt, but every time everything is different for me. I'm not asking you to show exactly where the fault is, but you can hint. I repeat to facilitate understanding: the command apparatus skips the necessary cycles at high speed, and therefore the operation algorithm is violated
val912, can still turn to the advice in the instructions?
I’m sorry, but I wrote about this at the beginning””””However, on Sunday, when I started it for a real wash, I started washing well (I took some water into the right tray, drained the water, took it through the left tray, the powder went into the machine and the wash began, everything went well, but the water didn’t drain and the laundry didn’t wring out, so it turned off with water on the red text. did not wring out the laundry, added water and began to rinse, but finished washing correctly, drained the water and wrung out the laundry (but not rinsed).
I get a positive result. I don’t understand how the powder negatively affects the algorithm of work and what the instruction has to do with it.
Take it to the workshop and watch it for a long and tedious time. I don't envy that master
val912 I went to meet you, leaving the topic for discussion by other masters, although it was asked to be thrown into the basket from the very beginning. Therefore, you will have to be tolerant of any statements and grateful for any advice.
Hello everybody!
Melior thank you very much! In many ways, you know why, thank you again, but if you had more advice on repairing my vile unit, it would be absolutely great. Here they hint, they can poke their nose, so I wouldn’t refuse, well, I don’t think very well in this matter, sorry. I wrote all this because yesterday I put the washing machine on blue numbers (this is 5,6,7 ,,), so imagine that everything was washed with powder and rinsed and wrung out. After squeezing, she turned the drum back and forth and turned off. There were no claims. BUT ON THE RED NUMBERS IS BUGGY. HELP!
Hello!
Professionals and amateurs, please tell me if glitches in CMA could occur due to temperature switching during washing. Now, analyzing my adventures, I remembered that after washing, I turned off the heat several times while rinsing. On Sunday, I put it on red numbers, on the main washing mode, did not switch anything and the machine finished washing without excesses. The instructions for the machine do not clearly indicate the prohibition of such a procedure as turning off the heating when the power is on. Thanks!
Good day!
I soldered the command device, there were burnt contacts on the first biscuit near the motor, I cleaned all the biscuits, assembled, soldered, put the board in place, connected everything, started the machine, almost the same story, only when switching from WASCHEN to SPULEN KA, the drain began to slip even faster a set of water (fractions of a second for the first time and about 0.5 seconds for the second time) I haven’t figured out the operation algorithm yet, but it looks like the machine wanted to rinse the laundry 2 times. Today I will go to Mitino to buy a pump, I will install it, and I will report the results.
Good afternoon everyone!
Alas, attempts to revive the car with a new pump did not bring success. Everything is old, but there is a benefit. When the machine skipped rinsing and spinning and at the end wrung out the laundry with the powder, I decided to rinse the laundry on the blue numbers and put SPULEN there, but the machine took on water and then the drum somehow lazily turned in one direction and the other with an interval of 2-3 minutes , drained the water, wring out the linen. I didn’t like rinsing and I don’t remember in which mode I got water, but with WATER I PUT ON WASCHEN on red numbers, closer to the line where SPULEN is, so imagine, I drove the laundry like when washing for about 5 minutes, then I reached the line, drained the water, squeezed laundry, took in water, rinsed, drained, wring out, and turned off. That is, everything is fine if you turn it off and put it on the wash again closer to the spin cycle. But didn't check again. I'll check and post everything.
After removal, the pump was checked for transverse play in the bearings. It was, but much less than the two new pumps offered in Mitino at the entrance for 1200 rubles. And in the room I bought exactly the same as at the entrance, without visible external defects for 650 rubles.
By the way, a master with a Bosch 2200 machine had a similar malfunction (read it on the forums) sent a letter to him in a personal.
Thanks to everyone who helps with advice.
in the trash such topics should be read
For fun, the powder can affect the water turbidity sensor
Melior, this topic looks like this: I stroked her and spoke kind words, but she doesn’t want a bitch
val912, since this C / M does not have any indication, the error can be shown in only one way - to interrupt the program and turn the command switch to the OFF position.
Since you described S/M most often behaves when there are problems with pressure switch levels, other reasons are possible.
This machine has a service test that makes troubleshooting easier. And since you are not a master, then there is not much point in suggesting (it will not be tips, but driving by the hand.)
And don’t be especially offended by other participants, because 70% of these advisers have never seen this car in their eyes.
And some, having heard about the test, almost climb into a fight (like this cannot be.).
evil uncle regiss doesn't understand jokes
Good afternoon everyone!
So, the failure to rinse the laundry clearly slips (after washing there is no drain and spin) in the SPULEN mode. The Zmey 125 master had a similar malfunction. He received 9 answers on the forum. Unfortunately, he did not fix the car, because. The owner said that he would be fine anyway.
Regiss Thank you very much for your answer, although according to the connection diagram of the periphery, I would also say that this machine does not have a test mode, there is no error indicator (screen, piezoelectric element). That is, the machine should emit one peak, two, and so on. for various faults. In the factory service manual where the connection diagram and wiring diagram do not indicate the test.
If no one answers, like the Zmey 125 will have to put up with this malfunction. Thank you.
Frequent malfunctions of Bosch WFF 1201 washing machines:
1. Water does not drain, and the laundry is not wrung out.
2. Water is not heated.
3. The drum does not rotate and (or) there is no spin.
4. Water does not enter the machine.
5. Spinning noise and vibration.
6. Leak from the dispenser hopper.
7. Failure of the electronic module.
Call +7 495 374-88-05 or fill out an application and we will send you a master who will fix your Bosch WFF 1201 washing machine.
Video for repairing a Bosch WFF 1201 washing machine if it does not wring out
Help me to understand.
The Bosh WFF-1201 machine has worked for almost 10 years without any problems. And now it's up.
Water fills / drains / heats up but does not want to wash.
When you try to wash - you can hear the silks but the drum does not spin.
Dismantled, twisted the drum manually, nothing rattles / touches, spins effortlessly.
I tried to wash it, when the “silks” went, turned the drum a little and it began to spin
but at the same time, something sparks too strongly at the motor (it looks like brushes. Or their remains)
Does anyone know what brushes should be in there? Marking, etc.
It is not possible to order and wait until they are brought to the service center. (Wait a long time, but you need to wash it every day)
I also noticed that on the board the resistance marked R-53 turned dark and possibly burned out.
Where can I see a description of the circuit resistance ratings, etc.
At least understand R-53 somehow connected with the torsion of the drum or not?
Help with advice, technical info, kind words
Call the master, until the current shied away.
Gimly wrote:
When you try to wash - you can hear the silks but the drum does not spin.
My first thought was a broken belt.
The rest of the text forced us to abandon this assumption. Indeed, it is better to the master.
You can go to the master, but it’s better to immediately go to the store.
The service life of washing machines is 5-7 years. Repair can cost half of the cost of a new washing machine + time to repair.
And so buy a new washer, and either throw out the old one or try to repair it, and then sell it after the repair.
try turning on the motor directly. If it works, then other options are possible. the electronics board can be taken to a workshop somewhere in the market. but there is a possibility that not one element burned out, but along with some processor.
The first is to replace the brushes. Relatives about 2 tr. , order number 154740. Without replacing the brushes, how to check further?
It is cheaper to buy a new car than to change the “native” brushes. brushes can be processed with a file.for sure, their modification is unified and used on many types of motors.
Nicholaj wrote:
You can go to the master, but it’s better to immediately go to the store.
The service life of washing machines is 5-7 years.
What are you doing. on Bosh? My Boshka is already 13 or 14 years old, faithfully, and you are theirs.
Thanks to all. Especially AlexeiGR for “order number 154740”
I will look and change the brushes. I'll let you know the result.
2Gimly
I also think that the brushes should be replaced. If it doesn’t help, most likely it will be easier to change the machine than to repair it, since at such a venerable age one or the other will constantly break down.
The problem was solved by replacing the brushes.
Native brushes from 36mm were shortened to 3-5mm and were no longer pressed by a spring.
Moreover, on one of the brushes, the contact was no longer with coal, but with the metal of the tail
original 154740
I didn't find it, so I bought Bosch ones
and had fun with the installation (cut off the connectors from relatives and attached to the purchased ones)
Taking this opportunity, I completely disassembled the motor, looked at how it works - curiosity
I was very surprised - for 10 years of work there are no traces of development, backlash, etc.
Bearings spin like new.
I cleaned it from the remnants of old brushes, put it back together.
In general, I spent 970 rubles (brushes) and 7 hours of time
4 hours search for brushes + road and 3 for a leisurely assembly and disassembly of the machine.
Actually, this “repair” could be completed by the Master in 5-15 minutes.
But I had an understanding that the car: extremely reliable, maintainable and quite simple.
Message bun » Aug 31, 2009 04:14 PM
Message lockdog » 31 Aug 2009 20:15
Let's start with the opening.
Does anyone know about numbers?
Iceberg did not want to disclose such “secret” information
Message SKORPION » 31 Aug 2009 20:25
Message lockdog » 31 Aug 2009 20:50
Message SKORPION » Aug 31, 2009 20:57
Message lockdog » Aug 31, 2009 21:06
Message lockdog » 31 Aug 2009 21:16
Message SKORPION » Aug 31, 2009 21:21
Message bun » Aug 31, 2009 22:19
Message lockdog » 02 Sep 2009 12:25
Message bun » 03 Sep 2009 10:13
Message lockdog » 03 Sep 2009 13:43
Well, at least by the part number on the heating element, tell me, pliz, because apparently it was broken through and the brains were burned by the trailer.
By the way, I got to them:
And another question, How is this device scientifically called? :
Thanks in advance for your replies.
Message SKORPION » 03 Sep 2009 18:11
Message bun » 03 Sep 2009 21:51
Message lockdog » 05 Sep 2009 11:56
Thanks for the advice
There was a master, he stated the breakdown of the heating element and the death of brains, he said that in their office there is a specialist who can restore 50/50 brains, but you need to take the car to the hospital because the restoration takes place by the method of scientific poke, with a performance check by test on the car.
How realistic is it to find either a used or already restored programmer?
And are there any special “showdowns” on washing machines, such as auto-dismantling?
Sorry if this question is already off topic
Thanks, I'll definitely check it out
Bosch wff 1201 repair manual and description of Bosch wff 1201
Type of installation - built-in, Type of loading - front, Maximum load of linen - 5 kg, Drying - no, Electronic control (intelligent), Color white
Dimensions Bosch wff 1201: (WxDxH) 60x58x85 cm, Built-in height 82 cm, Spin, Spin speed up to 1000 rpm, Spin speed selection - yes, Spin cancellation yes
Programs Bosch wff 1201: Number of programs - 13, Washing program for wool - yes, Special programs for washing delicate fabrics, soaking, prewash Efficiency and energy classes
Energy class B, Washing efficiency class A, Spin efficiency class C
Consumed energy 0.22 kWh/kg
Safety Bosch wff 1201: Protection against water leaks - yes, Imbalance control - yes, Foam level control yes
Other functions and features of Bosch wff 1201: Additional options for choosing the washing temperature
Additional information Bosch wff 1201: Stainless steel tank.
Bosch washing machines, namely the wff 1200/1201 series, are unique not only because they are produced by a company known for its excellent quality. It was these machines that managed to be sales leaders for many years, despite the fact that many manufacturers tried to launch more versatile units on the market.
But Bosch engineers continue to develop models of this popular trend, and very successfully. An excellent solution for this period was the change in the design of the back cover, the electric motor was improved, thanks to a successful solution, it became more convenient to use the handle to select the washing mode.
But despite the ease of use, fans of the wff 1200 and 1201 series still express dissatisfaction due to the fact that the functionality of the machines is a bit weak. This is especially felt if someone used a newer generation of machines.
– only up to 5 kg of laundry can be placed in the washing tub;
– 13 programs have been invested. Today it is considered that this is a small amount;
- there are no various electronic devices inherent in more modern washing machines that facilitate the washing process;
- there is no self-diagnosis process in emergency cases, but automatic shutdown works clearly if an emergency condition occurs.
What an ideal quality a washing machine would not have, but its constant use leads to the fact that parts begin to wear out gradually, systems function worse and worse. But you don't have to part with your favorite household appliances.
In the event of a breakdown repair bosch washing machines should be entrusted to the specialists of our company. Knowing thoroughly the entire design, schemes, the most common breakdowns, professional craftsmen will be able to return the washing machine back to working condition.
In order to gain experience with washing machines of the wff 1200 and 1201 series, the masters underwent special training, first theoretically, and then in practice they were able to put their knowledge into practice, and gained skills in repairing machines, and this is the most important factor when a professional is really needed.
To carry out repair of washing machines boschwff 1201, special training is required as this series is one of the latest releases available with an electromechanical control module. Since 2002, the company has not returned to them since 2002.
To the special specificity that is required when conducting bosch washing machine repair wff 1200 or 1201, refers to the performance of work on the electric motor. To replace the motor brushes, you do not need such a long procedure as disassembling the entire assembly to remove the motor from the tank.
The handle designed to select the washing program often breaks if you turn it counterclockwise. It must be admitted that this design is the weak point of this excellent technique. But the control unit is distinguished in this model by reliability and fails quite rarely.
Masters are often called due to any breakdown of the drain pump or, if required repair of washing machines bosch wff 1201, due to heating element failure.
The repairs that are required for these household appliances are for the most part the same as in other washing machines. Problematic ones include:
- the machine does not turn on at all or the drum does not rotate;
- there is no filling of the tank with water or there was no drain;
- water remains cold at a given mode;
- no spin when the program is installed;
But don't make repair washing machines wff 1200 their hands, because without having the proper skills and not knowing its specific features, the likelihood increases that it will be much more difficult for the called master to repair the car.
Many customers already know that repair washing machines Bosch wff 1200 is the prerogative of a specialized company. Calling the wizard is very simple, you need to contact the dispatcher by phone or use our website.
It is advisable to explain, if possible, at the time of ordering what happened to household appliances. There are certain official error codes to washing machines wff 1200. They were compiled so that it would be possible for the unit to conduct self-diagnosis, and for the master to determine which particular node failed.The system issues an error code, and the master decrypts it and proceeds to repair, having previously prepared those spare parts that will need to be supplied instead of the used ones.
For example, F 01 will tell you that the door does not fit snugly, and therefore the machine will not be able to function.
Error F 02 will tell you that no water is coming in, which may mean that the filter in the hose is hopelessly clogged.
If the client notifies the company dispatcher that an error number "3" has occurred, then the water is not draining, and repair washing machines Bosch wff 1200 on the home you will need to check whether the pipes or hoses for draining the water are heavily clogged, how the pump works and the electronics that control the drain system are in order.
Fully repair washing machines Bosch wff 1200 price depends on the extent of the damage, which parts were replaced. There are prices for each type of work, and the client discusses all questions with the master so that there are no misunderstandings during the calculation.
Contacting our company, customers are convinced that as much as it costs to repair washing machines bosch wff 1201, it is quite acceptable to pay for any family at a price, and in return, the washing machine will again work efficiently and reliably.
Washing machines in modern society are an integral part of home comfort. But, unfortunately, for any equipment, including Bosch WFF 1201 machines, repairs may be urgently needed. Fortunately, now there are many places where the equipment is repaired by qualified specialists.
If the following problems occur with the washing machine, then repair is necessary for the WFF 1201 washing machine:
- The water in the machine does not heat up. Most often, the reason is that the heating element has burned out or the temperature sensor has broken. For the Bosch WFF 1201 washing machine, repairs should be done in a workshop;
- The washing machine knocks out the machine (RCD). Most often, the reason is a short circuit in the wiring, a malfunction in the surge protector or heater. Repair of washing machines Bosch WFF 1201 in Chita should be entrusted to a specialist;
- The machine does not drain water. A common cause is blockages in pipes and filters, a breakdown in pump control is possible;
- The machine does not turn on at all. The most common malfunction is a broken power button. Repair of the Bosch WFF 1201 washing machine will consist in replacing the button with a new one;
- You smell an unpleasant smell of burning. Most often this happens for the following reasons: burnout of the TEN contacts, short circuit. It is possible that water has got on the electric motor or foreign objects on the heating element.
We have listed far from all the breakdowns that are inherent in washing machines. Remember, in case of any malfunction, contact a specialist as soon as possible. Do-it-yourself Bosch WFF 1201 washing machine repair is not the best option. If you do not have special skills, you can only harm the machine or even yourself. And then the repair will end with the purchase of a new one.
Repair of the Bosch WFF 1201 washing machine in Chita is carried out by many companies. Consult with friends, perhaps one of them repaired his washer. Look for companies on the Internet, read reviews. Remember that maintenance of equipment must be professional. As soon as you have chosen a company, immediately call or fill out a form on the site, agree on a date for the repair. And remember that careful attitude to the device and timely contacting specialists will help you not to repair the Bosch WFF 1201 washing machine very often.
Frequent malfunctions of the Bosch WFF 1201 washing machine:
Call a master to repair a washing machine in St. Petersburg:
Our company produces repair of washing machines at home in St. Petersburg. We employ only highly qualified craftsmen.
Call a master to repair a washing machine in St. Petersburg:
A fairly common problem is the chafing of the hatch cuff, water seeps into the hole, and given the tight contact of the internal parts, it reaches the UBL, you will have to change both the cuff and the UBL.It should be understood that the work of the master can stretch for the whole day, because in many washing machines, in order to change the bearing, you will have to disassemble the equipment by screw. In general, the replacement of any part is difficult, since the elements and nodes are located in close quarters, you need to work almost blindly. It should be noted that the cost of work varies from breakdown and time costs of a specialist. Replacing bearings sometimes takes 40 minutes, and sometimes up to 6 hours. The price is determined by the master after a thorough diagnosis. The installed parts are guaranteed within 3-12 months, it applies to parts replaced during the repair, as well as the work performed. In the event of a repeated breakdown of the replaced part, the master will perform the work again - completely free of charge.
The cost of repairing washing machines consists of the cost of labor and the cost of spare parts. Spare parts have different prices for different brands and models, and even for the same brand, the cost may be different. For example: for a Bosch washing machine, a cuff can cost from 1500 rubles. up to 8000 rubles. It all depends on the model and region of production of the washing machine.
To read the instructions, select the file in the list that you want to download, click on the “Download” button and you will be redirected to a page where you will need to enter the code from the image. If the answer is correct, a button for receiving the file will appear in place of the picture.
If there is a “View” button in the field with the file, this means that you can view the instruction online, without having to download it to your computer.
If the material is not complete in your opinion or you need additional information on this device, such as a driver, additional files, such as firmware or firmware, then you can ask the moderators and members of our community who will try to respond promptly to your question.
You can also view the instructions on your Android device
Modern models of machines from Bosch are equipped with a special program that allows you to identify equipment malfunctions without contacting the master. The instruction manual probably tells how to properly perform such a diagnosis. If not, then we offer a detailed algorithm for testing machines, in the case when the drum has stopped rotating:
- Close the hatch door of the machine drum.
- Set the program selection knob to the off position.
- We are waiting for 2-3 seconds.
- Now turn the knob to spin mode.
- We wait until the "Start" button on the control panel of the machine flashes.
- Hold down the "Spin" button.
- We wait until the "Start" button flashes again.
- Turn the knob to the "Drain" mode.
Important! Rotate the knob clockwise. - Release the "Spin" button.
- By the error code of the Bosch machine, we determine the last malfunction.
For your information! If the diagnostics of the washing machine did not start at all, then there is a malfunction in the system board.
In addition, the program provides for the removal of the last error from memory and the launch of diagnostics of faulty elements. To start the engine check, you need to set the mode selector to position 3. When the handle is set to position 4, the drain pump will be checked, and the heating element will be checked in position 5. Positions 6 and 7 are provided for diagnosing hot or cold water inlet valves, in position 8 the testing of the water inlet valve will begin during the main wash, 9 - pre-wash.
The masters of Bosch service centers found that of all the possible breakdowns of washing machines, Bosch machines most often have the following malfunctions:
- Water does not heat up during washing.
- Water does not drain.
- The drum does not rotate.
- Noise inside the drum.
- No water is drawn.
- The engine does not start.
Based on this list, it can be concluded that in washing machines of this company, the heating element most often burns out. If the heating element burned out, and at the same time the electronic system remained intact, then the repair will be carried out quickly and safely. Otherwise, you will have to change expensive electronic modules, giving the technician to the master.
What malfunctions can occur in a washing machine, everything is clear. And what can cause a breakdown, you need to find out. Let's deal with everything in order.
If the machine does not drain the water after a wash cycle, then the reasons for this may be:
- breakdown of the drain pump (pump);
- clogged drain filter or pump;
- contacts between the pump and the power supply are faulty;
- The water level sensor has failed.
In the case of a drum stop, the most important reasons are:
- drive belt wear;
- malfunction of the electronics or control board;
- very rarely in such machines the engine breaks down.
Noise inside the drum can be caused by:
- defective bearings;
- a small object stuck in the drum;
- breakage of shock absorbers;
- detached counterweight.
When water is not drawn into the tank of the washing machine, the following reasons are distinguished:
- lack of running water;
- blockage of the pump or Aqua stop system;
- there was a blockage in the drain hose.
The Bosch washing machine engine may not start due to a broken electronics or an open drum hatch door. Having found out the cause of the breakdown and its severity, you can begin to repair it yourself.
If the breakdown is still not determined, we turn to the master.
Now we will describe in detail what malfunctions can be fixed with our own hands, how to repair the car. Let's start with the simplest - clogged drain filter. It is located at the bottom, under the panel or cover. To rinse it from accumulated debris, you need to open the lid by gently turning it counterclockwise. Don't forget to put a large rag underneath so that the remaining water doesn't spill onto the floor. Rinse the filter under running water and reinstall.
With your own hands, you can eliminate the malfunction associated with the fact that water is not collected. To begin with, we check whether the water supply is turned off and whether the water supply valve is open. Then the drain hose is inspected for creases, and only after that can the Aqua Stop filter be checked. If it is not working, then it is necessary to replace it with a similar one.
If the water level sensor is broken, then it must be replaced. The sensor is located under the top cover in the right corner. To remove the cover, just unscrew the two screws on the back. The sensor itself is pulled out by pressing the latch. Then the hose is removed and the contacts are disconnected. A new one is installed in place of the faulty water level sensor.
How to change the heating element if it breaks? Such a malfunction can also be fixed by hand. Opening the back cover of the washing machine, below, under the tank, you can see Ten. To replace it you need:
- Unscrew the bolt holding the heater on the tank.
- Disconnect all wires.
- We take out the ten.
- We take the correct ten.
- We collect everything in the reverse order.
More difficult is the work of replacing bearings in a Bosch washing machine. After all, you have to almost completely disassemble the washing machine to get to them. In addition, you will need tools and skill.A detailed video has been made about this. All the works in it are made by real masters.
One of the most common reasons for an engine stall may be a worn drive belt. You can replace it yourself with patience and skill. This is done as follows:
- open the back cover;
- we take a photo of the drive belt and its correct fastening on the grooves of the pulley to make it easier to put on a new belt;
- we take the belt with our right hand a little below the pulley and pull it towards ourselves;
- with the left hand, slowly turn the pulley counterclockwise, with this movement the belt will be removed from the pulley easily;
- we take it out of the body of the machine;
- now we take a new belt and first put it on the engine;
- with the left hand we pull it, and with the right hand we try to put the belt on the pulley;
- continuing to tighten the belt, turn the pulley counterclockwise, at the same time trying to put the belt on to the end;
- close the case cover.
Before changing the shock absorbers, carefully inspect the drum of the machine by shining a flashlight inside, it may be that a foreign object is stuck in it, which can be pulled out without disassembling the body of the machine and the tank. Perhaps it is this object that rattles during the rotation of the drum.
As for shock absorbers, they, like in many other washing machines, change according to one algorithm. There is a detailed article on this topic, how to change springs, shock absorbers and dampers.
If the cause of the noise is a counterweight loose on the mount, then these mounts must be tightened. Counterweights are located under the top cover of the case and at the bottom.
If it is not possible to fix the counterweight, then you need to replace it with a similar one. This breakdown is quite rare.
German electric motors for washing machines are a quality standard that breaks very rarely, however, it happens.
There are two ways to solve the problem. The first involves dismantling the engine and transferring it to specialists for overhaul and repair. There is a chance that they will be able to fix this expensive unit. If repair is not possible, then a replacement will have to be made, and in some cases this is almost 1/3 of the cost of the washing machine.
Getting to the engine is easy. You just need to dismantle the back wall of the machine, and then look under the tank, there is an engine with a drive mechanism. To remove it, you need to disconnect the supply wires and the sensor from it, and also unscrew the three fasteners that hold the engine. Before removing the engine, experts recommend checking the sensor capacitor for operability. To do this, arm yourself with a multimeter and connect its probes to the contacts. The value on the instrument panel should be from 20 to 50 ohms.
If you suspect a malfunction of the washing machine control unit, the only thing you can do is either call a specialist who will come and solve the problem, or dismantle the control unit and transfer it to a service center. Experts strongly do not recommend climbing into the electronics of German technology: changing programs, reflashing, connecting to a computer and testing. To do this, you need to know a lot of nuances - entrust this work to professionals.
What happened, why did Bosch washing machines that have proven themselves on the market begin to break down more often, because this is one of the most reliable companies? And all because part of the enterprises from Germany were transferred to Turkey and Russia, where they began to use cheaper parts.
So, for example, a metal tank was replaced with a plastic one, some parts were purchased in China. Cheaper products and led to a decrease in quality.
The German quality standard remains only in those washing machines that are assembled in Germany.
Therefore, when purchasing such a machine, you need to pay attention to where it was going. And if a breakdown occurs, then specialists will be able to repair the Bosch machine without any problems. Although partially, but it's still Bosch.
So, repairing a Bosch automatic machine with your own hands can be overwhelming, in some cases you can’t do without the help of a specialist. However, serious breakdowns in such equipment are quite rare, after all, Bosch washing machines are of high quality. And in each individual case of a malfunction, you need to approach the repair creatively.
Video (click to play). |