From time to time, printer owners encounter malfunctions. Most people themselves have gained personal experience in eliminating minor flaws in such an apparatus. As practice shows, a frequent reason for the unwillingness of the printer to work can be a software failure or a minor mechanical failure that can be fixed on your own, without seeking help from a specialist.
Consider the probable causes of malfunctions and ways to eliminate them yourself, without resorting to the help of another person.
The device of printers such as HP, Canon, Epson, Samsung, Sharp, Ricoh is fundamentally the same. Therefore, consider several reasons that are found on all printing devices:
Important! In no case should you use detergents and alcohol-containing liquids.
In addition to all of the above, listen to the operation of your device. Are there any extraneous noises coming from it? If you hear them, this may be a signal that the gears that drive the printing mechanism have failed. In most cases, they are made of plastic.
Below we will consider how to repair using the HP LaserJet 1100 printer as an example. This instruction will also be useful for repairing a Canon, Samsung and Epson printer.
Suppose that during printing with a paper clip that was on a sheet, the thermal film was damaged. For repairs, you will need a small set of tools:
VIDEO
Important! During such work, each operation must be performed very carefully, since the printer is mostly made of plastic and any latch or part may break. Of course, after assembly, there should be no extra parts left.
Brother inkjet printer arrived for repair yesterday. Preliminary inspection revealed a printhead blocking problem in the parking area.
The printer tried to “bring out” the print head, but something interfered with the movement, characteristic clicks of the protective clutch were heard.
An attempt at surgical intervention did not give results and it was decided to leave the printer for repair, to find and fix the problem.
Access to the print head of the Brother MFP is very difficult, so it was decided to disassemble the printer and inspect it from the inside. It took about 7 minutes to disassemble, since there was already experience in disassembling this model.
Speaking of the printer model. Pretty "fresh" device - Brother MFC-J5910.Moreover, several dozens of them passed through our store alone, and so far this is the first warranty case.
According to the client, the printer "blocked" at the moment of the next inclusion, which indicated a problem in the parking unit of the printing device. Started the inspection from this site.
This platform is functional in nature, switching the drive gear to three positions: connecting the pump for pumping ink when cleaning the print head, connecting the head lock in parking mode and connecting the paper feed unit.
The reason for blocking was immediately clear. Since the fragments of plastic and plastic shock absorber were inside the case, I quickly prepared them for mounting and glued them. Considering that this platform receives periodic loads, at the moment of “hit” on the plastic gear shift lever, it was decided to strengthen the glue line. I used a sealant for outdoor work, I think epoxy would also work.
I connect the front control unit and check the operation of the printer without assembly. The printer started up perfectly. The problem has been fixed.
When assembling the printer, I caught myself thinking that this was the result of physical impact. It is very hard to believe in a factory marriage. But since the printer was under warranty and the problem was easily fixed, I did not go into details and filed the repair as a warranty case.
I took photos after the repair, the thought just crept in, what if this is a “weak point” of this model. Therefore, just in case, I published an entry on this problem and its elimination.
P.S. the story of this printer continues. Today, the client, having learned about the positive result of the repair, asked to transfer the printer to sublimation ink. I leave it for another day to wash out the remnants of dropsy and pigment and fill it with ink to print images for photo souvenirs.
The washing process is simple, but I will try to film the process and make a small reviewer in the very near future.
At the end of today's review, I want to touch on the topic LED lighting for home and office. LED lamps allow you to get huge savings on electricity consumption. At the moment lamps of all types are available, both for indoor and outdoor installation. See the full range and place an order here.
The Secret of the Master shares his successful experience in repairing the HP LaserJet 1010 laser printer. The instruction is suitable for HP LJ printers of the 1000 - 1200 series. The story is simple, the printer bought used (for 1000 rubles) worked for a year and was stupidly damaged by a sheet with a paper clip, streaked and began to rustle - it broke thermal film. Thermal film damage is easily confirmed by installing a replacement cartridge. Contacting the service center meant paying for repairs at least at a price comparable to buying a new printer. The search for thermal film for the printer was also incited, the sellers offered to buy thermal film at an unrealistic price of up to 1,500 rubles (it’s a red price
100 rubles), plus the tricks of sellers in the absence of thermal grease in the repair kit and the sale of this component for repair, also at an exorbitant price.
The thermal film was searched for for a month and was bought for 300 rubles (2013) complete with thermal grease. For repair, a simple tool is required:
The repair scheme is carried out step by step in the following order.
Step: 1 Check the integrity of the film and the presence of thermal grease. Pull the cartridge out of the printer. Disconnect the power cord.
Step 1. Unplug the power cord
Step 1. Remove the cartridge from the printer
Step: 2 The cartridge access cover is held by the stem. The stem must be separated from the cover by pressing on the inner edge of the plastic rivet. Hold the rivet while detaching.
Step: 3 Turn the back of the printer towards you, and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws from the metal cover, two screws on the left and one screw on the right. See photo.
Step 3. Unscrew the screw on the left
Step 3. Unscrew the screws on the right
Step: 4 Remove the side walls of the printer. The stacks are held in place by plastic latches on the top, bottom, and back. The lid without buttons is the strongest. Secret latches are shown in the photo.
Step 4. Wall latches with buttons
Step 4. Wall latches without buttons
Step: 5 Lift the cartridge access door and remove the two mounting screws. Remove the cover.
Step: 6 Use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the lower right edge of the metal back cover and remove it.
Step 6Pry off the cover with a screwdriver
Step: 7 The power board is on the side of the power connector. There are four different connectors on the top of the board, unplug them. The connector with white thick wires will be disconnected only after pressing the latch, see photo. It is also necessary to disconnect the red wire on the back wall. Just pull it up. Remember how it is attached preloaded by a spring. Remove the wires from the organizers.
Step 7: Power board connectors
Step 7: Fourth Connector Retainer
Step 7 Attach the Red Wire
Step 7 Red Wire Connector
Step 7. Wires are released
Step: 8 So we got to the stove. The stove is fixed with three screws. See photo. Unscrew the screws. Hold the screws while loosening.
Step 8. The first screw for fixing the stove
Step 8. The second screw for fixing the stove
Step 8. The third screw for fixing the stove
Step: 9 We take the stove by the right edge and pull it out.
Step: 10 Unscrew the two screws securing the top cover of the stove. Remove the cover by pulling it to the side.
Step 10. The first cover screw
Step 10 Second Cover Screw
Step 10 Remove the oven lid
Step: 11 Now we see the destruction of the thermal film. We remember the position of the straps with springs and levers! Springs are located on the sides of the stove; we unhook the springs from below with long nose pliers. We remove the metal strips and clamping plastic levers from each side. Do not mix them up when assembling!
Step 11 Lever Mount Spring
Step 11 Remove each spring
Step: 12 Release the white wires from the clips and remove the thermal film drum. It just goes up.
Step 12. Remove the thermal drum
Step 12. Thermal Drum Removed
Step: 13 We remove the plastic tip with our own hands from the side where thin wires come out of the drum. The cap is held on by clips.
Step: 14 Remove the damaged thermal film and wipe the metal surface and the thermoelement from old grease and dirt with a damp cloth.
Step 14. Remove the thermal film
Step: 15 Apply new thermal grease to the surface of the stove. Carefully install the thermal film. The end of the cylinder must be fixed on the opposite plastic tip. also carefully install the right tip. It is useful to remove the protruding thermal grease.
Step 15: Apply Thermal Grease
Step 15. Put on the thermal film
Step 15: Remove Excess Thermal Grease
Step: 16 Assemble the stove in reverse order. The correct position of the slats in the photo.
Step 16 Lid Installed
Step: 17 We put the stove in place and fasten it with three screws. We fill and connect all the wires to the connectors. Correctly install the red wire.
Step: 18 Install the back and top covers. We raise the plastic flags of the stove during installation. so that they fall into the corresponding grooves in the cover.
Step 19 Printing a Test Page
Step: 19 After assembling the printer, we check the absence of unnecessary parts. We connect the network cord. We turn on the printer. First, we give the command to pull without paper, and then we print a test page, holding the green button a little longer. The first few pages may show smear marks around the edges. The work was done slowly within an hour. The savings from such work will correspond to a salary of more than 100,000 rubles per month.
Repair such breakdowns yourself!
Himself changed dozens of thermal films for hp-I testify-it is written correctly.
And how to deceive a xerox 3140 laser printer, I have a problem, I bought a cartridge for it, the ink ran out, I started pouring new powder and then it says that supposedly there is no cartridge and it stopped printing, the red diode is on and that's it / How can you tell me to deceive him?
Hello everyone! After my previous post about printer repair, I still have +10 subscribers) Although I don’t pretend to be such respected pick-ups as qepka and 80cats (I’m far from them and their work profile is different), I’m very pleased for your support. In this post I want to tell and show about the repair of some printers that have been in our SC
Xerox WC3220, the problem is that after turning it on it does not go into readiness, a message appears something like “system error: off / on. a printer". I also thought that everything was simple. the same printers were already brought with the same error, the result was that the heating lamp burned out. I noticed that recently they began to often bring Sam / Xer printers with a burned-out lamp, it seems to be clear: it often turns on and off during operation (it just didn’t happen before, and devices are about the same year of production ¯_(ツ)_/¯ ) During the repair process, it turned out that the lamp and fuses were intact, and the reason was not a contact in the socket for connecting the thermal unit:
It looks like the face of a robot with square eyes) The “teeth” of the robot are the contacts of the temperature sensor, the “eyes” are the contacts of the lamp. Two pins were just a little covered with oxides, I was too lazy to clean them and I put the whole nest from another disassembled thermal unit.
Next, the Canon LBP3110 printer, the problem is crackling during printing, jams. And here is a typical problem - the wear of the drive gear of the thermal unit:
The photo shows another printer, it seems Canon MF5730, exactly the same gear in HP 1000/1200/1300 printers and many others
Instead of teeth, the gear had thin plates; naturally, there is no normal hook with the gear of the rubber shaft of the thermal unit. I think there are several reasons for such wear: different material of the gears, weak pressure between the gears, wear of the thermal unit, and the manufacturer himself is not interested in the units to serve for a long time
Printer Kyocera ES 1370N. The client's complaint that the sheet comes out of the printer by about 2-3 cm and stops. This happens after about 5-15 sheets.
I found that the Teflon shaft was worn straight to the metal from one edge, but after replacing it, the malfunction remained. Having crawled through the forums on this problem, I realized that either the optocoupler for the passage of paper in the thermal unit is faulty, or the forward / backward rotation switch of the output shaft is damaged (during duplex printing). Checked all this - the problem remained. Further suspicion fell on the registration clutch in the gearbox. It’s a pity that then I didn’t take many pictures because my hands were constantly lubricated from gears (there is a difficult mechanism to disassemble)
Further repair HP R2035. They printed to the last: after the thermal film broke, the rubber shaft broke, they stopped only when the printer began to jam the paper, the result: a repair in the amount of something around 3,000 rubles, and it could have been more if the heating element had burned out (a gray strip on photo) The photo shows that even the paper turned black from temperature
If you open the rear door of the printer after a paper jam and notice such pieces of a rubber shaft or thermal film (sometimes they fall into the tray or at the exit of the printer), then turn off the printer and take it to repair so that you don’t have to spend even more money on repairs
Often in HP / Canon printers, the bearings (bushings) of the rubber roller of the thermal assembly need to be replaced. They are made of heat-resistant plastic, in shape they can be left and right as half rings or one half ring, and the other on the gear side of the rubber shaft with an eyelet from scrolling in place.
The ball bearings familiar to many are also installed in printers, but the price of such devices is usually several times higher.In the upper right corner of the photo, it broke when trying to get it - it was completely erased. It often happens that they wear out unevenly, in which case there is a distortion and the thermal film moves out in the direction of the worn one and over time its edge breaks. Also, when they are worn, there is a clamp between the rubbers. the shaft and the heating element become smaller, which is why the toner is poorly fixed on the sheet (the image is erased if you run your finger over it). On the left side of the photo are two red bearings from canon 3110/3220/5730 and similar. The trick is that the one that is higher costs us around 200 rubles, and with a loop it is already almost 900 rubles. (!) The wholesale price will certainly be lower, but still I don’t understand what exactly is its high price, maybe one of the pikabushniks knows?
The next Brother 7xxx series printer seems to be their most common problem - poor print quality. It happens that a client calls and asks: “What's up with my printer”, and I want to answer - fucked. Well, I don’t like these printers, my parents have a DCP-7030R at home, my father rarely prints and everything is fine, and in an organization where you need to print a lot, they constantly bring with poor print quality. When I just started working in the service, I tried to somehow fix the cartridge, clean it there, replace the photo shaft, sometimes it seems to help, but more often, or when checking, the same thing happens again or then the dissatisfied client brings it again. The most reliable thing is to stupidly buy a new cartridge and not bathe. Moreover, a compatible cartridge is not much worse than the original, and the price is 3 times less
The cartridge itself consists of two parts: the toner cartridge (TN) and the Photo cartridge (Drum). The photo shows a disassembled Drum without a photo shaft. In general, cartridges themselves are consumables, and manufacturers each try to make them disposable in their own way, because this is just a gold mine for them. For example, someone puts chips with protection that are blocked after printing a certain number of sheets, and Brother uses instead of chips a mechanism that, in principle, is easy to reset to 0, in addition, they took some parts out of the printer into the cartridge and made it as disposable as possible . On average, 4-5 refills and the toner cartridge starts to crumble, and then the drum starts to print badly. As I said, cleaning and repairing the cartridge does not always help. You can clean the toner cartridge (completely pour out the old toner, revitalize the seals, clean the magnetic roller, dosing and cutting blades), but it’s more difficult with the drama. As we understand, the charge leakage begins and that's it.
Next comes the HP M400 printer - another example of how the manufacturer strives for disposable cartridges. Customer complaint: the printer breaks the teeth of the drive coupling due to the rotation of the photo shaft (by the way, the cartridges are original)
Fortunately, the couplings are available, and you can remove them from decommissioned ones. The trick is that on previous models with the same photoshaft drive unit, such garbage was not observed. If you pull out / insert the cartridge, the printer starts to rotate the shafts, but sometimes the engagement slips and over time the clutch breaks. I had to collective farm with a gearbox cover so that the clutch clamp and drives were tighter)
True, then, after about 3-4 months, the client again brought with the same trouble (and they print a lot). There are no photos of the further collective farm - another person took care of the printer. In addition to this jamb, the printer has a dull touch screen and mowing firewood - you wait almost an hour for installation, it reaches 99% and an error occurs that the installation is taking too long, restart the computer (if there are firewood installed on the same printer, completely remove them and start the installation again)
Next on the list is the Toshiba e18 MFP. A fairly popular model with an acceptable price for an A3 paper format device. The client says that he jams the paper in the thermal knot with an “accordion”. The client himself is to blame for this - in case of a jam, the paper must be carefully removed, otherwise you can easily break the seats of the paper separation fingers:
Of course, you can try to fix it with a thin drill, wire or paper clips (if you glue something, then with a special high-temperature glue that we don’t have 🙂), but in such cases we usually suggest replacing the entire cover of the thermal unit, there is no other way. If the printer gives a message about the need for service (after about 75 thousand sheets) and the print quality suits you, the error can be easily reset, but still sometimes look inside, see if everything is in order with it. By the way, I recently screwed up a lot with another similar Toshiba) I replaced the Teflon shaft, began to assemble it back, and at the stage of tightening the fixing screws of one of the heating lamps, I jerked my hand that broke the tip with the contact of the lamp (I'm a fool, I'm used to using an electric screwdriver, but I had to carefully tighten the usual one) Naturally, there is no way to repair it, and the lamps removed from the old devices disappeared somewhere. Fortunately, the boss did not swear much, he advised me to look into the thermal unit of the old decommissioned Toshiba model, which had been standing in the corner for a long time. I was lucky - although there was one lamp, instead of two in the 18th, it coincided in parameters with the broken one.
That's all for today, I think it's time to finish) Why didn't I have inkjet printers in my post? There was a time when our service refused to repair them at all. there was little exhaust from them. Recently, they decided to take them again, but only fixing problems not related to print quality is a dirty business, and there is no guarantee of work (start cleaning the nozzles at the most). Usually we reset errors, eliminate jams, change the capture rollers, “diapers”, and so on. Instead of seals at the end - fsh with Peekaboo from which I blew up in a voice at work: Mitka Makkonokhov and Zhorik Letov
What I liked while working in the SC was the repair of printers / copiers. Although I started with a banal PC repair, then laptops, navigators, etc. As a result, I stopped at the printer equipment, and for the last three years I have only been engaged in its repair. Now I will explain a little for those who do not know:
1. Repairing a printer is much more interesting (and even more difficult) than computers and laptops (only I don’t need about laptop BGA soldering, etc. a child can handle soldering at a thermal pro soldering station).
2. A variety of breakdowns, each printer is something new and a drop to experience. Yes, there are repetitive repairs, but they are not as huge as when repairing PCs / laptops. There are instances (the cold immediately ran through the body) with which you can fuck for several days, and knowing specifically the node in which the malfunction is (from personal experience - SHARP, I picked his bitch for three days, as a result - on the gear already when measuring the gear it turned out that the teeth were licked evenly by 1 - 1.5 mm.) For 10 years of experience in the SC, I have not yet seen a single laptop and PC, which would take more than 2-3 hours to diagnose.
3. Each printer is endowed with a magical mind. And if you don’t say at the end of the assembly and before the test check the phrase: “Well, just try to fuck off, I’m not going to disassemble you for the third time” - then there is a possibility that something has not been completed. The most important thing is communication with the printer, you need to feel it, so to speak (to know in which case in which area to fuck off your feet) .
4. Incredible buzz when everything works. Especially the buzz is obtained from the repair of the mechanical part (there is the most fierce pi * ets just ).
5. Copiers (these are such big office infernal machines) - the most raisin for an employee of the SC. Since this is the same printer, only more details - ask where are the raisins? They are charged 10 times more expensive for the repair price.
And finally, I would like to end with this phrase: you can’t just take and assemble so that there are no extra bolts left .
1. Received for repair Brother MFC-J3520 printer with compatible high volume cartridges that did not print in black.
2. MFP Brother MFC-J3520 turns on and off after a few seconds, more from the button does not turn on until the power goes out.
We raise the scanner, on the left we remove the cover that covers the connecting cables and loops. We take them off.
Let's remove the scanner holder.
We unscrew the screws of the upper black cover.
We snap off this cover on the right, on the left, and two latches in the center. Let's take this cover off.
Disconnect the control panel cable, ground cable.
We unscrew all the screws on top of the white cover, remove it.
We remove the adsorber, smudges of black ink are found under it.
Close inspection reveals damage to the black ink channel transparent film.
On top of the damage, we glue the plastic film with cyacrin-based superglue.
We assemble the printer in the reverse order.
Let's try to run it. An open lid error occurs, which is eliminated by inserting a special plug, the end of which presses on the lid micro switch. The printer starts up.
We try to carry out pumping - after each pumping, the print worsens.
We open all the valves in the cartridges and tilt the printer back to raise the ink level to the level of the head.
Print quality improves with every upgrade.
Conclusion: large cartridges are not designed for this printer. After pumping the nozzles, the air again enters the head.
With this problem, the Brother MFC-J3520 MFP turns on after connecting to the network and turns off after a while, after which it does not respond to the power button. After turning off the Brother MFC-J3520 does not turn on.
The problem lies in the malfunction of the MFP motherboard (formatting board, Main PCB), and is specifically related to the malfunction of the ionistor (supercapacitor - a cross between a capacitor and a battery).
We disassemble the MFP, take out the motherboard.
The supercapacitor is located on the motherboard next to the Ethernet connector. It has a huge capacitance of 0.22F and is designed for a small voltage of 5.5V. The element has low reliability. After soldering, measure the capacitance. It is either significantly lower than the nominal one, or does not work at all, like a capacitance.
We replace the ionistor with a new one, assemble the MFP back, turn it on and enjoy.
Printers, scanners, MFPs - office equipment has firmly entered our lives: these devices are now available in any office and in almost every home. Like any electronics, such devices, no matter how high-quality they are, can eventually begin to "jump". Someone in such cases immediately turns to a service center, someone tries to repair the printer on their own at home, which sometimes leads to disastrous results. Let's find out together in which cases do-it-yourself printer repair is justified, and when it is better to use the services of professionals.
Interruptions in the operation of printers can occur for various reasons. The most common problems faced by users can be described as follows:
Problems with feeding / issuing, uniform paper rolling.
The appearance of horizontal / vertical stripes on the sheets.
Loud noise during operation.
Problems turning on the printer.
An "invisible" cartridge that is not recognized by the printer.
Inability to print from a computer, or print "incomprehensible" characters.
Inability to print a given (usually large) volume.
We have listed several problematic situations, but in fact, printer malfunctions can manifest themselves in different ways - depending on the type of device, its “age” and other factors.
Let's see in which of the cases it is possible to repair printers at home, and whether it is possible in principle.
Strong noise during operation of the device is most likely caused by a malfunction of the gearbox or the main drive, so you should immediately contact the service center, and not try to “fix” the printer by repeatedly turning it on and off.
There are many sites on the Internet that describe in detail how you can easily and simply fix any technique with your own hands.However, in our opinion, printer repairs should be carried out only by specialists who will accurately determine and fix the problem, and not use improvised means (screwdrivers, nail files, scissors), as most users would do. “So what happens, at the first unsuccessful attempt to print a sheet of paper, run to the service center?” - you ask. No, you don’t need to run right away, you can still do something at home - for example, conduct an initial diagnostic of the printer.
Often the printer, oddly enough, does not work for "ridiculous" reasons:
incorrectly installed cartridge,
not set sheet limiters,
not fully retracted tray,
foreign objects stuck in the printer.
Therefore, if your device suddenly begins to wrinkle or tear paper, make sure that all the elements in it are installed correctly. Remove the cartridge and carefully inspect the device from the inside: if you see the remains of a jammed sheet, it is better not to try to get it yourself using sharp objects, they can cause much more damage.
If water, sand, for example, plaster, soil from a flower pot got inside your printer, toner spilled, unplug the machine immediately and contact the service center.
Video (click to play).
Another diagnostic technique that allows you to understand what the problem lies in is the use of one cartridge instead of another. If your printer "does not see" the cartridge, jams the paper under it, prints stripes on the sheet, install another cartridge in it, if, of course, you have one. Restoring the device's performance will indicate that the problem was in the cartridge, but if the problems persist, then the faults should be sought in the printer itself. By the way, sometimes stripes on paper indicate that you will soon need to refill the cartridge. When stripes appear on the sheets, remove the cartridge, shake it well several times and put it back in place: if the “striping” has disappeared, then it’s the toner that is running out.
