Plastic is not as popular as tile, but it also has many advantages. What are the advantages of PVC panels and what are their disadvantages?
The first thing you should pay attention to when buying plastic panels is their price. Truly strong, durable and non-hazardous products cannot be cheap.
The panels must be even - without waves or bends, with intact, intact edges, otherwise a perfect joint will not work and water will seep into the cracks. What it threatens in the bathroom is not difficult to guess.
Products with good strength characteristics should have a thickness of 1 cm or more, as well as the maximum number of stiffeners.
To finish the bathroom with plastic panels to please the eye, you need to evaluate the design of the material. Profiles must be from the same batch, otherwise some copies will differ in color or pattern.
For a small room, it is more correct to choose light panels without relief and texture. Glossy varieties of plastic are preferable to matte ones.
When decorating a spacious bathroom with pvc panels, plastic profiles with a pattern or ornament will do.
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When choosing options for finishing the bathroom with plastic panels, you need to consider the overall design of the room. For example, if we are talking about the classics, it is generally better to refuse plastic. The same advice applies to a bathroom in Provence, country or art deco style - natural materials and wall decoration with plaster or waterproof wallpaper are more appropriate here, combined with bathroom tiles.
Modern or minimalism is another matter, in such areas plastic is used very actively.
The design of the panels is very diverse - from imitation of ceramic tiles, natural wood or stone, to ornaments resembling wallpaper and spectacular panels with photo printing. Therefore, you should not be afraid that plastic will not allow you to realize creative design ideas.
In addition, the panels are perfectly combined with other finishing materials. A striking example: the lower part of the walls sheathed with clapboard and the plastered upper part.
Provence-style bathroom decoration using plastic panels
Provence-style bathroom decoration using plastic panels
Finishing the bathroom in a minimalist style using plastic panels
Art Deco bathroom decoration with plastic panels
A bathroom made of plastic panels with different patterns, which are combined in a certain sequence, looks modern and stylish. For example, a panel with a pattern is made around the mirror or in the shower area, and the rest of the room is made in one color.
Sometimes three types of panels with different prints and textures alternate with stripes, creating an interesting play of surfaces. This technique is especially good for large rooms with a low ceiling - the walls visually “stretch” upwards and the proportions seem more harmonious.
Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels with a frieze | imitation tiles
Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels with a frieze | imitation tiles
When studying pvc panels for a bathroom photo in the catalog and considering the design of a bathroom, you should pay attention to varieties with 3D images - they will decorate any interior."Volumetric" panels visually expand the space, as if creating another dimension. One significant “but”: panels with 3D paintings are suitable only for spacious rooms, since they need to be perceived from a great distance.
Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels with 3D images
The design of a bathroom made of plastic panels can be different, but you definitely can’t call it boring or unaesthetic. This is exactly the case when budget does not mean "too simple and cheap." Need a quick and high quality bathroom renovation? Then, without a doubt, you should choose plastic panels.
Photo of modern bathroom decoration with plastic panels
Bathroom decoration with plastic panels with a pattern
Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels in white and blue colors
Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels in a country house
Modern bathroom interior with plastic panels
Bathroom interior with black plastic panels
Photo of finishing the bathroom with plastic panels
Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels in pastel colors
Bathroom interior with panels
Contemporary bathroom design with panels
If you decide to carry out a long-planned toilet or bathroom renovation, then you, of course, know that the work of professionals will be quite expensive. Therefore, many people opt for do-it-yourself repairs. Having a great desire and financial capabilities, you can choose the option with plastic panels. In addition, the installation of PVC panels in the bathroom is within the power of a person who has never encountered repair work. Especially if you know how to attach the panels in the bathroom with your own hands step by step and what is needed for this.
Experts recommend starting repairs with preparing the surface where the frame or plastic materials will be attached. First of all, this applies to old plaster, which can slightly expand the space between the wall and the panel. In addition, with a frameless method of fastening, the walls will need to be treated with plaster to eliminate possible irregularities, and if the presence of small depressions is not prohibited, then large bulges are unacceptable.
With any method of fastening with your own hands, the walls must be treated with special solutions, with an antifungal effect.
The better the walls of the room are processed, the less likely it is that fungus or mold will form on them. Therefore, saving on them is not worth it, it is better if you go to a hardware store to purchase them.
If repairs have not been done in the bathroom for a long time, then right now you need to start replacing metal communication pipes. If your repair involves replacing or installing sockets in the bathroom, then before attaching the material, take care of supplying electricity to them.
Plastic panels can be installed by hand using two mounting methods:
To make it easier to figure out which mounting method to prefer, here are a few differences between the two mounting methods:
the metal frame takes up a lot of useful space, which is so critical for a toilet or bathroom;
the metal frame consists of separate profiles, so the installed plastic has voids underneath that are easy to push through;
in the case of the frame method of fastening, there will be a void between the wall and the plastic, in which various microorganisms will develop;
to make a frame for plastic panels, you will need to purchase metal profiles and various fasteners, while for the frameless method, you will only need liquid nails glue.
For frame cladding, you will need:
facing panels for a bathroom;
guide rails for the crate;
finishing profiles made of plastic;
plastic corners;
ceiling and floor plinth for the bathroom;
hacksaw;
self-tapping screws;
dowel;
perforator;
Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver.
For cladding in a frameless way, you need to prepare:
If you decide to do the cladding of a toilet or bathroom with your own hands, using a frameless fastening method, in addition to preparing liquid nails glue, you need to do some preparatory work. The most important point in the performance of these works is the preparation of the foundation.
In this case, we are not talking about a perfectly flat wall surface, differences of up to 3 mm are allowed. There should be no hills at all, and shallow depressions are allowed. To correct visible defects in the wall, it is plastered or puttied.
The next important point, in the frameless mounting method, is to work with the corners of the room. Most urban apartments have slightly rounded corners, in the case of plastic, such corners will create additional difficulties when installing panels. To correct these shortcomings, you can use a perforator, and make the corners expressive.
It remains to prime the surfaces of the walls and you can begin to mount the panels. For these jobs, you will need to stock up on liquid nails. After calculating the area of \u200b\u200bthe toilet and bathroom, calculate how much glue liquid nails you will need if its consumption, on average, is 1 bottle per 5 sq. m.
Having prepared the panel of the desired size, you need to apply liquid nails on it pointwise, placing the glue areas in a checkerboard pattern. Liquid nails are not applied close to the edges, since, by attaching the panel to the wall, excess glue will come out, smearing the front side of the coating.
With the smeared side, the panel is applied to the wall, and pressed down with the palm of the hand over the entire area. Then the material is torn off the wall and the glue is allowed to dry with liquid nails, about 5-7 minutes. After 5-7 minutes, the strip is again returned to the wall and pressed over the entire surface. This laying technology is not an invention of builders, but the specifics of working with glue liquid nails. If you ignore this technology, then the installed panels can easily move and the installation process will be disrupted.
Particular attention in this work is paid to the fastening of the first panel. To do this correctly, you need to use the level. And in order to avoid strip shifts during the laying of the remaining strips, dowels or self-tapping screws are clogged at the bottom and top. In the finished version, their installation sites will not be visible, since they are usually covered with ceiling and floor plinths.
Don't forget about the starting strips and corner joints. They are recommended to be installed in those places where they are really needed. If the toilet or bathroom room will be equipped with a floor plinth, then you should not remember the starting profile.
The plinth well strengthens the fastening of the panel below, and the frame - the ceiling at the top, so it is not recommended to start repairs, with cladding elements, from the ceiling.
You can also mount plastic panels with your own hands in a frame way. The work begins with the installation of horizontal plastic guide rails around the entire perimeter of the wall. To do this, you need to mark the walls for the installation of metal profiles. Using a puncher, drill holes in the markings, hammer in the dowels and, attaching the guides to the wall, attach them using self-tapping screws.
At the same time, it is not recommended to use wooden panels, since ideal joints cannot be achieved, which will lead to the destruction of the wooden frame due to constant humidity. The frequency of horizontal slats depends on how strong you want to make the cladding, but in general, it is customary to use the following distances:
when facing the ceiling - 30-40 cm;
when facing walls - 40-50 cm.
In this case, the distance of the first and last rails from the floor surface should be about 5-7 cm. And the end parts of the profiles should exactly fit into the corners of the room. The slats of the future frame must be fixed perpendicular to the panels to be installed.In most cases, the panels are placed vertically, which means that the slats must be perpendicular to them and parallel to the floor. The vertical arrangement of the panels not only visually increases the height of the ceilings, but also better removes accumulated moisture, since water drops will flow down, and with horizontally installed panels, water will linger on them.
After completing the frame, you can begin to mount the panels, but how to do it right? The panels must be mounted on the frame using self-tapping screws, which are easily screwed into them. In this case, you need to start from the corner farthest from the front door. To avoid moisture ingress between the panels, it is recommended to seal their joints with sealant.
In order for the panels to fit beautifully in the corners of the room, it is necessary to use such a device as an external and internal profile, which in appearance resembles the English letter L. A plinth can be used at the junction with the floor, then an additional profile is not required.
Having installed the side profile, one panel is inserted into it, and fixed to the frame rail. The remaining panels are inserted into the gaps of the previous one, very tightly. If you have provided a socket on the wall of the toilet or bathroom, then you need to cut a suitable hole on the panel to be installed and install it to the wall.
To give the room a more complete look, after installing the panels, attach the floor and ceiling plinths, in addition to the aesthetic function, they will also perform a practical one, hiding minor flaws.
To make the work go quickly, you should heed the advice of experts:
if the room of the toilet or bathroom is small, then it is recommended to carry out repairs with cladding in light colors in order to visually increase its area;
If you want your toilet or bathroom renovation to look spectacular and unique, use panels of various sizes or colors for cladding. As a design, you can take panels with drawings, but here the main thing is to harmoniously dock them;
before you start lining the room with your own hands, bring the purchased panels into the bathroom and leave them there for about an hour to avoid their deformation;
you need to fix the material from the farthest corner from the front door, in this case you can complete the most prominent places without errors and flaws;
before doing repairs with your own hands, look at all the problem areas where pipes or plumbing are located, this will help you quickly install the frame and plastic panels. For the frame, we usually make markings, observing the horizontal and vertical lines along which you will fasten the crate;
to mask the water and drain pipes in the toilet, it is recommended to make a snag panel, which will only improve the interior design.
Good day, gentlemen and ladies! I want to tell my story about the renovation of the bathroom and toilet, separate. From the purchase of the apartment, the renovation of the bathroom was postponed for 3 years, since other rooms were a priority. The right hour has come, we were just on vacation with the whole family in another city, I spontaneously decided to come home a month earlier before the end of the vacation to start work. This was at the beginning of 2016. Therefore, all materials were purchased in Mirny, if they had planned in advance, they could have been ordered from the mainland and would have received significant savings. The budget turned out to be around 150 thousand (approximately + -30 thousand more), purely based on materials. The main amount is collected from the bath, tiles, plumbing. I basically did all the work myself, if others did it, then you can safely add another 150-200 thousand for the work (probably) to the amount of materials. In our city, all prices are very high, it's a fact.
We have a house built in 1996, the square is small, the bathroom, toilet, balcony are very tiny. But the prices of apartments are the same as in Yakutsk, and the squares are less.
Probably I will post in the form of a photo report with notes.There were a lot of photos.
There were old Soviet square tiles on the floor, which were glued either with concrete or with super glue, hammered for 3 days 3 nights). Neighbors sorry again. Wallpaper was pasted on the walls, which were painted.
A good semi-professional assistant in repairing and cleaning carpets.
Stocked up with tiles. Honestly, I don’t remember how much they cost. Wall tiles cost 110 rubles / tile. Russian production. Quality for 3 with a minus. Even in one box, the dimensions are different in length and width, so when you glue it, the level starts to play. And if you ordered in advance from the mainland, then for this money you could order branded imported tiles, they don’t have such a jamb, they say.
A simple toilet bowl, for 7 thousand Karl. Big mistake.
The bathroom is acrylic, I like it, it's voluminous. Length 150 cm.
The old tub was metal. cooled down quickly.
We are in full swing preparing the base of the floor. Applying a deep penetration primer. Then a concrete screed.
Neighbor Aunt Luba did the bridles from time to time, Soft delicious buns!
Work to replace old metal pipes. I called the plumbers of the housing and communal services, they turned off the water, made 2 transitions to plastic from the hot water and cold water risers, and also installed 2 counters, 1 heated towel rail. Emptying my wallet by 10,000.
This photo shows how old metal pipes are clogged.
For a complete replacement of pipes, they asked for another 15 thousand rubles. This is without wall slashing. And my wife had an interesting idea. After watching a YouTube video on the installation of polypropylene pipes, I decided to do it myself. I bought a welding machine for 2 thousand rubles. In principle, nothing complicated. The main thing is not to overexpose the pipes in the welding machine.
Didn't like the paint on the wall. To remove paint, I made this design from a 5 liter bottle with a connection to a vacuum cleaner. The result is not particularly pleased, because. very long, dusty and noisy. I’ll tell you in advance, it’s easier how to do it: we clean the paint that comes off by itself, then we go through the paint again with a scraper or chisel, then we buy a solution - concrete contact, apply it and that’s it. The surface becomes flaky, like rough sandpaper. The tile adhesive adheres to it.
Here are the marks from the grinder on the wall.
Since the floors are very uneven, the slope is 3-5 cm per 1 meter, it is necessary to make an even level with the help of the so-called beacons (green dots on the floor). Then between the beacons we throw a solution of concrete and connect the beacons. We will fill in the inner squares along these lines.
As a result, we get a flat floor. There will be a bathtub on the right, so I decided to save concrete there, we can equalize the level with the help of legs.
Next, a layer of waterproofing is applied. For every fireman. Before each layer of concrete or waterproofing, we apply a primer for better adhesion.
We glue the tiles, between the tiles we make a distance of 2 mm, using crosses. In the future, the inter-tile space is filled with a special grout.
Bath installation. Behind the bathroom, he ditched the wall and put a pipe from the mixer there. When you switch the mixer mode to a shower, the water will go from above. This is the wife's idea.
On the left is a strobe for electrical wiring, we connected a washing machine and made sockets. Right for the shower. Red is the concrete contact layer.
2 faucets)) The bathroom fills up 2 times faster))
On the wall we begin to glue the tiles from the level of the bath. First we go through 1 horizontal line, then 2 rows of tiles. How to glue tiles can be viewed on the Internet, I watched YouTube)). There you can find the entire technological process of repair.
By the way, our walls are very crooked, sometimes with a propeller, sometimes with a slope. nightmare. And no one knew how to level the walls and would not have had time in time. The most difficult sections were the corners. More glue, time and nerves. Now the walls are not curved at all.
My mistake. Glued the mirror to the tile adhesive. The mirror is old from the previous owners.
Here you can see it very well. From above, the corner goes back to back, and from below it begins to diverge.The issue was solved by grouting and more glue)).
The ceiling is already done. Lighting - 5 point diode lamps, enough for the eyes. A shower was installed, it works well (China), I bought it in Yakutsk, I don’t remember in which store.
Drying glue ruined the reflective layer.
Dismantling with your favorite perforator.
I bought an ordinary countertop, in our city there is nothing but ordinary things. Or they will make it to order “like a cool one” at three prices.
Found a nightstand just the right size.
Not a single centimeter between the wash cabinet and the bathroom. Back to back. My perfectionism kicks in. The tabletop was installed on the corners in the wall and on the nightstand. Holds tight. At least jump.
Voila. The joint was smeared with white sealant.
Here is the end result.
The upper plinth needs to be redone, trash. The shower is good.
Toilet. The foundation has been prepared.
Concrete screed. It is done in the bathroom.
Waterproofing. Don't forget the primer.
And we begin to glue the floor tiles.
There are many pipes, meters, etc. To hide all this wealth, we make a frame structure from profiles with drywall.
Concrete contact is also applied to the drywall, then the tiles are glued. The ceiling is the same as in the bathroom, here 2-point. By the way, ventilation systems (fans) are installed in both the bathroom and the toilet. A very necessary thing.
Behind the toilet they made a hidden shelf.
That's all. In time, spent a year. 1 month did the main thing. Then a little bit, then the doors were changed, then they made a shelf in the toilet.
In Yakutsk, you can do everything even cheaper, and in a more original way, there are more choices in stores and prices are lower than ours. So keep it up. Post made so that others are not afraid to make repairs, everyone can also, even better
Bathroom renovation has always been one of the most difficult and painstaking. This is largely due to the tightness of the room, the presence of water pipes and a bulky bathroom. But there is another important factor that keeps many owners from major or cosmetic repairs - this is the high cost of materials and finishing work. But time and technology do not stand still, thanks to which new finishing materials appear on the market. One such material is plastic panels. Repairing a bathroom with do-it-yourself panels can be attributed to simple and affordable work, since special knowledge and skills are not required for decorating walls and ceilings with this material.
Repairing a bathroom with PVC panels certainly has a number of advantages. But, like any other building material, plastic panels are not ideal, and therefore, along with the advantages, you need to be aware of their shortcomings.
The benefits include :
a wide selection of colors and shades;
moisture resistance. This artificial material is not affected by water, fungi and mold, and this is especially important in conditions of high humidity in the bathroom;
ease of installation. All work can be done alone, without special knowledge or skills. For beginners in construction, renovating a bathroom with panels is very convenient;
the ability to hide communications. This feature of wall panels allows you to lay pipes or wiring anywhere in the bathroom without disturbing the beautiful design;
the possibility of additional insulation, noise and sound insulation. As in the case of communications, the space between the panels and the wall can be filled with an insulating cake;
unpretentious and easy to care for. The surface of the panels is flat and smooth, making it easy to clean them;
easy replacement of one or more panels if necessary. Due to the simple method of fastening the panels, in case of damage, they can be easily replaced with new ones without resorting to large-scale repairs;
low price.
The disadvantages include :
poor resistance to mechanical damage. Unfortunately, plastic panels do not tolerate high mechanical loads.But after all, no one is going to deliberately beat something heavy on the walls in the bathroom;
artificial material;
in the first days after installation, there is a technical smell. Due to the fact that PVC panels are an artificial material, they are produced by the chemical industry. And this, in turn, entails the use of substances with an unpleasant and of little use odor, which will gradually disappear over time;
when mounted on rails, the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room is reduced. The advantage of wall panels to hide communications and lay an additional insulating layer is leveled by the fact that this method of installation reduces the usable area of the bathroom. And this is unpleasant, especially for bathrooms with a small area.
As noted earlier, all panel installation work is quite simple and does not require any special knowledge or skills. But before you make a bathroom renovation with high-quality panels, you need to find out the features and methods of installing the panels, as well as perform the calculation of materials.
Bathroom renovation with panels - photo
To repair the bathroom with plastic panels, you will need certain tools and materials.
From materials would need:
plastic panels;
moldings;
wooden planks 10 - 20 mm thick or a metal profile;
special metal holders;
self-tapping screws, dowels or liquid nails;
special impregnation against mold and fungi;
insulating materials.
From tool would need:
a hacksaw with fine teeth or an electric jigsaw (a hacksaw is perfect);
impact drill or hammer drill;
screwdriver;
level and tape measure.
Important! There are only two ways to mount plastic panels: on liquid nails and crate. The first option will require a flat surface of the walls and ceiling, but will save the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. The option of mounting on the crate will allow you to hide communications, make additional insulation, but at the same time reduce the room. Which one to choose, decide directly to the owners.
Calculations of the number of panels are quite simple. To do this, you need to know the dimensions of the bathroom in order to calculate the area for decoration. For example, the area to be finished is 7.5 m2. The dimensions of the panel are 0.25 m by 2.7 m, which is equal to 0.75 m2. Now we divide 7.5 / 0.75 \u003d 10 pcs.
Important! When performing calculations, it must be borne in mind that for the sake of beauty, it is better to mount the panels from a single piece. Therefore, to calculate the quantity, you can measure the perimeter of the room minus the doorway and divide it by the width of the panel. The resulting value is best rounded up.
The calculation of the number of panels for the ceiling is performed by dividing the size of one of the sides of the room by the width of the panel. The length of the panel is selected based on the largest size of one of the sides. For example, if the width of the bathroom does not exceed 1.4 - 1.5 m, then you can safely buy panels 3 meters long and cut them in half. And if the largest side is more than 2 m, then you should choose panels with a length of 2.6 or 2.7 m.
When mounting panels on a frame made of wooden bars or a metal profile, the amount of material should be calculated. To do this, you need to know the perimeter of the room, which, in fact, will be the length for one row of the frame. Further, having measured the height from ceiling to floor, we divide it by 0.4 m. It is this step that will be the maximum allowable so that the panels do not sag. We multiply the resulting number of rows by the perimeter, this will be the total length for the frame.
First of all, we clean the walls and ceiling from old finishing materials. After that, we treat the surface with an agent against the appearance of fungi and mold. If we planned to make a frame out of wood, then we process all the bars with the same tool.
While the bars are drying, we mark the places of their installation on the walls and ceiling.The installation location of the upper bar on the wall will be 5 cm below the ceiling, and the lower one 5 cm above the floor or edge of the bathroom. On the ceiling we keep the same distance with the difference that it will be from the wall. The bars on the walls and ceiling should be installed perpendicular to future panels. That is, if the panels are placed vertically, then the rows of the frame will be horizontal and vice versa.
Now we cut all the bars to the desired length and mark points for fasteners on them. After that, we apply the bar to the mark on the wall and, holding it, drill holes in it so that marks from the drill remain on the wall. At the points obtained, we drill holes for the dowels. We drive dowels into the holes obtained and fasten the planks to the wall using 6x60 self-tapping screws. Using the level, make sure that all the strips are in the same plane. If the wall is uneven, then in places of large failures it is necessary to place a gasket made of wood or other material.
Important! In narrow spaces, such as above a doorway, the frame slats can be placed a short distance apart. If it is planned to install additional fixtures on the ceiling, then in the places where they are installed, the frame must be reinforced with transverse strips, to which the plastic panel will be attached.
Further, if this is planned, insulating materials are laid between the rows of the frame, and you can proceed to install the panels in place. We begin to mount them from the most prominent corner of the room. First of all, all moldings and panels are cut to length.
Important! The panel has a spike-groove connection structure.
Then we install a docking corner molding in the corner and insert the panel into it with the side where the groove is located. With a little effort, we drive the panel inward until it stops. It remains to fix the panel to the frame slats. To do this, we use self-tapping screws 3.5x16, which we screw into the protruding spike of the panel. Also, to fix the panels, special metal holders are used, which closely support the panel and are fixed to the frame slats with self-tapping screws or nails. Subsequent panels are installed in the same way. Special moldings are laid in all corners and transitions.
Important! If the panel does not fit in width at the end of the wall, it can be cut lengthwise and, after installation, hide the edges with a corner molding.
Installation of panels on the ceiling is carried out in a similar way. First of all, a corner molding is installed, and the first panel is inserted into it. But there is one trick here. Since the ceiling is completely in view, its panels must have a symmetrical shape. Therefore, if you need to trim panels for beauty, you can trim the first and last so that they are the same width.
An indisputable advantage of mounting ceiling panels on a frame is the possibility of installing spotlights. The main thing is to pre-wire the wiring and cut holes in the panels for the lamps.
This installation method is somewhat simpler, but requires high-quality surface preparation. As in the case of frame fastening, we first remove all the old trim. After that, we impregnate the wall with a remedy for fungi and mold. Next, we plaster the wall, making its surface as even as possible. The maximum allowable error can be 2 - 2.5 mm.
Now install the corner molding. We dot the surface of the panel with liquid nails, trying to evenly cover the entire surface. You can take a step of 20 - 25 cm. After that, we apply it to the wall and put it into the groove of the molding. The subsequent panels are installed in the same way.
These two options for fastening PVC panels can be combined: use liquid nails for walls, and make a frame for the flow. This will save usable space and at the same time make a beautiful backlight.
Repair of bathrooms and toilets with plastic panels is a simple, affordable and, most importantly, cheap finishing option.Of course, the panels have their weaknesses, but there are probably more pluses. Such a simple and quick repair can be afforded by those who either have little time or a limited budget.
Video (click to play).
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