fed drew a scary picture
uncleandrew rush to look for numbers.
Candy AQUAMATIC 800 T-45 is a compact washing machine that can fit even in a small bathroom or kitchen. It can even be installed under the sink, if the space in the room does not allow.
We start disassembling from the top cover, for this we unscrew the two bolts for 7 at the back. The funny thing is that the set usually has a head for 6 and 8, and for 7 you have to look in the store.
The tank weighs on the upper metal bar on the springs, the springs cling to the white clamps along the edges. The tank is suspended in order to dampen vibration from drum rotation and reduce wear on parts. On the same bar are the places of fastening of the transport bolts. They fix the tank in a stationary state so that it does not hang out, is not damaged by itself and does not break anything else when transporting the machine. Washing machine manufacturers prohibit the transportation of washing machines without screwed bolts, this is a violation of the warranty! At the same time, if they are not removed before commissioning, the machine will start to jump and there will be increased wear of parts, which will lead to breakage in the future!
Video (click to play).
Next, move on to the back of the washing machine.
To begin with, we will pull out the drain hose from the sewer and drain the remaining water from the machine. On the back wall of the machine, the drain hose is raised and screwed with a clamp, you need to unscrew it and lower it into some container. You also need to unscrew the water hose, but first turn off the faucet with a tap to the washer so as not to flood the apartment.
Next, unscrew the 6 bolts of the back cover with a key of 7.
We take off the lid and see a lot of interesting things)
Remove the belt from the pulley and pull the silicone hose from the plastic tube.
With a key or a head for 24, we unscrew the nut that fixes the pulley, after which, shaking, remove it from the shaft.
We disconnect the ground terminal from the shaft and pull out the wire from the plastic tank mounts. In one place you will have to work with wire cutters, the wire is fused into the tank. The black soot on the tank is the result of belt abrasion as it spins.
Next, you need to disconnect the tank drain hose from the pump by squeezing a kind of clamp.
Also in the photo above you can see the leg that holds the tank. There are two on both sides. They are held on by four bolts. We unscrew them by tilting the car first on one side, and then on the second.
Let's take care of the front panel, take out the powder cuvette.
Loosen the two front panel screws.
These parts must be removed in order to pull out the tank.
After the panel is removed, unscrew the water valve and remove the inlet water hose from the powder cell compartment.
Disconnect the water valve terminals and pull it out along with the hose. We release the drive and remove it, for this we bend its end from the side of the front panel with a seat, after which we turn it so that the groove on the other side matches and remove it.
We unscrew the two bolts and remove the compartment for the powder cuvette. Remove the sunroof opening button mechanism.
We take out and move away other electronics that may interfere with the lifting of the tank.
Before removing the tank, it is necessary to pry with a slotted screwdriver and pull out the plastic ring that fixes the rubber cuff of the drum on the front side of the washing machine. Unfortunately there is no photo. We bend the released cuff into the inside of the drum, it will interfere and cling to everything when lifting. Next, we need an assistant. The metal plate on which the tank hangs must first be unscrewed. It is bolted on with four screws. Well, the moment of truth, dragging the tank up. You won’t be able to pull out exactly, the shaft will interfere with you, try to dodge! After the tank with stones is pulled out, use pliers to remove the springs and the iron plate that prevents the removal of the upper stone.
The stones are removed by unscrewing two nuts on one and two nuts on the second. You can see them in the photo, you can't go wrong. They are needed for stability during rotation, otherwise the tank will “fly” inside the machine.
We disassemble the plastic tank, for this we unscrew the bolts in a circle, and then we disconnect the latches and half the tank. You may break a couple of latches, but it does not matter. When reassembled, it will be airtight without them.
Having disassembled the tank, rotate the drum inside. When rotating, it can be seen that the distance from the drum to the ten changes. Curvature on the face.
Next, you need to somehow knock the drum out of the tank. It is possible with the help of an assistant and a mallet with a hammer, so as not to damage. Or find a tire that fits the drum so that the drum goes inside, and the plastic tank rests on its edges.
There is a crack on one shoulder of the cross, this can be seen if the drum is cleaned of powder. Therefore, the shaft has slightly shifted from the center and gives an imbalance.
The crosspiece is soldered to the drum and in order to change it, you will have to drill out the attachment points. The new crosspiece is screwed onto the bolts. It is difficult to find, it is mainly sold with a drum assembly. Good luck with the repair!
Message stasprachkis » 05 Sep 2018 11:18
Message Lehab » 05 Sep 2018 11:35
Message stasprachkis » 05 Sep 2018 11:52
Message Lehab » 05 Sep 2018 13:24
Masters can always be called. but I want to do it myself, for this I turned here) The wire is needed to check the selector, and the Ten is easier to replace if the problem is really in it.
Message stasprachkis » 05 Sep 2018 14:23
Message Lehab » 05 Sep 2018 15:09
Message Lehab » 07 Sep 2018 10:10
Message transform » 07 Sep 2018 10:14
Message Lehab » 07 Sep 2018 10:53
Where to go further into the selector or board?
Message stasprachkis » 07 Sep 2018 15:49
Message Lehab » 12 Sep 2018 20:17
The story continues. I decided to ring the INVENSYS selector 30 contacts with a short shaft.
It turns out you need to change the selector, or can it be cured?
But do not worry too much, most of the breakdowns can be solved independently.Specialists from the Kandy service center are sure that many errors occur due to incorrect handling.
Specialists from the Kandy service center are sure that many errors occur due to incorrect handling. By the way, I recommend contacting EuroBytService if you need a really high-quality and fast repair of a washing machine of this brand.
It is good if the machine is equipped with a self-diagnosis function. Then the built-in controller itself will determine what the malfunction is and will report this with an alphanumeric code on the display.
The machine does not turn on.
There is water in the drum.
The water does not heat up.
There is no water drain or it is not collected at all.
During operation, an incomprehensible noise or strong vibration is heard.
Failure of the electronic module. With this problem, the machine will not work, even if it is plugged in, the programs are not configured, the indicators flash randomly.
candy machine won't turn on
What should be done in this case?
Point 1 did not help? Maybe the socket is not working? Try plugging another electrical appliance into it.
The cause of the breakdown may be the oxidation of contacts or burnout in the power button. You can check this with a tester. If a problem is found, the part is replaced with a new one.
There are many reasons why a heating element fails. The most common are wear or a thick layer of scale on the heating element due to hard water.
How to check its performance and, if necessary, repair the candy washing machine with your own hands?
Below you will see the shank of the heater with two wires.
Using a multimeter, you need to determine the resistance of the device. If it is 20-30 ohms, then it is in working condition.
If the heating element is faulty, you need to get it. To do this, the bolt between the wires is unscrewed, and the part is pulled out of the machine. The heating element can stick, then it is difficult to get it without the help of a rubber mallet.
The performance of the heating element is checked by turning on the machine in heating mode.
Another reason why water may not be heated is a breakdown of the temperature sensor. In this case, the machine gives an error of 05 or 5 blinks.
VIDEO Door malfunction
A breakdown of the hatch blocking device is indicated by the code E01 or the indicator flashes only 1 time. The reason may be in
To dismantle the lock, you will need to remove the hatch seal. To do this, the clamp holding it is hooked with a screwdriver. After removing the gum, unscrew the two screws that secure the lock. The part changes, and the machine is assembled in reverse order.
Drain system problem
At the same time, the machine cannot drain the used water and displays the message E03 on the display or flashes the indicators three times. What can be done?
Find the filter and substituting a low capacitance, unscrew it counterclockwise.
Clean and rinse under water pressure.
The filter is attached to the tank with a pipe. It also needs to be checked, as it is often clogged with various deposits. You can do this with a screwdriver. But, carefully without damaging the pipe.
The inlet hose also needs to be cleaned. To do this, it is disconnected and cleaned with a cable with a brush.
An inlet filter is installed on it, in which sand and rust are often found. The problem in this part is accompanied by the display of error E02 on the display or two blinking indicators.
This sensor ceases to function if the tube attached to it becomes clogged.
After cleaning it from dirt, blow it. If you hear a click, then the device is in working order.
Bearing failure
If the bearings break or wear out, the machine makes a loud hum during operation. To get to them in the candy washing machine, you will need to remove the top cover and pull out the tank. Kandy cars are compact, so the elements inside the equipment are located tightly to each other.
The algorithm of actions is as follows:
The powder container is pulled out.
The counterweight is unscrewed.
The belt is removed from the drum pulley.
Wires are unhooked from the heating element.
The engine is taken out along the guides. All wires coming from it are preliminarily disconnected.
The tank is disassembled into 2 parts.
The pulley is removed from the drum shaft.
With light tapping, the bearing is knocked out. You can not hit the shaft! For these purposes, a wooden block is used.
11. The drum bearing is also knocked out.
This instruction applies to machines with a split tank. Some models have one-piece tanks, then the process becomes much more complicated and it becomes problematic to replace bearings at home.
It is easier to repair the candy aquamatic washing machine, as it is equipped with a self-diagnosis system. To decipher the error code, you need to pay attention to the left indicator. After reading the instructions and finding out how many flashes are typical for a certain error code, you can repair the machine with your own hands.
– Code 1 means the sunroof is blocked. In this case, you need to check whether the hatch is tightly closed. This code also indicates a problem with the controller.
– Code 2 gives an error of water entering the tank - either it is not enough, or not at all. The reasons may be in the valve, controller, water tap, blockage.
– Code 3 characterizes drain problems. The pump, drain hose, or filter and siphon may have broken.
If there is water in the drum after the washing program is completed, it first shuts off the water supply, removes the panel in the lower part of the housing and drains the water using the drain pump filter. After that, you can sort out the problem. The pump is being checked.
VIDEO
VIDEO
Thanks to an adequate ratio of quality and cost, Candy brand washing machines have found many fans among our consumers.
But, as you know, there is no perfection in the world: wonderful Italian devices sometimes break down.
Fortunately, the majority of faults can be repaired and it is quite possible that you will cope with the problem yourself after reading this article. So, Kandy is a washing machine: do-it-yourself repair.
If the Kandy washing machine is malfunctioning, you can try to repair it yourself. Of all the numerous elements that make up the washing machine, probably only the frame and decorative trim cannot break. All others are more or less likely to fail.
Here are the most common problems to solve:
The machine cannot be turned on.
The water in the tank remains cold.
The hatch does not want to open.
Water is poorly collected or does not drain.
When the machine is running, there is increased vibration and unusual noise.
A great help for the repairman is the self-diagnosis function.
If something went wrong, the built-in controller itself determines the malfunction and reports it in some way.If there is a display, such as in the ActivaSmart model, an alphanumeric code is displayed on it. Owners of machines without a display (Aquamatic model) can guess the nature of the malfunction by the number of LED flashes on the control panel.
For repairs at the amateur level, you will need the simplest tools - wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
You can find out the condition of the electrical part using a multimeter and a phase indicator screwdriver.
A special tool has to be used only when replacing bearings - they are pressed with an interference fit, so a puller will be needed.
We strongly recommend that before dismantling a particular unit, take a picture of the wires connected to it so that there are no connection problems during assembly.
Well, now let's see how you can return this most useful device to working condition.
In this regard, the repair manual contains the following recommendations:
Unplug the power cord from the socket, plug it back in and try again to start the device.
If the machine does not turn on again, test the outlet with another known working electrical appliance.
The most common reason for such a failure is the oxidation or burnout of the contacts on the power button. This element is checked using a special tester and, if necessary, replaced with a new one.
The cause of the "strike" may also be a faulty control module (the indicator flashes 14, 15 or 18 times in a row). To repair or replace it, you must contact the workshop.
The reason that the washing machine began to treat its duties “with coolness” in most cases is the failure of the heating element (error code “E05” or the indicator flashes 16 times every 5 seconds).
It can simply burn out from resource exhaustion, like a light bulb, or it can “order to live long” prematurely - due to a thick layer of scale.
Manipulations with the heater are carried out in the following order:
After unscrewing the appropriate screws, remove the rear wall.
Locate the heater shank sticking out of the bottom of the tank (two wires are connected to it).
Determine the resistance of the heating element using a multimeter. If it is suitable, the device will show 20 - 30 ohms, if it is burned out - "infinity".
If the heating element is faulty, unscrew the nut holding it (between the contacts) and carefully remove it from the tank. If it’s stuck, gently hit a couple of times with a rubber mallet (or a regular one on the attached wooden block).
Before installing a new heating element, the inner surface of the tank around the hole must be descaled.
To make sure that the heating element is working, it is enough to turn on the machine for heating and look at the electric meter - the disk rotation speed or the indicator flashing frequency should increase sharply.
A less common cause is the failure of the temperature sensor (E05 or 5 flashes). To check, first measure its resistance at room temperature, then - after heating with hot water. For a non-working element, the resistance will remain constant.
The main problems associated with connecting the washing machine, consider here.
If there is not enough space in the bathroom, then the washing machine has to be installed in the kitchen. In this topic https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/740/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/kak-podklyuchit-stiralnuyu-mashinku-na-kuhne.html you will find tips for connecting the appliance for beginners and experienced.
If in the near future its appearance is not expected, the lock can be opened independently. This will be possible if you remove the front cover from a de-energized machine and tilt it back a little.
It happens that the lock itself requires replacement.To dismantle it, you first need to carefully remove the hatch seal by prying the clamp holding it with a screwdriver. After that, two screws fixing the lock will become available.
If the machine cannot get rid of the waste water (error "E03" or 3 blinks), it is most likely a clogged filter. It could also be a pump failure. Do the following:
After removing the front bottom panel, locate the drain filter on the left side of the machine.
Place a container under the machine, unscrew the filter and free it from accumulated dirt.
Also inspect the tank pipe to which the filter is attached. It is often clogged with silty deposits, which must be carefully removed with a screwdriver.
After turning on the machine in the network, start it in drain mode and look at the pump impeller (it can be seen through the hole in the filter plug). If the pump is good, it will rotate. It happens that the impeller rotates, but the operation of the pump is accompanied by a strong hum, and when the impeller sways from side to side in a direction perpendicular to the axis (the machine, of course, must be turned off), you can feel that it is very loose. In this case, the impeller may jam from time to time, which is the cause of problems with draining. Such a pump needs to be replaced, for which you will have to remove the back wall.
It will also be useful to clean the inlet filter, for which you need to disconnect the inlet hose. It is also often clogged with sand and rust, as a result of which water enters the machine very slowly (error "E02" or 2 flashes).
The reason for the lack of a normal drain can also be a malfunction in the level sensor, also called a pressure switch (located under the top cover). If the tube attached to it becomes clogged with dirt, the sensor will not function. After removing the dirt, you can check the operation of the pressure switch by blowing into the tube. A working device should respond with a click.
If the machine began to work with a loud hum, most likely one of the bearings needs to be replaced. To do this, you need to remove the tank, which in Candy machines is done through the top. In some models, the tank is one-piece and to replace the bearings it must be sawn and then welded. Only the workshop can do it right. At home, bearing replacement is only possible for machines with a collection tank. To get to it, you need to remove the panels - top and back.
It is also better to dismantle the front panel so as not to accidentally scratch it when removing the tank.
Before you get the tank, you need to do the following:
disconnect all the hoses connected to it (the clamps are unclenched with pliers);
remove the powder distribution hopper;
unscrew the counterweight;
remove the belt from the drum pulley;
disconnect the wires from the heating element;
after unscrewing the bolts and disconnecting the wires, remove the engine (pulls out along the guides);
remove the hatch by unscrewing the screws under the sealing cuff (the clamp fixing the cuff is pryed off with a screwdriver).
Having disassembled the tank into two parts, the pulley is removed from the drum shaft, and then the shaft is knocked out of the bearing with careful tapping. You can’t hit the shaft directly - you need to put a wooden block. Next, you need to carefully knock out the bearing from the tank with uniform blows around the perimeter.
The new bearing is installed in place using a simple device consisting of a pressure washer, a threaded rod and a pair of nuts. One nut is screwed onto the rod on one side - it will put pressure on the pressure washer that presses the bearing. The second nut is screwed onto the rod from the other side (rests against the tank) - it must be slowly rotated.
This information will help you decide on the choice of a kitchen faucet. Characteristics of devices by manufacturers, material and mechanics.
VIDEO
Kandy automatic washing machines are affordable and compact. A convenient control system and a wide selection of programs have made the technique popular among users.
However, over time, even reliable equipment can fail. Is it possible to repair the Kandy washing machine with my own hands? Quite!
You just need to find out what the error codes on the control panel mean, and then find and fix the problem.
Let's analyze the main problems that are typical for cars of this brand. We will also find out how you can repair Candy washing machines with your own hands.
You have noticed that the Kandy washing machine does not drain the water. The program may stop right in the middle of washing. Due to the fact that the water does not go away completely, you take out wet things after spinning.
What are the reasons for such a breakdown:
The drain system is clogged. If debris gets into the drain filter or hose, a blockage will occur. It is necessary to check the pump and the pipe from the tank to the pump. Damage to the drain pump (pump). Often, small objects entering the pump cause it to break.
Why is the Candy washing machine not working? You habitually start the washer, but it does not respond to your actions. Let's look at the causes of this problem:
Faulty network cable or extension cord. He could burn out, twist.
Lack of voltage in the network, or it is not enough to start SM Kandy. This can happen if repairs are being carried out on your site, a powerful tool is involved, and so on.
The contacts on the start button are oxidized, so the machine does not respond to turning on.
Malfunction of the Kandy washing machine control module. The module is responsible for all programs in the CMA, therefore, if it breaks down, the equipment fails to work.
If you notice a puddle of water under the washing machine, you need to urgently look for a leak.
Attention! Do not step into the water, you may be electrocuted. If possible, disconnect the CM from the mains or turn off the electricity supply at the switchboard.
Tray dispenser. If you do not periodically clean the tray, powder accumulates in it, which clogs the nozzle. As a result, leakage comes from the tray.
Drain pipe of the Candy washing machine. If it is damaged, water flows out through the bottom of the CM.
Rubber cuff of the hatch. With prolonged use, the cuff could leak and lose tightness. Or it is damaged by small objects during washing.
The washing machine does not start the washing process or washes things in cold water. The reason for this is a malfunction of the heating element (heater). Basically, the element fails due to scale or damaged contacts.
Wear of bearings, oil seals, motor brushes leads to various malfunctions in the Kandy washing machine. For example, you may notice a knock and rumble when the washing machine is running, the drum stops rotating.
These include problems with closing the hatch door, broken wiring between parts and the control module, malfunction of the control board of the Candy washing machine.
How to figure out what kind of breakdown happened to your car? Error codes will help you.
Thanks to the self-diagnosis system, a malfunction code is displayed on the Kandy washing machine display. After decrypting it, the user understands which part needs to be checked. So it becomes possible to independently repair Candy washing machines.
Depending on the type of model, the SM can manifest the error in different ways:
Models like Activa with electronic controls show an error on the display.
Models Candy Aquamatic (Kandy Aquamatic), signal a problem by blinking the lower light on the left.The number of flashes after a pause means the error code.
For washing machines Candy Holiday, Aquamatic, Activa and other models, the following error codes are typical: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E09.
Repairing a Kandy washing machine with your own hands is not so difficult. To do this, you need to know its common faults and have some knowledge of electrical engineering. It is enough to watch a video on this topic (presented below) and much will become simple and understandable.
In order to repair the washing machine yourself, you need to carefully prepare for the repair. The tool, accessories and workplace are prepared first. For disassembly you will need:
Screwdriver Set;
wrenches for 8, 10, 17 and 19;
pliers and side cutters;
pliers for self-clamping clamps;
an awl and a small hammer.
The best place for disassembly is the garage. The main thing is that there is space and good lighting. At the workplace, you need to carefully lay out the tool, clean rags, sealant, WD-40 liquid, brush. It remains to prepare a soldering iron and an electrical measuring device, for example, a tester.
For those who will be making repairs for the first time, it is advisable to have a camera to photograph the disassembly sequence. The pictures will be of great help when assembling the machine.
Before you start repairing the washing machine, you need to find a malfunction due to which the device does not work. There are few of them. The most laborious of them is bearing replacement . It is immediately necessary to determine which tank is installed in the car. If non-separable, self-repair is better to postpone. Of course, you can rely on your experience, but it is better to entrust this work to specialists from the service. You will have to saw the tank to get to the bearings, and then it will need to be glued again. It is much easier to carry out repairs on a typewriter with a collapsible tank.
The machine must be dismantled to replace the bearing. For this purpose, the top and rear panels are first removed. The detergent dispenser is immediately removed along with the tray holder. Now nothing prevents the detachment of the front decorative panel. It remains to carefully pull out the tank. Here you need to be extremely careful. The fact is that a lot of hoses, wires and other parts are attached to the tank. All of them must be carefully disconnected, secured, removed the loading hatch, and only then remove the tank. Moreover, this operation is almost impossible to perform alone, you will need a second pair of hands.
To remove the bearings, we disassemble the tank, remove the pulley from the shaft, take out the shaft and carefully begin to remove the bearings (there are two of them in the car). The best thing to do is special puller . In extreme cases, you can knock it out with a hammer.
The next step is to install new bearings. Here, as a rule, there are no difficulties. We assemble the car in reverse order, using photos.
Important. Before installing new bearings, their seats must be well cleaned and lubricated with grease, for example, Litol-24.
The following common problem is shock absorber wear . This is a fairly simple operation. If during washing or spinning the machine vibrates very strongly, then it's time to replace the shock absorbers. They are at the bottom of the tank. Given their design feature - non-separability, it must be remembered that shock absorbers are not repaired, but replaced.
To remove them, you must first unscrew the lower mounting bolt (in the place where the shock absorber is attached to the machine body), and then the upper one. Instead of bolts, depending on the model, there may be plastic pins with latches. In this case, you must press the latch and push the pin out of its seat. For example, a screwdriver. After disconnecting the fasteners, the shock absorber is removed and replaced with a new one.
Advice. When buying new shock absorbers, the seller must show a sample of the old one.
Sometimes, in order to repair Kandy's car, it is enough replace the heating element in it (heating element). Access to it is carried out with the rear cover of the machine removed. The removal process itself is not difficult. First of all, all wires are disconnected from the heating element. Then the fastening nut is loosened and the screw is pressed inward. After these operations, the heating element is carefully removed from its seat with a slotted screwdriver. When installing a new heating element, it is very important not to skew and not use brute force. Immediately after installation, without assembling the machine completely, it is necessary to check its operation by heating water to 60ᵒ. If such a wash passes without water leakage, you can assemble the machine to the end and install it in its place.
Important. When disassembling, try to remember the places where the wires are connected so that you do not confuse them during assembly.
A complete disassembly of the Candy washing machine will be needed in case motor brush replacement . Repair in itself is not difficult, but without its implementation, the device will not work. The brush assembly of the electric motor is quite stable in operation. Without replacing it, the machine usually works for 5 years. There have been cases when this period overlapped more than twice. It all depends on the intensity of the load on the machine. Replacing the brush assembly is very simple. The only problem is getting to the motor. When this is done, there will be no barriers to repair.
Repair of all washing machines, including Kandy, is not very difficult. Especially when there is knowledge in electrical engineering and plumbing. And, of course, experience in repair work.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
