Candy cs2 104r DIY repair

Washing machines from the Italian manufacturer Kandy have found their niche in the Russian market. These machines are distinguished by their small size and reasonable price. However, their quality is such that the repair of Candy washing machines is carried out by craftsmen much more often than Bosch or LG. What are the typical malfunctions, and whether it is possible to fix them with your own hands - this will be discussed further.

Any washing machine can break down. The reasons can be different, banal or, on the contrary, too serious, which will lead to expensive repairs of equipment. Professional diagnostics will help to determine exactly what is broken. But in most cases, such diagnostics can be carried out independently, the main thing is to listen well, take a closer look, and have tools at hand.

What goes wrong in Kandy typewriters most often? Masters note the following faults:

• blockage of the drain system or its malfunction. When clogged, the machine does not drain the water and stops after the wash cycle, the laundry is not wrung out. If the tightness of the connection of the pipes, hose or drain pump is broken, then water may leak during the spin cycle. In addition, a characteristic hum during the draining of water indicates a malfunction of the drain system, most often this is due to a clogged pump.
• wear of moving parts of the washing machine. Parts that are heavily stressed during washing are subject to faster wear than those that are not stressed. These elements include oil seals, bearings, shock absorbers, engine.

The average service life of bearings is about 7 years, their replacement takes place along with the replacement of oil seals.

The malfunction of these parts is manifested as follows: strong vibration of the machine during the spin cycle, knocking or grinding of the drum even when the machine is not working, the drum stops, the machine does not start for washing after water has been filled.

heating element malfunction. This breakdown often happens with some models of Kandy washing machines. It manifests itself in the fact that the machine either carries out the washing process in cold water, or does not start washing at all.

electronic and electrical failure. Electrical wires and their connection to sensors can cause the machine to stop washing at some point. Most often, the terminals oxidize due to high humidity. But there are also burnouts of wires due to high load. During power surges, sensors and the machine control module may fail. This affects her work in different ways.Problems in draining and collecting water indicate a breakdown of the pressure switch, problems with spinning may indicate a tacho sensor.

A clogged drain system is a malfunction that can be easily fixed with your own hands. In service centers, it is classified as the first category of complexity. A similar problem usually occurs when the rules for the operation and care of the washing machine are not followed. Cleaning the drain system begins with cleaning the drain filter.

In Kandy typewriters, the drain filter is located at the bottom, on the left behind a small door or behind the bottom panel. To clean it, you need to carefully unscrew it counterclockwise and pull it towards you. Don't forget to put a large rag on the floor so that the remaining water in the tank does not leak onto the floor. After removing the filter, rinse it in water to remove lint and other dirt, then reinsert it.

To clean the hose, drain pipe and pump, you need to lift the machine or lay it on its side. Before doing this, be sure to turn off the power supply, as well as the drain hose from the sewer. You can get to the pump in the Kandy machine through the bottom, which is either missing or there is a pallet. It unscrews easily.

So, loosen the clamps and disconnect the pipe and hose. We wash the pipe in water and wipe it with a dry cloth. We clean the hose with a cable with a brush and inspect for damage. Next, disconnect the sensors from the drain pump, unscrew the screws holding the pump, and take it out. In the pump, you need to inspect the impeller, which is located under the cover.

Pile, hair, wool can be wound on it, so we carefully clean everything. Using a multimeter, we check its performance. If the pump burned out, then in this case it is better to replace it with a new one, repair in this case is not advisable.

After cleaning, we assemble the machine and run the wash in idle mode.

The failure of the moving parts of the washing machine is a serious repair. Replacement of motor brushes, bearings, shock absorbers is classified as the third category of complexity. The difficulty in working with bearings lies in the fact that the sleeve on which they are mounted is thermally pressed, in addition, the bearings themselves are not easy to get. But in general, the whole algorithm for replacing bearings in all machines is similar.

Silent operation of the washing machine is provided by shock absorbers. And if one day you hear a roar, then, most likely, the problem is in the shock absorbers, in rare cases, in loose counterweights. It is not worth operating the machine with faulty shock absorbers, because this can lead to even more complex breakdowns. It is best to delegate their replacement to the master, but if you wish, if you have time and space to disassemble the machine, you can do this work yourself, step-by-step instructions that will allow you to do the work are in the article on replacing shock absorbers and dampers.

When the washing machine is used for a long time, the heating element fails. The reason may be hard water, which is deposited on the surface of the heating element in the form of plaque.. In the event of a malfunction, an error code will appear on the display. The heating element is located behind the rear wall of the machine under the tank. The algorithm for replacing the heater is simple:

1. unscrew the back wall;
2. unscrew the bolt holding the heating element;
3. disconnect the sensors from the heater, after taking a photo of their correct connection;
4. using a flat screwdriver, carefully pull out the heating element towards ourselves;
5. we examine it, if it is not possible to externally determine the serviceability, we take a multimeter and check its performance;
6. if the heating element is serviceable, then we clean it from scale, if not, we buy a new one;
7. insert the heating element into place;
8. connect wires and sensors;
9. we fix the heating element with a bolt;
10. put the back cover of the machine body.

Another of the characteristic breakdowns of a washing machine is an electrician, by which in this case we mean not only electrical wiring, but also sensors. The tachometer and pressure switch (water level sensor) often fail. Checking the functionality of the wiring is a process that requires patience and skill with a multimeter. In some cases, a visual inspection of the wires and terminals is enough to understand that they need to be stripped or replaced.

You can easily replace the water level sensor with your own hands. It is located under the top cover in the corner. It is necessary to disconnect the chips with wires coming from the electronic board and the pump, and also disconnect the pipe coming from the tank. And a new pressure switch is connected to the place of the faulty one. It is better to entrust the replacement of the tacho sensor to a specialist, because you will have to disassemble the washing machine and get to the electric motor.

With poor protection against power surges and lack of grounding in the electrical network, the control module of the washing machine may fail. This can lead to the fact that the machine does not turn on, the washing programs go astray, the machine freezes. The control board is quite expensive, so it is best to entrust diagnostics and repairs to the master. In some cases, it is possible to actually repair, rather than replace.

There are amateurs who are easily versed in electronics, if you consider yourself one of those, then go for it. But remember that a mistake can be costly.

So, the repair of Candy washing machines should begin with high-quality diagnostics, troubleshooting. Only after assessing the complexity of the work ahead and your capabilities, make a decision whether to do the repair yourself or it is better to entrust everything to the master. And there is nothing wrong with everyone doing their own thing.

Message SKORPION » Jun 05, 2009 15:27

Message alex641 » Jun 05, 2009 15:33

The fact of the matter is that I haven’t taken it apart yet and haven’t checked anything. I’ll get busy on the weekend. I just wanted to know about this machine, maybe it breaks like that for everyone (typical malfunction) and it’s connected with the module.

Message SKORPION » Jun 05, 2009 18:16

Message bun » Jun 05, 2009 21:15

Message alex641 » Jun 08, 2009 11:05

Greetings.
I checked it. The heating element is the norm, the pump is the norm, but the blocking of the hatch (probably) is the cause of the breakdown. It is not very convenient, the hand barely crawls through. white and one (thinner) green. Two whites, as I understand it, go to the solenoid and it rings. But green is not. I want to close the wires so that the door always shows closed, and cut one wire to the solenoid. door while the machine is running. This is a temporary solution. Need a diagram. How to get it?

Message wave2m » Jun 08, 2009 11:10

A gentleman is a person with whom you feel like a gentleman.
Repair of washing machines, dishwashers, sewing machines and boilers in Nizhny Novgorod

Message alex641 » Jun 09, 2009 13:18

Message SKORPION » Jun 09, 2009 16:15

Message alex641 » Jun 09, 2009 04:49 PM

Three wires are suitable for UBL, two white and green (thinner). I connected two white ones. Before checking the voltage when turned on. 220 appears on pin 3 (white) and 1 (green). There is no voltage on pin 2. That is. does not close. No result.

I rang all the periphery. Everything seems to be fine.

- pressure switch (rings, clicks, closes contacts - when you blow)
- engine (tachometer, stator-ringing)
– the pump is ringing
- buttons are ringing
Suspicion of the main board and there may be a program selection knob (it did not ring)
Yes, all the triacs rang on the board - everything seems to be fine (nothing burned out).

I continue to repair. I got to the blocking. the brains (microcircuits) are working. I changed the large triacs on the BTB-12 radiator (I don’t remember the number on the board) and the smaller T405 600. No result. There are even fewer Z0607 triacs, but they all ring normally. Dead end. Where to dig further?

Message SKORPION » Jun 15, 2009 17:00

There are even fewer triacs Z0607, but they all ring normally. Dead end. Where to dig further?

the most accurate check-replacement with a known good triac (thyristor) - can be called through the circuit

Kandy automatic washing machines are affordable and compact. A convenient control system and a wide selection of programs have made the technique popular among users.

However, over time, even reliable equipment can fail. Is it possible to repair the Kandy washing machine with my own hands? Quite!

You just need to find out what the error codes on the control panel mean, and then find and fix the problem.

Let's analyze the main problems that are typical for cars of this brand. We will also find out how you can repair Candy washing machines with your own hands.

You have noticed that the Kandy washing machine does not drain the water. The program may stop right in the middle of washing. Due to the fact that the water does not go away completely, you take out wet things after spinning.

What are the reasons for such a breakdown:

• The drain system is clogged. If debris gets into the drain filter or hose, a blockage will occur.It is necessary to check the pump and the pipe from the tank to the pump.
  
• Damage to the drain pump (pump). Often, small objects entering the pump cause it to break.

Why is the Candy washing machine not working? You habitually start the washer, but it does not respond to your actions. Let's look at the causes of this problem:

• Faulty network cable or extension cord. He could burn out, twist.
• Lack of voltage in the network, or it is not enough to start SM Kandy. This can happen if repairs are being carried out on your site, a powerful tool is involved, and so on.
• The contacts on the start button are oxidized, so the machine does not respond to turning on.
• Malfunction of the Kandy washing machine control module. The module is responsible for all programs in the CMA, so if it breaks down, the equipment fails to work.

If you notice a puddle of water under the washing machine, you need to urgently look for a leak.

Attention! Do not step into the water, you may be electrocuted. If possible, disconnect the CM from the mains or turn off the electricity supply at the switchboard.

• Tray dispenser. If you do not periodically clean the tray, powder accumulates in it, which clogs the nozzle. As a result, leakage comes from the tray.
  
• Drain pipe of the Candy washing machine. If it is damaged, water flows out through the bottom of the CM.
  
• Rubber cuff of the hatch. With prolonged use, the cuff could leak and lose tightness. Or it is damaged by small objects during washing.
  

The washing machine does not start the washing process or washes things in cold water. The reason for this is a malfunction of the heating element (heater). Basically, the element fails due to scale or damaged contacts.

Wear of bearings, oil seals, motor brushes leads to various malfunctions in the Kandy washing machine. For example, you may notice a knock and rumble when the washing machine is running, the drum stops rotating.

These include problems with closing the hatch door, a broken wiring between the parts and the control module, a malfunction of the control board of the Candy washing machine.

How to figure out what kind of breakdown happened to your car? Error codes will help you.

Thanks to the self-diagnosis system, a malfunction code is displayed on the Kandy washing machine display. After decrypting it, the user understands which part needs to be checked. So it becomes possible to independently repair Candy washing machines.

Depending on the type of model, the SM can manifest the error in different ways:

• Models like Activa with electronic controls show an error on the display.
• Models Candy Aquamatic (Kandy Aquamatic), signal a problem by blinking the lower light on the left. The number of flashes after a pause means the error code.

For washing machines Candy Holiday, Aquamatic, Activa and other models, the following error codes are typical: E01, E02, E03, E04, E05, E09.

Italian Candy washing machines are popular among consumers due to their good quality-price ratio. Despite excellent performance and reliability, cars sometimes break down. It always happens suddenly.

But do not worry too much, most of the breakdowns can be solved independently. Specialists from the Kandy service center are sure that many errors occur due to incorrect handling.

Specialists from the Kandy service center are sure that many errors occur due to incorrect handling. By the way, I recommend contacting EuroBytService if you need a really high-quality and fast repair of a washing machine of this brand.

It is good if the machine is equipped with a self-diagnosis function. Then the built-in controller itself will determine what the malfunction is and report this with an alphanumeric code on the display.

Frequent malfunctions include:

• The machine does not turn on.
• There is water in the drum.
• The water does not heat up.
• There is no water drain or it is not collected at all.
• During operation, an incomprehensible noise or strong vibration is heard.
• Failure of the electronic module. With this problem, the machine will not work, even if it is plugged in, the programs are not configured, the indicators flash randomly.

candy machine won't turn on

What should be done in this case?

1. Try pulling the plug out of the outlet and plugging it back in. Now you can try turning on the power button.
2. Point 1 did not help? Maybe the socket is not working? Try plugging another electrical appliance into it.
3. The cause of the breakdown may be the oxidation of contacts or burnout in the power button. You can check this with a tester. If a problem is found, the part is replaced with a new one.

The reason for the lack of warm or hot water during the washing process lies in the malfunction of the heating element. In this case, the self-diagnosis function will inform the user about the E05 error or blink the indicator 16 times after 5 seconds.

There are many reasons why a heating element fails. The most common are wear or a thick layer of scale on the heating element due to hard water.

How to check its performance and, if necessary, repair the candy washing machine with your own hands?

1. The back wall of the washing machine is removed.
2. Below you will see the shank of the heater with two wires.
3. Using a multimeter, you need to determine the resistance of the device. If it is 20-30 ohms, then it is in working condition.
4. If the heating element is faulty, you need to get it. To do this, the bolt between the wires is unscrewed, and the part is pulled out of the machine. The heating element can stick, then it is difficult to get it without the help of a rubber mallet.
5. When installing a new heating element, the hole must first be cleaned of scale.
6. The performance of the heating element is checked by turning on the machine in heating mode.

Another reason why water may not be heated is a breakdown of the temperature sensor. In this case, the machine gives an error of 05 or 5 blinks.