Candy holiday 80 DIY repair

Details: candy holiday 80 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Candy Holiday80 worked for about seven years, the bearings were noisy four months ago, and yesterday the drum was dead.
I disassembled, took out the bearings, and the question arises - is it worth repairing at all. The condition seems to be nothing, only along the shaft under the inner bearing corrosion has gone. Is it possible to do this - is it worth it? In general, for the entire service life, this is the second breakdown
(the first was - heating element)
Professionals, tell me, how much does it come out after repair? I myself am not on this business - I am repairing the KKM.
Thanks in advance.

The answer is: If you correctly replace the bearings, then perhaps it will go away for another 30 years, provided it is used no more than 1 time per month.

For the price of two bearings and an oil seal you can't buy a new one, probably.

An old woman with a stainless steel tank works decently, although changing bearings is not a pleasant one, but it's worth it. I myself use a similar Zerowatt, I plowed for 10 years,

changed the heating element and the plastic handle of the hatch door, the bearings are still high.

fed, this is not an hour X33 works that long
Besides that the respected one described in such detail Alexzz, there seems to be nothing to add
please pay attention to two things
there are bearings with different accuracy classes, there is CKF and there is China, there is the USSR

I highly do not recommend the cheap stuff yourself, then you will regret it
if the nest is a little weakened, you can safely use autochemistry (in particular Loktide) there are a lot of mixtures, but I work a beast
a separate word about lubrication - generally accepted ones can not be used in any case,

SergeySM, Zerowatt Lady Tropic C42X, Alexzz here I agree with you myself for them I take the dear one that the cap with bearings is glued to the tank, I remember my first time talking with these models, iodine and bandage were very popular then.

Italian Candy washing machines are popular among consumers due to their good quality / price ratio. Despite the excellent performance and reliability, the cars sometimes break down. It always happens suddenly.

But do not be very upset, most of the breakdowns can be solved on your own. Experts from the Kandy service center are sure that many errors occur due to incorrect handling.

Video (click to play).

Experts from the Kandy service center are sure that many errors occur due to incorrect handling. By the way, I recommend contacting EuroBytService if you need a really high-quality and quick repair of a washing machine of this brand.

It is good if the machine is equipped with a self-diagnosis function. Then the built-in controller itself will determine what the malfunction is and will report it to the display with an alphanumeric code.

Common faults include:

The machine does not start.
There is water in the drum.
The water does not heat up.
There is no drainage of water or it is not collected at all.
An incomprehensible noise or strong vibration is heard during operation.
Failure of the electronic module. With this problem, the machine will not work, even if it is connected to the network, the programs are not configured, the indicators blink chaotically.

The sandy machine does not turn on

What should be done in this case?

Try unplugging and reinserting. Now you can try turning on the power button.
Didn't point 1 help? Maybe the socket is not working? Try plugging another electrical appliance into it.
The cause of a breakdown may be oxidation of contacts or burnout in the power button. You can check this with a tester. If a problem is identified, the part is changed to a new one.

The reason for the absence of warm or hot water during washing lies in a malfunction of the heating element. In this case, the self-diagnostic function will inform the user about the E05 error or blink the indicator 16 times after 5 seconds.

There are many reasons for the breakdown of the heating element.The most common is wear or a thick layer of scale on the heating element due to hard water.

How to check its performance and, if necessary, repair the candy washing machine with your own hands?

The back wall of the washing machine is removed.
The heater shank with two wires will be visible at the bottom.
Using a multimeter, you need to determine the resistance of the device. If it is 20-30 ohms, then it is in working order.
If the ten is defective, you need to get it. To do this, unscrew the bolt between the wires, and the part is pulled out of the machine. Teng can get stuck, then it is difficult to reach it without the help of a rubber mallet.
When installing a new heating element, the hole must first be descaled.
The operability of the heating element is checked by turning the machine into heating mode.

Another reason why the water may not heat up is the breakdown of the temperature sensor. In this case, the machine generates error 05 or 5 flashes.

Door malfunction

A breakdown of the hatch locking device is indicated by the E01 code or the indicator blinks only 1 time. The reason may be

electronics, then it is advisable to use qualified help, or try to repair the door of the candy washing machine yourself.

To dismantle the lock, you will need to remove the hatch seal. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry on the clamp holding it. After removing the elastic, the two screws that secure the lock are unscrewed. The part changes and the machine is assembled in reverse order.

Drainage problem

In this case, the machine cannot drain the used water and displays the message E03 or flashes the indicators three times. What can be done?

Remove the front panel at the bottom.
Find the filter and substitute a low container, unscrew it counterclockwise.
Clean and rinse with water.
The filter is attached to the tank with a pipe. It also needs to be checked, since it is often clogged with various deposits. This can be done with a screwdriver. But, carefully without damaging the pipe.
Now turn on the machine to drain mode and see if the pump impeller turns. You will see it through the filter hole - this is a part with blades. Hair, threads, wool are often wound around the impeller. If it is spinning, the pump is working. If it rotates, but at the same time the pump hums strongly and the impeller itself is shaking, then the problem is in it and jamming occurs due to its looseness. Here you will have to change the pump. Access to the pump of the Kandy washing machine is open through the bottom or pallet, which can be easily removed.

The inlet hose also needs to be cleaned. To do this, it is detached and cleaned with a cable with a brush.

An inlet filter is installed on it, in which sand and rust are often found. The problem in this part is accompanied by the highlighted error E02 on the display or two flashes of the indicators.

The pressure switch located under the top cover may fail.

This sensor stops functioning if the tube attached to it becomes clogged.

After cleaning it from dirt, blow it. If you hear a click, the device is in working order.

Bearing failure

If the bearings are broken or worn out, the machine emits a loud hum during operation. To get to them in the candy washing machine, you need to remove the top cover and pull out the tank. Kandy machines are compact, so the elements inside the equipment are located tightly to each other.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Hoses are connected to the tank, which must be all disconnected.
The powder receptacle is pulled out.
The counterweight is unscrewed.
The belt is removed from the drum pulley.
The wires are detached from the heating element.
The engine gets out along the guides. All wires coming from it are pre-disconnected.
The hatch is removed. For this, screws are unscrewed under the cuff, and the fixing clamp is pushed off with a screwdriver.
The tank is disassembled into 2 parts.
The pulley is removed from the drum shaft.
The bearing is knocked out by light tapping. You can't hit the shaft! For these purposes, a wooden block is used.

11.The drum bearing is also knocked out.

New bearings are installed in place of old ones using a washer, nuts and a rod.

These instructions apply to machines with a split tank. Some models have one-piece tanks, then the process becomes much more complicated and it becomes problematic to replace bearings at home.

It is easier to repair the candy aquamatic washing machine, as it is equipped with a self-diagnosis system. To decipher the error code, you need to pay attention to the left indicator. After reading the instructions and finding out how many flashes are characteristic of a certain error code, you can repair the car with your own hands.

– Code 1 means the hatch is blocked. In this case, you need to check whether the hatch is tightly closed. This code also means there is a problem with the controller.

– Code 2 gives an error of water entering the tank - either it is not enough, or not at all. The reasons may be in the valve, controller, water tap, blockage.

– Code 3 characterizes problems with the drain. The pump, drain hose, or filter and siphon may have broken.

If there is water in the drum after the washing program, it first shuts off the water supply, the panel in the lower part of the case is removed and the water is drained using the drain pump filter. After that, you can understand the problem. The pump is being checked.

In order to easily disassemble the unit and not damage its structural elements, you will need:

pliers ordinary and elongated bent;
screwdrivers (cross and flat, small);
wrenches 19 and 8/9;
nippers.

Well, if there is a need for that, directly the consumable items themselves, which must be replaced.

First you need to dismantle the top panel. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the bolts that fix it and gradually raise it.
Removing the control panel. To do this, take out the container from under the detergent, unscrew the bolts for fastening the panel and move the left edge of it 90 degrees, then after a characteristic click, remove the panel completely.
Dismantling the service panel. Using a wooden or plastic crowbar, prying the edge of the panel, it is necessary to separate it from the body.
Removing the door and collar. First, you should loosen the clamp on the hose that comes from the pressure switch and then remove it completely.
Dismantling the tank. Loosen the tank mounting bolts, remove the collar and then the tank itself.

So, the car is ready to be repaired. All structural elements to be replaced are now available for dismantling and repair.

As with any other equipment, the washing machine should be assembled in the reverse order. All screws and clamps must be securely fastened.

When installing the cuff, make sure that its “^” sign coincides with the vertical axis of the machine, and the drain groove is on the opposite side.

Remember that minor repairs to the washing machine can only be carried out with basic technical knowledge and in compliance with safety rules. If you failed to repair the equipment, you can always seek professional help.

We look at the video do-it-yourself washing machine repair:

Due to the adequate ratio of quality and cost, Candy brand washing machines have found many fans among our consumers.But, as you know, there is no perfection in the world: wonderful Italian devices sometimes break down.Fortunately, most of the faults are repairable and it is quite possible that you yourself will cope with the problem after reading this article.So, Kandy is a washing machine: DIY repair.If the Kandy washing machine has a malfunction, you can try to do it yourself. Of all the many elements that make up the washing machine, probably only the frame and decorative trim cannot break. All others, with varying probability, may fail.The most common problems you have to solve are:

The machine cannot be turned on.

The water in the tank remains cold.

The hatch does not want to open.

Water is not collected well or is not drained.

There is increased vibration and unusual noise during machine operation.

The self-diagnosis function is of great help to the repairman.If something goes wrong, the built-in controller detects the fault itself and reports it in some way. If there is a display, such as in the ActivaSmart model, an alphanumeric code is displayed on it. Owners of machines without a display (Aquamatic model) can guess the nature of the malfunction by the number of flashes of the LED on the control panel.For repairs at an amateur level, you will need the simplest tools - keys, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.You can find out the condition of the electrical part using a multimeter and a phase indicator screwdriver.A special tool has to be used only when replacing bearings - they are pressed with an interference fit, so a puller will be needed.We strongly recommend that you take a photo of the wires connected to it before dismantling a unit, so that there are no connection problems during assembly.Well, now let's see how you can return this most useful device to working condition.In this regard, the repair manual contains the following recommendations:

Unplug the power cord from the socket, plug it in again and try to start the device again.

If the machine does not turn on again, check that the outlet is working with some other known working electrical appliance.

The most common reason for this failure is oxidation or burnout of the contacts on the power button. This element is checked using a special tester and, if necessary, replaced with a new one.

The reason for the "strike" may be a faulty control module (the indicator blinks 14, 15 or 18 times in a row). To repair or replace it, you need to contact a workshop. The reason that the washing machine began to treat its duties "with coolness", in most cases, is the breakdown of the heating element (error code "E05" or the indicator flashes 16 times every 5 seconds).It can simply burn out from the development of a resource, like a light bulb, or it can "order to live a long time" prematurely - because of a thick layer of scale.The heater is manipulated in the following order: Image - Candy holiday 80 DIY repair

Remove the back panel by unscrewing the corresponding screws.
Locate the heater shank protruding from the bottom of the tank (two wires are connected to it).
Determine the resistance of the heating element with a multimeter. If it is suitable, the device will show 20 - 30 Ohm, if it is burnt out - "infinity".
If the heating element is faulty, unscrew the nut holding it (between the contacts) and carefully remove it from the tank. If you get stuck, hit it gently a couple of times with a rubberized hammer (or with a regular one - on the attached wooden block).
Before installing a new heating element, the inner surface of the tank around the hole must be descaled.

To make sure that the heating element is working, it is enough to turn on the machine for heating and look at the electric meter - the speed of rotation of the disk or the frequency of blinking of the indicator should increase sharply.

A less common reason is the failure of the temperature sensor (E05 or 5 flashes). To check, first measure its resistance at room temperature, then after heating with hot water. In a non-working element, the resistance will remain constant.

Indesit washing machines have become widespread due to their affordable cost. The unit is of high quality, but any equipment is not insured against breakdowns. Washing machine Indesit - do-it-yourself malfunctions and repairs.

We will consider the main problems associated with connecting a washing machine here.

If there is not enough space in the bathroom, then the washing machine has to be installed in the kitchen. In this thread https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/740/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/kak-podklyuchit-stiralnuyu-mashinku-na-kuhne.html you will find tips for connecting the device for beginners and experienced.

If the door lock device breaks down, the E01 error code is displayed or the indicator blinks 1 time. The reason for the failure lies in the electronics, so it is better to invite a specialist.

If its appearance is not expected in the near future, the lock can be opened by yourself. This will be possible if the front cover is removed from the de-energized machine and slightly tilted back.

It happens that the lock itself requires replacement. To dismantle it, you first need to carefully remove the hatch seal by prying the clamp holding it with a screwdriver. After that, two screws that secure the lock will become available.

If the machine cannot get rid of the waste water (error "E03" or 3 blinks), it is most likely a clogged filter. A pump breakdown could also have occurred. Do the following:

After removing the front lower panel, locate the drain filter on the left side of the machine.
Place a container under the machine, unscrew the filter and free it from accumulated dirt.
Also inspect the tank connection to which the filter is attached. It is often clogged with muddy deposits, which must be carefully removed with a screwdriver.
After plugging in the machine, start it in drain mode and look at the pump impeller (you can see it through the hole in the filter plug). If the pump is working properly, it will rotate. It happens that the impeller rotates, but the operation of the pump is accompanied by a strong hum, and when the impeller is swinging from side to side in the direction perpendicular to the axis (the machine, of course, must be turned off), you can feel that it is very loose. In this case, the impeller can jam from time to time, which is the cause of the problems with the drain. Such a pump must be replaced, for which the rear wall will have to be removed.

It will also be helpful to clean the inlet filter, for which you need to disconnect the inlet hose. It is also often clogged with sand and rust, as a result of which water begins to flow into the machine very slowly (error "E02" or 2 blinks).

The reason for the lack of a normal drain can also be a malfunction of the level sensor, also called a pressure switch (located under the top cover). If the tube attached to it becomes clogged with dirt, the sensor will not function. After removing the dirt, you can check the performance of the pressure switch by blowing into the tube. A working device should respond with a click.

If the machine starts to work with a loud hum, it is most likely that one of the bearings needs to be replaced. To do this, you need to remove the tank, which is done through the top in Candy machines. In some models, the tank is one-piece and needs to be cut and welded to replace the bearings. This can only be done correctly in the workshop. At home, replacement of bearings is possible only for machines with a collecting tank. To get to it, you need to remove the panels - top and back.

It is also better to dismantle the front panel so as not to accidentally scratch it when removing the tank.

Before you get the tank, you need to do the following:

disconnect all the hoses connected to it (the clamps are unclenched with pliers);
remove the powder distribution hopper;
unscrew the counterweight;
remove the belt from the drum pulley;
disconnect the wires from the heating element;
unscrewing the bolts and disconnecting the wires, remove the engine (extends along the guides);
remove the hatch by unscrewing the screws under the sealing collar (the clamp fixing the collar is pushed off with a screwdriver).

Having disassembled the tank into two parts, the pulley is removed from the drum shaft, and then by careful knocking the shaft is knocked out of the bearing. You cannot hit directly on the shaft - you need to put a wooden block. Next, you need to knock the bearing out of the tank with careful uniform blows around the perimeter.

The new bearing is installed in place using a simple device consisting of a pressure washer, a threaded rod and a pair of nuts.One nut is screwed onto the rod from one side - it will press on the pressure washer pressing the bearing. The second nut is screwed onto the rod from the other side (abuts against the tank) - it must be rotated slowly.

In small apartments, tenants prefer to save as much time as possible on everything. Let's consider how to choose a compact washing machine under the bathroom sink and how to install it.

This information will help you decide on the choice of a kitchen faucet. Characteristics of devices by manufacturer, material and mechanics.

Washing machines from the Italian manufacturer Kandy have found their niche in the Russian market. These machines are distinguished by their small size and reasonable price. However, their quality is such that repair of Candy washing machines is carried out by masters much more often than Bosch or LG. What are the typical malfunctions, and is it possible to fix them with your own hands - this will be the further story.

Any washing machine can break down. The reasons may be different, banal or, on the contrary, too serious, which will lead to expensive equipment repairs. Professional diagnostics will help to determine exactly what is broken. But in most cases, such diagnostics can be carried out independently, the main thing is to listen well, take a closer look, and have tools at hand.

What goes wrong in Kandy typewriters most often? The wizards note the following malfunctions:

blockage of the drain system or its malfunction. If a blockage occurs, the machine does not drain the water and stops after the wash cycle, the laundry is not wrung out. If the tightness of the connection of the nozzles, hose or drain pump is broken, then water may leak during spinning. In addition, a characteristic hum during draining of water indicates a malfunction of the drain system, most often this is due to a blockage of the pump.
wear of the moving parts of the washing machine. Parts that are subjected to more stress during washing are subject to faster wear than those that do not. These elements include oil seals, bearings, shock absorbers, engine.

The average service life of bearings is about 7 years; they are replaced together with the replacement of the oil seals.

The malfunction of these parts manifests itself as follows: strong vibration of the machine during spinning, knocking or rattling of the drum even when the machine is not working, the drum stops, the machine does not start for washing after filling with water.

malfunction of the heating element. This breakdown often occurs with some Kandy washing machine models. It manifests itself in the fact that the machine either carries out the washing process in cold water, or does not start washing at all.

malfunction of electronics and electrics. Electrical wires and their connections with sensors can cause the machine to stop washing at some point. Most often, terminals are oxidized due to high humidity. But there are also wire burnouts due to high load. In case of power surges, the sensors and the control module of the machine may fail. This affects her work in different ways.Problems in draining and collecting water indicate a breakdown of the pressure switch, problems with spinning may indicate a tachometer.

A blockage in the drain system is a malfunction that can be easily eliminated by hand. In service centers, it belongs to the first category of complexity. A similar problem usually arises in cases where the rules for the operation and care of the washing machine are not followed. Cleaning the drain system begins with cleaning the drain filter.

In Kandy machines, the drain filter is located at the bottom, on the left behind a small door or behind the bottom panel. To clean it, you need to carefully unscrew it counterclockwise and pull it towards you. Be sure to use a large cloth to prevent any remaining water in the tank from spilling out onto the floor.After removing the filter, rinse it in water and remove lint and other dirt, then slide it back into place.

To clean the hose, drain and pump, you need to lift the machine or lay it on its side. Before doing this, be sure to turn off the power supply, as well as the drain hose from the sewer. You can get to the pump in the Kandy machine through the bottom, which is either missing or there is a pallet. It can be easily unscrewed.

So, we loosen the clamps and disconnect the pipe and hose. We rinse the branch pipe in water and wipe it with a dry cloth. We clean the hose with a cable with a brush and inspect for damage. Next, we disconnect the sensors from the drain pump, unscrew the self-tapping screws holding the pump, and take it out. In the pump, you need to inspect the impeller, which is located under the cover.

Pile, hair, wool can be wound on it, so we clean everything carefully. Using a multimeter, we check its performance. If the pump burns out, then in this case it is better to replace it with a new one; repair in this case is not advisable.

After cleaning, we assemble the machine and run the wash in idle mode.

A malfunction in the moving parts of the washing machine is a major repair. Replacement of motor brushes, bearings, shock absorbers belongs to the third category of complexity. The difficulty in working with bearings lies in the fact that the sleeve on which they are fitted is thermally pressed, besides, the bearings themselves are not easy to get. But in general, the whole algorithm for replacing bearings in all machines is similar.

The silent operation of the washing machine is ensured by shock absorbers. And if one day you hear a roar, then, most likely, the problem is precisely in the shock absorbers, in rare cases in loose counterweights. It is not worth operating a machine with faulty shock absorbers, because this can lead to even more complex breakdowns. It is best to delegate their replacement to the master, but if you wish, if you have time and space to disassemble the machine, you can do this work yourself, step-by-step instructions that will allow you to do the work are in the article on replacing shock absorbers and dampers.

With prolonged use of the washing machine, the heating element breaks down. The reason may be hard water, which is deposited on the surface of the heating element in the form of a plaque.... In the event of a malfunction, an error code will appear on the display. The heating element is located behind the rear wall of the machine body under the tank. The algorithm for replacing the heating element is simple:

unscrew the back wall;
we unscrew the bolt holding the heating element;
we disconnect the sensors from the heating element, after taking a photo of their correct connection;
using a flat screwdriver, carefully pull out the heating element towards us;
we inspect it, if outwardly it is not possible to determine the serviceability, we take a multimeter and check its performance;
if the heating element is serviceable, then we clean it from scale, if not, we buy a new one;
insert the heating element into place;
we connect wires and sensors;
we fix the heating element with a bolt;
we put the back cover of the machine body.

Another of the typical breakdowns of a washing machine is an electrician, by which in this case we mean not only electrical wiring, but also sensors. The tachometer and pressure switch (water level sensor) fail more often. Checking that the wiring is working is a process that requires patience and skill in using a multimeter. In some cases, a visual inspection of the wires and terminals is enough to understand that they need to be stripped or replaced.

You can easily replace the water level sensor with your own hands. It is located under the top cover in the corner. It is necessary to disconnect the chips with the wires coming from the electronic board and the pump, and also disconnect the pipe coming from the tank. And in place of the faulty one, a new pressure switch is connected. It is better to entrust the replacement of the tachometer to a specialist, because you will have to disassemble the washing machine and get to the electric motor.

With poor protection against power surges and lack of grounding in the electrical network, the control module of the washing machine may fail. This can lead to the fact that the machine does not turn on, wash programs get lost, the machine "freezes". The control board is quite expensive, so it is best to entrust diagnostics and repairs to a master. In some cases, repair is actually possible, not replacement.

There are amateurs who are easily versed in electronics, if you consider yourself one of those, then go for it. But remember, mistakes can be costly.

So, the repair of Candy washing machines should begin with a high-quality diagnosis, determination of the malfunction. Only after assessing the complexity of the work ahead and your capabilities, make a decision whether to do the repair yourself or it is better to entrust everything to the master. And there is nothing wrong with everyone doing their own thing.

Signs of bearing destruction are increased noise during washing and spinning. In the event of the beginning of the destruction of the bearings, it is advisable not to delay the repair, otherwise it may break the drum shaft. Further repairs will be difficult.Parts are searched for using the sales code on the nameplate under the loading door.When repairing, the task is to get to the bearings. The bearings are pressed into the rear power tank flange.We begin preliminary disassembly of the washing machine. Remove the top cover, rear wall, lower plinth (access to the drain filter under the lower plinth). We dismantle the handles and the front panel. The front wall of the washing machine body is not removable; it is attached to the side walls by contact welding.We dismantle the upper counterweight and disassemble the water distributor mechanism. Image - Candy holiday 80 DIY repair

We dismantle the dispenser hopper, the water supply valve, disconnect the dispenser pipes from the tank. Subsequently, the installation sites of the branch pipes on the tank must be re-sealed. The sore spot of Candy washing machines with a metal tank is leakage of pipes.

Carefully remove the hatch door seal, unscrew the hatch door lock.

We dismantle the upper support without disassembling the wiring diagram.

Place the washing machine face down.

We turn off the drum pulley (nut 19), dismantle the heating element, thermostats, disconnect the electrical wiring from the tank, remove the drain pipe from the pump.

We dismantle the electric motor. The right seat of the electric motor is made with the possibility of adjusting the position for tensioning the belt.

The washing machine is on the front side. Units, sensors and wiring have been dismantled from the tank. Next, we push the tank to the upper side of the CMA body and remove it.

Remove the lower counterweight.

Next, unscrew the tie bolts of the front and rear power units and dismantle the front power tank tie.

It is possible not to remove the front flange of the tank and not to take out the drum itself; it is quite enough to remove the rear power flange. The bearings and oil seal are located in the rear power flange.

We knock out the bearings, the oil seal.

We press the new bearings into the flange, clean and grind the drum journal and begin the preliminary assembly of the tank. We insert the axis (trunnion) of the drum into the bearings, push the trunnion into place. We combine the holes in the rear wall of the tank with the holes on the rear power flange and fix it with a heating element.

We put the front power coupler in place, tighten it with bolts, install the pulley in place.

We install in place the branch pipes on the sealant, having previously cleaned the installation places. Reinstall the lower counterweight.

We put the tank into place in the case on our suspension springs and put the washing machine with the front side down.

Next, you need to install the shock absorber shoes on the rails. To do this, it is most convenient to dismantle the springs of the shoes from the bottom of the body, install the shoes on the guides on the tank and then reinstall the springs.

We install the electric motor in place. We connect the drain pipe to the pump.

We install the heating element, temperature sensors, electrical wiring in place, adjust the belt tension.

Raise the washing machine vertically and install the front support.

We are finalizing the mechanism for opening the loading hatch door (the drawback is associated with the stretching of the cable jacket).

Assembling the powder dispenser, assembling and adjusting the water distributor mechanism.

We put in place the upper counterweight, door lock, door cuff, pressure switches, pressure switch tubes, steam outlet.

Install the front panel.

With a marker, we restore the digitization of the timer knob and put the knobs in place.

Video (click to play).

Next, we install the door, once again control the assembly, check the MCA in all modes, reinstall all the covers and the base. With a high probability, after such an operating time, in addition to replacing the bearings, it will be necessary to replace the drain pump and electric motor brushes.

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