Hall sensor Daewoo Nexia 8 valves DIY repair

Before removing the Hall sensor, it is recommended to apply a mark (scratch, mark with a marker) to the engine housing and distributor - this is done in order to restore the ignition mark after installing the Hall sensor.

Tags: removing the induction coil (hall sensor) on Nexia, repairing the hall sensor on Nexia, replacing the hall sensor on Nexia

[quote name = ”SerBelko”] Can you please tell me, according to this article, the replacement of the Hall sensor is carried out on the coil in the G15MF engine?
The hall sensor is installed in the distributor (distributor), and not on the coil

And then what about the coil of the A15MF engine?
what's wrong with her? if everything is in order, then do not touch her. your coil itself is directly connected to the candles, unlike the g15mf, there the spark from the coil first enters the distributor, and then further to the candles

With the launch, something is wrong with me. It starts terribly, the starter threshes for a long time, but when it grabs the troit, it doesn't grab it completely, the gas dash and then oklematsya.
Here I drip on the sly, what is the reason.

[quote name = ”SerBelko”] Can you please tell me, according to this article, the replacement of the Hall sensor is carried out on the coil in the G15MF engine?
The hall sensor is installed in the distributor (distributor), and not on the coil

And then what about the coil of the A15MF engine?
what's wrong with her? if everything is in order, then do not touch her. your coil itself is directly connected to the candles, unlike the g15mf, there the spark from the coil first enters the distributor, and then further to the candles

Can you please tell me, according to this article, the replacement of the Hall sensor is carried out on the coil in the G15MF engine?

But what about the A15MF engine coil then?
It looks like this for me:

I'm a newbie in this regard, for me everything is still dark))

Does this coil (see photo) have the same Hall sensor?

I advise you to take a spare spring plate holding the coil (it costs only 20 rubles, code: 01989282).
I couldn't take off mine normally today 🙁 I had to bend it. Somehow straightened, but still crooked 🙁

To mark where the distributor was, choose a marker that “erase“! Otherwise, my mark was erased 🙁 Now the ignition is a little knocked down: ((

The hall sensor or HX is one of the most important components of the ignition system of a modern car. Its slightest breakdown can lead to difficulties in the functioning of the motor. To eliminate errors during testing, it is important to be able to identify the symptoms of a hall sensor malfunction.

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The DH regulator is undoubtedly considered one of the most important components of an ignition distributor. Located near the distributor shaft, on which a magnetically conductive plate is fixed, which looks like a crown, it performs controlling functions.

The DX plate or curtain has the same number of slots as the cylinders in a car engine. Another important element of HX is a permanent magnet.

In order to better understand the principle of operation of the DH, it is recommended to pay attention to the scheme of the shaft. When it rotates, its plates alternately pass through the holes of the curtain in the HH. Thus, a pulse is generated which is supplied by means of a switch to the ignition coil. The latter, as you know, acts as a voltage converter. The low voltage current in the coil is converted to high voltage current and fed to the spark plugs.

The DH itself has three outputs or terminals, as experts also call them.One of the terminals is connected directly to the minus (ground), the second is a plus with a voltage of 6 V, and finally, the third is used to supply the converted pulse to the switch.

HH defects are manifested in different ways. And it does not mean at all that if the driver is experienced and versed in motor vehicles, he will be able to immediately identify the malfunctions. It is often necessary to analyze and check the signs for a long time before making sure of the unconditional failure of the sensor.

However, there are several overt symptoms that indicate HH problems. They should be considered:

• if the car engine does not start or it is difficult to start;
• if, in idle mode, the internal combustion engine operates jerkily and intermittently;
• if the engine stalls while driving;
• if the car jerks when driving at high rpm.

If one of these symptoms appears, it is recommended to question the HH and check it out. Of course, there are other types of HH-related malfunctions, but these 4 are the most common.

To make sure that the HH is working completely, you should carry out a diagnostic appointment. However, there are several options for testing, and each specialist uses either his favorite method, or the one that is most effective and easy in a particular situation.

The most common test option is to compare the readings of the tester with the factory readings. In other words, the multimeter is connected to the HX terminals, and the values ​​on the device are checked. As a rule, if the reading with the HX shutter open is approx. 0.4V, the sensor is working normally.

Another method is no less popular. It is more often used by car owners who do not carry measuring instruments with them. This method gives the most accurate readings. It is necessary to replace the DH installed in the car with a similar regulator. If the car behaves normally with the new sensor, the engine will not "freeze", then the diagnosis has been confirmed - the old HH is no longer valid.

Some experts recommend diagnosing DH using a simulator. Such a device, often made by hand, is connected to the ignition system. If the spark after this is supplied normally, but before that it was not there, the HH is faulty.

To easily replace DH, you just need to follow the instructions below:

• remove the cover from the distributor;
• crank the crankshaft until the pulley mark coincides with the timing cover mark;
• indicate the position of the distributor rotor (slider);
• dismantle the distributor using the appropriate tools;
• remove the pin securing the position of the slinger clutch (it will be possible to knock out with a hammer, and pull it out with pliers);
• dismantle both the clutch and the washer;
• remove the shaft from the distributor housing;
• de-energize the conclusions of the HH;
• unscrew the sensor, pull it out through the hole;
• put a new one, reassemble everything in reverse order.

Advice. To make the DH come out easily, you need to pull the regulator. This will create a hole through which the DH will exit.

SZ or the ignition system of a modern car with a hall sensor is checked using an indicator or multimeter in the following sequence:

• the voltage on the battery (battery) is checked, if it is, then the operation continues;
• the ignition coil is inspected by eye (if it is dirty, then everything is thoroughly cleaned, especially near the contacts).

A plus from the ignition switch, usually a blue wire, goes to one of the terminals of the coil. When the ignition is on, there must be voltage on the contact, otherwise there is no point in looking for damage in the hall sensor or other elements of the ignition system.

In this case, the DH itself is checked by the elimination method, using a simulator. It is a self-made copying device with a button and a 3-pin plug inserted into the distributor's place of the standard one (hall sensor).

The simulator device also has a wire that is connected to the battery from the back. The other end of the device with a block, respectively, will simulate the operation of a hall sensor.

• take a metal bar, make 4 threaded holes in it for the entrance of spark plugs and connect the bar to the mass of the car (any part of the car body);
• a candle is screwed into one of the holes and connected by an armored wire to the ignition coil (main wire).

In this manner, we excluded the operation of the ignition distributor (its high-voltage part). Now the high voltage from the coil is fed directly to the spark plug.

The homemade simulator is now connected to a harness that connects to the standard hall sensor located in the car's distributor.

• you can turn on the ignition switch;
• press the button of the homemade device (turn it on);
• if there is a spark on the spark plug, the rest of the ignition system without HX is fine.

It's time to test the switch's functionality. If it is located in the passenger compartment and it is not easy to get to it, then a simulating device is also used for testing - an ordinary lamp:

• the ignition switch turns off;
• the wire going to the switch is disconnected from the ignition coil (it is through this very wire that the switch controls the ignition coil);
• an ordinary lamp is connected to this very wire (preferably with a cartridge in order to exclude a short circuit);
• one wire from the lamp is connected, as it was written, to the coil, and the other to the plus of the battery;
• the ignition switch turns on;
• the work of the HH is imitated.

If, when simulating the operation of the sensor, the lamp blinks, there is no breakdown in the switch.

The lamp, as you might guess, played the role of a switch. Its flashing after each activation of the homemade device button means that the switch is controlling the coil. But, if the lamp only burned, or did not light up at all, it would be necessary to check the switch with the wires leading to the impulse already more thoroughly.

I would like to note one nuance that becomes a problem for novice auto electricians. They check the entire ignition system, ring the wires, diagnose HH and spark plugs, but forget about such a simple thing as mechanical failure.

For example, if the timing belt breaks, the connection between the camshaft and the crankshaft will be lost. This means that the camshaft will not rotate, and with it the distributor shaft. Therefore, the hall sensor and the entire ignition system are not activated.

To check whether the distributor drive rotates or not, remove the distributor cover and see. If, after rotating the starter, the distributor shaft does not rotate, the timing belt is torn off or some other mechanical failure has occurred.

Now you know how to troubleshoot HH. Going on a long journey, be sure to take a tester, a spare hall sensor or a homemade device similar to the work of a DH.

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How it was possible to diagnose and, in the end, defeat the insidious defect, says the head of the corporate technical center in Kazan.

The “start-won't start” problem has probably existed since the invention of the automobile.

With the advent of reliable and relatively inexpensive “Nexia” cars from Uzbekistan, the owners of “Zhiguli” and “Samar” who moved to them finally felt like people, but at the same time they realized that their “Zhiguli” experience was of little use for a new car. And if something happens, then there is only one road - to the car service.

The first time we encountered an Uzbek “Nexia”, which sometimes refused to start, in the fall of 1997. According to the owner (precisely “from the words”, since it happened much later to see a car that does not start the engine), the car put it in an awkward position a couple of times, but after a few minutes (obviously, while the owner was wiping the headlights, glass and kicking wheels) started up as if nothing had happened. That case was not an isolated one.In cars suffering from a similar ailment, the engine could refuse to start at any time - after a long parking or after a short one, in bad weather or good, in the garage or in the fresh air. Just as unexpectedly, he could quit being a fool and work for a week, a month normally, and then it all started again. Sometimes, "Nexia" was dragged to us in tow, the master got behind the wheel, and. the engine was started, as they say, with a half kick! This problem drove the owners to white heat, they began to be afraid of their cars.

In a word, we were dealing with a typical “floating” defect - one of those that can make a car service specialist doubt the correct choice of profession. The rich (by that time three years) experience of working with Daewoo cars from Korea could not help - they did not have such a defect, they always started.

It was necessary to repair such cars (how can you fix a working car?), Guided by the principle that “electronics is the science of contacts”, that is, disconnecting and connecting electrical connectors, cleaning, blowing. Sometimes it helped, more often it didn't. But statistics, the greatest of the sciences, did its job - the general picture began to emerge. The engine of defective cars was not started due to the absence of a spark on the ignition coil, and a “plus” was supplied to it, that is, no pulses were formed in the primary winding. If you try to start the engine “from the pusher” at this moment, it will start instantly. These two factors were a necessary and sufficient condition for the application of the subsequent recommendations. But first, a little theory.

A schematic diagram of the "Nexia" ignition system is shown in the figure. The valve housing contains a magnetoelectric pulse sensor (not to be confused with a Hall sensor) and an electronic module (switch, if you like). The impulse sensor consists of a magnetized rotor, made integral with the distributor shaft, and a stator, which includes two pairs of poles and an induction coil, in which an electromotive force (EMF) is induced with a frequency of 8 Hz in the starting mode and an amplitude of about 2 V. these pulses are rectangular with an amplitude of 12 V and feeds them into the primary winding of the ignition coil. After starting the engine, the electronic control unit (ECU) is also switched on in the ignition system, which controls the change in the ignition timing depending on the engine operating modes.

It was most logical to assume that the cause of all the troubles is precisely in the module. After all, the word “switchboard”, pronounced with appropriate epithets in the company of motorists, immediately generates sympathetic head nods and a sea of ​​sad memories. However, replacing switches on problem cars with a promise to return the money if the defect does not disappear, led to a refund and counter questions: well, and then what? But really - what if the electronic module, the ignition coil, and the ECU are checked and work normally, what remains? Is it a sensor? No, I don't even want to think about him, because he is primitive to the limit. In it, the only part that can fail is an induction coil, and even that one is a plastic "spool" with a copper wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm wound around it. The “Nexia” car repair manual prescribes to measure its resistance to test the coil's performance, and if it is within 500-1500 Ohm, then everything is in order. We measured this resistance in dozens of coils, and it was always in the range of 750-800 ohms.

His Majesty Chance helped to put everything in its place. After all, we came across a car that had a necessary and sufficient sign of a malfunction, but it did not start from the starter at all! Investigating this car, they found that the amplitude of the pulses at the contacts of the induction coil is very small (about 0.2 V), which is clearly not enough for the normal operation of the electronic module. (By the way, the resistance of this coil was 750 ohms too!)

I had to remember the section “Electromagnetic induction” from school and university physics courses: the induction EMF of a coil with a wire is directly proportional to the rate of change of the magnetic flux (in our case, the speed of rotation of the engine crankshaft at start-up) and the number of turns of the coil. Counting turns is a rather troublesome business, it is much easier to estimate their number by measuring the inductance of the coil. Our measurements of the inductance of the latter in defective cars showed that this parameter is 10-15% lower than that of the obviously suitable ones, and for the Nexia coil, which did not start at all (God bless her "health"), it is 26 %. It also follows that when starting the engine must rotate as quickly as possible. This fact also explains why a car with a substandard coil is launched “from the pusher” - after all, the engine speed in this case increases significantly. Therefore, the condition of the battery, the connection of the power wires, the appropriate oil in the engine in winter are all very important.

In practice, we have replaced induction coils in about fifty cars (3-4% of those sold by our company). None of the owners of these machines have contacted us again with this defect.

Now the traditional question: who is to blame? We do not have reliable information on this, but I think that with an increase in the program for the production of components for the UzDau plant in Uzbekistan, at some of the Daewoo Motor allied enterprises, the technological process of manufacturing induction coils could be disrupted. In combination with other unfavorable factors, this made the owners of problem cars, and us along with them, pretty worried. My assumption is confirmed by the fact that with the "Nexia" from Korea and "Daewoo-Espero", which have exactly the same ignition system, there are no such problems.

Of course, faced with this extraordinary phenomenon for the first time, we turned to the car manufacturer for help. And we got something like this answer: “We did not have the described cases, try to change the electronic module”. After which it became clear in whose hands the salvation of the drowning. Although in fairness it must be said, lately this defect has become less and less common. Obviously, something has changed for the better.

Of course, a car service is not a research institute; it is not its business to formulate problems and look for ways to solve them. But a civilized corporate technical center is for many car owners the last resort where they can be helped. Our principle is not to dismiss a difficult problem, but to think, experiment and solve it.

Under the stator poles is an induction coil, the culprit of the hassle.

The accuracy of setting the ignition timing in the Daewoo Nexia engine depends almost entirely on the operation of the engine in any mode. If you make a millimeter mistake, the engine will not be able to idle correctly, start normally and use fuel sparingly. Setting the ignition on the Nexia is quite simple, the main thing is to clearly follow the instructions.

The Daewoo Nexia ignition system has evolved as the engine has improved. In fact, the "bottom" of the engine remained unchanged - the crankshaft, cylinder block, crank mechanism and cylinder-piston group. Only the cylinder head has changed, two camshafts have appeared in it. The 8-valve engine had a contactless ignition system with a distributor-distributor, a switch and an ignition coil. The ignition timing was adjusted by turning the distributor in one direction or the other.

A more recent 16-valve engine has received a contactless electronic ignition system that does not require manual adjustment.

There is no distributor in the design, high voltage current is generated by two coils and distributed by a two-channel switch, which in turn is controlled by an electronic engine control unit. The synchronization of the ignition moment and the injection moment occurs due to the precise setting of the crankshaft and camshafts according to the marks. The ignition timing is set by the ECU according to the sensor data.

It is quite simple to set the ignition on the eight-valve.You can even do without a stroboscope using only a standard tool. The order of work is as follows:

1. We install the car on a level surface, put anti-rollbacks under the rear wheels.
2. Raise the front end with a jack and turn on the 4th gear.
3. We open the hood and look for a mark on the crankshaft pulley and on the timing belt cover.

We combine the marks on the pulley and on the timing belt cover.

Remove the distributor cover and slider.

Having loosened the distributor mounting bolt with a 13 key, we combine the projections of the magnetic rotor with the projections of the stator.

We check the correctness of the installation in progress. In the event that the engine behaves inadequately (sluggish acceleration, high fuel consumption), check the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys and make sure that the timing belt is installed correctly. Successful work and sunny roads to all!