Hall sensor in a washing machine lg DIY repair

Greetings, friend reading this scribble)) A week ago I was not too lazy to rake and fix my washing machine, and now I will not be too lazy to describe the repair in detail, so that those who got into a similar situation do not mentally figure out where to get 20,000 rubles to buy a new one, and having adopted this information, they repaired their own, without spending a penny on it.

This machine washed for 3 years, after which it stopped without completing the cycle, highlighting an error about the motor. We tried to disconnect from the network and start again - again it comes to the spin mode and hangs. That is, the electric motor rotates during washing and rinsing, but when it is required to gain momentum, it hopelessly stalls.

After reading and taking a break from the forums and videos, I came to the conclusion about a faulty motor rotation sensor, the so-called “tachometer”. After all, if the reason is the engine itself or the electronics, it is unlikely that preliminary cycles would be chased. But these are all assumptions.

This washing machine is called the Whirlpool AWE 7515/1 top-loading model. Not so much that there was a fan of such configurations, just in our cramped apartments every centimeter is registered 🙂

Disassembly is usual - the right cover is screwed, the left one, and the panel with the control unit is on top of the latches.

It is not a problem to disassemble it - a child can cope with it. I was surprised by the still quite clean state, I expected to see dust, darkened details.

Along the way, a thought came to me: could the malfunction be caused by an overload of the motor, since we usually pile laundry with a haystack, not at all worrying about the 5.5 kilo limit? To check, I took off the pulley (I almost called it "belt") and turned on the squeeze mode again - the same picture. Now we are looking for this same tachometer, for which we need to remove the engine block by disconnecting the loop and unscrewing just one powerful screw.

At the end of the electric motor, under a metal cover, the sought-for part is located. We pick it out with a thin screwdriver or knife and take it out. Fortunately, it is not pressed into the body and gives in easily.

What is this rotation sensor? A plastic ring with a wire spool inside, tacked on the outside with metal clamps. From it there are 2 wires to the motor connector.

Everywhere they wrote that the resistance of the tachometer should be 60-500 Ohm (for different models and versions). My measurements showed 1 megaohm, which made me think.

Now comes the fun part. The theory suggests that you just need to order and buy another similar one, but practice made it clear that the number does not work. Simple paths are only in fairy tales. There are a dozen of washing machine manufacturers. And each has a couple of dozen more models (and maybe all 100). And each has its own type of motor, which means a tachometer. There was something on sale, but it was not right. As a specialist from a large store selling spare parts for SMA repair told me on the phone: “It is very difficult to choose a tachometer exactly in size, as it will either hang out, or it will not fit, or the impulses will go such that the electronics will not perceive them as expected”.

In short, I took it, and I made out the one that was there. I just broke the outer plastic ring with pliers, exposing the spool on the mandrel. And I immediately noticed a break - only 20 turns had to be wound on the top layer.

I didn't even bother to push it - I soldered, stripping, the wires of 0.1 mm to the contact petal, and somehow sticking the fragments of the case in place, I filled them with hot glue. The result is such a clumsy thing, but why not experience it?

I didn't even bother to screw the electric motor into place and hook the belt - but what is it, the pulley of course! Plugged in the connector and started the push-up program.and everything worked as it should!

Incredibly pleased with the saving of money for a new typewriter, and proud in front of his once again confirmed knowledge and skills, he put everything in place and put the SMA in a corner. Test run with a pair of T-shirts - no problem. That's it, you can go wash your hands!

Washing machine LG WD 10340ND with direct drive at the age of 5 years.

The following kind of motor problem:
Sometimes the motor washes and squeezes out without problems, but sometimes it twitches and starts to whistle (characteristic high-frequency sound).

Found a malfunction of the following kind:

the drum bearings barked and, accordingly, the oil seal (the large bearing crumbled and a small leak appeared, water got into the DH 6501KW2001A SB 041123. The main board and the DH are filled with silicone.), replaced the small one with imported 6205, and the large 206 (domestic), also replaced the oil seal. , but the malfunction has not disappeared - everything remains as before, it turns, it does not turn.
The connectors were checked everything is OK, the motor has a live resistance between the windings of 8 ohms

Please tell me what could be the reason.

Have you noticed that the laundry does not spin well? Then it's time to find out what a tachogenerator is in a washing machine, how it works and what to do if it is faulty. After all, it is his task - to determine and increase the speed of rotation of the engine.

The device is also called a Hall sensor after the inventor.

The Hall sensor is a small coil. When the motor rotates, a voltage is generated inside the coil under the influence of a magnet, depending on the speed of the electric motor, it changes. By measuring the voltage, the sensor sends a message to the main module.

Where is the tachometer located in the washing machine? Of course, on the shaft of the electric motor - this allows it to effectively perform the specified functions.

How can a simple user understand that there is a malfunction with the Hall sensor? External signs:

1. The machine dramatically changes the drum rotation speed.
2. Insufficient number of revolutions for a high-quality spin of the laundry.
3. During washing, the drum rotates faster than expected.

But before diagnosing a breakdown, you need to know how to check a tachogenerator in a washing machine. To do this, you will have to remove the CMA engine, so first we will exclude more likely problems:

• Look at the control panel. Find the spin button there and check if it has fuse, which caused a similar malfunction.
• Reboot the washer. Disconnect it from the network for 15-20 minutes, then turn it on. If nothing has changed, then you need to check the tachogenerator.

1. Disconnect the machine from the mains and communications.
2. Unscrew all screws around the rear panel.
3. Remove it and set it aside.
4. Now remove the drive belt.
5. Pull it towards you while rotating the pulley.

Start dismantling the electric motor:

• Mark the wires leading to the motor to make a good connection later.

Now inspect the Hall sensor in the washing machine: as a result of strong vibrations, its fastening could loosen, or the contacts could come off. In this case, you just need to restore the connections and tighten the fastening bolt.

If everything is in order, you need to check the resistance of the tachogenerator of the washing machine. There are two ways to do this:

1. Set the tester to resistance measurement mode. Unplug the wire connectors and move them away from the sensor contacts. Place the tester probes on the contacts and check the resistance value. With normal operation, the resistance of the tachometer should be in the region of 60-70 Ohm.
2. Now switch the tester to measure voltage. You need to understand whether the device is producing current or not. If it does, then the tachogenerator is working properly.
   To check, attach the test leads to the sensor contacts, while rotating the motor with your hand. If the values ​​change (approximately 0.2 Volts), then the part is working.

Be sure to check the integrity of the wiring, since the tachogenerator itself is rarely damaged.Perhaps the cause of the malfunction is in the control board - in this case, it is better to contact the service center.

Now you know what a tachometer is. For do-it-yourself diagnostics, we advise you to watch a video on the topic:

The Korean company LG makes great direct drive washing machines. This technology really significantly increases the service life of the engine and moving elements. However, these machines are also characterized by specific malfunctions, noted by the specialists of the service centers as the most common. If you are the owner of an LG washing machine, then in 80% of cases you will have to deal with the malfunctions discussed in this article.

Experts from the world's leading service centers note the relatively high reliability of LG washing machines. The most "tenacious" unit of this machine is considered to be the engine, which breaks down only in one case out of 500 calls to service centers, and then in half of the cases, the cause of the module malfunction is a factory defect. Moving elements are also considered to be quite reliable, except for bearings, they are repaired more often.

What units of the LG washing machine break down most often? Let's list them:

• a heating element;
• pressure switch;
• bearings;
• wires and terminals;
• drain pump;
• filling valve.

Malfunctions of these most important units of the washing machine manifest themselves in different ways. It is necessary to carefully analyze the "symptoms" in order to more or less accurately diagnose the problem of the module even before disassembling the "home assistant". In particular.

Note! When diagnosing faults in the washing machine with your own hands, be sure to listen and take a closer look at its work at the stages of washing, rinsing, spinning and draining. In addition, read the user manual, any deviations from the norm should alert you.

To get to the heating element of the washing machine, you need to unscrew several fasteners that hold the back wall of the LG washing machine by yourself, and then dismantle this wall. Next, you need to pay attention to the lower part of the tank (near the very bottom). Two paired contacts with a screw in the middle should stick out from there, to which several wires go - this is the ten. We check the contacts with a multimeter, if its display shows a value less than 20 Ohm - the ten is faulty.

Removing the ten is easy. We unscrew the screw we mentioned with our own hands, pry on the sealing gum with a screwdriver and pull out the heating element from the bowels of the tank. We visually check the status of the module. Burnt teng rarely does not have any visually noticeable damage (usually these are burnt spots). In most cases, the heating element breaks down due to a layer of scale that settles on it. Also, a breakdown can be provoked by a voltage drop or water that gets on the contacts. The video guide will help you to correctly remove the ten.

Repair of this module of the LG washing machine is not possible, only replacement. It is necessary to purchase an original spare part from the manufacturer and install it in the tank of the washing machine, not forgetting to install the sealing rubber. In the process of installing the heating element, you need to be most careful about the sealing rubber of the heating element. To make it sit better in place, you need to lubricate it with a small amount of machine oil.

Important! If the sealing rubber of the heating element sits loosely in the bore hole, water from the tank will seep onto the contacts of the heating element and it will most likely burn out again in the near future. Be careful.