Fuel level sensor mitsubishi lancer 9 DIY repair

In detail: fuel level sensor Mitsubishi Lancer 9 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

You will need: a socket wrench "for 8", a knife.

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.

3. Using a knife, pry the hatch cover at the base of the body above the fuel level indicator sensor and remove it.

The cover is glued with sealant.

4. While pressing the release tab, disconnect the transmitter harness connector.

5. Remove the three nuts securing the sensor body to the fuel tank.

6.. and carefully remove the fuel level sensor from the tank together with the rubber gasket, taking care not to damage the float and other parts.

Be sure to replace the gasket if it is torn or badly crimped.

7. Install the sensor and all removed parts in the reverse order of removal. At the same time, glue the sunroof cover over the fuel level indicator sensor with sealant.

I started repairing the sensor, like many others, by bending the slider. But not even a year had passed and the problem came to visit me again. This time I had to take a closer look at this issue. The essence of the problem is the wear of the bushing in which the float axis rotates.

Pay attention to how far the slider moves away when the float is lowered (empty tank):

1. Cut out a rectangle from the PCB (3-4mm):

2. At this plate we grind on the large sides of the chamfer. We cut out the clamp in the form of a Chevrolet nameplate from the tin and squeeze the plate along the chamfers so that the metal of the clamp does not protrude onto the plane of the PCB.

3. We put the ends of the clamp under the sensor and fix it with the bracket of the sensor itself.

P.S. The pictures were taken with a phone, so the quality leaves much to be desired, but the meaning of the actions is clear anyway.

Video (click to play).

The report used materials from the author “mits163”, for which many thanks to him!

I also have a problem with the sensor does not show the fuel level only when the floor of the tank does not go lower, I even bought a new sensor, it is still a problem. Tell me what to do?

First, make sure the tidy is in good working order.
With the ignition switch off, remove the electrical connector from the fuel sensor.
Incl. the ignition switch to the "АСС" position, the fuel level should show a full tank.
Off ignition lock and close the contacts in the electrical connector. In this case, when incl. ignition lock, the fuel level on the tidy should show an empty tank.
Read this thread from another forum and follow the link in this thread:
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/530/index.php?showtopic=3415

I tried it all. I'll look in the inside of the tidy thanks for the link.

Hello, I have the following problem with the sensor, after refueling everything is fine, but sometimes the fuel level drops sharply, although there are actually 20 liters in the tank, and it shows an empty tank on the instrument panel, but after a while the arrow rises to the real fuel level. how to deal with it?

From what you wrote, I come to the following conclusions: at a certain level of fuel
(20 liters) the moving part of the FLS periodically loses contact with the stationary one.
Remove the FLS from the tank, check my assumption and if it is correct, try to restore contact in the entire measuring range of the sensor. Perhaps at this stage of the problem it will be enough to simply bend the movable slider in order to displace it from the track worn from long use.

Hello, there is a problem, the fuel gauge works fine until half of the tank, then the arrow drops to zero and the light comes on, but there is still a lot of fuel, I took out the FLS from the tank, I did not find anything, put everything in its place, I can’t start it, who can help.

In your case, it is better to check the sensor not visually, but with a tester. Perhaps, somewhere in the middle, the potentiometer track is worn or broken.
Why the car won't start, I won't tell you. Maybe something else was turned off?

Good day. The problem is this! I bent the slider, put everything in place, but the fuel level is now always from the floor of the tank and above, it does not drop below. There is very little information on the net about this. During assembly, we hooked up the sensor with an electrical connector without screwing it to the tank, they wanted to test it. Whether this could affect the operation of the sensor. Guys, how to be? Help me please?

Haven't tried experimenting as suggested in the second comment?

Good afternoon! The same problem with FLS. At the beginning of the problem, how did I begin to notice the arrows running up and down, and now it does not work at all. At least before the cut-off, fill up. Advise, is it better to chemize or replace?

From the "Lancer Repair Manual":
1. Check the resistance value between
fuel level meter terminal
and the ground terminal when the float
the meter is between the position
"F" (full) and position "E" (empty).
F position = 3 ± 1 ohm
Position E = 110 ± 1 ohm
2. Make sure the resistance is changing
smoothly when moving the float between
position "F" (full) and position "E"
(empty).
3. If the test results match
norm, go to checking the position of
the height of the float of the fuel level meter.
If the test results do not match
ok, replace the fuel gauge
in the tank.

Help solve the problem on the correct installation of the fuel sensor on the tank, on the Mitsubishi lancer 10! (There may be some marks), the sensor shows incorrect readings!

Tell me how to properly fix the fuel sensor on the tank at the moments of creep, on the hairpins (tags)

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.

3. Using a knife, pry the hatch cover at the base of the body above the fuel level indicator sensor and remove it.

The cover is glued with sealant.

4. While pressing the release tab, disconnect the transmitter harness connector.

5. Remove the three nuts securing the sensor body to the fuel tank.

6.. and carefully remove the fuel level sensor from the tank together with the rubber gasket, taking care not to damage the float and other parts.

Be sure to replace the gasket if it is torn or badly crimped.

7. Install the sensor and all removed parts in the reverse order of removal. At the same time, glue the sunroof cover over the fuel level indicator sensor with sealant.

Before starting the repair, you need to make sure that the dashboard is functioning normally. To do this, you need to conduct a simple test: turn off the ignition and remove the connector from the fuel level sensor, then turn the ignition key to the ACC position. The sensor should show a full tank. After that, you need to turn off the ignition and close the connector contacts. In this case, when the ignition is turned on, the sensor will indicate an empty tank. If the tidy works, you need to proceed to repairing the fuel level sensor.

A common problem of the ninth generation Lancer is the failure of the fuel level sensor. The problem is in the bushing on which the float rotates. For repairs, a 3-4 mm plastic plate is required. thick rectangular shape. The plate must be wrapped with a piece of aluminum and installed in the sensor body.

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All Respect, there is a problem with the fuel level sensor. It shows the amount of fuel only when the tank is full, as soon as the gasoline becomes a little less than half, the arrow immediately drops to zero. The photo below shows that most likely the problem is that the board has a large output on the left On the other hand, the question arises whether it is possible to fix this or is it necessary to buy a new sensor? Thank you very much for your attention, if someone advises something, I will be glad)

Flex Wed, 27 Feb 2008 16:16

Zarathustra »Wed, 27 Feb 2008 16:24

Tail »Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:09

Careless Angel »Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:47

Monstradamus »Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:53

Flex »Thu, 28 Feb 2008 8:28 am

Topic »Fri, 21 Mar 2008 13:06

Monstradamus »Fri, 21 Mar 2008 14:52

VAlex »Fri, 21 Mar 2008 19:42

Sanek_NightWOLF »Sat, 22 Mar 2008 01:06

Flex »Tue, 25 Mar 2008 10:30

aleksandr113 »Sat, 29 Mar 2008 22:58

Vifliem »Sun, 30 Mar 2008 20:19

should be under the siduha. unscrew, pull out, change.

I also have a sensor driving. I am km. forty n6a in reserve drove, and I have waxed up to a full tank of only 31 liters. What the hell? and until the middle, when it falls from the top mark, it seems to show. will then raise 23 liters from the top mark to the middle. what for gon? some kind of guidance on our sensors (((

aleksandr113 "Tue, 13 May 2008 18:52

IGOR 1983 »Sun, 18 May 2008 16:43

Jeka73

Drives: Mitsubishi lancer
With us from 05.10.11
Total Posts: 6

Please tell me: The fuel level sensor shows that the tank is empty when the tank is almost full. The indicator lamp also lights up.

mATr1xX

Drives: Audi A4
With us from 05.02.11
Total Posts: 548

to Jeka73: Check the sensor contacts. Perhaps the fuel level sensor itself.

Rain
Chief newsmaker

With us since 26.09.07
Total Posts: 534

to Jeka73: The buggy sensor will most likely need to be replaced.

Messir

With us from 05.12.10
Total Posts: 780

to Jeka73: The sensor float may have leaked and drowned.

First, remove the connector from the sensor and look at the readings of the device to rule out a wiring malfunction.

very al

Drives: Mitsubishi lancer
With us from 22.11.12
Total Posts: 6

Did you figure it out or do you need more help ?? I had such a problem !!

Messir

With us from 05.12.10
Total Posts: 780

very al

Drives: Mitsubishi lancer
With us from 22.11.12
Total Posts: 6

Hey !! There are 2 solutions. Buy a new one - 2500r. Or repair + upgrade of the old one. Below I will describe my actions !!

Sensor, shit. Construction and material are non-ice. Plastic + metal. Problem: there are several of them and one on it. Go .

very al

Drives: Mitsubishi lancer
With us from 22.11.12
Total Posts: 6

When I bought my car, the fuel gauge did not work.
I learned on the site that I am not alone. However, here and there they advised to score on the problem and drive on a light bulb (odometer).
But having driven like this for several months, I decided that I didn’t like it when I was in the car that something didn’t work.
As a result, I decided to fix the troubles.
During the tests, it turned out that the indicator in the tidy smoothly changes its readings depending on the resistance with a mass equal to from 140 to 1 Ohm.
Having established that the sensor in the tank was faulty, he immediately dismantled it.
I must say, I prepared nichrome in advance and decided, if necessary, to change the sensor to Zhiguli, bypassing it with the necessary resistor. But everything turned out to be much simpler.

The pointer slider is coated with oxides and becomes non-conductive.
Cleaning the winding and slider with felt and we have a working sensor again.

Time did not take much more than half an hour, counting the time spent on removal and installation.

PS For reference. The fuel gauge on Exist is supplied complete with a gasoline pump and costs 16,098.26 rubles.

A malfunction of the fuel pump of Mitsubishi Lancer 9 cars can manifest itself after 5 - 7 years of car operation. As a rule, the complete failure of the fuel pump is preceded by the moment when, if the engine fails to start, it is enough to knock on the gas tank for the pump to start up again and the engine starts.

In 4G13 engines, which are installed on Mitsubishi Lancer, the fuel pump must provide a rail pressure of more than 3 bar. With a loss of performance of the fuel pump, the injectors do not provide normal fuel atomization, the engine power decreases sharply. Computer diagnostics may not diagnose such a malfunction, since the electrical parameters of the pump do not change.

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more"

The main reasons for the malfunction of the fuel pump are:

loss of pump performance as a result of natural wear and tear;
failure when the fuel pump filter is clogged and damaged;
overheating of the pump during long-term operation with low gasoline levels;
burning of contacts;
breakage of the winding of the electric drive.

The reason for the failure of the fuel pump may be associated with a malfunction of the electrical equipment: a blown fuse in the pump circuit, a malfunction of the fuel pump relay, electrical wiring and the connector of the fuel pump unit. In this case, the repair of the fuel pump is not required. It is necessary to eliminate the malfunction of the electrical equipment of the car.

The main symptoms of a fuel pump malfunction:

the car stalled while driving;
the engine does not start after a short stay;
the engine starts to work intermittently while driving, the car moves jerkily.

When the first signs of a malfunction of the fuel pump appear, it is necessary to make computer diagnostics, start troubleshooting.

The fuel pump unit is located in the fuel tank. Access to it in the Mitsubishi Lancer is provided through a hatch, which is located under the rear seat.

To gain access to it, the rear seat must be raised.

Then you should carefully remove the protective film, after which access to the shaft lining will be provided.

There is a fuel pump unit under the cover. It includes:

Next, the connector and fuel hoses are dismantled.

Particular attention must be paid to unscrewing the nuts securing the fuel pump unit. It is advisable to pre-process them with WD, and then carefully unscrew them. After dismantling the pump, check the bottom of the tank for contamination. The best option when there is a minimum fuel level in the tank. Then, with the help of natural rags, you can remove the remaining gasoline and accumulated dirt.

The removed pump should be wiped dry and allowed to dry. It is advisable to carry out this operation in the open air so that gasoline vapors do not accumulate.

Further operation is filter dismantling. In any case, it is better to change it, even if it is relatively clean.

If the filter is visibly dirty as shown in the figure, it must be replaced 100%.

Trying to rinse it out is useless. Microparticles of dirt get inside, as shown in the figure of the cut filter.

The gas pump in Lancer 9 is not repairable. It must be changed aggregate. There are analogs completely corresponding in size and landing zones. One of them is shown in the figure. Their cost is from 1,100 rubles. Items - 42022-FE011, BP4W-13-35ZG.

You can purchase a genuine Mitsubishi filter. Its article is MR552781, the price is about 3500 rubles. There are analogues on sale that cost almost an order of magnitude lower, for example, Japan Parts FC-523S, Nipparts J1335052, Sakura FS-1037, Concord FL20016 and others.

The contract pump article MR566825, NVIMR552781 can be purchased at a price of 3,000 rubles.

After replacing the fuel pump and filter, it is necessary to mount the structure in the reverse order.

Since gasoline is a flammable substance, during work, it is necessary to strictly observe safety measures:

do not use power tools, open flames, do not smoke;
if possible, all work should be done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area;
during work, keep the doors and glass doors of the car open;
while replacing the pump and filter, the fuel pump shaft should be covered with a plastic bag, the doors of the car (or glass) should not be covered.

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250 km (to a position between 2/3 and 1/2 of the tank) After the arrow slowly but surely goes to zero. After about ten minutes the light comes on, after another 5 minutes the arrow rests on the limiter.
Observing an unhealthy situation, I stop by the gas station and pour in a full tank = 23 liters. Therefore, this is not an overexpenditure on the driving style (and it is unlikely that it changed dramatically in an hour)
We make a knight's move - food 470 km. Everything is as described earlier. I fill twenty liters (coupons). The arrow is waited to the level (tank floor). After 10 minutes, the hand gradually drops to zero.
Appearance is observed on a cold and warm machine.

The car is on the move, and the service is really far away.

Nobody knows if the fuel level sensor is not “tied” to the fuel pump? (which was changed according to the regulations for 120 tyk)
Could the crooked hands of the Nicole-service workers install it incorrectly? Why did the problem appear 20 tyk after the presence of foreign objects in the tank (such as fingers and so on)
_________________
I am a street child. If sho.

“First of all, you need to listen to the client and collect the maximum
information about the malfunction ", - Yes, I listened to him! So what of that? I asked him:
- Was there any light on the dashboard?
The client replied rather:
- Burned. But I extinguished it! I did it as they say on the forum: "I disconnected the battery - I connected it." Now everything is in order, nothing burns and does not irritate the eyes!
Well, what could I say? Only muttered:
- You are well done. Five points!
The client felt something and was worried:
- Did I do something wrong?
- Yes, there was no need to "extinguish anything on the dashboard", that's all. Your malfunction is "floating", and now it is not clear whether it will arise now, when checking, or not. And if the CHECK on the panel had not been extinguished, then we would now know exactly what the car is complaining about, and would immediately start looking in that direction. Now look for fistulas ...
- Well, excuse me ...
- You should read the forums more carefully, otherwise they will sometimes advise you ... but if you were given an answer to a specific question, that's one thing. Otherwise you have taken this "troubleshooting option" out of context and applied it to your car. You have to be careful ...

Indeed, the malfunction on the car was from the category of "floating": that is, then no, it disappears and the car works like a clock, no complaints. And there are two options, no, even three options:
1. Try to look for a malfunction according to the description, according to the client.
2. Wait until the malfunction manifests itself, a malfunction code appears and work already according to the code.
3. Spend time, drive the car in different operating modes, if the malfunction does not manifest itself in any way - give the client's car with strict admonitions that “this light on the dashboard cannot be extinguished. ".

It is possible to describe this simple malfunction in words, but it’s not that ... I specially made short videos so that you could watch and listen, here are the videos:

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Read on this forum for these links

Maybe that's your problem.

The 9th and 10th models of the cult Lancers from Mitsubishi can often be found on the roads of Russia and the CIS countries. Like all other cars in the post-Soviet space, they run on fuel, frankly speaking, of not very high quality. Such a fuel not only excludes obtaining maximum efficiency from the Mitsubishi Lancer engine, but also adversely affects its condition. In order to avoid premature wear of car parts, each owner must timely change the fuel filter and systematically monitor its condition. More details on how this machine unit is arranged and how to operate it correctly will be discussed below.

A fuel filter in any car is a very important element, since its correct operation largely depends on how well and how long the rest of the vehicle's components will work. The most important functions of a fuel filter are:

protection of fuel lines, injector and other elements of the fuel system of the machine from the adverse effects of impurities in the fuel;
protection of the internal cavity of the motor from the ingress of dirty fuel into it, which during combustion can negatively affect the engine and significantly reduce its resource.

Structurally, the fuel filter Lancer 9 and 10 are very similar. They are located in a separate module in the gas tank. The latter, in turn, consists of two main elements:

a coarse fuel filter, which is designed to get rid of fuel from large impurities (water, fractions, at least 1 mm in size, etc.);
a fine fuel filter that filters fuel for smaller impurities.

Working in the system, both filter elements of the Mitsubishi Lancer 9-10 clean the fuel as much as possible from foreign fractions. After that, the fuel successfully passes through the fuel lines to the injector, and then to the engine, completely without harming the components of the car. It should be understood that filters are impermanent devices, therefore, over time, their cellular structure becomes clogged with dirt and they can no longer filter fuel.

Of course, every time to remove the Lancer 10 or 9 fuel filter for inspection is an extremely irrational and time-consuming measure. In addition, it will be possible to check only the coarse filter element, since it is visible to the naked eye, but its brother is in a closed container, as a result of which it becomes impossible to check its condition. How then to be? The answer is very simple - to carefully monitor the behavior of your car.

Many car owners with at least little experience know that a breakdown of even a seemingly insignificant car unit will make itself felt. A dirty fuel filter is no exception. In most cases, a clogged filter element on the Mitsubishi Lancer 9-10 provokes such phenomena in the behavior of the car as:

increased fuel consumption;
instability of the engine at idle and when increasing the speed;
poor start of the engine "cold";
total loss of power and vehicle dynamics;
in the process of movement - tripping, spontaneous braking and jerking of the car.

It is not a secret for anyone that similar signs can appear with many other failures of the Mitsubishi Lancer 9-10 fuel system, however, with the problem with the filter, there is one significant difference - a gradual increase in symptoms. That is, instability in the operation of the car will begin to manifest itself with the most insignificant phenomena and, over time, will already cause significant discomfort to its owner.

In addition, it is possible to determine the feasibility of replacing the filter according to the terms that the manufacturer regulates for its models. According to information from the Japanese automaker, the Mitsubishi Lancer 9 and 10 fuel filter is required:

check - every 15-20,000 kilometers;
replace - every 120,000 kilometers.

It should be noted that given the poor quality of fuel in Russia and the CIS, it is advisable to reduce these terms by 15-30%. This is the only way to achieve really truthful information.

Replacing the fuel filter Lancer 9 and 10 is not such a difficult procedure, so if you wish, you can save on it in a specialized service station. To carry out a hand-held repair of this machine unit, you will only need basic auto repair skills, some preparation and knowledge of the essence of this process. Of course, our resource will not help you with the first ones, but we will be happy to acquaint you with information regarding the last two points.

So, first of all, get a new fuel filter. It is advisable to change the entire assembly, however, in the normal state of one of the fine or coarse filter elements, it is quite possible to do with replacing only the damaged part. It is important to buy a new filter in compliance with its full identity to your vehicle.

Secondly, get ready before replacing. This stage includes the following procedures:

Gather the necessary set of tools: a standard set of wrenches, a screwdriver, rags and pliers.
Next, place your Mitsubishi Lancer 9-10 on a flat surface that is quite spacious.
And finally, be sure to take care of safety precautions: exclude nearby sources of open fire, place a fire extinguisher near the repair site and find protective equipment for yourself (rubber gloves are enough).

Directly replacing the fuel filter Lancer 10 and 9 is carried out as follows and is absolutely similar on both models from Mitsubishi:

Depressurize the vehicle's fuel system first. To do this, turn off the battery, remove the fuel pump fuse from the mounting block, connect the battery and start the car. After it dies out, turn the starter a couple of times and disconnect the battery. This procedure is done in order to avoid leaks of gasoline from disconnected fuel lines.
Remove the rear sofa and dismantle the existing soundproofing.

Unscrew the four fasteners of the soundproofing cover, which prevents access to the gas tank, and remove this hatch.

Video (click to play).

Clean any dirt from the fuel tank and the filter module itself.

After cleaning, remove all hoses and wires going to the fuel module.

Then unscrew the filter fasteners and remove the assembly.

Now you can disassemble the module and replace the necessary filter elements. After replacing, put the car in reverse and start it, letting it run for a couple of minutes.

In general, replacing the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 and 9 fuel filter is not so difficult if you know the basic nuances of this procedure. We hope the above material was useful to you. Good luck with the repairs and on the road!

Video about replacing the fuel filter Mitsubishi Lancer 9-10:

Hello everyone. All a Happy New Year!A client arrived, the complaint is as follows:2. the sound from the exhaust has become a little boo-boo.3. swapped the coils (there are two of them)4.tried to cool the coils one by one (well, you never know when heating.)5.Meryl compression approx. 136. Unscrew the candles - white clean. on the first there is only a little dark bloom8.the fuel regulator pinched the tube - zero changes9.forces disconnected from the launch and so on from the connectorand then I realized - I'm at a creative dead end ((kick in the right direction pliz.I sent the client and said I will think, as I think, so I will call him.What's in 1 cylinder? Mnevmotest? Maybe the valve is burnt out?Well, while pneumotests are not available to me (as poor as a church mouse, I settle down with the instrument slowly) and there is no oscillation either. because there is nothing for now (and the compression gauge showed 13 eyes. Well, although it may be the weather, but in the other boilers it is the same, thereby I concluded that the compression is more or less even.

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41st Region 30 Dec 2014

Can you find out the malfunction code? Well, the one who “erased the error”?

Post has been edited Region 41: 30 December 2014 - 01:17

fvavip2004 when the force of the 1st c. turned off the reaction of the motor what, in comparison with the rest?

I would have given up some forces. Most likely, the error will "move" to another pot. If not, narrow your search.

Can you find out the malfunction code? Well, the one who “erased the error”?

Probably ignorance skips

The topic was not created professionally. There are no diagnostic screens, and how to understand the return flow is squeezed, and if the pump is dead, squeeze it, it will not be of any use.

The pump pressure was not measured. And you want something to be answered.

You are repairing a car using a scientific poke.

This is a professional forum, if you are a master, then please arrange the topic in the proper way. And then you will get an adequate answer.

Post has been edited SHTIFT: 30 December 2014 - 11:11

They have such garbage starts when the oil level is below min.

Perhaps the car is stitched on E2, but the cat has not been removed and fused, you need to measure the back pressure or look visually.

In short, if there is no normal data in the subject, I'll just delete it!

Don't be snobbish). I will fix it, write the wine code. When the client arrives again. how everyone will celebrate.

And whenever possible I will create themes professionally. Still, unfortunately, I simply did not acquire an oscillator and there is nothing to spread normal screenshots (

when erasing, it did not appear immediately, but mainly when moving and mainly when switching. In this case, the check sometimes goes out by itself.

I will torment further, if the topic is not deleted, I will write down what happened.

They have such garbage starts when the oil level is below min.

Perhaps the car is stitched on E2, but the cat has not been removed and fused, you need to measure the back pressure or look visually.

In short, if there is no normal data in the subject, I'll just delete it!

with all due respect, at the same time the hydraulic compensators should rumble, otherwise it has nothing to do with the oil level.

and for the author of the topic. if everything is really ok with the compression and the only force remains in the system. check is also easy. if there is no stand, then just swap and look at which cylinder the error will climb.

about the wetsuit. the owner happily shared with me that the engine started clattering once, so he switched to hado and lo and behold. silence.

after I explained to him why they are sobsna clatter, his joy diminished.

But about the force was a little thought in places. shopping mall manual for ninth lancers, among other things, describes in PM forces.

(I’m very interested in HOW !? the computer finds out which cylinder is happy. After all, there are paired coils, okay, individual ones, or judges the operation of the motor by force?)

after all, miracles do not happen. there is a spark, the candles are buzzing, there is FUEL. I will change their places, then I will tell you.

I'm very interested in HOW ?! the computer finds out which cylinder is happy. Because there are paired coils. okay, would it be individual, or judging by the force of the motor?

after all, miracles do not happen. there is a spark, the candles are buzzing, there is FUEL.

According to the speed of rotation of the KV. Comp determines the contribution of each cylinder.

Regarding the codes of passes in the cylinder, not only the spark, candles and fuel are responsible for this, but also the condition of the valves, compression and exhaust!

Not properly. Not by rotation speed, but by REGULARITY of rotation. In addition, the motor is equipped with a phase sensor, so it is easier for the ECU to track a specific cylinder. So it turns out that there are problems with the 1st cylinder, and then there may be a coil, a candle, compression, a hydraulic compensator, an injector and a banal suction under the nozzle rubber band, and they are special, I waited for myself for 3 days.

They have such garbage starts when the oil level is below min.

Perhaps the car is stitched on E2, but the cat has not been removed and fused, you need to measure the back pressure or look visually.

In short, if there is no normal data in the subject, I'll just delete it!

with all due respect, at the same time the hydraulic compensators should rumble, otherwise it has nothing to do with the oil level.

On my first Lance, the wetsuit sometimes knocked alone, but there were no passes, while the client, on the contrary, did not have a knock, and the gaps were precisely because of the wetsuit, he stupidly jammed.

They have such garbage starts when the oil level is below min.

Perhaps the car is stitched on E2, but the cat has not been removed and fused, you need to measure the back pressure or look visually.

In short, if there is no normal data in the subject, I'll just delete it!

with all due respect, at the same time the hydraulic compensators should rumble, otherwise it has nothing to do with the oil level.

Exactly! But, to be absolutely precise, if the ignition is missed, the pressure in the cylinder during the working stroke is below normal, the movement of the piston and the SPEED OF THE CRANKSHAFT slows down. It is from these signs that the misfire monitor determines the presence of a misfire. Information is taken from the crankshaft position sensor. The uniform repetition of pulses from the output of the crankshaft position sensor during misfire is violated, and several pulses in a row will have a long duration (IRREGULARITY OF ROTATION SPEED). Comparison of the output signals from the two sensors (camshaft and crankshaft positions) allows identification of the cylinder with a misfire.

gum under the force there get up from our family at a time.

I don’t understand what is the connection between a stuck hydrick and a low oil level?

Yeah. I tried. bullshit turns out. Here is the original.

gum under the force there get up from our family at a time.

I don’t understand what is the connection between a stuck hydrick and a low oil level?

Ride this, repair a dozen 3-4 of these and you will find out.

Well, actually, I thought that everything would end with these words. I report. I ride this and did about the same amount as indicated)))))

the sealing ring of red silicone (balakovskie) is remarkably worth the 4th year.

sorry from the author of any news, but here we flood and measure ourselves))))))

Phoned the owner of the car, agreed on the near future. I will torment the Lancer as he arrives.

In the meantime, I am inspired by ideas from the forum.

ps. the car is in principle well-groomed, the troubles appeared suddenly. and manifests itself like this:

the shaking is palpable, but not like when the boiler is completely inoperative. and from the exhaust, boo-boo-boo appears as if in waves / intervals.

3. swapped the coils (there are two of them)

and then skated? the pass did not go to another cylinder?

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