Do-it-yourself wooden floor in a private house repair

In detail: do-it-yourself wooden floor in a private house repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

How pleasant it is to walk barefoot on the warm wooden floor! But what if the floor is no longer so smooth, if it is already covered with a thick layer of paint, if an unpleasant draft blows through the cracks in it, and the floorboards themselves creak and sag under your weight? There are different ways to answer this question. And these answers depend on several conditions - the knowledge and skills of the owner, his financial capabilities and his own desires and imaginations. You understand, with such a variety, you can do anything - from covering the floors with another coat of paint to completely replacing the old wooden floor with one of the modern floor coverings. Therefore, now we will talk about repairing a wooden floor - from the simplest to the major one.

When planning to put the floors in order, you should determine exactly what exactly your floor needs at the moment - renewal of the coating, routine repairs, overhaul or complete replacement of the flooring. Let's go through each of the options:

the renewal of the coating must be carried out every 2-5 years, depending on the coating itself and on the condition of the floor under it - it is usually carried out either as planned (as follows according to the instructions), or as the previous layer wears off in places subject to the greatest stress
normal repairs are done when the floor begins to sag slightly and creak underfoot, when gaps form between the floorboards and the boards begin to "lift" the edges
major repairs are required in two cases - if you decide on a complete renovation of the apartment or your floor begins to rot and deform to a complete disgrace
a complete replacement of the flooring is performed during the global renovation of the entire home with the replacement of “outdated” finishes with more modern ones

Video (click to play).

Only one thing can be said about the durability of floors made of massive wooden boards - if high-quality material was used (properly dried boards without rot and excess knotty, treated with protective impregnations), and they were properly looked after, then such floors can last up to 150 years without a complete replacement. Therefore, we will only consider renovations - you are unlikely to live in a house where wooden floors were laid over 100 years ago.

Any business consists of three stages - preparation, the actual business and the final finishing. Repair of wooden floors will not be an exception to the rule. It's just that in each specific case of repair, the steps in the stages will be slightly different. And let's start with the most laborious.

Usually, when overhauling a floor, they carry out a partial replacement of floorboards (rotten, cracked or broken) and work on insulation, vapor barrier or even laying a system of "warm floors" (you can read about them in other articles - the whole process for different types of warm floors is indicated in detail - electric, water and film). And the scheme for the overhaul of wooden floors looks like this:

Preparing floors for renovation:

remove the skirting board
if the boards are painted with oil paint, it must be removed to clean wood
the floor boards are numbered so that later it would be convenient to lay them back
carefully remove the floorboards, determining their suitability for further use (damaged boards must be replaced with new ones, and it is not necessary to throw out the whole board if only some part is rotten - in this case, you can remove a low-quality piece and put a more durable one in its place)
floor boards from the inside (facing down) side should be treated with a special impregnation that protects against mold and decay - this way they will last much longer
remove all debris from the "subfloor" until the concrete base (or floor slab) appears
you can remove the lags, or at least carefully inspect them for the integrity of the material - the bars that have become unusable need to be replaced

We carry out all the necessary work to improve our floors:

we lay insulation between the logs, various materials can be used as insulation - from expanded clay to mineral wool and foam

a vapor barrier - we lay the film strips overlapping (about 20 centimeters) and fix them to each other with foil tape (the simplest vapor barrier is a plastic film, but you can use more expensive and reliable materials, such as penofol)
we lay the floor boards - according to the numbers printed in the process of removal
we fix the boards to the logs using self-tapping screws - this is more reliable than using nails (we deepen the screws into the surface of the tree by 3-5 mm)

we check the horizontal of the floor with a spirit level (level), and where the edges of the boards protrude behind each other with a noticeable discrepancy in height, we go through the plane
roughly leveled floors are looped to make the surface even (differences in height of a couple of millimeters per linear meter are permissible)

we putty the cracks (if any) and the places of deepening of the self-tapping screws, we grind the filled places again
we remove all debris - with a brush, vacuum cleaner, damp cloth

we treat clean and even wood of our renovated floor with protective impregnations (if we are going to paint the floor with ordinary oil paint, then ordinary drying oil can serve as such impregnation)

put the plinth

Our floors are almost ready for use, all that remains is to apply a finishing protective coating, for example:

varnish - today this is the most popular coating, because in addition to excellent protective properties, varnish allows you to fully enjoy the beauty of the tree itself

paint - special floor paints allow you to keep our floor strong for a long time and give it any color
oil - modern oils for wood floors penetrate deep into the wood, making it more wear-resistant and durable, but still it is better to use them as an impregnation
wax - the excellent effect of waxed wood has been known for a long time, however, it requires constant and rather expensive maintenance

Not that much effort, right? Of course, it takes a lot of time, but the result is worth it - practically new floors at quite modest prices. For those who are interested in the opportunity to independently make a major overhaul of a wooden floor - a video where all the work is done by the hands of the owners under the strict guidance of a specialist.

High-quality material is not always used for laying wooden floors, this is especially noticeable if the floors are laid not by the owner, but by the builders (although during the Soviet Union, government agencies were still more honest about their responsibilities). If you are lucky and your floors have not yet collapsed under your feet, but only creak and slightly “play”, then only a small repair is needed - and they will delight you with their durability for a long time to come. But no matter how simple the repair is, it is worth approaching it with all responsibility. Therefore, the scheme of actions will be as follows:

As a preliminary preparation, you should completely get rid of the layers of old paint or varnish by opening clean wood (after all, in this form it is much easier to notice any shortcomings)
The repair itself is as follows:

check all the floorboards for rot, mold, rotten areas (if such areas are still found, then it is necessary to cut out the affected areas, and put new boards in their place)

improve fixing of boards to logs - hammer nails deeper or even change them for self-tapping screws, the caps should be deepened into the wood by about half a centimeter
put a chopik (wooden plank) into wide slots on putty (or wood glue), narrow narrow ones just cover with the same putty

loop the floor to a flat smooth surface
prime clean floorboards with oils or impregnations that improve the performance of wood

The floors are repaired, there are little things left: painting or varnishing

Even with such a relatively simple renovation, the floors look practically new. This becomes especially noticeable if the floors were previously covered with a solid layer of paint, and after the repair from under the varnish pure wood shone with sunny shades. This is why the floor hopping step is so important. Watch the video carefully - it contains the looping rules in sufficient detail and in an accessible manner.

At one time, when doing floor repairs, you probably chose the most suitable protective floor covering, which reliably keeps the wood from rot, mold, deformation and too strong mechanical damage, that is, it preserves the beauty and strength of your floors. However, to our great regret, such a remedy has not yet been invented that would act once and for all, therefore, all the protective properties of coatings must be periodically renewed. Thank God, it does not take as much effort, time and money as other types of repairs. In this case, the process is simplified to the point of impossibility, and nothing needs to be done at all:

To maximally clean the floor surface from dirt, dust, grease - everything that can negatively affect the coating

Apply a new layer (or several layers - this mainly concerns the places with the greatest surface load) of the protective coating

Celebrate the end of the renovation

The only thing that can be added here is the ability to decoratively change your floors. It is worth slightly changing the color or applying an interesting pattern - and your floors will be transformed, bringing a touch of renewal to the design of your apartment. By the way, this video shows one of the ways to get the maximum effect with minimal effort.

Wooden floor

It is possible to decide whether repairs are needed or not by external signs, among them the most obvious:

Floorboards squeak under load.
The floor flexes under the weight of the furniture.
Differences in floor level are visible, water flows in one direction.
Cracks and gaps between the floorboards.
The wood is rotten and crumbles, even with a slight impact on it.

Before repairing floors in a stalinka or other wooden building, you need to check their condition. Diagnostics will help determine the scope of work. You need to examine:

Boards. Partial replacement may be necessary if rotten areas are found.
Lags - they can also be damaged.
Beams for the "work" of beetles and other pests.
It will not be superfluous to examine the subfloor, if it is seriously damaged, then it will have to be replaced.

Lags requiring replacement

Note! Do not flatter yourself if it seems that the finished floor is in perfect condition, checking the lags and the subfloor are required.After all, the problem sometimes lurks in the depths, and if it is not detected in time, the consequences will be unpleasant. It is better to repair the floor in a wooden house sooner rather than later.

The check is carried out according to several parameters:

Sound, so beams, beams and floorboards follow. To do this, tap on a wooden surface with a hammer. A dull sound means that the wood is rotten.
The appearance of the nails. From them it will be possible to see where the floorboard is rotten. In damaged areas, fasteners are rusty due to the effects of putrefactive processes.
Checking lags consists in probing with an awl. They need to walk the entire length of the log. Ideally, the awl should not easily be driven into the wood, if so, then the supports are rotten and a lot of work will have to be done. Rot is most likely to form at the ends of the beams.

You can determine the degree of necessary repairs as follows:

If an external examination showed that there are cracks, paint peeled off in places and other minor imperfections, then a partial repair is carried out.
If there is a creak, then you need to replace individual lags.
If a too cold floor is found, complete disassembly and insulation is necessary, since during the construction process they saved this.

Any damage to the floor can be repaired, only the costs, duration and complexity of the repair depend on the defects found.

Wooden floor in need of replacement

Such work is needed if the detected defects are not critical. Do not forget about checking all floor levels if there are no defects in them, which rarely happens, because the floors are not 5 or 10 years old.

Redecoration consists of sealing cracks and cracks. This is done in several ways:

Repair using putties.
Sealing with glue and sawdust mixtures.
Clogging of cracks with slats.

Any of these options will not take a lot of resources and time. After completing the work, the floor is again as good as new and will serve for many more years.

Often, repairs to an old wooden floor in a private house are carried out when it is impossible not to notice wear and tear. In most cases, the floorboards need to be replaced. In the most difficult situations, there are also lags and a rough floor. Such measures will be needed by the owners of houses whose floors are more than 40 years old, wood is not metal, it has its own resource. And given the fact that previously such attention was not paid to wood processing and its isolation from negative factors, overhaul is the only measure.

Partial floor board replacement

"Stalinkas" are residential buildings that were built during the Soviet era, until the beginning of the 60s of the last century. Such structures have characteristic features:

High ceilings.
Large windows and spacious rooms inside.
Wooden floors between floors.
Wooden floors.

Many owners who live in such houses are interested in how to replace the wooden floor in the stalinka. There are many options, but you still can't do without lags and a rough floor.

Reconstruction measures for wood flooring in stalinka or other types of houses are similar.

Dismantle the old floor.
Install new lags.
Equip the sub-floor.
Warming.
Install a clean floor.

Hand saw or chainsaw.
Hammer.
Nail puller.

On the floorboard in old houses there is an additional coating - linoleum, carpet and others. They are removed along with the baseboards. With the latter, you need to act carefully, it may turn out to be reused.

Note! Particular difficulties arise just in "stalinkas", in Soviet times it was difficult to find suitable fasteners, so a sheet of hardboard was nailed with 5 cm nails, when removing them from the board, problems arise.

To dismantle the boards, you will need to find a gap. With the help of a crowbar or a nail puller, or better both, pry the board and rip it off. You need to pry it along the entire length so as not to damage it if it is intact. Then you should pull out the nails. So remove both the finishing and the rough floor, if any.

After that, you should not delude yourself to inspect the state of the lag, most likely, it is catastrophic. They can be damaged by the bark beetle or completely rotted.

Dismantling the subfloor

If the situation is not so critical, then the logs must also be carefully dismantled by unscrewing them from the beams and support pillars. In cases where a wooden house rests on embedded beams, the process of replacing the floor is accompanied by jacking up the house. This is necessary to replace the beams at the anchor points.

Before installing, clarify whether it is necessary to drain the basement and grout the foundation. If dampness is detected in the subfield, drainage is necessary, which will increase the time required to repair the floor. If there are places with a damaged foundation, you need to add it and wait until it dries.

Check the condition of the support posts. For laying new lags, the elements must be serviceable. It happens that in the old structures of wooden houses there are no posts at all, they are installed before mounting the supports. Steps when installing a lag:

Marking on the support beams of the sections for fastening the beams. If there are columns, then their markings.
Determine the angles of the posts in the longitudinal and transverse planes.
Treatment of lags with an antiseptic will extend the service life several times.
Further, the posts are waterproofed.
Lags are laid on them and fixed. In this case, it is necessary to reach a horizontal level, if in some places there are protrusions, process the supports with a plane.
To fasten the lags to the support beams, self-tapping screws of the required length are used, for the support posts - dowels.

The permissible deviation of the level of the lags is within 1 mm per 1 meter.

Rough or bottom floorboards are needed so that there is where to mount the insulation. For it you need a rough board with a thickness of at least 2 cm, preferably 4. They must be dried and treated with an antiseptic. Installation of boards is carried out across the logs with fastening to the beams. Wooden boards can be nailed or screwed on with self-tapping screws.

Although the floor is rough, there should be no gaps in it; they are blown out with polyurethane foam, if they are found. After the foam dries, cut off the excess.

Installation of new lags

The wooden floor needs insulation. To do this, use a variety of materials, it is important to lay a layer of waterproofing and a vapor barrier when arranging any of them. The first is laid on the subfloor before laying the insulation, the second - on top of it. Insulation options:

Budgetary solutions: sawdust or expanded clay.
Mineral wool.
Ecowool.
Izolon.
Expanded polystyrene.

Regardless of the type of insulation chosen, it is necessary to ensure tightness, it is most important for isolon and expanded polystyrene, since these materials are sheet and dense, not self-filling.

Rough floor

The upper or final wooden floor is mounted on top of the insulation, on the logs. The moisture content of wooden boards should not be more than 12%, thickness from 4 cm. It is more convenient to work with grooved ones, such have a groove-comb system. This eliminates the formation of through cracks when the wood dries up.

You need to start flooring from the corner of the room farthest from the door. The first board is laid with a comb against the wall, and a nail is driven into it. Moreover, the distance from the wall to the first board should be at least 1 cm. This ventilation gap is required. On the other hand, screw in a self-tapping screw or drive a nail at an angle of 45 degrees into the groove. Screw the rest of the boards to the logs on one side - into the groove.

In the event that the length of the boards is less than the length of the room, they are mounted at random - about 1 meter. This is necessary so that the joints of the ends do not coincide.

Before installation, floorboards must be treated with an antiseptic, which will exclude the development of mold, fungi and other damage characteristic of wood on the surface and inside the material.

Upon completion of the work, the flooring is sanded and varnished. If it is not planned to install another coating on it.In situations where additional flooring is planned, sheets of plywood or chipboard should be mounted on top, and linoleum, laminate or parquet should be installed on them.

Insulation mounted on a sub-floor

Difficulties even in a large-scale repair of a wooden floor should not arise. The technology for replacing the subfloor, lags and finished floor is similar for a private house or for an apartment. The key requirement for a new floor to last a long time is the use of dry wood materials and treatment with an antiseptic.

A wooden floor is the best option for building a country bath. They arrange it based on economic, aesthetic and environmental considerations. However, organic material is gradually losing the height of technical priorities from uneven loads, moisture drops, fluctuations in the temperature background. To extend the service life of the structure, the owner needs to regularly repair the wooden floor with his own hands in a cosmetic volume. For neglected, badly damaged, partially decaying floors, global restoration measures will be required. Let's look at how to identify the causes, how to prevent emerging problems, and how to fix small and significant defects.The list of reasons for the need for restoration includes not only the well-known sensitivity of wood to fluctuations in temperature and moisture. Periodically shrinking and swelling, the material loosens the fasteners. Pockets of decay appear if antiseptic treatment was not carried out during the construction period or if the antifungal protection was not resumed after the prescribed 2 years.It often happens that after long-term use, the floor boards begin to stagger and sag threateningly when moving along them, or even grumpily creak, meeting the feet of the owners. Often, cracks or chips appear on the floorboards and between them, favoring the settling of bacteria and rot spores. Any of these signals notifies the owner of the need for repair work, a significant part of which he can perform on his own.Before repairing, you need to examine and assess the condition of the floors, then, based on the audit carried out, draw conclusions about the amount of work to be done:

If the surface is just damaged and movement on the floor does not cause concern, you will need to tighten or change the fasteners, trim and seal small gaps with putty;

If the floorboards respond to hammer blows with a dull sound, you will have to remove and replace the rotted floor parts. It is possible that these will be not only boards or their fragments, but also logs and embedded beams. It all depends on the area affected by rot or damage by the bark beetle. It is recommended to disassemble and reposition the floor in such situations, which is much cheaper than the loss of a completely rotten structure;

Note. The presence of deterioration and the development of rot will also help determine the rust of the nail hammered into the board and the "blue" of the wood.

If the boards creak, it means that the wooden elements of the structure are not sufficiently cohesive in the area where the floorboards are joined to each other or in the area of joining with the logs. Those who cannot eliminate the cause of the squeak from the subfloor or from the surface will have to disassemble the floor, repair or improve the lag system;

If there is a disgusting smell of rot in the bath, the final, rough coating, logs, beams, and often the mortgage crowns must be changed immediately. It is better to hire a team of carpenters for work, if you want to remove the lower part of the log house in parts, lifting the entire floor with a jack, then change the embedded beams for new lumber;

Advice. You can cut the decayed sections of the log yourself and build up the timber on both sides with boards.

If the floor sags, serious restoration work is coming with the obligatory analysis of the structure and the replacement of rotten elements.If the reason for the sagging is the deformation of lags or beams that are not damaged by rot and bark beetle, supports are installed under them.

a special metal device with an unscrewing adjustment system;

steel pipe with cement poured into its cavity,

foam concrete blocks;

wooden beams;

brick posts.

Any of these options requires pouring a small local foundation 0.5 × 0.5 m and the presence of a roofing felt gasket between each other and the wooden element. The lack of height of the support post is covered by the lining of the board scraps. The direction of the upper row of masonry supports should be perpendicular to the direction of the log.Another reason for the sagging of the floorboards is the insufficient frequency of installation of the lags. This means that we need to dismantle the floor and modernize it by installing an additional beam.Visually, it can be difficult to determine whether cosmetic or major repairs of wooden floors are currently required. It is necessary to check the condition both from the inside and outside of the building, and from the side of the underground.Attention. Be sure to carefully inspect the ends of the log. Wood that is not protected in this place very quickly becomes infected with rot from the embedded timber and transfers the "infection" to the rest of the wooden elements.For examination in the twilight of the underground, do not forget to stock up on a flashlight and an assistant who will move across the floor during the period of the diagnosis. You will also need an awl, which will need to periodically try to pierce the mortgage beam or logs. We make "injections" even in those places that do not optically raise doubts about suitability. If the awl rod has passed freely into the wood, we study the size of the damaged area by the same method, cut it out and replace it by substituting a jack for insurance under the “cut off” section of the structure.An owner who is inexperienced in the field of wooden construction should not be involved in replacing crowns and embedded beams with his own hands. However, information about the probable causes will help him control the work of the brigade. But to perform simple work, it is not necessary to part with personal savings. What and how can I repair myself?Examine the "vociferous" area of the floor. We found out that unsweetened tunes are heard due to loose fasteners, then we will screw, hammer in and supplement the fastening with galvanized self-tapping screws designed for working with wood.We deal with more complex "squeaky" problems with other methods:

A common cause of a squeak is a tongue of the tongue that is loose in the groove. To eliminate it, we will dismantle the floor, first carefully dismantle the plinth, then remove the edge board, and then all the rest to the area of the squeak. We use a spatula, a lever and shims from the trims of the lath. We knock out the nails from the dismantled boards and plinth with a hammer or the butt of an ax, hitting from the side of the tip of the fastener, after which we pull it out with a nail puller. We check the lags, make, if necessary, a complete or partial replacement of the damaged components and put them back. Fasten with self-tapping screws, departing from the "old" fixation point 3 cm.

Advice. It is more reasonable to remove the grooved floor in blocks, especially if they were attached through 4 boards. The block will be easier to disassemble without damaging the locking system. So that there is no difficulty in assembling the boards in the reverse order, we number the floorboards and the baseboard.

The creak of a floorboard that does not fit tightly to the log is eliminated by lining a wedge, a piece of roofing material or cardboard, inserted under the board from the side of the subfloor. It may be sufficient to simply screw in two additional screws while inside the room. We drill holes for screws in the creaking board at an angle both to the floor and to each other. We putty the heads recessed by about 0.5 cm, grind the repair area after hardening of the putty.

The easiest method to get rid of the squeak is to fill the problematic gap between the floorboards with graphite powder or talcum powder.

Close up large cracks with wedges. For their manufacture we use trimming of slats or boards. We will process the wedge-shaped side with wood glue and drive it into the longitudinal hole. Let's wait until the glue hardens and cut off the excess protruding above the floor surface with a plane.The gap can be filled with a rope or twine coated with glue. After waiting a day, the place of repair must be putty with a homemade compound made of linoleum softened in acetone, which did not have a substrate.Small cracks can be repaired:

putty for wood;

polyurethane foam;

a mixture of fine sifted sawdust and carpentry or casein glue, taken in equal proportions;

newspaper softened in hot water, mixed with paste and wood glue;

Recipe. The mass from old newspapers, crushed into pieces, filled with boiling water, should be infused for a day. Then you need to boil the liquid paste, cool it and add wood glue. This solution should be introduced into a strongly squeezed newspaper mass and stirred until you get a homemade putty with a consistency resembling a window putty.Cracks and small gaps are covered after scraping the floor. By the way, during this period, there is a sufficient amount of sawdust used for embedding. Crack repair is completed with puttying.A board without locking joints or part of it can be removed without a complete disassembly of the floor, because it is not in a "rigid bundle" with the adjacent elements. To replace the entire floorboard, the skirting board will still need to be removed; for partial repairs, it will be necessary to accurately find out the location of the logs and underground communications.Completely remove the board as follows:

we pick up the floorboard with a crowbar from the edge and, placing a wooden block under the crowbar-lever, carefully raise it;

put wooden scraps under the raised board to fix the gap, and saw off an unnecessary piece;

in the same way, we move to the opposite edge of the floorboard.

Those who intend to re-lay the floor, turning it down with a slightly worn side, must act according to the described algorithm, but there is no need to saw off the pieces from the boards.Important. Do not forget to treat the wood with antiseptic impregnations before re-laying the wooden floor.To replace a piece of board, you will only need to cut out the damaged area. When cutting, engineering networks and logs should not be damaged. If the cutting line is expected to cross them, the size of the part to be repaired must be increased. The area to be replaced must rest on at least two logs, the line where the patch and the old board join should be located above the log.We make a new part according to the cut-out template segment, put it in place and attach it to the logs. The fasteners can be supplemented by driving nails into adjacent boards at an angle of 45º.So, the renovation of old wooden floors can be considered complete, now is the time to take care of aesthetics and prevention. Sand again, cover the restored floor with a decorative and protective layer of varnish or paint. Outside, along the perimeter between the plinth and the foundation beam, we will install an apron made of a strip of sheet lead 20 cm wide. It will prevent the penetration of atmospheric moisture and subsequent damage to the foundation crown.That's all for today, all questions and reviews - in the comments! Thank you.Typically, in houses with hardwood floors, the floors are also made of wood. This is a fairly common type of floor base in the country, in a private or country house. Wood-based floors are practical, warm and beneficial. But over time, the base begins to deteriorate, and the floors creak, sag. Much depends on the correct operation and pre-treatment of floors, the quality of installation. Be that as it may, the floors in the house with wooden beams are leaking, which means it is time to repair them.A small knock is not a knock, but a large knock will come out on its own - such a formulation of the problem in houses with wooden floors is incorrect! You need to fix it as quickly as possible. And if in your house, where you live permanently, defects are repaired immediately, then at the dacha every knock "climbs" only in the spring and most often what was a small defect over the winter "grows" into a big problem, the cost of repairing which also increases. However, almost all troubles can be eliminated by hand. So what do you have to face?If the creaky floor does not bother you, enjoy the live sounds, and those who are tired of it need to eliminate the creak.Important! Small repairs are cheap when there is a concrete sub-floor. Here the cost of restoration will be minimal.

Determine the place of the squeak and the reason. Most likely, this is a poorly fixed floorboard, lag.

If the nail / bolt heads are visible, they should be tapped with a heavy hammer.

If this does not help, then the lag is creaking. It must be secured with an anchor bolt to the base.

But to calculate the length of the bolt, you need to "drill" in the board and log to the concrete base, measure the length with a knitting needle or wire, add 3-5 cm - this is the length of the bolt.

Important! In the floorboard itself, you need to make a hole as wide as the head of the bolt.

Then you need to drill 4-5 cm into concrete (without making a hole to the neighbors) and start installing the anchor. Twisting it, pull the log with the floor to the concrete.

The procedure is simple, does not require calling the masters, who will take from $ 5-7 per m², but can be done by hand. You can also make the entire floor in the country if you have wooden floors.When a floor renewal is planned, you must also select the desired option. For example, in the country, these are the floors of the first floor, which are at the same time the ceiling for the basement. What should be done:

Checking the status of the lag. It is important to make sure that they will hold up to all the suspenders;

Find creaky floorboards by pulling them against the log with self-tapping screws.

Important! If the floors in a house with wooden floors are also wooden and planks, they can be replaced with new boards by pulling the required number of self-tapping screws to the logs. In the case of parquet flooring, the planks will need to be re-pegged.

The presence of a rough concrete floor requires the formation of a new screed or replacement of expanded clay backfill in the case of installing a backfill floor. Services of specialists are estimated from $ 10-12 per m². But it is easier to see what exactly is the reason and why the floor coverings began to walk - plywood, hardboard or chipboard sheets, laid as a basis for flooring, have their own service life and it is likely that it is in them. It is enough to replace the elements, re-arrange the covering and the floors are again usable.In a private house or in a country house, the floors on the second floor are repaired according to the basic principle. But instead of lag, stuffed bars are probably used, which must be checked for firm attachment. Then, checking the fastening of the floorboards, tightening the bolts or completely replacing the dies.Important! For a more durable fastening of the logs of the beams to the concrete floor, it is better to use ordinary dowels.The technological features of the installation of floors in the stalinka, as well as in the country house or in a private house, did not provide for fixing the lag. The slabs were laid on a rough concrete floor. Over time, the logs were bent, dried out, loosened, which means that the floor will creak, the floorboards will begin to protrude and "dance". The cost of a complete replacement by the hands of professionals starts from $ 25-30 per m², and you can do a lot with your own hands.Stages of work in a stalinka or an old country house:

Good dies / boards are dismantled;

The lag is being checked. If the condition is satisfactory, they must be removed to the side and the concrete pad must be thoroughly cleaned of debris;

Remove irregularities on the concrete with a grinder;

Measure the height of the log with boards - the threshold level serves as a reference point.

Important! When replacing boards with laminated sheets, it is necessary to lay the chipboard, plywood cover directly on the logs. This means that the height of the floor will grow. But in the Stalin era, this is not scary, because of the good height of the ceilings, but in old private houses this is often impossible.It is recommended to start laying the boards from the corner, and each subsequent one fits into the groove of the previous one, which must be nailed to the logs or screwed with a self-tapping screw. Moreover, the screw must be screwed into the lower open edge of the groove, sinking the cap so that it does not interfere with the entry of the spike.Before starting to restore the logs, lay waterproofing on the concrete base, otherwise the neighbors will be flooded. And now like this:

The logs are installed from the highest point on the concrete base.

Anchor bolts are screwed in every 50-60 cm, and choose the direction of the lag yourself. It is advised to lay the logs along the wall shorter in order to simplify the alignment;

Fix the joists to the concrete using anchor bolts, and adjusting the height is easier with wood inserts.

In the presence of adjustable lags, it is necessary to first check and mount the plastic fasteners, and then fix them to the concrete with dowels;

The space between the lags is filled with insulation, sound-absorbing materials.

Advice! It is convenient to find a high point with a level with a laser sight. But the tree needs to be treated with an antiseptic and water-repellent agents.Installation of a log in a stalinka or in a country house can be difficult, since the floors are rather weak and the logs are already fixed. In this case, you cannot do without professionals. The cost of specialist services depends on the complexity and volume of work, the approximate price is from $ 7 per m².Updating the coverage in a private old house, in a country house or in a stalinka can be done with your own hands and without any problems. At the same time, the cost will be much lower than when calling professionals. If only because the preliminary drawing up of the estimate and the designation of the price without inspection of the place of action is impossible. In addition, specialists can, starting work, find new defects and you simply do not have enough finances. But if the result is still important, and not the cost of the work, focus on the price from $ 15-25 per m².

Restoration of parquet floorboards in an old house is almost impossible, as no such product is made anymore. It's easier to replace the dies with something new;

The damaged concrete base will have to be cut down and poured. Here you cannot do without a team, find out the cost of work in advance, indicating that the service is required in the stalinka;

Rotting of the interfloor floor requires contacting the housing office - no professionals will take up work if this does not happen in the country. In multi-storey buildings, restoration work is carried out only with the approval of the management company;

Small cracks and crevices in the floorboards are sanded, putty and rubbed. It is important to choose a water-repellent putty and grout;

Large seams (over 6 mm) are removed by knocking down the boards. It is necessary to dismantle the coating, check the integrity of the logs, boards and “cushions” made of expanded clay and insulation. After that, start laying the boards. Each subsequent die is attached with a self-tapping screw to the previous one. Leaky boards can and should be replaced.

These are the simple procedures that will help to redecorate the floors and get rid of defects not only in country houses, but also in stalinka. Doing simple, light work with your own hands is a matter of time; for all other problems, the help of specialists is needed.As in other cases, repairing a floor in a wooden house consists of the following steps:

Coverage diagnostics;

Checking the rough flooring by dismantling the flooring, cleaning the old layer, flooring new materials for hydro, noise, thermal insulation, and, if necessary, filling in a new filler;

Laying the finished floor;

Finishing finish.

The cost of DIY work when restoring or replacing a small section of the floor will depend on the materials.With a complete dismantling by the services of specialists, work in the stalinka is highly valued. Prices start at $ 15 per m².