Desna washing machine DIY repair

"Baby" refers to devices with an activator, due to which its design is characterized by maximum simplicity. The principle of its operation is that the rotation of the rotor of the electric motor is transmitted to an activator - a disc, of a special shape, which mixes water and linen in the tank.

This machine cannot boast of an abundance of washing programs, as well as the presence of at least some kind of automation. Actually, the only thing that can be configured in the operation of the device is to set the washing time. The built-in timer will turn on itself and turn off the engine at the right time.

Since the machine is simple, the list of possible malfunctions is not very wide. Among the most common breakdowns:

• the engine hums for a long time and only after a while the activator starts to rotate;
• the activator disk turns slowly, often stops;
• during operation, the device makes a loud noise, tears the laundry during washing;
• water leaves the body or drain hose;
• the car does not turn on and does not react to the owner's actions;
• the hum of the engine is heard, but the activator does not spin;
• the machine turns on, the engine starts to run, but stops soon, there is a smell of burnt wiring.

The reasons that led to the occurrence of malfunctions are also not very diverse. Actually, all breakdowns can be divided into problems with the activator, with the electrical part and body parts.

In most cases, the repair of the Malyutka washing machine requires its complete or partial disassembly. A homemade key will help to significantly simplify the work. It doesn't take much time to make it.

To make the key, a piece of pipe with a length of about 20 cm is used. Two holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled in the pipe, symmetrically relative to its center, the distance between them is 95 mm. Bolts are screwed into the holes, they are fixed with nuts. Free thread will play the role of the working part of the key.

Structurally, the machine itself consists of two separate parts: an electric drive casing and a tank with a lid. To disassemble it, you need to follow a series of simple steps.

1. Remove the plug at the back of the casing. Turning the activator, align the hole in the casing with the hole in the impeller.
2. Stop the motor using a thin screwdriver.
3. Unscrew the activator with a homemade key.
4. Remove the six bolts that secure the shroud to the tank.
5. Remove the switch.
6. Unscrew the screws that tighten the cover.

The disassembly process is not particularly difficult, but it will not be superfluous to film every stage of the work on the phone's camera, this will help in the subsequent assembly.

There is no drum in the "Baby" type washing machines, its functions are performed by an activator. It rotates and mixes the laundry while performing the wash. Any malfunction, as a result of which the activator stops rotating or its rotation is difficult, leads to an interruption of the washing process. By the way, in the case of a slow rotation of the activator, the machine can be automatically turned off; due to engine overheating, a thermal relay is triggered.

There are three main faults associated with the operation of the activator. Below is a list of them with an indication of how to solve the problem.

1. There is more laundry in the tub than is allowed. The motor of an overloaded machine cannot turn the activator at normal speed, it overheats, the machine shuts down.

To solve the problem, unload the machine, leave it for 15 minutes, let the engine cool down, repeat the wash, but with less laundry.

1. The machine is not overloaded, but threads are wound around the activator shaft, preventing the normal operation of the machine.

In this case, disassembly is indispensable. You will have to remove the laundry, drain the water, disassemble the machine and remove threads and flaps that interfere with rotation.

1. Misalignment of the activator. Symptoms of this problem are that the machine tears things, or during operation, sounds of friction of the activator against the body are heard.

Complete disassembly required. Water is removed, the activator is removed. If the problem arose after a recent repair, during which the activator was incorrectly installed, you just need to tighten it again, if the problem appeared unexpectedly, you may have to change the activator itself.

Many owners of "Baby", having noticed a leak, do not attach much importance to it, they say, this is normal. Like, there is no need to worry, you just need to put the car in the bathroom, let it flow. This is the wrong approach. We must not forget that the washing machine is powered by electricity, a leak can cause a short circuit, in addition, the person who does the washing can be injured.

1. Damage to O-rings or flange seals.

Elimination of this breakdown requires partial disassembly of the machine. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the activator, remove the drive housing. Inspect the large ring carefully for damage. In case of loss of elasticity by rubber or violation of the integrity of the ring, it is changed.

Having unscrewed six bolts, disassemble the casing. Pull out the flange. It needs to be disassembled.The most common problems are caused by the loss of elasticity of the rubber seal. If so, you need to replace it. Also pay attention to the snap ring. Over time, it can weaken, which will lead to a loss of tightness of the assembly.

1. Damage to the drain hose or fitting.

The service life of the rubber hose is limited. Over time, the rubber cracks, water begins to pass through. It is not difficult to determine if the hose is damaged, as well as to replace it. Occasionally, there is a violation of the tightness at the place of its attachment. This problem is solved by replacing the clamp, you must first remember to clean the fitting from accumulated dirt and scale.

Washing machine "Baby" is made of plastic. Due to this, it has a small mass, but the plastic is not particularly durable. The slightest shock load is enough for a crack to form in the housing. Glue will help to get out of this situation, but you need to work extremely carefully. The inner surface of the machine must remain smooth, otherwise the wash will result in torn linen, and possibly a new depressurization of the tank.

Any of the components of the electrical circuit of the "Malyutka" washing machine may fail over time or its operation may be disrupted. The list of possible problems is not too wide, but you must be prepared for the fact that in order to solve them, you will have to completely disassemble the car.

Oddly enough, but this is not the worst car breakdown. The fact is that in most cases the cause of the malfunction is outside the device case.

First of all, it is worth checking the voltage at the outlet. To do this, you can use a simple probe or multimeter in voltage measurement mode. It is important not to forget to rearrange the switch to AC voltage mode, selecting the scale limit of 500V or more.

If there is no measuring device at home, you can use any electrical appliance to check that the outlet is working, temporarily turning it on.

Next, you need to make sure the integrity of the power cord. As a result of regular use, it frays, conductive conductors break. Most often, breakdowns occur near the plug and in the place where the wire enters the machine body.

It is better to replace the damaged cable immediately. Use any punched wire, even if it is carefully insulated, is life-threatening, especially if it is a wire from a washing machine that is operated in high humidity conditions.

If the socket and wire are checked, and the device still does not work, you must proceed to disassembly, followed by checking the engine and the details of the connection diagram.

It's worth starting by checking the integrity of the connecting conductors. You can't do without a multimeter. With a switch, it is transferred to the resistance measurement mode, each conductor is called. Along the way, it is worth examining the places of their connections. The constant humidity in which the machine is operated contributes to oxidation of the contacts, which can cause engine failure.

Suspicious conductors (with blackened insulation, covered with a thick layer of oxide), terminals, as well as visible damage to circuit elements must be replaced immediately. To connect new wires, it is better to use connecting pads, connect the parts by soldering, not forgetting to use heat shrink insulation.

Often the time relay is the cause of a machine failure. It is unlikely that you will be able to repair it yourself, it is easier and more logical to buy a new one. The same applies to the switch.

The thermal relay can also cause the engine to reluctance to turn on. They test him cold. Connect a multimeter to the terminals in ohmmeter mode, if it shows a break, the relay is changed.

If the machine does not turn on and there is a characteristic odor near the drive housing, the cause may be in the engine. The list of its possible malfunctions is extensive, this is a winding break, its short circuit, breakdown. It will definitely not be possible to repair the engine at home.You can consider rewinding it, but it is economically impractical.

There is only one reasonable way out of this situation - to buy a new one. It should be noted that the price of a new engine is commensurate with the price of the car itself, there is something to think about.

Repairing a washing machine, even something as simple as "Baby", is far from the most pleasant thing. It is also worth noting that malfunctions occur at the most inopportune moment - you need to erase, but instead you have to look for the cause of the breakdown, fix it. To avoid premature failure of the "Baby", you should adhere to a number of simple rules:

• do not heat water with a boiler directly in the machine;
• install it only on a flat surface, do not use it in the bath;
• monitor the machine during washing, in case of appearance of third-party odors or tingling when touching the case, immediately turn it off, find the cause of the malfunction and repair it.

Let the "Malyutka" washing machine become outdated for a long time, with good care and timely repair it can still serve. She has no place in a modern house, but in the country, or in a rented apartment, in the conditions of frequent moves, she is still one of the best options.

Small-sized non-automatic washing machines do not have a squeezing device and are designed for washing 0.75. 1.5 kg dry laundry. It is advisable to use them for washing small items (baby clothes, handkerchiefs, socks). During operation, the machine is placed on a chair or stool. Washing takes place under the influence of intensive circulation of soap solution, which penetrates between the layers and pores of the matter without mechanical effect on it. The circulation of the soap solution is created by vortex movements excited by the activator. Thanks to the swirling motion of the solution, the laundry is continuously rotated in different directions, which contributes to its even and thorough washing. The water after washing is drained by gravity, and the spinning of the laundry is done manually or in an autonomous centrifuge.

By design, small-sized machines can be divided into three categories:

• non-automatic with a vertical arrangement of the activator ("Baby", "Desna", "Samara");
• non-automatic with horizontal and bottom location of the activator ("Fairy", "Mini-Vyatka");
• automatic (Tefal).

A typical non-automatic small-sized washing machine (Fig. 1) includes a tank, a lid and a casing in which the electrical equipment of the machine is installed: a motor, capacitors, a protective thermal relay.

The tank, lid and casing are made of plastic. The disk activator is located on the side inside the tank. The activator is driven by an electric motor.

The shaft of the activator is connected directly to the shaft of the electric motor, due to which the rotational speed of the activator is equal to the rotational speed of the shaft of the electric motor. The electric motor is fixed to the tank wall with screws covered with electrically insulating sealing putty. On the side of the cover there is a power switch for the machine, and in the bottom of the tank there is a hole for draining the detergent solution. The drain connection can be closed with a special plastic plug or connected to the end of the drain hose, the other end of which, when the machine is running, is fixed in the slot at the upper edge of the tank. There is a special mark to control the water level in the tank. Lid prevents liquid splashing during washing
and rinsing the laundry and is attached to the tank body with latches.

Technical characteristics of small-sized non-automatic washing machines are given in table. one.

Disassembling the Malyutka washing machine is as easy as shelling pears, as its structure is clear and straightforward. The biggest effort you will have to make when disassembling is making the key. Next, we will describe in detail the nuances of disassembling machines "Baby" and describe in detail how to make a key.

It doesn't matter why you decide to disassemble the machine - for repair or for parts, there will still be a certain difficulty. None of the existing keys can parse it. During the years of crazy demand for "Baby", home craftsmen and craftsmen broke a mountain of keys, but later came up with a solution and began to make the key on their own. Since then, the era of quick disassembly of the "Baby" washing machines has begun. We will definitely share with you the secret of making a key. Arm yourself with this set:

• A tube with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm. A square steel profile is also suitable - 20 cm in length is enough.
• Pliers.
• A screwdriver.
• Drill.
• A drill for metal 6 mm.
• A pair of 6x50 mm bolts and a pair of nuts for them.

If you are a thrifty craftsman, then you may not have to buy anything and all of the above can be found on the balcony, in the garage or closet.

Attention! Make the key outside the house - where there is a vise and a workbench, or even better - a drilling machine. But you can also drill a hole with a drill.

1. Measure the distance between the holes of the activator, in which the fasteners are located. It is about 95 mm. It is necessary to drill 2 holes in the tube equal to this distance.

Important! If there is no machine and you are drilling using a drill, clamp the reinforcement in a vice. Make the marks with a center punch, and then start drilling.

Before disassembling the Baby Machine, you made a key, and now you don't need anything else. Open the lid of the washer, remove the hoses and remove anything that might get in the way. Cover the floor with film or newspapers, put the typewriter on its side and you can start disassembling: Before disassembling the Malyutka typewriter, you made a key, and now you will not need anything else. Open the lid of the washer, remove the hoses and remove anything that might get in the way. Cover the floor with plastic wrap or newspapers, put the typewriter on its side and you can start disassembling:

• First you need the back of the car. On it you will find a plastic plug - pick it up with a thin screwdriver and remove.
• Next, roll up the impeller, turning so that its hole coincides with the one on the casing.
• Insert a thin screwdriver or spoke into the rotor of the electric motor. This is necessary to keep the motor stuck.
• Take a key of your own manufacture and unscrew the activator, at the same time removing the case.

Attention! The side into which the activator is unscrewed may be different for each model of the Baby. Be careful not to damage the threads.

• The tank is held in place by six brackets. Remove each one in turn.
• Remove the flange.
• Remove the seal and washer. Unscrew the fasteners that hold the parts of the machine body.
• All that is left is to remove the motor.

Disassembly of the Baby washing machine was successful!

If you have planned a repair, and after disassembly you will also need to assemble the SM, then do not forget to capture your every step in the photo. It is difficult to remember where which part was, and even more so - the location of the wiring. The photo will help you put the Baby back together without any problems. Also, do not exert too much effort when working with a tool. The "delicate" plastic body and rubber gaskets are not too resistant to damage. Rubber components can be easily damaged by careless movement of a sharp screwdriver, and pliers can rip off the edges of fasteners. This will only add extra trouble to yourself. Be careful, successful renovation! Finally, we recommend a video. It will help you figure out how to disassemble the Baby washer:

Rice. one The design of the washing machine Malyutka 2

Washing machine "Malyutka-2" consists of a tank 9 (Fig. 1), a tank lid 8 and a casing consisting of two halves 25 and 31 with rubber gaskets 30 and 20, fastened together by screws 26 and 29 with bushings 28. Screw heads closed with rubber plugs 27.The casing contains: an electric motor 32, a relay 17, a capacitor 22 and a switch 33, which is attached to the casing by a nut 35 with a washer 34 and a rubber nut 36. The connecting cord 47 passes into the casing through a rubber protective tube 48.

The casing has a threaded flange 12, onto which the body b of the activator 2 is screwed. A collar 5 is installed in the flange to prevent the liquid from escaping. An activator is screwed onto the motor shaft. The flange 12 is attached to the electric motor with screws 11. The bushing 37 of the tank drain hole is either closed with a plastic plug 41, or, as required, a drain tube 44 with a nozzle 43 is put on it to attach it to the tank of the machine. At the other end of the drain tube, a tip 45 is fixed. The threaded sleeve is attached to the tank with a plastic nut 40 with a rubber ring 39. A gasket 38 is installed on the threaded sleeve.

The machine is supplied with a tubing 46 and pliers 42. The tank lid has a -1 seal. The activator support consists of a plastic body 6, a steel sleeve 7, a rubber cuff 5, a steel spring 4 and a rubber gasket 3. A rubber ring is installed between the activator body b and the flange 12 10. A rubber sleeve 14, a plastic nut 13 and a steel washer are put on the motor shaft. 15. The thermal relay 17 is secured with a clamp 16. The capacitor 22 is attached to the platform 23 with clamps 21 and 24 with screws 18 and nuts 19.

Note: on machines manufactured before 1985, an activator with a left-hand thread is installed, since 1986 - with a right-hand thread.

The electrical diagram of the washing machine is shown in Baby 2 in Fig. 1 on the right.

Remove the plug from the hole at the back of the motor cover. By turning the activator 1 (Fig. 2), align the oblong hole of the plastic impeller with the hole in the casing. Insert a screwdriver through the hole in the casing and the impeller until it stops into the rotor of the electric motor, locking it. Unscrew the activator. Insert a special key into hole A of the activator body 8 (the description of the key is given below) and unscrew the activator body. Disconnect the tank. Unscrew six screws 3 and remove flange 2 with parts 10, 9, 4, b, 7.

Unscrew the lock nut 35 (Fig. 1) and the rubber nut 36 securing the switch 33, and remove the washer 34. Unscrew the screws 29 that tighten the casing halves 25 and 31 and remove them. Under the casing, in addition to the electric motor 32, other items of equipment are located. All of them are indicated on the wiring diagram (see Fig. 1 on the right).

The assembly of the machine is carried out in the reverse order, but the following features must be taken into account. When installing electrical equipment in the machine body, pay particular attention to the location of the installation wires. There should not be a short circuit between conductive elements, in addition, electrical wires should not be stretched and pinched.

It is necessary to carefully tuck the rubber profiles of the casing around the entire perimeter of the connection with the casing.

Rice. 2... Unit of activator of the washing machine Baby 2:

1 - activator; 2, 6 - flanges; 3 - screw; 4 - a sealing ring; 5 - activator shaft; 7 - bushing; 8 - activator body; 9 - cuff; 10 - a sealing ring; 11 - bushing

Next, install the collar 9 (Fig. 2) into the socket of the flange 2. A loose, skewed seating of the cuff will cause fluid to flow out of the tank of the machine. Flange 2 is installed pre-assembled with parts 10, 9, 11, 6, 7, 5 and secured by evenly tightening the screws 3. Drain hole B of the flange should be located at the bottom. The activator body 8 must be screwed onto the flange 2 until the O-ring 4 is firmly pressed against the tank wall. Install a washer, nut and locknut on the switch.

A special wrench for removing and installing the activator body can be made from a piece of water pipe. Its length should be 100.150 mm larger than the diameter of the activator body.

Drill two holes with a diameter of 6 mm through the pipe body, symmetrically with respect to the center of the pipe.The distance between the holes should be 95 mm. Insert screws in these holes so long that they protrude from the pipe by 10.15 mm. Securely fasten the screws to the pipe with nuts - and the wrench is ready.

The washing machine is no longer a luxury item for modern housewives. Today this "workhorse" is installed in almost every, even the most modest home. But no matter how modern and wonderful household appliances may seem, they still tend to break. The easiest way in such a situation, of course, is to invite a specialist who will quickly fix the malfunction. True, it will not be cheap.

But you can do it differently. It is not so difficult to repair a washing machine yourself. You don't need to have any special skills for this. You just need to carefully understand the structure of the washing machine and understand the principle of its operation. Therefore, if your washing machine breaks down, then, after carefully reading this article, you can fix at least half of the unpleasant situations with your own hands. So let's get started.

All household washing units not only have a similar device, but work on the same principle.