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I have been reading articles for a long time and finally decided to write myself about my motorcycle and the history of its repair with modifications. Maybe I can help someone.
Ignition. Replaced with a contactless one with a Hall sensor from a VAZ, an electronic switch 0529.3734 [VTN] - VAZ 2101-2109 and a coil for the 406th Gazelle engine. I tested this ignition system on Jupiter and simply transferred it to the Dnieper. I fixed the switch under the saddle,
Butter. I thought about this question for a long time. Rummaged through the entire Internet. As a result, I realized that everyone fills in what he considers acceptable. In the selection of oil, I proceeded from the operating conditions, taking into account the technical features of the units. I used AZh-12T in shock absorbers, which seems to be good. In the engine - Lukoil mineral 20W50, even in winter (-10) all the rules. The gearbox and gearbox are also LUKOIL TRANSMISSION TM-4 80W-90 (API GL-4), here I selected the class according to the year the engine was manufactured (well, we know what year the design of our parasites is))))). On the topic of oil selection, there is a lot of useful information on the internet, you just need to find and study. And to fill in like "real guys" working off and say that everything is okay. great - this is the choice of everyone.
Skated the 2014 season without incident, very pleased with the improvements. The oil pressure, by the way, at idle - 3.6 kg, rises with an increase in revolutions up to 5 kg and is released by the reducer. Infernal compression))) The brakes now work always and without problems. Turn signals also do not refuse. Of the minuses - the pallet gasket is leaking and from the box somewhere, most likely the input shaft oil seal. I don’t want to, but I can get into the cylinder head to check the valves-guide-valve seals, then there will be a review about this revision.
In the fall, the generator began to scoff at low voltage, now I am looking for a replacement for an auto donor, possibly a Daewoo Tico or a tractor G-1000. Tapered bearings in the steering column “http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390566473437” have already arrived. I also ordered new indicators for the panel - “http://russian.alibaba.com/product-gs/warning-light-switches-12v-led-indicator-light-dia-22mm-637261532.html”. I want to replace the fuse box with a car type “https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2389/node/59130”, replace the headlight, weld the front frame onto the stroller and put a fog lamp, install a trunk on the stroller. In the end, after all, make a normal windscreen with glass - there are 2 glasses from Izhevsk strollers. At the same time, there are plans to make a clutch disc with progressive characteristics, as comrade Shlans recommends. Aside from the generator, the biggest problem today is the frame. More precisely the workmanship. Bad seams and the steering column is bent, like many owners of Dnepr 89-91 onwards. Now I'm looking for a frame up to 86 onwards. so as not to mess with this one.
Of course we need photos, everything will be, I promise.
Insufficient synchronization in engine operation means that one of the cylinders is showing more intensive work than the other. This can lead to the fact that the cylinder, which shows more powerful work, can very quickly wear out and fail. Do-it-yourself Ural engine repair. The timing of the carburetors is clearly visible when the motorcycle is idling. Synchronization of motorcycle carburettors occurs when the same operation of two cylinders is provided. Simply put, a motorcycle carburetor synchronizer is obtained by raising the throttle, both in the left and in the right carburetor, by switching ... >>> Read more
Adjusting the fork clearance is a fairly simple, but very important task in repair work. You can watch a video on fork repair in the Urals. In view of the fact that the wheel suspension on Dnepr motorcycles is made in the form of a telescopic fork, its correct adjustment will provide the necessary fork outreach for the normal movement of the motorcycle. Dismantling the front fork of the Dnepr motorcycle, like the Dnepr motorcycle, shows that a shock absorber is located inside the fork itself, and the distance between the upper part of the spring and the locknut is approximately 0.4 mm. The motorcycle fork is adjusted as follows: dismantle the front wheel, then unscrew the nut that secures the pipes to the motorcycle structure. We take out of this pipe ... >>> Read more
Adjusting the carburetors of the Ural and Dnepr motorcycle is not difficult, like the repair itself, but important. The brands, appearance, structure and details in motorcycles change from year to year. Including evolution affects carburetors, the constant improvement of which does not take long. I wonder where the carburetor is on the motorcycle?
The carburetor as a structural element is intended for mixing gasoline with air, as well as for the subsequent supply of an appropriate amount of it to the carburetors on the Dnepr motorcycle engine cylinder. The regulation process itself can be ... >>> Read more
During the life of the motorcycle, there is a possibility that the valves will need to be replaced. Lapping the valves in the Ural Motorcycle is an important matter. The question may arise, how to grind valves on a Dnepr motorcycle? The process of replacing the valve itself involves preliminary cleaning the cylinder head to such a state that it is possible to achieve the maximum tightness of its fit to the seat. These early tricks are essential for the correct operation of the engine.
The most important point in which the adjustment of the valves of the Dnepr motorcycle and others lies is the correct setting of the clearances. If you overdid it a little and the gap turned out to be large, then there will be a clinking at the heads, if, on the contrary, the gap turned out to be too small, then the rods may begin to bend. The adjustment of the valves on the Dnepr motorcycle should be done after each manipulation of the assembly of the cylinders and heads, which must be securely fastened and tightened. Many people ask themselves how to set the valve to ... >>> Read more
The check of the ignition system, first of all, occurs from the initial check of the breaker performance. It is important to pay attention to the operation of the incendiary advance machine, in which the presence of various complaints is undesirable. The resistance of the primary winding, which is measured by the tester, must be at least 6 ohms. Next, the secondary winding is checked, for which the tester is connected to high voltage connections.The voltage of such a winding must be exactly ... >>> Read more
Repair and adjustment of ignition on a motorcycle Dnipro
Before starting all the manipulations to adjust the candles, you should pay attention to their external condition. They must be clean, without the slightest deposit of carbon deposits. Next, we make adjustments by alternately bending or unbending the candle contacts. With these actions, we reach the desired 0.5 mm in diameter - this is exactly the gap we need.
As in the case with candles, pay attention to the state of the breaker contacts. If there is any dirt on them ... >>> Read more
As soon as you are faced with the problem of lack of charging, you should not rush to dispose of the generator. The implementation of fairly simple, but effective methods will allow you to reanimate the generator without additional financial costs. By adhering to simple rules, you can quite effectively repair the device on your own.
First of all, you will need to dismantle the generator parts and clean them of dirt ... This is followed by a check of the condition of the ball-type bearings: a test for the engagement of the armature to the stator. The course of the brushes must be free in the places where the brushes are held. The next stage - the production of rings is checked ... >>> Read more
Often, watching the engine overrun by my friends, it is not uncommon for a problem situation to arise: when I have already coped with the removal of parts from the engine and all that remains is to remove the crankshaft, unfortunately, this cannot be done. In reality, it is really difficult to remove it, and especially when there is no clear idea of how to implement it. In order to avoid this kind of problem, I will try to explain how to cope with the crankshaft.
To remove the crankshaft, you will need the following:
The quality of the clutch is important for a motorcycle. This will require correct adjustment of the drive train. When the drive cable is taut enough , then the slipping of the clutch will be traced, if, on the contrary, the clutch is leading.
In the event of a failure of the starting device, as a rule, due to a breakdown of the starting spring or its exit from the bushing. In this situation, the clutch of a motorcycle Ural lever will not return automatically to its initial position, however, it can easily be resorted to a mechanical method of lifting up ... >>> Read more
Once you are faced with the problem of unsatisfactory gear shifting, then you should be on your guard. Probably, this can be attributed to the breakage of the gears of the box. ... When the latter is not a problem, then you can turn to the adjustment of the gearbox with the screws located on the box near the base of the lever.
Here you shouldn't panic and rush to turn the screws. However, checking the condition of the balls and holes for the nature of breakdowns is still worth organizing a gearbox for a Ural motorcycle, do not forget to look at the health of the shift sector. If the situation inspires confidence in the reliability, then ... >>> Read more
As the saying goes, "We are responsible for what we have tamed."
The situation is the same with a motorcycle. Like any other technical device, the vehicle will require service. As a rule, services of this nature will be required every 2 thousand kilometers.
Services of a service nature can be performed, as a rule, at a service station, but it is always possible to perform them yourself. However, for this ... >>> Read more
It is often not uncommon when, during the operation of a two-wheeled friend, problems of various types are noticed in his work, for example, knocking, then you should not be afraid. The best solution in this situation is to carefully read the options below to fix the problem. The knocking pattern can be described as metallic or dry. The appearance of knocking can be triggered by starting the engine of the Dnieper motorcycle and decreasing as it warms up.This knock also appears in a situation where fingers are caught at the top ... >>> Read more
It is not uncommon for your "iron Horse" does not function as expected by the manufacturing plant, or even worse - refuses to work at all. However, "does not work" - the concept is quite cumulative, or as they say, the motorcycle does not start "every family is unhappy in its own way ...". In this regard, let's analyze problems of various kinds for faults ... >>> Read more
Repair of the Dnepr 11 motorcycle heads, replacing the guide bushings of the Dnepr head with Zhiguli ones, replacing the piston on the Dnepr, lapping the valves of the Dnepr motorcycle. The MT10-32 engine of the Dnepr11 motorcycle.
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Video Motorcycle Dnepr 11. Prevention of the Dnepr engine. Partial repair of the Dnieper engine. channel Sit down and watch! RSV
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Chip tuning of various cars such as VAZ, GAZ, UAZ, Daewoo, Hyundai, KIA, Chev.
Optimization of the software reduces fuel consumption, increases engine power.
Car manufacturers are deliberately overpricing their spare parts because they think Thu.
Recently, more and more people are trying to modernize the old Soviet technology. So I got such a project, with the installation of a modern power supply and ignition system on a Dnipro motorcycle. We decided to install an Abit injection system on this motorcycle. What we got is described below. We will consider the specifics of installing an injector on a Dnipro or Ural motorcycle in a separate article, but in this description there is a detailed description of the project and the features of modernization and tuning of these motorcycles.
I did not wear the valve stem seals. New valves were bought, the seats were cut for them. After trimming, everything was perfectly worn down.
They were replaced with springs from the VAZ 2108, they had to grind their own Dnieper plates under them.
Then the flywheel was tormented, a good part of the meat was removed from it, after modifications its weight was 2.5 kg.
38mm, the tide under the guide is partially removed, bored with a drill with a milling nozzle.
Well, under such a shaft, the pushers should not be simple, especially since I did not like my relatives for two reasons: 1) they work directly on the crankcase 2) they have a mass of as much as 100 grams. I made the pushers from Ural, machined aluminum bodies under an interference fit of 0.05 into the Dnieper crankcase and milled a groove for greasing the heads.
Well, it seems that that's all, can you collect it? Collected, rejoiced for three weeks. But then I accidentally saw an advertisement for the sale of ECU January 4.1, then I still did not understand what I was getting in touch with and there was no one to stop me. Ebu came to me from Kirov in 2 weeks. Then the work on the injector began to boil: the first question was how to make a synchrodisk? Having looked at all parts of the motor, the easiest way I found was to make windows in the flywheel, well, after 2 days it was born with just a file and a drill. DPKV set from a vase.
Phase sensor too. In general, further all the sensors were VAZ. The next stage was the inlet: it was welded from stainless pipes with a diameter of 38 and 51 mm.
Then I decided to put the starter on. I drew a drawing, and soon they made a gear set of 45 steel with a hardened tooth. But oh, horror, after trying on the starter, the inlet did not get up ... I had to redo it. After the alteration, everything began to slowly gather. I also made a tee with an RTD that replaces the fuel rail.
Actually, for those parts, I will stop and switch to the exterior. The appearance was also born in suffering, at first it turned out as it happened, then the wing was shortened, the shock absorber mountings were digested, etc.
I putty for a long time, took it out, welded the fuel pump into the tank, and so on. In general, I will post a photo of how and what happened. I painted myself, paint "Sickens", I took a spray gun in my hands for the first time. It didn’t seem to be bad.
Here we go? And so, the first start, everything is connected, we turn on the power, we turn on the ignition iiiiii ... and bummer, the gas pump pumps without stopping, there is no spark, the nozzles also do not click. To say that I am upset is to say nothing ... Well, I must somehow live, in the box was a mono injection from the cornfield, prepared for my Volkswagen, so I decided to try it with it. I collected everything, after turning on the power, the gas pump turned off as expected after 3 seconds, the nozzles responded to scrolling, there was also a spark, but the engine did not start. What I didn’t do, no matter how I twisted, there are distinct flashes, the motor grabs, but does not start. I was tormented, tormented, but never started. In general, there was already an idea to switch to Carbs, but the Russians do not give up! Wandering on the Internet, I got to this site, after which, after discussing all the nuances with Sergei, it was decided to continue the construction on the "Corvette" control unit of the ABIT company. Here's what we have today. The receiver is made of a piece of aluminum profile, the throttle of the VAZ 2112. Soon the assembly will end and the firmware rollback will begin.
Build with your own hands. Technology and techniques for the construction and repair of dwellings. Feedback on the work of electronic circuits. Life stories. Photo gallery and video.
So when assembling, I doubted where to put the marked crankshaft gear tooth - before or after the marked tooth. Therefore, it was placed after the 12th tooth of the camshaft (Photo 3).
Then on the Internet I found a description of the repair and films on YouTube that explained how to correctly set the teeth in engagement of the crankshaft and camshaft in the absence of marks on the gears, as well as in cases of their incorrect application, which corresponded to my case. I again disassembled the corresponding part of the motor, and according to the recommendations of Internet sources, I counted the teeth of the gears according to the descriptions and put a mark after the 13th tooth on the camshaft gear (the first is considered a tooth against a key) see Photo 1. Then I also found two pairs of gears with marks and matched my marks. There was no doubt about the correctness of the marking, the marks were applied correctly and the motor was assembled again and, as they say, success was ensured (Photo 4).
After assembly and adjustment, the motor began to start easily, easily respond to adjusting the quality of the mixture in the carburetors, gain speed well, good traction appeared and did not overheat. That was the story. Maybe someone else will use my experience! I wish you a successful renovation! And if my article helped you to repair the engine and you have a desire, then you can thank me for this article.
Homemade cars, tractors, ATVs and ATVs
Project "Brigadier" built on the basis of the Dnepr-11 motorcycle: photo and description of a custom bike.
As planned, the author decided to make a brutal motorcycle with a dynamic design and implement a concept that emphasizes the beauty and aesthetics of metal in its various forms (pure iron, aluminum, copper, chrome, corrosion), while harmoniously combining it with an old-school aggregate base.
The author used mainly Soviet-made parts, devices and accessories:
Engine, frame, rear wheel, steering wheel from Dnepr 11.
Fork, front wheel, shock absorbers, tank, speedometer from Izh.
Front headlight, unions on the tank for the fuel level meter from the Belarus tractor.
Rear headlight, brake light, license plate light, oil pressure device from a Zil 164 truck.
Homemade glass fiber saddle.
In the process of work, each element separately had to be sorted out, adjusted both in color and in shape, so that all this would look whole and put together made up the character of the motorcycle.
Motorcycle "Dnepr-11" (Fig. 1) - a road vehicle of a heavy class - is operated only with a side trailer. The motorcycle is designed to carry a driver, two passengers and cargo with a total weight of no more than 260 kg and can be operated on roads with different surfaces and without cover in different climatic zones and weather conditions.
To improve the traction and dynamic characteristics and reliability of the engine, changes have been made to its design: the camshaft and the oil pump have been improved. When studying this manual, it is additionally necessary to be guided by the instruction manual for the battery.
^ SAFETY REQUIREMENTS AND WARNINGS
Attention! During the first 2,500 km of run, the main running-in of parts takes place in all the mechanisms of the motorcycle. During this period, overloading the engine and exceeding the speed of the motorcycle in excess of those given in the section "Running in a new motorcycle" is unacceptable. It is prohibited to shorten the period after which the carburetor choke lift limiters should be removed. When using leaded gasoline for the engine, it must be remembered that it is very poisonous. Therefore, it is not allowed to use it indoors. Before removing carbon deposits from the surfaces of the combustion chambers of the cylinder heads, piston crowns and valve heads, the carbon deposits should be cleaned with kerosene or liquid oil - this will prevent the formation of lead dust. Do not use an open flame to illuminate or heat the oil in the crankcase of motorcycle units. Remember that engine exhaust gases are poisonous. Therefore, the room in which the engine is started and warmed up must be well ventilated.
^ CONTROL MECHANISMS AND INSTRUMENTS
The location of the motorcycle controls and control devices is shown in Fig. 2.Combined switch 13 is designed to control the high-low beam (LONG-LARGE switch), direction indicators (ROTATE switch) and a sound signal (button). The direction indicator switch has three positions: middle - neutral (direction indicators are off) and two extreme positions, at which the direction indicators on the right or left side of the motorcycle are turned on. Combined switch 7 is designed to turn on day and night mode consumers (LIGHT switch) and emergency ignition off (ENGINE STOP switch). The LIGHT switch has three positions: right extreme - side (parking) lights and dipped headlights are off; middle - side (parking) lights are on; left extreme - side lights and low beam headlights are on.
1 - ignition lock; 2 - control lamp of the emergency oil pressure sensor; 3 - speedometer; 4 - indicator lamp for direction indicators; 5 - steering damper; 6 - front brake lever; 7 - combined switch (LIGHT switch and emergency ignition switch); 8 - throttle control knob; 9 - brake pedal of the rear wheel and the side trailer wheel; 10 - handle for engaging reverse gear; 11 - trigger lever, mechanism; 12 - gear shift pedal; 13 - combined switch (turning on the high and low beam headlights, direction indicators, sound signal); 14 - clutch control lever; 15 - steering wheel; 16 - a lamp of a control indicator of neutral of a transmission; 17 - lamp for control operation of the generator and battery charge; 18 - high beam control lamp
When you turn the knob "away from you", the throttles are lowered, the amount of the combustible mixture entering the cylinders decreases, and the engine crankshaft speed decreases. The throttle travel of a new non-rolled engine is limited by stops. Do not use force to overcome the resistance of the stops, as this can cause the cable to break. The brake pedal 9 for the rear wheel and the side trailer wheel is located on the right side of the frame. The front brake lever 6 is located on the right side of the steering wheel. It is recommended to use the front brake in conjunction with the brake of the rear wheel and the side trailer wheel. The handle 10 for engaging the reverse gear has two positions: reverse - the gear is off and forward - the gear is on. The trigger lever 11 is used to start the engine and is located on the left side of the motorcycle. The gear shift pedal 12 is located on the left side of the gearbox and has two support pads. On one, when changing gears, the toe of the driver's foot is placed, on the other - the heel. When the pedal is pressed with the toe, gears are switched from higher to lower and 1st gear is switched on from the main neutral position, when pressed with the heel, from lower to higher. Gear shifting is shown in fig. 4.
Each time the pedal is pressed, it returns to its original position. As the pedal deviates from the middle position, the clutch release process also takes place. Lever 14 (Fig. 2) controls the clutch. Pressing the lever disengages the clutch. Returning the lever to its original position engages the clutch. The clutch is used when starting off, when braking, when shifting gears. The lock of the anti-theft device is in the spare parts bag. It is installed in the housing located on the left of the steering column. To do this, put a spring on the rod of the lock insert, insert the insert into the lock body and fasten the body cover with a rivet. The lock is closed by turning the key clockwise with the simultaneous drowning of the liner, having previously turned the steering wheel to the right until it stops. To avoid breakage of the lock, turning the steering wheel and moving the motorcycle with the key inserted into the lock is not allowed.
^ A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DEVICE AND OPERATION OF THE MOTORCYCLE UNITS, THEIR REGULATION AND MAINTENANCE
Engine (fig.5, 6, 7) in terms of design features and technical indicators belongs to the category of forced motorcycle engines of the road type. The horizontal arrangement of the cylinders provides good cooling and balance of the crank mechanism. Each cylinder has a separate carburetor, which improves starting and engine power.
Rice. 5. Engine (cross section) :
1 - barbell; 2 - sealing cap; 3 - engine crankcase; 4 - pusher; 5 - breather outlet tube; 6 - special nut; 7 - high voltage wire, 8 - cylinder gasket; 9 - crankshaft with connecting rods; 10 - pallet; 11 - pallet gasket; 12 - drainage tube; 13 - oil scraper ring; 14 - compression ring; 15 - piston; 16 - piston pin; 17 - retaining ring; 18 - spring; 19 - pusher guide; 20 - pusher
Rice. 7. Engine (horizontal section):
1 - cylinder head cover; 2 - head cover gasket; 3 - the head of the right cylinder with valves; 4 - cylinder head gasket; o - right carburetor; 6 - cylinder; 7 - filler plug; 8-rubber stopper; 9 - rod casing; 10-left carburetor; 11- carburetor gasket; 12 - the head of the left cylinder with valves; 13 - spark plug; 14 - generator gasket; 15 - emergency oil pressure sensor; 16 - piston with rings and a pin; 17 - piston pin retaining ring; 18 - inlet valve; 19 - exhaust pipe fastening nut; 20 - valve stem tip; 21 - right side link. 22 - outlet valve; 23 - adjusting bolt, 24 - lock nut, 25 - lower plate; 26 - external valve spring; 27 - internal valve spring; 28 - top plate; 29 - left rocker; 30 - rusk
Maintenance of the crank mechanism
During daily maintenance, you should clean the crankcase, cylinders and cylinder heads from dirt and dust, paying attention to the cleanliness of the fins (fins clogged with dirt impair engine cooling), watch out for oil leaks in the engine crankcase. If the tightness is broken due to improper installation or destruction of paper or rubber gaskets, stuffing box seals, air is leaked and the pressure in the engine crankcase rises, which leads not only to oil leakage at the connectors and through the stuffing box seals, but also to premature oil contamination and increased wear of parts engine. After 10,000 km of run, it is necessary to clean the combustion chambers of the cylinder heads, pistons, piston rings and valves from carbon deposits. If carbon deposits are present in the engine, knocking knocks may occur, which will shorten the life of the engine. If the oil consumption in the engine exceeds 0.25 1 per 100 km of run, the piston rings must be replaced.
The gas distribution mechanism regulates the opening and closing of the exhaust and intake valves at the necessary times, corresponding to a certain angle of rotation of the crankshaft. The gas distribution mechanism consists of a camshaft 3 (Fig. 8), pushers 4 (Fig. 5), rods 1, rocker arms 21 (Fig. 7) and 29, adjusting bolts 23, locknuts 24, exhaust 22 and intake 18 valves with tips 20 , springs 26, 27, support plates 25, 28 and crackers 30. In the front part of the camshaft there is a driven gear 2 (Fig. 8), which engages the driving gear 4 of the distribution mechanism and gear 1 of the generator drive. The camshaft is installed in the engine crankcase on two ball bearings 19 (Fig. 6) and 23. Correct timing is ensured by aligning the marks on the camshaft gears 2 (Fig. 8) and 4 during assembly. The engine can be equipped with pushers of a different design (see pos. 17, 18, 19 and 20 Fig. 5), the working end of which is welded with a special alloy. When the engine is in operation, it is possible for carbides and borides to chip out from the deposited working surface of the pusher to a depth of 0.35 mm, which does not have a negative effect on the performance of the pair: cam-pusher.
1 - generator gear; 2 - driven camshaft gear; 3 - camshaft; 4 - distribution leading gear; 5 - gear wheel of the oil pump drive; I-marks
I work further and this is an essay and a memo, probably for me and for those who will also analyze everything ...
In short, if you want to put the motorcycle in full order with your own hands (in my case, this is still the engine and the gearbox, the rest of the hands just did not reach)
To begin with (if you are a city person and you have the opportunity to spend 50+ thousand wooden ones on a hobby, then we go to the market if you do not have a tool)
You will also need
At the Dnieper, 2 halves of the tank are connected by a hose that runs under the frame and when the tank is lifted from its place, this damn hose is removed and the fuel starts pouring, I almost got a big boom with a kebab out of me, as it doused me notoriously.
Here comes the moment of understanding how much strength you have and whether someone can help you.
The engine hangs on 2 studs that pass through the engine from below, depending on the torture, I recommend to clean it, lubricate it with a brush and heat it to 150-300 degrees. Then the nuts will be removed with a bang, we knock out the studs from the side of the stroller if that)))
Before dismantling the studs, walk in a circle and make sure that everything is removed.
In principle, we simply remove the engine further.
1. We unscrew the pallet and get ready to see a bunch of gauns that will either flow or remain as jellied meat. VERY VERY IMPORTANT , the center of the puller should rest against anything but the shafts (you can screw the bolts onto the shafts and then if you do not do this, then the shafts will flare and may burst.
5. Probably your hands are already itching to try an impact screwdriver, but it's time to take a rubber hammer, a flat regular impact screwdriver and two small mounts)))
Now remove the guitar with the pry bars. Very neatly, it is fragile, but it can be removed just like mine, and this is not rare as I understood
It is very easy to remove the bearing in the photo below you can see two factory holes that are needed for these purposes, old valves are ideal for knocking out, only the tip of the valve must be reduced; it is better to use a sharpener (we reduce the diameter to the narrowest part as for crackers and to a depth of 2-25 cm) then it will be enough to knock out the bearing. By lightly tapping on the valve, we knock out the bearing, changing the points for pressing out one or the other.
To remove this thing you need LEFT SIDE .
Since all the bearings I put are Japanese, I will put them like this.
Video (click to play).
For now, there will be a part of the report on the assembly of the engine and the report on the box, I confess I haven't started yet.
