Drainage float pumps in terms of their functionality surpass any other types of pumping equipment, so their failure in a suburban economy can cause a lot of problems. Wasting time and money giving a broken pump to a workshop is irrational, and if the site with a house is located in a sparsely populated area, then it is problematic. Therefore, it is useful for the owners of drainers to know how to repair a drainage pump with their own hands in the event of a breakdown.
Fig. 1 Drainers with float water level switch
Do-it-yourself repair of drainage pumps can be done using the simplest tool in the form of a vise, a rubber hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, a soldering iron, it is useful to have consumables on hand: grease, silicone. Many domestic and foreign manufacturers, in order to avoid unauthorized access to the internal parts of the electric pump, make the heads of the fastening screws of the housing of a special shape (three-pointed star). This does not stop anyone, but before disassembling the drainer, you will have to spend some time grinding out the screwdriver of the desired profile.
Rice. 2 Typical diagram of electric float drainage pumps
The main reason for this malfunction is the lack of supply voltage to the electric pump, therefore, first of all, it is necessary to check the power cord or switch that monitors the water level in the pumps, performing work according to the following scheme:
Rice. 3 Floats to the pumps and a cross-section of the drain
The most problematic areas of the power cable are the point of entry into the pump and the point of connection with the plug, they will have to be checked first. It is better to do this with a connected electric pump by bending or pressing on the wires; in order to avoid electric shock, diagnostics should be carried out with gloves.
Rice. 4 Drainer, disassembled
If the break occurs closer to the middle, the cable should be completely replaced - operating a connected or soldered wire in water is dangerous for the electric pump and the owner himself.
Rice. 5 Poor-quality pumping equipment - the first drain was dismantled after 3 months of work
Some Russian and Chinese manufacturers produce low-quality drainage electric pumps. If we disassemble such a drain, we will not distinguish an aluminum winding with copper sputtering (mix) from real copper. In addition to the fact that aluminum significantly increases losses and reduces the efficiency of the device, the motor casings in many models are made of ordinary steel.With constant contact with water, they rust and let water through, which enters the winding, and the electric pump burns out - when voltage is applied, it does not work.
A model of an electric pump with thermal protection in case of overheating can save the engine from burning out if water gets into the winding, when it is triggered, the drainer turns off and does not work.
In this case, the repair of the drainage pump with a float consists in removing the engine and drying it; it is advisable to cover the body with a water-repellent compound.
Another common malfunction is a violation of the insulation between the casing and the motor of the float pump, the destruction of the stuffing box bearing on the shaft in the drain pump. In all these cases, water enters the housing and causes an inter-turn circuit, stopping the electric motor.
Rice. 6 Destroyed oil seal bearing on the motor shaft and burnt winding
The lack of water supply when the pump is running can be caused by a number of the following reasons:
If dirt or coarse particles get into the pump casing, the impeller may stop - the float drainer will hum, but the water will not pump. The clogging of the inlet grate with dirt will lead to the same consequences - the water simply will not reach the impeller or its flow will be significantly weakened.
If used improperly, the impeller or the shaft on which it is mounted can be broken, sometimes the nut or screw securing the wheel to the shaft is unscrewed and it falls down. The lack of water supply can also lead to damage to the housing of the electric pump itself.
Fig. 7 Sealing the gland and motor housing
In single-phase motors, to start working, it is necessary to provide a phase shift - this function is performed by a starting capacitor or winding. If they burn out, the engine will not be able to start and the shaft will not rotate, although the pump will hum. A damaged capacitor can be replaced; when the winding burns out with the electric pump, you will have to part.
VIDEO
In most cases, repairing a drain pump with a float can be done by hand, if the winding has not burned out. To avoid the failure of the electric pump, it is imperative to purchase models with overheating protection as pump switches - this will prevent the engine from burning out in case of blockages, breakdowns, water ingress into the electric motor. A replacement for a faulty float (water level switch) can be found in a service center or specialist store.
A drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of magic wand in case of unforeseen situations. By design, it resembles equipment for the supply of drinking water, but it has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.
Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out if it is possible to repair the drain pump with our own hands, if necessary.
The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large inclusions of sand, organic debris is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.
It is better to get acquainted with the internal filling of the device immediately after purchase in order to imagine which parts may fail in case of clogging or breakdown. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble - it is enough to study the diagram that is attached to the instructions for connecting and maintaining the device.
Apparatuses for private use in summer cottages do not differ in high power or complex filling. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), consist of steel or plastic parts,although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.
The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The motor is housed inside a robust casing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.
Modern models are equipped with thermal protection that is triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that supplies liquid to the inside of the housing. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, pick up water from the outside and push it along the walls to the outlet. The first portion of water is replaced by the next - and so on until the mechanism stops.
The float switch regulates the frequency of operation. It monitors the level of liquid in a reservoir or natural reservoir, when it drops sharply, it turns off the device in automatic mode.
As you can see, the device of the drainage pump is quite simple, and if you have ever disassembled and cleaned a submersible well pump, then you can handle this category of equipment as well. The faecal aggregate, which has an additional unit for crushing too large particles, is slightly different.
The submersible is useful for cleaning deep tanks, for example, a well that has just been commissioned. The first liquid that has accumulated in it cannot be called drinking, since there are many large inclusions of sand and clay. During the day, it is necessary to pump out the contaminated liquid so that clean, usable water comes in its place.
Unlike a submersible pump, a surface pump is not used for deep tanks; it is more suitable for pumping water from a pool or basement when it is flooded. A hose for receiving dirty water is placed at the bottom of the container, the second hose is used to drain the drains.
If the pump is used in an emergency, it is appropriate to use a float device that will control the critical level of water rise. The plus is that the design of the mechanism allows you to pump liquid with large pieces of dirt - up to 5 cm (less often - 10 cm).
It is clear that the surface type aggregate differs in its structure. A working shaft and a wheel are fixed inside the metal case, and the motor can be different: for centrifugal products - single-phase with external ventilation, for self-priming products - asynchronous two-pole.
Despite the contamination of the pumping medium, do not allow the pump to operate with a liquid in which gasoline, kerosene or other oil products and chemicals are dissolved.
Both new equipment and those that have served for more than one year can break down. A newly purchased device may fail due to a manufacturing defect made during assembly: a damaged piston or an incorrectly connected valve. Often breakdowns occur due to inept installation, if:
lowered the unit to an insufficient depth;
allowed air to enter the water intake compartment;
the water inlet is above the water and is not covered with liquid.
These flaws are easy to fix with a simple check, but it is better not to allow them.
Most often, problems arise during the operation of the equipment. The manufacturer sets the control parameters within which it is necessary to act (they are declared in the technical passport of the product). If the equipment is used incorrectly, not for its intended purpose, it simply will not withstand the load.
For example, it is normal for a drainage device to pump dirty water. This means that problems can arise if you start moving clean drinking water (for which borehole and well models are designed).On the contrary, too coarse dirt clogs the filters, as a result of which the pump stops working.
Also, troubles await if the equipment is idle, in "dry" mode - overheating will surely happen, which cannot always be corrected on your own. As a result of an oversight, the matter can end up in expensive service repairs.
Lack of prevention, rare technical inspections can also cause breakdown. Many troubles can be avoided by preventing them by replacing one of the parts or by elementary cleaning.
There are a number of possibilities to repair the equipment with your own hands, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure (for example, cleaning) can be performed. To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, make diagnostics, identify the problem and select an identical part.
Available actions include replacing a capacitor, impeller or float, repairing an electrical cable, fixing a shock absorber, and removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the housing.
If the cast-iron body is cracked, the valve is out of order, or the winding has stopped functioning, you should contact the service center or think about buying a new pump. Inexpensive Chinese-made drainage devices are inexpensive, so ordering serious professional repairs is impractical.
The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk, since due to regular twists and kinks (which often happens during transportation and reinstallation of equipment), the wires under the layer of plastic or rubberized protection break, as a result of which the pump power is cut off.
It is necessary to find the break point and make the connection. This operation is easy to carry out if a break occurs near the plug - you just need to strip and connect the wires, finally carefully insulating the place of work.
A broken cable in the area where the pump is connected will take longer to repair. First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble it to get to the internal connection block. Get ready for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple ones, which will make it difficult to select a screwdriver.
The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking or force. By unscrewing the bolts holding the tension member, you will be able to see the cable and identify the area of the break. We remove the worn-out piece, mount the cable in its original place, fasten the tensioning element, fix the bolts.
The engine is working properly, but the fluid has either stopped flowing altogether, or comes in in small, uneven jerks. There may be several reasons for the strange phenomenon:
Part of the supply line is clogged. This is a branch pipe or supply pipe. There is a kind of blockage from bundles of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the pipe length is longer than the manufacturer's recommended length, and therefore there is not enough pressure to deliver the required power.The impeller is worn out. Blades are bent or damaged. It is necessary to disassemble the device, replace parts, to begin with visually (as far as possible) determining the cause of the malfunction.The fluid is saturated with dirt and debris. Therefore, the water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction hole a certain distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.Engine power has noticeably decreased. That can be determined even by the sound. Possible malfunctions in the supply of electricity, failure of bearings, depressurization of the oil compartment. It is necessary to disassemble the case to clarify the cause of the breakdown and replace worn parts.The most common problem is filter clogging.You can try running some clean water through the pump to clean the sieve and suction port. If this procedure does not help, you should disassemble the case and clean all chambers, removing stones, algae and chips.
When disassembling the unit, be sure to follow the manufacturer's diagrams or instructions. They will help to consistently remove parts, quickly find bolt attachment points. In some cases, wear on fasteners or loose nuts will cause parts to move, which will also affect the performance of the machine.
You connect the power supply - and the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Prepare to inspect all equipment. The most common causes of engine failure are:
Disruption to the electricity supply due to broken wires. We check the cable by touch and find the break point. If the emergency area is in the area of connection to the pump, proceed as described above.The stator winding is out of order. Happens due to dry running. If you cannot replace it yourself, contact a specialist.Seized bearing ... We check the part for suitability, according to the results of diagnostics, we clean or replace it.The suction device is clogged with debris. We clean the blades and grate, check the integrity of the operating elements and the mesh.The float switch has broken. To check its performance, you need to close the relay. The problem may be in the wire connecting the float to the pump.If the capacitor is out of order, replacement is required. In some models, special access is provided to it, which is a separate hole in the case.
When the pump is switched on to the network, it starts to work, however, after a while, it stops spontaneously. Most likely, a protective mechanism is triggered due to engine overheating.
A heating cable may be the cause. It is worth checking the correspondence of the mains voltage and the parameters set by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.
Shutdown can also occur due to clogging of the blades with debris. In this case, we recommend that you carry out a complete cleaning procedure, that is, open the housing, clean the inner chambers and impeller, and check the filter.
If blockages occur frequently, re-read the instructions for the product to determine the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of debris - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding
When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or wires burn out. The reason should be sought in the details directly responsible for the wiring of electricity - the cable or the stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked using a tester; if a worn-out area is found, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the gap is near the end) shorten it.
Winding repair is a laborious task and requires special knowledge. Even with a neatly drawn secondary winding, a short circuit cannot be ruled out. If you have no time to fiddle with a burned-out part, take the device to a service center - perhaps, after diagnostics, they will advise you to buy a new pump.
As you can see, the cause of wear of parts can be both inevitable wear and a violation of the rules for operating the equipment. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the body so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not pick up coarse particles.
At least once a year, check the integrity of the cable and internal parts by disassembling the case as much as possible. Perform preventive cleaning, which will increase the life of the parts by several times. Do not confuse a drainage device with a faecal one - it does not have a special grinder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.
Videos from craftsmen will help you properly organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and troubleshoot yourself.
Overheating of the stator due to violation of the interval operation mode:
VIDEO
Features of Pedrollo pump repair:
VIDEO
How to Repair the Whirlwind Sump Pump:
VIDEO
Dismantling the Praktika DNG-400 pump:
VIDEO
Do-it-yourself repair of the drain pump is quite possible and desirable if it is enough to clean it or change a spare part to fix it. Difficult accidents - rupture of a housing or a rotating shaft - cannot be repaired by yourself. Elimination of serious problems must be entrusted to specialists, and if replacement is impractical, then buy a new pump.
A good business manager of a summer cottage or the owner of a private house at least one faced the problem of pumping water. Such a nuisance could occur as a result of the flooding of the basement after heavy rains or melting snow, the need to pump out water from a pool in a country house or a private house, a well or a sewage sump.
For these purposes, you will need a drain pump. Responsible owners of such equipment try to monitor the technical condition and repair the drain pump on time in order to avoid damage to the pump unit at the wrong time and so that it can turn on as it should.
Drainage means a pump that is designed to pump out (drain) any liquid or to ensure that the sewage system works in normal mode. A drainage pump is often confused with a faecal one. This happens out of ignorance. Indeed, with the same principle of operation and purpose, they are similar, but the liquids they pump are different.
Drainage pump Gardena classic
The use of a fecal pump is possible for pumping out liquids with impurities up to 8 mm in diameter. To prevent excess impurities from entering the inside of the working chamber, a grinder is installed. The ability to crush and remove 98% of debris allows for extremely rare unit repairs.
The drainage pump does not have a grinder in its layout. For protective purposes, it is equipped with a mesh filter, which collects larger particles of impurities up to 10 mm in size. The operation of the drainage pump is carried out by supplying liquid with the help of an impeller, as well as other elements of the system. After that, the liquid that was pumped by the pump from the container or water source enters the hose. The vacant space inside the body is occupied by new fluid, which comes from the inlet hole.
Let's consider the main problems associated with the repair of the drainage pump and which are most common:
the pump hums, but at the same time it does not pump water;
when the unit is turned on, it knocks out the circuit breaker or jams fly out;
severe vibration or overheating;
low fluid pressure at the outlet;
breakdown of a pressure switch or hydraulic accumulator;
defrosting the unit.
Often there is a problem when the drain pump does not pump, but it continues to hum. In this case, little or no fluid pressure may be created.
Drainage pump device
The most common reasons why the pump hums but does not pump water are:
low level of the pumped-over liquid;
turn-to-turn closure of the electric motor;
mechanical breakdown;
problems with the air valve.
The location of the drain pump in the aquatic environment is mandatory as they are considered submersible pumping equipment. To prevent the use of the drainage unit without liquid (dry), additional protection in the form of a float switch is installed on it. The float switch is able to automatically turn off the unit if an insufficient level of the pumped liquid appears.
This shutdown is possible thanks to the ball, which is located inside the float. When the water level changes, it changes its location in the float and closes or opens contacts in the electrical circuit. Sometimes it happens that the engine is humming or running, but fluid is not being pumped. This is due to the cavitation mode. Cavitation occurs when the equipment has excessive power, and therefore water does not always have time to seep through the impeller blades. To solve this situation, the pump should be lowered deeper.
The lack of movement of the electric motor can be associated with an inter-turn circuit. This electrical breakdown can be detected if the engine is turned on and it starts to hum, while the power cable will warm up. Turn-to-turn closure mainly occurs in connection with the operation of equipment in a dry environment. After all, the engine is cooled by the pumped water. Without water, the engine idles and overheats, which causes a violation of the insulation of its winding.
A mechanical failure occurs when the engine is running. If it turns on, but does not spin and hums. This can happen if the impeller blades break. Broken parts can jam the rotating shaft. Or, if the shaft is seized, the bearing system may not function properly.
All this, with such a long-term work, will still lead to an inter-turn circuit, and then the drain pump will have to be repaired. In order to verify this breakdown, you will need to turn off the power and remove the equipment from the aquatic environment. After that, it is necessary to rotate the impeller on the shaft. If you cannot turn the impeller, then you will have to disassemble the device.
Some drainage pumps have special valves that release air. The ball in the valve often sticks. This happens when the device is operating in a difficult environment and water with impurities gets into the inside of the unit. The sticking of the ball interferes with the constant evacuation of the accumulated air and the engine starts to idle. To restore performance, it is sometimes enough to let the pump run in clean water. The valve opening is slightly cleaned of adhering dirt and deposits.
When the electric motor is turned on, the circuit breaker may turn off or the fuses on the plugs may blow and the cable supplying the pump may melt. This happens when the shaft is jammed in the bearings or when the electric motor burns out. If the electric motor burns out, a characteristic burning smell will be heard.
Float switch repair
This could happen when the wrong connection of the device was made, the wrong power supply network was chosen - 380 V instead of 220 V. It is better not to disassemble the pump in this case, since it will still have to be taken to the drain pump for repair in a service workshop for further rewinding armature windings. To convince yourself of a fault in the windings, you can measure their insulation resistance.
The minimum insulation resistance for starting up the unit must be 0.2 MΩ.
As mentioned above, some models of drainers are equipped with thermal relays that turn off the device when it overheats. In its absence, you have to carefully monitor that the pump is not for a long time outside the pumped liquid in working order. With prolonged operation in a dry case, the device will overheat, which will entail the displacement of the magnet fixed with epoxy glue, which, in turn, the transfer piston can jam.
After detachment of the magnet, internal vibration may begin and a chain reaction about the pump will start, which ultimately disables all mechanics and electronics. As a result, the entire apparatus becomes a heap of scrap metal.Experts believe that in most cases, after such breakdowns, repairs for the drainage pump will not be economically viable.
If this defect is detected in time, you should contact the service center. There they will carry out the appropriate diagnostics of the equipment, replace the damaged parts and install the magnet itself in place. Self-repair can lead to a series of incorrect actions, which will affect the performance.
First, the device is completely disassembled and the magnet is taken out neatly. After that, apply longitudinal notches to the housing and magnet for better adhesion. Then glass sealant or new epoxy glue is applied, worn parts are replaced and the pump is reassembled in the reverse order.
Drainers, both surface and submersible, have a breakdown in the form of weak outlet pressure. There are several reasons for such a breakdown:
The filter is most often clogged. The pressure of the pumped liquid through the hose (hose) can drop sharply or stop altogether. The main symptoms of this are overheating of the motor or overloaded operation of the device and its loud noise. At surface stations, when worn, the sleeve is damaged or the clamp is loosened, which tightens the attachment to the sleeve.
This contributes to the suction of unnecessary air into the pumping system and the ability to lift water from the source is lost. The solution to this problem is simple. - you will need to inspect all connections on pipes and clamping clamps.
It happens that everything seems to be in order. In this case, the vibrator may have a small stroke. To eliminate this malfunction, the device is disassembled and an additional vibrating rod washer is adjusted. Lining one washer doesn't always help. Several more of the same may be required, which is determined by the selection method. Seals and diaphragms must be kept intact and undamaged.
VIDEO The malfunctions listed above for the drain pump cannot always be eliminated by yourself. You can independently fix a weakened shock absorber, release or replace the float, eliminate mechanical damage that caused the impeller to jam, replace the supply cable.
The simplest of all this would be securing the shock absorber. To do this, you need to disassemble the device body and tighten the loose nuts on the mounting bolts. It is imperative to lock the top nut so that there is no further loosening. It will take some time to replace the power cord. Replacement of the condenser is possible in some models of drains.
The rest of the faults are practically impossible to eliminate without the involvement of service workshops. For example, if the stock is torn, it is easier and sometimes cheaper to purchase new equipment than to disassemble and try to repair it. Replacing a valve is a difficult and unprofitable undertaking to solve the problem yourself. Replacement of a burnt-out winding must be carried out in specialized workshops.
Dismantling of drainage pump Belamos DWP CS
If it becomes necessary to repair pumping equipment, it is necessary to find out the probable cause of its breakdown, which are often:
Failure to comply with the terms of periodic inspection and repair of equipment.
The equipment was not operated correctly. During operation of the device, its operating parameters were exceeded.
The pumped liquid contains solid impurities larger than required.
Long-term use of the pump in dry mode.
The equipment was installed incorrectly or poorly.
The hydroaccumulator, relay is out of order, there is no filter.
When the first hints of a breakdown appear, you should immediately check the following components of the device:
Drainage of a reservoir with a drainage pump
The piston must be free of mechanical damage and defects, its condition must be elastic. The valve covering the inlet openings must have a body clearance of 0.7 to 0.8 mm. Air must flow freely when blown in on the intake side. It often happens that poor operation of the pump is not associated with its breakdown. There may be power drops in the network.
Video (click to play).
Therefore, before starting the disassembly of the device, make sure that the mains voltage is correct, which should be 220-240 V. It should be noted that for long-term and reliable operation of the pumping equipment, it is necessary to carry out technical inspection and maintenance of the device in a timely manner and follow the rules of technical operation.
