Drive2 DIY repair

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You repair associated with high costs and endless mess? In this section of our website, you will find practical tips to help you master the skills of an electrician, plumber and construction worker. Now you do not need to spend money on what you can do with your own hands. Often, repairs are delayed due to lack of funds, but if you learn on your own change sewerage or wiring, then your apartment will become attractive in a short time.

In order for the interior to be beautiful for a long time, you need to learn how to maintain the condition of floor and wall coverings. We have collected useful articles for you on how to care for your tiles, clean your sink, and repair household appliances.Decorate your apartment in the best possible way with minimal investment.

AUTO REPAIR BY YOUR OWN HANDS

If you have never done auto repair with your own hands, but are planning to try, you should take into account a few not obvious, but proven by life.
1... Keys are always lost. For some reason, 13-horns are most susceptible to this - I do not know what this is connected with, perhaps with the "bad" number 13. Therefore, all keys need to have two pieces, and 13-horns - at least three. In addition, one size lock nut and locknut will put single wrench car owners in an awkward position.
2... If you are sitting in a hole and you urgently need a key, then it will certainly be outside, somewhere on the hood.

3... In any car, there is certainly at least one nut (bolt), to which you cannot crawl with an open-end wrench and don’t put on the socket head. How they managed to twist it at the factory is a great mystery. There are more such nuts in a domestic car than any other. For example, in the "classic" it is the lower starter bolt, or several bolts of the oil sump - those that are directly above the crossbeam, or ... But you never know they are there!

4... Nut from item 3 you can still unscrew it. Don't ask me how - but a stubborn person who has nowhere to retreat will certainly find a way. (And the lower starter bolt, once you unscrew it, do not screw it back - well, fuck it, the starter holds perfectly on the two remaining ones).

5... When disassembling almost any unit of cars, there will certainly be at least one nut (bolt) that will refuse to unscrew, no matter what you do with it. The edges of the nut will break off, the hairpin will turn, the stuck bolt will break off ... This does not mean at all that you are some kind of especially crooked-handed - this is how the world works.

6... Based on paragraph 5, it is absolutely necessary to have a stock of various fasteners in order to replace the damaged one. Experienced auto mechanics accumulate such a stock by itself, and a beginner will have to run to the nearest auto store for one unfortunate nut.

7... The nearest auto shop will be closed.

8... After you ran to the nearest store for one nut, be sure to ruin another one. So do not rush to the store - first take everything apart and count the losses.

9... Since you had to drag the line to the store, then take the nuts with a margin - they cost a penny, and they will come in handy in the next repair.

10... When assembling the repaired unit with your own hands, do not rush to tighten the most inaccessible nuts, first make sure that the unit is operational after the bulkhead. This will make it easier to disassemble everything back when you are sure to screw something. For example, when replacing a clutch on a Niva, do not tighten the upper bolt of the box, which has to be approached with a structure of two extension cords with cardan joints - then you will not be so offended to see a forgotten release bearing at the edge of the pit.

11... If the knot "does not come off", do not rush to take up the pry bar and the sledgehammer - most likely, you did not notice some small but harmful bolt.

12... Still, you can't do without a mount and a sledgehammer, especially in the case of domestic cars.

13... The hardest part of the job will not be the one you expected.

14... A cheap tool will do such troubles that you will forever commit yourself to saving money on it. So don't even try it. For example, a Chinese key with a weakened jaw will surely cut off the edges on the nut exactly in the place where you cannot stick a grinder or nut cutter.

15... Even the most seasoned and intelligent people swear in the garage. Without these spells, you simply will not unscrew anything and a full-fledged repair will not happen, it's checked.

16... Therefore, do not take women and children to the garage, even if you need an assistant for a trifling operation like pumping the brakes. There is no need to expand their vocabulary so much. And peeing behind a slightly open collar is somehow easier in a same-sex company.

17... When preparing to carry out repairs, try to foresee all operations, and everything that you can break in the process.For example, when replacing the brake slave cylinder with a foolishness, you will certainly need a pipe tightening wrench, and there is a very high likelihood of a tube breaking. Both cost a penny, but if you have not thought about it in advance, then by all means make sure that ... see p. 7.

18... The optimal number of repairmen is two. Many operations cannot be performed alone, and three people will only interfere with each other. The main thing in this case is to start drinking AFTER the final repair, and not before. An exception is winter repairs in an unheated garage.

19... Do not assemble the tool until you are sure that the repaired unit is fully functional. Bad sign…

20... If you have a "heavy" tool for correcting your own mistakes - a grinder, welding, drill, extractors, self-clamping pliers, chisel and nut cutter - then there is a chance that they will not be needed. If they are not there, they will certainly be needed and the repair will not end without them.

21... The necessary puller will certainly be lost, although you "know for sure that it was lying here ...". If you spit and buy a new one, then the loss will instantly be found. Let's say I already have three sets of cable ties for the springs ...

22... Giving your instrument to “use” is the surest way to lose it. Make up persuasive excuses ahead of time so you don't fight with your garage neighbors. For example, a friend of mine converted an entire power tool for exotic three-pin sockets, and it became very difficult to use it somewhere other than his garage ...

23... When changing the oil, you will definitely be doused with hot working off, and you will let the cork into the drain container. Don't be discouraged - this is an integral part of the technological process.

24... Expecting to "quickly fix a simple breakdown", you will certainly find a couple of serious malfunctions that you did not even know about. Let's say an innocent brake pad change might reveal:
a) Current slave cylinder.
b) Critical drum or disc wear.
v) Wheel bearing play.
G) Backlash in the steering rod.
e) Axle oil seal leaking.
e) Damage to the drive boot.
g) Stretched parking brake cable.
h)... but you never know what else ...
So:

25... Any car repair always takes longer, harder and more expensive than you bargained for. However, this is not only about auto repair ...

If you do not plan to repair the car with your own hands quite regularly, but are going to "shake up the car once", then it is better to throw this idea out of your head. The notion that self-repair can be "economical" is greatly exaggerated if it is not a regular hobby. Even very unassuming at first glance domestic cars, contrary to anecdotes, cannot be repaired with a sledgehammer, pliers and a well-known mother. And many novice auto mechanics do not even imagine how many absolutely obligatory repair tools they need to purchase! And how much will all this cost ... And most importantly, will your car suffer ?!

By saying "injector", most motorists mean the fuel supply system that comes with a gasoline engine. They began to actively use it back in the eighties of the last century. It has several advantages over carburetor systems. The main difference is that in the injection system, fuel is forcibly injected into the cylinder or intake manifold. Depends on the serviceability of the injection system Engine efficiency and fuel consumption.

The main advantages of the injector in comparison with the carburetor system:

1. Reduced fuel consumption.
2. Facilitation of starting the motor.
3. Growth of dynamic characteristics and engine power.
4. Compliance of the car with modern environmental standards.

But when the injector wears out, all its advantages miraculously disappear. What can we say about breakdowns, the elimination of which can be very, very expensive for the owner.

Why grows over time fuel consumption and the power of the power plant drops?
The fuel system is responsible for gasoline purification, injection and distribution. With its help, the amount of fuel supplied to the cylinders is regulated.

As a result of operation, the main elements of the system, from the fuel rail and inlet valves to pipelines and the pressure regulator, are covered with pollution, which is so rich in domestic fuel. These deposits negatively affect the operation of the injector and the tightness of the gate valve of the pressure regulator.

As a rule, the "exorbitant appetite" of a car and a deterioration in traction properties are accompanied by other negative phenomena:

Troit engine.

The revolutions are floating.

The so-called dips appear when you press the gas pedal.

What to do in this case, because you need not only reduced fuel consumption, but also the restoration of its normal functioning.

Flushing the injector with RVS additives
RVS-Master Ic is a product based on cleaning and lubricating components. Flushing the injector with its help - a profitable solution: this is a CIP repair, the cost of which is only 1.2 thousand rubles, and the effectiveness of the impact is beyond praise.

The composition has a positive effect on each element of the fuel path:

1. Eliminates deposits and deposits on the surfaces of the injection pump.
2. Provides gasoline purification.
3. Cleans injector nozzles, forming a durable protective layer.
4. Improves the quality of fuel combustion.

The situation is familiar to everyone: we insert a disc into a DVD player, and the disc is "unreadable".

There are two possible reasons:

2. Malfunction in the DVD drive.

For example, DVD HYUNDAI consider one of the options for repairing a DVD drive with your own hands... At first, the DVD “stopped reading discs”, and the malfunction sometimes manifests itself and disappears, as a result, it stopped working altogether.

First, we always check the output voltages from the power supply. Is the voltage normal? Then we look at the disk drive, for this we unscrew it and disconnect all the connectors.

We check visually connectors, cable, soldering, etc.

If the visual overview didn't give anything, let's move on.

Next, you need to ring the loop that goes from the board to the head.

During operation, the drive head constantly moves from place to place. As a result, it turned out that the four outer conductors of the loop are in a cliff, the rest are already ready to come off too. I tampered with the insulation with a needle. Here you can see the broken tracks.

If the break is at the very beginning or end of the train and its length allows it, then you can carefully cut the end of the train with scissors and insert the train into the connector.

But sometimes it is useless to repair the loop, it is constantly in operation, moves and bends, if soldered, then after a while it will break off again. We need to change. But the problem is to buy exactly such a train is very difficult. But there was a way out! An old, unusable drive from a computer turned out to be at hand. True, the train from it is wider and longer, but the distance between the conducting lines and their thickness are the same.

But it's even good that it is longer, because it will bend less, and there is enough room for it. Contacts fit perfectly, one to one!

We accurately measure the required width of the train, it is better to make it a little wider, and then carefully trim it to the desired width. Everything must be done carefully, especially the edges of the train. Now we put it in place.

We check the operation of the drive. So that the train does not cling to anything.

Putting the DVD player together in reverse order. We put the drive, board, cable and connectors in their places, close the case, and enjoy watching your favorite films

Good luck with the repair! Visit our Forum.

According to the scheme proposed below, you can assemble a simple temperature-to-frequency converter.

It operates over a temperature range of 0 to 100 ° F (-20 ° C to + 40 ° C) and converts to a frequency ranging from 0 to 1 kHz.

With years of experience working with various American Power Conversion UPS models in harsh rural grid environments, we share tips you won't find in a technical manual or any other book. You will learn how to extend the life of a UPS or even resurrect a unit without being an electronics engineer and not having any measuring equipment at hand, except for a Chinese multimeter. More details ...

The utility model relates to the materials science of textile and light industry products, namely, to the methods of studying the structure and properties of knitted fabrics during their laboratory and production tests.

The disadvantage of the prototypes of this device can be attributed to the fact that they are focused on solving only a narrow measuring problem, namely, determining the air permeability of a knitted fabric, taking into account its actual density.

How I capitalized my EJ25D on the Legacy Grand Wagon 95g

almost finished kapitalku, there was only a little left, put the belt, the intake manifold and stick the darling in place, it was growing.

And it all started with. shopping 🙂 I never thought that someday I would make a major overhaul on my own. but little by little I came to this, tk. I realized that half measures cannot be avoided here.

Well, there was a lyrical otsupleniya.

I removed the engine myself, in principle there is nothing complicated. used a chain hoist suspended from the ceiling. The most crap is to wash it. Therefore, before taking up the capital, first thoroughly wash it by car, then when they have already removed it, take their time to disassemble it, and once again wash it in those places where they did not get it for the first time. I first threw off the heads and the intake manifold, then I took them to the sink. the whole dvigun was lost with mud. beforehand it was necessary to plug up and coat with oil all the holes through which water and dirt could get inside.

in general, from the very beginning, there was an idea to make a photo report on this matter, but then due to lack of time and just laziness, this idea receded into the background.

okay, that's all for today. does it make sense to write further, will my attempts be useful and interesting to anyone?

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Well, I haven’t shoved the engine back yet, so I’ll still click the main points today. Well, about the plugs that I’ll tell you almost to tears and draw what I did.

The main task was to maximize the budget, since fucking crizis in the yard, well, leaving the children and his wife hungry would be blasphemy 🙂

Of course, the capital is not entirely honest, because it did not change the piston, and accordingly did not bore the engine, did not change the crankshaft liners. According to my preliminary research, in general, it was confirmed in the future, there was no need for this.

EJ25 DOHC engine, 4 camshafts.

What happened before the start of work?
The oil ate notably, the engine was constantly wet from below, sinned on the root oil seal, the frontal ones had already been seen before, they were ok, but flowed from under the valve cover, somewhere in the back (root), and possibly from the junction of the pallet with the block, there were not enough bolts and somehow the lid was generally questionable), there were no problems with knocks and other incomprehensibility there, constant overheating and squeezing out of the coolant, its smell and an oily film in the expansion tank), the ignition of the devil worked as it did, the power appeared or disappeared, apparently due to overheating local and offset ignition, because then revealed a large backlash of the timing gear on the crankshaft.

Respect guys with SD-Parts, prices for some artifacts were much nicer than on existential. 🙂

Now there will be an excuse to calculate the costs of spare parts and other small things, before that there was a lack of time, just realizing that something needed to be found and money was bought.

Welcome to the site "DIY car repair“. Apparently, you are familiar with the problem of low-quality repairs in car services, when any repair must be controlled by yourself - otherwise the result often leaves much to be desired. As a rule, the masters are trying to "dissolve" you for additional expenses and in every possible way to pull money out of you to replace what is actually not required. As soon as the master sees you as a not very experienced person in terms of repair, he will immediately begin to unwind you. To avoid this in most cases, knowledge and ideas about the correct repair and its need help.

In reality, if the arms grow from where you need most of the belt work, you can do it yourself. With this approach, you can be 100% confident in quality, because you do everything for yourself, with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself car repair is exactly what this resource is devoted to.

"Do-it-yourself car repair" - Articles and advice on tuning and repairing cars for people of all skill levels - from amateurs in the garage to professional repairmen. Following the guides, you can try to replace some parts, which do not require any special skills, on your own, on weekends at the dacha, relaxing along the way.

We hope that our site will help you to carry out high-quality maintenance of your car with your own hands and save money on a belt.

At the moment, the site contains only a few articles on the topic of DIY car repair, only the most popular and frequently performed actions. However, in the future, the resource will be replenished with new materials.

A rare driver will refuse the opportunity to do car repairs with his own hands. For many, the weekend under an iron friend in the garage and surrounded by comrades turns into a tradition. Oiled rags, black hands, drops of oil and the smell of gasoline all this undoubtedly excites the blood of an avid motorist.

He is able to sacrifice his personal weekend getaway, endure his wife's reproaches and spend his last money on spare parts. The cult of self-repairing a car on its own without outside help gathers new supporters among young car enthusiasts every year.

As soon as they buy a car, how to twist, screw, tighten, lubricate and perform a large number of operations related to the repair of a vehicle.

In the distant Soviet times, when the presence of a car was the lot of the lucky few who suffered a vehicle, the first rudiments of self-repair literally appeared.

Most of the drivers simply could not imagine how they could do otherwise. The most complex repairs concerning the engine or gearbox were carried out by a group of "specialists" of garage specialization with a glass of vodka.

From a technical point of view, the precursors of modern cars were structurally very simple as single-celled microorganisms. Many issues of repairing the undercarriage of the machine were solved using a hammer and a sledgehammer.

We must not forget that the car repair service began to emerge only in the nineties and was in its infancy for a long time. Its active development took place after a stream of used cars poured into the market. For local wrench wizards, their repairs were simply too tough.

Undoubtedly, self-repair of a vehicle for a driver has a number of advantages. They make it possible to replenish the ranks of avid lovers of self-repair.

1. Saving money;
2. Selection of quality spare parts;
3. Deepening technical knowledge;
4. Car repair in stages;
5. The ability to use the machine when performing repair work;
6. Fostering a respectful attitude towards the operation of a vehicle.

Of course, along with fans of car repairs with their own hands, there are opponents who speak extremely negatively about this way of spending time. They believe that, of course, real specialists with experience and using equipment should be engaged in repairing a vehicle.

1. Poor quality of repair;
2. Wrong choice of spare parts;
3. Purchase of cheap spare parts;
4. Time spent;
5. Lack of knowledge.

The choice between self-repair or contacting specialists depends only on the driver. Everyone must necessarily measure their strengths and capabilities. Otherwise, if you are not sure, it is best to contact the professionals.

Thank you for your attention, good luck on the road.Read, comment and ask questions. Subscribe to fresh and interesting articles on the site.

The ball joints bear the weight of the front of the vehicle, including the weight of the engine. At the same time, when driving, they receive constant blows from the wheels in any direction. No matter what durable material these parts are made of, their service life is limited. It is good that in many cases, do-it-yourself restoration is possible.

Of course not, this is directly related to security.

1. When the ball joint is dismembered, the wheel breaks and its rotation is blocked. The car immediately leaves the trajectory. The consequences can be fatal. Weak balls are a real safety hazard!
2. Moving with a backlash in the ball joint leads to a violation of control. At the right moment, you may not have time to make the maneuver.
3. At the first sign of wear on these components, it is necessary to undergo a suspension diagnosis.

Thus, having determined the symptoms of a malfunction, conclusions are drawn about the maintainability of the part. After identifying critical wear, the ball balls must be replaced. However, their cost is quite high, especially if they are integral with the suspension arm. Therefore, many car enthusiasts prefer to make repairs.

It's important to know! After repair, the ball is not restored to the state of a new part. The service life will be shorter. But you don't have to worry about operational safety.

There are many recovery methods. The repair method using the sjr technology is quite popular, when molten polymer is pumped into the cavity between the cage and the ball.

We will consider repairs with disassembly of this unit.

To understand the mechanism of operation of the support, look at the diagram:

Often the problem arises from damage to the boot, and not the metal itself

Only the polymer liner is subject to wear. It is during its abrasion that backlash appears. If you continue to ride with a loose ball joint, the top of the cylinder also breaks, and then the finger can fly out of the cage.

The inserts are sold at auto dealerships as consumables. If your ball joint is collapsible, you can easily pull out the bottom and replace the polymer inside the product.

Consumables can be sold in the store at a more affordable price than buying a new part

First of all, the assembly must be removed correctly. The finger sticks so strongly to the suspension arm that it is practically one piece with it. Previously, preferably a day before, the compound is abundantly treated with a penetrating liquid. The composition is WD-40 or regular kerosene. There are two ways to remove your finger from the lug:

1. Press out with a ball joint puller. This is the most painless and reliable method, but the puller is not always at hand. There are no universal fixtures, but the fastening structures of the ball joint are different. Ball joint puller example
2. The second method is more universal, but there is a risk of damaging the thread on the support pin. On the tip of the ball, it is necessary to screw a nut made of solid steel (hardness 9.8) and knock the ball out of the lug with precise short blows of a hammer.

Important! You can't hit your finger directly. You will rivet the threaded connection, and it will be impossible to screw on the working fastening nut.

So, the ball joint is in your hands. The outer cylinder (cage) is a monolithic structure. It is impossible to remove your finger.

Ball joint options from different car models

The blank part of the support body is removable. In this case, you can repeatedly change the plastic liners, each time restoring the support's performance. The removable bottom allows for routine inspection without removing the ball joint from the suspension.

1. A hole the size of a ball of a finger is drilled in the bottom (with a small gap, of course). Drilled out - conditionally said. A milling machine is required. Do not be afraid to damage the plastic liner when boring, you will still be changing it. A thread is cut inside. This is a rather complicated procedure due to its large diameter.But in any tool shop you will be able to do such work for a nominal fee. Entrust the work to professionals, if you are not yourself
2. Then a threaded plug is made for this hole, repeating the shape of the standard bottom.

Tip: Use two ball joints for precise manufacturing of the plug. With one, cut the bottom off with a grinder and use it as a sample form.

On the manufactured bottom, you must cut the slots for the key, otherwise it will be impossible to firmly tighten the repair unit. Replace on a clean surface, otherwise the meaning of the work is lost

Now, for repairs, it will be enough to unscrew the plug, remove the finger (checking its geometry) and replace the plastic inserts.

Important! It is necessary to ensure that the thread is locked, otherwise the bottom may unscrew during operation.

The principle is the same as in the first case - to make a replaceable bottom. Only the execution is different. If the bottom of the support is too thin to make a full threaded connection, a repair cup must be made. It is turned on a lathe from a steel circle of a suitable diameter. In the bottom of the glass, the same hole is machined and a thread is cut. And finally, a removable support base is made.

Then the bottom of the cylinder is cut from the ball bearing using a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. A repair glass is welded in its place. The method is more time consuming, but it does not allow the finger to heat up during the dismantling process.

Further operation according to the same scheme: when a backlash appears, unscrew the repair plug, remove the finger, change the plastic inserts.

It is worth noting that manufacturers of spare parts produce many options for repair ball joints. Both replaceable inserts and new pins are sold for these collapsible housings. However, in our article we are considering just self-production.

The fastest way to restore the ball joint. The rear (support) part of the cylinder is simply cut off. The method does not matter - you can use a hacksaw, you can use a grinder, there will still be a temperature effect afterwards.

Having gained access to the cylinder cavity, the polymer liners can be changed.

Important! Be sure to remove any cut burrs before installing new bushings. Torn metal edges will quickly split the earbuds during use.

After installing new inserts, the bottom is carefully welded. In this case, it is necessary to compensate with the thickness of the seam the production of metal formed during the sawing. This is usually 1.5–2 mm.

Welding is one of the most painstaking options

Important! Use a welding method that minimizes temperature exposure. The inside of the polymer liner may heat up to its melting point. Therefore, until it cools completely, do not apply any load to the pin in order to avoid deformation of the liner.

This technology requires professional equipment, so it is impossible to expand a ball in a garage. The crimp ring is cut to the diameter of the ball of the finger.

Turning works will find their place here too

The seat and the ball are cleaned of dirt, polished. New liners and a crimping ring are selected or machined from caprolon.

It happens that caprolon is not available, but it is not recommended to replace it with steel. It is better to spend one time on this material than to replace it more often than it could be

After assembly, the ferrule is pressed in and rolled on the press. When crimping, special clip-on inserts are used along the diameter of the ring.

You can also search for inserts at auto dealerships.

• A threaded plug looks preferable as there is no thermal effect on the support. However, this method requires a thick bottom, which is not always present on compact parts.
• Glass with carvings - the golden mean. Welding takes place without affecting the plastic, however, the strength characteristics of the metal deteriorate.
• Welding is the simplest, but ineffective way.After high temperature treatment, new polymer inserts lose their properties and their service life decreases.
• Flaring is an ideal method in terms of quality. You actually get a new ball joint, manufactured using factory technologies. However, this technique does not work at home.

And there are actually two recovery technologies - either pour something inside, removing the cover, or disassemble the ball completely, pressing out the bottom. At the same time, the oil can was screwed in. Or they simply squeezed the outer part on the press. But more often than not, the ball dies from a torn cover, then dirt, sand, water are stuffed inside, grinding off the bushings, and the iron, and the ball. So not every ball can be restored. And it is not important how to restore, fill or disassemble, the main thing is that, in principle, it is possible.

I drove the restored ball and steering wheels for two years, I won't say anything bad, really good too ... The owner of the service station (according to him) immediately restores even new parts for himself, he says - the restored ones last longer ... I am used to drawing conclusions based on an understanding of the process, and how it is possible to restore a seemingly non-separable part, I do not understand ... STO specialists say: the finger is removed, the wear of the finger is turned, then it is polished and filled with plastic.

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It makes no sense to fill in frankly rusty ones, since the geometry of the finger will already be too disturbed, which will lead to an irregular shape of the filled polymer, well, everything that follows from this.

Give examples of accidents that occurred due to the fault of the restored ball, and not due to the observance of the distance or speed limit, for example. I am engaged in repairs myself, I saw many restored parts, there are regular customers who have left for more than 50 thousand restored ones and it is excellent, the main thing is to restore it on time! And if you are afraid for your life, then buy new cars, not rubbish, which is already being scrapped in Europe, and follow ALL traffic rules. PS: The fact that you bought a new part does not mean that it is good, especially in our markets. New new discord.

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To decide how to repair your suspension, simply calculate the cost of rebuilding. In some cases, it makes sense to buy a new unit, sometimes repairs will be more cost-effective. In any case, the variety of possibilities gives you a chance to save money.