In detail: 167 fmm engine DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Sender: Evgeny Matveev in Articles 06/03/2012 52 Comments 56,590 Views
Oh, these holidays: there is no time to overturn a glass of wine while drinking. In connection with this case, the release of the next video is postponed to Tuesday, but in order not to be so sad to spend the evening, I propose an article on the coming sleep ...
Writing about tuning is the same as trying to embrace the immense and cram in the unstoppable, because this topic can be described for years and it will not be possible to completely exhaust the list of nuances. Therefore, in this material I will only touch on the issue of tuning 4T Chinese motors.
In a deliberate response to potential statements that “ketai is not a jack,” I can only say that I myself was quite sure of this quite recently.
In general and in general, tune can be divided into two stages:
- Increasing power by removing all kinds of chokes and increasing the volume
- Tuning the transmission for new power characteristics of the motor
And in the first and in the second stages, the components and assemblies, when it comes to 2T and 4T motors, differ fundamentally. I mean, at least you need to know what kind of motor you have.
In a nutshell, I will list what you will have to reach out to if you want to "figure out" for yourself tuning, close to professional:
By engine
By transmission
- Front rear suspension
- Chubby
- Brake discs
- Brake hoses
- Brake calipers
- Brake pads
Questions like: "Is it possible to tune only the engine, but not to tune the transmission?" here it is inappropriate. Here, you won't be able to eat a fish and get the hell out of it. You don't even have to try. This kind of event is carried out only in a comprehensive manner and in order to achieve results you need to do everything at the same time, and not hope that “right now I will stick myself with a hundred cubes, a carburetor from a liter mota and forward flow, as on a grader, and it WILL FALL for me! "
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Video (click to play). |
Lyrical digression
In our market, as a rule, there are only Chinese analogues of the GY6 Honda engine in various variations. Sometimes there is something else, usually frankly dull and fiercely maddeningly. I will not even tell about this sadness. Let's return to our Chinese "air" four-strokes.
In short, for those who, like me once, are soaring with the question of why a modern motor looks so poor, I will say: its first analogue was developed by AZ ... 1960. That is, you understand. since then he was subjected only to, as history claims, “some improvements”, but “some improvements”, as a rule, do not concern the appearance. a small four-stroke single-pot engine, air-oil (or air) cooling, in stock with two upper valves (that is, those that are in the head. Not to be confused with lower valves). Such motors develop an average of 8-12 "horses" at 125-150- The funniest thing is that despite their outwardly collective farm appearance, these motors are able to produce up to 14 “horses” and there is nothing more to do, and they spin, being “with full stuffing”, easily up to 12 thousand rpm
If, after all the above, you have a mess in your head regarding the question of the cubature of the motors described, then I will immediately reassure you: 50,125,150 cubes are all analogs of the engine, the one that is higher in the photo (GY6) and it does not matter that they differ slightly in appearance. In addition, China has introduced a rigid system for standardization of motors, which allows us to clearly distinguish all engines into three main types:
-
139QMB (bore / stroke: 39 x 41.5 mm.)
49cc
152QMI (d / x: 52.4 x 57.8 mm)
125cc
157QMJ (57.2 x 57.8 mm)
One thing is good that within the same type, even if the motors of completely different manufacturers, most of the parts are interchangeable with minimal tolerances.
Well, okay, China, even if he moves to Africa, will still remain China. In short, the cannabis Honda has not used this fossil in its new models for a long time, because it would be a specific shame. They went further, equipping their technical masterpieces with liquid cooling, four- (in rare cases, even five-) valve engines with injection, catalysts and a wagon of electronics.Well, the Chinese (and the Koreans too) picked up the good old, obsolete GY6 stories from the junkyard, dusted them off, washed them, and threw on their own lids crankcases with a brand name such as "Eben", "Gandong", "Huateng", with a very euphonious for the Russian (Ukrainian) ear, and to this day they put them on scooters, quadras, minibuggies, children's snowmobiles, not really worrying about the fact that in recent cases, this case desperately needs a push from behind. Okay. Let's go ...
Are these motors tuned? Yes. Who? Koso, C.M. Racing, YMS Racing, RPM, NHRC. And I'll tell you that this is not the whole list of manufacturers, and despite this, five of these companies produce such a car of tun that even Polini and Malossi combined, which the owners could previously boast of, will go round and round. Japanese and Italian stools. Demand dictates supply: on the Russian and Ukrainian markets and roads nowadays there are almost twice as many Chinese (Korean) equipment as Japanese ones. Despite the fact that all the tunes come from almost the same place as the motors, they are of high quality in fact, it is not even very heal, because it is produced in the overwhelming majority in Taiwan. Tuning odors from there are of the highest quality dictated by Japanese and European technologies, and not only for this reason. Taiwan has the highest level of "stoolization": an average of 25,000,000 there are 21 residents of scooters, mopeds and scooters, of course, in such a nutritious "borscht" its own special scooter culture could not have arisen, but against its background there is already a culture of scooter tuning ...
In the overwhelming majority of gadgets are made specifically for "poltinishny" motors and in the kit most often have whales (from the English. Kit - a set) to increase the cubic capacity, such as:
- 44 mm (under 63 cubes)
- 47 mm (72 cubes)
- 50mm (81.5cc)
There seems to be an even more extreme whale with a diameter of 51.5 mm under 86.2 cubic meters, but I personally have not seen such stuffing.
All whales, of course, do not compete in quality with small glades, which make it possible to razgandurashivat 2T motor easily up to 20 horses and above, but still something can be built.
In the tune of any motor, the rule applies: the farther from the drain, the more iron in the whale, if not, then you have to buy this very iron, so if you put 44mm, then everything else can be left unchanged, and if you hope to scandalize yourself with almost 90cc, then there is no need to go to the grandmother to understand that next you will have to change the “head”, because the stock one will not cope with the purge, well, the shaft and the bearings will follow, since the stock is unlikely to withstand the load, which has almost doubled, and that's not all, the carburetor and exhaust system will also be on this list and you won't be able to throw them out of there.
More specifically, before installing the 61mm CPG on the 152QMI or 157QMJ motor
61m fits poorly on the palm of your hand
Ribs with a modified sweep angle
you will have to stock up on a specific shaft with a reinforced connecting rod,
Bearings no less frail than the shaft, which will look at the increased loads like shit, after that you will need a corresponding head with two enlarged valves, or better, so that there are four ...
This pleasure costs no less than $ 500. To feed this pleasure with stock carb to a dead number. Then you need something more productive ...
Thirty: +5 horses to power, +30 to self-esteem, + 6 liters to consumption
Setting up all this is still a task: not only can you forget about efficiency, but in addition to all this you have to play with the jets for a day, choosing the optimal mixture and there are no templates here the same as in the question with the variator. select a good, high-quality FTS
with a minimum coefficient of intrinsic resonance.
If in a 2T engine the muffler plays almost the most important role, then in 4T it is the last on the list, because valves are responsible for the gas distribution here and there is no need to dance with the exhaust setting, so it all comes down to one thing - to make the exhaust gases outward as easy as possible , so the muffler here often looks more like a louder than what they used to call it ...
As a rule, such cans are almost completely empty inside, have only a small sound-suppressing layer, an enlarged exhaust pipe and nothing else, but they stand like one stage of a launch vehicle.
Let's go further: with all this minced meat it will not fall down anyway. Without a normal switchboard,
Now, in order to fully realize such nonsense, you have to buy some iron in the variator for a lot of money. The stock front pulley will have to be replaced with an enlarged one with a nickel-coated
because the drain will constantly tear the slider and eat the surface with a Kevlar belt,
which you also buy (where can you go), because the stock belt will instantly turn into rags after a couple of good bumps in a straight line. You will have to play with the rollers and ensure that the motor works only in the torque zone.
To get off the ground like a lunatic, you have to buy a clutch, but in a tighter way
The hardened NARAKU R-Vent clutch that can withstand anything in your life
You also have to play with it: choose the springs of optimal stiffness.
The standard torch will not cope here, he quickly bends the guides and starts to eat the stocks, or some other nuisance that can happen ...
The stock spring of the torch is also in the firebox, it will not provide normal pressure of the belt to the surface of the pulleys.
In general, ideally, for the convenience of setting up a new variator, a tachometer will come in handy,
no, well, of course, in a completely ideal ideal, a dyno will be just right,
but in our conditions it will be enough and
If the number with the setting is successful, it's time to run after a long pair in the gearbox, because you don't even have to try to fly at your own at suborbital speeds ... On a stock gearbox with full mincemeat, you can squeeze a maximum of 100-105 km / h from the engine in cubic capacity and honest 80 on the former fifty dollars. With a long pair, everything will be much more interesting ...
Did you manage to charge? Good! Now you can throw in one more "good news." shovel, collect separators from the bearings along the bottom of the crankcase, change the camshaft, and so on. Since the GY6 is not equipped with liquid cooling and whales are not made either, apparently, considering that they just, damn it, do not heat up, you will have to practically reinvent the wheel. The maximum that can facilitate the already potentially difficult life of a packed motor is the installation of a blower impeller with a well thought-out angle of the cooling blades
and installing an oil cooler
Thus, it will be possible to reduce the maximum temperature of the motor by an average of 10-15 percent, and this is already something. file with a file so that it does not look like an iron.
All of the above is, as I said at the beginning, just a short educational program on the tuning of Chinese CVTs, because in an attempt to describe absolutely all the nuances, you can not fit into a decent book. What have you read here. Or have you already got sick? Anyway, for those who stubbornly and persistently continue to believe that "ketay does not knock" I recommend watching one entertaining video:
Yes! I completely forgot to discuss the issue of the resource of such tuning.Forget about the resource!
In April 2014, the question arose about replacing the Grace 150 scooter with something newer, since the mileage was about 15,000, small jambs appeared with a suspension, a variator and a rear caliper.There were no spare parts available and at a reasonable price in Sochi, and a decision was made to change the equipment.
Used equipment was considered, but becoming the owner of equipment, without any guarantees for reliability and with the prospect of additional investments, as it turned out, is possible only with a good deal of luck. One of the important factors in the choice was the consumption of gasoline and the mileage from refueling to refueling, since I act as a courier in my store and the cost of gasoline can affect the cost of delivery significant wear of the CPG, and downtime and costs due to repairs were not allowed.
It was very upsetting that on all used motorcycles a non-standard production with a decent level of noise was installed, due to the specifics of the store, delivery is made even at night, so noisy equipment did not fit.
As a result, options were considered:
SYM GTS 300, SYM Wolf 250, Hyosung GT250, Motoland / Senke X6
- The SYM GTS 300 scooter did not fit because of the extremely low ground clearance and the large base; it would not have reached the city with a whole bottom from home.
- Wolf 250. In general, I liked the bike, I was a little embarrassed by the protruding pump, in case of a fall - the first candidate for replacement. On the specimen, which I felt, the steering wheel bit slightly in the middle position.
- Hyousung GT250. Outwardly not bad, but the same Chinese bolts, the assembly of SYM is nicer. I didn't like the landing
- Senke X6. The appearance is normal, outwardly the assembly is at the level of SYM and Hyousung. I liked the landing.
In the end, I decided to choose between Wolf 250 and X6. The difference in price at that time was more than 100 sput. Wolf for 205 sput. and X6 for 95 sput. The reviews of the owners of both devices were studied, everything was pretty decent for the wolf, with the exception of the burst shock absorber rod. According to Senke, the facts of the death of the device seem to have been solely due to improper running-in. As a result, the difference in price, availability and cost of spare parts played in favor of Motoland X6
Initially, a black motorcycle was purchased. Alas, during a visit to the traffic police, he was stopped not far from his target for a document check. After examining the TCP, the inspector said that it was a piece of paper and was not a document. It turns out that the customs office forgot to put its seal, and this VIN was in the declaration and the signature was on. I exchanged the motorcycle for a red and black one, put it on record the next day. 
After the purchase, he began the ritual "Stretch All NetoNafig Will Fall Down". Surprisingly, nothing had to be tightened, and the suspension bolts were on the detent. Tidied up the tire pressure.
The run-in was slow and sad. but he turned 500 km no more than 4000, 60 km / h it was quite comfortable to ride, but he tried not to force the engine uphill and limited it to 40 km / h. It was very difficult to catch the neutral while standing, the box was a little "stiff". The first oil change was 400 km, I drained the Chinese break-in water, filled in Castrol ActEvo 10w40. Then I ran in up to 1500, gradually adding speed. At 1500 km I was already spinning up to 7500.
After 2000, the engine came to life, the working zone starts from 2500 and above, there are no special failures, at 6000 you can feel the pickup. With an increase in the outboard temperature, I changed the oil to 20w50, such a viscosity got Motul 7100. Yes, someone will say that it makes no sense to pour it into the Chinese, but after replacing the box works perfectly, the clutch does not lead to a cold one. I don’t regret it.
GPS clocked up to 125 km / h after running. Acceleration up to 90 km / h is very peppy. Comfortable maximum speed - 110-115 km / h. Doesn't blow out. It is controlled perfectly, does not throw on bumps.
Brakes - reinforced hoses, front and rear - disc, QT-6 two-cylinder. 
The rear ones are soft, during normal operation (downhill, engine braking) it is quite easy to block the wheel.
The front ones are "informative", reacting to the handle quite adequately. The pads in front and in the back seem to be the same.
The tires are CST Magsport, front 110/70/17, rear 140/60/17. To the touch - there is no difference with the Metzeller FreeRide that I put on the Grace. It keeps excellent in the rain. No complaints. Only on "plastic" markings in the rain - like on ice, but this is the norm 🙂
The front suspension has a soft ride of about 15 cm, the rear initially seemed hard, but then I got used to it, there is a monoshock. Comfortable in the city, tolerable on a dirt road.
LCD instrument panel, with a pointer tachometer. Total / daily mileage indication, speed, tank, current gear.
The backlight is green, does not hurt your eyes at night, everything is readable at any time of the day. The speedometer counts after 2 km / h, that is, 60 - 62 - 64. At 100 km / h, the GPS speedometer gives 92 km / h.
The light is weak, the lamp does not seem to be a halogen, but there is enough vision and does not require replacement. Rear brake, clearance, license plate lighting and direction indicators - LED, bright. Fixing the number requires an adapter or universal frame.
The tail gets dirty slightly when driving in the rain.
The landing is comfortable, for long trips (200-300 km) the hard seat is a little annoying. There is no comfort to the second number. 
Chain 428, stretching moderately, did not last even one division for 6000. 
According to information on the Internet, it turned out to be a Romet Division 249, a Polish model. Were studied including the Polish forums. And this is what turned out ...
In Poland, many shops and reviews present this bike as an in-line two-cylinder. Outwardly, yes ... two candles, two exhaust, a wide head 🙂 But in our country there is one cylinder - the second candle "works idle", ostensibly to protect against a short in the main one. Who is right? 
We remove the head (along the way, I opened the valves, for 40-degree heat, the gap at the outlet was between 0.05 and 0.1, the inlet was 0.05) 
Two valves, overhead camshaft 🙂 Naturally, there is one cylinder. On the head there is an adapter for two exhaust pipes. Most likely for decoration. The engine itself is 167FMM-M, with a balance shaft. There are no vibrations, only at 9000 something starts to be felt. The volume of oil is 1.2 liters.
The working candle is right, the second does not go into the combustion chamber. But what about the bike about protecting the coil with a second candle? 
One coil, the wire to the left candle easily slides along the main high-voltage wire on a plastic clamp 🙂 So the left candle is a spare. The candles, by the way, are D8RC. On the thread, instead of the left hike, you can put a temperature sensor from 2112.
Carburetor - PZ30, without accelerator pump. The filter is a foam rubber filter element. There is a reserve position on the gas crane - this is about 2 liters.
The switch surprised ... 
According to the marking it is "DC", and according to the connector (4 pins) it is "AC". And the available schemes speak about this.
The release is quiet, the sound is pleasant throughout the rev range. The muffler is in the casing, it is unrealistic to get burned. 
Under the saddle there is a connector for connecting a Chinese alarm; without a block, it is closed with a plug with a jumper.
Breakdowns, glitches - no. Generally. Operation is tough, those who live in Sochi know what it is to run from the center in Shepsi along a mountain serpentine in 40-degree heat 🙂 Livni, the heat did not affect this motorcycle. The engine power is enough for any maneuvers and there is no desire to "increase the cubic capacity". Consumption up to 4 liters per hundred in the city, less on the highway. The tank was about 20 liters, it was not possible to roll it out in a day. Of the special stages I installed only a fuel filter - they do not install it from the factory. The air filter gets dirty slightly, flushing revealed very little dirt at 5000 km.
Perhaps all this is a consequence of careful operation, or maybe some Chinese factories have learned to make high-quality equipment.
Table for editing
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yura hi i have a question what gaps should be in the compression rings in the cylinder how to understand that it is time to change them or not
yura hello you can somehow contact me need help with mot
funny singing esche vidyahi on this topic
164fml itself is not very strong in thrust. From this video I wanted to learn something new, but I have already produced the monipulation data. Bottom line: 115-117 kmch as before, BUT it is necessary to snuggle tightly against the tank, my steering wheel is high, not clip-ons, then it immediately goes into the front and gains 135 in the light, gave 148 to the maximum By the gear ratio and the air filter, I increased the compression ratio, switched to AI95 , put the pz-30 carburetor, adjusted the muffler and bored the exhaust windows
I have an alpha 50 cube how can I increase the speed
Any forcing of the engine significantly reduces its resource.
there are 2 more important and, in my opinion, improvements that will add a couple of hp: 1- this is to put the carburetor from a more cubature motor, from 300 somewhere, there is a larger diffuser and accordingly it will eat a little more from the tank more, 2- this is to put forward flow instead of a stock muffler.And advice, if you do not serve the zero-wheel with a special lubricant for it, but drive so that you put it on and forget, then there will be problems later with the CPU, put back the stock filter. Well, if you put a zero-point with 1 condition that there will be more air there, then it is easier to put a drain filter and instead of a drain filter cartridge in the filter replace it with a thinner one, the so-called paralon, or find it from a scooter, the paralon filters the air better than the mesh on zero
and the inscription suzuki + 10ls for sure
Chinese tuning, carber with 250 cc booster pumps
Yuri, please tell me what kind of Lifan 167fmm engine? What are the valve clearances for him?
to dial longer speed mode cool luck
Wouldn't there be any harm to the engine from zeroing? Or there are filters with impregnation, I heard something like that
I watch your videos, you are great, but I would like to hear more joy in my voice, less strain. Happiness to you, smooth roads and wind in your hair
and what do you recommend to do with a motorcycle xmoto fx 200 rides max. 115 km / h
I have a mustang mt 200-10 after watching your video, I managed to accelerate it to 145 km, but it seems to me that this is not the limit, since the engine works fine at this speed
how much can you increase the cubic capacity on a 200 cc engine
Please tell me the symbols are the initials of the stars, I want to stay but there is a leading star 520-17 166, 169FMM and the like with 17 teeth
try to modify the cylinder head channels and put forward flow.
but about zero for carb. This is how I don’t trust him. Yes, and to be honest, my 111max is enough for me. I took it at the rate of no more than 120. The video is very informative, like all the rest of this author, everything is intelligible and understandable
Now I'm poking around with a 190 cc engine from a power plant, but I don't increase the speed and power on it, on the contrary, I think how I can make idle less than a thousand, and about a thousand workers, so that it works smoothly and does not shake. this is for the boat. I make a cart with Nikasil's middle-aged Hirt.
Well, I would not dare to dabble with the 150th block and the 200th piston, although they also have four-valve heads. It is not very expensive, in parts, but for the total investment, later, you can probably buy and repair the same Hirt.
Well, I just had bad luck with that scooter, I'll admit it. Others, if they simply did not climb out of the garage with new mopeds, then I capitalized it several times over the summer. this does not happen on every corner, I just had no luck with that hole, I know that. Now the garage is already decently empty, because many of these over-aged children have moved to the Honda Dio, from the Japanese trash bin, and have stopped showing up there so often.
It doesn't matter how you use it. You put on new chains, in a month if you fit in there, God forbid, they will be pulled. You can leave them alone, but there is a rule to change everything on the Chinese motor if you climbed in there, otherwise the head will be left without oil somewhere when the chain telepaths below the pump star.
Hehe. I wasn’t just screwed up, I was screwed when I exchanged Dio for Haabon + continued with him for a year and a half and passed it on the go for 8000 rubles, so that I could get rid of it as soon as possible, while the opportunity arose.
We count;
Dio - 16,000 (that's how I bought it)
Repairs and replacements of short crankcases for long ones, small wheels for large ones, consumables, 125 heads for 150 -
10. 11000
Sold for 8000
_______________________
equals 19000 loss
So I did not list all the faults. The valve seat spilled out on the new head, since I had no idea that it needed to be ground. I bought a new 150 head, installed it and, after a couple of months, the pieces of the seat had already made dents on the piston. And each disassembly pulls the change of everything that needs to be changed.
Yes, I agree, I was completely fucked up then, but that's not the point. The most important thing is that someone does not turn out to be a complete idiot, when he assembles a Chinese 180 cc motor from a scooter, boosts it, and, if he does not fly into the cabbage in full, then crash with him to hell on a paraglider! Really, investing in a durable motor will cost you money, because if you squeeze 15 horses out of China, those glands are not three pennies, and there are no guarantees for them, because the pliers on the piston fingers leave deep seizures when they you take them out of the stuck piston.
I have nothing against riding, except for me, but I don’t know who can fly on this.
Edited: pnp1106 (03 Dec 2012), edited 3 times in total
Sasha, if in essence, then I can even add.
In my opinion, the Chinese do not pour the carter and the lids, but stamp it on the cold one. They are too thin and hard. I do not know for sure, but I assume that they are forged and stamped. The geometric quality of the crankcases and other "casting" is the highest, but the metal itself is some kind of shit. Constantly stripped threads, etc. That is, in terms of workmanship, they are all at their best, no Zhiguli has ever dreamed of such beautiful processing. Likewise, in terms of breakdowns, they differ from Lada. Nothing breaks on the Lada, the Lada itself does not work. And here on the other hand - in addition to natural wear and tear, new pieces of iron are constantly breaking. What is happening is poorly predictable.
At the expense of warming up - nope, they cool, I would say, gorgeous. They have no problems with cooling. All sticking, blue discoloration and collapse were associated with lubrication. In more than half of the cases, the engine died due to oil loss. Moreover, it doesn't matter if the oil was good or bad, if it is not there, then the engine turns blue in places and welds to itself. My friend has been driving a fifty-kopeck piece that he bought from some kid, for 3500 wheels, for five years now. I have never changed the oil, have not rinsed the engine, only topped it up. Of course, everything is snotty and pulled inside, but he drives and drives fast.
In general, while you are slowly moving on them, it is mainly the wiring, hoses, multi-turn ignition coils on the generator that break down, the crankcase crumbles where the kickstarter shafts break, the exhaust pipes from the head to the mufflers break, burn out or crumple, etc. But when you start to carry carts on it, with a passenger, when he is loaded, then anything more responsible and powerful begins to fall apart.
The kid licked the 150-ku for several days. I licked it, everything is new, put it on, started it up, ran it in - a couple of weeks later my finger burst in half. True, I never caught up with how he could burst, he's soft as a nail (shrug). He grabbed his head, like - "Why did I try so hard?".
It would be interesting for me to do this, but I am almost sure that with the best result, there will be a year-round capital if it is shoved into aviation. Go for it, this is terribly interesting in fact. If there are failures, in the end, then at least the memories will remain 
Take it, even if you don't get it, you will take a lot of pictures
I will cheer for you
At the expense of one spark per turn - do not worry, this is normal, they work like that, they do not have a distributor. One spark, as it should be, the second spark until the inlet valve opens, that is, when smoke and flame in it still comes out through the outlet valve. In the same “Ural” it is exactly the same. There, in general, the ends of the high-voltage coil go out to the candles, - the two ends of the coil - each to its own candle. They spark in two cylinders symmetrically, in the left and in the right, from the same coil, at the same time.
Edited by: Guest (03 Dec 2012), edited 4 times in total
_________________
from any peaks to hell in hell
If, scattering the collective farm dirt,
The tractor is bypassed by some fool
This is not a bad vodka.
Before you is an enduro motorcycle!
_________________
Where the network goes to "you", in real life they are already hitting the face.
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ICQ UIN: 4877386
_________________
from any peaks to hell in hell
If, scattering the collective farm dirt,
The tractor is bypassed by some fool
This is not a bad vodka.
Before you is an enduro motorcycle!
Roman Zhuchkov: my 3rd gear is noisy, why? and can something be covered?
Aleksey Ivanov: And what is the reason for such a breakdown.
Artem Kurakin: It's okay for me to ride a motorcycle, ride a lot of mileage))
Arthur Volkov: oh how. I fucked the same box)
step by step instructions for disassembling the lifan enduro 250 cross engine
a detailed description of the assembly of the lifan enduro cross engine in the 2nd part.
The reason for the "wedge" of the engine 166 FMM (Irbis TTR 250)
continuation of the history of this engine here
Repair of the IRBIS TTR 250 motorcycle. Repair of the 166 FMM engine. Installing the oil pump.
Repair of the IRBIS TTR 250 motorcycle. Repair of the 166 FMM engine. Installing the oil pump.
engine clutch basket play 166fmm
the nuances of the clutch on a Chinese motor.
Assembling the Irbis TTR 250 (166 FMM) engine / Gearbox repair / Rings replacement
I bought everything you need to repair the engine after a gearbox breakdown: * second gear gear - 250 rubles. *rings.
Rebuilding 166fmm engine after wedge
Video “cause of WEDGE engine 166fmm” Video “oil change of pitbike irbis ttr 125, what to fill? “.
# 1 Parsing 166FMM (164fmm 164fml 165fmm etc.)
Watch the second part and ask questions in groups) Second part.
Kayo T2 169FMM 166FMM engine assembly. Gearbox repair
The process of assembling an engine on a Kayo T2, which has a broken first gear. Video analysis of the engine.
Engines and consumables for Chinese snowmobiles:
Snowmobile Irbis Dingo Т150; - engine 4Т 157QMJ (GY6) 149.5 cm3 (oil cooler, manual starter)
Switch (CDI) 139FMB, 147FMH, 152FMI - (4-pin.)
Zero Resistance Air Filter - D42 Type 10
CVT belt - 743x20
Spark plug 4T C7HSA NGK
Spark plug 4T CR7HS NGK
Battery - not serviced, 12V9Ah
Snowmobile Irbis Dingo Т125; - engine 4T 152FMI 124.9 cm3
Ignition coil with spark plug cap 4T 139FMB, 147FMH, 152FMI
Switch (CDI) 139FMB, 147FMH, 152FMI, AF27 (5pin.)
Spark plug 4T C7HSA NGK
Spark plug 4T CR7HS NGK
Battery - gel, 12V7Ah, size 150X86X94
Irbis ATV 250s ATV; - engine 4Т 167MM (CG250), 229.5 cm3 (liquid cooling, 4 + 1, reverse)
Switch (CDI) 154FMI, 157FMI, 166FMM, ATV150-250 (6-pin (4-2)
Ignition coil and spark plug cap 4T 153FMI, 154FMI, 162FMJ, 166FMM
Battery - gel, 12V9Ah, size 135x75x140
Candle - A7RTC
Irbis ATV200u ATV; - engine 4Т 163FMJ (CG200), 196.9 cm3
Relay voltage regulator 12V (kont: 2-2)
Battery - dry-charged, 12V9Ah, size 150x87x93
Spark plug 4T D8EA NGK 4
Spark plug 4T DPR7EA9 NGK
Spark plug 4T DR8EA NGK
Irbis ATV150u ATV; - engine 4Т 157QMJ (GY6,) 149.5 cm3
Ignition coil and spark plug cap 4T 157FMI, 162FMJ, 166FMM (CG, GY, CB125-250)
Switch (CDI) 154FMI, 157FMI, 166FMM, ATV150-250 (6.pin. (4-2)
Battery - dry-charged, 12V6Ah, size 150x87x93
Spark plug 4T C7HSA NGK 5
Spark plug 4T CR7HS NGK
Children's petrol ATV Irbis ATV125; - engine 4T 152FMI (CUB) 124.9 cm3
Switch (CDI) 139FMB, 147FMH, 152FMI (5pin.)
Relay voltage regulator 12V (kont: 2-2);
Ignition coil and spark plug cap 4T 139FMB, 147FMH, 152FMI; ALPHA, ATV50
Spark plug 4T C7HSA NGK
Spark plug 4T CR7HS NGK
Battery - dry-charged, 12V4Ah, size 120x65x90
Engines and consumables on Chinese motorcycles;
Irbis TTR250R motorcycle; - engine 4T 165FMM (CB250), 223cm3 (manual transmission) ZONGSHEN
Spark plug 4T DPR7EA9 NGK
Spark plug 4T D8EA NGK
Spark plug 4T DR8EA NGK
Battery - dry-charged, 12V6Ah, size 150x87x93
Irbis TTR150 motorcycle; - engine 4T 156FMJ (CUB), 140cm3 (manual transmission), with oil. radiator
Carburetor 4T 156FMJ (with tap) PZ22
Spark plug 4T NGK C7HSA
Spark plug 4T NGK CR7HS
Spark plug 4T NGK CR8E
Battery - gel, 12V5Ah
Irbis TTR125R motorcycle; - engine 4T 154FMI (CUB), 123.6 cm3 (manual transmission, 1-n-2-3-4)
Carburetor 4T 154FMI PZ26
Chain (428 * 110)
Zero resistance filter D38, type 8
Ignition coil and spark plug cap 4T 153FMI, 154FMI, 162FMJ, 166FMM
Switch (CDI) 139FMB, 147FMH, 152FMI (4pin.)
Spark plug 4T C7HSA NGK
Spark plug 4T CR7HS NGK
Spark plug 4T NGK CR8E
Battery - gel, 12V5Ah, size 113x70x105
Irbis Garpia 250 motorcycle; - engine 4T 165FMM (CB250), 223cm3 (manual transmission) ZONGSHEN
Spark plug 4T DPR7EA9 NGK
Spark plug 4T D8EA NGK
Spark plug 4T DR8EA NGK
Battery - gel, 12V7Ah, size 150x88x94
Motorcycle Irbis VJ250 and GR250; - engine 4T 165FMM (CB250), 223cm3 (manual transmission) ZONGSHEN
Spark plug 4T DPR7EA9 NGK
Spark plug 4T D8EA NGK
Spark plug 4T DR8EA NGK
Battery - dry-charged, 12V6Ah, size 150x87x93
Irbis Intruder 200 and VR-1 motorcycle; - engine 4T 163FMJ (CG200), 196.9 cm3 (manual transmission, 1-n-2-3-4-5)
Ignition coil and spark plug cap 4T 157FMI, 162FMJ, 166FMM (CG, GY, CB125-250)
Switch (CDI) 157FMI, 162FMJ, 166FMM, (6-pin (4-2)
Spark plug 4T DPR7EA9 NGK
Spark plug 4T DR8EA NGK
Spark plug 4T D8EA NGK
Battery - gel, 12V5Ah, size 113x70x105
or 12V6Ah (150x87x93) (dry dry, maintenance-free) and 12V7Ah (150x86x94) (gel, maintenance-free)
Irbis GS 150 motorcycle; - 162 FMJ engine
Ignition coil and spark plug cap 4T 157FMI, 162FMJ, 166FMM (CG, GY, CB125-250)
Switch (CDI) 154FMI, 157FMI, 166FMM, ATV150-250 (6-pin (4-2)
Spark plug 4T DPR7EA9 NGK
Spark plug 4T DR8EA NGK
Spark plug 4T D8EA NGK
Battery - gel, 12V5Ah, size 113x70x105
Irbis Z1 motorcycle; - engine 170MM (SVV250), 250 cm3, (liquid cooling DONS, manual transmission)
Spark plug 4T, DPR7EA9 NGK
Spark plug 4T, DR8EA NGK
Spark plug 4T, D8EA NGK
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This article is from the store where motorcycles, snowmobiles and ATVs from China are truly loved! Here you can buy for a competitive market price not only motor vehicles from the "celestial Empire", but also assembled engines for your equipment. You just have to call and find out the price.
