In detail: engine a 41 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Water went into the sump on a diesel engine a - 41, from under the nozzle glass.
"0:09 Chapter 1. General information" "1:31 Chapter 2. Main components and mechanisms of engines" "4:27 Chapter 3. Cooling system.
Another issue about the everyday life of an ordinary economy in the south of the country, which, fortunately, survived to ours.
DT-75. Remove the pallet on A - 41.
Another issue about the everyday life of an ordinary economy in the south of the country, which, fortunately, survived to ours.
the piston engine A - 41 is born in more detail.
The engine on the TT-4 tractor started knocking in the morning, white smoke came from the air vents, and we drove to the place of repair on small ones.
Technique for testing the fuel pump A - 41 of DT-75 tractors on the KI-22201A test bench. Pump troubleshooting.
Another issue about the everyday life of an ordinary economy in the south of the country, which, fortunately, survived to ours.
Another issue about the everyday life of an ordinary economy in the south of the country, which, fortunately, survived to ours.
If you are fed up with starter motors, this video is for you. The conversion is very simple and cheap. Me.
Always available spare parts for tractors T-4, DT-75, MTZ, K-700, TT-4M, etc. Possibility to deliver rare spare parts on order.
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The tractor engine is called the heart of technology, because without a system that would drive all the elements, movement is impossible. When one of the spare parts fails, it must be repaired or replaced.
Repair of the DT 75 engine consists in replacing worn out elements or carrying out repair work, if possible. When repairing, consider the engine model and carefully select the manufacturer of the parts to be used in the repair. If you are a mechanic, then you can carry out the repair work yourself. If such a skill is absent in your arsenal, contact a specialized center, where they will carry out a full diagnosis, repair the DT 75 engine and replace the necessary parts.
Video (click to play).
When sending the engine for repair, it is dismantled from the tractor. In addition, dismantling of all parts and mechanisms that prevent the removal of the engine is carried out. In particular, the hood, the radiator for cooling water and oil, the gearbox drive cardan, the removal of the engine mount to the frame. The motor is removed from the tractor using a crane or winch.
As a rule, minor or current repair work, using the necessary mechanisms, does not take much time. But in order to prevent force majeure from happening at the most unfortunate moment, pay attention to the operational periods of the parts and diagnose the equipment in a timely manner. If necessary, replace the piston group, liners, if necessary, grind the crankshaft, replace the seals.
You can read in more detail in our repair manual for tractor engine DT-75.
We also recommend that you take a look at our section. DT-75 repair video
FEATURES OF ASSEMBLY AND DISASSEMBLY OF MAIN UNITS AND MECHANISMS OF A-01, A-01M and A-41 ENGINES
When assembling the cylinder block and the crank mechanism, the following rules must be followed:
1. When putting rubber O-rings on the cylinder liner, they must not be twisted in the grooves. The rubber rings and the lower seat belt in the cylinder block (0151 mm) must be lubricated with diesel oil, otherwise the rubber rings may be damaged when installing the liners in the block. The lead-in chamfer on the lower landing belt in the cylinder block must be flat, clean, without nicks.
The ovality of new cylinder liners with the cylinder head fixed should not exceed 0.03-0.05 mm.
2. Before assembling the piston with the connecting rod and the pin, the piston should be heated in an oil bath to a temperature of 80–100 ° C. It is prohibited to press the piston pin into the piston in a cold state.
The connecting rod with the piston must be assembled so that the combustion chamber is displaced towards the long connecting rod bolt. When installing a piston with a connecting rod in the cylinder block, the chamber in the piston must be displaced from the axis of the cylinders in the direction opposite to the camshaft.
3. Compression rings must be installed on the piston with chamfers upwards, it should be borne in mind that the upper ring is chrome-plated, and the rest is not chrome-plated.
Large deformations of the rings must not be allowed when they are installed in the piston grooves, therefore it is recommended to use a special the device shown in figure 19, which limits the expansion of the rings to an outer diameter of 142.5 mm.
4. When installing a piston with piston rings in a cylinder liner, a technological tapered mandrel ("false liner") should be used to avoid damage to the rings, as shown in Figure 20.
5. It is necessary to remove the liners from the cylinder block using a puller (Fig. 21), which is inserted into the inner cavity of the liner.
6. Before installing the parts of the piston group in the engine cylinders, the locks of the adjacent piston rings should be located at an angle of 120-180 ° to one another. The rings installed in the piston grooves must move freely in them under the influence of their own weight.
The radial clearance between the rings and grooves (when they are covered by a cage of 130 mm in diameter) must be observed within the following limits (Table 4).
7. When laying the crankshaft into the cylinder block and installing parts of the connecting rod-piston group, it is necessary that the number (standard) of the production (1H, 2H) or repair (PI, P2, РЗ) size of the connecting rod and main journals of the crankshaft correspond to the number ( standard) earbuds.
It is not allowed to install the shaft and bushings of different sizes, as this will lead to seizure of the crankshaft.
Before assembly, it is necessary to clean, flush with kerosene or diesel fuel and blow with compressed air the oil cavities and channels in the cylinder block, crankshaft and in the connecting rods. Nicknames, dents, burrs and marks must be carefully cleaned out. The beds and external surfaces should be wiped dry, and the crankshaft journals should be lubricated with a thin layer of clean diesel oil.
It is forbidden to scrape the liners, file the main bearing caps, put any gaskets between the liner and its bed and between the bearing connector planes, move the connecting rod caps from one connecting rod to another or turn them over, move the main bearing caps from one place to another.
When assembling the piston group and the crankshaft, use wooden or copper hammers and drifts.
8. It should be borne in mind that tightening the connecting rod bolts must start with a long (tight) bolt. Otherwise, this can lead to a violation of the seating of the spline joint and deformation of the connecting rod bed.
Do not reuse connecting rod bolt lock washers on engine bulkheads and do not use homemade lock washers.
9. It is recommended to tighten the nuts of the main bearing caps in the order shown in Figure 22, in two steps with a torque wrench, using a tightening torque of 41-44 kgm. Install bearing caps in accordance with the numbers stamped on them.
10. The nuts securing the cylinder heads to the block must be tightened in the order shown in Figure 23, in two steps (preliminary and final).
When the engine is cold, the tightening torque of the nuts
fastening of cylinder heads should be 16-18 kgm, in hot - 18-20 kgm.
11. If it is necessary to disassemble the balancing mechanism, use a bearing puller to press out the bearings (fig. 24).
To do this, you need to loosen the bolts 11 (see Fig.18) fastening the plates 8, unscrew them and remove the plates. Then, with a light blow of a hammer or a punch on the end face of the load-gear axis, move the load to either side until it stops against the inner walls of the mechanism body. Under the influence of the displacement of the load, the outer bearing races will be pressed out of the bore of the mechanism case. Then press out the outer bearing race with a puller. Then press the inner cage with the same puller, and then remove the gear weight from the case.
Assemble in reverse order. It is recommended to press on the bearing simultaneously into the housing and onto the journal of the load-pinion.
It should be borne in mind that the outer ring of bearing No. 12507KM is fitted to the inner race and is not interchangeable with other bearings.
When installing the balancing mechanism on the engine, the marks of the gears and the crankshaft rim must be aligned. After installing the mechanism with the position of the piston of the first cylinder in V. m. t. gear weights must be turned downward with an accuracy of ± 5 °.
When installing the balancing mechanism on the engine, between the mechanism body and the cylinder block mating plane, it is necessary to install shims, with which they provide a lateral clearance between the teeth in engagement of the gear-weight with the crankshaft rim (0.25-0.4 mm on the dipstick). Violation of this clearance during assembly, both in the direction of decreasing and in the direction of increasing it, can lead to increased noise in the meshing and emergency wear of the gear teeth.
The build quality of the balancing mechanism is checked by manually turning the weights in the bearings. The gears must return to their original position under the action of their own weight.
The assembly of the cylinder heads begins with the installation and grinding of the valves. The valves are installed in the guide bushings, while the valve should fit into the bore of the bushing easily, under the influence of its own weight. Then the valve is lapped until the required tightness of the tapered chamfer of the socket (or seat) of the cylinder head and valve is achieved.
After lapping the valves, the head is cleaned of lapping paste and washed.
It is recommended to disassemble and assemble the valve mechanism using a tool (Fig. 25).
For the convenience of dismantling the nozzle cup (when replacing the rubber ring or copper gasket under the cup), you can use a puller (see Fig. 108). When replacing the studs, use a stud driver (fig. 26).
The flywheel mounting bolts, connecting rod caps, the pinion bolt on the camshaft, the pusher axle support bolts, the rocker arm axle struts fastening nuts should be securely locked. In this case, the antennae of the washers should fit snugly against the edge of the bolt or nut. In the case of a blockage with a wire, it must be pulled in the direction of wrapping.
When pressing frame oil seals (cuffs) into body parts (flywheel housing, gear housing cover, cylinder head cap), the oil seal must not be skewed and chipped on its surface.
The sealing lip must be even and smooth. Before installing on the shaft, the gland surface must be lubricated with US grease (grease) or CIATIM-201.
All gaskets must be free from crinkling and tearing.
General assembly order. To assemble engines on a production line under the conditions of specialized repair enterprises, racks-racks or conveyors are used, which make it easy to install them in a convenient position for assembly. For individual assembly of engines, the universal stand OPR-989 is used [Fig. 26] and others.
Rice. 26. Universal stand OPR-989 for disassembling and assembling the engine.
WITHstart assembling the cylinder block: you need to install bushings and a camshaft, pusher bushings and pushers, oil seals and decompressor rollers, oil pipes. Then you should once again blow through the oil passages in the block with compressed air and install the idler pin, pins and other parts.
V the block is laid with a crankshaft with main bearings, then the cylinder liners, a connecting rod-piston set, a rear beam and a flywheel, an oil pump and a crankcase, a cylinder head, a turbocharger and a rocker mechanism, fuel equipment, filters and pipelines, intake and exhaust manifolds, a water pump are installed and fan, gearbox, starting motor and clutch in a sequence that depends on the design of the engine.
Installing the crankshaft. It is recommended to first assemble and tighten the main bearings without a shaft. The tightening torque of the nuts for YaMZ-238NB engines is 422-460 Nm for the main bolts; adjacent 98-118 N.m .; A-01 and A-41 - 410-440; type SMD - 200-220 N.m (bolts SMD-60 - 160-180 N.m); D-37M - 140-160 N.m; ZMZ-53A - 110-120 N.m; ZIL-130 - 110-130 N.m for the front and 80-100 N.m. for the rest of the bearings. Measurements determine their ovality, taper, oil gap and displacement of the upper insert relative to the lower one. In order to provide an 80% resource, during overhaul, the clearances in the main bearings are not more than: 0.156 mm - SMD-60, 0.160 mm - A01M; 0.180 mm - A-41; 0.120 mm - D-37M; 0.08 mm - ZMZ-53A; 0.065 mm - ZIL-130; 0.130 mm - YaMZ-238NB.
TOLubricate the shaft journals with a thin layer of oil, install the spacer half rings, then lay the crankshaft. First, the middle main bearing is evenly tightened in two or three steps. If the shaft turns easily by the bolt in the flange, then the remaining bearing caps are tightened evenly. If the shaft turns tight, then it should be removed and the necks should be lubricated with a thin layer of paint. Then you need to re-lay the shaft, turn it, disassemble, inspect - by the ink prints on the liners, determine the cause of the tight turning and eliminate it.
PMoving the crankshaft along the axis, check the axial take-off run with a feeler gauge, which for diesel engines ranges from 0.1-0.4 mm, for automobile engines 0.08-0.25 mm. The axial take-off is regulated by the selection of the thickness of the spacer half rings, the thickness of the shoulder of the mounting bearing, or other devices for engines of this type.
PCorrectly laid shaft should turn from the force of the hand applied to the connecting rod journals.
Installing sleeves in the block. The sleeves, which are installed in the block, must be of the same size group, new or of the same repair size, and in the block without O-rings must be free to rotate.
PAfter installing the O-rings, the sleeves should be pressed into the block using a tool with a hydraulic (pneumatic) press or a wooden block and a hammer. It is not allowed to cut the O-ring when pressing.
PAfter pressing-in, the sleeve should protrude 0.10-0.21 mm above the plane of the block for diesel engines SMD-17, SMD-18; 0.09-0.15 mm for D-240, D-241; 0.07-0.27 mm for D-160; 0.65-0.165 mm for diesel engines of other brands. The difference in the protrusion of the sleeves for one block is not more than 0.05 mm. The protrusion allowed without repair is 0.04 mm (for A-01M and A-41 diesel engines, the protrusion is 0.05 mm).
PWith a pressed-in and fixed head, the ovality and taper of the sleeves on the working area are checked from the side of the crankcase (no more than 0.03 mm is allowed).
PWhen carrying out routine repairs, the sleeves must be installed in the block, turning around the axis by 90 degrees relative to the previous position, in order to increase the subsequent service life due to a decrease in ovality.
Installing the connecting rod and piston kit. The kit and the inner surface of the liner must be lubricated with diesel oil before installation.The locks of the first and second piston rings are located at an angle of 180 degrees relative to each other on the pistons of YaMZ-238NB, SMD-18 diesel engines, and between the second and third - at an angle of 90 degrees. On the pistons of ZMZ-53, SMD-60, A-01M and other engines, the locks are positioned at an angle of 120 degrees to one another. In this case, the locks should not be placed against the axis of the finger.
ShThe atunno-piston set is installed into the block from the side of the cylinder head using a ring compression device. In this case, you should pay special attention to the correctness of its location relative to the block (combustion chamber, slots in the piston skirt, arrows on the piston crown, etc.).
BBolts or nuts of connecting rod bearings are tightened with a torque wrench, maintaining a torque of 240-260 Nm. for diesel engines SMD-60; 196-216 N.m. for YaMZ-238NB, YaMZ-240B; 170-190 N.m. for A-01M, A-41; 140-160 N.m. for D-50, SMD-17, SMD-18 and others; 100-120 N.m. for D-37M, D-144, D-21; 68-76 N.m. for carburetor engines ZMZ-53N; 70-80 N.m. for ZIL-130. In ZMZ-53 engines, when assembling the lower connecting rod head, the protrusion on the cover and the number on the connecting rod must match.
PAfter installing the connecting rods, the crankshaft turning moment should not exceed 50 Nm.
Dthe bottom of the pistons after installing the connecting rod-piston set in position b. m. t. should protrude or sink relative to the plane of the block by the size shown in table 52.
Table 52. The location of the piston crown in relation to the density of the block.
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Please tell me, I want to disassemble the engine. but 41 repairs, something pressure jumps, what features and what you need to pay attention to when disassembling, repairing and assembling the engine, thank you all in advance!
Does the pressure sensor work? It's just that the pressure doesn't jump. It is either always low or normal.
Please tell me, I want to disassemble the engine. but 41 repairs, something pressure jumps, what features and what you need to pay attention to when disassembling, repairing and assembling the engine, thank you all in advance!
Hello colleague, is the pallet crumpled?
Perhaps the intake in the pallet is unscrewed from trembling, I had this.
I will be noted
Let's take it apart, don't be afraid, here on the forum the guys are normal, they will always tell you if anything. I just bought my own, as I bought the tractor, I didn't even start it, I immediately disassembled it. During the winter I grinded the shaft, bought spare parts, I'll start assembling in two weeks, just for a couple and we will.
The guys will assemble the engine take a photo review what and how
