Engine briggs stratton 650 do it yourself repair

Details: engine briggs stratton 650 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Service center Rem Tech Service offers services for the repair of internal combustion engines Briggs Stratton 650

The most commonly used in gardening and construction equipment (lawn mowers, cultivators, walk-behind tractors, gas generators) is the Briggs Stratton 650 engine, which we successfully service and repair in our service center.

The experts of our company will eliminate any problems in the Briggs Stratton 650 engine, because have a lot of experience.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the main problems in the Briggs Stratton 650 engine

1.Noise of crankshaft bearings

2.The knock of the connecting rod during operation or when changing the load

4. Engine Wedge: (The main cause of wedge or knocking is insufficient quantity)

5.Failure of the mechanical governor

6.Engine smokes under load or idle (CPG wear)

8.Oil leaking crankcase cover or crankshaft oil seals

9.In rare cases - no compression (sticking rings)

10.It starts badly - timely service was not done

11.Does not pull the load that previously pulled

Briggs Stratton 650 engines are often brought in, which smoke and consume a large amount of oil. The reason usually lies in improper operation (work without an air filter, work with a very dirty filter, work without maintenance for a large number of motor hours)

Reasons for engine smoke.

With prolonged use of the engine without an air filter, there is an increased wear of the cylindrical group. As a result, the oil scraper rings do not cope with their work and, as a result, oil enters the combustion chamber, and smoke forms during combustion. In this case, you will need to replace the rings.

Video (click to play).

Putting new rings on a worn out cylinder - it is possible to remove the breakage for a while, but this will not solve the problem as a whole.

For the global elimination of the breakdown, it will be necessary to replace the engine block and rings and, if necessary, the piston group.

Without skills, it is better not to try to conduct engine repair Briggs Stratton 650 do it yourself, since not qualified intervention will only aggravate the situation and increase the cost of repairs several times.

Contact the specialists in our person, save your money, time and nerves.

If the breakdown does not require spare parts that we deliver to the client, then the repair is carried out as soon as possible. The cost and terms are announced to the client immediately after a thorough diagnostics of the equipment. And the decision on the appropriateness of the repair is always yours. If the customer refuses to further repair, only diagnostics are paid. Also in our service center we offer you a new service for the exchange of old equipment, the repair of which can sometimes take 80% of its cost for a new one. Check the details with our managers at the indicated phone numbers.

Turning to RemTechService, be sure that your equipment is in the reliable and skillful hands of our specialists.

Repair of the Briggs Stratton 650 engine is required, call: 063 202-90-70 097 023-42-42

Good day!
Since 2003 worked properly and without breakdowns, in 2014 the oil was changed once every 2 years (8 acres), in 2014 a friend filled it with a mixture of gasoline and oil (1:40), raised it a little and it seemed like everything, then the power dropped.
The last time I started to start it - I can't pull the cord, as if it were interfering, I started it with an effort and went white smoke from the exhaust, the power dropped significantly. Outwardly, I diagnosed the valve rings for replacement. can be done in the service, but I want it myself, and I feel sorry for the money.
disassembled, found no obvious damage,
1.in the combustion chamber - small metal residues of something
2. there are metal balls on the piston, a little shavings
3.Longitudinal seizure marks on the bottom of the piston (closer to the connecting rod)
4. rings like whole

I would be glad to advice where to buy rings?

samart63, Add different pictures. Head from the inside, cylinder from above, insides.
Such seizures on the piston skirt are obtained if any debris hangs in the engine oil, such as sand that got along with the oil or shavings formed from the operation of the gears, or when the bearing is worn out, or a collapsed part. Inspect all details carefully. And what are the balls in the chamber? Anything can form there or get out from under the valve, or a piece of the piston or part of the spark plug has broken off.

My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.

samart63 wrote:
2. there are metal balls on the piston, a little shavings

Look at the top, bottom connecting rod heads?
?

Jesha,
mastera, Good afternoon! Thank you for responding. I added a photo of the cylinder, scuffs, there are no steps, I found the damage, the only thing is that one of the two finger mounts in the piston is missing (maybe there is only one), the finger has 5-6 mm longitudinal movement in the piston, there is no backlash, the lower part of the connecting rod preparation without damage

samart63 wrote:
I added a photo of the cylinder, scuffs, no steps, I found the damage, the only thing is that one of the two finger mounts in the piston is missing

There should be two retaining rings of the fingers. Apparently one burst and the engine could make those incomprehensible metal balls out of it. Pieces, as they decrease, could get into both the pan and the combustion chamber, especially they should be in the oil drainage ring.
There are seizures on the cylinder (in the photo there is a red circle), you need to look at what height they rise. See also the head pad. In the place where the Green circle is in the photo. Something very red. Is the gasket burnt out there? From her, too, pieces could fall here and there.
Judging by the soot on the piston, the rings must be carefully removed from the piston (remembering how they stood) and put into the cylinder, to see the gap. (photo) On the left you can see the print from the gasket, clean and even.
Dry the valves, see the saddles. Not convenient, but necessary. I used a large pair of tweezers and two screwdrivers. Do not confuse tappets and valves.

My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.

samart63 wrote:
Good day!
Since 2003 worked properly and without breakdowns, in 2014 the oil was changed once every 2 years (8 acres), in 2014 a friend filled it with a mixture of gasoline and oil (1:40), raised it a little and it seemed like everything, then the power dropped.
The last time I started to start it - I can't pull the cord, as if it were interfering, I started it with an effort and went white smoke from the exhaust, the power dropped significantly. Outwardly, I diagnosed the valve rings for replacement. can be done in the service, but I want it myself, and I feel sorry for the money.
disassembled, found no obvious damage,
1.in the combustion chamber - small metal residues of something
2. there are metal balls on the piston, a little shavings
3.Longitudinal seizure marks on the bottom of the piston (closer to the connecting rod)
4. rings like whole

I would be glad to advice where to buy rings?

Do you have a BRIGS 2 tactician or what? What a tarpan - there is a photo, they have 4-stroke engines. Oil and gasoline are poured into 2-stroke cycles. And Briggs oil and gasoline separately. You know yourself.
An acquaintance helped you, made a problem. Where do you live? This is yours -

Pa wrote:
Do you have a BRIGS 2 tactician or what?

My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.

Jesha, what are saddles looking for?

Pa,
Yes, 4-stroke tactician I live in Samara
At the bottom of the sites, they answered me the following
The typical death of engines of this brand is described. The rings and filling with the mixture have nothing to do with it, the decompressor or centrifugal regulator has collapsed. The repair is economically inexpedient.
What is a decompressor or centrifugal regulator?

samart63 wrote:
Pa,
Yes, 4-stroke tactician I live in Samara
At the bottom of the sites, they answered me the following
The typical death of engines of this brand is described. The rings and filling with the mixture have nothing to do with it, the decompressor or centrifugal regulator has collapsed. The repair is economically inexpedient.
What is a decompressor or centrifugal regulator?

I want to know, is the cast iron sleeve worth it? Search for spare parts by engine brand. I have Tarpan, he is very many years old, from whom he took it was reported that in order to kill this engine, you need to try very hard.
If a mixture of gasoline and oil has been used while the engine is running, this is not good. A friend said he had a vibrator and he had similar things. Everything has changed and it works.
I just add oil like 3 years, the power did not drop, I looked at the insides, everything shines like “a cat's yay-a”, the output is 0.

Look in MASTERCITY there is a topic about Briggs engines

USER MANUAL

samart63 wrote:
What is a decompressor or centrifugal regulator?

Decompressor - on the camshaft near the exhaust valve cam, opens the valve slightly at startup, automatically turns off when accelerating. CRO - here (my photo):

samart63 wrote:
At the bottom of the sites, they answered me the following
The typical death of engines of this brand is described. The rings and filling with the mixture have nothing to do with it, the decompressor or centrifugal regulator has collapsed. The repair is economically inexpedient.

Hopefully not in "reply-mail"? You can also ask on ForumHouse in the topic "Malfunctions of walk-behind tractors and motor-cultivators", many on this and that forum, but at the FH as a moderator, the person working in the service really helps a lot. There is also "Lunokhodov.net", there are also enough engines.

samart63 wrote:
Jesha, what are saddles looking for?

Integrity and lapping of the valve.

My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.

Yes, the valve needs to be ground in! Who did that? And what is the sequence of the valve regulation procedure?

They rub in normally. The valve has slots (DM1), behind them, with the addition of lapping paste to the seat, with a screwdriver and with a clamp, we rotate the handles back and forth. Until an even print appears. Then, with a pencil, draw risks and control rotation. The risks should be wiped out all. We collect and check.
In the photo, it turned out to be a wide track. But modern cones (from the Zhiguli the classics came up in size) could not cope with the Socialist saddle. The USSR rules.

My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.

Jesha,
From a neighboring forum, Valeric gave a sensible suggestion
In general, the symptoms are when the cord is not pulled, that the walk-behind tractor was tilted and oil from the crankcase got into the combustion chamber. And of course white smoke is a product of its combustion. I hope you read the instructions that the walk-behind tractor cannot be tilted at an angle of more than 20 degrees
Diagnosis one: Why the heck was opened? Well, since you have already opened, find the piston rings, new gaskets and change.

nbari wrote:
Yes, the valve needs to be ground in! Who did that?

On YouTube there are a lot of videos on grinding valves in car engines, but the essence is the same.

nbari wrote:
And what is the sequence of the valve regulation procedure?

Valve adjustment in the Honda GX 200 engine, as well as in similar engines (including Chinese ones). The order in which the valves are adjusted does not matter. Valve adjustment clearances. Intake valve (Intake) - 0.15 mm. Exhaust valve - 0.20 mm. 1. Unscrew the spark plug. 2. Remove the valve cover. 3. Adjust the piston to top dead center. (It can be determined by inserting, for example, an electrode or a long screwdriver into the candle hole, with all this, both valves should be closed, i.e. the rocker should not press on the valve.). 4. Adjust the inlet valve. We loosen the nuts that hold down the rocker arm. 5. Insert the dipstick (plate 0.15 mm thick) between the rocker arm and the valve stem (where the return spring is). 6. We bring the rocker arm to the dipstick, tighten the nuts. The dipstick should not go very tightly and not very loosely between the rocker arm and the stem. Items 4, 5, 6, we do the same with the exhaust valve.How to identify the inlet and outlet valve? If you look at the head from the front, then the inlet valve will be on the right, that is, there will be an exhaust valve on the left. The second option: on the carburetor side - inlet, on the exhaust side - outlet.

The Kulibin service center repairs Briggs Stratton engines of any complexity. We accept for repair any equipment with engines of this brand. We are engaged in any modifications of such engines, we always have spare parts and consumables for various models.

American engines Briggs Stratton have established themselves as reliable and not fastidious units, the company is actively developing and creates more and more new and improved engines. But no matter how high-quality equipment is, sooner or later it will have to be repaired, and the manufacturer recommends doing maintenance.

Our masters work both permanently and on the road in Moscow and the Moscow region. If you need a specialist visit to your dacha or any other facility, just call us or leave a request on the website. Be sure to indicate the model of your motor and its breakdown for a more accurate picture of the malfunction. We will arrive within 2 hours and will repair any engine of this brand on your site. We are engaged in single-cylinder and two-cylinder engines, we accept such models as: 450series, 500series, 550series, 575series, 625series, 650series, 675series, 700series, 750series, 800series, 850series, 875series, 950series and any others.

If you want your engine to be repaired as cheaply as possible, bring it to us yourself and the diagnostics will be free. Inspection takes place in the presence of the client, when the engine is handed over for repair, if the malfunction is minor, we will fix it on the spot. Plus, the service center always has the necessary tools, spare parts and consumables. This option of repairing the BRIGGS & STRATTON engine is the most profitable, since our fleet and field technician are not used.

BENZOLIDER LLC is an official dealer center for the repair and maintenance of BRIGGS & STRATTON engines, where each client receives high-quality technical support, and can also directly purchase air and oil filters, spark plugs, spare parts, engines and other original accessories for servicing equipment improving engine protection.

The use of genuine replacement parts is an important guarantee of engine performance as they will ensure that the parts meet engine dimensions, design parameters and quality standards.

Perhaps there is no such engine in the catalog, but we will definitely add it.
Please submit the engine code in the help window (example code is at the bottom of the page).

Colleagues, tell me please - can anyone or who knows where to get a repair manual for a Briggs & Stratton 6.0HP engine
This miracle stands on the Pubert Eco 65 BC2 walk-behind tractor

Not having worked even 100 hours of operation, the miracle began to die safely, already throws oil on the candle with might and main and dies while working
by the way - he began to knock the pistons almost from the very beginning - it makes a rather sonorous knock, as when shifting the piston to TDC / BDC
At the same time, no one raped him especially, he worked in a sparing mode

I'm completely out - I thought the American (engine) would be somehow more reliable

So that there is no desire to believe that I was killing him - my other technique has been working for years without problems, some motors have survived up to 10 years and at least henna
and here - kapets
most likely the marriage was from the factory, but try to find it, find that marriage, if you obviously didn't get out right away

Can someone else tell you where you can buy components for this engine
at least: rings, possibly a piston, valves (most likely, since oil was thrown, then there is probably already a lot of soot)
as an option - a cylinder, if it suddenly becomes badass

Here is the infa from the stickers of the walk-behind tractor:
Pubert Eco 65 BC22 (2011)
205cc
6/0 gross HP
Engine family ABSXS.2051HB 279534

Appreciated in advance for hints

instrumenti2010, Thank you
I'll try to clarify
there would still be to understand which engine is definitely worth
I'll be near the tractor the other day - I'll see what kind of miracle there is again
because I even found the site "B&S Ukraine", but they do not have exactly the same as mine
this is kapets

and probably, most likely, I will first throw off my head, watch how the piston and cylinder feel, and then make a decision on repair
because if you have to change (do not bring, of course) the sleeve, then there is little joyfulness here
there the price will come out like the floor of a new engine
there seems to be a sleeve with a nikasil composition
if there are scratches on the sleeve or a large output, then I will probably look for a way to re-use this sleeve with something cast iron, so that it will be enough for a long time

but generally not happy at all and this technique upsets me
I have never seen anything like this, so that without violence a device (far from the cheapest) dies so quickly

Kiev branch of the company "Dneprokor"
Phone: (044) 501-90-56

Try to call here for a start, maybe Kiev has everything.

well, usually in such motors there is a sleeve-piston
if not, then it will even simplify the task a little
perhaps it will be possible to pick up a cast-iron sleeve and simply plug it on the same Navy

about spare parts yesterday dug up one website, but since it was a weekend - did not call
product_id = 245

and there is no guarantee there for a long time
and it is far from a fact that Dnipro so happily would have recognized the case as a guarantee)
would say that the capacity was ditched by the owner and kapets
this in our country can easily

that I see that it will have to
because sellers cannot add up their price in any way
called back to “briggs stratton ukraine” - despite the fact that they have rings on their website mostly for 180 hryvnias, they began to fill me in that the rings would cost under 1000 hryvnyas
Gosha

despite the fact that for my engine in the car (6 pots) a set of original rings costs 800-900 UAH

I ask - how much will the piston assembly then cost - they also say about a thousand
rave

asked for the cylinder - they can't understand the liner or block there

I came to the conclusion that I will be in the garage - I will look at the number on the block and then I will look for it on Ibei or in the states I will ask my friends to send
because it's nonsense that a piston with rings and a liner should be more expensive than a new engine
business in Ukrainian - "naipi your neighbor"

)))))
it also happens, but the Slavic guy can handle everything
and we read the instructions only after something that was not broken at the initial stage has been seriously broken

but in general, of course, I will most likely take pictures
if I don’t find a repair manual or a video on youtube

Added after 2 minutes
ViktorBucha, please tell me, if the engine is disassembled - is there a liner or a block with a cylinder right away? in principle, it is not scary in any case, most likely it will be possible to overhill even if there is a Nikasil block (though I doubt that there is a Nikasil) and shove a liner there, which is the same in diameter

In general, I figured out what kind of engine is and what for what
prices - ales (because of the greediness and cleverness of the importer)
three rings per piston about UAH 700
the piston is the same
block with cylinder - 60% of the new engine assembly

After a little reflection, I looked for analogues
there are rings from 100 UAH or you can immediately buy a set for 4 cylinders from Seat Ibiza for 170-260 UAH
I'll see what to do with the piston
the cylinder seems to be sharpened, because there is a ring size of +0.020 ″

I can't understand the offices - the capital is more expensive than a new engine
that and what to invent - not much cheaper than a capital engine from a foreign car. I'm a little crazy

I had a similar situation with the compressor, the compressor took B / U so the rings on foreign sites were more expensive than the compressor from the domestic one for a penny.

And to understand the representatives just at the plant they make a series and on the assembly line, and the dealer piece by piece and wants to make money. and the policy of the company is like non-separable drums on washing machines

Well, this is not some kind of China
why let's say piston rings for 6 pots on a Chevrolet cost 800-900 UAH (24 pieces)
and three unfortunate rings (with a myriad of analogs) 650?

the engine block on a Chevrolet stood at 18 thousand hryvnyas naked, although the engine itself was assembled more than 100 thousand

I see that if the engine block for the walk-behind tractor is 3000 UAH, then it is easier to seal it for 400-500 UAH with a sleeve together under the standard size

in general, it will be time in the fall - I will analyze the engine, see what happened to it and draw conclusions, how to recover cheaper with no less reliability

I was looking for spare parts on the Internet and found my own Temko))))

In short, the miracle survived until this spring
Raises, if the oil is poured according to the level - then even strongly.
Today I refilled about the level - so even through the muffler to start throwing.
Then the oil burned out a little and the smoke became less.

rings, and the cylinder ass is 100%
I even found a reason

One foreman (guarantor) said to me “what do you want, what a dry summer it was - through a filter and got dust!”
True, this is not so - the filter is washed and oiled regularly and from the side of the carb it is absolutely clean, which cannot be said about the outside.

So, today, for the sake of fun, I went to the garden to walk a couple of rows to loosen it. Although this is more from boredom, of course.
I drove to the center and stalled. At all. The candle is poured and even though you crack.
I pulled it back, fiddled for a long time - a spark fell on the field, and went somewhere. I called her, he even remembered her mother - the spark did not return

Well, I think, okay, we'll give birth to a new one

took off the coil, cleaned it a little of the rust (it gathered on the working surface during the winter). And at the same time he adjusted it. I cleaned all contacts, ignited the candle and lo and behold! The beast has come to life! And considering also that I did not notice that the carb drive thrust was asleep - then there is generally a kapets - it already began to burst. I was looking for another 10 minutes where it found so much hellish strength in itself.

And at the same time I saw the reason why the drygatel died.
There is a plastic spacer between the carb and the head. Like an extension cord or something. And here in it is a copper, through-hole.
No plug, no nifig. Why is it needed - h.z. Moreover, the hole there provided air suction and of course it was impossible to work with the “Run” damper position. There was a lot of air. But in the middle position, it's easy.
In theory, some kind of tube should go to that fitting, perhaps even from the crankcase. But here's the problem - this is not provided for in this walk-behind tractor, and in fact I had a constant leak of air, and with it - and dust.
The emery was still there

Of course, as a consumer, I don't have to bother looking around and looking for extra holes. One could even try to fight with a representative of the manufacturer, but what will it give - the warranty period has passed 3 years ago, the capacity is dead. And do not care that the reason is the wrong complete set of the engine.

Now I sit, chug turnips again.
Here I just bought a brushcutter instead of a steal one, and also a walk-behind tractor should be restored.
Thought again. He can still disassemble it at his leisure and see the state of the cylinder mirror. Although most likely the block is not sharpened.
Only a sleeve, as I wrote earlier.

In general, of course it's a little offensive.
Because of some kind of crooked bastards on the assembly, the engine ditched, which has been working for others for decades.

Added after 3 minutes
Or maybe his that repair?
Can replace the drygatel with something like that? Sadko GE-200 PRO
And let it jerk further.
True, I have heard little about them, it seems that China is still the same, but on the sites they write that it seems like Slovenia

In any small motor vehicle, the main element is the engine: it is the most expensive, complex and critical unit. And although many companies produce engines, those of them who are developing new models can literally be counted on one hand.

One of the leading manufacturers of small engines is the American company Briggs & Stratton with more than a century of history, many of its own developments and a huge range of models and modifications that are constantly being modernized and updated.Analysts estimate that Briggs & Stratton products account for about half of the global small engine market. One of the new products for 2016 is the Briggs & Stratton EXi series. The equipment with these engines is guaranteed to be in demand by users: ease of start-up and operation is combined here with extreme ease of maintenance.

Briggs & Stratton 650EXi-Series | 675EXi-Series
Gasoline engines for garden and power equipment

A TYPE: petrol 1-cylinder 4-stroke air-cooled overhead valve (OHV) vertical crankshaft
WORKING VOLUME: 163 cm³
CYLINDER DIAMETER / PISTON STROKE: 68.3 / 44.5 mm
TORQUE (max; 2600 rpm): 9.15 | 9.8 N * m
IGNITION: transistor-magnetic
STARTING: traction cable
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 1,0 l
OIL CAPACITY: 0.47 l
FUEL CONSUMPTION (2600 rpm): at full load 1.35 | 1.42 l / h; at a load of 50% - 0.85 | 0.93 l / h
DIMENSIONS: 349х314х253 mm
WEIGHT: 8.5KG

Briggs & Stratton EXi Series engines are currently offered in two flavors. The number in the title indicates the value of the maximum torque (divide by 100 and we get the desired one, the unit is “pounds per foot”).

Externally, the engines differ only in the upper covers, and even those are interchangeable. Strictly speaking, the difference is in the carburetor settings. This "policy" is also typical of many Briggs & Stratton engines. It is easier for the user to choose the best option for himself, and the range of spare parts and "consumables" hardly increases.

Motors of this size, with a vertical shaft, are used primarily on lawn mowers. Briggs & Stratton recommends installing these two varieties on mowers up to 1000 m². Some of the "vertical" engines are also installed on motor-cultivators, a small amount - on more rare equipment such as power generators and high-pressure washers.

If we talk about lawn mowers and cultivators, then this technique, firstly, is seasonal, and secondly, it is rarely used during the season. When developing consumer-grade engines at Briggs & Stratton, the calculated MTBF (to first failure requiring the intervention of a qualified technician) is at least 500 hours. This is a very high figure. Even a thousand square meters with a lawn mower can be processed in two or three hours, and this is taking into account the frequent turns. In the middle lane, lawn mowing is rarely carried out more than a dozen times a year. It turns out that it will take at least 20 years to "select the motor resource" of an engine. During this time, any equipment will become obsolete, most likely, they will not be repaired - they will just buy a new one. For cultivators, the "annual mileage" is even lower - usually the soil is plowed once or twice a year. On engines of the new series, carburetors with a modified body and a shut-off needle are installed. They are adapted to work on uneven terrain: they provide a more uniform flow of the fuel mixture in difficult operating conditions - with constant movement, inclines and shaking.

CHOOSE YOU NEED

The most important consumer qualities for engines are ease of starting and ease of maintenance. A number of other parameters are also taken into account: noise and vibration during operation, failure rate and maintainability, weight, fuel consumption and, of course, the cost of both the engine itself and its maintenance. There is also such a parameter as environmental friendliness: a "dirtier" engine, all other things being equal, will develop less power (and torque) compared to a "clean" one. Almost all of these qualities are interconnected in one way or another. As a result, any user is required to choose the option that is optimal for him. This is exactly what the new Briggs & Stratton EXiSeries engines will be for many. And to show this, it is enough to list the engineering solutions used in them.

PECULIARITIES

They can be divided into those that are used in other series of Briggs & Stratton engines, and the one that made it possible to separate the new items into a separate series.

Design. Engines belong to the overhead valve (OHV), that is, those that are now most often found in small motor vehicles. There are other designs, in particular Briggs & Stratton produces similar series of side-valve engines (L-head, or L-head), as well as direct-actuated valves (DOV, patented by Briggs & Stratton). DOV engines are put on professional-level equipment, they are redundant for "home" use, but it is quite possible to compare the new series with L-head motors - Briggs & Stratton has series designed for the "private trader".

The advantages of L-head engines are technical simplicity, low cost, undemanding to the quality of fuel and oil. Previously, they were quite popular (Briggs & Stratton alone produced more than 150 million units over several decades). But now L-head engines are gradually being replaced by more modern OHVs. Quite simply, we're looking at the Briggs & Stratton EXiSeries engines with 6.5 and 6.75 lb-ft of torque and 163 cc displacement. L-head engines of similar "torque" have a cylinder volume of 190 cm³. And this means that the dimensions, weight, and fuel consumption, and at the same time the volume of required lubrication in the crankcase and the noise level of the OHV are much lower.

Ease of launch. It is provided by the ReadyStart system, which automatically doses the ratio of air to fuel entering the carburetor and eliminates the need to manipulate the air damper and primer at startup. These elements are absent on engines with the ReadyStart system; instead, a thermostat is attached to the muffler, which is connected to the air damper through a linkage system. Depending on the temperature of the muffler, the flap position is automatically adjusted. Briggs & Stratton guarantees that ReadyStart engines will start with no more than a second jerk of the starter. This technology is now used in most of the new Briggs & Stratton engine series.

Quiet work. The engines are equipped with special Super LoTone mufflers. They not only provide a low noise level, but also "remove" from it the high-frequency component, which causes the greatest inconvenience during operation.