Details: eberspacher DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Sometimes, the driver begins to worry about why the hydronic does not start - the reasons. Do-it-yourself hydronic repair is quite real, and therefore you should not worry at all. The cost of installing such a device is quite high, and therefore if you also have to pay for the repair work, you can generally “go into negative territory”. As a rule, problems begin at a time when cold weather comes, because it is then that the hydronic is necessary for normal movement. If the device has not been used before, it is clear that problems cannot be detected. It is also worth considering the fact that the device was produced by a well-known German company, which guarantees the high quality of its own products. Do not forget that the heater is a rather complex system. As you know, the more complex the structure, the more likely it may fail.
Hydronic does not start - reasons. Do-it-yourself hydronic repair - this will be the topic of this article. If the owner of the vehicle has a lot of money, then you can go to specialists. If you have a warranty for the heater, you shouldn't even think about it, you need to go straight to the service station. With a warranty, self-repair will cause it to disappear. When the warranty has already expired, why not try to find out what the problem is on your own and, if possible, fix it.
If a person still wants to perform the initial diagnostics with his own hands, but there is no special equipment available, you just need to take into account the most common factors that affect the start of the heating device.
- The first case: the driver presses a button, but absolutely nothing happens. Most likely, the contact in the circuit opened due to oxidation of the terminal or due to broken wiring.
- There is a reaction to the button, but it is so weak that the heater is simply unable to fulfill its basic duties. In such a case, the battery is probably dead.
- Several times the hydronic tries to start working, but nothing happens. This is possible due to the lack of fuel supply.
- The heater starts working, but almost immediately after starting it turns off. Air has appeared in the cooling system, and therefore the unit overheats and automatically shuts down. This often happens after the vehicle has not been used for a long time.
- Another popular reason is the use of poor quality antifreeze. You need to look into the expansion tank. If it contains not antifreeze, but a mixture that looks more like jelly, be sure to replace it.
Video (click to play). |
Even if a person is firmly convinced that he will go to a car service, he will still have to do some work. These include:
- Battery check in progress. If necessary, it should be recharged. Also check the spark plugs and replace them if necessary.
- Diagnostics of the state of the main electrical components.
- Check the level of fuel in the tank and antifreeze.
- Checking the exhaust system.
With the reason that there is no ignition, a modular timer will help you figure it out. It stores error codes in memory. It will not be difficult to view them:
- A button is clamped on the working heater, which turns it on.
- How it starts to work - the key on which the clock is depicted is clamped.
- Behind her, press the P button and hold it for a couple of seconds.
- An error code will be displayed.
To scroll through errors, you must click on the arrow button. After reading the article, it became clear why the hydronic does not start, the reasons. Do-it-yourself hydronic repair is possible if you have certain skills and desire. If a person really understands, he can get into the device itself, but in general it is not recommended to do this.
Prestarting heaters HYDRONIC (Hydronic)from Eberspacher are the most expensive of their brothers - devices manufactured Webasto, Chinese Belief, Russian binar.The reason for the increased cost, according to the manufacturer, is the use of a different heater burner device and the use of a two-phase fuel combustion scheme, requiring the introduction of more complex production technologies. This contributes to less carbon formation on the parts and, as a result, greater reliability of the device.
But, nevertheless, heater breakdowns are inevitable. Let's consider the reasons due to which the Hydronic, which has already been used for some time, does not start. First of all, we will inspect the diagnostic and troubleshooting options, if at the time of Hydronic failure you do not have information about the device's fault codes, and the Internet is for some reason unavailable.
Heater circuit Hydronic
Reasons for heater failure:
The Hydronic heater is a complex technical product, so its malfunctions and breakdowns are inevitable.
- broken wiring, oxidation of the connecting terminals in the electrical circuit of the device;
- a weak response to the power button indicates insufficient battery charging;
- the control unit has blocked the heater due to exceeding the minimum or maximum threshold values of the supply circuit voltage;
- breakdown of the control unit, sensors and other parts of the device.
Heater diagnostics Hydronic
- the formation of air jams in the cooling system, as a result of which the temperature sensors of the device overheat, and the control unit turns off the fuel supply;
- low quality coolant;
- interruption of the fuel supply to the heater burner. In addition to the violation (clogging) of the fuel line and the breakdown of the metering pump, this can be caused by poor fuel quality and excessive contamination of the fuel tank. Diesel Hydronic does not start in frost due to gelation in diesel fuel, therefore, it is recommended to install fuel heating.
Excessive smoke in the exhaust in combination with stoppages in the heater operation is caused by excessive coking of the combustion chamber and exhaust pipe. It is eliminated by cleaning from carbon deposits.
If the pre-heater does not start, and the display of its modular timer writes “Error”, then, having independently identified the malfunction and eliminating it, you can diagnose the device. It is better to check the heater and remove errors and their faults in a preventive manner.
Heater error codes and a short description of the malfunction:
It is possible to diagnose all elements of the Hydronic heater only during its operation.
- 011, 012 — voltage thresholds exceeded.It is most often caused by battery discharge, generator breakdown, broken wiring, oxidation of contacts;
- 012, 014 - overheating or the possibility of overheating. Disruption of coolant circulation, leakage, air locks. Breakdown of the circulation pump, temperature sensors;
- 015 - controller blocking due to overheating. The reasons are the same as for errors 012 and 014. It is necessary to remove the error;
- 017 - emergency shutdown caused by overheating. The reasons are stated above;
- 020, 021 - spark plug malfunction;
- 030, 031, 032, 038, 039 - the air intake fan speed has changed. The main reasons are increased resistance to rotation due to pollution, open circuit of the fan power supply, short circuit of wiring, oxidation of contacts;
- 041, 042 - malfunctions associated with the circulation pump and its power supply;
- 047, 048 - breakdowns in the fuel supply system associated with the metering pump;
- 050 - blocking of the control unit due to unsuccessful starts. It is necessary to remove the error after troubleshooting;
- 051, 052 - exceeding the permissible time. Breakdowns associated with the flame sensor, the operation of the metering pump, the supply of air to the combustion chamber;
If other error codes are displayed, then it is best to contact a specialist, since special tests will be required on professional diagnostic equipment. Repairing Hydronic "brains" is an occupation for professionals in electronics, semiconductors can fail even from the slightest discharge of static electricity caused by touch.
Modular timer Hydronic
If you decide to repair and start Hydronic with your own hands, then start with the simplest.
Firstly, evaluate the reaction of the heater to the start command. A complete lack of reaction indicates a wiring violation or blocking of the control unit, as well as a discharge of the battery. If the pre-heater supply voltage for 20 seconds was below the minimum threshold value of 10.2 V, then the controller is locked. If there are no measuring instruments, the state of charge of the battery can be assessed by the operation of the sound signal, the light of the headlights when they are switched on for a short time, etc.
Carefully inspect all electrical connectors belonging to the Hydronic circuit. A break in the wiring could occur due to excessive oxidation of the contacts, which is checked by twitching the connections for a break.
One of the reasons for heater failure is antifreeze leakage. Check its level in the system and visually assess the quality of the coolant.
With a simple probe (lamp + wire), check if voltage is supplied to the pump, metering pump, ignition system.
Evaluate how freely air flows into the combustion chamber and the exhaust gases are removed from it. The intake and exhaust pipes clogged with dirt, ice, snow can be the reason that the Hydronic auxiliary heater does not start.
Air locks in the cooling system can be caused by a malfunctioning valve in the expansion tank cap (or radiator neck). But this can be installed only by removing the cover in advance. If the subsequent start-up is successful, replace the cover.
If you have found that the malfunction lies in a faulty part (assembly) of the heater, then the repair will be reduced to replacing the latter. Therefore, if the warranty period of the heater has not expired, but it was installed, as they say, by "officials", then the possible delivery of the car by a tow truck to the workshop will justify itself - the prices for spare parts for HYDRONIC are considerable.
For trouble-free operation of the device in the future, read the factory installation and operation manual for Hydronic. Most likely, a careful study of the factory requirements and recommendations will point you to mistakes made out of ignorance.
Message fedoss "23:34, 25 Mar 2012
Message soldat »00:16, 26 Mar 2012
Message Vasechkin trance »00:44, 26 Mar 2012
Message soldat »20:06, 26 Mar 2012
so guys, the hypopea is over, by replacing the combustion chamber, the issue price is almost 10 rubles
because
the officials said that a stone would form in it, but the thing is not collapsible, then there is only one way out, a replacement, I wanted to cut the old camera in order to bubble it up and how, but the chef decided to burn it with a gas cutter, it did not work the first time, but on the second time slag fell from her, they heated the crap inside the glass with slots, thank you guys all, and especially fedosu
Message obedanet "14:39, 07 Apr 2012
Message Kolyan "17:23, 08 Apr 2012
Message soldat "00:37, 11 Apr 2012
Message Sergey78 »10:12, 12 Apr 2012
Message Bespectacled »10:28, 12 Apr 2012
The toad choked me to buy a duyka for a very long time, until I found out about Planar. I have worked for six years now, it is cool here not only in winter. Rearranged it from the previous car. I have never looked into it. Occasionally it refuses to start (it lights up from the second poke) and makes a terrible noise. I want to change this summer for a new, 44th, they are quieter.
Before, there was an opinion that German duiks were indestructible, but it turns out, no. And after all, the difference in price with Samara hoo! Maybe sometimes it is worth supporting a domestic manufacturer?
You may be unpleasantly amazed, lost in conjecture, why the hydronic does not start, and the methods of repairing this device will also start to bother you a lot. So, you have installed a pre-heater on your car, a device that is not cheap anyway. Most likely, it was not installed for you for free - but that's not so bad.The most important thing is that problems are revealed already with the onset of cold weather, when the hydronic is needed for normal driving. It is unlikely that you will discover the whims of the heater before, because you did not need it so much in terms of heat.
We do not think that the problems will begin soon after installation: this equipment is produced by the German company "Eberspächer", and these guys are responsible for the fruits of their labor. But do not forget that the heater is a complex system, and the more intricate the design, the more of its components a breakdown may threaten.
Why Hydronic does not start and how to repair the device, the most reliable and fastest way will be determined by specialists. If you still have him under warranty, it is better to immediately go to them - amateur performance will instantly liquidate their obligations towards you. If the warranty has expired, you can try to find out where the trouble happened: some of them are available for elimination on their own.
If you decide to carry out the initial diagnostics on your own, and you do not have specialized equipment, take into account the most probable factors that prevent the heater from starting.
- Case one: you press a button and find a complete lack of response. Most likely, somewhere in the circuit, a contact is open, either due to oxidation of the terminal, or due to broken wiring;
- A weak reaction to the button is observed, but so insignificant that the heater is not able to provide ignition. Diagnosis: either the battery is hung up or is too low-power;
- Hydronic tries twice to start, but ignition fails. Most often this happens due to the lack of fuel supply;
- The heater seems to start, but it turns off almost immediately. The cooling system is airing, so that overheating and emergency cutting off of the unit occurs. This is very often observed after a long absence of machine operation (at least 2 weeks. See the article “We start the car after a long downtime”);
- The second most common reason is poor-quality antifreeze in the cooling circuit. Look into the distribution tank: if there is something jelly-like instead of liquid, the antifreeze needs to be changed;
Fri, 2009-12-11 16:01 - Bronislavovich
On the Vito 108 CDI, a very useful heater mechanism has failed. An autopsy revealed that the bearing cage had collapsed. Blower rotor skewed and jammed. The domestic bearing corresponding to the bourgeois in size is marked 80024 (size f4; f13; 5). Found, acquired, delivered. does not work.I have attached a modular timer to my system from another Shecherov stove (with diagnostic function) - writes error No. 30, “the engine shaft revolutions are outside the established limits”. I understand that he hardly sees the revolutions themselves, rather the increased current is not pleasant. After consulting with specialists repairing heaters, I found out that it is almost impossible to run such devices on our bearings, and if it works out, the happiness turns out to be short-lived. So it didn't work out for me either. I tried to replace CIATIM in bearings with Starfak No. 2 (it works great in high-speed spindles at 35,000-40,000 rpm) - only the cages rattle louder than steel. Separately, there are no motors on sale, a supercharger is on sale, but it's better not to go to Exist for it: they ask for 20 tyrs.
Gentlemen, does anyone have a positive experience of repairing such a useful device, or solve the problem by installing a "potbelly stove" in the interior of a bourgeois car?
buddy for more details, you can rework.
Tue, 2009-12-15 22:36 - Bronislavovich
To expand the functionality, you need to purchase additional. equipment. The easiest way is to go to dealers. You can equip the system with a mini-timer or modular clock (these are in some Vito trim levels above the rear-view mirror, I found this, No. 22 1000 30 33 00 or 22 1000 30 34 00). The functions of the modular clock are expanded by connecting a receiver to them (controlled by the key fob No. 22 1000 32 01 00 or I don’t know the GPS code, 25-27 tyrov is worth remembering). Nice function of the watch - DIAGNOSTICS of malfunctions and the ability to unlock. Now I sit at home on the carpet in front of the TV and use this function with might and main: I try to "persuade" the bourgeois to work on other bearings - it does not start.
Option for autonomous launch in conditions of collective farms, state farms and other non-specialized farms:
No. 4 - “+” of the fuel pump (heater!).
No. 5 - diagnostic line (for the watch, who has contact No. 8).
When severe frosts hit in winter, the question already arises not only about heating the cab or the passenger compartment of the bus, but a pre-heater for the car engine is already needed here. These tasks are perfectly handled by Eberspacher autonomous heaters, which provide not only comfortable conditions for passengers, but also help drivers to start their cars engines without any problems.
Autonomous heater Eberspächer
In a harsh winter, heating the passenger compartment and preheating the engine are quite relevant
- An autonomous heater of the Eberspacher type will be able to provide heating not only for the cab of a truck or a car, but also for the interior of a bus, and he will cope with this in just half an hour. Such units are installed when the engine cannot cope with heating the cabin with its generated heat and they are very popular in the regions of the Far North. But, in addition to the car interior, the engine itself freezes, which sometimes simply cannot be started in severe frost, and so, here, Eberspächer will also help you as a pre-heater.
Autonomous heater - an indispensable thing for harsh winters
- Autonomous car heating is practically indispensable for those drivers who spend a long time on the road and spend the night in the car. For example, the same truckers, in order not to start the engine to heat the cab in the parking lot at night, can use heaters such as Eberspächer, and even their relatively high price will not outweigh the advantages that a car gets when installing it.
- Imagine that it is minus 30⁰ C outside - in what period of time will the cabin of the same KamAZ cool down when the engine is stopped? Probably no more than 10-15 minutes, and if you just need to sleep overnight, will you constantly warm up the car or not turn it off at all? Here is not only the question of the engine noise, but also the huge excessive consumption of fuel, which will be spent on heating.
- An autonomous heater will not only save you from unnecessary noise in the cabin and unnecessary excessive consumption of fuel, but will also ensure a stable temperature in the cabin and prevent the glass from freezing. You will be able to calmly go to sleep for the whole night, and at the same time the temperature you set will be maintained, moreover, all this will happen with minimal fuel consumption.
- Do-it-yourself installation of autonomous heaters on cars is no less relevant. Even if you do not have to spend the night in them, imagine how much time you spend on warming up the engine and cleaning the glass from frozen snow and frost! The same Eberspacher will be able to do this work for you while you wash or have breakfast.
- Now let's look at the situation from an economic point of view - let's say you paid $ 450 for an autonomous heater. The driver, using this device, constantly remains in good shape and at the same time does not waste extra fuel to heat the car during all stops, loads and unloads. Now imagine a sick driver who is unable to go to work for a week - the benefits are obvious, because by paying once, you are reinsured against unforeseen circumstances.
Eberspacher Airtronic B4 - air heater
Eberspacher Airtronic B5 - air heater
Eberspacher Airtronic D2 - air heater
Eberspacher Airtronic D4 - air heater
Eberspacher Airtronic D5 - air heater
Eberspacher Airtronic D81C - air heater
Modification table of Eberspacher Airtronic autonomous heaters
- As can be seen from the table with the photo above, heaters of the Eberspacher Airtronic type can be installed on vehicles with both diesel and carburetor engines. In addition, depending on the size of the cabin, you can choose the unit you need, not only by the type of fuel, but also by the power that will provide the required performance.
Sectional view of the Eberspacher Airtronic heater
- In the event of any malfunctions in the autonomous heating, which, by the way, happens extremely rarely, you can always contact any of the service centers, which are sufficient in our country. Such workshops most often specialize in Eberspacher Airtronic and Webasto, have the necessary spare parts and carry out the work in the shortest possible time due to the competitiveness of other craftsmen.
Advice. When choosing a workshop or service center for repairing an autonomous car heater, ask if they have the ability to diagnose the unit.
This will allow you to prevent any malfunctions and breakdowns that may await you along the way.
- At the moment, the overwhelming majority of drivers for some reason believe that it is much more profitable to do repairs on their own, without resorting to the help of specialized centers. In addition, the necessary spare parts are most often purchased at car dismantling, used.
- Drivers who act in this way forget that they do not have the ability to accurately diagnose the problem and the replacement of a particular part may become just a temporary reprieve of a serious problem. A person who walks this way is like a sick person who is sick with the flu; he does not go to the doctor, but buys a handkerchief. After all, thanks to diagnostics, you can avoid serious problems with the equipment, not only replacing the part, but also finding out the cause of its failure.
Autonomous heater diagnostics
- Where autonomous heaters Eberspacher Airtronic and Webasto are being repaired, for about $ 10 you can find out about the previous service life of the device, as well as find out the duration of the future resource. The fact is that computer diagnostics allows you to determine the degree of wear of certain parts and, in order to avoid serious damage on the way, you can immediately replace the weak link of the device. You will also be able to determine the level of the heater's performance at a given time in order to have an idea of its capabilities. (See also the article Installing the towbar: how to do it.)
Advice.Despite the seeming simplicity of the device, this is a fairly accurate device and any intervention in its functioning by an unprepared person will entail certain consequences that may appear not immediately, but after a while.
The fact is that the instructions for the repair of such equipment provide clear standards for setting up mechanisms and stringent requirements for the replacement of parts.
Only computer diagnostics can properly maintain such parameters, and only a specialist who has undergone special training should do this.
Heater functioning zones
- In addition, any self-respecting service center will be able to give you the necessary free consultation so that you can find a way for the optimal solution to the problem. For example, situations are possible when the repair of the heater does not make sense due to the full depletion of its operational resource, in which case you may be advised to purchase a new device so as not to spend money on short-term repairs. Or you may be advised against restoring the old unit, because it will take the same amount of money as the cost of a new unit.
- The heater itself contains such expensive parts as a boiler, a control unit and a fan, and the failure of any of the above spare parts will be very expensive, so it is easier to decide on a new purchase. Eberspacher Airtronic is a German-made device and there is such a thing as boiler homologation, which must be done every 10 years - otherwise its operation is prohibited. But if such a unit has served in Germany for 7 years, then they no longer even think about its restoration. (See also Car Wiring Corrugation: Features.)
- The service centers will be able to provide you with the following services:
- Diagnose the autonomous heater at a special stand;
- Repair the burner;
- Repair the boiler;
- Repair or restore control units;
- Repair the turbine (air compressors);
- Install a 12-24V voltage converter;
- Install the fuel tank;
- Rewind the electric turbine armature.
From this publication, you have seen the many advantages of using the Eberspacher Airtronic autonomous heater, and you have probably already watched a video clip on this topic. Indeed, purchasing such a device for heating a car, you automatically get rid of many problems and save time. It is also important to have workshops (including warranty workshops) on the territory of the Russian Federation.
Don't forget to like the video! 🙂 And we will record another video for you 😉
thanks, thanks to your video, he took apart the stove and cleaned everything, though it was almost new, I didn't have any soot at all, and the bitch does not start the first time stably, did that happen? error codes Easy start timer recorded 52,62,57 for the entire time as I understand it. By the way, do not tell me how the errors turned around.
Good day. Help me figure out a similar unit. The question is: there is a fuel truck on a KAMAZ-Mercedes, it runs on a muffled engine, I start the engine - the work stops. What can be done to keep the engine running? There is infa that is turned off specifically for fuel trucks on running engines, but when it is -40-50, it’s sad without a hairdryer. What can be done? service for kamaz threw up his hands)) can I turn off which wiring?))
Instruction in the car for Eberspacher D2, Polish for 2.2 kW. Itself rang out the connector on the heater itself, there was a wiring there, as I understand it, control. The color is blue with black. The chip is three-row already, and I did not find such a pinout.
The engine is turned off, there is silence on it, you start the engine, a spill appears and the heater stops. Cars manufactured in 16. If this wire is excluded from the circuit? I turned it off, everything works, but can't this wiring be multifunctional, some tricky one, and in addition to one function, something else important for the heater's operation can be hooked on it?Similar, but at least you need to know the exact name of this heater, and it is advisable for you to contact a repair shop for autonomous heaters on a car, perhaps you need to redo something in the car's wiring.
I would change the deformed sleeve in the burner, and, accordingly, the evaporator in the burner itself. Well, and a grid of candles.
Later we changed the complete burner all the same 🙂
From four to seven thousand they take for replacing the bearing, they take it, maybe there is some trick there
They bring for repair wet Ebershpecher hydronic autonomous units, Airtronic dry heaters, engine heaters, repair.
Business as usual in the hole. The video shows the third and fourth launch attempts. the first two were also successful.
The Eberspächer plant is located in West Germany and its products are characterized by high reliability and quality. However, "Hydronic" refers to complex technical devices, moreover, their performance depends on the correct installation. Therefore, malfunctions "Gidronikov”Can happen.
These failures can be subdivided:
-with test launches;
- operational failures;
- parts malfunction.When starting Hydronic for the first time after installation on a vehicle, it is necessary to assume that the new heater is always in good working order. If, nevertheless, the heater does not start, check the installation carefully. The presence of diagnostic equipment will facilitate troubleshooting. However, you can navigate by external signs.
Internal malfunctions of "Hydronic" are more difficult to diagnose and you cannot do without special equipment. But they don't happen often. And if all the points outlined in the first sections are verified, then it will be necessary to shoot “Hydronic”From the car and send it to the technical center for repair.
Do not forget to plug off the “Hydronic” fuel pipe and loop the “antifreeze” hoses.
Possibly bad antifreeze. The pump cannot pump, the hydronic is cut off due to overheating.
It happened to me once. I don’t remember if the pump and the flame were turned off at the same time, but in time just after 1-2 minutes. And not even at -20, but at -15. Antifreeze replacement helped.It was the same. Directed a stream of warm air from the hair dryer to the metering pump, the hydronic starts to work. I don’t know why this is so.
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The creation of this topic pursues one, but very important idea - to try to repair control units on your own, because the difference in the cost of a new unit (15 thousand rubles) and p / parts (10 - 1000 rubles) is incommensurable, so it makes sense to do it.
I suggest everyone who is interested to post the redrawn schemes (in whole or in part) in the topic. And the experience of repair, if possible, then maybe we will overcome this problem.
Specifically, I am currently interested in the Hydronic B5 WS control unitp. s.
Please do not repeat the materials about the opening of the sealant, etc., discussed earlier.Hey!
Today I disassembled the electric motor again, found the cause of the wedging, in general I found out 2 points:
Firstly: it turns out that the armature and its contacts move along the shaft, I did not take this into account when I stuffed the bearings. Although this is neat, due to the beating, the anchor moved and began to wedge with contacts in the counting unit. Put it in place - everything is stall like a needle.
And secondly, everyone will probably be interested:... replacing ordinary magnets in the case - changes the polarity and direction of rotation.
This knowledge did not cost me a bedroom impeller.
Well, I could not even think that the pidantic Germans made grooves everywhere, there was no way you could assemble it in another way, but the usual two halves of the magnets were not even marked with paint.- polial:
- A topic for repairing brains, not body kit. Either find a suitable fan theme or create your own. Warning.
There is a lot you could have avoided by reading the threads in the forum, some, like you, have gone through it with their mistakes.
And therefore the question is about the brains.
I have an assumption that perhaps there was a problem of sudden stop and the brain had nothing to do with it. But maybe due to the wedging of the motor, the ground contact on the board burned out.
Once I heard an advice - to check this, move the contact of the mass of the electric motor to the place for the contact of the mass of the electric pump.
I do not have a D5wz electric pump (it costs separately)
But BU with the compact model are the same, as I understand it. And probably there is a leg of the mass under the pump? What is the question, number 13?Video (click to play). This is an oval connector.
Or 11 pins?