Electric power steering Volkswagen Turan DIY repair

In detail: electric power steering Volkswagen Turan DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

As a rule, when a malfunction occurs with the electric amplifier, a special yellow light comes on on the instrument panel. But this does not mean that driving further is prohibited. No, this is just a sign that the EUR is out of order and the errors need to be corrected, but first, you need to turn off the fuse so that the electric amplifier does not work at high speeds. But, in order to independently determine and repair an electric amplifier, you need to know what the main symptoms and malfunctions of this mechanism are.

So, we will consider the main symptoms and malfunctions in the event of which the operation of the power steering worsens and, as a rule, a special lamp should light up to inform you about this.

The voltage in the network decreased and became below the permissible value;
There is no signal from the speed sensor;
The engine speed has increased.

Some of these reasons lie in a malfunctioning sensor system or in the cables that carry signals.

But, the problem may lie not only in additional elements, but also in the steering amplifier itself. There are cases when, at the moment the ignition is turned on, a certain failure may occur in the amplifier system, in which case it also turns off.

Very often, the cause of the amplifier shutdown can be a breakdown or temporary failure of the speed sensor.

This element of the system serves as a transmitter of information to the EUR about the vehicle speed, so that the system calculates the torque on the steering wheel. It changes relative to the speed of movement: at low speed, the effort is maximum, and with its increase, the effort is minimized. Therefore, if the sensor for determining the speed of the vehicle is out of order, then incorrect information is sent to the controlled part of the amplifier and it turns off.

Video (click to play).

Repair of the electric power steering is carried out depending on what exactly is out of order. If the amplifier itself breaks down, then this is not such a serious problem, since the vehicle can be driven without it. But, for example, if the control unit of this mechanism "flies", then such a problem is already quite serious. To carry out the repair, it is necessary to dismantle it from the car. To do this, you need to remove the steering wheel to gain access to the control unit.

After that, you need to remove the decorative plastic strip. Removing the plate, you can see our block. Before disconnecting it from the system, it is advisable to disconnect the battery. Next, unscrew all the mounting bolts and disconnect the device.

Now you can check how worn out it is, whether it is possible to fix it, or only replacing it with a new one will save it. As a rule, to find out the breakdown, you need to remove the steering wheel and the EUR. This way we have a better chance of troubleshooting.

To prolong the life of the car's electric power steering, it is recommended to use it correctly.

Care should be taken to avoid any mechanical or physical impact on the amplifier or on its relay. If it so happened that this mechanism fell out of your hands (at the time of installation), it must be checked for damage, and if such are present on any parts, then they must be replaced.
It is not recommended to expose the electronic devices of the system to humidity or high temperatures.
It is forbidden to touch the contacts on the connectors, as this can lead to their deformation.
After the control unit has been replaced with a new one, it is necessary to carry out adjustment (calibration).This is necessary in order to set the zero point of the sensor indicating the speed of the car.
It is also recommended to avoid any mechanical or physical tampering with the steering column assembly.

Compliance with all the rules will allow you to maintain the performance of your EUR and the entire steering system, which means that it will be as easy and comfortable to steer as before.

Watch this video and find out what an electric power steering (EUR) is, as well as what its pros and cons.

VW Touran 2005, the electric power steering does not work, the red lamp is on. VAG-COM gives an error - 00003 control module. Tell me, are they being repaired or not? How is he filmed? He unscrewed four long bolts securing the motor to the rail, it moves a little but cannot be removed, no matter how something else holds it. Maybe you need to remove the rail? Or do you need to apply force? I'm afraid that something would not be torn off.

similarly. caddy 2.0 2004 bdj. error 0003 "control unit defect detected." as a constant. foolishly removed the electric amplifier. I painted everything alive. The only thing is that the burned-out terminals of the pump (external power). the error is read in the power amplifier unit and the instrument panel. when the amplifier unit is turned off, the instrument panel is not demolished + " communication with the power steering control unit is broken ”. in the manual (KTS-esitronic) on this topic = 0 may mean not the amplifier unit, but the so-called. “The steering amplifier control unit (the translators have tried) in the steering column switching unit. Moreover, the signal processing from the turn sensor takes place in it? And if we consider that it also has a communicator, then against the background of a Chinese device, everything seems to fit .only, the block itself is a bastard, not a single mistake! Understand correctly, changing the rail for one and a half pieces and then scratching turnips is somehow undignified.
on this topic:
-the angle of rotation was, but clumsy, after an attempt to calibrate it is absent (requires to demolish the error)
- the rate of change of the steering angle is there.
If you need more data, I'll post it.
I swear to report the result.

Tell me, Touran, 1.9 TDI, 2003.
The electric power steering is switched off from time to time. He writes, there is no connection.
Wiring ok, fuses and relays too. AB is new.
Trains - a little and turns off, after 2-3 days you can move normally, then the same glitch.
Oddly enough, there are no errors.

There was such a car recently. An error on the amplifier, channel bus, periodically did not start. The problem was in the "green" inside the control unit. The amplifier can be removed simply: 4 long bolts and remove with force. the adapter from the motor to the gearbox itself is a rubber coupling. It is difficult to open the block: you need to saw off along the edge and remove. The upper part with contacts is removed, they go into the grooves there. I didn't know, so I sawed the lid piece by piece. The problem was just in the connections between the block tab and the top cover. I cleaned out the greens and soldered the connections. greens will not get on the board, there is gel.

no greenery, no dangling ends inside. In short, he sent the owner for a rail on the meal. Though there will be a chance to zakosit on a used river.

[QUOTE = 100nikolas; 916651] There was such a machine recently. An error on the amplifier, channel bus, periodically did not start. [/ QUOTE
————————-
communication from the steering switch to the rack amplifier on a common bus with a signal from the immo frame.

the client looked out of sight and there was nothing to report on the result.

The information provided here applies to the following vehicles:

Volkswagen Passat B6 / Volkswagen Passat B6 (3C2, 3C5)
Volkswagen Golf 5 (1K1, 1K5)
Volkswagen Jetta 5 / Volkswagen Jetta 5 (1K2) 2005 - 2010
Volkswagen Tiguan (5N1)
Volkswagen Touran / Volkswagen Turan (1T1, 1T2)
Volkswagen Golf Plus (5M1) 2005 - 2009
Volkswagen Caddy 2 / Volkswagen Caddy 2 (2KA, 2KB, 2KH, 2KJ)
Volkswagen Eos (1F7) 2006 - 2011
Volkswagen Scirocco (137) 2008 - 2014

Skoda Octavia A5 / Skoda Octavia A5 (1Z3, 1Z5)
Skoda Octavia 2 Russia / Skoda Octavia 2 Russia (933) 2010 - 2013
Skoda Yeti / Skoda Yeti (5L7) 2010 - 2015
Skoda Yeti Russia / Skoda Yeti Russia (676, 677) 2010 - 2015

Audi A3 / Audi A3 (8P1, 8PA, 8P7)
Audi Q3 / Audi Q3 (8UB, 8UG) 2012 -
Audi TT / Audi TT (8J3, 8J9) 2007 - 2014

SEAT Leon Mk2 / Seat Leon 2 (1P1) 2006 - 2013
SEAT Toledo Mk3 / Seat Toledo 3 (5P2) 2005 - 2010
SEAT Altea (5P1) 2004 - 2015
SEAT Altea XL / Seat Altea XL (5P5) 2007 - 2015
SEAT Ibiza Mk4 / Seat Ibiza 4 (6J5) 2008 - 2015
SEAT Ibiza Mk4 SC (3d) / Seat Ibiza 4 (3 doors) (6J1) 2009 - 2015
SEAT Ibiza ST / Seat Ibiza ST (6J8) 2010 - 2015

A long-known problem with the 1st and 2nd generation ESDs produced until about 2007 is the intermittent appearance of a torque sensor error G269.
It is located in the rail on the axis, where the steering wheel cardan is inserted.

This is followed by a record of the error number:

00573 - steering torque sensor G269
008 - invalid signal - inconstant.

The moment the error occurs is signaled by a yellow steering wheel, no functional is disturbed, the steering wheel still rotates normally.
Of the minuses, when the sensor is not working, it is impossible to carry out the basic settings of both the steering wheel and the ABS.

Sometimes the error disappears after removing the ignition key, and sometimes it hangs until you throw it off with a cord.

It occurs spontaneously, more often in cold weather and / or active steering.

The officials fix the problem by replacing the steering rack assembly, which costs 1500-2000 euros with work.
Moreover, the rails of the II generation are no longer produced, therefore, III is installed with the replacement of the wiring.

We will try to restore the rail if possible, and if this does not work out, then you can simply replace the sensor separately.

I will describe in words how to dismantle the rail. I did not take pictures.
Perhaps a colleague will add a dismantling report below.
If you know what and how to twist, then dismantling takes 1 hour.
I was convinced myself.

Removing the rail:
1. We hang out the front wheels, remove the steering rods from the fists.
2. We put the car on the wheels, unscrew and dismantle the subframe. Otherwise, some bolts can be broken when unscrewing.
3. We make notes of parts everywhere, so that it is easier to screw them into place and the camber does not float away.
4. We get access to the rail, disconnect the wires and take them out of the plastic casing on the fasteners of the left lever, otherwise they will break off.
- I propose to unscrew the bottom plug with a 22 wrench, under the rack rod, rip off the 17 nut securing the rod in the lower bearing.
Tighten the plug slightly to keep out dirt.
5. Unscrew the bolt 13 at the cordan in the pedal assembly and lift the cordan up.
6. Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the LEFT suspension arm so that the rail can go down and exit the passenger compartment with a shank.
In this case, the lever remains hanging only on the ball, so we tie it up.
7. Carefully take out the complete rail and carry it to the trepanation table.
8. When installing the rail in place, it is necessary to hang out the wheels again so that the lever mount can be tightened, because the wheel is gone.
I ALWAYS recommend placing rubber spacers between the stabilizer mounts and the rail anthers, because when hanging the wheels, the stabilizer skews and it tears the anthers.
9. Assembling the suspension in the reverse order.

Unscrew the bottom plug and nut completely.
Unscrew the 2 bolts from above and remove the cover with a rubber spacer that ensures tightness to the interior.
Mark the relative position of the parts under the lid with a felt-tip pen.
On the reverse side, knock the rod out of the rail with light blows.
The preload in the bearing is very weak, so it is knocked out, for example, by the ratchet extension.

On occasion, I will take more general pictures.

Now we have a stock with a torque sensor in our hands.
It is important to know that from the middle position the sensor should rotate approximately 2 turns in each direction so that the cochlea does not break off.

To dismantle the snail ring, we solder 4 contacts from the sensor.
Now there is a black ring with latches on the bottom, which must be carefully lowered down with a screwdriver.
After that, the body of the ring with the volute can be removed from the axis.
To remove the black top of the ring, you need to squeeze out 3 latches, one at a time.

Several pictures of the disassembled axle with the sensor and explanations.

Ring body without snail.The top black cover is visible:

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You need to make a comp. diagnostics and see what errors are going on, which rail unit does not work.

You can read about the device of an electromechanical rail here
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3113/index.php?p=page07
"Electromechanical power steering with two gears (rus.)"

The rack with electronic components is supplied as a single item, that is, if any block comes out, this block cannot be bought separately from the VAG catalog, only assembled, or you can look for parts on parses.

I have no electro
but somewhere I read that electro has an adaptation
it is necessary to the left until it stops, then to the right until it stops
and put in the middle

Exist:
Requested SKU
VAG 1K1 423 055 CX Steering gear - - [! ] -
Analogs (substitutes) for the requested article
Lucas / TRW JRP 904 Power steering rack 780,57 € [! ]
Quinton Hazell QSRE1309 Steering gear 1 694,02 € [! ]
Zf parts 8001 445 Steering gear 1 094,19 € [! ]

and they are all restored [! ] at the factory 👿
accept sympathy, and try to turn to another office. ONE HUNDRED

Andrey81 "24 Sep 2008, 21:58

PaPichka "12 Nov 2008, 19:42

Kukish "12 Nov 2008, 23:02

IL "13 Nov 2008, 11:18

Vasechkin "13 Nov 2008, 12:14

IL "13 Nov 2008, 17:30

It seems to me that in Moscow, OD began to "get on the wrong side" a little, you write such fears, horror. We have no problems with the test trip at all, well, only the time must be discussed in advance and forward.

BOB37 "14 Nov 2008, 08:30

Scaglietti »14 Nov 2008, 09:17

It is currently unprofitable for manufacturers to produce reliable vehicles. The service life laid down in them is 5 to a maximum of 7 years. Draw your own conclusions!

IL »14 Nov 2008, 09:56

Not right. The best electric amplifier is installed on VW, and there are few problems with it, in general, that is probably why this topic has caused such a resonance in the minds of "Golf drivers" that no one ever knew about it. That's why I wrote

BOB37 "14 Nov 2008, 12:50

klaimer "14 Nov 2008, 14:37

Kukish "14 Nov 2008, 17:10

IL "14 Nov 2008, 19:23

I don’t know how on the GETZ, at VW the electric booster is on the rail and pushes the rail, and the steering shaft is in the opposite direction and gets the opposite effect of communication with the rail itself. The signal to the amplifier motor comes from the steering shaft position sensor. In general, the steering shaft itself is an electric motor by itself, they are interconnected by a rail to the edges of which the steering rods are screwed, and electronics.

Mixagolf1 »15 Nov 2008, 01:08

Hmm .. Did the winter wheels change to the summer ones together with the disks? Painfully similar to the behavior of my old Golf when I put it on wheels with the wrong offset.

VW Golf Cabriolet '89 2.0RE - Sold Out
VW Golf V '07 1.9TDI, stock

Vasechkin »15 Nov 2008, 09:51

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VW Minibus Fan Club

Message LaYa »01 Oct 2014, 14:04

Message raxon »01 Oct 2014, 17:56

Message ogurets »01 Oct 2014, 19:10

Message raxon »01 Oct 2014, 19:36

I think I'll have to take the plastic from the polo sedan or sculpt it from fiberglass myself, about the effort I can only say a general phrase: a person is not a brute, he gets used to everything.

[upd = 1412182031] [/ upd]
Especially with regard to plastic, the interior of our minibus is not so steep to bother like that, especially a torpedo made of iron, devices are also like a tractor gearshift lever, damn it like on a big truck))))) I think the advantages of installing an electric amplifier more than cover all the disadvantages lack of plastic steering column in the near future.

Message vagmax »02 Oct 2014, 08:26

Message raxon »02 Oct 2014, 18:31

Yes, yes, I agree 100%, I had an Audi s4 before synchro 230 horses under the hood, there was no Servotronic (weighting the steering wheel when picking up speed) and nothing, I managed to drive 220 km / h as the steering wheel was light at speed and just during maneuvers, it remained, I had no problems with this, so I do not bother with this function at all.
Today I found out that a dragonfly from the Audi 100, 91-96, is suitable for this steering column (they stand in the region of 1000r). and from audi a4 to 2002 with an airbag and from a barrel, everything gets up like a native with minor alterations, took 80 b4 from the audi, plus cut off the connectors from the wiring on the car to re-solder to his own and it will be like a native one and adjusted the contact group from audi a4))) one fig vagovskoe is all the same reliable and Volkswagen Audi badges on each pribluda, it will be easier to pick up parts later in the event of a breakdown, now it remains to marry the wiring with your family on the conveyor and start installing. Along the way, I think the signaling in the wiring (while the house is lying on the table) to implant.

[upd = 1412264100] [/ upd]
I will clarify about the steering column: the one from the Polo sedan.

paveloo7
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Good day
Friends, help with the problem:
A year ago, the yellow steering wheel caught fire, while the steering functionality (as it seems to me) was not violated. I went to diagnostics, it turned out to be a sensor error g-85. So the year passed. And a couple of days ago, during a long turn, the eur turned off and the red steering wheel lit up to the accompaniment of three sound signals. I removed the battery and the steering wheel turned yellow again. But this was not enough for a long time and literally two kilometers later again: piii piii piii. Yesterday I removed the rail, sinned on the sensor cable that is located on the stock directly under the steering wheel, but when I rang it, it turned out that everything was in order with it. I tried, after installation, to throw errors through VAG-COM, it did not help. Here are the error codes:

Address 44: Power steering Labels: 1Kx-909-14x-44.clb
Control unit number: 1K1 909 144 F
Component and / or version: EPS_ZFLS Kl.0 1301
Encoding:
Workshop code: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2E570A8BF2372
2 Faults Found:

00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
000 – –
00003 - Control Module
014 - Defective

Please tell me where to look for the problem, what to repair or change. I really don't want to change the rail assembly. The car is disassembled - it hurts to look

nonsense to drink »28 Jan 2013, 16:19

pashustic »28 Jan 2013, 16:35

Passat B6 1.9 TDI noDPF noEGR BLS 5МКПП
Installation of additional equipment
Odometer correction, prescribing, linking start keys., Removing soot. filter, turning off the USR in St. Petersburg

elena12345 »29 Jan 2013, 06:38

nonsense to drink "Jan 29, 2013, 10:44 am

andrey5726 »30 Jan 2013, 12:33

slavik049 "30 Jan 2013, 17:19

nonsense to drink »01 Feb 2013, 08:50

Anuar »09 Feb 2013, 20:05

nonsense to drink »13 Feb 2013, 09:37

andrey5726 Feb 14, 2013 5:51 pm

nonsense to drink »20 Feb 2013, 20:50

explosion32rus »20 Feb 2013, 20:58

srdwan Feb 23, 2013 12:03 pm

GOOD TIME DAY EVERYONE.
In general, the problem I have is the following: the steering rack has been replaced, now the rack lives its own lives, then it works fine, then the electric amplifier turns off and the red steering wheel is on. What could be the reason? and a couple of errors appear. Address 09: Onboard supply control unit Labels: 3C0-937-049-23-H.clb
Part No SW: 3C0 937 049 J HW: 3C0 937 049 J
Component: Bordnetz-SG H37 1301
Revision: 00H37000 Serial number: 00000005420618
Coding: F1888F0701041A00000000000F00000000095D435C0000
Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
VCID: 3064ECD9A30B8C9E381

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 3C1 955 119 Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer VW461 012 0503
Coding: 00063445
Shop #: WSC 05311

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 T Labels: 1K0-955-559-AF.CLB
Component: RegenLichtSens 011 1110
Coding: 00208933
Shop #: WSC 05311

1 malfunction:
01309 - Power steering control unit-J500
004 - no signal / communication - intermittent
Freeze:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault priority: 2
Error frequency: 1
Forgetting Index: 62
Mileage: 265154 km
Countdown time: 0

Freeze:
on
Voltage: 14.20 V
on
on
off
off
off Address 44: Power steering Labels: 1Kx-909-14x-44.clb
Part No: 1K1 909 144 E
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.0 1202
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2D5AF5ADB439E176137

3 Faults Found:
01312 - Data bus drive
012 - electrical fault in the circuit - Intermittent
Freeze:
Mileage: 5120 km
Temperature: 10.0 ° C
Voltage: 14.30 V
Voltage: 14.20 V

01314 - Engine control unit
004 - no signal / communication - intermittent
Freeze:
Mileage: 5120 km
Temperature: 10.0 ° C
Voltage: 14.20 V
Voltage: 14.10 V

00625 - Speed signal
004 - no signal / communication - intermittent
Freeze:
Mileage: 5120 km
Temperature: 10.0 ° C
Voltage: 14.20 V
Voltage: 14.10 V

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message AndyMas »18 Oct 2013, 12:55

Message Digital »18 Oct 2013, 13:19

Message AndyMas »18 Oct 2013, 14:18

Message Andrey24 »18 Oct 2013, 15:57

Message Sova125 »Oct 19, 2013 10:09 am

Message Slava838 »07 Nov 2013, 12:05

Message sergikoff »07 Nov 2013, 12:46

Message Slava838 »08 Nov 2013, 05:03

Message Digital »08 Nov 2013, 05:35

Message sergikoff »08 Nov 2013, 09:54

Message Slava838 »08 Nov 2013, 10:33

Message Digital »08 Nov 2013, 11:03

I am posting Denis's “homework” from Vladivostok (Denver007). Thanks to him for his persistence and quick wits.

“I will send you another photo with the second letter.
But I think I have outlined the principle in an accessible way, the puck must be worn from the side, which is marked with a red marker (photo 2), the development can be seen in photos 3 and 4.
When the washer is in place, the structure is assembled without problems. Rubs nothing and does not interfere, i.e. inside there is a place for the current shift of the gear.
In general, I did everything on Sunday, today I did the wheel alignment and I would give myself 6 points)))))
Upload pictures and save everyone, I hope for a long time))))
Denis. Vladivostok. "

Hello to all. Help such a problem machine Volkswagen Touran 2006 2litra diesel Body 1T1
the amplifier does not work, or it works but the effort is large, rather it does not work.
The steering wheel icon is on, and the esp icon is still on. The car on a slippery road. In theory, it should be turned off with a button, but does not respond to the button.
There are no errors in the diagnostics in the ABS block.
in block 44 on the amplifier hangs error 02546 - Steering wheel Stop Limit: no or incorrect basic setting / adaptation
Does not reset.
what to do and what to check. I tried to look on the Internet, they write that almost the steering wheel needs to be changed.

By the way, he came to me, everything worked, it stopped working during the repair. Although I rechecked everything that I did everything right.
And I arrived with a steering wheel that was not installed correctly. After replacing the ignition switch.
Well, I put the steering wheel on the label and the problem went away, but the amplifier stopped working. And this error no one really writes what to do with it.

Danil, put the topic in order, otherwise I'll delete it in an hour and write out a warning.

sorry, what exactly to do

Like

I do not like

Evgenievich 06 Jun 2014

Read the rules for creating themes. Brand, model, motor letters - in Latin. And so on according to the rules.

And on the car - have you tried to adapt? In extreme positions, the steering wheel for 2-3 seconds, then again in the middle. Something like this.

Like

I do not like

Evgenievich 06 Jun 2014

02546 - Steering Limit Stop: No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation

The electric booster allows you to reduce the physical effort that the driver applies to turn the steering wheel. The EUR began to fall into the "masses" in the mid-nineties, before that hydraulic amplification technology was used for steering assistance. It is still used on oversized models, since the electric amplifier is still not so powerful. In general, this is where the shortcomings of the electrical system before the power steering end.

If we talk about the pros, the EUR is much lighter and more compact, has almost no effect on fuel consumption, and allows you to change the steering power mode. In most cases, the EUR works without starting the engine, with the ignition on. Finally, the breakdown of the power steering is a much more serious problem, since it is most likely associated with a leak from the hoses. If not, then it will still take a long time to figure it out, the GUR has much more additional structural elements than its electromechanical counterpart.

Electric power steering

However, the helmsman electric amplifier has been installed on production cars for more than a dozen years, and it is obvious that it also had "misfires" during this time.As noted by the repairmen of electrical and electronic systems of the car, the main malfunctions in the operation of the EUR are associated with a blown fuse. Very often, the electric power steering breaks down due to a burnout of the engine. This is usually due to contact with moisture. If you do not have special skills, it is better to solve these problems in a car service. However, no less often a service station is contacted with a failure of the steering shaft rotation sensors.

Sometimes the electric booster malfunction lamp comes on after replacing the battery, for example, in a Volkswagen Golf. Owners should not panic, because in most cases this ailment can be cured by driving a car about fifty meters. Drivers of Nissan Micra often encounter malfunctions associated with the electronic unit or the motor, which is installed directly on the steering shaft, due to which even light blows to the side wheels can damage the mechanism. Repairing or replacing the EUR is not the cheapest pleasure. While the price of this service for Russian cars is even more or less acceptable (10 thousand rubles for Lada Kalina), the owners of inexpensive Japanese or German foreign cars will cost no less than 50 thousand rubles.