If the return line freezes in the refrigerator, do it yourself repairs

In detail: if the return flow freezes in the refrigerator, do it yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In an old 1994 Snaige refrigerator, the tube that goes from the compressor to the inside of the refrigerator is covered with a thick layer of ice, and when there is no light, this ice melts and a huge puddle forms near the refrigerator. How will it fix it? Why does this happen?

The compressor compresses the refrigerant. From this he warms up. Hot refrigerant under pressure enters the radiator located on the back wall of the refrigerator (therefore the radiator is hot), there it is cooled by room air to almost room temperature, and most of it condenses. This mixture of liquid and gas then enters the expander. From it to the freezer there is a thin tube that lets only liquid through. This tube is thin, and the temperature in it is close to room temperature, and nothing can condense and freeze on it. The liquid refrigerant enters the heat exchanger tubes of the freezer. There, it takes heat from the contents of the freezer (actually from the air in the freezer). Due to this heat, it evaporates, and in the form of gas it enters the compressor again. It is on this tube that ice is probably freezing.

A cold gaseous refrigerant comes out of the freezer, and if the heat exchange in the freezer is poor, then some liquid is possible. This cold refrigerant cools the humid kitchen air in contact with it, and water vapor condenses from it. Therefore, this tube fogs up, and even freezes over, becomes covered with ice. In principle, this is normal. But if there is too much ice, then the freezer temperature is probably set too low on the dial (too strong cooling). Try to lower the task (set a higher temperature). Or the inside and outside of the freezer is covered with a thick layer of ice, and therefore the refrigerant cannot take as much heat as it does with an unfrozen freezer. Defrost the refrigerator often. The tube itself can be isolated from the humid air of the kitchen by simply wrapping a layer of soft foam around it. The stores sell heat-insulating polyethylene foam tubes, but they are large, you just need a little bit, so any foam rubber from some old packaging will do.

Video (click to play).

Frost on a refrigerator compressor tube is a fairly common breakdown. Various factors can provoke this malfunction, and only qualified specialists can fix the breakdown in this case.

In order to understand why the compressor tube on the refrigerator freezes, it is necessary to understand the processes that occur in the unit.

The operation of the device begins with the fact that the refrigerant is compressed by the compressor, as a result of which it heats up. The heated substance enters the radiator. In the radiator, it cools down to almost room temperature, and a large amount of it begins to condense. The liquid and gas then enter the expander together. From the expander into the freezer there is a thin tube that is capable of passing exclusively liquid substances. Nothing can freeze or condense on it.

Then the liquid freon enters the heat exchange tube, which is located in the freezer. Excessive heat from the freezer should cause liquid in the suction tube to evaporate. It is at this moment that the temperature in the chamber decreases to the one set on the control unit.Freon should come out of the freezer only in a gaseous state. If the heat exchange is disturbed, there will be some liquid impurity. The freon flowing back to the compressor begins to cool the humid warm outside air. It turns into steam and, as a result, the pipe may fog up and, in some cases, become covered with frost and ice. This is considered the norm. Sometimes there can be too much ice.

Excessive ice and frost on the tube can be caused by:

too low temperature in the freezer;
there is too much ice in the freezer due to which the refrigerant cannot take up the required amount of heat.

If you notice that the refrigerator tube is often covered with frost or, even worse, a lot of ice, then you can try to fix the problem yourself. There are several ways.

Defrost the refrigerator often.
Change the temperature in the freezer to a higher temperature.
Wrap some foam rubber around the tube, which will protect it from the humid air of the room in which the refrigerator is located.

In some cases, it may be necessary to refuel the refrigerator with freon.

Nevertheless, if you notice any malfunctions in the operation of the refrigerator, you should seek the qualified help of a master. Only he will be able to correctly diagnose the problem and, with the help of special tools, fix it in a short time.

the main task is to eliminate problems in the operation of your refrigerator with high quality, in the shortest possible time and at an affordable price

4 Elevated temperature of the filter drier, capillary, filter and capillary can be just hot with heavy refilling.
5 freezing of the return pipe up to the branch pipe of the motor-compressor; during long-term operation of the refrigerator, the thickness of the frost cover can reach 2 - 3 cm.

Dose adjustments should be made at steady state, i.e. after running in the refrigeration unit for at least 1 hour. Measure the suction pressure if it is more than 0.08 MPa (R134a) freon is released to the specified pressure. Bleed freon in stages, after each decrease in the amount of freon in the refrigeration unit, let the refrigerator run for 5 minutes. The filling rate is controlled by the degree of freezing of the suction line, it should freeze no more than 10 cm from the tube outlet from the refrigerator body. When the amount of freon approaches the refueling rate, the frost border on the return pipe will begin to move away from the compressor towards the evaporator.

Information about the brand and amount of refrigerant is usually placed by the manufacturer in the refrigerator compartment on the side wall, at the level of vegetable boxes

Exactly! if there were less freon in the system, then there would already be gas in that tube, and the evaporation process did not take place and this tube would not absorb heat, so the bitch greedily froze over to horror.

So, in the common cell +5, the freezer is -10. I have too much liquid in the system, which means that the evaporation process does not start where the freon enters the freezer, but later, so the freezer is warmer than necessary. The return line freezes over everything that is visible from the outside. It freezes over strongly, that's why it drips from it.

Friends! I want to try and bleed it myself. I understand that the task is daunting - you need to understand how much to bleed visually, you need some kind of tool. it's not difficult for me to find and call a master, but I love to do everything myself! who knows, he will understand)) who can, become my boss! tell me what to do and I'll go! from me mogar) I can write poems to order ANY, for example, or whatever you want it to be like and say)

Freon is an inert gas, odorless. At atmospheric pressure, it boils at temperatures below zero. But the compressor creates such a pressure that the refrigerant condenses into liquid, heats the circuits, before it turns into gas again in the evaporator. The process of cooling the chambers requires a certain amount of refrigerant.Leakage reduces the cold performance of the apparatus. The task of the master is to find out where the freon has flowed out of the refrigerator, eliminate the fistula and pump in a new portion of the refrigerant.

An insufficient amount of freon disturbs the thermal balance, uses less heat for evaporation. The reason for the leakage of refrigerant from the refrigerator is almost always due to a violation of the operating instructions:

Improper transportation of the refrigerator, loading and installation with sudden jerks can lead to the destruction of the welding seams.
Speeding up defrosting with mechanical ice breaking with a knife or fork may damage the tubes in the freezer.
Rare defrosting, accumulation of ice, its melting at the door contribute to rusting of the pipes in the heating circuit. Fistulas form at the bottom where moisture seeps through the seal.
Natural aging of the material, corrosion.
Manufacturing defects.

If there is not enough freon in the refrigerator, the compressor will work without stopping, and the chamber will be warm. A technician with the right equipment can pinpoint both the leak and other malfunctions. Similar signs can be with a loosely closed door, violation of the integrity of the gaskets.

To independently determine if there is freon in the refrigerator, you should defrost and dry the device. If, after it is turned on, there is no cold in the chambers, the condenser grid is cold - the freon has leaked out. What to do? Need a refueling.

How to find the leak yourself? In open areas, the puncture site will be marked with a black spot - the gas has escaped, and the oil in the circuit is non-volatile, it remains around the fistula. If a tube burst in the foamed part of the refrigerator, the wall of the chamber will swell, indicating the place of leakage. A specialist in the search for a freon leak in a refrigerator uses a leak detector - a device that works on the principle of a metal detector. Having found the place of damage, the device beeps.

It is possible to determine that freon has leaked out of the refrigerator if it is warm in the chambers, there is a brown oily puddle on the floor near the compressor. The refrigerant evaporated at room temperature, leaving oil, decomposition products, condensation as a trace. You can understand that freon has leaked out of the refrigerator yourself, as soon as puddles from melted products and the uniform noise of a running compressor are detected. If at the same time you touch the capacitor - the grid on the end part, it will be cold. This is the surest indicator that the freon in the refrigerator has run out.

When users complain about an unpleasant smell from the refrigerator and associate it with a freon leak, they are right. Yes, the gas is colorless and odorless. But the refrigerant evaporates into the microscopic hole gradually. The climate in the cell is changing. Microparticles of pathogens appear, an unpleasant odor is created. This is due to the high humidity. What to do if there is a suspicion that freon is coming out of the refrigerator?

Check how often the compressor stops or runs continuously.
Check the integrity of the door seal and the tightness of the contour. Take a sheet of thick high-quality paper, cut off a 5 cm strip and stretch it through the closed door. Dragging on with difficulty - the seal is normal.
The compressor does not stop, there is no cold, check the mains voltage. Compressor capacity is 0 if the mains supply is 185 V. The motor will run, but there will be no compression.

If other reasons are excluded, contact a specialized center for diagnostics. A specialist knows how to determine the presence of freon in a refrigerator or its absence.

The most expensive repair, if freon has leaked out of the refrigerator, is considered to be a change in the refrigerant circuit. The cost of work depends on the location of the leak. If this is a door heating circuit, it is muffled and the tube is laid along the back wall. If a fistula has formed in the housing, it is required to remove the insulation, re-lay the circuit and foamed.

The work is expensive, but even in a workshop it is impossible to re-create the factory outline. Repair with damage to thermal insulation changes the thermodynamic properties of the chambers. Some companies, such as Liebherr, consider refrigerators with Freon leaking in the foam part non-repairable. Within 10 years of operation, according to the conclusion of their own service center, they can change the device, contrary to Russian trade rules.

In the circuit, different methods are used to restore the tightness. The aluminum evaporator uses solder brazing with an aluminum base to seal punctures.

The joint of a copper tube with an aluminum one is performed by argon welding on a special installation. It is possible that the gas outlet occurs at the junction of the choke and the compressor, and the rest of the circuit does not require repair. The master has several ways to determine the location of the freon leak in the refrigerator. The repairman's actions take place in the following sequence:

diagnostics of malfunctions;
detecting cracks and fistulas in the pipes of the cooling circuit, troubleshooting at home or in the workshop;
evacuation of the system in order to remove condensate and freon residues;
filling the circuit with gas in a certain volume;
checking the system for leaks and ability to cool.

If, after pumping in the refrigerant, the cooling effect has decreased and frosting of the suction tube into the compressor is observed - a lot of freon has been pumped in - recharging is required at the expense of the master.

Compared to replacing a compressor, finding a crack and restoring a circuit are much cheaper. The refrigerator gets a second life. There are times when an evaporator, repaired 15 years ago, still works in an old refrigerator, in exile in the country. Freon just can't flow out of the refrigerator. The cold circuit is sealed. Over the years, there may be a leak at the junction between the copper and aluminum tubing. In Russian models, leaks are often found in the door heating circuit. Inexpensive repairs restore the functionality of the device completely. That is why, as soon as you found out that freon had leaked out of the refrigerator, you need to call the master as soon as possible. This operation is not performed on its own - the risk of adding several more to one problem is too great.

If the compressor runs without stopping, remember how it all started. Perhaps there was meat in the freezer, and you tore it from the wall with ice. Or maybe, trying to defrost the camera faster, they "gently" pushed the ice crust away from the surface with a knife. At that moment, a small hiss was heard, and soon everything died down. It was? Then the reason for the leak is obvious. The problem itself will not be solved, soon all the gas will bleed off, and the products will start to deteriorate. It is necessary to call a technician to fix the damage or replace the evaporator.

We offer you to watch a video on eliminating a leak in the refrigerator heating circuit.

The refrigerator most often breaks down at the most inopportune moment. What was the reason, how serious the breakdown is, how it can be fixed - the summary table of refrigerator malfunctions will help to answer these questions.Classic refrigerator (without No Frost system) works as follows:Now that we are familiar with the refrigerator device, we propose the following sequence of actions:Try to identify the problem. in the vast majority of cases, this is not difficult by following the instructions for troubleshooting.If possible, repair it yourself. A person who is familiar with the device of the refrigerator and has a minimum set of tools is able to eliminate most of the malfunctions not related to depressurization of the system.If self-repair is not possible, choose a company, determine the cost of repairs and call a master.At the end of the repair, adhere to the recommendations for operating the refrigerator.The sequence of actions to identify the failed part and recommendations for repair. For compressor refrigerators without No Frost system.Check the voltage in the outlet, it should be in the range of 200-240 Volts, if this is not the case, the refrigerator is not obliged to work (although it may work for a while, especially the old models.)All repair work must be carried out with the refrigerator unplugged and defrosted!a) Check if the light inside the refrigerator is on, if it used to be on, but now it is off - there is a malfunction in the power cord or electrical plug (this is a fairly common malfunction and it is not necessary to call a refrigerator repair technician to fix it).b) If the light comes on, the first thing to do is to check the thermostat:- we find two wires suitable for the thermostat, remove them from the terminals and connect them together. If
the refrigerator will then work - we change the thermostat and the repair is completed.c) If the thermostat is working properly. In the same way, we check the button for defrosting the refrigerator.d) For further diagnostics, you will need an ohmmeter. We disconnect and call the starting and protective relay (they can be assembled in one case), if we find an open circuit, we replace the defective part.e) The electric motor of the motor-compressor remains, it is difficult to replace it without the participation of a specialist, but since we got to it, it is worth finding out what exactly the malfunction is. There may be three defects in this unit:- winding breakage;
- turn-to-turn closure of the winding;
- short circuit to the motor compressor case;How to identify them is generally clear: all three contacts of the electric motor should ring among themselves and not ring with the case. If the resistance between any two contacts is less than 20 ohms, this may indicate an interturn closure.f) If you carefully completed the previous points and did not find a malfunction, this most likely indicates oxidation of the contacts in one of the connections of the refrigerator electrical circuit. Carefully inspect and clean all the contact groups that you disassembled, restore the refrigerator circuit in the reverse order - the refrigerator should work. Image - If the return line freezes in the refrigerator, do it yourself repairs

1 - electric motor
motor-compressor
1.1 - working winding
1.2 - starting winding

3 - thermostat contacts

10 - defrost button

11 - protection relay
11.1 - bimetallic plate
11.2 - relay contacts

12 - starting relay
12.1 - relay coil
12.2 - relay contacts

a) Defect in the bimetallic plate 11.1 of the protective relay: determine the malfunction and replace the part.
b) Defective coil (or other current sensor) 12.1 starting relay: determine the malfunction and replace the part.
c) Breakage of the starting winding of the electric motor 1.2: we determine the malfunction and call the repairman of refrigerators to replace the motor-compressor.

a) Freon leakage: Determined as follows - if the compressor is running and the amount of freon is normal, the condenser should heat up, touch it with your hand (carefully, it can heat up to 70 degrees), if after prolonged engine operation it remains cold, then the system is depressurizing ... Disconnect the refrigerator from the network and call the wizard.
b) Violation of the thermostat regulation. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one, if the refrigerator works in normal mode - return the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
c) Decreased performance of the motor-compressor. This is a hard-to-diagnose malfunction, call the wizard

a) Violation of the thermostat regulation. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one, if the refrigerator works in normal mode - return the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
b) The rubber of the refrigerator door seal has lost its shape and elasticity.If the door does not close tightly, warm air will enter the refrigerator, the temperature regime will not be maintained and the motor-compressor will work with increased load. Carefully inspect the seal, defective - replace. (see also next point)
c) The door of the refrigerator led. The door geometry is adjusted by changing the tension of the two diagonal rods located under the door panel. For more information on how to adjust the door, see Removing gaps in refrigerator doors.
d) Decreased performance of the motor-compressor. This is a hard-to-diagnose malfunction, call the wizard

a) If the refrigerator turns off from time to time, but the temperature in it is too low - slightly turn the thermostat knob counterclockwise, if this does not help - see Violation of the thermostat adjustment
b) The fast freezing button is forgotten in the pressed position - turn it off.

Many malfunctions that subsequently lead to costly repairs to the refrigerator arise as a result of improper operation of the unit. Here are some simple tips:
a) If the refrigerator has been turned off for any reason, wait five minutes before turning it on again. This process can be automated, see the timer to delay the inclusion of the refrigerator

b) If the refrigerator has been defrosted, do not load it with food before it runs empty for one cycle and turns off.

Read also: Gas stove hansa DIY repair

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Have you opened the refrigerator to get something to eat when you suddenly find that a fair amount of water has accumulated under the fruit and vegetable drawers? You wiped it off once, then again, but the water comes up again and again. Looking closely, you may have noticed ice build-up in the refrigerator compartment drain. Also, an unpleasant odor could appear in the refrigerator. What's this? Breaking?

Let's say right away that the presence of moisture inside the refrigerating chamber is permissible only on the back wall and only for refrigerators with a drip defrost system. It shouldn't be under the boxes at all. However, if you nevertheless find water in the refrigerator compartment, this does not always indicate a breakdown of any unit of the unit. In some cases, this problem can be corrected by hand.

In order to understand the reason for the appearance of water under the drawers for fruits and vegetables inside the refrigerator, first find out the design of the refrigerator compartment of your unit. In modern two-compartment refrigerators (whether your refrigerator is a foreign brand Bosch, Samsung, Indesit or a domestic one - Biryusa, Atlant), it can be of two types:

1. Clogged drain hose or hole. If water regularly accumulates in the refrigerator with a "crying" evaporator underneath the fruit and vegetable drawer, then most likely the drain is clogged. Its purpose is to remove melt water from the refrigeration compartment into a special tank located near the compressor. Drainage blockages occur due to the peculiarities of the drip defrost system: dust, crumbs, food residues, etc., can enter the drain hole along with drops of melt water (which can cause an unpleasant odor in the refrigerator). When the drain is clogged, the water cannot escape. It stands in the drain, and the excess flows down to the bottom of the refrigerating chamber, just under the boxes. During the cooling cycle, water in the drain often freezes and ice builds up in and around the drain hole. If you ignore the clogging of the drain hole for a long time, the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment will freeze up (it will not have time to defrost) and loss of refrigeration capacity. In this case, the compressor of the refrigerator will be turned off less often in order to compensate for the lack of cold.

In order to restore normal operation of the refrigerator, the drain hole should be cleaned. Below are two possible cleaning patterns that should be applied in sequence.

Scheme No. 1. Cotton swab + syringe

Unplug the refrigerator from the outlet. Before starting work, unplug the refrigerator and remove the fruit and vegetable drawers from the refrigerator.
Clean the drain hole. If there is no ice around the drain hole, try cleaning it with a cotton swab or similar, non-sharp object. Many models come with a special attachment designed for this purpose.
Flush the drain. Take a small syringe filled with warm (not hot!) Water and inject water several times into the drain hole. If the water successfully flows into the condensation tray, congratulations, the blockage has been cleared.

If these actions did not bring the desired result, and all the water from the syringe is poured back into the refrigerator, most likely the drain hose is frozen over, and you cannot do without completely defrosting the refrigerator.

Scheme No. 2. Defrost the refrigerator and, if necessary, use the wire

Defrost the refrigerator and repeat the cleaning and douching of the drain. To do this, remove food from the refrigerator and leave it off with the door open for 8-12 hours. After defrosting, repeat the procedure for cleaning and syringing the drain.
Clean the drain channel with a wire. If water still does not flow into the condensation tray, take a thin wire and use it to clean the drain. In this case, you need to act as carefully as possible so as not to damage the drain hose and plastic of the refrigerator. Moreover, you should try to clean it with a wire both from the side of the drain hole from the inside of the refrigerator, and from the opposite end of the drain hose. As a rule, this method allows you to achieve a positive result. If not, call a professional refrigerator repairman.

2. Incorrect installation of the refrigerator. If the refrigerator is not level, the door may not fit snugly. Because of this, warm air will enter the refrigerator compartment, and the unit, trying to compensate for the lack of cold, will turn off less often. Infrequent shutdowns can lead to the formation of ice on the rear wall of the refrigerator compartment and around the drainage hole until it freezes completely. During infrequent defrost cycles, the drain hole will not cope with the increased amount of water (or moisture will not go away at all if the drain is frozen), and water will collect in the refrigerator compartment below the drawers. In addition, the reservoir for collecting water may also not cope with its amount, and then you will see a puddle under the refrigerator. To fix the problem, you need to install the refrigerator strictly according to the level.

If cleaning the drain hole and adjusting the level did not bring any result, and water still accumulates in the refrigerator under the drawers, most likely it is a breakdown, the elimination of which will require the intervention of a professional technician.

More than 55,000 users have entrusted the repair of their refrigeration units to the RemBytTech workshop, and the situation with the appearance of water at the bottom of the refrigerating chamber under the boxes for fruits and vegetables is painfully familiar to us. Based on the data of the repairs performed, we have collected the most common breakdowns of refrigerators with a "crying" evaporator, when water collects inside the refrigerator under the drawers, in the table below.

You can clean the drain tube in the refrigerator in one very simple and affordable way. This will require a medical rubber bulb. Hot water is drawn into the pear, and then the tip of the pear is inserted into the drain hole and, with a sharp push, the water under pressure flows through the drainage tube, thereby rinsing it and removing all blockages.

Therefore, this procedure must be repeated several times, remembering to remove all the dirty water from the tray above the compressor.

Condensation that has accumulated under the fruit and vegetable drawers in the refrigerator is a sure sign of a clogged drain tube. I had to deal with unscrupulous home appliances masters who ripped off a lot of money for such a “breakdown”, claiming that the refrigerator had a serious breakdown. In fact, any man in the street can carry out cleaning with the help of improvised means. There are the following options:

With a rubber bulb.

A pear can be purchased at any pharmacy. Fill the prepared cleaning tool with warm water and insert it into the drain of the refrigerator. Then press down sharply on the pear.

Using a hand pump or compressor.

The drain tube can be simply blown out using a car or bicycle pump. The tasks are simplified if the farm has a compressor. I purge my refrigerator about once a month for prophylaxis with such a small pump, purchased specifically for these purposes (so that it is at hand):

With a piece of wire or non-rigid wire.

Bend the end into a loop and clean the tubing in a forward / backward motion, periodically twisting the wire. You need to do it for 1.5-2 minutes.

How can you be sure that you are cleaning the drain tube successfully?

Fill a glass with some water and pour it into the gutter near the drain. If the tube is cleaned properly, the water will quickly drain. If the water stagnates, the cleaning procedure must be repeated using one of the indicated methods.

The drainage tube, if possible, needs to be removed and washed, softening the debris that clogged it with your fingers, if possible, but if this is not possible and it is under the body, then you have to tinker, often clogged as if there were no holes at all. We take from the grandfathers in the market and buy a couple of meters of knitting, soft, galvanized wire, with a diameter of about one and a half millimeters, we wipe the end at home, about a sharpener, sandpaper, just a brick wall or a piece of stone (crushed stone) so that the end does not have sharp edges so as not damage the parts of the refrigerator and slightly moving and scrolling, we clean the tube deeper and deeper, pour warm water into the hole, this will speed up the process, when the wire appears from the other end, bend it with the lever to the side and twist it dragging it back along the tube (length 2 meters that's enough), then pull it out and wind it up for you to use, and rinse the refrigerator tube with a syringe or just spill it with some water.

Quite often there are situations when the refrigerator works, but does not freeze. In this case, you should not rush to call the master, because perhaps the cause of the breakdown is not as complicated as it might seem.

Today we will get acquainted with the information on how to independently diagnose the refrigerator, and also consider the most common reasons why the refrigerator does not freeze, but the main compartment continues to work.

Before proceeding with self-diagnosis of the refrigeration unit, you should make sure that it is connected to the network, it is securely and the doors are tightly closed. If all these conditions are met, then you can proceed to the equipment diagnostics, which includes the following actions:

Thus, with self-diagnosis, you can identify and eliminate common minor malfunctions, why the refrigerator works, but at the same time the freezer does not fulfill its tasks. However, if after these actions the refrigerator still does not freeze, the reasons may be more serious.

Along with minor possible causes, you can independently identify more complex equipment malfunctions.

If the engine has been working properly for some time, while the engine sounds are heard, but then it turns off, and there is no cold, then most likely the motor compressor cannot start. Additionally, clicks can be heard after about 10 seconds. humming of the motor compressor - this is how the thermal protection located in the thermal relay is activated. Moreover, the motor tries to re-start after 3 minutes.

There may be several reasons for this behavior, namely:

failure of the relay;
the starting capacitor was broken;
the motor burned out.

What actions should be taken in such cases? The relay is fixed on the motor compressor, so you need to inspect the relay and if periodic clicks are detected, it can be concluded that it is working properly. And if this part is "silent", it will have to be replaced.

The capacitor for starting the motor can be checked with a tester.To do this, you must first discharge it through the resistance. If the capacitor is in good working order, the arrow of the tester, set to measure the resistance in mΩ, should first drop sharply, and then return to its initial position.

If the condenser turned out to be working, but the refrigerator still does not freeze, then most likely you will have to go to a workshop to replace the burnt out motor.

Quite often, the cause of the failure of the freezer is the leakage of freon from the system. This confirms the long-term operation of the engine and the presence of cold condensation on it. Evaporation of freon may occur due to the formation of microcracks in the evaporator. This happens often after tearing off any frozen product from the wall along with ice, as well as after strong vibration during prolonged operation of the unit. Another reason for the leakage of freon can be broken tubes that go to the evaporator from the compressor, for example, as a result of moving equipment. It is difficult to independently determine the location of the freon leak, as well as to do it after soldering and gas injection.

If the equipment does not cool, clogged capillaries supplying the refrigerant may also be the cause. In these situations, it is also necessary to seek help from a specialist, since without certain equipment it will not be possible to push the system through.

Video (click to play).

If you have experience with electrical appliances, you can try to repair the refrigerator yourself.