Models of lambda probes are special samples of an oxygen sensor, which is necessary for the correct operation of the electronic system in the fuel combustion chambers. Thanks to this element, the system manages to balance and constantly monitor the percentage ratio between oxygen and gasoline. With the help of a probe, the electronic system constantly corrects the structure of the fuel mixture supplied to the engine, and also warns of destabilization in the engine's working process.
When operating this fragile device in very aggressive environments, it gradually wears out and requires replacement after two years of use. By replacing the lambda probe, you can avoid engine damage. With a periodic check of the lambda probe, you will have a real guarantor of the stable operation of your car.
Table of contents: 1 How does a lambda probe work? 2 Types of lambda probes 3 The main symptoms of a lambda probe malfunction 4 Repair or replace the lambda probe? 5 Stages of repairing a lambda sensor with your own hands 6 Video: how to check a lambda probe?
The main purpose of the sensor is to timely determine the chemical composition of the exhaust gas and determine the level of the percentage of oxygen in it. In order to avoid problems in the operation of the engine, this indicator must be kept in the range of 0.1-0.3%.
Now on the automotive equipment market, you can increasingly find only 2 variations of the device:
All samples of modern lambda probes are mounted in a special exhaust manifold, where the hoses and pipes are connected directly. This positioning of the sensor allows you to get the maximum performance and accuracy of this instrument.
The main task of any lambda probe is to significantly increase the working resources of the car by reducing fuel consumption and increasing the stability of maintaining speed during idle. As a result, this sensor does not give specific values of the parameters of the fuel mixture, but reacts only when the obtained values are destabilized. After detecting a discrepancy with the set parameters, the sensor transmits information to the central unit, which corrects the fuel-air ratio.
Advice: if you have replaced the fuel filter on the Priora or another car, be sure to check the correct operation of the probe. If this part is replaced, the correct operation of the device may be impaired.
Among the signs that make it possible to determine in advance whether the probe is working properly or not, the following are distinguished:
In the event that you find one or more of the indicated reasons for your vehicle, you should consider replacing this device.
Advice: one of the main indicators that the lambda probe is completely out of order is a constant sharp drop in engine power when accelerating.
As well as replacing a fuel pump with a VAZ-2110, so the repair of the lambda sensor should be carried out in a car service. However, in most cases, this spare part is completely replaced, since it simply cannot be repaired further. The problem is the high cost of original sensors from an authorized dealer.
As a result, most motorists decide to switch to using a universal sensor, which is suitable for almost any brand of car and is much cheaper than its native counterparts. In addition, if you want to save money, you can purchase a lambda probe from a showdown. Used sensors are shown there, however they may have an extended warranty period. You can also immediately purchase a full-fledged model of the exhaust manifold, in which the lambda probe is already installed.
If the problem lies only in the presence of a small error in the operation of the sensor, you can quickly repair it yourself. The main signs of a malfunction are associated with its strong pollution during the settling of fuel combustion products. In order to understand whether the tightening of the cylinder head bolts affected the operation of the probe or not, it is enough just to show it to the specialists at the auto center. After experts confirm the fact that the lambda probe you removed is working, you just have to carefully clean it from dust and burnt deposits, and then put it back.
To dismantle the lambda probe, it will be necessary to first warm up its surface to the limit of 60 degrees. Then carefully remove it and additionally take out the protective cap. After that, you can start cleaning with phosphoric acid, which helps to easily cope with any (even the most persistent) combustible deposits.
At the end of the sensor cleaning, it is necessary to soak the spare part. To do this, you can use agents for flushing the engine cooling system or just clean water. At the end of the work, it is imperative to dry the sensor and install it in its proper place.
Tip: at the end of the work, before installation, do not forget to pre-lubricate the threads with a special sealant to ensure a complete tightness of the product.
Volkswagen Passat KR ›Logbook› Replacing the oxygen sensor (Lambda probe). Tell me where to connect the wire from the single-pin lambda, standing in front of the pants.
Dismantling the lambda probe on the Volkswagen Passat B3 is fraught with two difficulties. 1. Little wiggle room. 2. It is hard to unscrew the stuck sensor.
Communities ›Volkswagen Passat B 3› Blog ›whether the passat b 3 RP lambda probe is working correctly. Help with advice, b3 with rp the wire from the lambda hangs, explain if it's not difficult where to connect it, thanks a lot)!
They bury the shit. If cats scratch their souls, it's not just that. I checked with a pointer tester without breaking anything minus to the body plus to the lamba. I myself read that turning off the lambda leads to an increase in consumption.
You have JavaScript disabled. Some functions may not work. Please enable JavaScript to access all functions. Posted July 16 - Lambda probe did not work, I decided to restore it. I bought another, in the end there are wires to the lambda: Sent on July 17 - Sent on July 18 - Well then, help me too.
In theory, it should be without it, but there was a wheelchair with a screwed lambda. I put a new one, soldered the wires, but did not notice the difference in the engine's operation.
Who can tell you how to check the lambda for performance? There were 3 wires from it.Where should they eventually come? Or not to steam, trim and drive on?
A system for IP communities. Board Licensed to: Search Advanced Search in: View new publications Site of the VW Passat B3 fan club St. Petersburg Forums Users Calendar Garage Gallery Awards More. JavaScript is disabled You have JavaScript disabled. We ask you to add all errors noticed on the forum here. Confirm Hide Show Delete Combine Divide Move. Started By satana, Jul 16 Log in to reply to the topic. VW Passat B3, sedan, AAM 1. Just in case, check with a tester, the white ones for heating should ring among themselves, there should be some slight resistance.
In short, according to the scheme: What are the colors of the wiring on your lambda? Three wires - two of them should be for heating, but the black signal should eventually go to the second pin in the ECU block. And how to check if the lambda is working or not?
Why check her new one? Surely it is working, but if in doubt, you can use a switch tester to see how the voltage jumps in the range from volts to two volts, depending on the gas flow. Number of users reading this topic: Board Mobile Help System for IP Communities. I forgot my password. Remember me This is not recommended for shared computers.
VIDEO
Many motorists consider the lambda probe a bourgeois gadget, designed only to tune the engine for a cleaner exhaust. After a failure, the sensor is simply turned off. The ECU of the engine is being rebuilt for new parameters of activity, the car goes as it can.
Used car owners tend to save money on everything. This is especially true for the components without which the machine can do. You can go - then everything is fine.
When a buyer receives a car with a sensor already cut off, he has nothing to compare with. And he doesn't want to waste money.
Oxygen sensor (middle name λ-probe) refers to those unfortunate parts, whose work is better seen in comparison.
The new sensor is enough for 50,000 km. You should think about replacing it if:
• "Floats" idle.
The lambda is directly involved in the preparation of the mixture supplied to the combustion chambers of the piston group. And the quality of the fuel emulsion is not only clean exhaust, but also saving gasoline, smooth engine operation, and dynamic driving.
Dismantling the lambda probe on the Volkswagen Passat B3 is fraught with two difficulties.
1. Little wiggle room.
For easier access to the probe, it is better to remove the engine guard and the muffler front pipe.
It happens that craftsmen unscrew the lambda through the engine compartment. This requires experience, there is a possibility of damage to attachments. After all, you need a power lever in the form of a pipe.
A sensor that was not installed by you and you do not know when is better to change from below, on a lift or overpass.
If after replacing it has served less than the promised period, and the above symptoms appear, then cleaning the carbon deposits can solve the problem. Soot and deposits are removed with phosphoric acid. Of course, the sensor will have to be removed.
Replaced and connected sensor
When returning to place, its threads must be carefully lubricated with graphite grease. It will be easier to turn out next time.
Removed sensor with pre-broken contact
If the probe is to be replaced, then for convenience, you can break the contact part by putting a key on it. Cut the wire. The new sensor is equipped with a contact terminal. After such an upgrade, a cap will remain on the manifold, you can work with it as with a regular bolt. The space will increase, it will be more convenient to put on the spanner key.
In the repair recommendations, it is suggested that before trying to unscrew the stuck sensor, water it abundantly with auxiliary means for a couple of days. Use kerosene, WD-40, vinegar.
You don't have to. Warm up the engine well enough. Next, loosen the thread with a spanner wrench.An additional lever is not required, it has been tested on a car with a lambda probe age over 100,000 km.
You don't need to try to unscrew the sensor right away. Turn the wrench back and forth to loosen more threads. A forceful decision can result in a seat failure.
Having installed and connected a new lambda probe, it remains to warm up the engine, overwrite the memory of the electronic control unit (reset the ECU) and adjust the ignition.
There is a contact connection under the rubber cap. The asterisk indicates the wire connecting the probe to the ECU
Returning to factory parameters will help the engine show its real capabilities, and not a stripped-down version for those who already get away with it.
Lambda probe - replacement for Volkswagen Passat B3 without problems
Almost all Volkswagen Passat B3 cars have lambda probes; only its own sensor is suitable for each engine, for example:
VAG № 051 906 265 E - engine AAM, ABS VAG No. 035 906 265 B - engine RP (one wire)VAG № 030 906 265 K - engine RP, AAM, ADY, AGG, 2E, 9A, ABS, ADR VAG № 030 906 265 - engine PF, PB VAG № 021 906 265 A - engine AAA Many questions related to replacing a lambda probe arise in modern cars. The lambda probe sticks on tightly. Some suggest removing the collector, and knocking on the key with a sledgehammer, and what they just do not offer. There are also reasonable advices, I suggest using them. DO NOT KICK THE KEY WITH A SLEDGEHAMMER. You can destroy the block head, or the manifold. Unpredictable.
1. Drive the car to service
2. Try to do it yourself (oddly enough, there are more guarantees, but free
3. Sell the car
We will consider option two and two main things: how to “wet” the sensor and find a fulcrum. Required tools and accessories:
1. A new suitable sensor with a set of appropriate grease, I put - the original.
2. "Liquid Key", WD-40.
3. An iron key, namely, a CAP (NOT ANNOUNCED!) Of Russian production, so as not to break. Size - 19x22.
4. Iron water pipe 3/4 "1.5m long. (another strong rod of this length is suitable, for example, a crowbar).
5. Sturdy lanyard (I used a tow line).
6. Rags size
Let's get started. It's better to start on Friday after work. When the car has almost cooled down (so that you can safely hold on to the exhaust manifold), generously spray with a liquid key or WD-40 the place where the lambda is screwed in. Then we wrap the sensor with a rag so that it is wrapped around the sensor “nut” close to the manifold. We moisten this winding abundantly with a liquid key or WD-40. Do not spare the liquid. In the morning, repeat this procedure 2-3 times more at an hourly interval. The longer you soak, the more chances of a successful outcome.
300mm). We pass the pipe (scrap) into the loop, rest it with its end on the support bearing cup of the rack, once again check that the key is well on the sensor and slowly lift the other end of the pipe strongly. If the loop stretches a lot, you can make a couple of turns around the pipe.We pull. They tore off the sensor from its place, then turn over the key, repeat the operation until the key goes "by hand". We unscrew the sensor, wipe the threads in the manifold with a rag, screw in a new one, after making sure that there is a special lubricant on the thread. The sensor must be tightened firmly, the force is about 5 kg / m. We connect the contact (s) of the sensor. We put in place a thick hose, a thrust bearing cap, connect the ECU connector, check that everything is tightened, screwed, attached, connected.
If there are any additions or clarifications, please do not hesitate and write "in the comments"
Checking the condition and replacing the oxygen sensor (l-probe)
An l-probe located in the engine exhaust tract monitors the oxygen content in the exhaust stream. Upon contact of molecules O2 with a sensitive element of the probe, the sensor generates an amplitude signal in the range from 0.1 to 0.9 V, depending on the oxygen concentration. Moreover, the value of 0.1 V corresponds to a high content of O2 (lean mixture), and a value of 0.9 V is low (rich mixture). The upstream oxygen sensor provides the PCM with information on the residual O content2 in the exhaust system. The PCM continuously monitors the signal coming from the oxygen sensor, if necessary, issuing commands to adjust the air-fuel mixture by changing the duration of the opening of the injection injectors. The optimal ratio of the components of the combustible mixture, which guarantees the minimum fuel consumption with the most efficient functioning of the catalytic converter, is 14.7 parts of air per 1 part of the fuel, and it is precisely its control module that tries to constantly maintain, focusing on the information coming from the l-probe.
The downstream l-probe does not affect the layout process by the air-fuel mixture control module. By design and principle of operation, the sensor is identical to the top-flow one. By comparing the oxygen content in the sections of the exhaust tract above and below the catalytic converter, the PCM determines the efficiency of the latter. Note: On 1993 and 1994 models. no. only one oxygen sensor (upstream) is used. On models since 1995 there are two upper flow l-probes (one for each of the cylinder banks) and one lower flow one.
It should be noted that the oxygen sensor is capable of generating a signal voltage only when warmed up to normal operating temperature (318 C). While the sensor is in a cold state, the PCM operates in the OPEN CIRCUIT mode, controlling the composition of the air-fuel mixture based on the basic parameters set in it. The correct functioning of the oxygen sensor depends on the fulfillment of a set of certain specific conditions:
a) Electrical parameters: The stability of the low voltage amplitude signal generated by the sensor largely depends on the quality of the contact connections of the l-probe circuit, which should be checked first in case of problems;
In addition to the conditions listed in the previous paragraph, some special precautions must be observed when servicing the l-probe:
a) The oxygen sensor is equipped with a piece of electrical wiring that is permanently installed in it and equipped with a contact plug; attempts to disconnect it can lead to irreversible failure of the probe;
In the event of a malfunction of the functioning of the l-probe or its circuit, the PCM goes into the open-loop mode, ignoring the information coming from the sensors and maintaining the air-fuel mixture at a certain predetermined level, which ensures sufficient engine recoil efficiency.
Oxygen sensors are extremely sensitive to electrical overloads in the circuit. Use fused jumper wires to connect a voltmeter to the l-probe connector. Try to be extremely careful to insert the test leads of the meter to the contact connector on the back side of it (see Chapter Onboard electrical equipment ). Use only digital meters to test sensors.
Performing the procedure described below may result in a malfunction being stored in the OBD memory, which will be highlighted by the "Check engine" warning lamp. After completing the check and appropriate restorative repair, do not forget to clear the system memory (see Section On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System - Operating Principle and Fault Codes ).
1. Locate the sensor electrical connector. On the reverse side of the connector, connect the positive probe of the voltmeter to the terminal of the white wire (see Chapter Onboard electrical equipment ). Ground the negative probe. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. According to the voltmeter readings, determine the value of the sensor signal voltage:
a) The amplitude of the signal generated by the top-flow sensor should be in the range from 100 to 900 mV, actively varying within the specified limits.
2. Check the battery voltage supply to the sensor. Evaluate the quality of the grounding. Disconnect the electrical wiring from the sensor and connect the positive probe of the voltmeter to the green-black (1993 and 1994) / red-black (from 1995) terminal of the connector (see the wiring diagrams at the end of the Chapter Onboard electrical equipment ). Connect the negative wire to the blue / blue-yellow wire terminal. With the ignition on, the device should register a voltage close to the battery voltage.
a) For 1993 and 1994 models. no. - 3.0 ÷ 1000 Ohm;
If the results of the above checks are positive, you should check the wiring for open and short circuit in the section of the circuit between the sensor and the PCM.If no deviations can be detected, the car should be taken to a workshop for a more detailed diagnosis.
1. Unscrewing the l-probe on a cold engine can be extremely difficult due to thermal contraction of the metal of the exhaust manifold / exhaust pipe. To avoid the risk of damage to components, before removing the sensor, warm up the engine for a couple of minutes - try not to burn yourself on the heated surfaces during the procedure:
a) The oxygen sensors are equipped with a pre-wired cable harness with a connector. Damage to this harness will lead to irreversible failure of the sensor, - be careful;
4. Using a special wrench, carefully unscrew the probe from the appropriate section of the exhaust system.
5. Before screwing in the sensor, lubricate its threaded part with anti-seizing sealant.
Message Aleksej 25 » 14.04.2013, 20:14
Message Andrjuha » 14.04.2013, 20:31
Message Bassovski » 15.04.2013, 01:40
Message Aleksej 25 » 16.04.2013, 06:16
the scanner wrote that the lambda is faulty
Message Aleksej 25 » 16.04.2013, 06:18
wires this by itself, but there is some resistance there that the tester should show with a working lambda probe.
Message Bassovski » 16.04.2013, 12:16
Message Andrjuha » 16.04.2013, 13:38
learn to use search engines! you will save a lot of time, and since time is money, so will theirs, and you will find the answer faster. the main thing is not to forget to share the solution to the problem on the forum, so that others can also find the answer. After all, a forum is needed for this and someone should be the first to write) so why not be the first in solving this or that problem you are faced with? in return for which to receive respect and gratitude from those who will also seek a solution to the same problem
1 I just highlighted part of your question and clicked search -. e & ie = UTF-8
Hello! Many motorists are concerned about the question. Does the lambda probe work on my car? How to check its performance on a car on your own? I will answer. Yes you can. And it is not necessary to have a whole diagnostic complex. Everything is much simpler. We need a digital multimeter. The lambda probe (oxygen sensor) has one to four wires.
With one wire (usually black), the lambda goes unheated. With two wires, one wire is signal, the other is for heater.
The same is the case with a lambda probe for three and four wires. Where there are three of them, one wire is signal, and the other two are heaters. Where there are four wires, then there is one signal wire (black), the gray wire is the mass of the lambda, two white ones are the heaters.
Sorted out a little with the wires. On those vehicles where a lambda probe is installed without a heater, it can be supplied with a heater. For this, an additional intermediate relay must be installed. On vehicles with a lambda probe with a heater, the probe must not be installed without a heater.
Using a tester, check for the presence of battery voltage on the power supply chip of the oxygen sensor heater. If there is no voltage, then check the wires going to the relay or to the ignition switch. Also check the connection to the ground of the lambda probe heater.
More useful blog articles checking the idle speed control and checking the coolant temperature sensor.
Let's summarize the verification process.
- With a working and warmed-up oxygen sensor, the voltage at the signal output should change from 0.2 to 1 volt with a frequency of 8-10 times in 10 seconds (1Hz) at an engine speed of 2500 rpm.
- When the throttle valve is suddenly opened, the multimeter should show a voltage of 1 volt.
- When the throttle valve is closed abruptly, show a voltage near zero. This completes the procedure for checking the lambda probe.
With warming up, it stalls at XX and under constant load (fixed position of the gas pedal). In order not to stall, you have to work hard with the gas pedal ..
The readings of the sensors and actuators are within the normal range, the compression is normal.
I tracked the signals from DH, injectors, coils and DTOZh with an oscillator.
I lean towards the nozzle, but I'm not sure if I checked everything.
Very similar to a lambda probe, try disabling
limit switch XX is normal.
I take off the battery for 15 minutes, connect it, start it up.
Somehow I do not fit that such an insignificant change in the injection can have such an effect ..
Lambda at constant 0.45V both during normal operation and glitches ..
Guys, I don't really understand why you attached to the lambda?
firstly, the pressure of 1.4 on monojetronics is a lot. 1.0 + -0.2.
Are you fixing the car there, or making a freebie? if you fix it, then fix it, if it's a freebie, then it should be more visible on the spot, where is something to shaman so that it starts working without the main sensor.
buying a tool does not make you a mechanic, buying a tester - an electrician, buying a scanner - a diagnostician (s)
The client came to solve the problem with the stalling car, and not with the increased consumption.
For proper combustion of the mixture, 4 things are needed:
Everything except the first is excluded. the same injection time, when the car is working and not working , I believe that the readings of the lambda are POH and, accordingly, I am looking for a problem elsewhere.
Today I looked with an oscillation on the sneaker on the floor, when the readings from the TPS and the hall are correct, the injection signal goes until the engine stops. It feels like fuel is running out of fuel, while there is fuel in the rail.
2sh_alexsey: I know how lambda works 🙂
Better tell me will the gas engineer help in analyzing the mixture, when you need to understand the lean mixture or the rich one within 5-7 seconds?
Vozduhoplavetelnaya st. house 13A
Sale of spare parts and muffler repair in St. Petersburg
Catalyst (catalytic converter) - is a metal body (in the form of a "can"), inside covered with a layer of refractory material in the form of numerous honeycombs.
The main symptoms of a malfunctioning of this element are considered: a decrease in engine power and, as a result, the dynamic capabilities of the car; inclusion of the "Check Engine" sign (engine ECU error: "low catalyst efficiency").Possible breakdowns can be a blockage of honeycombs or their melting, or melting or breaking of wires of sensors for fixing the oxygen level. Unfortunately, the catalysts are not repaired in any way, for this reason it is almost always required to remove it from the system and install a blende in its place. It is possible to replace the catalyst, but the high cost of this element repels almost everyone.
Almost all modern electronic engine control systems are equipped with numerous detectors that monitor the composition of the fuel mixture. Oxygen detectors (lambda probes) always function in tandem with a catalyst, while usually two sensors are mounted in the system:
The first one is mounted in front of the "catalyst bank", its task is to change the fuel supply depending on the conditions and send a signal to the engine ECU;
But in high-class car repair shops they figured out how to deceive the engine ECU - we will reflash the engine ECU, excluding the second lambda probe from the circuit. Electronics "considers" that the second detector does not exist in the gas exhaust system, therefore it does not expect any indications from it, and the motor functions as usual. WITH "Trick" (delivered after removing the catalyst) the consumption of the fuel mixture remains the same as before with the catalytic converter.
If the catalyst on a gasoline engine is excluded from the gas exhaust system, the combustion products of the fuel mixture will affect the non-extinguished flame and lead to the failure of parts of the gas exhaust system (resonator, muffler). To increase the service life of the flue gas system, it is imperative to install a flame arrester in it. If there is such a possibility, then you can replace the catalyst with a flame arrester in the same place. If the catalyst is simply thrown out of the system, then the engine ECU will display the error "insufficient catalyst efficiency p0420". To prevent this from happening, either a decoy is installed, or a full-fledged ECU flashing by the engine to work within the framework of "Euro2". The more modern and complex the car is, the more complicated the methods of checking and monitoring the efficiency of the catalyst, therefore, the use of trickery in terms of the significance of the result comes to naught. So, for example, as the performance of the catalyst decreases, the engine ECU can change the composition of the mixture to reduce catalyst wear.
When removing the particulate filter on a diesel engine, it is imperative to disable the use of the particulate filter in the engine ECU programmatically - make changes to the firmware. This makes it possible to further significantly improve the dynamic performance of the motor. The presence in the service station of specialists of the necessary qualifications, modern equipment, as well as firmware from global manufacturers of various brands of cars with the necessary modifications allow us to fully remove the particulate filter on almost any diesel engine.
VIDEO oscript>
evgeny4697 »17 Oct 2018, 10:43
Good day everyone! The check caught fire and the fuel consumption increased by 2-3 liters in the city. Vasya the diagnostician gives errors of lambda probes and 3 of them at once. Please tell me where to dig.
Address 01: Engine Electronics Labels: 06F-906-056-BLR.clb
000067 - Bank 1-probe 3; electric heating circuit
Freeze:
000055 - Bank 1-probe 2; electric heating circuit
Freeze:
000087 - Bank 2-probe 2; electric heating circuit
Video (click to play).
Freeze:
