Ford maverick do it yourself steering rack repair

Hello, to all the happy owners of MET!

(2001 Mazda Tribute 2.0 4WD)

Since there is no such topic yet, I decided to share my experience in repairing the steering rack.

Two years ago there was a troublesome event, namely: it hissed, buzzed, watered. In the pit, it turned out that the left steering rack oil seal ordered “to live long”. Having driven around the masters, I decided that it was cheaper to buy a contract one, there is a friend from the disassembly of such autos. I bought it, put it on and drove off. He took off his own and put it off for a rainy day. After 2 years of happy pokatushek this rainy day has come! This one also began to flow. The flow is not strong, but tired of leaving traces on the asphalt. Because there are no repair kits in the shops, I took my own one, disassembled it, took it out with a hook from the flattened electrode and some sort of “Ford's mother”, an evil gland and went to look. I also looked from where the snot goes in the one installed on the machine, it turned out to be the top one, took it into the load. Picked up, bought, and with a happy face, tk. I became the owner of two Ford oil seals from the steering, namely from the steering rack! (because from dvigla or something else not to go 10 atm should keep), went to the garage. I assembled the old rail in reverse order. Below there will be photos in sequence, the numbers indicate the size of the key.

We jack the car and install it on reliable stands, remove the wheels. With the help of a syringe and a cambric, we pump out the liquid. when the tank is empty, we start the engine and turn the steering wheel back and forth, we are muffled. The return flow rushes into the tank, we pump it out. We do this procedure at least 3 times. The more we merge, the less we pour, this is obvious. We align the steering wheel and fix it with a lock.

Everything, finally, the rail is free and we, from the driver's side, turning and helping from below, pull it out into the window between the subframe and the spar. if it does not pass a little, then we squeeze the stretcher with a mantle. The entire removal procedure takes 30 minutes maximum with smoke breaks and an assessment of the situation an hour.

Repair. In my case, replacing one oil seal. (IF THE REIKA DOESN'T LIFT, not a curve and there is no tangible output on the stock) so as not to pay someone for just that, as if for “a big repair with the replacement of all sealing elements and grinding with boring. ”(DIVORCE.) Money.

By the way, two rails, one tribute, and the other escaping 0.5g. the stem is the same in length, but the stroke is different. The tribute has 11mm more, i.e. by heart and is 101mm.

Py.Sy. I’m glad if someone helps, if it’s wrong, don’t kick too much.

A small report on how I tightened the steering rack.
my car drove 176 pumpkins, there were interference in the suspension six months ago - a lot was replaced (almost everything)), but this did not save you from knocking in the front when driving through irregularities, pits and other road defects. it became clear that this was knocking the rail, and when the steering wheel was moved from side to side, a noticeable characteristic knock was also heard. in general, I decided to repeat the procedure that I had already done on the previous machine - ff2.
at first I tried to crawl up to the coveted place from the side - through the arch of the left front wheel, but it turned out that I had only removed the wheel in vain - there is no way even to see the place where this green nut is located. it became clear that the procedure without a pit (lift) is not feasible.
So here are the tightening tools - a 17 ratchet wrench and a sturdy knife. Ratchet wrench can be bought at auto parts-auchan-lerouamerlen. price from 350 rubles.
You also need lighting - a flashlight or a carrier.

now you can get under the car. you need to look approximately from the place that is under the driver's seat. look forward, between the subframe and the bottom.here is the place you are looking for, already cleared of dirt -

as you can see in the photo - you need to twist the green hexagon, around which the red fixing ring. You do not need to remove anything from the car, unscrew the stretcher or something else - too. you can crawl everywhere, you do not have to be gutta-perky.

there is no need for it, you do not need to attach it back - in the trash.

then take the ratchet wrench and twist it clockwise. here the main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise there will be a very big byaka. it is better to twist it gently, by a quarter of a turn. in this case, you need to go up and check - the knock remained or passed. or the second option is to invite an assistant.
I needed to twist it more than one turn. as soon as there was little resistance on the key, I stopped. the rail no longer knocked.

after sea trials - the knock disappeared altogether, the suspension does not rattle again, elastically works out the pits.

Post has been editedks222: 11 September 2014 - 22:14

Okay, let's figure out the details. If you put pipki, then the grease is inside the rail (on the left
and right) at the end seals. By the location of the pip, it is still worth thinking, estimating
position of the rail in its regular place on the stretcher and the possibility of free access to them.
Now the main thing. The wrench for loosening the nut is done. The dimensions were taken from the technological
lock washer installed in the steering rack on the right side.

Drill bits with a diameter of 4.5 mm are used as pins.

To rotate the key (with a powerful ratchet), a 27mm hexagon is welded.

I tried to install the key on the nut. Fits, fits snugly with no gaps
and backlash. : good:

And here is a complete set of "special-key".

Assembled .

ilya_z5 Mazda Tribute 2005 2.3l AT 2WD -> Ford Escape 2010 2.5l AT 4WD

ilya_z5 Mazda Tribute 2005 2.3l AT 2WD -> Ford Escape 2010 2.5l AT 4WD

Tolyanych: good:
Perfectly in the "hole".
.
Pipki bought these.

I decided to just lubricate the rail (without "innovation"). Lubricated. I drove the rail back and forth,
the grease was squeezed out a little through the sleeve. Everything seems to be normal. It's time to put: yes:
. . . . . . . .
... I installed the rail on the car (we start it on the left, fix it, put on the lines, fix the hoses,
we install the rear support, raise the subframe and at the same time join the steering universal joint, fasten it, put the steering rods on the hubs, fasten it, fill it with oil in the power steering. ready: good :).
By the time it is about 1.5 hours. (And I took it twice as long: blink :.)
Yes, in words, you see how quickly, but try another hour at -5C (third: yes :), in the garage
dubak and by the end of the "shift" there is no more thinking at all. Okay, drove, in the sense of collecting: good:

Here it is necessary to separately outline the process of joining the steering cardan and the rack.
1. From the passenger compartment, unscrew the bolt fastening the kadanchik from the steering shaft (from the steering wheel), disengage. (Key to "10mm")
2. The removed cardan is installed on the spool shaft (steering rack). Fasten it with a Torx 40 bolt.
3. The steering wheel is straight, the rack is in the middle position (flats at 11 o'clock), we engage the steering shaft
and a cardan from the steering rack. We set it coaxially (as at 2 o'clock) and the "click" is set.
4. Raise the subframe with a jack, fasten it (2 bolts at the back and 2 “21mm” nuts at the front)
5. We tighten the upper bolt securing the cardan to the steering shaft (by "10mm")

Well, on "joy" I decided to try. I poured liquid into the hydrach.
True, I didn't put the front wheels, and I think to hell with them,
(. the chica closed, you see, I completely forgot that the car is 4WD), turn on the "drive". O! Blah. And the arrow
speedometer at zero: blink:, what (?) for "heh",. gas,. yeah. and the car was fucking back (.: blink :)
fortunately that it was raised on concrete supports, I thought truncated, "pi *** ts" I will drive into the gate. No comment.
It "rocked" SO (.) That everyone thought. the car really moved (. shit: blush2 :).
fortunately, it was hung out on wide blocks under the spars, but THAT would not be funny 🙁.

In order for the steering mechanism to work for a long time, you must not turn the steering wheel all the way, and even more so in this position, drive in, for example, on a curb when parking. You also need to change the power steering fluid in a timely manner. These are a few, but important points that you should pay attention to in order to steering rack your car was kept in working condition for as long as possible and did not require investments in its repair.

First rail gets into the sink, after which it is completely disassembled, all the main parts (housing, input shaft, torsion bar, output shaft, pressure mechanism, tubes, etc.) undergo a more thorough cleaning and troubleshooting. Worn parts if necessary steering rack change to new ones or are made. The shafts, if tolerances permit, are restored. All seals: oil seals, bushings, etc. must be completely replaced with new ones. After assembly, the steering rack is tested on specialized equipment with deliberately exceeded loads than when operating on a car, and only after that, if all indicators are normal, is put in place.

In the process of repairing the steering rack, it is important to pay attention to the following points:

1. The steering universal joint should work smoothly, without backlash, not bite or wedge. Otherwise, the input shaft oil seal is damaged in the steering rack. As a result, the power steering fluid flows through the upper oil seal.
2. Power steering fluid must be clean, free of impurities. Otherwise, during the operation of the rubbing parts of the mechanisms, the ‘skin’ effect appears, as a result of which the rack and the pump valve become clogged and worked out, and rapid wear of the units occurs. When repairing a steering rack, we always change the fluid.

Everything you want to know about Ford Fusion, but did not know where to ask

# 101 Message timoha-07 »18 Apr 2012, 20:38

# 102 Message fidel1970 »18 Apr 2012, 20:59

The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)

# 103 Message timoha-07 »04 May 2012, 14:57

# 104 Message Excellion »16 May 2012, 14:36

Good day, uv.Forumchane.
Interested in this question, did anyone repair the steering rack?
Problem: on the right side in the direction of the car, if you move the steering rod (lever) up - down, then it walks, in the car when you drive over bumps, it feels like everything will fall off now. Steering rods, both replaced, stabilizer struts, too, tips, ball, support, wheel bearing, okay. the steering rack remains. went to the service said you need to change the bushing in the steering rack.

So I'm interested in:
Maybe some other machine will fit these bushings? (since only 5 oil seals are included in the repair kit from emmetec)
Maybe you can carve it yourself out of a piece of plastic (or what is it made of)?
What does this sleeve look like?
Is it difficult to remove the steering rack? Is it possible to remove it in a garage, without a pit?

Thanks in advance for your help!

ZY Last hope for your forum

# 105 Message timoha-07 »17 June 2012, 19:46

# 106 Message fidel1970 »17 June 2012, 20:10

The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)

# 107 Message timoha-07 »17 June 2012, 20:56

# 108 Message fidel1970 »17 June 2012, 21:40

The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)

# 109 Message timoha-07 »17 June 2012, 21:46

# 110 Message fidel1970 »17 June 2012, 21:53

The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)

# 111 Message timoha-07 »18 June 2012, 13:17

# 112 Message SHA134 »18 June 2012, 23:45

# 113 Message timoha-07 »20 June 2012, 07:06

# 114 Message timoha-07 »20 June 2012, 23:59

• FORD
  • ESCAPE 2001-2018
    • 2.0 16V
    • 3.0 V6 24V
    • MAVERICK 2004-2018
      • 2.0 16V
      • 3.0 V6 24V
      • 2.3 16V
      • MAZDA
        • TRIBUTE (EP) 2004-2008
          • 2.0
          • 2.0 4WD
          • 3.0 V6 24V 4WD
          • 2.3 AWD
          • 3.0 V6 AWD
          Read also:  DIY pearl necklace repair

          The steering rack repair kit with power steering Ford Maverick is a fairly popular product on the auto parts market in Russia. It is used in their work by service station mechanics and ordinary drivers who want to save money on rail repair. The fact is that buying a ready-made RMK is much more profitable than purchasing consumables separately. You can order a steering rack repair kit with power steering Ford Escape at the best price in the Master Service online store, which delivers parcels throughout the country.

          We sell repair kits, which include all the elements necessary for the repair. Many competing companies only include basic oil seals. Our EMMETEC power steering rack repair kits for Ford Escape include only certified products. They meet all the requirements specified in international quality standards.

          Problem: due to the fact that my belt was constantly flying off (this is a separate topic), I had to turn the steering wheel without a power steering, and as soon as I started turning it without a working pump, the power seal of the rack squeezed out. Having driven the car into the garage and fully hanging the front wheels

          Next, we remove the front wheels, remove the steering tip (I shot it like this: unscrew the nut so that it is flush with the finger, then with a sledgehammer one blow and unscrew the nut further, if the finger scrolls, then insert it back with a light blow from above, unscrew the nut and then with a light blow hammer through the spacer, knock out the finger). We unscrew the bolt inside the passenger compartment that secures the steering shaft to the rail. Attention! The wheels must stand straight and you cannot turn the steering wheel in the process, if you knock the steering wheel positions, you will get a torn airbag train! Next, we loosen one bolt on the rail by 18 (I had 2 sets of extension cords, so I easily unscrewed it from under the hood), the second bolt.

          We will unscrew it after we have completely removed the subframe. It is held in place by 4 bolts. With the help of two jacks, we slightly jack up the subframe.

          In order to remove the subframe, you need to tie up the radiators and unscrew the lower cushion (torque limiter. Then, unscrewing all 4 bolts securing the subframe and, gradually lowering it, completely hang it out. Then unscrew the second bolt securing the rail by 18.

          After unscrewing the rail from the subframe, you can remove the tubes that are connected to the rail. To do this, take a torx 40 (sort of) and unscrew one bolt and remove the tubes from the rail, well, we take out the entire rail through the passenger side.

          Then we proceed to parsing the rail. There are not very many pictures here. all hands were very dirty.

          We remove the tie rods using a vice with an aluminum gasket and a gas wrench

          then we made a special wrench for removing the plastic nut

          Here is such a key was made from a key for unscrewing VAZ candles

          then, using a 19 key, unscrew the clamping nut, having memorized its exact position, it cannot be overtightened or not pulled out. Next, remove the rubber gland on top of the rail

          Here you can see the stuffing box and the mark on the shaft at which the rack is in the middle position

          then remove the retaining ring, unscrew the nut and knock out the shaft, then, to remove the rail itself, you need a special key

          Here it is. I did not have it, I unscrewed it with improvised means, so I crumpled the centering washer a little. I had to work with a file

          after unscrewing the centering nut, remove the rail itself

          The rail I took off with two oil seals, so I ran, one oil seal is inserted into the rail housing, the second can be left on the rail and clamped with a centering nut

          Then we change the oil seal there de shaft and collect everything in the reverse sequence, lubricating everything well.

          But these rubber bands were in the set, but they were not needed, they simply have nowhere to put

          Here are two repair kits that were installed on our rails and are 100% suitable: RR-3662 and AG0076.

          Problem: there was a large play in the steering wheel, but as a beginner driver, I did not pay attention to it.
          A year has passed, I stopped at the MOT, the MOT inspector warned me that there was something wrong in the steering, but the wheels were turning.

          It took some time to diagnose the problem. Some "masters" said that the rail was flowing and that it was finished.
          I stop by the service station, there are familiar guys. They looked what and how, and said that there was a backlash in the crosspiece. In ordinary cars there is a cross, but you have something that looks like a cup of some kind, look for it on parsing. The replacement will be from 300,000 bel. rubles to cost, they say there is to work under the car ...
          I came for analysis, explained, but the seller does not understand me in any way, says there is no cup. He sold me the steering gimbal, this is a part that clamps a triangle, in a word, a crosspiece, but Ford's. (I have a car in 1996, that is, most of all, it is a transitional one, it costs this cardan from MONY MK1).

          Pulled up the rail in a Ford Mondeo. Of course, he suffered, but he did it anyway. The annoying knock was gone, everything became quiet, I can't even believe it.

          Here's what we needed for this: a 19-inch head and a piece of piece of iron 12 cm long.

          We take the head by 19, cut off a centimeter from it, but, as I understood later, 1.5 centimeters are needed, since when tightening the adjusting nut is screwed in, and in the future this centimeter is missing

          here from this part I will make the second key, I will only leave 1.5 centimeters, this is in case it rattles again

          We weld the head and strip 12 cm into one piece

          Approximately - like this, then, of course, we grind the protruding ends flush with the head

          After that, you need to bend this key correctly so that it does not touch anything at the time of tightening, I got it approximately like this

          Read also:  DIY cooler repair

          First I made from a thin piece of iron - I bent the corner that I needed, then I bent the second piece of metal along this corner and tied them with electrical tape to make it stiffer

          I pulled up outside the car (from under the hood directly) I need to sweat a lot due to lack of space and inconvenience. He tightened the nut until the knocks disappeared when the steering wheel was swinging in the cabin on the muffled engine. Then he rolled, made sure that the steering wheel returned when exiting the corners. I wanted to tighten it a little more just in case, but then my head stopped reaching the nut, but of course I tightened it up a bit and that's enough, everything became quiet. Turned this nut approximately 1.5 turns clockwise.
          Let's go see what happens next, the rake behaves

          In this topic, I will describe my own replacement of steering rods in a Ford Mondeo and tips with the removal of the steering rack.
          For

          The possibility of repairing the Ford Maverick steering rack can be assessed at our stations at the time of diagnosis. If the steering rack housing is intact (no cracks) and when opened, the shaft will also be intact, then repair of the Ford Maverick steering rack will most likely be possible.

          Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
          Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
          STO on Courage, 748-30-20, from 10 to 20, no days off.

          WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

          Repair of a Ford Maverick steering rack takes 1 to 2 days. There are, of course, exceptions, but quite rarely. If the diagnostics show that the problem is in the rail, and not in the power steering pump, then we remove the rail and repair it at our stations. Also, we can repair the power steering and electric power steering.

          After repairing the rail, you will definitely need to do the wheel alignment. If desired, we can also change the tie rods and steering tips. After installing the handled steering rack, we will flush the steering system and fill the power steering tank with new fluid.

          When to make repairs:
          - a knock appeared in the steering rack;
          - the steering wheel has become tight and turns with difficulty;
          - smudges on the steering rack visible in the parking lot;
          - hum in the power steering;
          - incorrect return of the steering wheel to its original position;
          - when turning the steering wheel, the wheels remain in their original position.

          Work guarantee - 3-6 months

          Diagnostics during repairs with us is free!

          If the car is not in motion, we can send a tow truck.

          The cars that run on our roads require special care. Among the nodes that suffer from poor coverage is the steering rack.

          Dismantling the Ford steering rack is a rather complicated operation, and for its implementation it is important to know the structure of the unit itself.

          This system includes:

          • steering shaft;
          • rack housing;
          • sealant;
          • adjustment nut;
          • power steering tubes;
          • covers (they are also cuffs) with clamps;
          • tie rod with tip and lock nut.

          The rack is attached to the front axle cross member. The connection with the steering is provided by the teeth on the rack, which mesh with the steering shaft gear. Working fluid (most often ATF) is supplied to the tubes from the power steering expansion tank, which is sprayed through a spool.

          Most often, the rake reminds of itself with a knock. There are other signs by which you can identify faults in the steering rack on Ford vehicles. These "signals" appear on the move, and the driver will notice them immediately:

          • A distinct knock on the steering wheel when driving straight sections on a bad road. If you turn the steering wheel all the way, the sound disappears or becomes much quieter;
          • Wheels react poorly to trajectory changes;
          • When exiting a turn, the wheel does not immediately return to the desired position;
          • The steering wheel becomes "heavy", you have to put in more effort. Another (more rare) situation is the spontaneous turning of the steering wheel on the move.
          • Backlash appeared;
          • The drop in the level of the liquid in the amplifier, its outflow.

          

          If the knock of the steering rack in the case of a Ford is not bugged, and it has become more difficult to drive the car, pay attention to the power steering. Its breakdown is visible even at idle (in this mode, the steering wheel barely turns), while at speed everything can be fine. In addition to noise, fluid interruptions can occur - often it foams right in the system, which should not be.

          As we can see, all these symptoms not only create discomfort, but can also threaten safety.

          When they appear, look under the car - a leak in the Ford steering rack means one thing: the repair is overdue.

          Reason number one is well known to everyone. These are the roads that hit the chassis and steering assemblies. Dust, abrasives, dirt damage the covers, rubbing the rubber over time, and this brings the repair closer.

          Typical rack problems are:

          • wear of "sliders" and stem;
          • loose connection of rods and ends;
          • worn out seals. The steering rack oil seal on different Ford models "walks" for a long time with a neat driving style, which cannot be said about an aggressive manner of movement. The same applies to the covers (anthers).
          • because of the same torn covers, the rings on the input shaft and piston are damaged.
          • Debris trapped in the liquid accelerates the wear of the "worm".

          The conditions of car maintenance also play a role. In the cold season, some drivers leave the car for a long time in the cold with the wheel turned out, thereby opening the way for precipitation and dirt to the joints. In well-heated garages, the knots can "rot" - not having time to get off, moisture simply destroys the threads.

          

          An experienced driver takes such moments into account and periodically tightens the locknuts. True, such a measure does not always save, and one cannot do without a bulkhead.

          This requires some skills, it is better to consult a specialist. Repair of a Ford steering rack in St. Petersburg is done by real specialists.

          Read also:  DIY concrete mixer pulley repair

          After finding out the reason and making sure of the need for repairs, we proceed to diagnostics.

          It can be conventionally divided into three stages.

          Even a beginner can handle the first one - this is an inspection of the power steering system (is there any damage to the tubes, what is the level and color of the liquid itself in the expansion tank). All pairs and joints are checked for backlash, especially the "worm" at the junction of the gear with the rack. Ford steering rack tightening can make the task easier if the rods and tips are slightly loose. Before doing this, take a look at the condition of the thread.

          The second stage involves checking the rail that has already been removed. It is clamped in a vice, after which it is inspected for rust, teeth and backlash in the support sleeve.

          The third stage is troubleshooting when the unit is completely disassembled. At this point, it is determined what to do next - buy a steering rack repair kit for Ford or start a complete replacement.

          Working with such a safety-critical assembly requires not only experience, but also a large number of tools. Not everyone has pullers, let alone a lathe. We will put our trust in professionals who specialize in such operations and boast impressive experience. We will consider repairing the steering rack using the example of a Ford fusion.

          Stage 1: dismantling

          • The car is put on the "handbrake".The wheels are set straight, the steering wheel is fixed so that it does not turn;
          • While the machine is on the ground, loosen the wheel nuts;
          • Raising the front end with a jack, do not forget about additional stops;
          • Remove the wheels;
          • Removing the lock nut knocks out the steering tip finger;
          • Using a wrench and a hexagon, disconnect the stabilizer post from the cross member;
          • The ball joint is removed so that it does not interfere with the removal of the cross member;
          • The cardan is removed from the power steering slide valve. Before removing the steering rack on some Ford models, marks are applied to it, although on the Fusion it is fixed in only one position;
          • The rubber "cushion" placed under the exhaust system is neatly removed;
          • The bolt holding the lower transmission support is unscrewed. The manual prescribes to support her body with a jack, while some do without it;
          • Disconnect the tubes from the pump to the rail and put a plug;
          • Now the cross member. Jacks are placed in front of the suspension arms so that they do not break anything when the suspension is lowered. Remove the bolts holding the cross member itself (you need keys for 13, 15 and 19);
          • Remove the rail from the cross member by unscrewing the bolts with the key "13" /

          Stage 2: disassembly

          

          • The rail is removed, we look further. At the service, the replacement of the Ford steering rack oil seals is most often done.
          • Remove the anthers of the steering rods;
          • The accumulated liquid is drained, it will already be darkened;
          • The steering rods are unscrewed with a key, and the rods themselves are unscrewed;
          • The distributor is put at risk so that during assembly it falls into place;
          • Unscrew the adjusting nut holding the stem with the cap head;
          • Remove the spring and its clamp;
          • A ring-shaped stopper is removed from the distributor. Inspecting the hull nearby - replacing Ford steering racks requires attention;
          • Then the spool nut is removed;
          • The distributor is pulled out of the housing. Its oil seal and bearing are also retracted;
          • The stock is removed next. The left oil seal is removed with a puller.

          Then all removed parts are cleaned of streaks, dirt and wear products. The bushing and the oil seal are removed from the inner support. The surface of the stem is ground on a lathe. The same is done with the distributor neck. The old centering sleeve is not suitable - a new part is machined to fit.

          If it was only the oil seals, it remains only to put everything in place and tighten the Ford steering rack. The final chord is checking the camber and toe angles. But there is still assembly to be done.

          Stage 3: assembly

          • Before installing the rod, lubricate its comb;
          • The bearings on the steering gear are lubricated with a special compound and placed in the distributor;
          • The upper bearing is put in place by punching the spacer with a hammer;
          • The stuffing box is also upset, avoiding skewing;
          • When the stopper is fixed, tighten the spool nut;
          • A new portion of the lubricant is put into the weed and the rod clamp is placed;
          • A spring is also installed there and pressed with an adjusting nut;
          • The junction of the rod with the inner support is lubricated, and the support itself is screwed in and fixed;
          • On the assembled rail, rods and new covers are placed, which are fastened with clamps;
          • Before final installation, the assembly is checked at the stand for leakage.

          

          Experienced drivers willingly share their observations. In terms of steering, they usually advise:

          • drive carefully, without "pawing" the steering wheel all the way;
          • periodically check the camber and toe angles;
          • inspect the fluid in the reservoir. If it has darkened, the oil seals or covers are already at the limit. ATP silvery indicates a "tired" pump;
          • in winter, warm up the fluid by turning the steering wheel to the sides several times while the car is idling.

          For specific Ford models, the dismantling and replacement process will be similar. But there are also some peculiarities. For example, the repair of a Ford Mondeo steering rack will differ from model year to year. Now (since 2014) cars of the fifth generation are being produced, and parts from cars of earlier generations will not work.Before buying, look through the catalogs with the numbers of "consumables", or rather consult with the mechanics.

          The popular Transit is used as a distribution vehicle, and these vans have a lot of mileage. If we take into account the condition of our roads, then preventive examinations are mandatory for them, and repairing the steering rack for a Ford transit service is a laborious and rather difficult task.

          

          There are still a lot of Escort hatchbacks on the roads, and the most "fresh" of them is more than 15 years old. A lot of spare parts are offered, although it is sometimes difficult to choose something worthwhile - after all, "used". There are no hydraulic boosters on older versions, which makes maintenance somewhat easier, but such machines also require special maintenance.

          Their owners know that the steering rack for a Ford escort in a "zero" state is a rarity, which is why they try not to speed up the repair with a dashing ride.

          Read also:  Niche under the window in the kitchen DIY repair

          Did you know? Henry Ford is called the "father of unification." Before the launch of the conveyor at his plant, American cars of the same model could differ in their parameters - the difference in tolerances and adjustments was then commonplace.

          We made sure that this unit requires regular maintenance, and saw what a rail repair is.

          

          

          The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.

          All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.

          To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

          • there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
          • increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
          • there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
          • there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
          • power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

          If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

          So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
          First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.

          The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

          • toothed shaft;
          • steering rack support sleeve;
          • spool mechanism.

          Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
          

          1. Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
          2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
          3. Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.

          Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
          How to remove the steering rack.

          1. Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
          2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
          3. Remove the steering rack heat shield.
          4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
          5. Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.

          It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.

          

          1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
          2. Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
          3. Unscrew the lock nut.
          4. Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
          5. Pull out the lower oil seal.
          6. Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
          7. Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
          8. Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
          9. Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.

          Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).

          1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
          2. Place the rail into the housing.
          3. Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
          4. Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
          5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
          6. Place the steering rack in the middle position.
          7. Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
          8. Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
          9. Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
          10. Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.

          Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
          Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.

          If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

          Video (click to play).