Ford maverick steering rack DIY repair

If you want to sign up for a steering rack repair for Ford Maverick, you need to:

1.call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master-inspector;
2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.

How to identify a fault in the steering rack? If you hear a knock in the front suspension of your car, if you feel a play on the steering wheel, if power steering oil leaks, noise occurs when you turn the steering wheel - all these are signs of a malfunction of the steering system.

• In our PEEK Repair Center you can diagnose and repair the Ford Maverick steering rack in the shortest possible time.
• The scope of our services includes the repair of the Ford Maverick power steering, as well as all components associated with the steering rack.
• We offer for sale remanufactured power steering and steering racks for Ford cars.

Before proceeding with the repair of the steering rack, the entire mechanism must be completely disassembled. During the diagnostics, the wizards identify faulty parts, determine the degree of their wear. It is important to find all the slightest mechanical damage in order to maximize the resource of the steering rack.

With severe wear (for example, if the surfaces of the pinion of the toothed shaft have a lot of defects), it may be necessary to completely replace the steering rack. But, in any case, it is possible to answer the question which is more expedient - repair or replacement of the Ford Maverick steering rack only after a thorough diagnosis in our car service center.

Hello, to all the happy owners of MET!

(2001 Mazda Tribute 2.0 4WD)

Since there is no such topic yet, I decided to share my experience in repairing the steering rack.

Two years ago there was a troublesome event, namely: it hissed, buzzed, watered. In the pit, it turned out that the left steering rack oil seal ordered “to live long”. Having driven around the masters, I decided that it was cheaper to buy a contract one, there is a friend from the disassembly of such autos. I bought it, put it on and drove off. He took off his own and put it off for a rainy day. After 2 years of happy pokatushek this rainy day has come! This one also began to flow. The flow is not strong, but tired of leaving traces on the asphalt. Because there are no repair kits in the shops, I took my own one, disassembled it, took it out with a hook from the flattened electrode and some sort of “Ford's mother”, an evil gland and went to look. I also looked from where the snot goes in the one installed on the machine, it turned out to be the top one, took it into the load. Picked up, bought, and with a happy face, tk. I became the owner of two Ford oil seals from the steering, namely from the steering rack! (because from dvigla or something else not to go 10 atm should keep), went to the garage. I assembled the old rail in reverse order. Below there will be photos in sequence, the numbers indicate the size of the key.

We jack the car and install it on reliable stands, remove the wheels. With the help of a syringe and a cambric, we pump out the liquid. when the tank is empty, we start the engine and turn the steering wheel back and forth, we are muffled. The return flow rushes into the tank, we pump it out. We do this procedure at least 3 times. The more we merge, the less we pour, this is obvious. We align the steering wheel and fix it with a lock.

Everything, finally, the rail is free and we, from the driver's side, turning and helping from below, pull it out into the window between the subframe and the spar. if it does not pass a little, then we squeeze the stretcher with a mantle.The entire removal procedure takes 30 minutes maximum with smoke breaks and an assessment of the situation an hour.

Repair. In my case, replacing one oil seal. (IF THE REIKA DOESN'T LIFT, not a curve and there is no tangible output on the stock) so as not to pay someone for just that, as if for “a big repair with the replacement of all sealing elements and grinding with boring. ”(DIVORCE.) Money.

By the way, two rails, one tribute, and the other escaping 0.5g. the stem is the same in length, but the stroke is different. The tribute has 11mm more, i.e. by heart and is 101mm.

Py.Sy. I’m glad if someone helps, if it’s wrong, don’t kick too much.

Okay, let's figure out the details. If you put pipki, then the grease is inside the rail (on the left
and right) at the end seals. By the location of the pip, it is still worth thinking, estimating
position of the rail in its regular place on the stretcher and the possibility of free access to them.
Now the main thing. The wrench for loosening the nut is done. The dimensions were taken from the technological
lock washer installed in the steering rack on the right side.

Drill bits with a diameter of 4.5 mm are used as pins.

To rotate the key (with a powerful ratchet), a 27mm hexagon is welded.

I tried to install the key on the nut. Fits, fits snugly with no gaps
and backlash. : good:

And here is a complete set of "special-key".

Assembled .

ilya_z5 Mazda Tribute 2005 2.3l AT 2WD -> Ford Escape 2010 2.5l AT 4WD

ilya_z5 Mazda Tribute 2005 2.3l AT 2WD -> Ford Escape 2010 2.5l AT 4WD

Tolyanych: good:
Perfectly in the "hole".
.
Pipki bought these.

I decided to just lubricate the rail (without "innovation"). Lubricated. I drove the rail back and forth,
the grease was squeezed out a little through the sleeve. Everything seems to be normal. It's time to put: yes:
. . . . . . . .
... I installed the rail on the car (we start it on the left, fix it, put on the lines, fix the hoses,
we install the rear support, raise the subframe and at the same time join the steering universal joint, fasten it, put the steering rods on the hubs, fasten it, fill it with oil in the power steering. ready: good :).
By the time it is about 1.5 hours. (And I took it twice as long: blink :.)
Yes, in words, you see how quickly, but try another hour at -5C (third: yes :), in the garage
dubak and by the end of the "shift" there is no more thinking at all. Okay, drove, in the sense of collecting: good:

Here it is necessary to separately outline the process of joining the steering cardan and the rack.
1. From the passenger compartment, unscrew the bolt fastening the kadanchik from the steering shaft (from the steering wheel), disengage. (Key to "10mm")
2. The removed cardan is installed on the spool shaft (steering rack). Fasten it with a Torx 40 bolt.
3. The steering wheel is straight, the rack is in the middle position (flats at 11 o'clock), we engage the steering shaft
and a cardan from the steering rack. We set it coaxially (as at 2 o'clock) and the "click" is set.
4. Raise the subframe with a jack, fasten it (2 bolts at the back and 2 “21mm” nuts at the front)
5. We tighten the upper bolt securing the cardan to the steering shaft (by "10mm")

Well, on "joy" I decided to try. I poured liquid into the hydrach.
True, I didn't put the front wheels, and I think to hell with them,
(. the chica closed, you see, I completely forgot that the car is 4WD), turn on the "drive". O! Blah. And the arrow
speedometer at zero: blink:, what (?) for "heh",. gas,. yeah. and the car was fucking back (.: blink :)
fortunately that it was raised on concrete supports, I thought truncated, "pi *** ts" I will drive into the gate. No comment.
It "rocked" SO (.) That everyone thought. the car really moved (. shit: blush2 :).
fortunately, it was hung out on wide blocks under the spars, but THAT would not be funny 🙁.

To postpone this event, do not be lazy, remove the covers of the steering rods, make sure there is no lubricant. and lubricate the rack shaft and tie rod. And replace the clamps with worm gear.

So in the spring I did this, and it was dry there, but a little rusty, and in the fall, closer to winter, such a joy. There are irregularities on the rod near the piston, I sin on them

Post has been editedZIRON: 28 January 2016 - 20:34

I hope the worm shaft has marked in relation to the position of the rack?

I hope the worm shaft has marked in relation to the position of the rack?

I noticed why the current, there is nothing like that that can go astray.

in the grooves of the worm there are holes that open and close the oil supply channels to the left - right section of the rail.

in the grooves of the worm there are holes that open and close the oil supply channels to the left - right section of the rail.

The worm itself has not yet carefully examined, first you need to wash everything, and so in the extreme ditches there are two holes, after 180 degrees, in the central groove through 90 degrees of the hole.

I had a scorpion before Max, I was sorting through the rail, I put the glands on the cortego, the turner did all the secondary plastics, when disassembling the worm I marked it by eye, after installing it on the car, the steering wheel looked towards 30 degrees.I had to loosen the hold-down and put the steering wheel in place.

I will add, the turner turned a new bushing and, if possible, polished the rail stem.

DSC_0067.jpg 43.35K 6 Number of downloads:

Gentlemen, what kind of worm are you talking about? We have a toothed rack with a helical gear. Worm gearboxes were, for example, VAZs, up to 2108.

I answered the person in a language that he could understand.

I translate for those who do not understand

worm - - steering gear shaft

The worm is the drive shaft of the worm gear, which we do not have in the steering mechanism.
It looks like a spiral - this is for those who don’t know, so as not to be taught incorrectly by those who do not understand. 🙂
No offense, because someone will read and talk about the worm, but they will look at him like an idiot and twist his finger at his temple.

I wrote to the author in a language we understand, and he understood me perfectly!

in this thread (as I understand it) there is an exchange of experience in repairing the steering rack and not a competition on the Internet search engines.

So I assembled the rail, now the tests will go, small additions during the assembly: the oil seals on the rails were replaced, and one bearing was also replaced

DSC_0069.jpg 54.57K 4 Number of downloads:, I will also draw your attention to the fact that before removing the rail from the car, we put the wheels straight, take out the ignition key and thus block the steering wheel from turning, in this position the locking bolt on the cardan in the cabin becomes almost horizontal in the lower position, when reassembling I put the shaft with the spool mechanism as in the photo DSC_0068.jpg 54.57K 10 Number of loads:, a small dot on the shaft and tube on the same axis, and the middle of the stem is approximately 77 mm of travel DSC_0072.jpg 48.56K 5 Number of downloads:

To fill the system with liquid, I used the vacuum created by a 160 ml syringe, for this I connected the syringe to the return line, poured the slurry into the tank and slowly began to draw air from the system with a syringe, it turned out quite quickly to fill the system, periodically turned the steering wheel a little to fill the rail, this the operation is more convenient to perform together, one works with a syringe, the other turns the steering wheel.

Post has been editedZIRON: 09 February 2016 - 17:32

ZIRON , You change the nut, or you will tighten the plastic again.

The possibility of repairing the Ford Maverick steering rack can be assessed at our stations at the time of diagnosis. If the steering rack housing is intact (no cracks) and when opened, the shaft will also be intact, then repair of the Ford Maverick steering rack will most likely be possible.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

Repair of a Ford Maverick steering rack takes 1 to 2 days. There are, of course, exceptions, but quite rarely. If the diagnostics show that the problem is in the rail, and not in the power steering pump, then we remove the rail and repair it at our stations. Also, we can repair the power steering and electric power steering.

After repairing the rail, you will definitely need to do a toe-out. If desired, we can also change the tie rods and steering tips. After installing the handled steering rack, we will flush the steering system and fill the power steering tank with new fluid.

When to make repairs:
- a knock appeared in the steering rack;
- the steering wheel has become tight and turns with difficulty;
- smudges on the steering rack visible in the parking lot;
- hum in the power steering;
- incorrect return of the steering wheel to its original position;
- when turning the steering wheel, the wheels remain in their original position.

Work guarantee - 3-6 months

Diagnostics during repairs with us is free!

If the car is not in motion, we can send a tow truck.

In order for the steering mechanism to work for a long time, you must not turn the steering wheel all the way, and even more so in this position, drive in, for example, on a curb when parking. You also need to change the power steering fluid in a timely manner. These are a few, but important points that you should pay attention to in order to steering rack your car was kept in working condition for as long as possible and did not require investments in its repair.

First rail gets into the sink, after which it is completely disassembled, all the main parts (housing, input shaft, torsion bar, output shaft, pressure mechanism, tubes, etc.) undergo a more thorough cleaning and troubleshooting. Worn parts if necessary steering rack change to new ones or are made. The shafts, if tolerances permit, are restored. All seals: oil seals, bushings, etc. must be completely replaced with new ones. After assembly, the steering rack is tested on specialized equipment with deliberately exceeded loads than when operating on a car, and only after that, if all indicators are normal, is put in place.

In the process of repairing the steering rack, it is important to pay attention to the following points:

1. The steering universal joint should work smoothly, without backlash, not bite or wedge. Otherwise, the input shaft oil seal is damaged in the steering rack. As a result, the power steering fluid flows through the upper oil seal.
2. Power steering fluid must be clean, free of impurities. Otherwise, during the operation of the rubbing parts of the mechanisms, the ‘skin’ effect appears, as a result of which the rack and the pump valve become clogged and worked out, and rapid wear of the units occurs. When repairing a steering rack, we always change the fluid.

Repairing a Ford Fusion steering rack is not easy enough, so if you doubt your abilities, you should entrust it to professionals. The main signs of failure of the rack are increased oil consumption and the appearance of a leak in the area of ​​the rack and its anthers. Consider how to independently repair the steering rack for Fusion and what is required for this.

The steering rack is a key element of the car control system - it is it that transfers the force to the steering rods of the wheels, which occurs as a result of the driver's action on the steering wheel.

• The number of the original rail is 1465897 (it fits the 2007 model and others).

The rack is repaired or replaced if a leak is found in the mechanism.

First you need to find a repair kit - namely, oil seals and some consumables. This is a very difficult matter, since the official steering rack of the Ford Fusion 1.4 and 1.6 is not repaired and must be replaced in the event of a breakdown. A new rail is very expensive, and not everyone is ready to fork out that much, especially considering that repairs are still possible.

A complete repair kit should have 9 oil seals, but the remaining 5 practically do not deteriorate and you can touch them.

First you need to remove the rail from the car.

• Before removing the rack, it is advisable to drain the power steering oil.
• Before unscrewing the next element, lubricate it with WD-40.
• In the process, pullers come in handy (for example, for a ball joint).
• It is best to work on a pit or lift.

• The vehicle must be on level ground with the handbrake applied with the wheels facing forward.
• Secure steering wheel and unscrew nuts slightly.
• Raise the front of the vehicle and remove the jack.
• Remove the front wheels.
• Unscrew the steering tip pin nut, knock the pin out of the socket with a hammer.
• Remove the anti-roll bar from the cross member.
• Dismantle the ball.
• From the passenger compartment, dismantle the cardan from the spool (distributor), pre-setting the marks for correct assembly.
• Climbing under the bottom, dismantle the exhaust system suspension cushion using a screwdriver.
• Remove the bolt from the lower transmission support. The motor will need to be lifted slightly by hand or with a jack.
• Support the crossbar with a pair of jacks, placing them directly in front of the levers. Fasteners break off with noticeable force.
• Remove oil from the reservoir by unscrewing its connection at the front on the right.
• Remove the oil supply hose.

In the photo you can see the place where the metal bar that holds the hose is located. Follow the steps below to remove the discharge hose.

• Pull the suspension downwards, giving slack to the hose.
• Dismantle the pressure sensor connected to the discharge hose - to do this, simply open the lock.
• Remove the air filter housing from the engine compartment and remove the 2 fasteners for the delivery hose (they are located behind the valve cover).
• Climb under the car again and lower the suspension.
• Remove the hose from the rail, remove both tubes from the latter.
• Unscrew the fastening bar with a 10 key, then move it.
• Slowly, loosening, take out both pipes.
• Remove the two steering rack bolts that hold it to the cross member, then dismantle the mechanism.

The Ford Fusion steering rack can now be repaired or replaced. In case of replacement, the new rail is installed in place of the old one. You can buy a new rail for a price from 30 to 50 thousand rubles.

• Unscrew the tie rods with a gas wrench towards the front.
• The analysis begins with the spool (distributor). Remove the plastic plug (it will not easily yield, you can use a puller).
• The distributor nut is removed with a 15 mm head.
• Dismantle the clamping fork. Remove the 19 mm nut - the thread of the part will be damaged. Take out the spring and fork.
• Remove the distributor shaft retaining ring and knock down the distributor itself.
• Remove one more oil seal from the distributor cylinder with a hook from the electrode.
• We turn to the end nut - you can use a homemade puller from the head. If the nut does not give way, you can slightly warm up the edge of the rail.
• Using the rod piston, squeeze the oil seal out of the cylinder and remove the rod.
• Lower it to the left side of the rail and knock out the bushing where the oil seal is located. The left gland and bushing pass freely over the cylinder.

After disassembly, you can start replacing the oil seals and reassembling.

• Install the replacement left-hand oil seal on the bushing. Pass them through the saw onto the rod to the cylinder and put them on the rail on the right. Bring it into the landing slot, hammer in with a hammer.
• Seal the right stuffing box with an electrode rod and screw in the end nut, then tighten it to the limit.
• Spool installation: apply lithol to the lower bearing, install the oil seal. Apply lithol to the spool screw and place with a hammer. Put the fastening nut from below. Put the oil seal on top, also sealing it with a rod and put the retaining ring.
• Install the clamping fork, then the spring. Install the compression nut (which has a broken thread - you can replace it, make a thread or weld on a new one in the upper part).
• Screw in the plastic plug.

Assemble the rest of the parts in reverse order. At this, the Repair of the Ford Fusion steering rack can be considered complete, it remains to check whether the mechanism is working correctly and whether the leak has been eliminated. The cost of the work is equal to the cost of consumables - and this is about 2 thousand rubles.

• FORD
  • ESCAPE 2001-2018
    • 2.0 16V
    • 3.0 V6 24V
    • MAVERICK 2004-2018
      • 2.0 16V
      • 3.0 V6 24V
      • 2.3 16V
      • MAZDA
        • TRIBUTE (EP) 2004-2008
          • 2.0
          • 2.0 4WD
          • 3.0 V6 24V 4WD
          • 2.3 AWD
          • 3.0 V6 AWD

          The steering rack repair kit with power steering Ford Maverick is a fairly popular product on the auto parts market in Russia. It is used in their work by service station mechanics and ordinary drivers who want to save money on rail repair. The fact is that buying a ready-made RMK is much more profitable than purchasing consumables separately. You can order a steering rack repair kit with power steering Ford Escape at the best price in the Master Service online store, which delivers parcels throughout the country.

          We sell repair kits, which include all the elements necessary for the repair. Many competing companies only include basic oil seals.Our EMMETEC power steering rack repair kits for Ford Escape include only certified products. They meet all the requirements specified in international quality standards.

          Everything you want to know about Ford Fusion, but did not know where to ask

          # 101 Message timoha-07 »18 Apr 2012, 20:38

          # 102 Message fidel1970 »18 Apr 2012, 20:59

          The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)

          # 103 Message timoha-07 »04 May 2012, 14:57

          # 104 Message Excellion »16 May 2012, 14:36

          Good day, uv.Forumchane.
          Interested in this question, did anyone repair the steering rack?
          Problem: on the right side in the direction of the car, if you move the steering rod (lever) up - down, then it walks, in the car when you drive over bumps, it feels like everything will fall off now. Steering rods, both replaced, stabilizer struts, too, tips, ball, support, wheel bearing, okay. the steering rack remains. went to the service said you need to change the bushing in the steering rack.

          So I'm interested in:
          Maybe some other machine will fit these bushings? (since only 5 oil seals are included in the repair kit from emmetec)
          Maybe you can carve it yourself out of a piece of plastic (or what is it made of)?
          What does this sleeve look like?
          Is it difficult to remove the steering rack? Is it possible to remove it in a garage, without a pit?

          Thanks in advance for your help!

          ZY Last hope for your forum

          # 105 Message timoha-07 »17 June 2012, 19:46

          # 106 Message fidel1970 »17 June 2012, 20:10

          The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)

          # 107 Message timoha-07 »17 June 2012, 20:56

          # 108 Message fidel1970 »17 June 2012, 21:40

          The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)

          # 109 Message timoha-07 »17 June 2012, 21:46

          # 110 Message fidel1970 »17 June 2012, 21:53

          The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)

          # 111 Message timoha-07 »18 June 2012, 13:17

          # 112 Message SHA134 »18 June 2012, 23:45

          # 113 Message timoha-07 »20 June 2012, 07:06

          # 114 Message timoha-07 »20 June 2012, 23:59

          The cars that run on our roads require special care. Among the nodes that suffer from poor coverage is the steering rack.

          Dismantling the Ford steering rack is a rather complicated operation, and for its implementation it is important to know the structure of the unit itself.

          This system includes:

          • steering shaft;
          • rack housing;
          • sealant;
          • adjustment nut;
          • power steering tubes;
          • covers (they are also cuffs) with clamps;
          • tie rod with tip and lock nut.

          The rack is attached to the front axle cross member. The connection with the steering is provided by the teeth on the rack, which mesh with the steering shaft gear. Working fluid (most often ATF) is supplied to the tubes from the power steering expansion tank, which is sprayed through a spool.

          Most often, the rake reminds of itself with a knock. There are other signs by which you can identify faults in the steering rack on Ford vehicles. These "signals" appear on the move, and the driver will notice them immediately:

          • A distinct knock on the steering wheel when driving straight sections on a bad road. If you turn the steering wheel all the way, the sound disappears or becomes much quieter;
          • Wheels react poorly to trajectory changes;
          • When exiting a turn, the wheel does not immediately return to the desired position;
          • The steering wheel becomes "heavy", you have to put in more effort. Another (more rare) situation is the spontaneous turning of the steering wheel on the move.
          • Backlash appeared;
          • The drop in the level of the liquid in the amplifier, its outflow.

          

          If the knock of the steering rack in the case of a Ford is not bugged, and it has become more difficult to drive the car, pay attention to the power steering. Its breakdown is visible even at idle (in this mode, the steering wheel barely turns), while at speed everything can be fine. In addition to noise, fluid interruptions can occur - often it foams right in the system, which should not be.

          As we can see, all these symptoms not only create discomfort, but can also threaten safety.

          When they appear, look under the car - a leak in the Ford steering rack means one thing: the repair is overdue.

          Reason number one is well known to everyone. These are the roads that hit the chassis and steering assemblies.Dust, abrasives, dirt damage the covers, rubbing the rubber over time, and this brings the repair closer.

          Typical rack problems are:

          • wear of "sliders" and stem;
          • loose connection of rods and ends;
          • worn out seals. The steering rack oil seal on different Ford models "walks" for a long time with a neat driving style, which cannot be said about an aggressive manner of movement. The same applies to the covers (anthers).
          • because of the same torn covers, the rings on the input shaft and piston are damaged.
          • Debris trapped in the liquid accelerates the wear of the "worm".

          The conditions of car maintenance also play a role. In the cold season, some drivers leave the car for a long time in the cold with the wheel turned out, thereby opening the way for precipitation and dirt to the joints. In well-heated garages, the knots can "rot" - not having time to get off, moisture simply destroys the threads.

          

          An experienced driver takes such moments into account and periodically tightens the locknuts. True, such a measure does not always save, and one cannot do without a bulkhead.

          This requires some skills, it is better to consult a specialist. Repair of a Ford steering rack in St. Petersburg is done by real specialists.

          After finding out the reason and making sure of the need for repairs, we proceed to diagnostics.

          It can be conventionally divided into three stages.

          Even a beginner can handle the first one - this is an inspection of the power steering system (is there any damage to the tubes, what is the level and color of the liquid itself in the expansion tank). All pairs and joints are checked for backlash, especially the "worm" at the junction of the gear with the rack. Ford steering rack tightening can make the task easier if the rods and tips are slightly loose. Before doing this, take a look at the condition of the thread.

          The second stage involves checking the rail that has already been removed. It is clamped in a vice, after which it is inspected for rust, teeth and backlash in the support sleeve.

          The third stage is troubleshooting when the unit is completely disassembled. At this point, it is determined what to do next - buy a steering rack repair kit for Ford or start a complete replacement.

          Working with such a safety-critical assembly requires not only experience, but also a large number of tools. Not everyone has pullers, let alone a lathe. We will put our trust in professionals who specialize in such operations and boast impressive experience. We will consider repairing the steering rack using the example of a Ford fusion.

          Stage 1: dismantling

          • The car is put on the "handbrake". The wheels are set straight, the steering wheel is fixed so that it does not turn;
          • While the machine is on the ground, loosen the wheel nuts;
          • Raising the front end with a jack, do not forget about additional stops;
          • Remove the wheels;
          • Removing the lock nut knocks out the steering tip finger;
          • Using a wrench and a hexagon, disconnect the stabilizer post from the cross member;
          • The ball joint is removed so that it does not interfere with the removal of the cross member;
          • The cardan is removed from the power steering slide valve. Before removing the steering rack on some Ford models, marks are applied to it, although on the Fusion it is fixed in only one position;
          • The rubber "cushion" placed under the exhaust system is neatly removed;
          • The bolt holding the lower transmission support is unscrewed. The manual prescribes to support her body with a jack, while some do without it;
          • Disconnect the tubes from the pump to the rail and put a plug;
          • Now the cross member. Jacks are placed in front of the suspension arms so that they do not break anything when the suspension is lowered. Remove the bolts holding the cross member itself (you need keys for 13, 15 and 19);
          • Remove the rail from the cross member by unscrewing the bolts with the key "13" /

          Stage 2: disassembly

          

          • The rail is removed, we look further. At the service, the replacement of the Ford steering rack oil seals is most often done.
          • Remove the anthers of the steering rods;
          • The accumulated liquid is drained, it will already be darkened;
          • The steering rods are unscrewed with a key, and the rods themselves are unscrewed;
          • The distributor is put at risk so that during assembly it falls into place;
          • Unscrew the adjusting nut holding the stem with the cap head;
          • Remove the spring and its clamp;
          • A ring-shaped stopper is removed from the distributor. Inspecting the hull nearby - replacing Ford steering racks requires attention;
          • Then the spool nut is removed;
          • The distributor is pulled out of the housing. Its oil seal and bearing are also retracted;
          • The stock is removed next. The left oil seal is removed with a puller.

          Then all removed parts are cleaned of streaks, dirt and wear products. The bushing and the oil seal are removed from the inner support. The surface of the stem is ground on a lathe. The same is done with the distributor neck. The old centering sleeve is not suitable - a new part is machined to fit.

          If it was only the oil seals, it remains only to put everything in place and tighten the Ford steering rack. The final chord is checking the camber and toe angles. But there is still assembly to be done.

          Stage 3: assembly

          • Before installing the rod, lubricate its comb;
          • The bearings on the steering gear are lubricated with a special compound and placed in the distributor;
          • The upper bearing is put in place by punching the spacer with a hammer;
          • The stuffing box is also upset, avoiding skewing;
          • When the stopper is fixed, tighten the spool nut;
          • A new portion of the lubricant is put into the weed and the rod clamp is placed;
          • A spring is also installed there and pressed with an adjusting nut;
          • The junction of the rod with the inner support is lubricated, and the support itself is screwed in and fixed;
          • On the assembled rail, rods and new covers are placed, which are fastened with clamps;
          • Before final installation, the assembly is checked at the stand for leakage.

          

          Experienced drivers willingly share their observations. In terms of steering, they usually advise:

          • drive carefully, without "pawing" the steering wheel all the way;
          • periodically check the camber and toe angles;
          • inspect the fluid in the reservoir. If it has darkened, the oil seals or covers are already at the limit. ATP silvery indicates a "tired" pump;
          • in winter, warm up the fluid by turning the steering wheel to the sides several times while the car is idling.

          For specific Ford models, the dismantling and replacement process will be similar. But there are also some peculiarities. For example, the repair of a Ford Mondeo steering rack will differ from model year to year. Now (since 2014) cars of the fifth generation are being produced, and parts from cars of earlier generations will not work. Before buying, look through the catalogs with the numbers of "consumables", or rather consult with the mechanics.

          The popular Transit is used as a distribution vehicle, and these vans have a lot of mileage. If we take into account the condition of our roads, then preventive examinations are mandatory for them, and repairing the steering rack for a Ford transit service is a laborious and rather difficult task.

          

          There are still a lot of Escort hatchbacks on the roads, and the most "fresh" of them is more than 15 years old. A lot of spare parts are offered, although it is sometimes difficult to choose something worthwhile - after all, "used". There are no hydraulic boosters on older versions, which makes maintenance somewhat easier, but such machines also require special maintenance.

          Their owners know that the steering rack for a Ford escort in a "zero" state is a rarity, which is why they try not to speed up the repair with a dashing ride.

          Did you know? Henry Ford is called the "father of unification." Before the launch of the conveyor at his plant, American cars of the same model could differ in their parameters - the difference in tolerances and adjustments was then commonplace.

          We made sure that this unit requires regular maintenance, and saw what a rail repair is.

          The compact SUV FORD MAVERICK is characterized by excellent stability, ease of handling, spaciousness and maneuverability. All this makes it an indispensable vehicle for families, city trips and travel.

          Are you interested in steering rack repair for Ford Maverick?

          

          The steering system is responsible for maneuverability, handling and driving safety. The steering rack converts the steering force generated by the driver into wheel turns. And, if the rail does not transmit the driver's signal to the wheels clearly or with a delay, there is a high risk of an emergency.

          Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the state of the rail, and if a malfunction is found, contact the REMSTAR repair center.

          The driver can detect a malfunction of the steering rack in FORD MAVERICK vehicles with an engine size of 2.3 and 3.0 by the following signs:

          - the feeling of a "heavy" steering wheel - difficult to rotate in one or both directions,

          - recoil on the steering wheel when pressing the gas pedal,

          - the steering wheel does not return to its place after rotation,

          - there are visible oil leaks,

          - the fluid level in the power steering reservoir decreases noticeably,

          - an extraneous knock is heard, noise from under the front suspension.

          To find out their appearance, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics. Based on the results of the diagnostics, a decision is made on the need to troubleshoot the unit.

          When troubleshooting, parts are inspected for wear and tear. Worn oil seals, bearings, bushings, anthers, rings, seals must be replaced. It may also be necessary to replace the steering rack shaft.

          The rail details are washed, cleaned, dried. The rail is assembled, adjusted and tested on the bench.

          Video (click to play).

          To carry out repair and restoration work on the FORD MAVERICK steering rack, you need to have a modern technical base and a lot of accumulated experience. Turning to the "REMSTAR" masters, you can be sure of the quality, reliability and durability of the post-repair work of the rail.

          

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