Nikon camera DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself nikon camera repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In the first approximation, any digital camera consists of the following main parts and assemblies: Lens and diaphragm, a set of optical converters and mirrors and a digital matrix, a control and data storage unit.

The principle of operation of the camera is well understood from the block diagram in the figure below:

If you look at the picture above, you can clearly see that first the light flux enters the lens, then follows through the diaphragm and shutter, which dose the amount of light that hits the photosensitive elements of the matrix. Each pixel of the matrix transmits information about the intensity of the luminous flux and the light spectrum. Further, this information goes to the analog-to-digital converter. From the ADC output, the digital code through the processing unit is displayed on a digital display or saved to internal or external memory.

Service manuals for digital cameras Casio EX-P600 EX-S1 / M1, EX-S2 / M2, EX-S3, QV-3EX, EX-S770, EX-S770D, QV-100B, QV-100C, QV-4000 and on other models

FUJIFILM FINEPIX 30I, 4800 ZOOM, 4900, 50I, 6800, 6900, etc.

Digital photographic equipment BBK in the selection with manuals you will find information on disassembly, a catalog of spare parts for BBK DP710, DP810, DP830, DP850, DP1050, DP1250, etc.

Detailed service manual for LG LDC-A310 digital camera.

An article on protecting digital cameras during use, and LG GR-DV 4000 description of a malfunction with a DC / DC converter

In addition to collections with service documentation, we analyzed typical malfunctions and ways to eliminate them in Minolta cameras.

JVC GC-QX3U, JVC GC-X1E-S, JVC GC-X3E-DS, JVC GF-500EG, JVC GR-AX200EA, GR-AX210, GR-AX350, AX400EA, AX48EG, AX68EG and many other models

Video (click to play).

Repair of Olympus digital cameras associated with disassembling the camera or replacing the firmware, in order to avoid unnecessary damage, you must start with familiarizing yourself with the necessary service manual and the device for a specific camera model, which you can download from us.

A huge selection of Nikon digital photo service manuals, here is not a complete list of available technical information Nicon Coolpix 700 sm, 800, 885, 950, 3000, 3100, 3500, 4500, 5000, 5200, 7900, 8400, 9000, L1 - L20, P1 -P6000, S1-S550, D40, D50, D60, D70, D80, D200, D300, f1 - f90x, N50, N90

Sigma Nikon AF 70-300mm f4-5.6 D Macro Repair Manual

To make a good repair of your digital camera, you first need to clearly understand the structure of the camera. To begin with, you should understand that any photographic technique is first of all optics, and only then electronics.

Camera device short course of a young repairman: There is a membrane and a shutter inside the lens. The membrane consists of several petals and, when closed, reduces the caliber of the hole through which the light enters the matrix. Due to this, the amount of incident light is miniaturized and excessive illumination of the matrix is prevented when the subject is clearly illuminated.

Next is a photosensitive matrix, the upper shot of which is made of glass. The photosensitive plane of the matrix is located in front of the protective glass. Structurally, it consists of a large number of light-sensitive cells. Light falling on them produces a galvanic charge. After the shooting is completed, the charges that have arisen are transferred to the analog-to-digital converter. This is where digitization comes in. The digitized information is transferred to the RAM. RAM stores information only when it is on. The snapshot is located in RAM for only microseconds. It is also digitally processed - the color rendition, sharpness, saturation and other properties of the image are improved. ... The processed image is transferred to the memory card. Here the digital photo can be stored for a long time.

The main problem that arises with digital flash drives is due to contamination of the contacts. To eliminate this problem, you just need to rinse the contacts with gas alcohol, for example.

If the digicam does not turn on, check that the batteries are connected correctly and their charge level at least with a conventional tester. The current in the batteries should not be less than 1 ampere, at lower values the camera runs the risk of not even turning on

The main microcontroller controls the digital camera... A visual viewfinder is located above the lens. During zooming, the distance between the lens elements changes. If there are no problems with the batteries and the fotik still does not cut in, check if power is supplied to the main microcontroller (processor) if everything is OK, you need to change it. Do not rush to open the camera without having disassembly instructions at hand, otherwise you risk damaging the mounting elements. You can download a large number of service instructions from the site https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3558

The flash unit is located on a separate board with a huge capacitor and a transformer. An LCD monitor is located on the back of the camera.

Some Common Problems and Solutions for Digital Cameras

Defective optical sensor in the lens of a digital camera or video camera: An optocoupler consists of 2 parts - a radiation source (IR LED) and a photodetector (eg photodiode, phototransistor, photothyristor). You can determine the part of the light emitter, as well as the anode and cathode of the LED, using a conventional tester. Accordingly, opposite the light emitter terminals - the photodetector terminals and, as a rule, opposite the light emitter anode terminal - the photodetector anode or collector, opposite the light emitter cathode - the photodetector cathode or emitter. Optocouplers in cameras are used in the zoom lens mechanism. When a voltage is applied to the emitter and an open light flux, the photodetector is open and the voltage at its anode or collector is zero, when the photodetector is closed, the voltage is equal to the power source. If it is not possible to check the optocoupler directly in the camera, the operability can be checked according to the following diagram.

Repair of lenses in digital cameras

A lens in a digital camera is a complex optical-mechanical device that combines elements of precision mechanics and optics. In cameras, it is most at risk of failure. Suffice it to say that about 70% of camera malfunctions are due to lens defect, and in the overwhelming case, the cause of malfunctions is the human factor, i.e. dropped, stepped on, spilled liquid, rough handling, foreign matter entering the lens drive such as sand, etc. In Canon ixus xxx cameras, if a lens malfunction occurs, after turning on the camera, after a while, the message E18 or “lens error” appears on the display, after which the unit turns off ..

I hope it is clear that getting even the smallest grain of sand between the teeth of the lens zoom mechanism drive gear will cause it to jam, and minor mechanical impact will damage the teeth of the same gears or lens pins. in the event of a malfunction in the lens, when the mechanism drive cannot “drive in”. elimination algorithm if all parts are intact, carefully disassemble and clean, if necessary replace the failed parts. Sometimes it is easier to replace the entire lens, as some parts are simply impossible to find

Typical problems arising in the CF connector

Firstly, these are broken connector pins, secondly, they can be bent, and because of this, the memory card cannot be read. The appearance of a malfunction occurs due to improper installation of the flash drive. Symptoms of manifestation can be very diverse, for example: the digicam simply does not turn on, and most likely connector pins are closed, which triggers the protection of the camera.Due to closed contacts, complications can be more dangerous, for example, a voltage converter often crashes. Also, there were often cases when the camera works well without a memory card, but after its installation it does not turn on at all. The reason is also bent contact. The camera works, but does not detect the memory card. Most likely the reason is encrypted in the broken pin of the connector.

Repair of the flash in the camera

Attention, the voltage on the flash storage capacitor is about 300 volts, if handled carelessly, you can not only get an electric shock, but also easily irrevocably ditch the camera. Discharge the flash storage capacitor every time you turn on the power. The capacitor can be discharged through a 1-2kΩ resistor.

A digital camera without a flash is not very useful for work, and it makes no sense to use it in low light conditions. Therefore, the repair of cameras with such a malfunction, as a rule, does not raise questions among users. As for the practical side of the issue: often the repair process is complicated not so much by the lack of components, but by the lack of service documentation. Unfortunately, at present there is very little technical literature devoted to the device of photo flashes, a description of the principles of operation of their electronic circuits, despite the fact that there is great interest in the device of photo flashes and, moreover, in their repair, not only among the owners of cameras, but also , often, at the workers of camera repair shops, especially in the provinces. Let's consider the operation of the flash according to the principle diagram of a film camera in Fig. 1.

The blocking circuit of the flash generator is assembled on the Q303 transistor. At the moment of switching on, the transistor is open with a negative voltage supplied through the resistor R305, the winding of the transformer T301, the open transistor Q304. As a result, a current flows through winding I of the transformer, which induces a pulse of positive polarity in winding II. It turns off transistor Q303. The current in the winding I begins to decrease. The disappearing magnetic field induces a negative polarity pulse in winding II, which again leads to the opening of the transistor.

The process is repeated continuously. Pulses of different polarity induce current in the winding III of the transformer and, rectifying by diode D302, charge capacitors C303 to a voltage of 250 - 280 volts, C302 through resistors R308 R306. When the shutter button is pressed, the sync flash fires. A positive voltage is applied to the control electrode of the SR301 thyristor, opens it and closes the capacitor C302 to the case, causing its discharge and a sharp decrease in the current in the primary winding of the T302 transformer. The disappearing magnetic field induces a high-voltage pulse in the secondary winding, causing gas breakdown in the bulb of the XE301 flash lamp and, as a result, a bright short-term glow

Schematic diagram of the flash of a digital camera from Sony DSC - P52 The same diagram of the blocking generator Q503, T501, rectifier diode D502, storage capacitor C508. The role of the key on the SR301 thyristor is performed by the field-effect transistor Q506, etc.

Who disassembled the first SLR camera in life, it might seem that half a bucket of various screws and screws had been unscrewed. We will not describe each screw in detail. We will omit some aspects of the disassembly, because, trust me, somewhere on the seventieth screw, you will get bored, you will lose interest in the article and we will not get to the most important thing - the inner filling of the camera.

When starting to repair electronic equipment, first of all, you must turn off the power. In case of repairing a DSLR - remove the battery from the camera compartment.

The Nikon D5100 battery type is EN-EL14 Li-ion 7.4 V 1030 mAh, this type of battery is also used in the D3100 SLR camera and Nikon COOLPIX P700 digital camera.

In order to dismantle the rear part of the case, unscrew the screws on the lower part of the camera case, on the right and left sides, in other words, everything that is around the perimeter of the case.

Unforgettable about one hidden screw under the rubber pad (thumb grip), as shown in the photo above.

Carefully dismantle the back of the case. Remember that the back cover is still held by two cables.

First, we lift the connector latch and remove the cable going to the control buttons, then carefully disconnect the display cable from the motherboard, as shown in the photo above.

In the next part we will look at the composition of the Nikon D5100 DSLR mainboard ...

Having been in inquisitive children's hands, my Nikon E5200 camera returned from a summer trip to a health camp seriously “sick”. Diagnosis - broken battery compartment cover latch and battery retaining latch.

The first resuscitation solution that came to mind was to use a bank rubber band for money, which managed to fix the lid in 3 turns. It didn't help much - the rubber band, as it should, strove to jump off at the most inopportune moment. And in our case, this is fraught with not just opening the lid, it is a guaranteed loss of the battery, if you just stick your hand with the camera out the window of a moving car to shoot an interesting scene.

After a couple of happy finds here> a fallen out battery, a "brilliant" solution was born - to call an authorized service. And this can be called the second attempt at resuscitation. The call was successful! The serviceman expressed his readiness to replace any part of the hull, but only together with the hull itself. The very possibility of such a decision made me happy and encouraged.

In the course of further diagnostics of the camera, the service specialist was unexpectedly delighted. Still would! The "run" of the device in three "revolutions" of the frame counter seemed to him significant for this model, and he confidentially advised to buy a new camera. On this positive note, the second resuscitation event ended. But every cloud has a silver lining, because the new camera, purchased for the mother-in-law, unexpectedly did not suit her due to the difficulty of mastering this technique. As a result, she became my property.

It was a pity to throw out this well-deserved device. In some shooting modes, it still surpassed the newfound successor. It is also a pity to give it up to be torn apart in the hands of a colleague of an aircraft modeler. I didn't want to see fragments of a high-tech device in a report from the scene of the next accident. It was decided to fix the battery compartment cover with our own hands. Moreover, for this you can use popular technologies from aircraft modeling.

Armed with old tailor's scissors from my beloved mother-in-law's stocks, a piece of yellow tin, a nail, wire (from a paper clip) and cold-weld glue, I got down to business. First, with a nail, I scribbled on a metal plate something that resembled a pattern of a future part. Then, in violation of all sorts of tolerances with the utmost care (I know from experience that these scissors can pinch the hand with their rings) I cut out about what I wanted.

He worked a little with a file, pliers, inserted a carnation into the homemade loops and riveted it so that it would not fall out. I scratched the cover of the Japanese camera with a file. Morally, it is much easier to bear than cutting out a sunroof in your own car, but still - with regret. He mixed the glue according to the instructions, stuck the parts and left them in a well-ventilated place for a day.

It cannot be said that the children greatly admired the result, but after the explanations that “this is such a steampunk” (the style or subspecies of fiction - translated into an understandable language, but what is this, according to the concepts of young people, I myself vaguely imagine), the people became more kind and sometimes even uses reanimated equipment.

Lens malfunction - this must be the most common failure of digital cameras.Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include“E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problem”) (Kodak), “Lens> error, restart camera” or just “lens error” (almost all camera manufacturers use this option lately). Some cameras may not display anything at all, but only beep, the lens moves in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even extend.

The problem is actually quite common with all digital camera models. Usually it is sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. The camera may have been turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, it was accidentally turned on in the bag). It happens that after extending the lens, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the extended lens. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens malfunctions is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials like to cling to the camera body due to frictional electrostatic charge (especially when the case is soft and fluffy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism and malfunction messages occur. I own a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

For the owner of the camera with this problem, there may be no point in contacting the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not cover this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to shock or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which are covered by the warranty). The cost of repairs is usually close to or more than what the camera actually costs. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a faulty lens for a new one, the cost of which is high as a spare part.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this trouble can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembling the camera, although some can cause other damage if overdone and careless. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty workshop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty, or to determine how much they will charge for paid repairs. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they list an amount that is higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in the order shown. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should be considered only for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repair in which is lower than in the warranty.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and # 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to low battery power when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try locating and selecting “reset” to reset the camera to its original position. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option and thus the parameter may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely discharged while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert it into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as it causes a reset in some models. Error E30 (for old Canon) means that you have no card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio / video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD remains off while the process begins. Thus, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in bridging dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If the AV cable does not correct the lens error on its own, I consider keeping that cable installed on the line when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means of providing extra power to aid in those attempts. But please note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is being extended. Hopefully, while the lens is extending and the AF lens is moving, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a rubber blower to blow out the gaps between the lens cups with compressed air. The idea is to blow out sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other options for blowing out are using a hair dryer in cold mode or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some people use a vacuum cleaner for this.

We are now entering the area of potentially dangerous camera rescue methods. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you actually notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow does not help knock them out, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Take special care not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I do not recommend going too deep around the lens barrel with paper (do not go deeper than 1 cm). I especially do not recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust pad that sits just inside this gap.

Method 6: Hit the rubber USB cover repeatedly with the intention of knocking out any particles that might be obstructing the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report the success of this method.However, there are also some obvious possibilities of damage or displacement of internal components using this method, such as loose cables from connectors, or cracked LCD screens.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this if there is no obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens facing down, try to “gently” tap the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that might interfere with the movement of the lens frames. Try turning the camera on and off at the same time while you are doing this.

Method 7a: Note that this correction method is intended only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops, passing part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens barrel at its most extended position, preventing the lens from returning. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again to prevent it from coming back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to see if the problem has gone away.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just keep in mind that this is absolutely the last method before discarding your camera, and there is obvious potential for further damage to the camera with this method. You may want to consider this technique if the lens is visibly and clearly damaged, bent, or distorted, such as from dropping. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a dislocated shoulder. Try forcing the lens to straighten and snap back into place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will be in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a “click” confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop further efforts at this point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other method.

Variations on Method 7b: Gently pull, rotate, and / or twist the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or align the barrels if they are bent or kinked. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest clearance (note that pushing the lens barrel all the way in is not recommended as it may get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to the "click", which means the pins of the glasses hit the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

The process of obtaining a high-quality photograph initially required a lot of skill and experience. With the invention of digital cameras, a new era began in photography. Anyone can capture a moment in digital format and, if desired, transfer their work to paper or photo frame.

First, the room must be practically sterile. Otherwise, a speck that gets on the matrix or internal lenses of the photo lens will spoil all your photographs.
Secondly, it is desirable to have good illumination of the table surface on which the digital camera will be disassembled. You will be surprised how small screws hold the internal parts of the camera.
The third condition is preliminary disassembly of the digital camera for troubleshooting, as a result of which a large number of small screws of various sizes and the parts of the lens with lenses and a photo matrix are stored in disassembled form until the purchase of the part instead of the faulty one.

The most important thing is to carefully remember the sequence in which you shoot the parts of the digital camera, because you will have to assemble them in the reverse order.
For ease of use, we recommend pre-magnetizing the screwdrivers.
The cost of disassembling and assembling such a camera in a service center is 1500 rubles. If you are a DIY and enjoy exploring the device of a digital camera, then the time and patience you spend will more than pay off with the awareness of the money saved and the experience gained. If you still doubt the availability of patience and proper skill, it is better to contact specialized service centers. To have a camera repaired in a service center means getting a high-quality repair, accompanied by warranty obligations. Indeed, in case of failure, the time and effort spent cannot be compensated for by colorful photographs taken with a refurbished digital camera.

Hello dear community.
The kettle is broken, does not heat the water. I decided to take it apart. I watched videos on YouTube and on the road. It seems nothing complicated. Moreover, he already somehow broke down with me with the same symptom, but everything was quite simple there, the contact that goes to the heating element burned out. So this time too, I thought that it was again a matter of this contact. But no. And it's not even the teapot. And in the stand itself. As I understand.

I am attaching a photo.
On the 5th photo there is a contact that calls with a plug.
At 6 - a contact that does not ring with a plug.

Although the contacts that go to the board both regularly ring. The stand itself glows, the buttons work. Even the temperature is correct.
What could be the problem, tell me, please.
I really want to have some tea at last.
I apologize, I'm not good at this, I will be grateful for the available answers on further diagnostics / treatment.
Thanks!

Kettle model: Polaris pwk 1712cad.

Hello, Monique CTX S762A does not turn on, it looks completely dead, the diode on the panel does not light up. I don’t know where to climb, I ask you for help, I’m a beginner in this matter. I am attaching a photo of the power supply circuit: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2706/i186/1201/2f/ff96cbab816c.jpg.
According to the power supply board No. СТХ11S92-006A, I can say that the large capacitor C2 holds its 300 volts, 1.5 Volts comes to the capacitor C25, these volts go around the board, they are also present on the seventh leg of the regulator's busbars, these 1.5. B, and the rest of the legs are zeros. I really ask smart people to help find this missing voltage and start the monitor

Gentlemen in the know, I need your help with the repair of the blender (philips 700w). This is a great blender that picks up and stops. I barely disassembled it, the DC motor is working, but with the microcircuit this is what: it was burned out before, replaced it, but as soon as I press the on or turbo button, it burns (before 2A 250v). I dropped the engine (blue-brown wires with diodes), it still burns before, the diodes on brown and blue seem to be dead too. I will replace. The question is, can dead diodes lead to burnout? What else could be causing the problem? Attaching photo. Thanks for the advice.

The post is intended for all owners of Nikon D40 with 18-135mm lens. The article warns and warns about a possible malfunction. If the lens strikes a hard surface, it may crackle. If you look at the light, you can see that the diaphragm blades are crumbling.

Repairing such a malfunction in a service center will cost a little less than the cost of a new lens. Those who are faced with the choice of renting out or buying a new one can try to repair the optics on their own.

It is better to get to the optics from the back.

Disassembly begins with unscrewing 3 screws on the bayonet and two on the contact group

Next, the mounting ring is removed along with the diaphragm lever

These are calibration pads. Most likely, back and front focus are regulated by them.

The lens group at the back is secured with three screws at the back.Three screws higher up connect the lenses into a group.

Focus mode switch and focus ring itself.

Unscrew 6 screws on the inner glass.

To remove a further group of lenses, you need a special tool. The group is deep in the lens.

There are many complaints about the auto focus motor. It is believed to be out of order frequently. In fact, it looks very reliable, which cannot be said about the diaphragm unit.

Next, you can remove the boards and the motor. This will not do much, but they will not interfere with further disassembly.

You can make your own wrench to remove the front lens.

A focusing group is visible near the front lens group. To dismantle this group of lenses, you need to loosen, or even better, completely unscrew the two screws on the guide at the rear of the lens. After that, you need to rotate the group counterclockwise and gradually push it forward.

After all these actions, you can get to the diaphragm. The crackle is caused by the small spring that closes the diaphragm. Reinstalling the spring without special skills and tools is problematic. She becomes under the petals. It is impossible to get there without disassembling the diaphragm unit.

If you assemble a lens without a spring, all of its functions, except the ability to close the aperture, are preserved.

And some more photos of the front of the lens.

So, in the name of science, let's see what's inside the brand new Nikon D5100!

This article is not a guide to action! You are solely responsible for collecting and disassembling your device.
Many manufacturers do not assume warranty obligations if the device has been disassembled by the user. If you do not want to void the warranty for your device, check the warranty terms in the documentation or with the device manufacturer.

IFixit loves cameras! We are happy to share our disassembly tips with you. So let's move on to disassembling the D5100 without further ado.