Flash di622 DIY repair

In detail: di622 flashlight DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Vovik 76, either the storage capacitor has lost its capacity, or something is consuming the charge. If something eats, it will smoke, so check the air conditioner.

Thank you for resisting the trance

Vovik 76, I have a number of turns at work, I will write tomorrow. There is an easier option - to install a transformer there from a Canon flash. I delivered from 540EX. The alteration is not difficult and you can even do without rewinding and rewinding.

In the transformer, it closes the “cold” terminal of the high-voltage winding, i.e. the output that goes through the diode to ground. To get there, you have to rewind all the low voltage windings. There is no need to unwind the high voltage winding.

Vovik 76, here the cold lead of the winding (4 leg of the transformer) lies on the turns and connects somewhere.

Windings:
5 → 3 - 18v (30 volts to power the IGBT driver)
2 → 1 - 16v (primary winding)
7 → 4 - 10v (feedback for autogeneration)
6 → 4 - high-voltage winding, I did not count the turns.

Service center "Tech-Profi" offers services for the repair and restoration of flash units in Moscow. We will professionally carry out repairs of any complexity, both studio and external flashes of all well-known brands. Repair of this type of equipment is one of the directions of our workshop.

Extensive experience in servicing photo and video equipment allows our service to give a guarantee for any repaired device.

We repair flashes from manufacturers such as: Canon, Nikon, Sony, Sigma, Yongnuo and others. By contacting us, you will receive quality service and confidence that the repaired flash unit will serve you for many years to come.

The prices indicated in the table are for reference only and are not a public offer. Check the terms and the actual cost of repairs with our specialists by phone +7 (495) 363-78-55

It's no secret that the main working element of the flash is a gas-discharge lamp filled with an inert gas and connected to a storage capacitor. Unfortunately, it doesn't last forever. Its resource has not a small, but at the same time a limited number of operations. Then the lamp burns out. This can be said to be the weakest link in electronic flash.

The engineers of our service center carry out repair work to replace the flash lamp in the shortest possible time. But even this relatively simple manipulation requires skill and care.

Video (click to play).

The most important thing in case of a breakdown is not to try to repair the device yourself. This will greatly facilitate the work of our craftsmen and, most likely, will reduce the final cost of the entire repair.

You should not trust the repair of your flash to dubious services and self-taught masters without proper experience in this area. After unprofessional and poor-quality repairs, the flash can harm the health of its owner. The voltage inside it reaches more than 250V, and you run the risk of feeling them on yourself, receiving a very noticeable electric shock.

In addition to replacing the lamp, your machine may need to rebuild the system board. We will carry out such repairs with high quality and any level of complexity. Flash motherboard repairs are performed at the component level, making the cost of repairs more affordable and cost effective than replacing the entire control board.

In the event that the flash unit has been hit by a fall, we recommend that you bring it to us for diagnostics. Even if no damage is noticed on visual inspection, latent defects may be present. Such prevention does not require much time and money, but it can prevent losses for more significant repairs in the future.After all, the flash is an electrical device from the category of high-precision technology. And any minor damage that is not eliminated in time can lead to a chain of irreversible changes.

Minolta / Sony:

Repair of a clip in a flash leg Nikon SB-800

Canon 430EX. Option with M1.6, M1.7, M1.8 or even M2 screws. A suitable thread is cut into the heel body and the entire leg is tightened with 4 screws, in this case 12 mm long. Since the distance between the screws in width is slightly larger than the input size of the camera shoe, in all cases, the screws should have small cuts, as in the photo: about 1/3 of the diameter and from 2 to 4 mm from the end of the screw.

And another option with bolts. Square washers are visible under the nuts. One corner of the washer is bent down and fused into the plastic of the body. The other corner is bent up, tightly against the nut and counters the nut from untwisting.

Canon Speedlite 550EX. The leg of the flash came off along with part of the body part. We glue a curly metal plate about 0.8 mm thick into the body. We grab the leg with the same screws. But it is better to take slightly longer ones to compensate for the thickness of the plate.

Canon Speedlite 580EX IIrepairing cracks in the body of the leg.
studs are used in size М1.8х20.5 or М1.6х20.5... If there are no nuts for the M1.8 thread, then you can cut this thread in the M1.6 nuts or make such nuts yourself, for example, square, not hexagonal. In order not to damage the plastic of the leg when soldering the wires, we first solder the wires and only after that we start assembling the leg.

Metz 44 AF-4 Nik, similarly: how it was, what was done, how it became:

Metz 48 AF-1 Can

Here's another example of a Metz 58 AF-1 self-repairing leg:

used a piece of getinax and 4 screws M1.6. It would be better, of course, fiberglass, it is less fragile than getinax. It's amazing that a girl fixed her flash in this way. She is a reporter and she needs a flash to work all the time. What can you say here? Well done!

It turned out a little clumsy, but quite workable.

Activist

Group: Member
Posts: 394
Registration: 26.01.2007
From: Novosibirsk, center
User #: 39770

UPDATE from 06/13/2018
Repairing:

FLASHES = for all works Warranty 6 months
I will repair any Flash! from on-camera to studio, Any price range.
I don’t deal with lamps for studio flashes - they can be bought in free retail sale (SibUspekh, Svema-sib, FotoRu, and other lesser-known companies.)

FOR ANY FLASHES! failure is due to:

1 by a sharp temperature drop i.e. lay for a long time in the cold and began to puff on zhoskoy immediately. - the lamp bursts!
2 very long use at critical conditions, the bulb is blown out along its entire length.

CAMERAS = for all works 6 months warranty, provided that there is no corrosion inside
Repair of mirror devices from 2 to 7 days if spare parts are available.
the price is negotiable and specifically hourly 300r / hour with a detailed photo report of what was done.

New service, 500r hour repair live via stream on YouTube. you will be able to observe everything that is happening in our workshop during the repair of your equipment.

Major malfunctions, Does not turn on, and various errors in the shooting process.

Cleaning "matrix" of any size 2000r.

Lenses for DSLRs = for all works Warranty 6 months
Cleaning from liquids and sand.
Has fallen broken does not focus, etc., Restoration of Loops / Replacement with new ones - in lenses, and restoration of plastic parts of lenses, to the actual working condition.
Repair of USM motors on top models from 5 to 10 days.
The price is the same as in the photo section 300r standard 500r live per hour of work. does not include the cost of spare parts diagnostics 300 rubles.

DOING Adjusting the optical axis of lenses with out-of-order settings! BUT NOT KILLED BY RIDGERS - after the crooked masters in the services. The sled must be able to be pulled out correctly.

Any other technically complex equipment, repair, development, manufacturing, prototyping, serialization.

I would like to draw your special attention.
Since I am an electronic engineer, "Specifically, repair" is not my main activity, the terms are individual, but mostly I do it within 1-3 days.

Nuances
For those who hand over for repairs before the meeting, buy / take NEW BATTERIES from a friend and check that the flash / camera behaves stupidly with NEW batteries.

Before checking ZERO CFn on kenons, on nikons, just remove all left superstructures.

1 Does not puff in short pulses, such as 1/32 1/64 1/128 singly
2 does not work in stroboscope mode, for kenon flashes with stroboscope. (puffs to the maximum)
3 turns on the readiness is on but there is no puff during the pilot / test (the lamp is cracked)
4 does not turn on.
5 For drowned people, the sooner the outbreak is repaired, the better
Since you yourself can quickly save the body from Galvanic corrosion, but you need to know how to Discharge the power capacitor, if this is not done in time, then the 200 volt charge remaining in the power capacitor will warp the ignition circuits and subsequently can reach the CPU in the case of Nikons and Kenons 20 minutes is enough for there to be serious consequences of getting water into the flash. Advice if there is a vacuum cleaner nearby, then feel free to put it in the area of the battery compartment and turn it on to the maximum, so you will create a pressure difference and accelerate the evaporation of moisture from the case. for flashes with rubber caps on the unlock button, remove the cap and put the vacuum cleaner there.

This will save you and my time.

From the statistics, there were 5 clients for the year who simply had Dead batteries Eneloop Sanyo GP Camelion Panasonic.

Repair statistics + successful - not repairable - there was a return

On-camera flashes:
Canon:
430-I = 5+
430-II = 10+
580-I = 12+ 4- 2–
580-II = 68+ 5- 9– (3 of which were drowned)
600 = 7+ 1-

Nikon: (mostly lamp replacement)
SB600 18+
SB700 2+ (1 drowned man / 4V stabilizer replacement)
SB800 14+
SB900 6+ * drying cleaning from corrosion (was recessed)
SB910 2+ (1 power glitch)

METZ
58 AF-1 1+ (lamp replacement)

Sigma (canon) 1+ (lamp replacement)

Jungnuo YN-568EX II 1+ lamp replacement

BOWENS gemini 500pro 3+ (2 falling on the floor does not turn on / indication blinks) (1 does not turn on at all)
Falcon Eyes DE-300 1+ (Power Capacitor Replacement) symptoms after a very long rape flash before smoke formation)))
Falcon Eyes DE-200С 2+ (Restoring power and synchronization circuits) the reason is still the same hard rape in the photo school.
Raylab SPRINT RTD-300 4+ (synchronizers are dead)
Raylab SPRINT 2 RTD-500 2+ (burnout of the charge circuit and main relay) after replacement works like a watch.
Elinchrom RX-4 2+ after a voltage surge in the network - both did not turn on

Cameras:
canon 5DM3 display replacement.
canon 5DM2 shutter and display replacement.
canon 5DM2 did not turn on, the second number is the replacement of the screen in pentaprism 2+
canon 5DM2 did not turn on, it was drowned in the river, the battery did not get very strong corrosion. rebuilt with reballing of one processor.
canon 5D did not turn on, 1+
canon 350D drowned man, 1+
canon 550D drowned man, 1+
canon 600D was killed on the rocks in Altai, they just brought a package with spare parts, 1+ glued greased configured - it worked for a little more than a year. the mirror burst as a result.
Nikon D700 shutter replacement 1+
Nikon D700 mirror and shutter cocking gear replacement 1+
Nikon D800 fell from 200 meters, aperture control did not work, installation of a trick instead of a ceramic aperture sensor resistor
Nikon D810 the lens blocking pin is broken off, the lens cannot be removed from the body)))), clever glass removal, restoration of the pin.

IN STOCK
on-camera flash lamps
19 lamps for canon 430 - 580 I and II versions.
6 Nikon SB900 lamps
2 lamps for Nikon SB600

Transistors
46 ORIGINAL RJP5001APP transistors for nikon 600/700/800/900 and for kenon 430/580/600.

Thyristors on coils for the 580 series.

Original spare parts for flashes only on order with a prepayment if they are not available and must be done.
In the analysis there are housing elements and electronics for 580 EX 1

horror movies from the gallery:
dead light bulbs

P1010469_RAW.jpg (48.39 kilobytes) Number of downloads: 45

580-II-e Body dropped

P1010091_copy.jpg (81.07 kilobytes) Number of downloads: 28

Repaired

P1010094_copy.jpg (88.19 kilobytes) Number of downloads: 23

580EX-I grilled chicken

P1010116_copy.jpg (76.88 kilobytes) Number of downloads: 25

Frost and puff test 1: 1 stopped puffing

P1010149_copy.jpg (79.09 kilobytes) Downloads: 23

Dead lamp in metz before renovation

P1010453_RAW.jpg (96.28 kilobytes) Number of downloads: 21

SIGMA FLASH REPAIR

Recently they brought me for repair a good SIGMA EF-500 digital flash, which is battery-powered and attached directly to the synchro-contact (shoe) of a DSLR camera. The problem was that despite the normal operation of the low-voltage digital part, the flash did not occur even when the “test” button was pressed.

Naturally, the thought immediately appears about three possible problems:
-Lack of high voltage 300V on the storage capacitor 1000 microfarads;
-Burned out flash control - which supplies a current pulse to the lamp;
-And a malfunction of the discharge lamp itself.

I did not find a scheme for the repair, but this is not a problem - and so I'll figure out what's what. The voltage on the capacitor turned out to be normal, which was indirectly evidenced by the gradually fading whistle of the six-volt converter transformer from 300V batteries, after turning on the flash. As a powerful key, there is an incomprehensible detail with three legs and the mysterious designation CT40TMH. I did not immediately understand what kind of animal it was, so I began to mold a traditional BT138-600 triac in its place.

Of course, Comrade Osipov from the forum of the same name will laugh while reading these lines, but I did not know then that IRGP transistors with an insulated gate were already installed in flashlights. In general, after the first puff, the triac ordered to live a long time. He assumed that the triac was defective - he put another one. I press “test” - the same story: BT138-600 broke through again, and at the same time pulled a powerful planar pulse diode along with it.

I understand that something abnormal is happening and only then I go online, with the goal of finding a SIGMA EF-500 flash unit or at least its output unit by all means. After a long search, I found on one forum for the repair of cameras and photoelectronics. We look at the diagram of the SIGMA high-voltage unit:

That's right - this is a powerful CT40TMH IGBT IRGP 400V and 200A. I begin to punch through radio stores and shops - wherever there is. Have not even heard of this. It got to the point that I went to St. Petersburg and went on the avenue to a good store of radio components "Mikronika" - but there, too, is a bummer.

I was already thinking of ordering this IRGP transistor in one online store for crazy 20ye, but the idea came up in time to replace it with a G4PC50W. This IRGP transistor is a more powerful analogue, with a maximum voltage of 600V and a current of 200A. And its price, for some reason, is only 5ue.

Since it is twice as large in size, and the contacts did not fit into the holes of the board, I had to twist over this G4PC50W. We cut off the thick leads almost to the root, and solder small pieces of wire in insulation to the remaining 5mm spots. We carefully isolate everything with cambric and electrical tape.

Now we solder the wires, respectively, to the contacts of the gate, collector and emitter. We replace the diode with a powerful cylinder from a switching power supply unit from the 3USCT TV. We turn it on - everything works. For the experiment and technical race, I flashed 50 times in a row - OK! I write down another successful repair to my asset and 20ue to the balance.

The design of the flash unit consists of three main elements - a gas-discharge lamp, a storage capacitor, and a trigger and control device. In an electronic flash, light is emitted by a pulsed discharge lamp filled with an inert gas and equipped with electrodes. A high voltage source is connected to the electrodes of this lamp - a storage capacitor, which stores the energy converted by the lamp into a light pulse.

This is a typical device for any electronic flash unit, and the weakest link here will be this gas discharge lamp. Its resource is several tens of thousands of puffs, after which the lamp burns out.

Of course, for radio amateurs it is not difficult to replace it with a new one, but when you find out the price. So, if I needed to buy a new gas-discharge lamp for an external flash FALCON Eyes SS150, I was unpleasantly surprised by its cost, which lasted a third of a new flash!

If anyone is interested, below is the schematic diagram of the falcon Eyes SS150:

So we will do it in a simple way: we will put the Soviet IFK-120 instead of the native ring lamp. Of course, according to Joules (light energy), it is two times weaker, but you can somehow come to terms with this. Well, it will burn out earlier - and so what? If the price of IFK-120 is about a dollar, you can change them at least every week. But it's better not to scoff at the IFK-120 and set the power mode to half.

So, we disassemble the flash and carefully remove the burnt out lamp. To make sure that it is completely burnt out, and not a breakdown of the electronic part, we measure the voltage of 300V and short-circuit the BT136-600 control triac. There is no flash - still a bad lamp.

Having unsoldered three contacts of this lamp from the ceramic socket, we solder a Soviet IFK-120 lamp to them (through tinned wires). We pre-wrap the glass flask with a half-millimeter bare wire - for better response.

Now it remains to insert a ceramic socket with a domestic lamp into the socket and check the operation - everything is OK! In total, we have savings of several tens of dollars.

Gentlemen, amateur photographers and professionals! I ask for help.
The situation is this: there is a Nissin Di 622 flash unit (like Mark II) for Nikon. Was. The infection broke down, but not completely - i.e. the flash itself works (sometimes, and only on the camera), does not work from the button on the flash itself (test button, Pilot), well, the same button does not show the flash charge (in the sense when it charges for the next puff, the LED is built into the button indicating the readiness of the puff). On the camera, the flash works, but as for me, the time between recharging the puff has increased (I cannot determine, because the charge LED does not work). Yes, when the flash is turned on, all LEDs are on.

Actually the question is - where (to whom) can you turn to for a high-quality and fast enough repair of this device?

Joker J.K. - Is the snowman local? I just rarely go into this topic ..

Actually the question is - where (to whom) can you turn to for a high-quality and fast enough repair of this device?

Symptoms show, most likely, that a powerful capacitor has deteriorated (dried out or broken through). This is if the flash does not get very hot when charging.

a powerful capacitor has deteriorated (dried out or broken through).

HZ as in Chinese, but I have never seen such a thing in branded blimalkas. Yes, changing the kander is still the hemorrhoid with the disassembly of the rotary part, although if there is nothing else to do with such a blimalker, but I am not the case for making Chinese blimalki, I'd rather make a couple of three DSLRs during this time 🙂

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you are replacing this radio element with the same one - it is not yet a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

Whatever service you order, whatever the complexity of the task, you can count on the best performance. excellent quality
— satisfied customers.

Do-it-yourself flash repair is not an easy task, even if you are confident in your abilities, are familiar with electronics and know how to use a soldering iron, this will still not be enough, due to such problems as the lack of spare parts and the difficulty of diagnosing the problem. As a rule, flash units fail after falling, the consequences of which will be expressed in the fact that the camera will not see the flash, there will be no pulse, etc. And if, for example, you noticed that the flash took significantly longer to charge, and the pictures began to turn out to be dark, then this is a symptom that the flash needs repair.

At first glance, the internal filling of the flash, which is simple, requires great responsibility and a competent approach to repair, since, for example, a voltage of up to 330 volts is maintained in its capacitor even when it is off. Therefore, in order to avoid troubles, as well as additional costs in connection with the elimination of the consequences of incompetent repairs, only professionals should be entrusted with the repair of the camera flash. It should be understood that if you do not replace the flash lamp in time, or replace it with a lamp with different parameters, then an expensive transistor may burn out, replacing which will cost a pretty penny. Basically, the breakdowns of flash units are associated with the failure of lamps, transformers, transistors, poor contact, etc. In order to carry out a high-quality repair of the flash, you will need not only special equipment such as a soldering station and special solder, but also the availability of branded spare parts. This must not be forgotten.

The OnService service center offers a full range of flash repair services, ranging from the simplest models to studio flash repairs. Our experienced specialists will carry out a free fault diagnosis and will do everything possible to ensure that our cooperation with you will leave you only the most positive memories. Contact us in any way convenient for you, and our managers will answer all your questions regarding the features of the repair, its cost and the timing of the work.

Our service center repairs flash units of all well-known brands of manufacturers:

repair of flash units Metz
repair of flash units Nissin
Nikon flash repair
Canon flash repair
repair of flash units Sigma
repair of flash units Cullmann
Raylab flash repair
repair of Fujifilm flash units

The photo workshop Remtelevid-service repairs built-in flash units in digital and SLR cameras, Canon, Metz, Nikon, Sigma, Sony external flashes, as well as studio flashes.