Fubag ti 1000 DIY repair

In the summer, a Fubag TI 2600 inverter generator was bought, it worked fine. Recently, after a snowfall, electricity went out, the temperature in the morning was about -6 degrees. The unit started up only after standing in the house, which is written in the instructions. Then they gave electricity, I turned it off, took it to the shed. A few hours later they turned off the light again, it started up immediately, but it worked a little, and the red overload lamp came on. He took it to the house, then it started up again and worked until they gave the light. The temperature was dropping, I brought him to the warm veranda. In the evening, the light was cut off again, it was -16 on the street, the unit started up, but it worked a little at idle speed and again went into overload. At low temperatures, it refuses to give out voltage, what to do, tell me, please?

Start it and let it run for an hour or two with a small load such as a 100W light bulb and check the result. Perhaps, the capacity of the capacitor in the inverter has sat down, in a couple of hours it can be activated and everything will return to normal.

I bought a power plant Fubag BS 1000i, worked 60 hours. The next breakdown, starts up, works, the “green” indicator lights up, everything is fine. I connect the network, a 60W light bulb is working, and 2 phones are charging, I turn on the computer, and immediately the station loses speed, the work indicator lights up “red” - there is no more electricity in the network, the station picks up speed again and after a while it stalls. I cleaned the filter, looked at the carbon deposits on the muffler, the cylinder, everything is fine. So I understand a breakdown somewhere in the generator itself, can anyone come across a similar one, tell me how you can solve the problem without contacting a service center?

Does not pull the load. There are not many reasons for this with 2-stroke engines. The muffler is clogged. Carburetor clogged. And the worst thing is that the compression has dropped. Yes, unfortunately, for these generators, piston wear can occur even after 20-30 hours of operation. Start small. If you have already looked at the muffler and it is in order, then look at the carburetor. Nozzles and openings must be clean. If there is order there, then buy a compressor. Measure the compression. Compression of 8 or more atmospheres is considered normal. It will not be superfluous to glance at the candle. There are cases, albeit rare, that the candle somehow works at low load, but it is worth opening the throttle to full - it starts to be capricious. The factory candle of cheap generators, for good, should be changed immediately after purchase. If the carburetor is clean, the muffler is free of carbon deposits, there is compression and the plug is new, then the engine must pull sharp load surges. Within the limits of its power.

I replaced the spark plug at the Fubag BS 5500 A ES gas station, everything is fine. In general, how often do you change candles on them?

Change the candles upon failure of the previous one; there is no clear time range for replacement. For example, when working on gas, the candle can work as long as you like, until the center electrode simply “runs out”. When working on gasoline, the performance of the candle ranges from several hundred hours to several thousand. 40 hours is extremely short.

Petrol power station Fubag BS 3300 ES. The declared power is 3.0 kW. Purebred Chinese. It is distinguished by the presence of a frequency meter and an hour meter combined with a digital voltmeter. Run in for about 6.5 hours at idle. I decided to check the load. Has cooled down. I checked the candle and oil. Started up, warmed up minutes 3. Connect the active load in the form of a 2.0 kW fan heater. The power plant gave a drawdown of revolutions and gave out 2 kW of tension.I also connected a 1.0 kW electric stove (a total of 3.0 kW for which the power plant was supposedly designed) - the revolutions began to float and the engine stalled! A repetition of the experiment confirmed: the power plant does not pull 3 kW. Manufacturer cheating or my sample defective?

Generators never write active kilowatts, because you need to develop reactive ones, so fast. Here is the sum of those and others and indicate - 3.3 kVA. And kilowatts are usually taken in the amount of 0.7 from kVA. 3.3 * 0.7 = 2.3kW.

How can it be that a 6.5 kW generator does not pull, for example, starting a pellet boiler (total power no more than 600 W with all fans and pumps)? And why the generator does not produce the required 220V (judging by the readings of its voltmeter). Could this be, for example, due to the fact that the engine has not warmed up?

Obvious problems with the alternator, unless of course you forgot to open the air damper after starting. 220 volts no load, this is not normal. If you have no experience with such equipment, it is best to contact the service.

Gasoline generator new Fubag 6600 A ES. Gasoline, 3 phases. Bought in the fall. In winter, it was stored in a warm underground, + 5. When the electricity was cut off, at - 25 I had to start. Started up, but stalled. After a couple of attempts, I found out that the oil was not filled, the automatic system worked. Poured oil, started. Since in the underground the exhaust gases were taken out into the street at - 25. Stalled. Then it wound up for 10 seconds, and then did not start. Summer has come, we are trying to start - not in any. There is a spark on the candle. The candle is normal. They sprayed a couple of cubes of gasoline. Doesn't grasp. Not even cotton. We bought liquid for cleaning the carburetor (on the advice of the service center), but we don't know how to inject it yet. The dampers were opened / closed - no result.

Check the compression - it seems to me that you damaged it by starting it completely without oil. And check the sensor that turns off the motor when the oil level is low.

Fubag BS 6600, 3 phases, 7VA, 5.6kW. Mileage - 120 hours. With a run of 90 hours, the native battery at 14Ah was discharged, a regular car battery at 44Ah was installed. Today I decided to measure the voltage in the battery charging network, the voltage turned out to be 15.7V. What is the reason for this tension?

In the generator, the charging circuit consists of a charging winding and a conventional diode bridge, no stabilizers and controllers. All (well, almost all) branded multimeters show this. For you, the main thing is that the battery is charged and at the same time does not boil, does not warm up during the charging process. See current. The current on your fully charged battery should not exceed 200 milliamps.

Gasoline generator Fubag TI 2000, four-stroke, purchased in 2014, did not work much, only in summer, for a water pump. After winter I started up (manual starter), worked for 1 hour, I turned it off myself. After 30 minutes he started, the generator worked for 5 minutes and stalled. I changed the oil, flushed the entire fuel system (with a tank). Found that there is no spark. Replaced the spark plug There is still no spark. Tell me the reason, please.

On these gas generators, protection is installed, for shutdown at a low oil level, gives a “minus” to the magneto, shunts the ignition winding and, as a result, there is no spark. It is often "buggy". I did it simply, disconnected the wire that goes from it to the magneto. A spark appeared. On some types, this protection is not at all.

The Fubag ti 700 generator has not started for about six months. I took it to nature - I could not start it - it seems to grasp it, but it stalls for a couple of seconds. I didn't have the candle key with me - I couldn't check the candle, but I decided to check the oil in the engine. Double, if not triple, oil level with gasoline. I also noticed that before the trip I filled it completely, and upon arrival, when I pulled it several times, I opened the tank - the level is much lower than the neck. The valve on the tank lid was closed during storage and transportation. Knowledgeable people tell me - can you do something yourself or take it to the service?

Well, at least to begin with, figure out the spark plug, replace it. If wet, watch the carburetor.If the gasoline left the tank, it means that they forgot to close the tap, and the gasoline dripped from the carburetor through the nozzle and maintained the level of the float chamber - it slowly poisoned it from the tank. From the carburetor, gasoline through the slightly open valve into the cylinder, through the locks of the rings along the piston into the crankcase. So drain everything from the crankcase, pour new oil, pour gasoline into the tank, talked about the candle; can be started without suction.

The 2.2 kW Fubag gasoline generator worked fine, stood a little, does not develop speed under load, it gives out a few volts forcibly. You gas up - it gives out 220 watts. What is the reason? The oil is changed.

The gas draft is wedged, or the regulator is jammed. On a muffled engine, move the gas thrust - it should go without jamming. When you gas up and get 220V, measure the AC frequency or engine speed. If the frequency is 55Hz or higher, then the problem is not with the engine. If it honestly keeps the speed around 50Hz (3000 rpm), then deal with the alternator malfunction.

Generator BS 6600 ES. Single phase. With AVR. Rated 5.7kW. Petrol. Starting: electric starter and cord. Battery. Problem: For a long period (8-10 hours), it worked under a load of approximately 5 kW (2 oil, 2 each plus 4 15W bulbs, TV, receiver, laptop), after which it did not start for a month. THAT was carried out immediately after the stop. At start-up (-15 degrees) 6 ml was added to the cylinder. warm gasoline. It started smoothly. Warm up for 3-4 minutes. When the load was applied, the control lamp immediately exploded in the room where the generator is located. Measured the output voltage. 356 Volts instead of the usual 230. He took off the cover. I measured the voltage at the output of the generator. The same 356 volts. Moreover, if you measure the device through yourself, one end gives 130 volts, the other - 40.

He could not stand it, either a marriage, or they jammed it with a connected load. Check the winding to ground, at least from a 220V outlet through the lamp from the refrigerator. Disconnect the winding from everything, purely conclusions from the case.

The BS 3300 ES petrol generator does not supply 220V. Today I bought an AVR, put it on, but alas, there are no results. Then we put this AVR on another generator with the same problem, and similarly did not give out 220V. The engine runs flawlessly.

In my opinion, the simple conclusion is that AVR is either faulty or not suitable in terms of parameters. Change to another.

The new Fubag BS 1000i does not start well when cold. I measured the compression - 2-3 at the most. With oil 5-8. The end of the rings? Are they generally in spare parts? The engine there seems to be like 154, 3 power is written, an enlarged copy of the GM82 engine.

Remove the valve cover, loosen the exhaust valve adjusting screw so that the clearance becomes more than a millimeter (or even reset the rocker arm altogether so that the valve does not work). Now he will show what should be. In general, I have heard complaints about these motors that they do not start well “on cold”, but somehow I haven’t tried it myself. And then - "cold", it all happens. And from +20 we start, and from - 20 - everything is “cold”. If the winter (-15 / -20 degrees) start is difficult, this is normal for such motors, you need to adapt to it. Perhaps, pull it 5 - 6 times with the ignition off, perhaps in severe frost, you will even have to inject two or three cubes of gasoline from a syringe under the air filter. I have a little idea to improve the cold start, but until I run dozens of them on two motors, I will not tell you. If cold starts poorly at room temperature, then yes - you need to figure it out.

Inverter generator Fubag TI 1000. In START mode it works, when the lever is switched to RUN mode, it stalls after 5 seconds. As I understand it, you need to look at the carburetor, tell me how to fix it, what where to look?

Check gasoline from gas tank to carburetor. The blockage is obvious.

Gasoline generators, even if they are made in China, very reliable with proper care... Nevertheless, during their operation, small problems can arise that can usually be quickly fixed with your own hands.Serious breakdowns with the knowledge of the owner of the device and the principle of operation of the generator will also not be able to disable it for a long time.

If you arrange possible malfunctions of the gas generator in a kind of rating, you get the following list:

• Failure or contamination of the spark plug: difficult or impossible starting, unstable operation.
• Clogged carburetor: difficult starting, excessive fuel consumption, unstable operation under constant load.
• Failure of the ignition coil: no spark, inability to start.
• Starter breakdowns: breakage, biting of the cable, destruction of the ratchet.
• Violation of valve clearances: difficult starting, increased noise during operation.
• Wear of brushes (on synchronous generators) - lack of output voltage.
• Speed ​​governor malfunction: floating engine speed, dips when changing the load.
• Wear of the bearings of the crankshaft and the rotor of the generator - an increase in operating noise, oil leakage.
• Wear of the cylinder, piston rings - difficult starting of a cold engine, excessive oil consumption.

It does not take into account breakdowns that result from a gross violation of the rules for operating the generator: for example, seizures on the crankshaft neck due to insufficient oil level, burnout of the generator windings or voltage converter (on inverter gas generators) with frequent overloads.

In fact, malfunctions of a gasoline generator can be divided into three groups: mechanical, electrical and fuel / ignition system malfunctions.

Difficulty starting the generator, which manifested itself suddenly and not accompanied by an increase in engine noise, is a clear sign of either deviations in the operation of the carburetor (too lean or rich mixture), or a faulty ignition system (weak or intermittent spark formation). Since the diagnostics of the state of these systems is interconnected, it is combined into one section.

Remove the spark plug and inspect the carbon deposits on the electrodes.

• Dense and dry black carbon deposits - a sign of a rich mixture (the carburetor is faulty, the air filter is clogged);
• Oily black carbon - a sign of severe wear of the piston rings, oil enters the combustion chamber;
• White soot - a sign of running on a lean mixture, it is necessary to check the carburetor.
• Brick brown carbon deposits - normal for carburetor engines.
• Red, green-red carbon deposits - a consequence of working on low-quality fuel.

It is simple to check the performance of the ignition system itself because of its extreme simplicity: turn on the ignition, insert a known good spark plug into the plug cap and, putting it on the nearest metal part of the engine with its skirt, turn the recoil starter abruptly. If there is no spark, disconnect the ignition switch and the oil level sensor from the ignition coil in turn: if, when both elements are disconnected, there is still no spark, replace the ignition coil.

If the spark is present and has sufficient strength (white or blue-white), remove the spark plug after several starting attempts. A candle filled with gasoline is a sign of an over-enrichment of the mixture, a dry one is a lack of fuel.

Sometimes, after long storage, the carburetor needle and float stick and prevent gasoline from flowing inside. Several times sharply, but do not hit the float chamber lid very hard and start again.

The most common carburetor malfunction is contamination. The ingress of dirt into the air channels leads to over-enrichment of the mixture, into the fuel jets - to depletion. Dirt on the float shut-off needle leads to loss of tightness and overfilling of the float chamber, which will be immediately noticeable by the leakage of fuel from the carburetor.

Let's take a look at the carburetor maintenance using the example of a Honda GX engine installed - its design is typical of a gasoline generator.

• Remove the float chamber cover (4). Wash it in gasoline or a carburetor spray cleaner - dirt and deposits accumulate at the bottom.
• Proceed in the same way with the gas valve sump (22).
• Check if the gas valve is blown in the "open" position.
• Take out the float shaft (3), take out the float and the shut-off needle (2). Blow out the channel with air.
• Blow out the fuel jet (25), emulsion tube (11) and all carburetor passages with an aerosol cleaner or compressed air.
• Remove the adjusting screw (5), blow out its channel. Then screw it in until it stops and loosen, depending on the type of air filter, by 2 (foam, paper filters) - 2.5 turns (cyclone filters).
• Assemble the carburetor.

The electrical system of gas generators is quite reliable. Most often, you can face two problems: lack of battery charging on generators with electric start or lack of voltage at the generator output.

• The lack of battery charging is a consequence of the failure of the rectifier or low-voltage winding. It is easy to check this system with your own hands: connect a 12-volt light bulb in parallel with the low-voltage winding of the generator and start it. A lit light means that the generator itself is working properly, and it is necessary to replace the rectifier.
• The absence of voltage at the generator output is most often the result of wear on the brushes. Remove them and assess the degree of wear, replace if necessary. If your generator is an inverter type, check if the voltage comes to the input of the converter by connecting a low-power 220 V lamp in parallel with it.

Video about the step-by-step repair of the gas generator

One of the routine maintenance provided by the instruction manual for gas generators is the control and adjustment, if necessary, of the valve mechanism clearances. An increase in clearances above the norm will lead to a decrease in engine power, an increase in noise during operation. The most dangerous is a decrease in the gap, since it is not audible during operation, but the pinched valves, especially the exhaust, begin to burn rapidly. As a result, the engine starts to work unstably and, when the plate is burned out, it stops starting.

Valve Adjustment Procedure pretty simple:

1. Remove all components that interfere with the removal of the engine valve cover.
2. Remove the spark plug.
3. Remove the valve cover.
4. Set the crankshaft to top dead center of the compression stroke by the mark on the flywheel (if any) or by controlling the movement of the piston through the spark plug hole. Do not confuse compression TDC (both valves are closed) with TDC issue (the outlet valve closes, the inlet valve opens).
5. Loosen the locknuts of the adjusting screws and, using a flat feeler inserted between the rocker arm and the end of the valve, set the clearances by turning the screw. Typically, a clearance of 0.2 mm is adopted for the outlet valve, and 0.15 for the inlet valve (check in the operating instructions).
6. Tighten the locknuts and turn the crankshaft twice to TDC. If everything is done correctly, at the next dead center both gaps will go away, after another turn they will take the set value. Increased gaps after the first revolution are a sign that they were adjusted at TDC of the exhaust stroke.
7. Assemble the generator.

Manual starter malfunctions - perhaps the most common mechanical problem... Either the cable breaks, or the starter refuses to rewind it due to a broken return spring, or the ratchet does not turn the crankshaft.

Remove the starter by unscrewing the bolts around its casing. By unscrewing the screw (1), the ratchet can be removed. Check its cams (4) and return springs (5). Then carefully remove the pulley with the spring (7). Replace a broken cable or broken spring, whichever caused the repair.

When reassembling the starter, care must be taken to ensure that the spring remains in engagement with the shroud and pulley during installation. The cable must be fully wound around the pulley. With the ratchet in place, check the cable travel and how the starter returns to its original position.

Review and repair of the Einhell STE800 gas generator