When using low-quality oil or long intervals between its changes, a significant decrease in the total engine mileage is possible. In this case, the owner of the vehicle may not be saved by the overhaul, because, if necessary, the piston group will need to be changed. This is not to say that the Nissan ga16de is an oil burner, but if used improperly, oil consumption can really increase, which will lead to serious consequences for the car.
For long-term operation of the Nissan ga16de engine, it is important to follow a number of simple rules that are necessary for the engine to work not only appropriately, but also safely.
Nissan ga16de is designed for measured driving in one mode or another, therefore, subject to the general rules of operation, the engine will serve for a long time and correctly.
But, oddly enough, the ga16de internal combustion engine also has negative sides:
Such disadvantages cannot be considered serious, but they do exist.
There are many companies that can test the distributor as well as the generator. Experienced craftsmen analyze as well as check the starter. There is not always experience, as well as the ability to check the engine with your own hands, so it is important to contact experienced craftsmen who can professionally replace or repair such units:
It is very important to check the breather, with which the pressure is equalized.
In order to use oil with the recommended viscosity, it is worth using the following fluid options:
The volume is 3.2 liters, and it is recommended to change the oil earlier than after 15,000 runs.
The contract engine is installed very conveniently - transversely in the front of the body, so changing the oil will not cause any inconvenience.
The engine does not differ in particular difficulties, therefore, problems of a minor nature can be solved independently, taking into account certain subtleties:
In the absence of skills, you should not carry out repairs on your own, because even with the smallest actions, you can harm the car.
In one case or another, if you need to replace a kit or a separate part in a car, you can always find photos on the Internet pages that describe all the stages of the process.
Each car model, in a certain year of production, was distinguished by good performance indicators, unpretentiousness. Depending on the power of the vehicle, the engine performed its functions 100 percent, as a result of which it confirmed the expectations of car owners and motorists.
The motor is durable, has no "chronic diseases", except for problem situations of a periodic nature. When using good fuel, as well as oil, with regular maintenance, you can most confidently eliminate all risks from possible problems that happen with such units.
At the end of 1990, the most famous model, the GA16DE, was released, with a DOHC head, 16 valves and multipoint injection. The first version of GA16DE was equipped with a variable valve timing system on the intake camshaft NVCS and had a power of 110 hp, later, in 1995, the engine received different camshafts and a modified intake, which gave an additional 5 hp. The Euro version was not equipped with the NVCS system and developed 102 hp.
In the same year, the GA16DS was launched, equipped with a 16-valve cylinder head and a carburetor.
This engine was in production until 1999, after which it was replaced by QG16DE, on Nissan models for Mexico and South Africa, GA16 was installed until 2011.
The GA series motors are extremely reliable and durable, they do not have any common diseases, with the exception of periodic problems with KXX and DFID. The resource of the engine without overhaul is 300 thousand km or more (depending on the operation). Using good oil, gasoline and monitoring the condition of your GA16, you can protect yourself as much as possible from possible problems. It should also be understood that cars with this engine are old enough to travel 300-400-500 thousand km and, having bought such a car, will you be able to enjoy trouble-free operation.
Generally speaking, tweaking an old 1.6L engine is not a great idea, but if you really want to, then you can buy an SR20 throttle body and a cold intake. Then you need to buy a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold, 51mm exhaust system, JWT brains, do cylinder head porting. The head is best used after 95, with initially different channels and more aggressive camshafts. You can mill the head by 2 mm, thereby raising the compression ratio to 11-11.3. As camshafts, you can use standard, or tuning with a phase of 263-272. After tuning, you will get about 140-150 hp. and spend a fair amount of money. It's cheaper to sell your car and buy a much faster and more modern one.
from Wolf »15 Jun 2012, 09:55
P.S. : Many thanks to our Vitaly from the club service station Kiev, for the valve and advice, and to the teammate Serega from Odessa for useful tips.
from Berk »15 June 2012, 10:21
from Wolf »15 June 2012, 10:42
from NICK »15 June 2012, 12:18
from Wolf »15 June 2012, 14:10
from woter »15 June 2012, 16:56
from romanovich2008 »16 June 2012, 10:37
from Wolf »18 Jun 2012, 08:26
Believe Roma, this gasket, in my case, was the MAIN reason for the oil consumption!
Thank you again, Seryoga, - mutually!
from Trinity 06 Jul 2012, 23:08
And where did you find the expression “such a thing” in that post of mine? Or was it about me?
These are all lyrics, and most importantly - that my advice helped :)
Added after 3 minutes 43 seconds:
As far as I know, this small gasket is the problem due to which, in the description of Almer, you always hear “eating butter”. In Russia, this problem has long been gone, tk. they know about this gasket.
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message trastssc »25 Sep 2010, 20:42
Message Slem »26 Sep 2010, 23:10
Message trastssc »27 Sep 2010, 07:52
Message Yuri_N »27 Sep 2010, 15:31
Message Slem »27 Sep 2010, 22:10
Message Yuri_N »28 Sep 2010, 08:29
Message Slem »28 Sep 2010, 09:48
Message Yuri_N »28 Sep 2010, 15:31
Message trastssc »28 Sep 2010, 20:23
Message Slem »28 Sep 2010, 21:21
Message trastssc »28 Sep 2010, 21:30
Message Slem »29 Sep 2010, 08:24
Message trastssc »30 Sep 2010, 21:05
Message Slem »30 Sep 2010, 23:06
At the end of 1990, the most famous model, the GA16DE, was released, with a DOHC head, 16 valves and multipoint injection.The first version of GA16DE was equipped with a variable valve timing system on the intake camshaft NVCS and had a power of 110 hp, later, in 1995, the engine received different camshafts and a modified intake, which gave an additional 5 hp. The Euro version was not equipped with the NVCS system and developed 102 hp.
In the same year, the GA16DS was launched, equipped with a 16-valve cylinder head and a carburetor.
This engine was in production until 1999, after which it was replaced by QG16DE, on Nissan models for Mexico and South Africa, GA16 was installed until 2011.
The GA series motors are extremely reliable and durable, they do not have any common diseases, with the exception of periodic problems with KXX and DFID. The resource of the engine without overhaul is 300 thousand km or more (depending on the operation). Using good oil, gasoline and monitoring the condition of your GA16, you can protect yourself as much as possible from possible problems. It should also be understood that cars with this engine are old enough to travel 300-400-500 thousand km and, having bought such a car, will you be able to enjoy trouble-free operation.
Generally speaking, tweaking an old 1.6L engine is not a great idea, but if you really want to, then you can buy an SR20 throttle body and a cold intake. Then you need to buy a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold, 51mm exhaust system, JWT brains, do cylinder head porting. The head is best used after 95, with initially different channels and more aggressive camshafts. You can mill the head by 2 mm, thereby raising the compression ratio to 11-11.3. As camshafts, you can use standard, or tuning with a phase of 263-272. After tuning, you will get about 140-150 hp. and spend a fair amount of money. It's cheaper to sell your car and buy a much faster and more modern one.
The 1.6-liter Nissan GA16DE engine was produced from 1990 to 2002 in three modifications: with a phase regulator, without it, and also in the GA16DNE gas version for a number of developing countries. This power unit is known in our market for models such as Almera and Primera.
Modification without phase regulator
Modification with phase regulator
Cast iron, in-line, four-cylinder block with a cylinder diameter of 76 mm
The piston stroke is 88 mm, which gives the total working volume of the internal combustion engine in 1597 cm3
Aluminum pistons have a flat bottom and three ring grooves
The crankshaft is cast iron, stands on five supports and has four counterweights
Aluminum, sixteen-valve block head without hydraulic compensators
The bearing housings of the two camshafts are machined in one piece with the head
Intake valve diameter: 29.9-30.2, stem 5.46-5.48, length 92.0-92.5 mm
Exhaust valves diameter: 23.9-24.2, stem 5.44-5.46, length 92.4-92.9 mm
The gas distribution mechanism consists of two chains with 54 and 80 links
In some markets, an NVCS phase regulator is used at the inlet
Valve clearances for hot: inlet 0.32-0.40, outlet 0.37-0.45 mm
Valve clearances for cold: inlet 0.25-0.33, outlet 0.32-0.40 mm
The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft and lubricates under pressure
The total volume of lubricant in the internal combustion engine is 3.2 liters, a little more than 3.0 liters is needed for replacement
Non-separable oil filter with a volume of 0.4 liters with a bypass valve
Used oil from 5W-30 to 10W-40, quality class according to API: SF, SG, SH, SJ
The circulation of the coolant is carried out by a pump forcibly
The centrifugal pump is driven by a poly V-belt from the crankshaft pulley
Coolant volume 5.6 liters and expansion tank 0.7 liters
Antifreeze replacement is carried out every 6 years or 100 thousand kilometers
PDF
Here you can download the original manual in English
ARTICLE
There is an online manual for a number of GA-series motors.
Using the example of a 1998 Nissan Example with a manual transmission:
Using the example of a 1999 Nissan Almera with an automatic transmission:
Good reliability and decent resource
Cheap consumables, inexpensive spare parts
Not afraid of operation in severe frost
It is easy to find a worthy replacement donor
Low power of the internal combustion engine for such a displacement
Fuel consumption in the city 10 liters / 100 km
Floating RPM due to problems with KXX
High oil consumption after 200 thousand km
VIDEO
Engines in this series are considered very reliable and rarely bother their owners.
Floating rpm, bluntness and jerking indicate a clogged idle valve or a failure in the mass air flow sensor readings. Typically, these symptoms can be treated with routine cleaning, but sometimes a replacement may be necessary and can be expensive.
You can clean the mass air flow sensor or MAF sensor yourself, everything is shown here >>
How to get to the idle valve is described in this post >>
Periodically, here you should check the condition of the crankcase ventilation gasket, since it is because of its warpage that engine oil gets under the valve cover. The first sign of this under the hood is when the air filter is covered in grease.
Read a short story with a photo about replacing this gasket here >>
An alternative version of the exact same procedure is described here >>
On runs over 200,000 km, a progressive grease of oil often begins here. In some cases, you can get off by replacing the piston rings or valve stem seals, but more often you have to do a full and expensive overhaul.
The overhaul process with pictures is presented in detail here >>
Another story in seven parts, here is a link to the first part >>
About the same mileage, noise appears in the area of the gas distribution mechanism. If you pull with the replacement of the chains, the phases will be lost, the consumption will increase, the motor will run unevenly and, of course, there will be a risk of the chain jumping with very sad consequences.
You can change the timing kit yourself, the instruction with the photo is here >>
For this procedure, you will need a number of details, a complete list is here >>
VIDEO
All texts were written by me, have authorship of Google, are included in the original texts of Yandex and are notarized. With any borrowing, we immediately write an official letter on letterhead in support of search engines, your hosting and domain registrar.
Then we file a lawsuit. Don't try your luck, we have more than thirty successful internet projects and already a dozen court cases won.
Group: NISMO-CLUB
1988 CA16DE engine
History: 5 days ago in the evening, returning from work at about one in the morning, the car stalled at a traffic light and flatly refused to start itself (the starter turns and does not grab (but tries) tried diligently that the battery was already hooked)! A kind man drove up and offered his help (thanks to him for that!), Tied it to a rope and as soon as he began to drag me, I turned the key and the engine came to life!) I drowned it out and started it again, then again and again - no problem! I drove home normally, wind up near the house (all the rules) and went to sleep!
after 2 days (I drove them without problems) I drove home again in the evening and slowed down to go around the car - stalled! Attempts to start did not lead to anything (the starter turns cheerfully but does not start)! Again the man stopped and offered help (and thanks to him too) they tied it to a rope - dragged, dragged, dragged, dragged - it's useless! And that's all. I let the person go (called my father to come for me), and began to look for the reason: at first glance, everything is normal!
I collected everything and sat down to wait for my father! And a minute before his arrival, I try to start up again and lo and behold! the motor comes to life, but it details so much that I was already mentally prepared to replace the motor. Having slightly pogazovav the motor starts to work exactly as if nothing had happened. I'm driving home on my own (father is in the back for insurance)
I drove home without problems, jammed and turned on several times - no problem!
I got attached to the dad and let’s drag her, after 5 minutes it grabbed and started up but it didn’t work smoothly and when I pressed the gas it almost stalled, having started the engine a little bit, it stopped troit and started working smoothly.
I didn't start this morning (I twisted this sensor and started it in half with grief.
GUYS, HELP WHO CAN. (I'm not good at electrics. (() WHAT DO I NEED TO WATCH? HOW TO CHECK?
Link to original article - Techno Mind. You can comment here.
It so happened that my Nissan, despite the fact that it pulled well, ate a lot of gasoline. On the track, it turned out about 10 liters per 100 km. I generally keep quiet about the city. Of course, I rummaged through the forums, but no one could recommend anything specific. People wrote to check the mixture, check that, check that. I checked - everything was ok. And finally it was the turn to check the ignition timing, and it turned out that the angle was specifically knocked down, and the ignition was very late. Minute adjustment (about which a little lower) more than one and a half times reduced gasoline consumption, and the engine seemed to be changed - it became much better to pull.
And here is the logic. We were all taught at school that when the piston is at its highest point, the spark ignites the fuel mixture compressed by the piston, it ignites, and when it burns, it turns into a mass of hot exhaust gases that press against the cylinder walls and the piston with great force. Well, since it is much easier to move the piston than to spread the cylinder, the gases move it, producing horsepower for us. This is all in theory. In practice, since the pistons are attached to the engine crankshaft, and this whole system has some inertia, the piston will move down for a while itself, carried away by the inertial crankshaft, even if the fuel mixture for some reason does not ignite. In addition, the combustion of the fuel mixture is not instantaneous at all. From the moment the spark appears until the moment when the entire mixture ignites and the gas pressure reaches its maximum value, some time passes. This period of time is very small, but since the speed of rotation of the crankshaft is very high, even during this time the piston manages to travel a certain distance from the position at which the ignition of the mixture began. As a result, gases begin to press on the piston too late, engine efficiency and power decrease, and gasoline consumption increases significantly.
The solutions to the problem are simple - the spark must skip and ignite the fuel before the piston reaches its highest point. Then the gas pressure will reach its maximum at exactly the right moment - when the piston is at the very top.
The difference in degrees between the position of the crankshaft at which the piston is at its highest point and the position at which the fuel mixture is ignited is called the ignition timing.The optimal value of the ignition timing depends on a variety of factors - engine speed, fuel mixture, etc. The engine has several systems that optimize the angle automatically during operation, but the initial value must be set manually. It is this procedure that I will analyze now, using the example of the Nissan GA16DE engine.
Keep in mind that on modern engines (well, let's say the release of probably the last 6-7 years) this whole thing will not fail, because all these systems have become more “digital” and it’s already scary to go there. Look at the passport - if your car does not have a distributor, then your ignition is controlled by a computer.
There are 6 marks on the central pulley of the engine, and a fixed arrow is installed on the body of the engine itself:
The correct ignition timing on my engine, according to the passport, is 10 degrees, i.e. while the warm engine is idling, the arrow should point to the fourth mark exactly at the moment the spark jumps in the first cylinder of the engine. Since this whole thing happens very quickly, then you cannot do without a special device.
The fixture is a slightly modified strobe. I got myself this (10 bucks on eBay, although there are both 100 and 200. Advanced horror. What they don't measure. In English it is called ignition timing light gun):
The system is simple: inside there is a light bulb that receives power from the battery through red and black crocodiles, and it lights up only for a moment when the current in the high-voltage spark plug wire of the first cylinder induces a current in the stroboscope clothespin, which clings to this very spark plug wire:
Note that the clothespin has an arrow indicating the direction of the current to the first candle. It is important to install the clothespin correctly:
As a result, the marks are illuminated by a bright ray of light exactly at the moment of time we need, and for our “slow” eye the picture stops - it seems that the pulley has stopped and we can slowly examine the marks.
Of course, I could not help but promote the device itself:
The tracks on the board are very funny:
Video (click to play).
The light from the light bulb is collected by such a magnifying glass:
