Ga16de DIY repair

There are some questions about the GA16i 12V. I decided to start repairing the engine.
I bought 12 new wetsuits on existential.
Now I want to try to make the engine with my own hands.

1) If the compression in all cylinders is different - change the rings? Is this a capital?
2) If you take off your head - what parts will you need to buy? (valves, caps, etc.)?
3) How to measure (find out) if there is a barrel in the cylinders? Do I need to bore? What rings to take?
4) I do not have my own engine with power steering, but a steering column without power steering. Should I take it off? Need a different belt and pulley?

If there is a manual or a similar topic, please share. Since in a week or two I am ripe for repairs, and I would like to arm myself with theory.

Thank you who responded to my questions.

So, starting tomorrow, I start disassembling the engine.
Today I was at the service station. The craftsmen looked, listened, removed the valve cover. They said that you need to open your head and make a diagnosis.
Previously, they told me that the knocks are due to the pistons and valves. Apparently there is a gap in the cylinders and the pistons are playing. That is, replacement of pistons, rings, cylinder bore, head grinding, seats, valve grinding. This is still the beginning.
The cost I was told for work 6000 UAH + spare parts + delivery time of spare parts (about 7-14 days).

Waving his shoulders

, conceived to do it on his own, and with the help of his father (he had experience with BMW engines).
Having watched the video and photo reports on the bulkheads of similar engines, I gave myself confidence in the commission of my act.

So, today I'm taking the car to the garage. Starting tomorrow, I start dismantling the head. And also in parallel I will look for firms that grind and bore heads and cylinders.

I hope for your help in advice, as two, three, etc. heads are power. I'm just afraid to make mistakes.

Of course I will post photo reports every evening.

I understand that repairing the GA16I 12V engine is the first one to do. As on the Internet, no one has yet exhibited (at least not found) reports on the repair of just such an engine.

Of course, I will purchase spare parts as needed.
From what is already there:
- hydraulic compensators;
- head gasket.

———- Post added at 17:35 ———- Previous post posted at 17:32 ———-

And, by the way, the compression was measured today 8/8 / 8.5 / 7

This is my first day of repairing the engine.
The day was sunny and warm today. The mood is excellent for the time being. )
So. I disassembled the entire engine, tomorrow I will finish removing the block. And take the block and head for repair on Monday.

For more details:
Now I will describe what happened and how it was, and then a photo.

After removing the head - I saw carbon deposits on the pistons, and like in the oil inlet and outlet valves are dry.
When I shake the piston in different directions, clicks are heard, that is, the piston beats against the cylinder wall.
Here is the video itself:

Who will say what about this?

———- Post added at 17:35 ———- Previous post posted at 17:18 ———-

So:
He took off the mono-injector. All vacuum tubes, wires.
Leaked antifreeze, oil.
He took off the exhaust manifold. But there is one "but" here. the nuts were chewed. The gasket is not even squeezed out. I twisted it with my fingers. Apparently the master in the village, forgot to tighten the graduation

.
Then he removed the camshaft sprocket. Shaft with rockers (hydraulic compensators)
Disconnected all coolant hoses from the bottom of the intake manifold.
When unscrewing the small head bolts - the bolt that goes to the front cover of the block - tore off. - but it's not scary - I'll twist it.
He took off his head.
Here it starts here.
The valves, as I said, are wet in oil (intake). There is carbon deposits on the pistons, and there is a noticeable beating play along the cylinder wall.
Then he removed the pallet cover. He unscrewed the rods. As will be seen in the photo, they seemed to be rubbing.From the first cylinder - the upper liner just fell off. From the second too.
When I removed the pistons, all rings are not coked. Clean.
Since there was no internal gauge. I measured it in the cylinders with chips, inserting a number into each cylinder and in 4 places measured the gap of the ring lock. Here's what happened
1- cylinder 0.45 / 0.40 / 0.40 / 0.40
2- cylinder 0.50 / 0.40 / 0.40 / 0.40
3rd cylinder 0.55 / 0.40 / 0.40 / 0.40
4th cylinder 0.55 / 0.45 / 0.40 / 0.40

———- Post added at 17:39 ———- Previous post posted at 17:35 ———-

Now what I think:
Head: Grind the valve (replace the valve guides as necessary). Grind the head as needed. Check the camshaft for runout.

Block: bore cylinders to first oversize. Buy the first repair pistons and rings. Check the crankshaft for runout.

I would be glad to advice. Maybe I missed something.

———- Post added at 17:53 ———- Previous post posted at 17:39 ———-

The Nissan ga16de engine is a striking representative of the popular line from the manufacturer Nissan, because it is this unit that has earned the trust of many motorists. An extensive, widespread range of engines has taken a leading position in the automotive market, as a result of which it has confirmed not only quality, but also efficiency.

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The units were manufactured by Yokohama Plant, a well-known Japanese company. When developing the GA 15 DE line, back in 1987, 1.6 liter versions of engines were produced in parallel, the main difference of which was an increase in the diameter of all cylinders, in particular from 73.6 to 76 mm. The GA 16 DE units already had the new 9.5 compression pistons.

This motor is the first "bulky" version, the full production of which began in 1990. The carburetor types of engines from the GA 16 series were installed on European cars, and the vehicles of the Japanese manufacturer had GA 16 DE engines, which were distinguished by the presence of an electronic fuel injection system. A similar "division" of engines continued until the end of 1995, after which European cars were equipped with electronic fuel injection. Thus, since 1995, the GA 16 DE has been installed on all vehicles with certain characteristics. The power of the cars could be different, ranged from 102 - 110 horsepower. The production of units continued until the end of 2011.

Engines have proven themselves excellently for several years, because they are not demanding on fuel, as well as oil. Moreover, Nissan thought everything out so correctly that even the operation of the unit is unpretentious.

For an example of characteristics, it is worth considering all the data in a special table:

The design of the engines, regardless of their power and other indicators, does not differ: the cast-iron block has an aluminum head, as well as 2 timing chains.

The resource of the motor, depending on the operation, may be different. Although the units are unpretentious, when using low-quality fuel or oil, its resource is reduced to a total mileage of 300 thousand kilometers. With the right approach to the operation of the facility, its resource is 500 and more thousand kilometers. For proper operation, it is necessary to adjust the valve clearances every 50 thousand mileage, change the oil, candles, and filters in a timely manner.

Usually, the timing chain (there are two of them) will not disturb the driver until the run is about 250 thousand, but then replacing the chains is simply necessary.

The Nissan ga16de engine has its own identifying number, which can be seen on the engine itself from the side where the radiator is located.