Gas 53 DIY repair

In detail: gas 53 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

To assemble the engine, as well as to disassemble it, the engine block assembly with the clutch housing is fixed on the stand (see Fig. 11 of section "2.3.1. GAZ-53A and GAZ-66. Engine disassembly").
All engine parts are sized before assembly. (Table 4 see section "2.5.1. GAZ-53A and GAZ-66. Dimensions of the main parts, clearances and tightness in engine interfaces"). rinse thoroughly, blow with compressed air and wipe with clean napkins. All threaded connections (pins, plugs, fittings, etc.), if they were turned out during disassembly or were replaced with new ones, must be placed on red lead or lead whitewash diluted with natural drying oil. Permanent connections (plugs of the block and cylinder heads) are placed on nitro lacquer.
The following are not allowed to be installed on a repaired engine:

used cotter pins and cotter wires;
spring washers that have lost their elasticity;
extended thread bolts and studs;
nuts and bolts with worn edges;
parts with more than two nicks or dents on the thread or torn threads;
damaged gaskets.

Assemble the engine in the reverse order of disassembly.
Below are specific recommendations and additional requirements for engine assembly.
At replacement of cylinder liners before installation the liner is selected according to the socket in the cylinder block.
The liners are selected using an accurate metal ruler and a set of probes as follows: the liner, installed in its place in the cylinder block without gaskets, must sink against the cylinder block mating surface. The ruler is installed on the mating surface, and the probe is inserted into the gap between the ruler and the end of the sleeve (Fig. 23). The thickness of the gasket is chosen so that after installing the liner with the gasket, it will rise above the surface of the cylinder block in the range of 0.02 - 0.09 mm.

Video (click to play).

Rice. 23. Determination of the position of the liner in the cylinder block

Sealing gaskets are produced in various thicknesses: 0.3; 0.2; 0.15 and 0.1 mm. Depending on the gap, one or another gasket is put on the cylinder liner, sometimes the required value is obtained by a set of gaskets of various thicknesses.
After installation in the cylinder block, the liners are secured with clamping bushings (see Fig. 13 of section "2.3.1. GAZ-53A and GAZ-66. Dismantling the engine").
An asbestos cord impregnated with an oil-graphite mixture is used as a rear oil seal on engines. A cord with a length of 140 mm is laid in the sockets of the cylinder block and the gland holder. Using the device, the cord is crimped in its sockets with light hammer blows, as indicated in Fig. 24. Without removing the device, cut the ends of the cord flush with the plane of the gland holder connector. The cut must be even, no loose ends and uneven cut are allowed.

Rice. 24. Laying the crankshaft rear oil seal in the oil seal holder

Tighten the nuts securing the main bearing caps (torque 11-12 kgm). After tightening and splitting the nuts of the main bearing caps, the crankshaft should rotate easily with little effort.

Fig. 25. Pressing on the crankshaft gear

After pressing the crankshaft gear (Fig. 25) using a puller and a thrust sleeve, check the axial clearance of the crankshaft, for which press the crankshaft to the rear end of the engine and use a feeler gauge to determine the gap between the end of the rear thrust bearing washer and the end of the front main journal of the crankshaft (fig. 26). The gap should be between 0.075 - 0.175 mm.

Rice. 26. Checking the axial clearance

When assembling the parts of the connecting rod-piston group, the following requirements must be observed.

Piston fingers are selected to the connecting rods so that at room temperature (+ 18 ° C) a slightly lubricated finger smoothly moves in the connecting rod bore under a light thumb.
Before assembly, the pistons are heated in hot water to + 70 ° C.

Pressing a pin into a cold piston is not allowed, as this can lead to damage to the surfaces of the piston pin bore holes, as well as to deformation of the piston itself.

Rice. 27. Connecting the connecting rod to the piston:

a - for installation in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th cylinders; b - 5,6, 7 and 8th cylinders;

1-inscription on the piston; 2-number on the connecting rod; 3-mark on the connecting rod cover

When assembling, connecting rods and pistons are oriented as follows:

for pistons of the first, second, third and fourth cylinders, the inscription on the piston and the number stamped on the connecting rod should be directed in opposite directions, and for the pistons of the fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth cylinders - in one direction (Fig. 27).
The piston pin retaining rings are installed in the grooves of the piston bosses so that the bend of the antennae is directed outward.
Piston rings are selected according to the liners in which they will work. The gap measured at the junction of the ring laid in the sleeve should be within 0.3 - 0.5 mm for compression and oil scraper rings, chrome-plated is installed in the upper piston groove, and in the second - a tin-plated compression ring with a groove on the inner side to the bottom.
Before installing in the cylinder liners, the joints of the piston rings should be positioned at an angle of 120 ° to each other, and protective brass caps should be put on the connecting rod bolts to avoid accidental damage to the surface of the connecting rod journals.
When installing pistons in cylinder liners, make sure that the inscription on the piston is directed towards the front end of the cylinder block. Tighten the connecting rod bolt nuts (torque 6.8 - 7.5 kgm) and lock.

After pressing the gear onto the camshaft (Fig. 28), check the axial clearance between the thrust flange and the end of the camshaft gear with a feeler gauge. The gap should be between 0.08 - 0.2 mm.

Rice. 28. Pressing the gear onto the camshaft

Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the top dead center (TDC) position in the compression stroke.
Insert the breaker-distributor drive into the hole in the cylinder block so that the slot in the drive shaft is directed along the engine axis and shifted to the left, counting along the direction of the vehicle.
Fasten the drive housing with a holder and a nut so that the bracket with a threaded hole for attaching the switch-distributor is directed backwards and turned 23 ° to the left of the longitudinal axis of the motor, as shown in Fig. 29.
Before installing the breaker-distributor on the engine, check the gap in the breaker contacts and, if necessary, adjust it. The contact gap should be between 0.3 and 0.4 mm.
Using the octane-corrector nuts, turn the body of the breaker-distributor so that the arrow is set to zero scale division.
Turn the distributor rotor so that it faces towards the terminal of the first cylinder. The terminal of the first cylinder on the ignition distributor cover is marked with the number "1".
Put on the distributor cover with wires and connect the latter to the spark plugs in the order of operation of the engine cylinders (1 - 5 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 8). The ignition order is cast on the engine intake manifold.

Rice. 29. Installation of the drive of the breaker-distributor

GAZ 53 has long been off the production assembly line, but it still pleases the owners with its work, carrying out the transportation of goods. Like any car, this truck requires some maintenance and timely repairs.

One of the big advantages of this transport: the driver can independently repair the machine's malfunctions, from small ones to disassembling and assembling the gas 53 engine with his own hands. Materials such as photos and videos can also contribute to this.

Transport has earned the trust of drivers for its reliability and efficiency. These trucks are mainly powered by the ZMZ 53 engine with a volume of 4.35 liters or GAZ 11, which can be easily assembled and disassembled outside the service station.

Owners should remember that the car is quite old, so its engine is not the strongest and most durable.This factor is the main cause of malfunctions in the operation of the motor vehicle.

Such cars are operated in rather harsh conditions and drivers are accustomed to frequent breakdowns. Therefore, it is not difficult for them to assemble a gas 53 car engine and disassemble it in an open field with their own hands.

However, if you rarely encounter such situations, then take a closer look at the most common malfunctions that may arise:

the consumption of lubricant (oil) increases - it is necessary to change the piston rings;
connecting rod and shaft liners begin to knock - replacing these parts increases the potential of the motor;
burnout of cylinder block gaskets - occurs after engine overheating;
worn piston rings - cause: lack or improper maintenance of the unit.

If you check the oil and coolant levels of the car in a timely manner and do the work correctly according to the operating instructions, then these problems can be avoided. These listed failures are so serious that they can render the internal combustion engine inoperable.

Having carried out preventive work for the heart of your transport, you will ensure the reliability and long-term operation of it, and the car will always be ready for work. As a result of such actions, you will save money.

Necessary maintenance to be performed in a timely manner:

replacing or refilling fluids;
twisting the cylinder heads;
inspection of the exhaust manifold holders;
daily check of the coolant;
adjustment and adjustment of valve clearance;
daily oil level control.

Each technical device must receive appropriate care and maintenance on time, which will bear fruit in the future.

Failure to carry out preventive maintenance work can bring the unit to a complete standstill.

If this happens during the operation of the car, the life of the driver may be in danger: the oil level drops sharply, the sound of broken metal in the engine, creaking or knocking of parts in the engine.

In the event of these malfunctions, immediately stop the car and turn off the engine; further operation of the car is prohibited.

For the overhaul of the Gas 53 motor vehicle, a number of mandatory works need to be done: repair the pistons, change all connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft, update all types of oil seals of the unit, install another oil pump, replace the camshaft gears, as well as the crankshafts.

After checking all the elements, it is necessary to assemble the GAZ 53 internal combustion engine in the reverse order so that there are no unnecessary parts left.

Finding and buying the necessary parts for this engine is not easy. Disassembling and assembling an engine is a rather complicated process. Even if you do a major overhaul of the engine, it may not be possible to bring the car to perfect condition, since other systems are heavily earned.

The assembly after the repair of the gas 53 engine can be seen in the video above.

This video shows how to do it yourself engine repair Gas 53... For almost two hours, the author of the video reveals step by step the procedure for assembling the engine, starting with the preparatory work and ending with the unit completely ready for installation on the car.

The first preparatory step is a complete wash of all engine parts. The author tells in detail about the necessary materials and tools for the high-quality performance of this work.

The next preparatory stage is the installation of small parts such as bushings, bearings, oil seals, studs, plugs, etc. In the course of the assembly, it tells about the possible nuances that arise when installing certain parts. Also, this block describes the procedure and features of installing the crankshaft and camshaft, aligning the drive gears according to special marks.

Next, the author proceeds to describe the assembly of the crank and gas distribution mechanisms. The procedure for installing connecting rods, pistons with rings, intake and exhaust valves is shown in stages. At this stage, the oil pump is installed and the head bolts are screwed in. During the assembly process, the author of the video tells the diagram of the movement of oil in the cylinder block. The last, important action is the assembly and adjustment of the gas distribution mechanism, namely the installation of pushers, rocker arms, and adjustment of the gaps.

After that, the installation of various attachments on the engine is demonstrated, such as a pump, thermostat, oil filter, pressure gauge, connecting pipes and much more. As a result, the engine is assembled and ready to be installed on the vehicle.

To assemble the engine, as well as to disassemble it, the engine block assembly with the clutch housing is fixed on the stand (see Fig. 1).

Before assembly, all engine parts are sized, washed thoroughly, blown with compressed air and wiped with clean napkins. All threaded connections (pins, plugs, fittings, etc.), if they were twisted during disassembly or were replaced, must be placed on red lead or lead whitewash diluted with natural drying oil.

One-piece connections (plugs of the block and cylinder heads) are placed on nitro lacquer.

To be installed on a repaired engine not allowed:

- used cotter pins and cotter wires;

- spring washers that have lost their elasticity;

- bolts and studs with extended thread;

- nuts and bolts with worn edges;

- parts with more than two nicks or dents on the thread, or torn threads;

Assemble the engine in the reverse order of disassembly.

Below are specific recommendations and additional requirements for engine assembly.

When replacing cylinder liners, before installing, the liner is selected according to the socket in the cylinder block.

Liners are selected using an accurate metal ruler and a set of probes as follows:

- the liner, installed in its place in the cylinder block without gaskets, must sink against the cylinder block mating surface.

The ruler is installed on the mating surface, and the probe is inserted into the gap between the ruler and the end of the sleeve (Fig. 2).

The thickness of the gasket is chosen so that after installing the liner with the gasket, it will rise above the surface of the cylinder block within 0.02-0.09 mm.

Sealing gaskets are available in various thicknesses:

0.3; 0.2; 0.15 and 0.1 mm. Depending on the gap, one or another gasket is put on the cylinder liner, sometimes the required value is obtained by a set of gaskets of various thicknesses.

After installation in the cylinder block, the liners are secured with clamping sleeves (see Fig. 3).

As a rear oil seal on engines, an asbestos cord impregnated with an oil-graphite mixture is used. A cord with a length of 140 mm is laid in the sockets of the cylinder block and the gland holder. Using the device, the cord is crimped in its sockets with light hammer blows, as indicated in Fig. 4. Without removing the device, cut the ends of the cord flush with the plane of the gland holder connector. The cut must be even, no loose ends and uneven cut are allowed.

When assembling the crankshaft with flywheel and clutch, the following requirements are met.

The flywheel mounting nuts are tightened, providing a torque of 7.6-8.3 kgm.

When assembling the clutch, the driven disc is mounted with a damper to the pressure plate and centered on the crankshaft bearing (the gearbox drive shaft can be used as a mandrel).

Marks "O", embossed on the casing of the pressure plate and the flywheel near one of the holes for the casing mounting bolts, must be aligned.

The crankshaft, flywheel and clutch assembly must be dynamically balanced. Allowable imbalance is 70 Gsm.

When balancing, remove excess weight from the heavy side by drilling the flywheel metal at a distance of 6 mm from the ring gear with a drill 8 mm in diameter to a depth of no more than 10 mm.

If the imbalance of the assembled shaft exceeds 180 Gsm, the shaft is disassembled and each part is balanced separately. Flywheel imbalance should not exceed 35 Gsm; imbalance of the pressure plate assembly with the casing - 36 Gsm; The imbalance of the driven disk is 18 Gsm.

Main bearing caps set so that the fixing protrusions of the liners are on one side, and the numbers or marks embossed on the covers correspond to the numbers of the beds. When installing the front cover, it is necessary to ensure that the locking tab of the rear thrust bearing washer enters the groove of the cover, and that no steps are formed between the end of the cover and the end of the cylinder block.

Tighten the nuts securing the main bearing caps (torque 11-12 kgm). After tightening and splitting the nuts of the main bearing caps, the crankshaft should rotate easily with little effort.

After pressing the crankshaft gear (Fig. 5) using a puller and a thrust sleeve, check the axial clearance of the crankshaft, for which press the crankshaft to the rear end of the engine and use a feeler gauge to determine the gap between the end of the rear thrust bearing washer and the end of the front main journal of the crankshaft (fig. 6). The gap should be between 0.075 - 0.175 mm.

When assembling the parts of the connecting rod-piston group, the following requirements must be observed.

Piston pins are selected to the connecting rods so that at room temperature (+18 0 C) a slightly lubricated finger smoothly moves in the connecting rod hole under a slight effort of the thumb.

Before assembly, the pistons are heated in hot water to +70 0 С.

Pressing a pin into a cold piston is not allowed, as this can lead to damage to the surfaces of the piston pin bore holes, as well as to deformation of the piston itself.

Connecting rods and pistons when assembling, they are oriented as follows: for the pistons of the first, second, third and fourth cylinders, the inscription on the piston "in front" and the number stamped on the connecting rod should be directed in opposite directions, and for the pistons of the fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth cylinders - in one side (fig. 7).

The piston pin retaining rings are installed in the grooves of the piston bosses so that the bend of the antennae is directed outward.

Piston rings are selected according to the sleeves in which they will work. The gap, measured at the joint of the ring, laid in the sleeve, should be in the range of 0.3-0.5 mm for compression and oil scraper rings. In the upper piston groove, a chrome-plated one is installed, and in the second - a tin-plated compression ring with a groove on the inner side to the bottom.

Before installing the piston ring joints in the cylinder liners, place the piston ring joints at an angle of 120 ° to each other, and protective brass caps should be put on the connecting rod bolts to avoid accidental damage to the connecting rod journal surface.

When installing pistons in cylinder liners, make sure that the inscription on the piston "in front" is directed towards the front end of the cylinder block. Tighten the connecting rod bolt nuts (torque 6.8 - 7.5 kgm) and lock.

After pressing the gear onto the camshaft (Fig. 8), check the axial clearance between the thrust flange and the end of the camshaft gear with a feeler gauge. The gap should be between 0.08 - 0.2 mm.

Sometimes a car breaks down, requiring restoration measures. One of these procedures is the repair of the GAZ 53 engine, which has long expired its warranty period. Without cars, our lives would not only be less intense, but also more boring. In addition, the transportation of goods is one of the priority tasks, which is carried out using road transport. A striking representative of the domestic auto industry is GAZ 53, which is well known to each of us and is used for various types of cargo transportation.

It looks like a classic truck GAZ 53

At the time of its creation, the legendary GAZ 53 car was equipped with two engine options with many modifications. The first of these was the 6-cylinder GAZ 11, which did not find its broad note in this particular car model. In turn, the second version of the ZMZ 53 engine, having a volume of 4.25 liters, was installed much more times. Therefore, today the GAZ 53 engine is often exactly the ZMZ 53. This engine is a kind of standard for the reliability and durability of an automobile engine.

Zmz 53 engine for gas 53 car

knock of connecting rod bearings;
burnout of exhaust valves;
increased fuel and oil consumption;
abrasion of piston rings;
knocking of upper bushings or pistons;
burnout of the cylinder block gaskets.

It is these malfunctions that most often lead to engine malfunction, which can cause it to stop completely. Almost all of them are associated with violations of the operation of the unit. So, the abrasion of the piston rings and the appearance of knocking in the connecting rod bearings are the result of neglecting the vehicle operating instructions.

In turn, the burnout of various valves and gaskets is a direct consequence of overheating of the system, and an increase in oil consumption occurs as a result of ignoring preventive measures.

Prevention of the ZMZ 53 engine is a guarantee of maintaining its optimal functionality and is designed to maintain the operation of the device at the proper level.

In addition, similar measures make it possible to timely determine the formation of any serious damage to the motor and eliminate them at the lowest cost.

That is why these procedures are of great importance and prevent the formation of minor faults, the list of which was given above. In general, the maintenance of the GAZ 53 engine consists in carrying out the following measures:

replacement of the lubricant;
tightening the cylinder heads;
checking the exhaust manifold mountings;
control of the amount of coolant;
adjustment of valves;
checking the oil level in the system.

Timely implementation of all the above procedures can serve as the key to the successful operation of an automobile engine and guarantee its optimal functionality. Maintenance of the machine has its own subtleties that must be taken into account by all means.

Engine lubrication system Gas 53

Neglecting preventive measures and ignoring the primary signs of engine malfunction can lead to quite disastrous consequences, especially if it stalls on the road. The following conditions are similar factors that can completely disable a car and even affect the safety of people in it:

knocking in the engine;

wedge of moving elements of the engine;

uncharacteristic metallic sound during operation;

critical drop in oil level.

The above criteria are a signal to immediately stop the motor and stop it completely. In the future, its work can be restored only by overhaul, which implies a complete disassembly of the engine and replacement of its damaged part.Truck engine repair Gaz 53

restoration of the piston group;

replacement of the connecting rod and main crankshaft bearings;

complete replacement of all seals, plugs and oil seals;

installation of a new oil pump;

change of crankshaft and camshaft gears;

renewal of valve stem seals.

Engine overhaul is a rather complicated process that can lead to serious material costs. First of all, they consist in buying new parts, which are sometimes quite difficult to get. At the same time, even carrying out a full-fledged restoration of the motor may not give a positive result in view of the fact that all other systems of the machine are also in an extremely worn out condition.Diagram of the device of the Gas 53 engineYou can fix the GAZ 53 engine with your own hands, but this process requires some training and professional skills. At the same time, without theoretical aspects and a clear understanding of the structure of work, it is not even worth starting such an event. The motor is one of the most complex systems in a car. Therefore, in order to fully repair it and get a positive result, you need to be completely confident in your own abilities. In general, the repair of the GAZ 53 engine consists in carrying out the following manipulations:

removing the engine from the car;

cleaning of all internal and external surfaces;

disassembly of units and structural elements of the system;

replacement of damaged parts;

preventive inspection of all connections and fasteners;

assembly;

running-in;

installation in the car.

Two engine models were installed on the GAZ 53 car from the factory - a 6-cylinder in-line GAZ 11 and an 8-cylinder ZMZ 53. The eight-cylinder engine had various improvements and modifications (ZMZ-53A, ZMZ 53 11, ZMZ-511, etc.) , but its essence has not changed, and structurally all motors are made in the same way. Like any other engine, ZMZ 53 breaks down sooner or later, and it has to be repaired.

An example of the installed ZMZ-53A engine

Internal combustion engines of the ZMZ 53 family have a good resource and are quite hardy, but so that this resource does not decrease, it does not interfere with regular maintenance of the internal combustion engine. Prevention and maintenance measures include:

Regular replacement of engine oil (for mineral type - every 5-6 thousand km of run, for "synthetics" or "semi-synthetics" - 10-12 thousand km of run). But whether it is worth pouring synthetic oils into this "engine" is a separate topic for conversation;
Periodic tightening of the cylinder heads (cylinder head) and the intake manifold ("spider") mountings. The block heads just need to be tightened after 1.5-2 thousand km after replacing the cylinder head gasket or after repairs associated with removing the head. It is recommended to check the tightening in other cases every 30 thousand km, but it is possible more often if desired - it will not be worse from this.

In order for the engine of the GAZ 53 car to do without major repairs as long as possible, it is necessary to regularly diagnose malfunctions and maintain the proper condition of the engine, immediately eliminate all problems that are related to the wear of engine parts, and also use the fuel and engine oil recommended by the manufacturers.

If possible, the pistons and combustion chamber surfaces should be protected from carbon deposits.

The fastening of the cylinder heads to the cylinder block needs a systematic check. If the fastening is loose, then the nuts must be tightened. Before this, it is advisable to drain the coolant from the system, after which it is necessary to loosen the fastening of the intake pipe to the cylinder heads in order to avoid the effect of tightening the head of one cylinder on the other.

on the photo the device of the engine of the GAZ-53 truck

Only then are the fastening nuts tightened with a torque wrench. Such a tightening is recommended to be done during the first three maintenance of the car. Then the tightening is done a little less often - every TO-2.

As mentioned above, when using the recommended fuel and lubricants, engine repairs can be completely avoided, carbon deposits on the pistons and internal combustion chambers will be small and will not affect the operation of the engine in any way. But if you neglect the recommendations of the manufacturers, then carbon deposits will be significant, and this, in turn, will lead to detonation, a decrease in power and an increase in the consumption of fuels and lubricants.

diagram of the device of the engine of the car GAZ-53

In order to get rid of carbon deposits, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the piston crowns and the walls of the internal combustion chambers. The soot contains a large amount of toxic substances, and you need to be careful so that they do not enter the respiratory tract.For this, carbon deposits are well lubricated with kerosene.

To increase the potential of the engine on the GAZ-53, it is necessary to regularly replace the piston rings and crankshaft main liners. The liners are replaced when there is a significant drop in engine oil pressure. The connecting rod bearings should also be replaced as necessary.

You also need to thoroughly clean the cavities of the crankshaft connecting rod journals. If they are cleaned poorly, this will lead to rapid wear of the connecting rod bearings.

If the oil consumption begins to exceed 400 g per 100 km of run, then it is time to change the piston rings. It is necessary to install a set of rings, which consists of a compression cast iron ring and a set of steel discs.

When replacing the rings on the cylinder liners, it is advisable to remove the unworn part of the belt, and also to clean the cylinder head and piston crowns from carbon deposits.

The gas distribution mechanism also requires periodic checks. If necessary, adjust the valve clearances and clean them from carbon deposits. The clearances need to be checked only with the engine idling, with the pusher fully lowered.

The GAZ 53 engine has the same breakdowns as on another gasoline power unit. But they don't just appear, there must be a reason. Consider breakdowns and their causes:

Breakdowns and reasons can be listed for a long time, so the most typical ones are taken as an example.

Overhaul of the ZMZ 53 engine is necessary in cases where:

Engine knocks, low pressure in the lubrication system;

New engine for GAZ 53 truck

You can also list a lot of reasons, there are many different nuances. Overhaul of ZMZ 53 implies the following actions:

Removing the engine;
Washing of parts;
Dismantling and troubleshooting of all components of the internal combustion engine;
Grinding the crankshaft (if it needs grinding);
Replacing the camshaft bushings, if necessary, with their subsequent deployment;
Lapping valves;
Assembly;
ICE run-in;
Installation on a car;

The process of installing the engine on a truck

As a rule, parts are replaced during the repair:

Piston group assembled (cylinders, pistons, piston rings, pins, piston pin circlips);
Crankshaft connecting rod and main bearings;
Oil seals, gaskets, hexagon drive of the oil pump, gaskets for liners;
Oil pump;
Camshaft and crankshaft gears;
Valve stem seals.

The valve in the cylinder head, the camshaft is changed as these parts wear out. The crankshaft has 6 overhaul sizes and must be replaced when it no longer lends itself to grinding. You can do engine repairs with your own hands, the GAZ 53 repair manual describes the device in detail and gives advice on disassembling and assembling the internal combustion engine.

Diagram of a motor for gas 53

The Gorky Automobile Plant GAZ 53 did not complete the D-245 engine of Minsk production, but truck owners installed many of these motors on their own or used the services of companies that are specialized in installing. The diesel engine has a more significant resource than the ZMZ 53, but sooner or later it also needs repair - perpetual motion machines do not exist yet.

In order for the D-245 engine to last longer, you need to monitor its technical condition and carry out maintenance on time.

An example of the installed D-245 engine

Change the engine oil every 10 thousand kilometers;
Check the coolant level in the radiator;
Periodically drain sediment from the coarse fuel filter;
Change the fine fuel filter every 25 thousand kilometers;
Replace the air filter after 80 thousand km of run or as it becomes clogged;
Check the oil level in the crankcase before each ride;
Carry out a control tightening of the cylinder head on a hot internal combustion engine after 2 thousand km after repair and periodically after every 40 thousand km of run;
Adjust the valves every 20 thous.km, after each repair associated with the removal of the cylinder head, in the event of valve knocking.

The diesel engine D-245 has a long resource and can run 400-500 thousand km before overhaul. But due to the poor quality of fuel and engine oil, overheating and violation of operating rules (overloading, exceeding the speed limit), various breakdowns occur. Major repairs are optional, but current (partial) repairs have to be performed. Assembly car engine GAZ-53-12 To assemble the engine, as well as to disassemble it, the cylinder block is fixed on a rotating stand to provide free access to all the engine parts and assemblies.repair, two locating pins are first removed from the block, then the crankcase is bolted to the block. A crankshaft is installed in the block on two main bearings. An indicator is attached to the rear flange of the crankshaft on a special stand.Rotating the shaft, check the runout of the hole for the centering shoulder of the gearbox and the perpendicularity of the rear end of the clutch housing relative to the crankshaft axis (Fig. 70 and 71). The runout of the hole and the end of the crankcase should not exceed 0.08 mm. If the hole runout exceeds the specified value, loosen the crankcase fastening to the block and lightly hit the crankcase flange to ensure its correct installation, and then tighten the mounting bolts. After tightening the bolts, the holes for the dowel pins in the clutch housing and the cylinder block are expanded simultaneously to the repair size. The diameter of the hole must be such that no black remains in the reamed holes. Then pins are pressed into the holes, the diameter of which is 0.015 - 0.051 mm larger than the diameter of the holes. Crankcase end beating is eliminated by scraping.Rice. 70. Checking the concentricity of the mounting hole:
1 - clutch housing; 2 - gearbox device in the clutch housing with the crankshaft axisRice. 71. Checking the perpendicularity of the rear end of the clutch housing to the crankshaft axisRice. 72. Checking the value of the sinking of the liner in the cylinder blockWhen assembling the engine, observe the following order of operations.
Cylinder liners are installed in the cylinder block. A sealing gasket is installed under each sleeve. The accuracy of the block, the cylinder liner and the thickness of the gasket ensure the protrusion of the upper end of the liner above the mating surface of the block under the cylinder head in the range of 0.02 - 0.10 mm.Note. On some engines, a set of gaskets was used to ensure the required liner protrusion. In this case, before installing the sleeves in the block, they are selected using a metal ruler and a probe as follows: the sleeve installed in the block without a sealing gasket must sink relative to the mating surface of the head. The ruler is installed on the mating plane, and the probe is inserted into the gap between the ruler and the end of the sleeve (Fig. 72). The thickness of the set of gaskets should ensure that the liner protrudes above the mating plane in the range of 0.02 - 0.10 mm.After installing the sleeves in the block, they are secured against falling out with special sleeve-clips (see Fig. 46).Install the crankshaft oil seal (asbestos cord 120 mm long, impregnated with oil-graphite mixture) into the grooves of the rear socket of the main bearing of the block and the gland holder. Using a special mandrel, the cord is pressed into the grooves of the socket by lightly tapping a hammer, as indicated in Fig. 73. Without removing the device, cut the ends of the cord protruding from the plane of the connector by 0.5 - 1.0 mm. The cut should be even.
Assembly of the crankshaft: the bearing of the input shaft of the gearbox is pressed into the crankshaft socket;
install the flywheel on the shaft and fix it by tightening the four fastening nuts with a torque equal to 76 - 83 Nm. The flywheel mounting nuts are pinned;screw the pressure plate with the casing assembly to the flywheel, after centering the clutch disc with a mandrel on the bearing at the rear end of the crankshaft (the gearbox input shaft can be used as a mandrel). The marks embossed on the casing of the pressure plate and the flywheel near one of the holes for the casing mounting bolts are aligned (Fig. 74).Rice. 73. Installation of stuffing box packing in the oil holderThe casing mounting bolts are tightened with a wrench with a torque of 20 - 25 Nm. The clutch disc is fitted with a damper to the pressure disc. The crankshaft complete with flywheel and clutch is balanced at the factory, so after replacing one of these parts, the shaft is dynamically balanced again. The imbalance should not exceed 30 gf cm less than 15 mm.If the imbalance of the assembled crankshaft exceeds 180 gf-cm, then the shaft is disassembled and each part is balanced separately. The crankshaft is dynamically balanced. The permissible imbalance is 15 gf-cm. The rest of the parts are statically balanced. The permissible imbalance of the flywheel is 35 s-cm, the clutch disc 18 s-cm, the clutch pressure plate with the casing assembly is 36 gf-cm.Install the main bearing shells in the block seats and main bearing caps. Put the rear thrust bearing washer on the front main journal of the crankshaft with the side filled with antifriction alloy to the crankshaft cheek. The liners of the main bearings and the crankshaft journals are lubricated with clean engine oil and the shaft is placed in the cylinder block.Put the main bearing caps on the studs so that the locating lugs on the upper and lower shells of each bearing are on one side, and the numbers stamped on the caps correspond to the numbers of the block bearings. When installing the front cover, make sure that the locking tab of the rear thrust bearing washer fits into the groove of the cover and that there is no step between the ends of the cover and the block.Place the covers in place by lightly tapping them with a rubber mallet. Install the locking plates. Screw on the nuts for securing the covers and tighten them evenly, making sure that there are no distortions. Finally, these nuts are tightened with a special torque wrench with a torque of 100-120 N * m. The nuts are pinned with locking plates, bending the tendril of the locking plate to the edge of the nut. After tightening the nuts, the crankshaft should rotate easily with little effort.The gland holder is installed in place. Before installation, rubber gaskets are inserted into the grooves of the gland holder. Shaped flat and spring washers are put on the studs and special nuts of the gland holder are screwed on.Place the front thrust bearing washer with the side cast with antifriction alloy to the toe of the crankshaft so that it fits with its grooves on the pins, pressed into the block and the front main bearing cover.Slide a steel thrust washer onto the toe of the crankshaft. If the washer has traces of wear, then it is installed with the unworn side to the front thrust bearing washer.Rice. 75. Pressing the crankshaft gearRice. 76. Checking the axial clearance of the crankshaftInstall the crankshaft gear segment key in the groove and press on the gear until it stops (Fig. 75).Check the axial clearance of the crankshaft. To check, squeeze the crankshaft to the rear end of the engine and use a feeler gauge to determine the gap between the end face of the thrust bearing washer and the plane of the shoulder of the first main journal (Fig. 76). The gap should be within 0.075-0.175 mm.The procedure for assembling the connecting rod-piston group:
carefully select the pistons on the liners;select the piston pins to the connecting rods so that, at normal room temperature, the slightly lubricated finger smoothly moves in the hole of the upper connecting rod head under a light thumb force (Fig. 77). The color of the marking on the pin must match the color of the marking on the piston pin bosses. Picking fingers from another group is not allowed;a connecting rod, piston and finger are assembled on a special device. Before assembly, the piston is heated in hot water to a temperature of 70 ° C. Pressing a pin into a cold piston is not allowed, as this can damage the surface of the bore of the piston boss, as well as deform the piston itself. Before assembly, the connecting rods and pistons (Fig. 78) are oriented as follows: for pistons 1, 2, 3 and 4 cylinders (see Pos. 1), the inscription on the piston "Front" and the number stamped on the connecting rod must be on opposite sides, and for pistons 5, b, 7 and 8 cylinders (see pos. II), the inscription on the piston and the number on the connecting rod must be on one side;install the piston pin retaining rings in the grooves of the bosses so that the bend of the antennae is directed outward;select piston rings on the liners;using a special tool, the piston rings are put on the pistons. A chrome-plated compression ring is installed in one groove, and a tin-plated one in the second. The compression rings are installed with an internal groove to the piston crown.All rings must move freely in their grooves.Rice. 77. Selection of the piston pin to the connecting rodRice. 78. Connecting the connecting rod to the piston:
I - for installation in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th cylinders;
II - for installation in the 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th cylinders;
1 — number on the connecting rod; 2 — mark on the connecting rod coverPistons and connecting rods are inserted into the cylinder liners. For this:before installation, carefully wipe the lower heads of the connecting rods and the crankshaft journals with a napkin. The connecting rod bearing shells are installed in the lower heads of the connecting rods. The liner should fit snugly against the socket. Oil or foreign particles must not enter between the bearing and the connecting rod;set the crankshaft to the position corresponding to N.m.t. in the cylinder where the piston is installed;
the locks of the flat annular discs are set apart at an angle of 180 ° to one another, and the locks of the axial and radial expanders - at an angle of 90 ° with respect to the locks of the annular discs; put safety brass caps on the connecting rod bolts, lubricate the liners, the piston, the connecting rod journal of the crankshaft and the cylinder liner with clean engine oil, and install the piston into the cylinder using a mandrel (Fig. 79). Before installing the pistons, make sure that the number stamped on the connecting rod corresponds to the cylinder number, and the inscription on the piston '' Before ”is directed to the front end of the block; Rice. 79. Installation of the piston with rings in the cylinderpull the connecting rod by the lower head to the connecting rod journal, remove the safety caps from the bolts, put on the connecting rod cover, checking the correspondence of the numbers of the cover and connecting rod. The cover is placed in such a way that the fixing antennae of the inserts are directed in one direction;

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tighten the connecting rod nuts with a torque wrench to a torque of 68 - 75 N • m and lock them. The lock nut is tightened by turning 1.5 - 2 faces from the position of contact of the end of the lock nut with the end of the main nut or by a torque of 3 - 5 Nm. Locking the connecting rod nuts can be carried out in another way: the surface of the connecting rod bolt thread is lubricated with the universal sealant "Unigerm-9", the thread of the bolt and nuts must be thoroughly degreased. The rest of the pistons are installed in the same way.