Gas water heater electrolux 275 DIY repair

Warranty and post-warranty repair of AEG, Electrolux, Zanussi gas water heaters.

Authorized service center AEG, Electrolux, Stiebel Eltron.

Service partnership with the federal online store Rusklimat.

Repair and maintenance of gas water heaters Electrolux GWH 275 SRN (RN), GWH 250 LEN, AEG GWH 11 RN, Vaillant MAG pro OE 11-0 / 0.

These geysers were produced by the Spanish plant Fagor and are the most successful of a similar model range. The control is fully hydraulic with a permanently lit igniter. Automation is based on the speed of water flow through the water unit.

During ignition, the control knob is set to ignition, the pusher of the handle axis presses the solenoid valve. Next, we press on the piezoelectric element, the spark jumps into the ignition burner and ignites the flame.

It is necessary to wait about 10-20 seconds and turn the knob into the operating mode (summer or winter). The pilot flame heats up the thermocouple, which generates a voltage of about 30 millivolts to hold the electromagnet in a clamped state. The gas unit is brought into working order.

The column is waiting for the opening of the tap with water. As soon as water begins to flow through the water unit, the activation rod moves up and opens the gas supply valve to the burner. The burner is ignited by the pilot and the water is heated. After turning off the water, the water unit returns to its original state, the burner goes out, the igniter continues to burn.

It consists of separate units of a traction interrupter, a heat exchanger, a burner with a gas supply train and nozzles, a gas unit, a water unit, a thermocouple, an ignition burner. Gas and water units are collapsible and repairable.

For repair, the outer protective casing is removed and a visual inspection is performed. The shroud retaining screw is located under the lower handle.

Leakage can be due to burnout and corrosion of the heat exchanger, wear of the seals and oil seals of the water unit.

There were isolated cases of not turning off the gas burner after closing the water tap. Due to the lack of heat removal, the water in the heat exchanger boils, vaporization occurs and, with the release of steam, melts the parts of the water unit (between the metal half-shells, the units of the water unit are plastic).

Replacing the original heat exchanger does not cause any difficulties. There are heat exchangers of Russian production in Tula, Iva-Service LLC. In the absence of a heat exchanger, a heat exchanger from GWH285 can be installed on the GWH275. There is no need to make changes to the structure, only it is necessary to install a 3/8 ″ extension about 40 mm long between the outlet of the water unit and the inlet of the heat exchanger (in the photo it is assembled from a 1/2 ″ barrel and two adapters).

The stages of repair are shown in the photographs.

Sometimes, when installing the gas handle in the ignition position and pressing the piezoelectric element, the igniter does not ignite. The igniter can be lit with a match. This defect is caused by an incorrect position or contamination of the spark plug and, less often, a malfunction of the piezoelectric element. The presence of a spark, you can see it, and clean the candle and bend the electrode. When the button falls out of the body of the piezo base, the button can be fixed with a ring.

Another malfunction - after igniting the pilot burner, and after waiting for the required time for the thermocouple to warm up and turn the knob to the operating position, the igniter goes out. This breakdown can be caused by a malfunction of the solenoid valve of the gas unit, disruption (oxidation) of the contact between the solenoid valve and the thermocouple, malfunction of the thermocouple, malfunction of the thermostat of the gas control system (soldered to the thermocouple wires and checked by a jumper) and malfunction of the valve of the gas unit.

In the valve of the gas unit there is a plastic cylinder with a groove for moving the axis and when the groove is worn, the valve does not function correctly.

The next possible breakdown is when, when the igniter is on and the gas valve handle is in summer or winter mode, after opening the water, the burner does not ignite. This is a malfunction of the water unit, internal blockages of the filter, vias, tubes inside, damage to the membrane.

Another possible malfunction of the water unit. The stem of the water unit hangs in the upper position due to a breakdown of the water flow valve, which seizes the piston of the stem.

Note the small tab on the membrane. He is responsible for smoothly turning on the gas when the water tap is opened (the flame should increase for 2-4 seconds), and instantaneous off when the tap is closed. If the membrane tongue does not adhere tightly to the lower half (does not cover the via of the Venturi tube) of the water unit, then when you turn it on again, the column will give out a portion of boiling water. All malfunctions of the water unit are eliminated by its bulkhead or replacement.

In May 2017, a repair kit for a water unit manufactured by Nizhny Novgorod appeared. The repair kit includes rubber rings, a membrane, a lubricant. The repair kit can be purchased from us.

The extinction of the column during its operation is associated with clogging of the heat exchanger soot or weak draft and insufficient air flow into the room. At a nominal gas consumption of 2 cu. meters per hour, about 25 cubic meters of air are needed, naturally, when installed in a small room, without providing air flow, the gas column will go out.

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I have an Electrolux GWH 265 ERN Nanoplus gas water heater installed and connected. Everything suits me, I especially want to note the battery ignition. But too much sensitivity to water pressure is very unpleasant. While researching this issue, I found that some recommend adjusting the microswitch responsible for monitoring the water pressure. Tell me, is it possible to do this, and what nuances need to be taken into account in this process?

To implement the plan, you need to set the flow using the right knob on the device to the lowest value. At the same time, the differences will not greatly affect the process. The device starts not from pressure, but from the flow rate, and the knob on the right regulates this parameter. If a bad start occurs, you should measure the flow rate. To do this, you can take a two-liter bottle of mineral water and a stopwatch. If the flow rate is less than 2.5 l / min, you should replace the pipes. Most likely, they are so badly rusted that they prevent the water from moving normally. Also, if you have flexible liners installed, you need to install something else, while their diameter should be at least 14 mm. If this does not help, then you can install an automatic pump, which will forcibly increase the water flow rate.

I am interested in mixers with a thermostat installed on them. I was told that they should not be installed if an open-type column is in operation (Electrolux 265 ERN Nano Plus). Although I do not understand why this is so. Moreover, if there is a closed apparatus with a temperature controller, then a thermostat is not needed at all on the mixer. I'm right?

It makes sense to install a thermostat only if you are very sensitive to temperature changes. Even in closed-type water heaters, there are not significant differences due to transient processes (the delta usually does not exceed 1-2 degrees). Therefore, mixers with a thermostat are usually placed on devices where it is required to reduce the temperature difference. It doesn't matter what type they are.
The only thing is that it is not recommended to install such a crane on the mechanics, as this can cause overheating, due to the fact that they are not regulated by anything other than mechanical handles, and then within very narrow limits.

I have an Electrolux 350 gas water heater at work. When I open the tap to take a shower, the water runs at different temperatures: sometimes cold or hot. It is very uncomfortable.It seems to me that the problem is its low productivity, as well as the strong remoteness of the shower (more than 3m) from the unit. Is there any way to fix this? Perhaps you can install some kind of expansion tank that will help stabilize the temperature of the supplied water? Or do you still need to install a boiler?

Your problem is due to unstable network pressure. If you connected it to your water, and the unit is also connected to the pump directly, then it is not at all surprising that there is a problem. If you have a good margin of pressure, try putting a reducer at the inlet, and adjusting it to the minimum pressure in the network, while it should be at least 1 bar. If the pressure is not stable and falls below 1 bar, then you will have to install a model with a closed chamber and electronic temperature stabilization. It is also possible to install a boiler. If you connect a small electric boiler (about 30 liters in size) in series with the existing column, this will significantly improve the situation. In this case, the boiler thermostat will need to be set to the same temperature that is set on the column. This is necessary so that the electric heating of the boiler is not connected.

To measure something, you need to understand what is the minimum power and what is the maximum power. And you did not indicate this. Therefore, there can be no talk of a norm. Most likely, the gas valve spring has weakened, but since you cannot buy it separately, you will have to change the entire gas valve.

Malfunction of the gas water heater Electrolux 265 Nano Plus. Problems with inclusion began. After I open the water supply to the tap to the maximum position, I have to wait more than 30 seconds for it to start working. It happens that the start is faster, but this is in the event that you start turning both knobs on the device. Moreover, each time the handles remain in different positions. It's been such a terrible job for a week now and I don't know how to fix it. Please tell me what to do? There is a huge overconsumption of water. The display does not react to this in any way. Moreover, if a spark appears, then the unit starts up the first time.

You should disassemble the water block and make sure the membrane is intact, and also check all other parts of it. For example, he could jam. Also check the microswitch. If you press on it with your hand, there should be a spark.

I bought and installed an Electrolux GWH 350 RN column. She was connected to gas. And immediately the problem arose that the water did not heat up. At the same time, everything seems to work as it should. But the water is no more than 20 degrees. Installed different modes of water and gas supply. It did not help. How can I fix this problem?

And what's the point of overpaying when you could buy Oasis Comfort or Vector. Moreover, they would have exactly the same components.

You cannot solve this problem yourself. Contact a specialized service center.

If you have a question, you should contact a specialized service department.

Malfunction of the gas flowing water heater Electrolux GWH 265 ERN Nanoplus. After three months of operation, the E0 error appeared. After studying the instruction manual, I saw that it means “water overheating”. Can I somehow fix this problem on my own, or do I have to contact a specialist? I let the air out and saw that the delay was about 3 seconds. This is fine? I checked the water pressure and saw that in 50 seconds 10 liters of cold water flowed out. And the same amount of hot water in 97 seconds. This suits me, but I do not like the error that appears.

Decrease the gas and increase the water flow with the right knob. If the thermometer shows that there is no overheating, then most likely you have a problem with the sensor. It needs to be closed. In theory, this is not a problem for a 30 meter pipe. You can also shut off the water inlet to the gas water heater, then it will go out faster.

The column Electrolux GWH 350 RN works for me. Lately, I have not been able to light it in any way. I changed the batteries, checked all the connections. I don't even hear the sound of a spark.But when I removed the lid, I managed to light it with a match. The unit worked for a couple of seconds and then went out again. Apparently there is some kind of problem with the ignition. The display shows error E1.

Most likely, you have a broken thermocouple.

Malfunction of the gas column Electrolux GWH 285 Nanopro. She worked properly for 5 years. Now there is a problem. Everything also turns on properly, but if it works for a long time (about 30 minutes, it does not turn off), then when you try to turn it on again: 1) gives a spark for 5 seconds, but the gas does not ignite; 2) flashes
red diode. It can properly turn on only after a pause of about 10-20 minutes. After a pause, it lights up properly. If you use it in short intervals, there is no problem. Help me to understand! I read that there is a similar manifestation if the protection for traction or heating by gases is triggered. But the heater does not turn off by itself.

When the draft / overheating sensors are triggered, there is no spark. To begin with, we install new high-quality alkaline batteries. Perhaps, when heated, the servo valve stops working, which soon means it will break completely. After warming up, when restarting with a multimeter, we measure the voltage on the servo valve - if there is about 1.4V, remove the valve - check with a battery - change / repair the valve. If there is no voltage, we check the contacts, wires and the controller.

The gas water heater Electrolux GWH 265 is in operation. I really like the battery ignition, but extreme sensitivity to water pressure makes life very difficult. Found an advice to adjust the microswitch that monitors the pressure in the line - can you tell me the nuances?

Put the duct (right twist on the device), the smaller the better and the differences will not affect so much, unless, of course, the differences are from zero. It turns on not from pressure, but from the size of the flow. The right handle is just the duct and regulates. If it does not start well, you need to measure the flow in the simplest way - with a two-liter bottle of mineral water and a stopwatch. If it is less than 2.5 l / min, you need to change the old rusty pipes that limit the flow, all kinds of flexible liners, if there is, change to something with an inner diameter of at least 12-14mm. Well, or install an automatic booster pump, if at the entrance to the apartment everything is already bad with pressure and flow.

Column Electrolux 275. Emergency shutdown of water in the area, after starting the device (at first, very rusty water began to flow) ceases to turn on. The water pressure in the system is as usual, but the column itself cuts off the water pressure and rattles strongly in the water block. What could it be?

There is a filter (if there is no other filter before the column), it seems to be clogged. If someone threw it out, then there is garbage in the frog itself. The output from the device must also be checked, there may be scale.

I also wanted to clarify about mixers with thermostats. As far as I understood, it is not recommended to put them together with “open” columns (though I don’t fully understand why). And if we consider closed appliances with temperature control, is there any point in a thermostatic mixer in this case?

Thermostat makes sense only if it is especially sensitive to temperature changes. Since even in closed systems, there are small fast transient processes that do not go beyond 1-2 degrees. These mixers can only be installed on temperature-stabilized columns, no matter open or closed. On the mechanics - undesirable - this can cause it to overheat, since the power there either is not regulated in any way except for the handles, or within very small limits, insufficient for reliable operation with thermostatic mixers.

The gas water heater Electrolux 285 Nano Pro is in operation. The cold water pressure is very good and the warm outlet water pressure is very weak. Where to look for a malfunction?

First, the hydraulic resistance of old devices is very high. There is a hole in the membrane of the water unit. Through which water passes about 3 mm. Maybe this node is clogged. Disassemble, you need to look.Either a clogged water block (or its filter mesh), or the heat exchanger is overgrown with scale.

Installed column Electrolux GWH 265 ERN NanoPlus. The problem is that when you shower, the water is alternately hot and cold. In short, it is not very comfortable to take a shower. I think this is due to the fact that it has poor performance, or is located far from the shower (3 meters). What do you advise? Maybe there are expansion tanks that somehow helped the heater to always supply hot water? Or do you need to change everything to a boiler?

This is because the pressure jumps in the supply network. And if the water is "own" and connected directly to the pump - this is generally a normal phenomenon. If the pressure permits, you need to put a reducer at the cold water inlet and adjust it to the minimum pressure in the network, which is in the network, but not less than 1 bar. If the pressure in the network not only jumps, but also less than 1 bar, only a device with a closed chamber and electronic temperature stabilization or replacing it with a boiler will help. You can connect a relatively small electric boiler (30L) in series with the existing apparatus to smooth out temperature fluctuations. Set the boiler thermostat to the temperature that you usually set on the column, so that when the device is operating, the electric heating does not turn on.

What can be measured there if it is not clear what power? Rates are measured at minimum and maximum power. And then there is no power. And therefore, there could not be any “norm” there. The reason is most likely a weakened gas valve spring. And it is not supplied separately.

Malfunction of the gas column Electrolux GWH 265 Nano Plus. For some reason, it stopped turning on correctly, I open the water to the maximum and I stand, I probably wait for about 30 seconds until it turns on, sometimes even more. Sometimes it turns on faster, if you stand in front of it and turn both taps, it can ignite, and each time the valves are in different positions, no scheme can be traced. I've been suffering for a week now.
It was purchased and installed last year, installed by the master. Can someone tell me what the problem might be? Is it possible to fix it yourself? A colossal amount of water is consumed if hot water is needed. The display is also unresponsive. When there is a spark, the column immediately turns on and works without problems.

Disassemble the water block and check the insides and membrane. As well as a stem for galling and a microswitch. When manually pressing the microswitch, a spark should appear.

We installed an Electrolux GWH 265 ERN NanoPlus column, connected it to the gas, in general, the problem is that the water is cold, although everything seems to work, the electronics always show no more than 20 degrees. I tried to change the gas and water modes, nothing helps! What could it be?

Why overpay when you could buy an oasis, comfort, vector with the same filling.

Malfunction of the Electrolux 275 gas column, you turn on the hot water, everything lights up and works for 5-7 minutes after which there is a click in it and it goes out together with the igniter. Tell me what is the problem?

There is no hood or no air flow or the heat exchanger is clogged.

A 15-year-old Electrolux gas water heater is in operation, recently it has cleaned the lamellas of the heat exchanger, the burner nozzles. Good condition. The problem is in the cotton of the gas mixture when the machine is turned on. I'm afraid it will not blow up. Traction is good. I noticed that when the main burner is turned on, the flame of the wick is reduced by 1/2, and when the burner lights up, it is restored. Should it be so? Or this is the reason for the late ignition of the gas mixture.

There is not enough gas. You haven't turned on the gas cock completely.

The gas water heater gwh 275 is in operation. The problem is as follows, I rent an apartment, the repair was not completed there, I finished it, and the column was turned off, because of my inexperience in this matter, I mistakenly connected the gas to the cold water supply.After that, I quickly changed the hoses in places, and everything worked, but on New Year's holidays I did not appear in the apartment and the gas and water were turned off and not used for two weeks. Now the problem is the following, the ignition burner lights up, but when switching to the main one it immediately goes out.

EMC in water, i.e. rusted a little. Take out, wipe, dry.

Malfunction of the gas water heater Electrolux 285 Nano Pro. She is 5 years old, for all the time she changed only the heat exchanger 3 times, the last six months ago. The problem is the following, I turn the gas level regulator, light the igniter, it burns very well, I try to switch to the mode of turning on the main burner, and a little before reaching the first mode (conditionally winter), the fuse goes out! Today I went through the entire column, the heat exchanger is clean, the water pressure is strong, it cleared everything I could of soot. I couldn't make out the frog. Previously, there were problems that after a click, the gas valve turned off, but there was no such thing that did not turn on at all. Could it be a gas level regulator? Visually, he's fine.

And they forgot about the thrust sensor. Try to short-circuit it.

The Electrolux 275 column is in operation, the igniter is weakly lit. Carbon deposits are believed to have formed. How and what can be cleaned?

It is necessary to remove the igniter jet and clean it with some hair, or with a wire.

For many years I have been using the Electrolux 285 Nanopro column, I cleaned the heat exchanger several times, everything was fine, until the last time. As the temperature rises with the lower regulator, the water pressure drops sharply. What could be the reason? And immediately question number 2, it happens, occasionally leaks directly from the lower regulator, somehow disassembled, cleaned the membrane, and stopped flowing for six months, but now it leaks again sometimes, maybe you need to replace the membrane? Or just disassemble and clean in the same way? For the last week and a half, I simply do not tighten the lower handle to a vertical position, and the resulting lukewarm flight water is already tightened with the upper one to obtain the required temperature, thus the pressure does not decrease and the water is hot, I hope this does not harm in any way.

If it is very strong, then there is rubbish. There are small holes, they must be clean. Disassemble this plastic piece in your hands, remove the rubber ring, wind up a few turns of the fumka, so that you can still collect / shove in and will still serve. Twist less often. Place the upper knob on the first / low flame (if everything is normal with the gas pressure), set the desired temperature with the lower knob. These columns with flame modulation, and after such a setting, the water can be opened not for all, but as much as necessary (just not a drop) and the water will be the same temperature as set.

I changed the heat exchanger (drip), when checking, a leak was found at the outlet of the "frog" to the heat exchanger. There was no leak before the replacement, the leak was not on the nut. What could be the problem?

When assembled, center it by holding on to the heat exchanger tube. And to be sure, remove the fitting and wind the fumki under the rubber ring so that you can still shove it in place.

And so, no matter how slowly the rod lowers, how can a spark appear without recharging? During operation, the spark is silent (otherwise the column would be turned off).
1) If you remove it from the rod without disconnecting the wires (the water is off at this moment), then the ignition starts clicking without stopping, you press the flag with your hand, turns it off, release it - it works again.
2) If the switch on the dispenser opens the water, the gas is ignited, I remove the switch from the apparatus, I press it with my hand, the water continues to flow, I do not block it, the gas turns off, I release the flag, the ignition clicks, the gas ignites, after firing up the ignition is turned off.

Malfunction of the gas water heater Electrolux GWH 265 ERN NanoPlus. After 3 months of work, it began to give an error E0. Means, as far as I understand, water overheating. Is it possible to do something about it yourself or do you need to contact a service center? In general, the air is released, the delay is 2-3 seconds. I don't know if it's okay or not.Water pressure: cold 10 liters runs in 50 seconds, hot 1 min. 37 sec.
In principle, everything suits me. I just want the problems with overheating and pipe breakage not to recur.

So reduce gas, add water / flow (right knob). And if there is no overheating on the thermometer, then the sensor is to blame - to close, not such an important thing. For a 30 meter pipe, I think it's okay. Try to shut off the water inlet to the column, it will go out faster.

Malfunction of the gas column Electrolux 265 Nano Plus. Loud noise inside the mechanism in pilot flame mode, as if high pressure gas was escaping from a small hole. What can be done?

There is a window for air intake on the igniter, you need to cover / wrap it with foil.

Installed column Electrolux. It does not light up in any way (from batteries, I have already changed them, I checked the connections). There is not even a characteristic sparkling sound, as I understand it. He took off the lid, it was set on fire by the match, but it burns and goes out for 2-4 seconds. As far as I understand, something is wrong with the ignition. The display shows an E1 error.

Apparently the thermocouple is defective.

The gas water heater Electrolux GWH 275 is in operation. Six months ago, a problem arose - after turning off the gas with the upper handle, the wick did not extinguish for minutes 2. Then it passed. Now it repeated with greater force. The wick does not go out at all. I extinguish it, turning off the tap at the entrance. If you open the tap with the top handle in the off position, the wick ignites from the piezo. Concomitant circumstances, although after does not mean in the investigation. Immediately before that, I mixed up the hoses and ran water into the gas main. On the first floor, when trying to turn on the stove, the water gurgled. I live on the second, it didn't come to that. What could have happened?

The thermocouple cools down, the solenoid valve closes the gas. If you can, disassemble the EHR, wipe it, dry it and collect it. If the valve starts to shut off without fire, then you don't need anything else. Blew out
wick, after a few seconds the gas will shut off. The EMC is located at the back of the gas part, where, as it were, the wire goes. Fastened with two wrench screws 8.

Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.

The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.

This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but the principle of operation is the same.

A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up. With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.

To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.

Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems. Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.

To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.

It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.

Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Adjusting the water flow - the closer to the maximum, the greater the flow, therefore, the water is colder.
Winter / Summer - the mode of using the speaker at different times of the year. In winter, the power is greater than in summer.

Not all masters know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.

• Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
• Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
• Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
• Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature. Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
• When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.

In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).

This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.

When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.

With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.

The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.

This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.

Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.

There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.

The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.

This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).

The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle). Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.

Cheap but time consuming and laborious process... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.

The following materials and tools will help us with this:

• open-end wrenches (set);
• screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
• paronite gaskets (set);
• rubber hose;
• vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.

To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:

• first, we block the access of cold water;
• then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
• remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
• we open the "hot" tap;
• unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;

After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.

Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.

1. The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
2. The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney. If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
3. To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
4. If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.

Failure of the igniter system can occur from poor pressure water. Open any tap with cold water and check the pressure, if it is weak, you can call the ZhEK and find out what the problem is.

If the column does not ignite when water is supplied or only turns on at a very high pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which, due to wear, reacts poorly to the water passing through it. In this case, it must be replaced.

This is a temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the gas column during operation, preventing it from overheating.

A temperature sensor is installed on each gas column, which makes sure that the column does not overheat in the event of a failure the column may turn off spontaneously during operation... It usually looks like this:

After normal operation, for some time, the heater “stalls” for 20 minutes. After this time, it can be turned on for the same period of time. The malfunction, as a rule, is seasonal and appears only in summer or winter with closed windows.

The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up... This can happen when the sensor wire is shorted to the body. Check wires are intact and well insulated.

In order to check the sensor itself for operability, two contacts should be removed from it and short-circuited with a needle, a paper clip, a piece of tin. If the gas appliance turns on and works, the sensor must be changed.

If you see similar spots on your column, then be sure that it is leaking and needs repair.

This malfunction can occur mainly in gas water heaters that have been operating for a long time. The two main reasons for the leak are:

Tubes (bends) or gaskets in the joints are cracked.
Replacing a radiator or taps is quite expensive. Therefore, there is a reason to repair the gas column on your own. For repairs you need:

• screwdrivers (cross and regular);
• open-end wrenches (set);
• solder with rosin;
• a vacuum cleaner;
• solvent;
• "Skin".

Due to the harsh operating conditions, the radiator or bends can burn out and holes appear on them.If you have determined where the leak is, then you can repair the small hole with an ordinary soldering iron.

Preparing the gas water heater for repair

• Drain all liquid from the system - open only the hot water tap, unscrew the nut on the cold water inlet pipe, and most of the water will flow out;
• Remove the radiator completely;
• Examine the entire tube. - if you see "greenery" - clean and inspect these places for cracks.

Soldering a heat exchanger does not always give good results, here a lot depends on your skill. If the soldering is poor, the heat exchanger will quickly flow again.

When you have found the leaks, you need to do the following:

• clean the holes found with "sandpaper" and immediately wipe it with a cloth and solvent (this will remove the remaining grease, carbon deposits and dirt);
• using rosin with solder, tin this place with a 100 watt iron (in the absence of rosin, use aspirin);
• rub the crack or hole with solder, and after it cools down, add more tin (the layer should be 1-2 mm).

Replacing flexible hoses of this type does not require special skills; anyone can do it with a wrench.

Very often, leaks are formed in the places where the outlets are connected to the heater from the outside or to the internal assemblies of the column. All connections are made by "American" with gaskets inside.

Due to constant heating / cooling, the rubberized liners either melt or lose their properties and harden. Cracks appear in them, along which water flows.
If you notice a gas column leak in such connections, then replace the gaskets. Using a wrench (mostly 24), unscrew the nut and replace.

It also happens that the flanges on the pipes crack over time - in this case, you need to replace the entire pipes.

Be sure to change the batteries in the gas water heater in time, because if they are dead, your column will start to emit pops when it is turned on. Also, due to dead batteries, the column may turn off spontaneously.

These startup and operating sounds indicate the following:

• a little air got into the system (into the burner) due to the low gas pressure, which generated a microexplosion;
• the flame breaks down due to the high pressure of the gas;
• nozzle blockage;
• low draft of ventilation;
• the batteries are dead.

On your own, you can only eliminate the malfunctions described in the last two points.

This can happen for several reasons.

• The simplest reason is incorrectly selected gas water heater... You have saved money and bought a low power heater that is unable to meet your hot water needs.
• The second reason is the low gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas workers to check the system.
• The third reason is the usual blockage (jet, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some types of which are described above. You can check this by the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.

You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column yourself.