Gas column proton 3 DIY repair

In detail: geyser proton 3 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The "Proton" gas water heater is a product of the Tula plant "Vanadium-Tulachermet". Their production was established within eight years - 1990-1998. These domestic devices are durable and reliable - many of them still safely heat water for the household needs of their owners.

The Tula company "Vanadium-Tulachermet" works for the needs of the metallurgical industry, producing flux-cored wire, chromium carbide and other products required in this industry. The plant no longer produces gas water heaters, only heat exchangers and other spare parts that may be needed for their operation.

For eight years of production of gas water heaters, the Tula enterprise has produced five series PROTON 1, 1M, 2, 3, 4. Having not exhausted their resource over the years of operation, these devices need replacement of parts and assemblies, repair and maintenance. You can buy these speakers only second-hand, but spare parts are still produced now, however, in limited quantities. Everything you need for Proton speakers can be purchased at specialized stores. If necessary, you can replace any element - heat exchanger tubes, membranes, hydraulic unit and much more.

In order to increase the efficiency and durability of its speakers, the Tula manufacturer used imported parts in their production - to complete automatic circuits. All modifications are equipped with filters - at the inlets of water and gas pipes. The connection diagram is standard and does not raise any questions.

• Tap water is supplied inside the heat exchanger (or deep water from a well). Its pressure should be at the level of 2-2.5 kg / cm².

Video (click to play).

• Water warmed up to the temperature set by the user is sent to the DHW system.

• The fuel goes to the solenoid valve, which is responsible for stopping its supply in the event of a device malfunction or a critical drop in fuel pressure.

• The gas is directed to the reducer, which reduces its pressure to normal. Then he finds himself in the central burner, which is ignited by the ignition devices.

• Switching on begins by pressing the button - it is held for several seconds.

• The gas is then fed to the pilot and to the auxiliary burner.

• Switching on is carried out by means of a piezo ignition connected to a candle.

• When the button is pushed in, sparking occurs, igniting the auxiliary burners.

• After some time, an EMF appears at the ends of the thermocouple, which opens the way for the fuel.

• If you press the second button "Open", blue fuel is directed to the place of its combustion.

• When the button is pressed, a spark jumps between the spark plug and the body, igniting the auxiliary burners.

• After a few seconds, an EMF appears at the ends of the thermocouple, which keeps the valve responsible for the gas supply open.

• If you press the second button "Open", the gas is directed to the main burner.

• Stable temperature of heated water is provided by a water reducer. Thanks to the throughput system, it is possible to stabilize the parameters at the same level. The user sets the temperature by means of a mechanical regulator. In the modification "Proton 1M-1" there is a thermometer - the user can control the heating.

• Shutdown is performed by pressing "Extinguishing" - it has a mechanical connection with "Ignition" and "Opening". When the first click is heard, the central burner turns off - this is switching, the device goes into the "Duty" mode - there is only a flame in the igniter.

• To turn off the standby mode and put the device into operation, you just need to turn the DHW tap.

Production designation VPG-1712-V11-UHL4.2. Dimensions - 71.9x36x23 cm (height / width / depth). The device weighs a little - 13.5 kg. Heated water is dispensed at a rate of 5 l / min.

17 kW. 15 kg - weight. The technical characteristics are the same as in the previous version. They differed in their lower cost. The price reduction was achieved by simplifying the design of the gas-water unit. There are no reducers - therefore, there is no stability of the parameters. A thermometer is also not provided. On the facade - a push-button piezo-ignition lever and a mechanical regulator.

The device can operate at low pressure in water pipes - this fact is important for consumers without centralized water supply. The minimum is set with an adjusting screw located directly on the water reducer.

Constructive simplicity and the absence of blockers is a fact that forces users to follow the instructions of the instructions as accurately as possible. It is strictly forbidden to ignite the main burner if the DHW taps are open. This situation causes the accumulation of fuel in the column - if you then turn on the piezo ignition, it can explode.

Their power is 17 kW. They weigh 15 kg and heat 5 liters of water every minute. The functional and electrical diagram and protection systems are the same as in the previous models. But when compared with the 1M modification, the third model has several disadvantages:

Holding the push-button lever has increased tenfold - you have to hold it for half a minute.
There is no gas reducer - you cannot monitor how the pressure in the gas pipeline changes. The result is that it is not possible to stabilize the heating in the hot water supply; it is difficult for the owners of such a column to wash comfortably.
Pushbutton levers are not strong enough and tend to break.

Plus - a low price with a fairly reliable automatic protection.

The fire can be extinguished due to:

lack of fuel;
blowing out the fire with the wind;
faulty thermocouple.

If the thermocouple does not heat up, the voltage level at the ends is zero, this causes the fuel path to close. The solution to the issue depends on the reason that caused it.

A decrease in the outflow of heated gas is observed. The temperature of the coolant rises - when it reaches 90 degrees, the thermostat breaks the electrical circuit, and without voltage the device turns off. The reasons for this situation:

The chimney is clogged - it needs cleaning.
Any damage has occurred - you will need to do it yourself.

The tightness of the heat exchanger is broken. It heats up quickly. When the temperature rises above 130 ° C, the thermostat fuse melts - the electrical circuit breaks, there is no voltage - everything goes out.

This situation can occur due to work on the gas pipeline. The consequence is the extinction of the igniter. The thermocouple, without generating EMF, blocks the path of the fuel. How to light a column? To resume the operation of the device, you need to turn it on again in the traditional way.

Lack of water usually happens in high-rise buildings - this situation happens during peak hours on the top floors. In private housing construction, there are also interruptions in water - due to a decrease in the productivity of wells and malfunctions at water intake stations. Emergency prevention is provided by a water regulator that equalizes the pressure and turns off the flame. The device switches to standby mode.

To troubleshoot, you need to know how the water heater works. It is in new water heaters that displays that show error codes are used. And the owners of Tula dispensers have to rely on their sense of smell - is there a suspicious smell, indicating a leak of gaseous fuel. If a smell appears, the first thing to do is turn off the device and close the gas pipeline valve - before entering it.

The main thing is not to do anything that could cause sparks. It is forbidden:

kindle a fire;
turn on lights and electrical appliances.

It is necessary to open windows and doors to let in fresh air. The gas-air mixture is explosive - one spark is enough to cause an explosion.

Check for leaks with soapy water. The most frequent place of leaks in Tula water heaters is a plug valve installed at the inlet. This is due to the drying out of the lubricant and leakage. To fix the problem, you need:

turn off the gas and disassemble the valve;
with kerosene or another solvent, the remnants of the old grease are removed;
if there are scratches on the tap cone, they need to be sanded;
generously apply thick grease;
put the tap back in place and tighten the threaded connection firmly;

How to check if the tap is tightened securely? Perform a control check - repeatedly turn the valve in a circle.

If a leak occurs at the pipe joints, tighten the couplings and nuts more firmly.

Common problems and how to fix them:

Leak at the place of the liner. Replace gaskets. Tighten the nuts.
Switching on occurs only when the pressure in the water pipes reaches 2 atm. Most likely, the matter is in the membranes of the water reducer. With use, they become less elastic and cease to perform their functions - they need to be replaced with new ones.
The pilot flame turned yellow instead of purple. The gas filter at the burner inlet is probably dirty - it is made of metal wire. It needs to be cleaned. In general, the filter and wick are cleaned every six months. If this is not done in a timely manner, the thermocouple will wear out.

There are practically no reviews as such about old water heaters, the time of their purchase fell on the 90s. If information about rare Tula products appears on the network, then it is associated with advantages with questions - how to improve their work or how to find the necessary spare part. For example:

"Proton-3": Efim D., Vereshchagino

My old water heater is connected to a water pipe with a flexible hose - a cross section of about 5 mm. If you want to get a bath, you need to wait half an hour, no less. While the water is being collected, it is already not very hot, it still has time to cool down. So I'm thinking - if I change 5 mm to 10 - will I be able to get more pressure from the hot tap?

Proton M: Ilya Ch., Verkhneuralsk

I once bought the creation of Tula craftsmen from JSC with the amazing name “Vannadiytulachermet” in my Khrushchev building. Moreover, the instructions said that it was assembled under a Japanese license, but for some reason from Eastern European components. Anyway. I connected it to the pipes with flexible hoses and started using hot water. True, this did not last long - soon the thrust sensor flew and the device stopped igniting. On the advice of the master, it was safely unscrewed - supposedly it breaks down for everyone, but you can live without it. I lived a year without a sensor - everything is fine. But it was the turn of the solenoid valve - it began to click and extinguish the wick. I had to wash with an assistant - one washes, the second sets fire to the wick if it goes out. In general, my torment lasted until I raised money and bought the Swedish Electrolux, which I advise you.

The gas water heaters of the Tula plant are real "dinosaurs" of heating equipment. However, they continue to serve their owners, as they have a large margin of physical strength. Their main drawback is inconsistency with the modern view of security. In the products of the new generation, the very possibility of an accident is excluded - a multi-level protection system is used. The manufacturing plant stopped producing irrelevant products long ago, and if you are offered such a device, think about the problems it faces you.

Let's say right away that repairing a gas water heater, like any other gas equipment, is a matter exclusively for professionals. But, although repairing speakers with your own hands is not allowed, knowledge is not superfluous. The ability to determine on your own what exactly has broken down, how this breakdown threatens, and what the repair can be will not interfere with anyone. What breakdowns of gas water heaters are there, and what "symptoms" are they accompanied by?

At first glance, repairs may seem difficult

To begin with, before getting acquainted with the basics of troubleshooting, it is not out of place to find out how the gas water heater is arranged, the repair will largely depend on the device. We will not delve into the intricacies of the device of many speaker models, we will limit ourselves only to acquaintance with the general principles.

Centralized hot water supply appeared relatively recently by historical standards. The issue of heating water at home was solved in various ways, but the most common one we had was a storage solid fuel heater - the so-called titanium. Titanium was fired with coal, less often with wood or fuel oil. The water in the boiler had to be warmed up in advance. So taking a bath had to spend at least an hour. Of course, using such a device was very inconvenient. The problem of fast heating of water was solved in gas water heaters.

Gas water heater device

The work of the geyser consists in heating tap water with gas from the city main. To speed up the heating process, a heat exchanger serves, in which the water flow is distributed through a system of thin tubes located directly above the gas burner. Due to this, it is possible to heat the water quickly enough, right in the process of use, there is no need to pre-accumulate the heated water in the tank.

This is the fundamental device of the gas water heater, all the rest of the filling serves to ignite the gas, regulate the heating of the water, and also ensure safety.

The main burner is ignited:

From the igniter. The constantly burning igniter, in turn, is turned on by piezo ignition (automatic or manual from a button) or manually ignited from a match. Unless, of course, you are lucky enough to get ownership of such a rarity.
Piezo ignition without igniter.
Electronic ignition. By its structure, electronic ignition is similar to the ignition of a car.

Security systems are:

Mechanical. Almost any column, even stuffed with electronics, is equipped with a simple device - a mechanical connection between a membrane in a water intake device and a valve in a gas pipe. The gas valve only opens when the water pressure pushes against the diaphragm with sufficient force. The principle is simple: no water - no gas is supplied to the burner, turn on the water - the burner turns on.

The column may not work for many reasons. Now we will tell you about the most common ones.

There may be several reasons why the gas column does not light up. First of all, make sure the pilot is on. If the igniter does not work, call the gasman from the public service, he will replace or clean the igniter jet.

In columns with electronic ignition, if ignition has not occurred, the gas supply is cut off by a valve, which the user is informed about by the corresponding indicator. Study the instructions (which you should have studied before turning on the column for the first time), perhaps the problem can be solved with your own hands by simply replacing the battery. Otherwise, contact the manufacturer.

Another reason that the gas column does not ignite may be the lack of draft in the ventilation shaft. You can check the draft by holding a sheet of paper or a lighted match to the ventilation grill. If there is no draft, you can eliminate the blockage of the ventilation well with your own hands, or by contacting the utilities.

Warm water will not give a lighted column

Another reason for burner failure is deterioration of the water diaphragm. The membrane deforms over time from constant loads, the burner switching device loses sensitivity when water is supplied and does not work.Unfortunately, nothing can be done about this, even in the columns of serious Western manufacturers, the membranes have to be changed every 5-7 years.

Try to open the water tap to the maximum, if the column is turned on at maximum pressure, then it is the membrane that will have to be replaced. It is also necessary to check the filter that is equipped with the water intake of the column. Insufficient water pressure to open the gas valve may be due to a clogged filter. The water filter does not belong to gas equipment, and you can replace it yourself.

Finally, the column may not light up due to improper operation of the bimetallic sensors. They will be discussed below.If the column ignites, but goes out, the culprit is most likely a bimetallic temperature sensor, designed to protect the column from overheating. A malfunction usually has two manifestations:

The burner lights up, the column works normally for a while, after which it goes out and does not work for some time - attempts to ignite the results do not give results. After 15-20 minutes, the column can be turned on again, the burner lights up, and then again, after about the same period of time, it goes out again. This happens due to the "innate" increased sensitivity of the sensor.

It also happens that the column goes out at the most inopportune momentIn principle, this is a warranty case, but the fact is that the problem is seasonal in nature and arises during the heat of summer or winter, when the windows in the kitchen are constantly closed. In both cases, the air temperature is elevated and the column is not cooled properly. It may happen that the problem will manifest itself when the warranty period expires. Alas, in this case, the repair will have to be done at your own expense.

Disconnections of the column are chaotic, the device sometimes does not light up at all. Such behavior of the heater may indicate deterioration of the insulation of the sensor conductor. A short to the body occurs, causing the safety valve to operate. It is useless to call the gasman - the problem is not in the gas part, you should also not try to fix it with your own hands. For repairs, it is better to contact the manufacturer of this model or to the service center.

If the gas supply occurs, it means that the water pressure in the water intake is normal, the problem is in the blockage of the heat exchanger with scale. One of the reasons may be "idle" combustion of the igniter for a long time. The igniter has enough time to heat the heat exchanger, causing active evaporation of the remaining water. The formed scale is not washed out due to the lack of water flow and until the next turn-on of the column has time to "grab", the result - the column does not work. Repair consists in cleaning or replacing the heat exchanger.Scale-clogged heat exchanger Reduce water pressurePossible reasons are as follows:

The gas pressure is too high, the burner ignites too actively, as a result of which the flame breaks out.
The gas pressure is too weak, air gets inside the burner, which is accompanied by a microexplosion.

The burner needs cleaning and adjustment. In principle, nothing complicated, but you do not need to take on this work with your own hands, the repair of the gas water heater should be carried out by a specialist.Insufficient heating of water can be associated with a low power of the column. Do not turn on the hot tap in the bathtub, sink and kitchen at the same time, or buy a more powerful unit.An incorrectly selected column will not have time to heat the waterAnother possible cause could be a clogged burner, as indicated by a yellow flame. Call a gasman, a specialist will solve this problem in an hour.This is already serious and threatens with the most dire consequences. Turn off the column immediately, turn off the gas supply valve, provide constant ventilation in the room, call the emergency service (104) and wait for the arrival of the brigade.In conclusion, once again I would like to remind you of security.Do not try to disassemble, clean or repair gas equipment yourself. This is a job for qualified professionals only.We need a radiator for a gas column "Proton-3"
Tell me where you can get a radiator for the "Proton-3" gas column.
The plant collapsed, there is no more support. It's hard to get it. Local plumbers call the price 2500 rubles.And by and large, set in Yandex the key phrase "repair of Proton gas columns" and purposefully call.Ignition in the column Proton 1M. Zadolbal.
Has anyone defeated this firing up?
Visually - the design is such that the spark from the piezo lighter is very far from the burner.
I want to attach the structure and bend the tip of the lighter so that the spark hits closer.
And yet - the spark seems to be isolated from the burner by a partition, it is like it fits in a box, maybe on purpose.
What if you just make a hole in this partition so that the gas is more suitable for the lighter.
Please do not offer to replace the column. Image - Gas column proton 3 DIY repair

Column - Proton 1M.

Pastuh wrote:
Has anyone defeated this firing up?

The problem with fast firing may not be in the column. The fact is that if you turn off the gas valve in front of the dispenser for a more or less long time, then after opening it, it takes time until the gas displaces air from the pipeline (hose). It is best not to extinguish the igniter at all

Paletsky wrote:
after opening it, it takes time for the gas to displace air from the pipeline (hose).

I thought about it too. In short, I was poking around for two hours yesterday. I didn’t begin to work on the collective farm, it’s cramped there, in this unit, and the details are frail, I’m afraid to smuggle them. I decided that the gas jet from the pilot was very strong and shaped due to, possibly, high pressure. Well, it’s like it bursts out of a jet engine nozzle and flies past the spark. I began to bend the tubes, the electrodes of the lighter. I reached the point that it stopped igniting at all. Brought it all back with difficulty

... Now it lights up as it wants - when immediately, when from the second time, when from the twentieth. I have developed a whole shamanic ritual

- blow through the window with all your might, etch the gas, then only strike a spark.
About 5 years ago here, on the forum, like the archive was with manuals, I saw a manual on Proton there, with diagrams and principles of work. How to get to it, nobody knows?

Any professional will tell you: "a gas water heater is a potentially dangerous equipment, so you can only entrust its maintenance and repair to a qualified specialist." However, the ability to understand which element is out of order and what it can lead to will definitely not hurt.

DIY geyser repair

In addition, you can deal with the elimination of some malfunctions that do not specifically affect gas equipment on your own. Read the description of typical breakdowns and recommendations for action in case of their detection.

Gas column device

Equipment can stop igniting for several reasons.

Gas column device

First of all, you must make sure that the igniter is working properly. If it does not light up, contact your gas service. A specialist will clean or replace the failed element. You cannot touch it yourself - it is dangerous.

Gas column device diagram

In modern units with electronic ignition, in the absence of ignition, gas ceases to be supplied - it is cut off by a valve. The user becomes aware of this through the corresponding indicator. In some situations, this problem can be solved by simply replacing the battery. Check this point in the instructions. If the manufacturer does not give such recommendations, it is better to immediately contact the gas service or a third-party repair service.

At one point, the column may not light up

Battery pack for igniting the column

The column will not light up if there is no ventilation draft. To check the level of traction, we bring a strip of paper to the ventilation grill.If the leaf does not change its position, or if it does not change it sufficiently, there are obvious problems with craving. In apartment buildings, utilities are engaged in cleaning ventilation wells - contact them. You can do this yourself with the help of a metal brush tied to a flexible wire (hose, etc.) of a suitable length, however, utilities usually do not approve of such unauthorized actions.

Burners often fail to fire due to diaphragm wear. This structural element deforms rather quickly, the burner starting mechanism becomes less sensitive and does not work when the water is turned on. Even in expensive heaters, membranes wear out in 5-8 years - unfortunately, nothing can be done about this.

Often burners do not fire due to diaphragm wear

To check, turn on the water to maximum. If the column turns on with a strong pressure, the problem is definitely in the membrane. Replacement of this element can be done on your own.

To do this, do the following:

unscrew the fastening nuts from the water unit (usually there are 2 of them);
unscrew the fastening screws, due to which the water unit is held in the gas unit (usually 3 screws);
detach the halves of the assembly and you will see a rubber membrane. If it is not flat but noticeably deformed, replace it. To do this, buy a similar product from a specialized store. If possible, give preference to a silicone membrane - it will last much longer than its simple rubber counterpart.

At the same stage, you can check the condition of the water intake filter. If it is clogged, clean it or replace it with a new one. To clean, simply unscrew the nut from the water supply side, take out the mesh and rinse it or replace it with a new one, depending on the condition.

If the heater turns on but goes out, the problem in most situations is the bimetallic temperature sensor needed to protect the equipment from overheating. Also, due to malfunctions of this element, the heater may not turn on at all.

This problem has 2 main development scenarios.

According to the first scenario, the burner lights up properly, the equipment functions for some time without any complaints, and then goes out and for some time does not show any signs of life - attempts to ignite the heater do not lead to anything. Usually, after 20-30 minutes, the equipment turns on again and history repeats itself. This is due to the excessive sensitivity of the sensor. As a rule, it is "congenital", i.e. this is a factory defect. It is extremely difficult to do something on your own. It is better to immediately contact the manufacturer's service for warranty repairs.
According to the second scenario, the column may turn off randomly, and sometimes not turn on at all. The reason usually lies in the wear of the insulating material of the conductor of the bimetallic sensor. There is a banal short circuit to the case, as a result of which the safety valve is triggered, and the column begins to behave abnormally.

Contact the service center for warranty repair

It makes no sense to turn to gas workers - the defect is clearly not a "gas" one. You also don't need to try to get rid of the breakdown yourself - you can only break the unit. Contact the service center for warranty repairs.

Water comes out with a weak pressure

Most often this happens due to clogging of the column heat exchanger with scale. Prolonged “idle” ignitions of the igniter are usually the cause of clogging. The device heats up the heat exchanger to a temperature sufficient to cause the remaining moisture to evaporate.

There is no water flow, scale is not washed out of the heat exchanger, until the next turn on of the equipment, it sets, as a result of which the column ceases to function normally. Cleaning the heat exchanger usually saves. In advanced cases, it has to be changed.

For replacement, it is better to immediately contact the professionals, but you can handle the cleaning on your own. Prepare screwdrivers, rubber hose, open-end wrenches and paranite gaskets. Purchase a descaling mixture from a hardware store. Usually it is called that - antiscale. A more budgetary option is rinsing with vinegar essence. Work in this order.

First step. Remove the fittings and the casing from the heater one after the other.

Second step. Turn off the inlet water and open a hot water tap, preferably as close as possible from the column.

Step three. Unscrew the water supply pipe from the heat exchanger and then move it to the side. After unscrewing the nut, the column heat exchanger will begin to release water. In total, about 1 liter of it will be drained.

Fourth step. Place a hose of a suitable diameter on the inlet of the heat exchanger and lift it just above the heater. Insert an ordinary funnel into the fixed hose and start slowly pouring in the prepared solution in a thin stream (instructions for preparation are given on the package). There is no need to rush. If you pour it too quickly, the antikipine will simply push it back out, and you are unlikely to like it.

Flushing the gas column heat exchanger

Leave the cleaning agent in the heat exchanger of the heater for 2-3 hours (usually the required time is indicated on the packaging).

Place a suitable container under the water tap and carefully re-feed the heater. Observe what comes out of the hose. Was there a lot of slurry coming out, and then the head returned to normal? Things are good. Otherwise, flushing will have to be repeated. Usually, the need for re-rinsing arises only when using vinegar essence. Anti-scale in most situations copes with the first time.

In such a situation, it is better to immediately contact a professional. He will perform the adjustment, which is extremely difficult to make without knowledge of the matter, and the column will start working normally.

You can find out the reasons for the appearance of such a malfunction for general development. There are two main reasons:

the gas comes under too much pressure. The heater ignites too actively, which leads to the breakdown of the fire;
the gas flow is too low. Air enters the heater burner, resulting in a microexplosion, which is interpreted by human hearing as cotton.

The column does not heat up the water sufficiently

This usually happens due to the insufficient power of the gas column. The user begins to demand more from the equipment than it can do.

There are two options for solving the problem:

we stop abusing and do not open hot taps at the same time at all points of the water intake;
buying a more powerful speaker.

Also, inadequate heating of the liquid can occur due to the clogging of the burner. Look at the color of the fire. Under normal conditions, it is bluish. If the flame turns yellow, contact the gas industry. Such repairs can only be entrusted to a professional, tk. this is already a "gas" breakdown.

The problem is more than serious. Don't even think about any hand-made repairs. Turn off the heater, turn off the gas cock, ensure that there is adequate ventilation at all times, and call the gas service immediately. The arriving team will assess the problem and take appropriate action.

Now you know the main malfunctions of the gas column, and you know how to behave when they appear. The main thing is to remember about safety. There is no need to try to fix breakdowns for which you do not have enough qualifications - this can lead to irreparable consequences.

Despite the widest range of electrical heating appliances on the market, the gas water heater is still one of the most popular means of heating a house and providing it with hot water. This is a fairly economical option, since it allows you to simultaneously provide several drainage points in the house.Another advantage of gas water heaters can be considered the fact that they allow you to use hot water, practically unlimited, without any restrictions.The geyser device looks like this.

Water flow regulator.

Chimney connection.

Power control.

Heat exchanger.

Water node.

Exhaust hood.

Switch.

Rear panel.

Diaphragm gas valve.

Ignition.

Gas unit.

Perhaps you will also be interested in an article about gas heating boilers, read more about them hereTwo pipes are connected to the gas column. The first of them is designed for gas supply, the second - for cold water supply. In addition, a pair of burners is located at the bottom, one auxiliary and one main.Important! The device of the gas column can be different, depending on the method of ignition - it (ignition) can be electronic, manual and using a piezoelectric element. Image - Gas column proton 3 DIY repair

Such devices are designed to provide domestic and industrial facilities with hot water. The essence of their work is quite simple: cold water from the pipeline enters the column heat exchanger, where it is heated by burners (they are located under the heat exchanger). As you know, fire needs oxygen, therefore, so that the burners do not go out, the column is connected to the ventilation system of the house / apartment. The exhaust gas is eliminated by means of a special chimney, which is combined exclusively with a gas water heater.

Read about what to look for when choosing a water heater here

All the described types of columns function somewhat differently.

So, if the device is turned on manually, that is, the gas has to be ignited with matches, the burner will ignite from the fact that you turn the fuel supply valve. Although it is worth noting that such designs have become outdated a long time ago. Modern designs are equipped with either an electronic ignition or a piezoelectric element.

New models are activated at the touch of a button located on the front panel of the device. Piezo ignition creates a spark that ignites the pilot. In the future, everything happens in automatic mode - the tap opens, the column lights up, hot water begins to flow.

If the gas water heater is fired up electronically, then it is perhaps the most reliable and durable device. The system is turned on by means of a pair of batteries supplying the charge necessary for the formation of a spark. No buttons, no matches, the only thing you need to do to turn it on is to turn on the tap. In most cases, batteries last a very long time because the energy required to charge is minimal.

How to calculate gas consumption for heating a house - read here

The use of gas water heaters, however, like any other equipment, is accompanied by malfunctions, frequent or rare. At the same time, there are such malfunctions that can only be eliminated by specialists who have the necessary knowledge and admission for this. But there are those that can be easily eliminated with your own hands, so we will consider them.

Video - sensor malfunction

If the internal elements of the device are covered with soot or dirt, then this can also lead to failure. To solve this problem, you must remove the outer casing of the device, then clean each of the elements using a vacuum cleaner.

The next sign that the gas column has stopped working correctly may be the burner decay immediately after switching on. This happens due to the fact that the ventilation channel is clogged. Modern models of gas water heaters are equipped in such a case with special sensors that will inform the owner if there is no traction. After that, immediately turn off the gas supply. Next, the chimney should be checked. For this, the plug is dismantled and everything that has accumulated there is removed.

Important! You can check the draft of the chimney in the old "old-fashioned" way: bring a lighted match to it. If the fire on the match deflects in the direction of the chimney, then everything is in order with it. If this did not happen, then he needs a complete cleaning.

It is for this reason that the gas water heater should be inspected annually - this is the only way it will work correctly.

We also advise you to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements.

Modern gas water heaters are small and compact, so they can be placed in almost any convenient place. Their service life depends largely on how correctly they are installed and used in the future.

As you know, the device of the gas water heater is such that it has to work with a rather dangerous fuel. For this reason, during installation, make sure that, God forbid, there is no gas leak. If you cannot, for one reason or another, take care of this, or, even worse, cannot eliminate all the leaks, then further operation will turn into a dangerous activity, which sooner or later can lead to an explosion.

For this reason, it is categorically not recommended to install a gas water heater with your own hands. It is better to have professionals who have all the necessary skills, experience, and the appropriate equipment to do this.

So, for installation, you need the following tools:

dowels;
magnet and salt filter;
drill;
the required number of taps;
pipeline;
chimney corrugation;
gas pipe;
Mayevsky valve;
actually, the column itself.

The device is installed only in the kitchen and only on the wall, which is made of refractory material. The distance from the column to the wall surface should be at least 2 centimeters, if it turns out more, then this is even better. An asbestos sheet should also be laid here, which must have a minimum thickness of 0.3 centimeters.

Important! The apartment / house must have a chimney that will remove the products of gas combustion. It will consist not only of vertical, but also of horizontal sections, and on them it should go at a slope (approximately 0.2 centimeters per each running meter).

So that the pipeline does not accidentally burst, the gas column should be installed only when the water is completely drained from the system.

But editing, as we have already said, is not the most important thing. It is also important that the device is used correctly, for which certain operating rules must be followed. If you do not do this, then even the most expensive and high-quality model will soon break down. So we want to prevent this from happening. Firstly, we must not heat the water to a temperature that would exceed 60 degrees.The fact is that too high a temperature will lead to the formation of salt scale on the walls of the heat exchanger. The result is more frequent cleaning or, even worse, replacement of the heat exchanger.

In addition, we can damage the structure of the heat exchanger by using too hard water. To avoid this, the water should be softened using special means, or a special filter should be installed in the system.

Finally, it is not recommended to dismantle and clean the gas water heater with your own hands, because, as we have already said about this, professionals should deal with this procedure. Doing this with your own hands is extremely dangerous.

If you decide to purchase a geyser device for yourself, then pay attention, first of all, to the power of the model you have chosen. It should be enough to provide all your family members with hot water. The power of almost all modern models fits into the range from 3 to 60 kilowatts.

Important! The more powerful the gas water heater, the more water it will be able to heat up within a certain period of time.

The average “cell of society”, consisting of four people, needs a device with an average capacity of 16-24 kilowatts. It is more than enough for the dishes to be washed and everyone was able to take a shower. Even if the device has a low power of 16 kilowatts, it will be able to give 10 liters of hot water, which is enough to be able to wash and wash dishes at the same time. Of course, if you can, then buy a column with a capacity of 24 kilowatts, since it can provide 24 liters of heated water.

In addition, it is advisable to take into account the water temperature that a specific model can provide. For its designation, the Latin letters DT are used. For example, if water is already supplied to the heat exchanger at a temperature of 12 degrees, then it will heat up to 24 in it. therefore, it can be used even without preliminary dilution.

Today there are models that are capable of heating water even up to 50 degrees. Their power, as well as the cost, is an order of magnitude higher than conventional models. For this reason, if several plumbing elements are simultaneously connected to the system at once, then it is better to purchase a more powerful column so that it can provide them all with hot water at the same time.

Also, when buying a gas water heater, see if it is equipped with safety sensors. They are of the following types:

overheating;
damping of the burner;
burning;
reduced pressure;
temperature;
sudden interruption of water supply.

And remember: gas water heaters are only allowed to be installed in the kitchen! Installation of a gas water heater in the bathroom is prohibited! Unless she (the bathroom) meets all existing requirements.

So, we have analyzed what a gas water heater is, what are its features, what malfunctions may arise during operation and how to fix them later. We only note that such devices are extremely economical, especially in light of the ever-increasing utility rates. And the last thing: do not forget that prophylaxis of the column's performance should be carried out annually.

I wrapped the microswitch, which is under the flow sensor rod, in plastic wrap and now it is not afraid of leakage. And my leakage is so small that I couldn't see the drop nirazu, and the dampness still limescale the microswitch button, so that it did not come out of it and did not turn on the electronics. The microswitch can be easily removed from the bracket with two small screws.

I have a problem with a Selena gas water heater. As soon as the lid in the battery compartment is closed, the gas immediately ignites even when the water is closed. To heat the water, I first open the tap with water, then close the battery compartment lid. To turn off the gas in the column, I open the battery compartment cover. I called the master, changed the microswitch, but it did not help. The foreman cannot determine the breakdown.Who knows how to fix it, leave a comment, please.

tell me why there is a very weak water pressure in a turbocharged selenium gas column

after the column lights up, after a few seconds, the piezoelectric element is triggered and it goes out

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U menea sieli v siu provodcu crisi

amine column. lights up and the temperature rises to the maximum (70) and does not fall, the gas pressure is not regulated (gas at minimum). What could be? Thank you

put a new column RODA-20 A-6 started right away but after a minute it went out. after half a minute it caught fire by itself. and so until I typed in the bathroom, no matter what I did or did not regulate, it didn’t work. What could be? Thank you

column ross burns error her

As soon as the lid in the battery compartment is closed, the gas immediately ignites even when the water is closed. Tell me what to do, it's a piez.

what needs to be changed if the temperature is not regulated heats 27 no more.

Rod's gas water heater gets water on the batteries, what is the reason

what to do if you have to turn on the water both in the bathroom and in the kitchen so that the automatic column works is not very convenient

Video (click to play).

When water is supplied to the column, the lamp does not turn green. There is a spark that clicks, but the column does not ignite. What could be the reason for the failure.

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