Let's say right away that repairing a gas water heater, like any other gas equipment, is a matter exclusively for professionals. But, although repairing speakers with your own hands is not allowed, knowledge is not superfluous. The ability to determine on your own what exactly has broken down, how this breakdown threatens, and what the repair can be will not interfere with anyone. What breakdowns of gas water heaters are there, and what "symptoms" are they accompanied by?
To begin with, before getting acquainted with the basics of troubleshooting, it is not out of place to find out how the gas water heater is arranged, the repair will largely depend on the device. We will not delve into the intricacies of the device of many speaker models, we will limit ourselves only to acquaintance with the general principles.
Centralized hot water supply appeared relatively recently by historical standards. The issue of heating water at home was solved in various ways, but the most common one we had was a storage solid fuel heater - the so-called titanium. Titanium was fired with coal, less often with wood or fuel oil. The water in the boiler had to be warmed up in advance. So taking a bath had to spend at least an hour. Of course, using such a device was very inconvenient. The problem of fast heating of water was solved in gas water heaters.
The work of the geyser consists in heating tap water with gas from the city main. To speed up the heating process, a heat exchanger serves, in which the water flow is distributed through a system of thin tubes located directly above the gas burner. Due to this, it is possible to heat the water quickly enough, right in the process of use, there is no need to pre-accumulate the heated water in the tank.
This is the fundamental device of the gas water heater, all the rest of the filling serves to ignite the gas, regulate the heating of the water, and also ensure safety.
The column may not work for many reasons. Now we will tell you about the most common ones.
There may be several reasons why the gas column does not light up. First of all, make sure the pilot is on. If the igniter does not work, call the gasman from the public service, he will replace or clean the igniter jet.
In columns with electronic ignition, if ignition has not occurred, the gas supply is cut off by a valve, which the user is informed about by the corresponding indicator. Study the instructions (which you should have studied before turning on the column for the first time), perhaps the problem can be solved with your own hands by simply replacing the battery.Otherwise, contact the manufacturer.
Try to open the water tap to the maximum, if the column is turned on at maximum pressure, then it is the membrane that will have to be replaced. It is also necessary to check the filter that is equipped with the water intake of the column. Insufficient water pressure to open the gas valve may be due to a clogged filter. The water filter does not belong to gas equipment, and you can replace it yourself.
VIDEO
Finally, the column may not light up due to improper operation of the bimetallic sensors. They will be discussed below.
If the column ignites, but goes out, the culprit is most likely a bimetallic temperature sensor, designed to protect the column from overheating. A malfunction usually has two manifestations:
The burner lights up, the column works normally for a while, after which it goes out and does not work for some time - attempts to ignite the results do not give results. After 15-20 minutes, the column can be turned on again, the burner lights up, and then again, after about the same period of time, it goes out again. This happens due to the "innate" increased sensitivity of the sensor.
It also happens that the column goes out at the most inopportune moment
In principle, this is a warranty case, but the fact is that the problem is seasonal in nature and arises during the heat of summer or winter, when the windows in the kitchen are constantly closed. In both cases, the air temperature is elevated and the column is not cooled properly. It may happen that the problem will manifest itself when the warranty period expires. Alas, in this case, the repair will have to be done at your own expense.
Disconnections of the column are chaotic, the device sometimes does not light up at all. Such behavior of the heater may indicate deterioration of the insulation of the sensor conductor. A short to the body occurs, causing the safety valve to operate. It is useless to call the gasman - the problem is not in the gas part, you should also not try to fix it with your own hands. For repairs, it is better to contact the manufacturer of this model or to the service center.
If the gas supply occurs, it means that the water pressure in the water intake is normal, the problem is in the blockage of the heat exchanger with scale. One of the reasons may be "idle" combustion of the igniter for a long time. The igniter has enough time to heat the heat exchanger, causing active evaporation of the remaining water. The formed scale is not washed out due to the lack of water flow and until the next turn-on of the column has time to "grab", the result - the column does not work. Repair consists in cleaning or replacing the heat exchanger.
Scale-clogged heat exchanger Reduce water pressure
Possible reasons are as follows:
The gas pressure is too high, the burner ignites too actively, as a result of which the flame breaks out.
The gas pressure is too weak, air gets inside the burner, which is accompanied by a microexplosion.
The burner needs cleaning and adjustment. In principle, nothing complicated, but you do not need to take on this work with your own hands, the repair of the gas water heater should be carried out by a specialist.
Insufficient heating of water can be associated with a low power of the column. Do not turn on the hot tap in the bathtub, sink and kitchen at the same time, or buy a more powerful unit.
An incorrectly selected column will not have time to heat the water
Another possible cause could be a clogged burner, as indicated by a yellow flame. Call a gasman, a specialist will solve this problem in an hour.
This is already serious and threatens with the most dire consequences. Turn off the column immediately, turn off the gas supply valve, provide constant ventilation in the room, call the emergency service (104) and wait for the arrival of the brigade.
In conclusion, once again I would like to remind you of security. Do not try to disassemble, clean or repair gas equipment yourself. This is a job for qualified professionals only.
The names of the columns manufactured in Russia often contain the letters VPG: this is a water-heating device (V) flow-through (P) gas (G). The number after the letters HSG indicates the heat output of the apparatus in kilowatts (kW). For example, VPG-23 is a flow-through gas water-heating apparatus with a thermal power of 23 kW. Thus, the name of modern speakers does not define their design.
The VPG-23 water heater was created on the basis of the VPG-18 water heater manufactured in Leningrad. Later, the VPG-23 was produced in the 90s at a number of enterprises in the USSR, and then - SIG. A number of such devices are in operation. Individual units, for example, the water part, are used in some models of modern Neva columns.
Main technical characteristics of VPG-23:
thermal power - 23 kW;
productivity when heated to 45 ° С - 6 l / min;
minimum water pressure - 0.5 bar:
maximum water pressure - 6 bar.
VPG-23 consists of a gas outlet, a heat exchanger, a main burner, a valve block and an electromagnetic valve (Fig. 74).
The gas outlet serves to supply combustion products to the flue gas outlet of the column. The heat exchanger consists of an air heater and a fire chamber, surrounded by a cold water coil. The height of the VPG-23 fire chamber is less than that of the KGI-56, because the VPG burner provides better mixing of gas with air, and the gas burns with a shorter flame. A significant number of HPG columns have a heat exchanger consisting of one air heater. In this case, the walls of the fire chamber were made of steel sheet, the coil was absent, which made it possible to save copper. The main burner is multi-nozzle, it consists of 13 sections and a manifold, connected by two screws. The sections are assembled into a single whole with tie bolts. The manifold has 13 nozzles, each of which blows gas into its own section.
The block valve consists of a gas and water part, connected by three screws (Fig. 75). The gas part of the block valve consists of a body, a valve, a valve plug, a gas valve cover. A tapered liner for the gas valve plug is pressed into the body. The valve has a rubber seal on the outside diameter. A cone spring presses on it from above. The seat of the safety valve is made in the form of a brass insert pressed into the body of the gas part. The gas valve has a handle with a limiter that fixes the opening of the gas supply to the igniter. The valve plug is pressed against the tapered liner by a large spring.
There is a groove on the valve plug for gas supply to the igniter. When the valve is turned from the extreme left position by an angle of 40 °, the groove coincides with the gas supply hole, and gas begins to flow to the igniter. In order to supply gas to the main burner, the tap handle must be pressed and turned further.
The water part consists of the lower and upper covers, a Venturi nozzle, a diaphragm, a plate with a stem, an ignition retarder, a stem oil seal and a stem clamping sleeve. Water is supplied to the water part on the left, enters the under-membrane space, creating a pressure in it equal to the water pressure in the water supply system. After creating pressure under the membrane, the water flows through the venturi nozzle and rushes to the heat exchanger. The venturi nozzle is a brass tube, in the narrowest part of which there are four through holes that go into the outer circular groove. The recess is aligned with the through holes in both water end covers. Through these holes, the pressure from the narrowest part of the venturi nozzle will be transferred to the supra-membrane space. The poppet stem is sealed with a nut that compresses the PTFE packing.
Automation works on the water flow as follows. When water passes through the Venturi nozzle in the narrowest part, the highest speed of movement of water and, therefore, the lowest pressure. This pressure is transmitted through the through holes to the supra-membrane cavity of the water part. As a result, a differential pressure appears below and above the membrane, which bends upward and pushes the plate with the stem. The stem of the water part, abutting against the stem of the gas part, lifts the valve from the seat. This opens the gas passage to the main burner. When the water flow is stopped, the pressure under and above the membrane is equalized. The cone spring presses on the valve and presses it against the seat, the gas supply to the main burner is stopped.
The solenoid valve (Fig. 76) is used to shut off the gas supply when the igniter goes out.
When you press the solenoid valve button, its stem rests on the valve and moves it away from the seat, while compressing the spring. At the same time, the armature is pressed against the core of the electromagnet. In this case, gas begins to flow into the gas part of the block valve. After igniting the igniter, the flame begins to heat the thermocouple, the end of which is set in a strictly defined position in relation to the igniter (Fig. 77).
The voltage generated during the heating of the thermocouple is applied to the winding of the electromagnet core. In this case, the core holds the armature, and with it the valve, in the open position. The time during which the thermocouple generates the required thermo-EMF and the solenoid valve begins to hold the armature is about 60 seconds. When the igniter goes out, the thermocouple cools down and stops generating voltage. The core no longer holds the armature; the spring closes the valve. The gas supply to both the igniter and the main burner is cut off.
The draft automatics turns off the gas supply to the main burner and igniter in case of a draft in the chimney, it works according to the principle of "gas removal from the igniter". Traction automation consists of a tee that is attached to the gas part of the block valve, a tube to the traction sensor and the sensor itself.
Gas from the tee is supplied to both the igniter and the draft sensor installed under the gas outlet. The thrust sensor (Fig. 78) consists of a bimetallic plate and a union, secured with two nuts. The upper nut is at the same time a seat for the plug, which closes the gas outlet from the fitting. A pipe supplying gas from the tee is attached to the fitting with a union nut.
With normal draft, the combustion products go into the chimney without heating the bimetallic plate. The plug is tightly pressed against the seat, gas does not come out of the sensor. If the draft in the chimney is disturbed, the combustion products heat up the bimetallic plate. It bends upward and opens the gas outlet from the choke. The gas supply to the igniter decreases sharply, the flame stops heating the thermocouple normally. It cools down and stops generating tension. As a result, the solenoid valve closes.
The main malfunctions of the VPG-23 column include:
1. The main burner does not light up:
little water pressure;
deformation or rupture of the membrane - replace the membrane;
clogged venturi nozzle - clean nozzle;
the stock came off the plate - replace the stock with a plate;
misalignment of the gas part in relation to the water part - align with three screws;
the stem does not move well in the stuffing box - lubricate the stem and check the nut tightness. If the nut is loosened more than necessary, water may leak from under the stuffing box.
2. When the water intake is stopped, the main burner does not go out:
dirt has got under the safety valve - clean the seat and valve;
the cone spring is weakened - replace the spring;
the stem does not move well in the stuffing box - lubricate the stem and check the nut tightness. With pilot flame present, the solenoid valve is not held open:
3. Violation of the electrical circuit between the thermocouple and the electromagnet (open circuit or short circuit). Possible reasons are as follows:
lack of contact between the terminals of the thermocouple and the electromagnet - clean the terminals with sandpaper;
violation of the insulation of the copper wire of the thermocouple and its short circuit with the tube - in this case, the thermocouple is replaced;
violation of the insulation of the turns of the coil of the electromagnet, their closure to each other or to the core - in this case, the valve is replaced;
disruption of the magnetic circuit between the armature and the core of the electromagnet coil due to oxidation, dirt, grease, etc. It is necessary to sand the surfaces with a piece of coarse cloth. Cleaning of surfaces with files, sandpaper, etc. is not allowed.
4. Insufficient heating of the thermocouple:
the working end of the thermocouple is smoked - remove soot from the hot junction of the thermocouple;
the igniter nozzle is clogged - clean the nozzle;
the thermocouple is incorrectly positioned relative to the igniter - install the thermocouple relative to the igniter so as to ensure sufficient heating.
Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.
The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.
This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but the principle of operation is the same.
A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up. With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.
To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.
Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems. Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.
To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.
It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.
Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Not all masters know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.
Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature. Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.
In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).
This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.
When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.
With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.
The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.
This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.
Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.
There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.
The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.
This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).
The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle). Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.
Cheap but time consuming and laborious process ... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.
The following materials and tools will help us with this:
open-end wrenches (set);
screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
paronite gaskets (set);
rubber hose;
vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.
To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:
first, we block the access of cold water;
then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
we open the "hot" tap;
unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;
After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.
Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it ... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.
The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney. If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.
Failure of the igniter system can occur from poor pressure water. Open any tap with cold water and check the pressure, if it is weak, you can call the ZhEK and find out what the problem is.
If the column does not ignite when water is supplied or only turns on at a very high pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which, due to wear, reacts poorly to the water passing through it. In this case, it must be replaced.
This is a temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the gas column during operation, preventing it from overheating.
A temperature sensor is installed on each gas column, which makes sure that the column does not overheat in the event of a failure the column may turn off spontaneously during operation ... It usually looks like this:
After normal operation, for some time, the heater “stalls” for 20 minutes. After this time, it can be turned on for the same period of time. The malfunction, as a rule, is seasonal and appears only in summer or winter with closed windows.
The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up ... This can happen when the sensor wire is shorted to the body. Check wires are intact and well insulated.
In order to check the sensor itself for operability, two contacts should be removed from it and short-circuited with a needle, a paper clip, a piece of tin. If the gas appliance turns on and works, the sensor must be changed.
If you see similar spots on your column, then be sure that it is leaking and needs repair.
This malfunction can occur mainly in gas water heaters that have been operating for a long time. The two main reasons for the leak are:
Tubes (bends) or gaskets in the joints are cracked.
screwdrivers (cross and regular);
open-end wrenches (set);
solder with rosin;
a vacuum cleaner;
solvent;
"Skin".
Due to the harsh operating conditions, the radiator or bends can burn out and holes appear on them.If you have determined where the leak is, then you can repair the small hole with an ordinary soldering iron.
Preparing the gas water heater for repair
Drain all liquid from the system - open only the hot water tap, unscrew the nut on the cold water inlet pipe, and most of the water will flow out;
Remove the radiator completely;
Examine the entire tube. - if you see "greenery" - clean and inspect these places for cracks.
Soldering a heat exchanger does not always give good results, here a lot depends on your skill. If the soldering is poor, the heat exchanger will quickly flow again.
When you have found the leaks, you need to do the following:
clean the holes found with "sandpaper" and immediately wipe it with a cloth and solvent (this will remove the remaining grease, carbon deposits and dirt);
using rosin with solder, tin this place with a 100 watt iron (in the absence of rosin, use aspirin);
rub the crack or hole with solder, and after it cools down, add more tin (the layer should be 1-2 mm).
Replacing flexible hoses of this type does not require special skills; anyone can do it with a wrench.
Very often, leaks are formed in the places where the outlets are connected to the heater from the outside or to the internal assemblies of the column. All connections are made by "American" with gaskets inside.
Due to constant heating / cooling, the rubberized liners either melt or lose their properties and harden. Cracks appear in them, along which water flows.
It also happens that the flanges on the pipes crack over time - in this case, you need to replace the entire pipes.
Be sure to change the batteries in the gas water heater in time, because if they are dead, your column will start to emit pops when it is turned on. Also, due to dead batteries, the column may turn off spontaneously.
These startup and operating sounds indicate the following:
a little air got into the system (into the burner) due to the low gas pressure, which generated a microexplosion;
the flame breaks down due to the high pressure of the gas;
nozzle blockage;
low draft of ventilation;
the batteries are dead.
On your own, you can only eliminate the malfunctions described in the last two points.
This can happen for several reasons.
The simplest reason is incorrectly selected gas water heater ... You have saved money and bought a low power heater that is unable to meet your hot water needs.
The second reason is the low gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas workers to check the system.
The third reason is the usual blockage (jet, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some types of which are described above. You can check this by the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.
You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column yourself.
Any professional will tell you: "a gas water heater is a potentially dangerous equipment, so you can only entrust its maintenance and repair to a qualified specialist." However, the ability to understand which element is out of order and what it can lead to will definitely not hurt.
DIY geyser repair
In addition, you can deal with the elimination of some malfunctions that do not specifically affect gas equipment on your own. Read the description of typical breakdowns and recommendations for action in case of their detection.
Gas column device
Equipment can stop igniting for several reasons.
Gas column device
First of all, you must make sure that the igniter is working properly. If it does not light up, contact your gas service. A specialist will clean or replace the failed element.You cannot touch it yourself - it is dangerous.
Gas column device diagram
In modern units with electronic ignition, in the absence of ignition, gas ceases to be supplied - it is cut off by a valve. The user becomes aware of this through the corresponding indicator. In some situations, this problem can be solved by simply replacing the battery. Check this point in the instructions. If the manufacturer does not give such recommendations, it is better to immediately contact the gas service or a third-party repair service.
At one point, the column may not light up
Battery pack for igniting the column
The column will not light up if there is no ventilation draft. To check the level of traction, we bring a strip of paper to the ventilation grill. If the leaf does not change its position, or if it does not change it sufficiently, there are obvious problems with craving. In apartment buildings, utilities are engaged in cleaning ventilation wells - contact them. You can do this yourself with the help of a metal brush tied to a flexible wire (hose, etc.) of a suitable length, however, utilities usually do not approve of such unauthorized actions.
Burners often fail to fire due to diaphragm wear. This structural element deforms rather quickly, the burner starting mechanism becomes less sensitive and does not work when the water is turned on. Even in expensive heaters, membranes wear out in 5-8 years - unfortunately, nothing can be done about this.
Often burners do not fire due to diaphragm wear
To check, turn on the water to maximum. If the column turns on with a strong pressure, the problem is definitely in the membrane. Replacement of this element can be done on your own.
To do this, do the following:
unscrew the fastening nuts from the water unit (usually there are 2 of them);
unscrew the fastening screws, due to which the water unit is held in the gas unit (usually 3 screws);
detach the halves of the assembly and you will see a rubber membrane. If it is not flat but noticeably deformed, replace it. To do this, buy a similar product from a specialized store. If possible, give preference to a silicone membrane - it will last much longer than its simple rubber counterpart.
At the same stage, you can check the condition of the water intake filter. If it is clogged, clean it or replace it with a new one. To clean, simply unscrew the nut from the water supply side, take out the mesh and rinse it or replace it with a new one, depending on the condition.
If the heater turns on but goes out, the problem in most situations is the bimetallic temperature sensor needed to protect the equipment from overheating. Also, due to malfunctions of this element, the heater may not turn on at all.
This problem has 2 main development scenarios.
According to the first scenario, the burner lights up properly, the equipment functions for some time without any complaints, and then goes out and for some time does not show any signs of life - attempts to ignite the heater do not lead to anything. Usually, after 20-30 minutes, the equipment turns on again and history repeats itself. This is due to the excessive sensitivity of the sensor. As a rule, it is "congenital", i.e. this is a factory defect. It is extremely difficult to do something on your own. It is better to immediately contact the manufacturer's service for warranty repairs.
According to the second scenario, the column may turn off randomly, and sometimes not turn on at all. The reason usually lies in the wear of the insulating material of the conductor of the bimetallic sensor. There is a banal short circuit to the case, as a result of which the safety valve is triggered, and the column begins to behave abnormally.
Contact the service center for warranty repair
It makes no sense to turn to gas workers - the defect is clearly not a "gas" one. You also don't need to try to get rid of the breakdown yourself - you can only break the unit. Contact the service center for warranty repairs.
Water comes out with a weak pressure
Most often this happens due to clogging of the column heat exchanger with scale. Prolonged “idle” ignitions of the igniter are usually the cause of clogging. The device heats up the heat exchanger to a temperature sufficient to cause the remaining moisture to evaporate.
There is no water flow, scale is not washed out of the heat exchanger, until the next turn on of the equipment, it sets, as a result of which the column ceases to function normally. Cleaning the heat exchanger usually saves. In advanced cases, it has to be changed.
For replacement, it is better to immediately contact the professionals, but you can handle the cleaning on your own. Prepare screwdrivers, rubber hose, open-end wrenches and paranite gaskets. Purchase a descaling mixture from a hardware store. Usually it is called that - antiscale. A more budgetary option is rinsing with vinegar essence. Work in this order.
First step. Remove the fittings and the casing from the heater one after the other.
Second step. Turn off the inlet water and open a hot water tap, preferably as close as possible from the column.
Step three. Unscrew the water supply pipe from the heat exchanger and then move it to the side. After unscrewing the nut, the column heat exchanger will begin to release water. In total, about 1 liter of it will be drained.
Fourth step. Place a hose of a suitable diameter on the inlet of the heat exchanger and lift it just above the heater. Insert an ordinary funnel into the fixed hose and start slowly pouring in the prepared solution in a thin stream (instructions for preparation are given on the package). There is no need to rush. If you pour it too quickly, the antikipine will simply push it back out, and you are unlikely to like it.
Flushing the gas column heat exchanger
Leave the cleaning agent in the heat exchanger of the heater for 2-3 hours (usually the required time is indicated on the packaging).
Place a suitable container under the water tap and carefully re-feed the heater. Observe what comes out of the hose. Was there a lot of slurry coming out, and then the head returned to normal? Things are good. Otherwise, flushing will have to be repeated. Usually, the need for re-rinsing arises only when using vinegar essence. Anti-scale in most situations copes with the first time.
In such a situation, it is better to immediately contact a professional. He will perform the adjustment, which is extremely difficult to make without knowledge of the matter, and the column will start working normally.
You can find out the reasons for the appearance of such a malfunction for general development. There are two main reasons:
the gas comes under too much pressure. The heater ignites too actively, which leads to the breakdown of the fire;
the gas flow is too low. Air enters the heater burner, resulting in a microexplosion, which is interpreted by human hearing as cotton.
The column does not heat up the water sufficiently
This usually happens due to the insufficient power of the gas column. The user begins to demand more from the equipment than it can do.
There are two options for solving the problem:
we stop abusing and do not open hot taps at the same time at all points of the water intake;
buying a more powerful speaker.
Also, inadequate heating of the liquid can occur due to the clogging of the burner. Look at the color of the fire. Under normal conditions, it is bluish. If the flame turns yellow, contact the gas industry. Such repairs can only be entrusted to a professional, tk. this is already a "gas" breakdown.
The problem is more than serious. Don't even think about any hand-made repairs.Turn off the heater, turn off the gas cock, ensure that there is adequate ventilation at all times, and call the gas service immediately. The arriving team will assess the problem and take appropriate action.
Now you know the main malfunctions of the gas column, and you know how to behave when they appear. The main thing is to remember about safety. There is no need to try to fix breakdowns for which you do not have enough qualifications - this can lead to irreparable consequences.
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