Gas boiler ariston do it yourself repair

Modern gas boilers are quite sophisticated technological equipment. With proper care and proper handling, the gas boiler will serve for a long time without any interruptions. However, even the most expensive and functional equipment has its own resource, after the exhaustion of which all sorts of malfunctions begin to appear.

DIY gas boiler repair

Knowing the main causes of malfunctions and the procedure for eliminating them, you can repair your gas boiler with your own hands. This is a very painstaking, responsible, but in most cases relatively easy job.

Contents of step-by-step instructions:

First of all, it is necessary to establish why any malfunctions may occur in the operation of gas heating boilers. A number of different factors can lead to problems.

Modern gas boilers are equipped with various automation equipment. These funds, in turn, are powered by electricity. And, despite the fact that the 21st century is already in the yard and systems for the use of alternative energy sources are being actively developed around the world, the problem of stability of power grids remains relevant for many regions, especially for remote villages and all kinds of summer cottages.

A sudden power outage or a strong surge in electricity is one of the main enemies of any modern gas boiler.

To avoid all the accompanying troubles, buy a quality stabilizer in advance. Do not spare money to buy this device - there is little sense from cheap models, so it is better to immediately allocate funds to purchase a good stabilizer from a well-known manufacturer. Be sure that in the event of a breakdown of the automation, you will spend much more money on its repair and replacement.

At home, wall-mounted models of gas boilers are often used. Such devices are simultaneously responsible for both space heating and hot water preparation.

The design of wall-hung boilers includes a flow-through heat exchanger. Low-quality hard water with various impurities is the main enemy of the heat exchanger of a gas boiler. At the same time, under the influence of low-quality water, the heat exchanger can fail in just one season.

Install special filters to prevent such damage. The best option is a complete water purification system. With it, your boiler will work as long as possible, and using purified water is much safer for health.

Any knowledgeable person will tell you: only qualified specialists should be engaged in the installation and piping of gas heating equipment.

Even the slightest mistakes at the stages of installation and connection of equipment can lead to irreversible consequences. For example, an incorrectly executed piping in the case of a cast-iron gas boiler more powerful than 50 kW will lead to the fact that the unit will simply split at low temperatures.

If you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the boiler installation to professionals.

Therefore, if you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the installation of the boiler to professionals - this way you will save yourself from many problems in the future.

Unfavorable weather conditions can also lead to the appearance of many different problems. In frosty winters, people turn on the heating at almost full capacity. This leads to a significant decrease in pressure in the gas pipeline system. As a result, boilers cannot fully realize their potential.

You will not be able to solve this problem on your own - you still cannot explain to your neighbors that by their actions they only aggravate the situation. As a solution to the problem, you can install an additional boiler that runs on a different fuel.

Automatic solid fuel coal-fired boiler with hopper

A modern gas boiler is a complex and potentially dangerous system. The main danger of such units is the risk of a gas explosion in the event of improper handling of the equipment or untimely elimination of various malfunctions.

Various kinds of automation are responsible for maintaining the operation of the gas boiler at an optimal level. An inexperienced user is often unable to understand its device. Therefore, it is better to immediately invite specialists to troubleshoot serious problems.

On your own, you can try to eliminate only visible damage and various contaminants that have led to the failure of the pipe, chimney and other parts of the boiler.

Typical malfunctions of gas boilers

There are a number of typical problems that you can fix yourself in most cases. Problems will also be listed, in the event of which you can only protect yourself before the arrival of a specialist.

If a distinct smell of gas or smoke appears in the room, immediately turn off the boiler and leave the room, opening it for ventilation.

Gas boiler functionality diagram

Call a professional immediately. Trying to solve the gas leak problem on your own without the necessary skills is extremely dangerous and unreasonable.

If the flame sensor or the gas supply pipe breaks down, turn off the boiler, close all gas valves and let the unit cool down completely.

Return to the area after a while to check for the smell of gas. If everything is in order with the draft, try to turn on the boiler again. If there is no thrust, immediately call a repairman.

Overheating is one of the most common problems in modern gas boilers. The reason for this may be a malfunction of the automation equipment or a clogged heat exchanger.

It is impossible to cope with the repair of automation without the appropriate knowledge.

You can also clean the heat exchanger with your own hands. The most common materials for the manufacture of heat exchangers are copper and stainless steel. There is usually no problem cleaning them, but be extremely careful anyway.

Primary heat exchanger for wall mounted gas boiler Beretta

According to the recommendations of the manufacturers, the heat exchangers must be cleaned of soot every few years (each manufacturer indicates a specific interval in the instructions for their equipment).

Primary heat exchanger (heating circuit) of the gas boiler Rinnai SMF

To clean the heat exchanger, simply remove it and clean it thoroughly with a metal brush. In the case of a copper heat exchanger, it is best to replace the brush with a metal sponge used for washing dishes.

The problematic place of fans is their bearings. If the fan of your boiler stops developing the set number of revolutions, try to eliminate the problem as soon as possible.

Fan (3311806000) for Daewoo gas boiler

To do this, remove the back of the fan, take out the stator and lubricate the bearings. Machine oil is fine for lubrication, but it is best to use a higher quality carbon compound with heat-resistant properties if possible.

Fan RLA97 (Aa10020004) for gas boiler Electrolux

Also, an interturn short circuit can lead to problems with the fan. Only a specialist can cope with the elimination of this malfunction. Return the stator for repair to replace the winding, or immediately replace the faulty unit with a new device.

Gas boiler chimney diagram

Often, excessive clogging of the coaxial chimney leads to the appearance of various malfunctions in the operation of a gas heating boiler.

Remove the chimney and thoroughly clean all of its components from soot. So you will not only return the previous level of efficiency of the unit, but also significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler.

The boiler can shut down spontaneously for several reasons. This usually happens due to a malfunction of the combustion sensor. This problem, in turn, most often leads to contamination of the gas pipe.

Draft sensor 87 ° C for Thermona boiler

Remove the branch pipe, rinse it thoroughly with water, clean it with a cotton swab and blow it off the remaining moisture. Put the pipe back in place and try to turn on the boiler. If it doesn't help, call the wizard.

No wonder they say: the best repair is prevention. Gas boilers require annual preventive maintenance, which must be carried out before the start of the heating season.

Whenever possible, maintenance should be carried out twice a year, before and after the heating season.

Check all the previously discussed boiler elements for their serviceability. Follow the preventive maintenance recommendations given by the manufacturer in the instructions specific to your boiler. Eliminate any malfunctions that arise in time, if possible.

Remember! A gas boiler is a potentially hazardous equipment. Incorrect use and untimely troubleshooting can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, be careful and do not engage in any repair work if you doubt your ability and correctness of action. Otherwise, follow the instructions provided.

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Question: We installed a wall-mounted gas boiler Ariston clas evo 24 ff. Made a small change in the heating system. Before calling a technical service for the first start, I wanted to fill the heating system with water and check it for leaks. but faced the problem of filling the system with water. How to do it? Where is the make-up tap? Should the boiler be connected to the power supply? And why do you need a solenoid valve
recharge?

Answer: The make-up solenoid valve is just for make-up and is needed. Only for this you need to turn on the boiler to the network, but I would not recommend doing this before the arrival of the service. Believe me, there are different situations when starting. And then, with this valve, the system is not fed, but fed.To fill the system, either they make a tie-in from cold water into the return line (with a tap), which I personally do not welcome, or they fill it manually through the valve.

Look at the valve from below and you will see a screw for a screwdriver. So, if you turn it (will point to the letter A), then water will begin to flow into the system through the boiler (the letter C is closed). A key magnet is attached under the boiler next to the automatic make-up. You put it on a pin sticking out from under the boiler and supply CO.

Question: The Ariston class 24 ff gas boiler is connected, the heating season is over, the heating is turned off, and now, when the hot water is turned on, the boiler works at the set temperature for about 10-30 seconds, after that it fades out and the message H46 appears on the screen (46 water temperature, looked H- delayed shutdown of the pump in DHW mode, something I did not hear the pump operation at UDC? when heating is audible), tap water
begins to get colder, then the boiler ignites and so on in a circle, lit up, went out, lit up.

When the boiler is turned off, gurgling is heard inside, as if water is boiling, it periodically drips from the chimney, apparently condensate from steam from the boiler, if at this moment the heating is turned on, the gurgling immediately stops, when operating in DHW mode, the heating pipe does not heat up when the boiler is cut off, then if you turn on the heating, it shows the temperature in the heating circuit about 80 degrees and drops quickly.

Help, otherwise there is no one else to turn to, we do not have a normal service in the city, and soon this boiler, in my opinion, will be put on my head. And another question, the automatic valve for removing air in the boiler near the pump, after filling the heating system, must be closed or it remains in the raised position, otherwise I think that steam goes through it into the chimney.

Answer: Carefully unscrew the large nut at the end of the pump and check if the pump is spinning or not. Just take care of the board, so as not to flood with water. Cover with something. This valve must always be lifted. I would start by cleaning the hot water flow sensor. It is very likely that the impeller in the DHW flow sensor does not rotate. If it does not help, then the secondary heat exchanger is clogged. If the heat exchanger is clogged, it is necessary to clean it. Remove the heat exchanger and check the condition of the CO channels. And before that, indirectly determine the operation of the boiler in DHW mode.

Open the boiler, turn it on in DHW mode and determine the flow and return temperature of the primary heat exchanger. There is no need to dismantle the boiler. Secondary heat exchanger - installed at the bottom, stainless steel plate. Contamination can be on the primary side.

This is especially often the case when using a boiler with an incorrectly flushed steel heating system or when using aluminum radiators. It is always advisable to use a filter on the heating system return. Remove the heat exchanger and flush with appropriate means.

Question: Installed a wall-mounted boiler ariston clas 24 cf. I worked perfectly all winter, for a week after they turned off yesterday I wanted to turn on the weather it got colder, and he gave me a surprise error 302. I press RESET and the button does not respond, I press ON / OFF thought to turn it on through the button and it also does not react, well, in general, such a feeling that the buttons are locked! what to do ?

Answer: 302 is not an error, but an indication that the boiler is in the parameter setting mode. I would try to check the display board on another similar boiler. If it is working properly, you will have to reflash the memory of the control board.

Question: I found out immediately when the boiler was turned on Ariston Klas: error 201 - Sensor on the supply to the DHW circuit (NTCs) - no contact. And there is no sensor at all, in its place there is a factory plug. I found out when I was cleaning the turbine of the DHW flow meter - there is no flow regulator. And everything works.

Answer: Error 201 is highlighted, because the board is of the old model, where the NTC sensor was still on the hot water supply.The impeller of the flow sensor is clogged due to the absence of a fine filter at the water inlet (or its complete clogging).

Question: the boiler generates error 501 - No flame. I checked the boiler control board, like the relays that control the igniter are intact, the optocoupler is also intact. Perhaps someone has encountered such an error and how to fix it?

Answer: The main reasons for this error are, as a rule, the potential on the gas pipe (relative to the boiler body), dirty flame control electrode, low gas pressure on the burner. You need to check this first and only then delve into electronics.

Question: I started the Ariston Class 24 wall-mounted boiler. It has been working for three weeks and everything seems to be fine, but there are a couple of points that I doubt.

1. With cold CO, the pressure on the manometer is 1 bar. When the boiler is turned on at maximum power and the set temperature is 80 degrees, the pressure shows 2 bar. Is it okay?

2. When the boiler is connected to the network, Err / 201 flashes on the indicator several times. I did not find one in the description of the error codes in the manual. It is clear that the error is related to hot water supply, but maybe someone knows what exactly? And it also feels like at min. setting the DHW temperature, the tap water is much hotter than 36 degrees.

Answer: It is necessary to correctly adjust the gas valve - then the DHW will work as it should.

Question: So that there was no big pressure from the taps, I put additional ball valves in front of the mixer - they are almost closed. I did not check the temperature with a large flow. And if the new models do not have a temperature sensor, then it is not clear how the board controls the temperature in the hot water supply? And why then error 201 appears when the boiler is connected to the network?

Answer: On the latest versions of Ariston clas evo system 28 ff boilers, there really are no DHW temperature sensors (DT). The DHW temperature is determined by the DT supply to CO through a temperature shift. Error 201 appears when the readings of the supply DT and the return DT are equal, that is, at the moment of switching on and disappears somewhere after 5-10 seconds. Fewer sensors, fewer problems. (The firmware versions seem to be the same, tracing and
the details of the boards also seem to be the same or looked bad.)

Question: In the summer, we installed a gas boiler Ariston, class 24 ff, installed heating and hot water supply circuits, checked everything worked fine. Recently I hit another battery / I think this is not a fundamental point. The boiler for some time stood for about a couple of months without pressure, without water. Today I wanted to check the connected battery for leaks:

1.picked water into the system about 2 bar
2. pressed self-removal of air from the circuit
3, the boiler switched to the desired mode, but there was no pump noise
4. the boiler exited the mode and started heating the water in the circuit, the pressure began to rise, after which the blocking worked and threw out an error with code 104 (circulation violation).
5. after restarting, the situation repeated itself.
6. got to the pump, there is a valve (for some reason it turned out to be suspiciously hot).
7. I dialed and flushed water several times, it poured out that looked like rust, the circuit was assembled from plastic (brazed), steel radiators, after flushing, nothing happened, the situation repeats
8. He stopped torturing himself and the cauldron so as not to "cheat".

I have a suspicion of sticking. It feels like it's trying to start the pump, but can't turn it.

Answer: At the end of the pump, unscrew the n / w plug and carefully use a screwdriver to develop the stuck shaft (there is a slot on the end). We tighten the cork. We start the boiler.

Question: We have assembled the Ariston Clas 24 FF wall-mounted boiler. Nobody used it before. At start-up in both CO and DHW modes, the burner ignites, the temperature starts to rise on the display, and then turns off (all this within a few seconds), error code 104 - insufficient circulation. There is no sticking in the pump, I turned the shaft, the flow meter rotates perfectly, in the CO circuit 1.5 atm.

Could there be an air lock in the CO circuit? I blew air from the radiators, but did not figure it out with the air vent.The air vent, as I understand it, is opened by lifting the red cap on the pump, but there is no effect. And the function of automatic air removal somehow incomprehensibly works: I hold ESC for 5 seconds, P1- appears on the display, as described in the instructions, but after that nothing happens. After a couple
minutes, the boiler goes into standby mode again. Trying to ignite again leads to error 104. Maybe the pump does not turn on at all? How can I check this?

Answer: Carefully unscrew the plug at the end of the pump during operation, but water will ooze and you will see if the rotor rotates. Check the filter for CO. If everything is in order with the pump and CO, the water pressure sensor may lie.

Symptoms of a clogged built-in filter in the heating system of the Ariston gas boiler are a general drop in temperature and insufficient heating of the coolant, with frequent switching on / off of the burner.

The reason is that, due to the clogged filter, the inflow of the cooled "return" is difficult and the boiler circulation pump starts to drive the liquid along the built-in bypass small circle, quickly heating it to the set temperature, which leads to the burner shutdown. Then the slow feed return dilutes this small amount of heated liquid, the boiler turns on again for heating, heats up quickly, turns off, etc. The overall heating efficiency naturally drops.

The following is a simple, but not described in the manual, filter cleaning procedure, which any homely owner can do with his own hands.

Firstly, if the boiler is in operation to heat the room, then turn it off and let it cool down.

Then turn off the power supply, turn off the heating supply and return valves. Remove the front cover, which is attached from the bottom with 2 screws, by pulling the bottom towards you and lifting it up to remove it from the upper pins. Remove the combustion chamber heat shield, which is secured with two latches. For convenience, it is better to remove the right wall, fastened with 4 screws, two on the front and two on the bottom, take it slightly to the right and back and it can be easily removed. The panel with regulators, a pressure gauge and the entire control circuit leans back on hinges and after that we will be presented with the following view:

The number 1 marks the overpressure valve.

Digit 2 is the installation location of the heating filter.

First of all, you need to relieve the pressure, for this you need to substitute a container under the protective valve (from the valve to the right you can see the water discharge pipe) and holding the valve body with one hand, gently pull the stem with pliers and hold until the pressure is completely released:

Now you can start dismantling the filter.

The tube is inserted directly into the end of the filter and goes to the pressure gauge.

Question: I connected a wall-mounted gas by-pass boiler Ariston clas evo system 24 ff (closed combustion chamber). But for the first time I want to use it only for hot water supply, because all old radiators must be replaced in the heating system. The boiler refuses to work without connecting the heating circuit.

I tried to make a jumper: I combined the input and output of the heating circuit - the boiler goes into protection (Err 104 - circulation error). Tell me how to solve this problem. How can you simulate a heating circuit? Indeed, in summer mode, when the boiler operates only on hot water supply, water does not circulate along the heating circuit. I did not find data on the minimum volume of the heating circuit in the characteristics (there is only max).

Answer: It is necessary to unblock the air vent, create pressure on the pressure gauge 1.2, rotate the pump mechanically, turn on the boiler without gas - the pump will operate with noise. As a result, no air should remain in the circuit, the pump runs quietly. Reset the alarm and use DHW. DHW does not require batteries, plugs can be installed. But the heating circuit inside the boiler must be filled with pressure water without air.

Question: My problem is that when the hot water is turned on, the flame burns very strongly and the front panel of the boiler is very hot. The smell of burnt paint is heard.The temperature is set at 38 degrees. The ARISTON CLAS 24 CF boiler has been in operation for 3 years. I would like to know what could be the problem?

Answer: Check the gas setting on the gas valve.

Question: Installed boiler Ariston class 24 ff. I turn on hot water, on the d50 monitor, the boiler turns on, hot water flows for 15-20 seconds. The boiler turns off, on the monitor H50, seconds 5-10, the water in the tap cools down. Then the boiler will turn on on the d50 monitor, again for 15-20 seconds and everything repeats
again.

Answer: According to the description, H50 means that the temperature has been reached. The "glitch" of the STC sensor is quite possible. See also gas valve settings - maximum / minimum. Maybe the boiler really heats the water up to 50. It is necessary to watch and check the gas valve settings.

Question: During the removal of the heat exchanger for flushing, water got on the gas valve, after drying, after about a day, the boiler turns on, the pump starts working, but neither spark nor ignition occurs, after a few seconds it gives error 502 (Flame detected when the gas valve is closed). What could be the reason?

Answer: By all indications, moisture got not only on the gas valve, but also on the control board. Flame detection is carried out by the control board. It is necessary to invite the heat exchanger washer - let him now heal the control board.

Question: When you open a hot water tap, the wall-mounted gas double-circuit boiler Ariston Class 24 turns on, d38 is displayed on the display, and after 2-3 seconds. 5P3 ​​appears and immediately again d38, after 2-3 seconds again 5P3 and immediately again d38. And so the information on the board changes during the first 20-25 seconds. heating water.

Then the water heats up without problems and d38 is constantly on the screen. It started after they stopped heating the house, that is, the boiler only works to heat the water. This is the first question. And the second: After closing the hot water tap, error 104 lights up on the display. The boiler starts up only after pressing RESET. What could be the cause of these problems?

Answer: There was the same problem. It was solved by flushing the secondary DHW heat exchanger. But you have to flush every six months. The symptoms were the same. More. There is a special device for flushing, it is connected to the input / output of the DHW circuit.

If you use it every six months, then such a rinse is sufficient. If the heat exchanger is heavily contaminated with deposits, then it is necessary to remove the heat exchanger and “soak” it in a solution with citric acid (vinegar). Such a measure cleans well.

Question: There was a problem. Installed and connected gas boiler Ariston clas evo 24 ff. The boiler does not pump the heating system, the first two radiators are warming up. Heating polypropylene. At the same time, it does not give any errors. What could be the problem? I also want to add that the temperature quickly builds up for about one and a half minutes and the boiler goes out.

Answer: there is no circulation of the heating system, there may be a blockage or the transport plugs from the radiators may not be removed, there may be air both in the pump and in the system.

Question: I installed a gas boiler Ariston clas system 24 ff. The following problem arose - When starting up, the boiler does not always ignite, it is clear that there is a spark, a certain amount of gas flows (I noticed the meter readings), but the flame does not ignite. After 8 seconds, as expected, error 501 is displayed.

Sometimes at the moment of ignition it is seen how a small flame flares up and goes out, sometimes it ignites without problems with a normal flame. I also noticed that the flame on the burner can be of different strengths. I thought that this was due to the temperature of the coolant, but with several switching on / off the boiler, the flame is different at the same temperature.

The boiler was installed what is called “as is”, i.e. no parameter adjustments have been made. The only parameter that tried to change this parameter 220 “Smooth ignition” - the factory setting is 47, tried to increase to 80 - did not give a result, returned it back. I didn't change any other parameters. I also noticed that when the temperature setting is increased to 61 degrees, the boiler does not turn off, i.e.it gradually reduces the flame as it approaches the temperature and continues to burn in this mode.

When the temperature was set to 53 degrees, it heated up and turned off, but then it could not start due to the above problem. It is impossible to find a specialist for such boilers in our outback, and the nearest center is 200 km away. Maybe someone faced a similar problem? Please advise what checking operations need to be done to identify the malfunction.

Answer: It is necessary to slightly increase the minimum gas pressure on the gas. valve. Warming up to the set temperature takes place for min. pressure. DHW control (knob) - to the maximum. The flow must correspond to the maximum (12 lmin). The first measurement (on gas) at the inlet, in statics, then at start-up. If the pressure drops below 14 mbar, do not touch the valve, otherwise you will knock off all factory settings.

Question: Tell me, I have a wall-mounted gas by-pass boiler Ariston Class 28 CF installed. When DHW is turned on, the water temperature does not correspond to the temperature set on the screen. At first I didn’t pay attention to it, but lately the readings are very different, I put 45, and it flows, about 38. How to fix it?

Answer: It's time to do a full cleaning check. Maintenance is called.

Question: In the fall of last year, we installed the Ariston clas evo 24 ff boiler. I installed it, and until recently everything worked fine. There was a problem - when the hot water tap is opened, the boiler starts to click quite loudly and stops 5-10 minutes after the tap is closed. How to solve this problem yourself?

Answer: This model has a weak link. Caliper (three-way stem) - lets water in, and spoils the mechanics of the servo motor. Less often, this phenomenon was observed on the UNO model, (the valve and servo are located horizontally), but in this case the motor burned, and in the Class, the front spring flies.

Question: We installed a wall-mounted gas double-circuit boiler Ariston, class 24 ff, DHW mode, the water starts to heat up and a roar appears in the boiler, an error occurs 1P2 insufficient circulation, this is an error in the heating circuit, and the heating is turned off. What could be the reason?

Answer: The reason is unambiguously in the incorrect interrogation of the NTC sensors of the heating system. One of them misbehaves. Another thing is that these devices were produced with three NTC sensors (two for heating and one for DHW) and with two NTC sensors - both in the primary circuit of the boiler. Deal with the device modification and replace one of the sensors.

Question: In 2009, the Ariston clas evo system 28 ff boiler was connected. The boiler lay in the garage until now, it was not possible to install it by coincidence. A month ago I installed the heating system, hung up the boiler, started up the central heating, adjusted the radiators - all are equally hot (well, how
expose yourself).

But the problem with hot water. First it goes cold (well, of course, while it warms up), after 10 seconds it gradually heats up to the set one (although the temperature at the exit from the tap did not measure), it goes on for a few minutes, then it gets hotter and hotter, but not until it boils, but still, then it is cold again and the whole cycle is repeated again.

There is no DHW sensor in the boiler (I looked, they say that they have not installed it since 2009). The boiler says this when it starts up (err 201). Water in the house from a well + deep pump + hydroaccumulator, respectively, the cold water pressure ranges from 2 to 4.5 atm. (exhibited on the pump automation unit). Tell me how to overcome this problem with hot water supply. Installing a DHW sensor - is it possible and will it help? Set the pressure reducer at the boiler cold water inlet to 2 atm, so that it does not rise any more.

Answer: To begin with, adjust the pressure switch for the difference "on - off" in 1 At. You have too wide a spread. The boiler automation does not have time to react. The gas valve may need to be adjusted.

The Ariston Double-Circuit Boiler gives error 106, and does not heat the water in the heating system, what should I do? This malfunction can be completely eliminated by yourself! Here is a detailed description of the repair that I made to fix this error. And also some additional tricks that you might need. Solving this problem, I did not forget about you, and therefore there will be a lot of photos)

To begin with, a little background related to this breakdown. According to the description of the boiler owners, it was possible to find out that the malfunction developed gradually, and manifested itself as follows.At first, from time to time, approximately once every 2 weeks, the boiler started giving error 106, the error was easily reset with the Reset button and the boiler continued to work for the next couple of weeks.

But at one "perfect" moment, the error began to appear every 5 minutes and this has already served as a reason for troubleshooting and repair.

After observing the operation of the boiler, I noticed that in the "Heating" mode, according to the indicator readings, it heats the water up to 35 degrees and that's it, then it turns off, as if it had heated the water to the set 60 degrees! Then it turns on again and repeats a very short and clearly insufficient heating, followed by a shutdown of the burner.
And after several such cycles, it displays the message 1P3 and then refuses to work at all, leaving the error 106. The Reset button resets the error, but not for long.

Error codes 1P3 and 106

According to the manual for the boiler, error 106 means insufficient circulation.
Therefore, the first suspicion fell on one of the pump control relays. I have already eliminated such faults, but then error 104 was reported, also indicating poor circulation. However, after measuring the voltages coming from the relay to the pump, I realized that it was not about them. It is necessary to look for another reason for this behavior of the boiler.

My attention was attracted by traces of leaks from under the connection of the primary heat exchanger with the branch pipe, apparently the gasket was leaking and the water was slowly digging, flowing directly onto the sensors.

The location of the sensors on the nozzle and the water dripping on them

Two sensors are attached to the branch pipe, an overheating sensor, and one of the NTC sensors, which is a water temperature sensor at the supply to the heating system circuit.

Traces of water drips and oxides were visible on these sensors. Therefore, the next thought that came to mind was the need to check the NTC sensor.
The sensor is nothing more than a thermistor, it is a resistor that, when heated, changes its resistance, in this case downward.
THOSE. the more the water heats up, the lower the resistance of the sensor. According to these indications, the boiler electronics is guided, making a decision on switching on / off and on the current temperature that is displayed.

If this sensor was completely in the open circuit, then the boiler would give a corresponding message, namely error 110 (No contact of the NTC 1 sensor) Let's conduct an experiment! (Photo below) P.S. If there is no contact, the NTC 2 sensor will have error 112.

Error 110 which will be when the NTC 1 sensor is broken

As you remember, in my case, error 110 did not appear, why? The thing is that there was no complete break in the sensor circuit.
After removing the sensor, I measure its resistance, it is more than 5 mΩ, which is a lot, but there is no complete open circuit, therefore the boiler does not report the 110th error. However, the sensor is defective, as it has oxidized due to exposure to water and has increased its resistance many times over.

The resistance of the defective sensor is too high

And for this reason, the boiler does not see adequate temperature readings, hence the failure. By the way, it is not necessary to fill the sensor with water, a similar phenomenon can occur for other reasons.

For reference: A serviceable, new sensor, at room temperature had a resistance of 12 kOhm.

Resistance of the new sensor 12 kOhm

So, as you of course understood, in order to troubleshoot the problem, it was necessary:

1. Get a new NTC sensor
2. Tidy up the tubes, removing scale and oxides.
3. Eliminate the leak in the connection between the heat exchanger and the pipe

The purchase of a new sensor cost 750 rubles. The kit also included new brackets for fixing the NTC and fixing the branch pipe, which was very handy, since the old bracket was no longer very reliable due to oxidation.

New sensor and fixation brackets

Installing a new sensor completely restored the boiler's functionality. But with the purchase of new rubber seals to eliminate the leak, a problem arose, they were not available.A decision was made to find a way to get around this nuisance, and it was found.

Friends, if you are not tired of reading yet, I will share with you some of the findings, this will help you better understand the operation of the boiler, and maybe it will help out someday.

Most likely, if you have a similar malfunction, you will not have a new sensor at hand. How can you make sure that you need a replacement for him? Very simple! You just need to substitute an ordinary resistor instead of the sensor.
The resistance of the resistor is needed in the range of the sensor. THOSE. from about 12 kOhm or less. The lower the resistance, the higher the water temperature will be "seen" by the boiler.
I think you understand that this is the boiler's perception of temperature, deceptive and depends on the value of the resistor.
Let's conduct an experiment: I quickly found a suitable resistor, 6.2 kOhm.

Let's connect it instead of the sensor. What can be observed?

With a 6.2 kΩ resistor, the boiler detected a temperature of 39 degrees

As you can see - 39 degrees, and this temperature will remain unchanged, since the resistor will not change its parameters regardless of the water temperature.

Is it possible to light the boiler in this case? Yes! And thus it will make sure that there are no other malfunctions in the boiler, it is enough just to replace the sensor.

The boiler works with a resistor instead of a sensor

As you can see, the boiler is working, it no longer produces errors, which confirms the need to replace the sensor.

But is it possible to replace the sensor with a resistor for continuous operation? Not!

The boiler will constantly assume that the water temperature in the circuit is 39 degrees and if the boiler is started it will work without shutting down. It can only be turned off manually by unscrewing the heating control knob to zero.

If the resistor is with a lower resistance, then the boiler will perceive it as if the water is hot, and in order for the flame to ignite, you need to unscrew the CO temperature setting knob more than the value of the temperature determined by the resistor. Here's an example.

At 2.8 kOhm, the boiler determined the water temperature as 60 degrees

As you can see, even with the heating turned off, the boiler detects the temperature in the circuit as 60 degrees. To light it, you need to set the heating temperature over 60. This shows the dependence of the readings on the resistance of the resistor.

So, this method is good for diagnosing a malfunctioning NTC sensors.

Is it possible to use it for heating in an emergency? Well, if someone is vigilantly watching and periodically turning off the boiler manually, you can still limit the burner flame by partially closing the gas supply valve on the pipe.

I’m not saying that it’s right, wrong! And therefore, to follow this path or not is solely your decision!

As I already said, the reason for the failure of the sensors was water dripping on them; rubber rings could not be found. How to fix the leak?

This problem took more time than fiddling with the sensor. Since for this it is necessary to remove the branch pipe, disconnecting it from the heat exchanger and the hydraulic unit. Naturally, before this it is necessary to drain the water from the boiler!

Disconnect the branch pipe

And here is the reason for the leak - a useless gasket, compare it with an even less efficient one.

Rings worn out and still good

And this procedure had to be removed, installed, drained, poured many times, in the end the ring broke completely.
What did not work - I tried to plant Curil-T on a non-solidifying sealant, an excellent thing in auto repair, but it did not work here. Maybe it would have worked better with solidifying, but there was no time to wait.

The tightly and well-wound fum tape did not give the same result.

But the usual flax, did not disappoint! Also tightly wound to the desired diameter, it immediately showed its best side, not allowing water to flow. But even if droplets appeared, it would swell and seal the leak. Hurray for flax.

All guys, that's it! I'm already tired of writing! )))
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