In detail: generator volkswagen t4 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Before starting any work related to the charging system, you should carefully read the following safety instructions:
♦ Never disconnect the battery or voltage regulator while the engine is running.
♦ Never allow ground of the field terminals or electrical wires connected to them.
♦ Never swap the wires of the voltage regulator.
♦ Do not ground the governor; if the engine is running, the governor will be immediately damaged.
♦ Never remove the generator without previously disconnecting the electrical wires from the battery.
♦ When installing the battery, pay attention to its correct connection to the vehicle network (although the terminals are specially made for this in different sizes).
♦ If you are charging the battery without removing it from the vehicle, remove both terminals from the battery.
Checking the VW T4 generator on the car
If the charging warning lamp is on, then the generator or the voltage regulator or the wires between them may be damaged, or the drive belt may be damaged (stretched, torn). First of all, you should check the belt, and secondly, the wires suitable for the generator.
Check the tension of the alternator V-belt. Further actions can be performed only after removing the generator.
Removal and installation of the generator Transporter T4
Depending on the engine installed, the alternator can be secured in different ways. During removal and installation it is recommended to use fig. 500 and 503.
♦ Remove the terminals from the battery. From the rear of the generator, remove the electrical connector (Bosch generator) or disconnect the wires (Valeo generator, see Fig. 501).
♦ Loosen the V-belt tensioner and both bolts holding the T4 alternator. Move the tensioner to the side.
♦ Slide the alternator against the engine block and remove the V-belt.
♦ Unscrew the bolt (s) securing the generator from below and remove the generator (see fig. 500). However, it is sometimes necessary to lift the machine to provide access.
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Video (click to play). |
Rice. 500 Dismantling of the T4 generator - diesel 1.9 production since October 1992
Rice. 501 Alternator Valeo
The generator is installed in reverse order. Place the V-belt over the belt pulleys and tighten the bolt that blocks the tensioner plate. Check the tension of the V-belt and adjust if necessary (this description applies to all engine types).
To remove the generator bracket (4) (see Fig. 502), you must first drain the coolant.
Rice. 502 Fastening the VW T4 generator in a gasoline engine - Bosch generator
1 - V-belt, 2 - TORX bolt, 3 - spacer sleeve, 4 - generator bracket, 5 - washer, 6, 7 - bolt, 8 - hairpin, 9 - generator, 10 - fan, AND - belt pulley, 12 - nut, 50 Nm, 13, 19, 22 - washer, 14, 18 - bolt, 35 Nm, 15 - nut for adjusting the V-belt tension, 16 - tensioner bar, 17 - bracket, 20 - bolt, 20 Nm, 21 - spacer washer
Adjusting the V-belt tension
The need to adjust the belt tension appears after removing the generator, as well as if the V-belt is stretched and its tension has decreased.
Check 100 km after installing a new V-belt.
its tension, since at the beginning the belt always stretches a little. If you hear a characteristic noise in the area of the V-belt, be sure to check the tension and, if necessary, bring it back to normal.
Bosch generator repair
A typical Bosch T4 generator is shown in fig. 503.
Rice. 503 Alternator Bosch
1 - nut, 50Nm, 2 - washer, 3 - belt pulley, 4 - spacer washer, 5 - washer, 6 - fan, 7, 8, 17, 24, 32 - bolts, 9 - front cover, 10 - front bearing, 11 - bearing pressure plate, 12 - spacer ring, 13 - key, 14 - anchor, 15 - rear bearing, 16 - stator, 18 - plate with diodes, 19 - plastic insulating washer, 20 - plastic lubricating washer, 21 - rear cover , 22 - voltage regulator, 23 - insulating plastic washer, 25 - washer, 26 - spring washer, 27 - washer, 28 - contact nut "D +", 29 - spring washer, 30 - nut, 16 Nm, 31 - capacitor
♦ Unscrew the rotor nut and remove the drive pulley, impeller and spacer washer. Shaft
The alternator can be supported while loosening the nut using an old V-belt as shown in fig. 504. A two- or three-legged puller may be needed to remove a belt pulley. The pulley diameter is different for different motors.
Rice. 504 Loosening of the nut securing the alternator pulley Volkswagen T4
♦ Remove the key from the shaft.
♦ Unscrew the regulator together with the brush holder and remove it.
♦ Mark the position of the front cover relative to the rear one and unscrew both pins connecting the generator panels from the rear cover. Detach the front cover from the housing by tapping it slightly with a rubber mallet if necessary.
♦ Remove the alternator rotor from the cover using a press or a puller (see fig. 505). If, during dismantling, the bearing cover is not fixed to the pressure plate, the bolts holding the plate can be pulled out. If it is necessary to remove the bearing from the front cover, remove the bolts securing the pressure plate and remove the bearing by applying force evenly along the axis of the bearing bore.
Rice. 505 Removing the front cover from the anchor
♦ On the slip ring side, remove the bearing from the armature. If you use a puller for this, then its paws should be wound behind the inner ring.
♦ Unsolder the diode board (rectifier bridge) from the starter. In this case, to remove heat, it is recommended to hold the wires with tongs between the starter and the soldering point. Diodes must not be overheated.
Checking carbon brushes and brush holders
Check that the brushes fit well to the slip rings and that the brushes move freely in the brush holder. Clean the brush holder with solvent if necessary.
If the brushes protrude from the brush holder by 5.0 mm or less, then they should be replaced (see Fig. 506). Attach one wire of the device to the slip ring, and the other to the protrusion (pole) of the armature. If the gauge shows an open circuit, replace the armature.
Rice. 506 The protrusion of the brushes from the brush holder must be at least 5.0 mm
Checking the rotor (armature)
If slip rings have a dirty surface, wipe them with a cloth dampened in solvent. Polish up any scratches with the finest emery paper. The armature insulation is checked with an ohmmeter.
Rice. 507 Checking the generator winding Conveyor T4
In order to check for breaks, attach both probes to the slip rings, as shown in Fig. 508. The ohmmeter reading should be in the range of 2.8 - 3.0 ohms. If the device shows "infinity", then there is an open circuit in the circuit. If the resistance is "zero", then there is a short circuit in the circuit. In both cases, the armature of the Transporter T4 generator should be replaced.
Rice. 508 Checking the armature windings
Checking the stator
In the event of a short circuit to ground, the damage is very easy to identify due to severe overheating. In other cases, check the resistance with an ohmmeter by applying one end to the rings made of magnetic sheets, and the other, in turn, to the four ends of the stator winding (see Fig. 509). In order to check if there is a break in the stator windings, check in turn the four wires of its winding. If the device does not show anything, then there is an open circuit in the circuit. The resistance of the individual windings should be between 0.10 and 0.11 ohms.
Rice. 509 Check for breakage of stator windings
Assembling the T4 generator
Assembly is carried out in the reverse order to disassembly.
Valeo generator repair
In fig. 511 shows the arrangement of the generator.The generator can also be dismantled using this illustration.
Checking the Valeo generator is carried out in the same way as checking the Bosch generator, while observing the following conditions:
When checking for a short circuit in the stator windings, one wire of the ohmmeter must be attached to the ring made of magnetic conductors (1, Fig. 510), and the second, in turn, to the ends of three wires (2), (3) and (4).
Rice. 510 Check for short circuit
To check that there are no breaks in the stator windings, check three stator wires one by one (Fig. 511). If the device does not show anything, then there is an open circuit. The loop resistance should be 0.10-0.11 ohms.
Rice. 511 Alternator Valeo (65A) Volkswagen Transporter T4
1 - nut, 40 Nm, 2, 5, 7 - washers, 3 - belt pulley, 4 - spacer sleeve, 6 - fan, 8, 12 - spacer rings, 9 - front cover, 10 - front bearing, 11 - pressure plate bearing, 13 - key, 14 - rotor (armature), 15 - rear bearing, 16 - stator, 17 - metal ring, 18 - plastic sleeve, 19 - rear cover, 20 - closing cover, 21 - plate with diodes, 22 - voltage regulator, 23 - pin, 24 - capacitor
Generator (4-cylinder diesel engine with 10/92, 5-cylinder petrol engine with 10/91)
VW T4 is equipped with a 3-phase alternator. Depending on the model and equipment, the generators can be installed in different capacities. The power is indicated on the generator rating plate.
If additional electrical equipment is installed, it is necessary to check whether the installed generator has sufficient capacity. If necessary, install a more powerful generator.
The generator is driven by the crankshaft with a V-belt. In this case, the rotor with the excitation winding rotates inside the stationary stator winding at a speed twice the speed of rotation of the motor.
The excitation current flows through the graphite brushes, the collector, the excitation winding, forming a magnetic field.
The position of the magnetic field relative to the stator winding is constantly changing, according to the rotation of the rotor. This creates an alternating current in the stator winding.
Since the battery can only be charged with direct current, the alternating current through the diode rectifier is converted into direct current. The voltage regulator changes the charging current by turning the excitation current on and off, according to the charging state of the battery. At the same time, the regulator maintains a constant operating voltage of about 14 V, regardless of the engine speed.
Generator Precautions
When working on the electrical system, in the engine compartment, always disconnect the earth cable (-) from the battery.
Do not confuse voltage regulator cable with generator cable. Mark the cables with adhesive tape before disconnecting.
Do not disconnect the battery or voltage regulator while the engine is running.
Do not remove the alternator with the battery connected.
When carrying out electric welding work on machines, always disconnect the battery.
Generator voltage check
1. Connect a voltmeter to the positive and negative terminals of the battery.
2. Start the engine. The voltage during start-up must drop to 8 V (at an outside temperature of + 20 ° C).
3. Raise the engine speed to 3000 rpm. The voltage should be between 13.5 V - 14.5 V. This is proof that the generator and regulator are working. The alternator voltage (on-board voltage) must be higher than the battery voltage in order for the battery to be charged during operation.
4. Check the stability of the regulator. To do this, turn on the main beam and repeat the measurement at 3000 rpm. The measured voltage should not exceed the previously measured voltage by more than 0.4 V.
5. If the measured values are outside the required value, have the generator checked by a workshop.
2. Disconnect the weight cable (-) from the storage battery.
After disconnecting the battery, the memory of the radio receiver and electronic control units is erased.If the radio is coded, remember the radio code before disconnecting the battery. Without the code, after connecting the battery, the radio will not work.
3. If equipped, disconnect the air hose at the rear of the generator.
4. Remove the protective cap, disconnect the thick wire (B +) and thin (D +) (see Fig. Generator connection diagram) from the contacts (1) and (2).
5. 4-cylinder petrol engine: Loosen the screws from the generator bracket. To do this, insert a 6 mm Allen key at the front into the hole in the toothed belt guard and unscrew the screws.
6. 5-cylinder engines and 4-cylinder diesel engine: Loosen the screws on the generator bracket.
7. Loosen and remove the V-belt. V-toothed belt machines
8. Belt drive with idler pulley: Raise idler pulley with lever VW 3299 or pry bar, loosen the V-toothed belt and remove from the alternator belt pulley.
9. Belt drive without idler pulley: push the alternator down using the VW-3297 lever or pry bar, loosen the V-toothed belt and remove from the alternator belt pulley.
The bracket screws (1, 2) must be loosened at least 1 turn.
10. Unscrew the generator bracket screws and remove the generator.
Current time: 10/19/18, 9:13 PM
Dima35 "01.10.08, 22:32 T4 Generator. No charging until you turn it on.
Valery » 01.10.08, 22:42
ALEK_598 "01.10.08, 22:50 Re: Generator. No charging until you turn it on.
Oleggg "02.10.08, 00:24 Re: Generator. No charging until you turn it on.
95% diodes. I had this.
Maxidrive » 02.10.08, 07:08
R.V.R » 03.10.08, 07:48
Sinister » 03.10.08, 07:56
Dima35 » 03.10.08, 18:34
Dima35 » 28.10.08, 22:21
We changed the diode bridge to Kuntsevo, together with bearings. But the result is zero. And the voltage on the excitation wire is 11.8v.
Later it turned out that there is voltage, but the current strength when connected to the excitation of the generator is so small that the excitation at idle does not actually occur. I tried to start the car altogether with the excitation wire disconnected, charging on h.x. no, but as soon as you gasp, it appears. You supply + 12V directly from the generator and charging appears.
I had to chemistry the circuit, supply + 12V to the generator excitation through the relay from the ignition (without the relay, the car simply does not turn off afterwards).
The question is tormenting, where is it all the same and what burned out in the standard wiring?
Dima35 » 28.10.08, 22:24
also » 28.10.08, 23:47
Barmaley- "10.29.08, 06:58 About the gene
KingoftheROAD » 30.10.08, 00:06
VALDEMAR "01.20.09, 12:05 Re:
Dima_35 wrote: We changed the diode bridge in Kuntsevo, together with the bearings. But the result is zero. And the voltage on the excitation wire is 11.8v.
Later it turned out that there is voltage, but the current strength when connected to the excitation of the generator is so small that the excitation at idle does not actually occur. I tried to start the car altogether with the excitation wire disconnected, charging on h.x. no, but as soon as you gasp, it appears. You supply + 12V directly from the generator and charging appears.
I had to chemistry the circuit, supply + 12V to the generator excitation through the relay from the ignition (without the relay, the car simply does not turn off afterwards).
The question is tormenting, where is it all the same and what burned out in the standard wiring?
Good day to all! Apparently + does not come to excite the generator, it is necessary to look at its path according to the scheme, or the fuse that is responsible for this circuit.
hamster 36 "01.20.09, 12:23 Re: Generator. No charging until you turn it on.
VOLKSWAGEN MINIBUS OWNERS CLUB
Message user_t4 » 21.06.2008, 01:44:26 #31
Message den47rus » 25.06.2008, 12:56:29 #32
Guys, tell me URGENTLY pliz.
How to disassemble a Boshevsky generator.
Can anyone have a detailed schematic?
already almost crying, not halved. 
traveled to work almost off-road, wedged both bearings .. I want to change.
AAB 1992 Long - was
ACV 2001 Long - was
ACV 2001 Long - available now
Message Michael » 25.06.2008, 13:33:00 #33
Message Ilya » 25.06.2008, 18:01:19 #34
Message den47rus » 25.06.2008, 22:26:09 #35
AAB 1992 Long - was
ACV 2001 Long - was
ACV 2001 Long - available now
Generator switching circuit
Location of the V-toothed belt of a 4-cylinder engine
1. Generator
2. Bypass roller
3.Air conditioning compressor
4. Power steering pump
5. Crankshaft
6. Bypass roller
7. Tension roller
8. V-toothed belt
Instead of an air conditioning compressor, a second generator can be installed.
After disconnecting the battery, the memory of the radio receiver and electronic control units is erased. If the radio is coded, remember the radio code before disconnecting the battery. Without the code, after connecting the battery, the radio will not work.
The bracket screws (1, 2) must be loosened by at least 1 turn.
When the test lamp does not go out during normal engine operation, the malfunction is most likely in the generator itself. True, a short circuit in the section of the circuit between the test lamp and the generator gives the same result.
Also check with the indicator for the presence of voltage on the large connector on the generator. It should always be here - if not, then check the connection of the generator to the battery. If your vehicle's voltage regulator is separate from the alternator, then it may also be faulty. In this case, it is better to remove the generator and voltage regulator and contact an auto electrician.
The simplest way to check the generator load current is to turn on the side lights of the car and start the engine. If the lights do not start to burn brighter when the engine is running, then this is the best proof that the generator is not delivering current. If you have a voltmeter, connect it to the battery terminals and start the engine. At high idle speed, the generator should generate current, and the voltmeter should show about 14 V. Do the readings differ by more than 1 V? Either the generator or the voltage regulator is faulty.
In many cases, the constant burning of the control lamp signals a malfunction of the generator, but malfunctions are possible in another place, and the generator, paradoxically, at this time may be serviceable.
And yet, for most car owners, the control light is the only indicator of the generator's health. The most common causes of abnormal functioning of the charge warning lamp and typical situations are shown in the table. For example, the line “The control lamp does not light up” implies that the ignition should already be on, and at the same time it does not mean that the engine should be started. Generator faults are listed in ascending order of likelihood of occurrence. Faults in italics are not directly related to the generator. Below is a table that explains what some of the above problems can cause.
Typical malfunctions reflected by the charge indicator lamp
1. Generator
2. Bypass roller
3. Air conditioning compressor
4. Power steering pump
5. Crankshaft
6. Bypass roller
7. Tension roller
8. V-toothed belt
Instead of an air conditioning compressor, a second generator can be installed.
Here are photo reports on repair and detailed documentation on cars:
Volkswagen Transporter T4 (model code: 70A, 70E, 70H, 70J, 70L, 70M) 1991 - 1996
Volkswagen Caravelle T4 / Volkswagen Caravelle T4 (model code: 70C, 70K) 1991 - 1996
Volkswagen Multivan T4 / Volkswagen Multivan T4 (model code: 70B) 1991 - 1996
Volkswagen Transporter T4 (model code: 7DA, 7DB, 7DE, 7DH, 7DJ) 1996 - 2003
Volkswagen Caravelle T4 1996 - 2003
Volkswagen Multivan T4 / Volkswagen Multivan T4 (model code: 7DC) 1996 - 2003
Cylinder head repair on Volkswagen Caravelle Т4 - ACV engine (AJT, AHY, AXG, AYC, AYY, AXL, AUF) (rus.) Detailed photo report.
The ACV engine was installed on the following vehicles: VW Transporter T4 (70), VW Transporter T4 (7D).
Replacing the drive belt on the AAA VR6 2.8 engine (rus.) Photo report
It's time for a little service. It is recommended to change the drive belt every 120 thousand, plus the fact that it is one for everything on this engine. Recently, the belt began to whistle, and why squeeze the maximum, in general, the replacement procedure is described in this report.
Determination of turbine overflow by logs, TDI engines, etc. (rus.) Photo report
The most pressing problem in turbocharged engines is the occurrence of an overflow. This is especially true for diesel engines. the formation of soot in the exhaust gases leads to its rapid accumulation inside the turbine and wedging of the geometry. First, let's try to figure out how the inflation pressure is regulated, and then let's look at what the blowout looks like in the logs.
Power loss during acceleration, turbine underflow, description of problems, removal of logs and diagnostics (rus.)
In case of problems associated with the loss of power during acceleration, both constant and variable loss of traction when driving. Loss of traction in "full throttle" mode or the transition of the engine to emergency mode (driving, but not pulling or pulling weakly) read this entire text carefully, and 9 out of 10 that this will help you establish the exact cause of the problem.
Technical characteristics and data for adjustments of vehicle systems:
engine and cooling system, ignition, fuel system, suspension, liquid volumes, etc.
Volkswagen T4 Caravelle / Transporter / Multivan since 1990: Lubrication system (rus.) Engines: AAC, AAF, ACU, AET, APL, AVT, AES, AMW, 1X, ABL, AJA, AAB, AJT, ACV, AUF, AXL, AYC, AHY, AXG.
Information on the repair of engines VAG / Engines repair
This engine repair information applies to all VAG vehicles. In order to quickly find the documentation for your engine, simply press Ctrl-F on the keyboard and type the letters of your engine. For example: 2E or BSE (English only!)
Cooling, heating, ventilation and air conditioning system
(Cooling, Heating, Air Conditioning and Climate Control Systems)
Volkswagen T4 Caravelle / Transporter / Multivan since 1990: Petrol injection system (rus.) Considered VW Digifant systems (engines: AAC, AAF, ACU); Bosch Motronic 3.8.1 / ME 7.1 (engines: AES, AMV); Simos 5S / 3.5 / 3.5 (engines: AET, APL, AVT)
Injection and ignition systems
This information on injection systems applies to all VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles.
General information on ignition systems
Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi
General information on fuel systems
Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi
Disassembly of the inner and outer CV joints (rus.) Photo report.
When replacing the boot, if dirt has got into the grease, the CV joint must be disassembled, rinsed from the old grease, then assembled and filled with new grease. This work is not at all difficult, but it requires accuracy and attention.
General Suspension Information
Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi
Airbag "spiral" repair, airbag slip ring restoration (rus.) Photo report
Let me disagree with the statements about the unrepairability of the “Airbag spiral”. As they say, “the collective farm was a success for me. "So we need: a soldering iron, a tester, a cross screwdriver, a thin slotted screwdriver, flux, tin, a skin or mini drill, accuracy, patience.
Information on the repair of gearboxes VAG / Transmission repair
This gearbox repair information applies to all VAG vehicles.
Repair of the Bosch starter No. 0 001 108 094 (1.4 kW), replacement of components (rus.) Photo report
Once I heard how my starter began to "idle" shriek. I purchased the bushings for replacement. After reading the forum, I saw that many describe the procedure for removing the starter, so I decided not to repeat myself. But some of the nuances directly related to the disassembly of the starter and the further replacement of parts are not reflected in so much detail, I hope this report will correct this.
Replacing bearings in alternators Bosch 90A and 65A (rus.) Photo report
The 90A VAG generator number 026 903 015B, Bosch number 0 120 469 729 was installed on many cars, the grinding and rumble when the generator is running indicate that its bearings need to be changed.
Replacing the slip rings of the Bosch 65 Amp generator (rus.) Photo report
The consequences of worn slip rings - there will be no normal charging of the battery and the brushes of even a new relay-regulator will wear off faster. How to replace them in this report.
Volkswagen T4 Caravelle / Transporter / Multivan from 09/1990, petrol / diesel. Repair and maintenance (rus.) The book contains information necessary for the repair of all components and assemblies of a car: engine, fuel system, exhaust system, clutch, gearbox, steering, braking system, tires and tires, bodywork, electrical equipment, accessories. Recommendations for car care are given. The manuals are intended for professionals and car enthusiasts and include over 400 illustrations, fault tables, colored wiring diagrams. Petrol engines: 2.0 l / 62 kW (84 hp), with 9/90 2.5 l / 81 kW (110 hp), 12/90 - 7/96 2.5 l / 85 kW (115 HP), from 8/96 2.8 l / 103 kW (140 HP), from 1/96 - 5/00 2.8 l / 150 kW (204 HP) , from 5/00 Diesel engines: 1.9 l / 45 kW (60 HP), 9/90 - 7/96 1.9 l / 50 kW (68 HP), from 10/92 2 , 4 l / 55 kW (75 hp), from 4/97 2.4 l / 57 kW (78 hp), 9/90 - 3/97 2.5 l / 65 kW (88 hp) .s.), from 4/98 2.5 l / 75 kW (102 HP), from 8/95 2.5 l / 111 kW (150 HP), from 4/98. 350 pages. 72 MB.
If you did not find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car.
With a high degree of probability, the information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car as well.
All documentation in English is marked (eng.), In German - (ger.)
For everyone who has a Volkswagen, hands and the desire to do something with them.
For all who has Volkswagen, hands and desire to do something by them.
If the generator cannot be repaired on the Volkswagen Transporter T4, we will replace the generator with a new or rebuilt one. Repair of a Volkswagen Transporter T4 generator takes 1-2 days, depending on the complexity of the repair. The feasibility of repair or replacement is determined on the spot by the master after diagnostics.
Running spare parts for the repair of the Volkswagen Transporter T4 generator are always in our warehouse. Also, for some models we keep remanufactured (sorted out) generators, for which we give a 6-month warranty. Please note that we do not accept generators that have been removed from the vehicle ourselves for repair. We initially do diagnostics on a car, we remove, repair and put back on ourselves.
If, after diagnostics, it turns out that repairing an old generator is more expensive than a new one, we will replace the generator with a new one from our warehouse.
The cost of repairing and replacing a generator with a Volkswagen Transporter T4:
They took a car to Avtosoyuz, which did not react to the ignition switch in any way. They called that the problem is in the generator. They will give it to the office, which is repairing it. We will be told the amount of repairs and we will decide.
The sokonfetnik gave the coordinates of the person who sells the ZCh, but there they told me that it was possible to determine not by the engine (T4 ’99, 1.9TD, ABL), but by the characteristics of the generator.
Where can I find them on the internet for this machine.
In general, look for a new generator (who can give the coordinates) or repair the old one?
Well, in any case on disassembly, a normal 65 ampere no more than 70 tanks should be worth it. From here and dance. otherwise they'll bill you for a gold bar.
In response to:
They took a car to Avtosoyuz, which did not react to the ignition switch in any way... Called that the problem in generator.
How to say so gently. In the ABL, there is no brain for so much, if the generator is faulty and the battery is in good condition, do not use the electrics on the key.
The Auto Union is annealing as always.
Check - put in a working battery. Look what gene gives out on a STARTED car!
There are people on this kind of electricity - I can connect.
In response to:
In response to:
They took a car to Avtosoyuz, which did not react to the ignition switch in any way... Called that the problem in generator.
How to say so gently. In the ABL, there is no brain for so much, if the generator is faulty and the battery is in good condition, do not use the electrics on the key.
The Auto Union is annealing as always.
Check - put in a working battery. Look what gene gives out on a STARTED car!
There are people on this kind of electricity - I can connect.
While I was away, my father hastily bought a new battery, and the old one managed to hand over.
The car did not respond even when connecting wires from another car (from VW LT)
oops didn’t read it carefully, but what does the generator have to do with it then
how would I hit the electricians on the hands
And what can be with such symptoms:
1. In the morning at PN at start-up, a low oil pressure sign and a battery undercharge symbol appear.
The oil is topped up at the mark between MAX and MIN. But even after topping up, these symbols are lit.
On the fly, the undercharged and low oil pressure symbols go out
2. Tuesday morning 0 reaction to turning the ignition switch. Zero reaction to lighting from another car.
Uhhh how interesting and entertaining it is! Go to the Electrician in Vishnevenkoe, a hike where it is in the trawl harness. It is necessary to check. There it will be possible to buy a used tourniquet if it is inexpensive.
I. can it still make sense to pull the fuses? Bo seems to have started to burn some kind of lead, then he safely burned out. This is confirmed by the light bulbs that have escaped from the blind, and, of the type, recovered.
Since the splinter was jumping, the fuse somehow died - look which one and calculate in which direction to dig. something like this.
In response to:
Uhhh how interesting and entertaining it is! Go to the Electrician in Vishnevenkoe, a hike where it is in the trawl harness. It is necessary to check. There it will be possible to buy a used tourniquet if it is inexpensive.
I. can it still make sense to pull the fuses? Bo seems to have started to burn some kind of lead, then he safely burned out. This is confirmed by the light bulbs that have escaped from the blind, and, of the type, recovered.
Since the splinter was jumping, the fuse somehow died - look which one and calculate in which direction to dig. something like this.
So the car simply did not go, it would not start from someone else's food. Well, my company is nearby, I asked and the branded LT-shka extended to the Avtosoyuz.
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message andrey bobkov »26 Jan 2013, 10:00
Message Sanyok58 "26 Jan 2013, 15:32
Message andrey bobkov »26 Jan 2013, 21:08
Message barbos16 »27 Mar 2013, 08:11
Message Seroshtanov Dmitry »10 Sep 2013, 19:13
Message tramp »10 Sep 2013, 19:49
Message Dimitriy »13 Sep 2013, 19:23
4. Remove the belt from the pump by loosening the fastening of the hydraulic booster pump.
5. Remove the fasteners of the units by unscrewing the four nuts
6. Next, unscrew the pump mount as well as 4 nuts and bring it out with a pulley towards you (as convenient) without disconnecting the liner. In my case, this was possible because the air conditioner compressor was removed, if this does not work out for you, then it is also necessary to disconnect the hoses and possibly remove the hydraulic booster pump.
7. Unscrew all the bolts on the pump (we recalculate them so that later we can screw everything as it should), unscrew the pulley.
In this video, I described in detail how to replace the timing belts and set the injection, which is also the ignition on the car.
Replacing the pump and timing belt - Volkswagen Transporter T4, tags.
Timing belt tags Volkswagen T4 2.5 Reshyl will share his experience on replacing the timing belt with T4 and so on. ... alternator belt roller, crankshaft pulley (central.
I replaced all the filters, the nozzles are in order, the plunger pair was replaced, the tank is clean, it develops revolutions only up to three thousand and at the same time it dulls, it does not run more than 100 km, the turbine does not throw clean oil in order, before that the timing belt was replaced and the timing belt began to work ok, after 5 days blunt back!
Does Polina turn on cold normally? the International Federation of Journalists began to suck in the air.
Nadezhda Check the DMRV. If everything is done, then there is practically nothing more to smoke the brain with. Sometimes Artyom helps to wash him with alcohol. In general, diagnostics are in your hands.
Olesya Probably the problem is in the fuel pump. Or something got into the air duct after the filter. Even with the checkpoint, there may be a jamb.
T4 disassembled to replace timing belts - YouTube
How to remove and replace the timing belt Volkswagen T4 1 9l turbodiesel vw t4 1.9 turbo diesel 1999 video - Duration: 20:58. Autoresource TM.
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There is something in this. Thank you so much for your help in this matter, now I will not make such a mistake.
Nice selection of thanks. I'll throw off a couple for my collection)))
You're not right. I'm sure. I can defend my position. Email me at PM, we will discuss.
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You are making a mistake. I propose to discuss it.
