DIY generator for vaz repair

A car generator is an important mechanism, without which you will not go far if it breaks down. As a rule, if it stopped recharging the car battery or malfunctions, then you should first check the tension of the alternator drive belt. If the belt is in order, then you need to start removing, disassembling and repairing the generator, because buying a new one will be much more expensive than replacing some worn out parts (they are very cheap). In fact, the procedure is not complicated, but a little painstaking, the main thing is to put everything together correctly.

We repaired the generator on a VAZ 2110 car (for 2111, 2112 a similar procedure), if you have a model 2106, then see the diagram of the VAZ 2106 generator. There are some differences.

2. Make a longitudinal mark on the generator body with a marker, it will be useful later during assembly.

3. Use the handles to squeeze the three latches on the top cover.

5. Remove the 2 screws holding the voltage regulator.

6. Disconnect the wire from the regulator terminal.

7. Now carefully remove it with the brush holder.

8. Unscrew the screw that secures the capacitor and 4 more that secure the unit itself.

9. Further, in order to remove the rectifier unit, it is necessary to take out 3 wires with a terminal.

10. Now take out the rectifier unit with the capacitor.

11. Now from the rectifier unit, unscrew the nut from the contact bolt, remove the washer with the spacer fork and replace the capacitor. Remove the cap of the capacitor wire from the contact bolt.

13. Next, from the side of the slip rings, using a screwdriver, pry off the cover of the car generator.

14. Press in a vise (so as not to spin) the generator rotor and unscrew the nut that holds the pulley, and then remove the spring washer and the pulley itself.

Video (click to play).

16. On the drive side, remove the rotor from the cover.

17. Now remove the spacer ring from the rotor shaft.

18. Check the slip rings, if they have pronounced defects (scratches, galls), then they need to be sanded with fine emery paper. If it is impossible to grind them with sandpaper, then this can be done on a lathe (only you need to remove as small a layer of metal as possible), and then sand again with a fine sandpaper.

19. Next, you need to check the resistance of the rotor winding using an ohmmeter (tester). To do this, you need to connect it to the slip rings. If the tester gives "infinity", it will mean that there is a break in one of the windings, this can only be corrected by a complete replacement of the rotor.

20. Then we check with a test lamp if there is a short circuit in the winding on the rotor housing. This is done as follows: turn on an ordinary incandescent lamp in the 220 V network and lean one wire against the generator body, and the second one, first on the first ring, and then on the second. In any case, the lamp should not light up. If, nevertheless, ignition occurs in any of the positions, then the entire rotor should also be replaced with a new one. By the way, in this case, you can use a small 12 V lamp and a car battery, it is easier and safer.

21. Further, if all is well with the rotor, proceed to inspect the stator. On its inner side, there should not be any traces of the armature rubbing against the stator. If these symptoms are observed, then only the bearings should be replaced or the entire generator cover assembly with bearings should be replaced.

22. Further, as with the rotor, we check if there is an open circuit in the stator winding. We connect the test lamp to alternating current and alternately lean the test lamp between all the terminals of the winding.Only in this case, the lamp should be on, if at least at one of the moments it did not light up, - replace the stator with a new one or only the winding.

23. Now check the short circuit of the stator windings to the housing. If you connect a test lamp to the terminal of the stator winding, and the wire from the power source to the stator housing, then ignition should not occur. If the lamp lights up, then again there is only one way out - to replace only the winding or the entire stator.

24. Inspect the drive end cover of the generator assembly with bearing. If during the rotation of the bearing you feel a play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged or there are traces of grease leakage, and cracks are found in the cover, especially in the places where the generator is attached, it is necessary to replace the cover assembly with the bearing (the bearing is rolled in the cover) ...

25. On the side of the slip rings, it is necessary to check the free rotation of the bearing. If, during the rotation of the bearing, play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements is felt, the protective rings are damaged or there are traces of grease leakage, then the bearing must be replaced with a new one. To do this, press the bearing off the rotor shaft using a puller and press on a new one using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the bearing inner ring.

26. Check the cover of the car alternator from the side of the slip rings. If it has serious defects, then replace it with a new one.

27. Now the most difficult and decisive moment of all your actions is to put everything back together in the order of disassembling the generator. Only at the end, close the lid correctly (according to the marks set earlier). Place the spring washer of the generator pulley with the convex side to the nut, and tighten the latter to a torque of 39–62 N • m (3.9–6.2 kgf • m).

So the repair of the car generator is over, good luck and no more breakdown!

It is not uncommon for car drivers to face a problem. The generator provides little or no battery power.
What to do, especially if the charge lamp on the instrument panel is on? It's simple. The generator needs to be repaired.

As you know, over time, some elements of the generator become unusable. This also applies to the component of the VAZ 2110 car.
Repairing a generator in this case will require a little patience and a set of necessary tools. And you can always buy a new one, but why spend money if you can do everything yourself?
In general, it is recommended to change it after 50 thousand kilometers.

When repairing a generator, you will need the following tools:

• socket wrench 17 (it must have a special extension);
• wrench 10;
• ohmmeter;
• three-grip puller;
• a special mandrel to help extrude the front bearing;
• a special mandrel to help push out the rear bearing.

These tools will actually help carry out all dismantling works on the VAZ 2110 on their own. The generator, the repair of which is directly related to dismantling, implies the following actions.

Correctly removing a part means already doing half of the job. In this case, you will need to do the following:

• lift the car onto the overpass or drive into the inspection pit;
• remove the battery by first loosening the terminals (dismantling the battery is needed in order to provide convenient access to the upper nut that fixes the generator);
• unscrew the nut that fixes the generator with the adjusting bar (during the operation, use a socket wrench 17 with an extension);

dismantling a generator on a vaz 2110

• first you need to remove the mudguard, which is located in the engine compartment;
• then remove the alternator drive belt;
• disconnect the wires from the center terminal of the stator and terminal 67;

• remove the protective cap;
• unscrew the nut that fixes the tip with the plus terminal to the battery (in this operation, a key 10 is used);

removing the nut securing the tip

• after that, unscrew the nut fixing the generator with the bracket using the 19 socket wrench (the bracket is located on the surface of the cylinder block);
• remove the long bolt and remove the generator.

Carrying out this operation, you need to be very careful so as not to lose the buffer sleeve.

To carry out work of this type, it is necessary:

• thoroughly clean the generator from dirt;
• using an ohmmeter, connect the positive wire to the terminal, and the negative wire to the generator case (if a value close to zero is shown, this means a breakdown of one of the diodes or a short circuit of the stator winding);

• we check the positive diodes (using the above method, only the negative wire is connected to one of the bolts securing the rectifier unit);
• we check the reliability of the fit of the brushes with slip rings and the absence of a short circuit in the excitation winding (we connect the ohmmeter wire to the terminal located on the surface of the generator);
• remove the brush holder and make several clicks on the brushes (if they move easily, then everything is fine, and if not, then it should be replaced);
• we check the absence of a short circuit in the rotor winding on the generator (we connect the ohmmeter wire to the generator case, the other one to the rotor ring and look: if a value close to zero is shown, then a short circuit is observed);

checking the absence of a short circuit

I would also like to point out some little things when checking this component of the VAZ 2110. It is not necessary to completely repair the generator if malfunctions of the rotor, capacitor, brush holder or stator are detected.
Replacing them will result in normal operation. In the event that a malfunction of one of the diodes is detected, the entire rectifier assembly is replaced.

Often, the cause of a generator malfunction lies in the bearings. Their check should begin with an external examination. We are looking for cracks in the clips, the presence of corrosion and other similar components.
In general, bearings should not have strong play and make noise. Ideally, they should rotate easily. If severe wear or damage is found, the bearings must be replaced.
So, if there is a situation when:

• the generator howls - it means that it should be removed, disassembled, eliminated malfunctions in the stator and rectifier unit;
• if the generator does not howl, then you need to tighten the nut for securing the fan pulley;
• if, after tightening the fastening nut, the generator began to howl, it means that you need to wipe the brushes and slip rings with a rag soaked in gasoline;
• if after that the generator howls - replace the bearings.

To check correctly, you need to rotate the bearing ring from side to side. This must be done vigorously in order to be able to recognize significant backlash.
The ring must rotate freely and not jam. Also, no extraneous noise should be heard.

rear bearing of the generator vaz 2110

The VAZ 2110 generator, the repair of which depends on the operation of all components, can also "junk" because of the front bearing. It should also be rotated from side to side while holding the pulley with your hand.
If jamming or noise is found, it is advisable to replace the bearing. Replacing the front bearing, as recommended by the manufacturer, can be done with the cover assembly, but it will cost a pretty penny.
It is advisable and more expedient to independently press out and replace the bearing, which is much cheaper without a cover. Often you have to replace the generator itself.
Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2110 implies a thorough check.
Normal generator performance can be detected by applying the following steps:

• unscrew the nut with a 19 socket wrench that secures the pulley and the impeller of the generator (use a screwdriver to hold the rotor);

loosening the generator nut

Not such a complicated system for the VAZ 2110. Do-it-yourself repair of the generator, after the nut has been unscrewed, implies the dismantling of all parts: the pulley, the cooling impeller, the locking washers and the segmented key.

generator parts disassembled

You can dig further with your own hands if the cause of the malfunction has not been found. Using a 10 key, unscrew the four nuts of the generator cover and remove the connecting bolts.
Then squeeze the front cover off the stator, dismantle the cover. It will look like this:

Thus, the condition of the bearing is checked, which is described in detail above. Usually, the price for them in stores is low, so if any faults are found, it is better to replace them immediately.

Welcome!
A generator is an electrical appliance that supplies current to the car's on-board network and charges the battery when the engine is running, if it fails, then the first problem that starts with the car is the battery charge lamp (we'll talk about this lamp a little later) and on the car in the direct sense after that you can't drive, the whole point is that the ignition system of any car that runs on gasoline consumes electricity and conducts it (high-voltage wires, spark plugs and other units are connected), thereby the engine is running, and if suddenly the battery runs out and current will no longer be supplied to the on-board network, then the car will simply stall and will no longer start until the battery is charged again.

Note!
To carry out the generator repair procedure, you will need to stock up on: Necessarily a multi-meter and, if possible, a control lamp, as well as a screwdriver, various kinds of keys (spanners, caps, and so on), in addition, you will also need a marker and a fine-grained skin!

Summary:

Note!
As you already understood, the best way to check is with the help of a multi-meter, which has a voltmeter function (and everyone has one), so if you still decide to check it, then remember the current that should be on the battery when the engine is running equals about 13-14.5 volts, if it is less then either the battery is completely discharged, or the generator has become unusable, in this case, try to accelerate, for this, briefly press the gas pedal and remove your foot from it, if the current supply has increased, then the battery is discharged , if nothing happened, then try to do this again and remember, if the current is less than 12 volts, which is no longer acceptable, then after a very short time the battery will be completely discharged and you will no longer be able to start the car (To start the car, you need at least 11.5 volts , if the battery produces less, then starting the engine will already be problematic)!

Note!
The generator is not very difficult to understand, it is difficult to check it, especially if you don’t know how to use the multi-meter, and even if you can, there may still be errors, it’s just that the multi-meter will not always be able to show accurate data (Each has its own error) and therefore we recommend that you, before proceeding to work on disassembly, simply disconnect the cover from the generator and check the brushes (They most often fail) and, if necessary, replace them with new ones (By the way, if only one brushes are worn out, then even the generator can not be removed from the car, but simply disconnect the cover from it and, armed with a short screwdriver, unscrew the two screws that fasten the voltage regulator and then, taking out the regulator, look at the very brushes that are located on it and which must be replaced with strong wear)!

Disassembly:
1) First, remove it (How to remove a generator, read the article: "Replacing a generator on VAZ cars"), then on the sides, bend three latches that attach the plastic cover, thanks to which dirt and water does not get into the generator, after the latches will be bent (just do not break them), remove the cover from the generator and put it aside, as shown in the small photo.

2) Then unscrew the two side screws that attach the voltage regulator to the generator (the screws are indicated by red arrows, and the regulator itself is blue) and then remove the regulator from the generator, well, only when you take it off, disconnect the wiring from it like in the photo in the corner shown, otherwise the regulator simply will not be removed from the car generator.

4) After that, unscrew the four screws that secure the diode bridge to the generator and bend the three wire leads that are connected to the diode bridge so that they allow it to be removed and do not interfere at all, after the operation done, do not rush to remove the diode bridge, but unscrew another screw that the capacitor secures or unscrew the nut that secures the wire coming from it, and only then can you remove the diode bridge from the generator, you can read more about this capacitor below.

Note!
Capacitor - thanks to it, the current coming from the diode bridge is leveled and goes to the battery more even, without interruptions and without strong fluctuations, you can remove it both together with the diode bridge, and separately, if you want together, just unscrew the screw that secures it (Indicated red arrow) and then remove, if you want separately, then unscrew the nut which attaches the capacitor wire to the hairpin (indicated by the blue arrow) and then remove this wire from the hairpin!

5) Next, take the marker in your hands and make a mark on both covers as shown in the small photo, after these marks are made, unscrew four screws in a circle (Three of them are indicated by arrows, one is not visible) and disconnect both covers.

6) Next, unscrew the nut that secures the generator pulley (It is indicated by the red arrow) and then remove the pulley, it can be most easily unscrewed by clamping the rotor (This is only when the covers are already disconnected) in a vice, but just clamp it gently, and even better put some cloth, as soon as the nut is unscrewed, remove the rotor shaft from the bearing which is in the cover (see small photo), then remove the spacer ring from the shaft and inspect it.

7) And at the end of all operations, inspect the last parts and check some of them, namely, inspect both covers, there should be no cracks or traces of deformation on them, check both bearings (Front and rear), they must rotate normally, do not stick where they should not and grease should not flow from them either, otherwise the bearings are pressed out using a special puller and replaced with new ones, then take the stator in your hands and inspect it, it should be in good condition and there should be absolutely no bare wiring, using a test lamp, check it, for this, turn on the control to the 220 Volt network and alternately connect it between all the terminals as shown in photo 1, with each connection the lamp should light up, otherwise the stator is faulty and the stator still needs to be checked if it does not close to ground, this is also done easily and with the help of the same control lamp, look in more detail at f from 2, there the lamp is alternately connected to all terminals of the stator winding, and the wire from the current source to the stator case, but only in this case the lamp should not light, if it is on, then this means that there is a short circuit and the stator must be replaced with a new one.

Assembly:
All the parts are assembled in the reverse order, only during assembly, orient the covers as they were installed before (Everything is done according to the marks), and the spring washer of the generator pulley will need to be placed with the convex side to the nut and the pulley fastening nut, tighten with a torque of 39- 62 N • m (3.9-b, 2 kgf • m), which can be done with a torque wrench and what else, during assembly, orient the capacitor (if you removed it together with the diode bridge) relative to the mounting protrusion on the cover , just like it is in the photo below.

Additional video clip:
You can see the process of overhauling the generator on VAZ 2110 cars in the video below: