Do-it-yourself power steering sable repair

To facilitate control of the Sable, the manufacturer installs a hydraulic booster. If you have difficulties in repairing Sobol power steering with your own hands, our video will tell you quick and effective ways to restore the power steering.

If the owner noticed that the gur pump does not work, further repair of the unit on Sobol should begin with determining the reasons for the failure. The main ones are described below, as well as recovery options.

1. Poor system strap tension. The solution to the problem is position adjustment or replacement.
2. Mechanical problems. In this case, the repair of power steering (GUR) Gazelle, UAZ, Sobol, Volga must begin with diagnosing the state of the components.
3. The steering wheel turns poorly. The reason for this can be either a low oil level in the system, or belt wear. You should also pay attention to the engine speed and the condition of the filter - it may be clogged.
4. The pump refused to run. To restore the power steering pump of a Sable car, you need to purchase a new repair kit and replace all seals / oil seals / other parts.
5. The presence of extraneous sounds and clicks. The reason is severe wear of the controls. To view the power steering repair manual, open the video on this page.
6. Absence of normal pressure of the working fluid. Practice shows that this is due to poor operation of the pump, or the presence of a leak in the system.
7. Wear or damage to tires. The only solution is to install a new kit. Riding on damaged tires is highly discouraged.

For further repair of the power steering pump quickly with your own hands, our video will always be useful. The wizard gives detailed explanations, and also shows the sequence of actions when repairing power steering on Sobol.

The purpose of the power steering is to provide more comfortable steering wheel control. Today, the power steering system is installed on the Gazelle and on many modern cars. You can learn more about the device, malfunctions and unit repair at home from this material.

Both the electric power steering on the Gazelle and the power steering are designed for more comfortable steering. First, let's take a look at the power steering device on the Gazelle. We are talking about both the Gazelle Business with a 405 engine and other models of this line.

So, what is the device of the system:

1. Power steering pump. This element of the circuit ensures optimal circulation of the consumable in the system, as well as pressure.
2. Steering gearbox with distribution element. This device allows you to provide an air flow necessary to direct the oil into the desired cylinder cavity or back into the tank.
3. Another component of the system is the cylinder. With its help, the conversion of the pressure of the consumable material into the movement of the piston, as well as the rod, is ensured.
4. The consumable itself, that is, oil. The fluid transfers the force from the power steering pump to the cylinder. In addition, the oil provides lubrication for all rubbing elements of the device.

Like any unit, the power steering can fail from time to time.

The main malfunctions and methods of their elimination are given below:

1. The system drive strap is worn out or is not tight enough. In this case, the belt is either changed or its position is adjusted.
2. The steering wheel turns poorly, this can be due to both wear of the strap and a low oil level in the system, a reduced number of engine revolutions, a clogged filter. In addition, the problem may be low pump pressure or an air lock in the lines.Depending on the problem, the solution may be to add consumables, adjust the idle speed, change the filter, or repair the pump. It will not be superfluous to check the tightness of the connections.
3. Mechanical failure in the operation of the steering system, you need to diagnose it.
4. If the pump does not work, you need to either repair it using a repair kit, or change the oil seals.
5. Steering elements are worn or the drive geometry is broken. Defective parts should be replaced.
6. If the hydraulic fluid is discharged through the relief valve, locate the leak and fix the problem. The reason may lie in the inoperability of the pump, you should check its working pressure.
7. Damage or wear of tires, it is necessary to identify the faulty elements and replace or repair them.

As you might have guessed from the previous paragraph, if the power steering on the Gazelle does not work, then this is due to the pump. To repair this element in a car with your own hands, you will need to purchase a repair kit in advance. You can buy it at any thematic store. The main difficulty in repair is that the pump is not collapsible.

The repair procedure is carried out as follows:

1. Dismantle the pump and disassemble in accordance with the instructions that come with the kit.
2. Clean the device from dirt, it is possible that there will be kinds of reasons for the failure on the case. Usually the problem lies in the wear of the oil seal, then it will be necessary to change it. When installing a new oil seal, the roller must be modified.
3. The gland can be installed in several ways. You can build a special recess on the outer part of the element, drill a corresponding threaded hole in the wall of the device, and then fix the gland with screws. You can also fix this part in the middle of the pump using the specially bent body ends.
4. When the replacement of the element is completed, it will be necessary to reassemble the system in reverse order. Please note that after the repair is completed, when the power steering is operating, you may hear an uncharacteristic noise for this. This is a grinding in of a new oil seal, so you should not worry about this. When the repair is over, it is necessary to change the oil in the system.

And what is the first thing to change?
I have it completely new, but only in '98 under number 222.
All this time I lay in the garage.
After reading reviews about fluid leaks from our precious domestic creations, I decided not to risk it, but to sort it out.
I contacted firms for this specialization, they announced 3 thousand I do not understand just for WHAT? -)
the oil seals need to be changed, this is understandable. I found two of them.
Does anyone have experience with bulkheads and what needs to be replaced for every fireman?

Post has been editedShurak 60: 29 May 2013 - 23:15

In fact, nothing complicated, but you need to find a suitable set of oil seals for your power steering. I usually change all the oil seals right away - the kit is only 200 - 300r. And then what to disassemble again.

I will try to describe the process later - there are pitfalls, there is simply no time now. wait a little, and maybe someone else will unsubscribe.

In general, it is real and even without a garage and adapt. I went through several times right on the street, but it is necessary that garbage and sand do not fly into the insides, the atoms will grab the surfaces and throw out the power steering.

I will now describe my process and it may not be the same as the tutorials. Forgive me if I confuse terms and names. Maybe someone will fix it later.

1. Removing the power steering. First, set the wheels to the straight position.
a. First, I drain the oil. To do this, slightly unscrew the oil pipe union at the outlet from the power steering - (that goes to the oil reservoir).
b. Disconnect the oil hoses (unscrew the bolts)
v. Disconnect from steering shaft and tie rods. It's simple on top, but a puller may come in handy below.
D. Unscrew the power steering and remove.

2. Analysis of the power steering. The main thing is to remember what was where.

A.First, the driven shaft is removed.
To do this, unscrew the locking bolts that hold the side bearings, and remove the locking ring, where the shaft sticks out more and where you will knock out, then use a screwdriver and a hammer to rotate the side bearings so that the center of the driven shaft moves further from the main part of the power steering. In general, in order for the gears to move further differently, when you knock out the shaft, it will pull up the surfaces in the power steering case and then you have to grind it down in order to put new oil seals and they will not bulge. Then you just knock out the shaft. Be careful, roller bearings will sprinkle right away - do not lose them.

B. Now we disassemble the drive shaft.
To do this, unscrew the four screws on the top cover and remove the shaft. Then unscrew the nut of the lower bearing and remove it.

B. Disassembly of the drive shaft piston: (This is if the power steering wedges in both directions and generally does not work well). There is only one oil seal and it is never in the repair kits.

G. Change all the oil seals that you see with new ones. Be careful with the bottom PTFE. It can be stretched a little to dress. If you drag it, it will grab. The seals are located inside the side bearings on the shaft, and on the housing for the same bearings. One is on the piston and two on the top cap. Another one on the bottom of the drive shaft (I wrote about it above)

3. Assembling the power steering.
Everything is in the reverse order, only the upper cover is screwed on first, and then the lower bearing is put in and the lower bearing nut (with two holes) is screwed in until it stops. Then the driven shaft is installed. It is worth noting here that at first the upper bearing is assembled and put on the shaft, then the lower bearing is inserted into the power steering housing and locked with a retaining ring (again, the center of the driven shaft has shifted further from the main part of the power steering). Then the bottom bearing is formed and the shaft with the top bearing is carefully inserted. It is important that the rollers do not fall out into the power steering. You can check - shake. They will clatter inside the case. Then put the retaining ring.
After assembly, you need to check if nothing is interfering? To do this, you need to turn the drive shaft - it must make four turns.

4. Power steering adjustment. Unfortunately, I do it by eye.
First, I tighten the lower bearing until it stops. You have to turn it with a hammer and a punch (I couldn't find the key). But do not overtighten so as not to crush the bearings.
Then I bring the eccentrics of the side bearings. They should rotate in one direction, that is, if one is clockwise, then the other is counterclockwise), traces from the locking bolts can be a reference point - they must be combined with the bolts themselves. Then try to tighten it almost to the stop, but so that the rotation of the bearings is the same. It is also impossible to overtighten - the oil seals will quickly wear out.
Then stop.

5.installation of power steering
Everything here is the same as in parsing. The only thing is that the steering wheel is connected first, then turn the steering wheel all the way, and then two turns in the opposite direction - this will be the central position and then put on the bipod.

6. Oil filling and bleeding.
The car must not be started before filling with oil.
When you fill the tank full of oil, start the car, but do not turn the steering wheel. The oil will go away immediately. Top up until it stops leaving and there is less foam. Then turn the steering wheel a little to the sides (but not in place), this will expel the remaining air, a fraction of the level, and small bubbles will go away by themselves. And enjoy the soft work of the GUR.

Sorry for the unprofessional language. Maybe someone else will clarify something and suggest.
I went over my power steering 4 times for 150,000 km. Another 10 times on another machine. A friend helped and disassembled the drive shaft to the screws, but assembled it incorrectly. It took a long time to find the right combination.

And what is the first thing to change?
I have it completely new, but only in '98 under number 222.
All this time I lay in the garage.
After reading reviews about fluid leaks from our precious domestic creations, I decided not to risk it, but to sort it out.
I contacted firms for this specialization, they announced 3 thousand I do not understand just for WHAT? -)
the oil seals need to be changed, this is understandable. I found two of them.
Does anyone have experience with bulkheads and what needs to be replaced for every fireman?

Listen, I'm sorry, I didn't read your question right away.
New - not used? Or was it used and flowed? If not used, then it is better not to touch or disassemble, but to put and drive until it flows. And it flows from above, where the steering shaft enters. There the oil seal can be easily changed without removing the power steering.
And down through the side bearings on the driven shaft. if they are of the old model, then they need to be replaced with a new one with fluoroplastic gaskets - these do not flow longer. To do this, you need to disassemble the power steering.

But even so, it’s better not to climb the trains until it starts flowing. Power steering is disassembled only in case of leaks and poor performance.

Listen, I'm sorry, I didn't read your question right away.
New - not used? Or was it used and flowed? If not used, then it is better not to touch or disassemble, but to put and drive until it flows. And it flows from above, where the steering shaft enters. There the oil seal can be easily changed without removing the power steering.
And down through the side bearings on the driven shaft. if they are of the old model, then they need to be replaced with a new one with fluoroplastic gaskets - these do not flow longer. To do this, you need to disassemble the power steering.

But even so, it’s better not to climb the trains until it starts flowing. Power steering is disassembled only in case of leaks and poor performance.

Thank you very much and I did just that.
I put it down and don't touch it. It works, it doesn't flow, and glory to you Lyokh, who drove it to me-)))
Admins.
The GUR Bulkhead Council thinks that it should be posted for the information of all on public display.
Clearly written and in great detail.

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yus 09 Mar 2010

... And it flows from above, where the steering shaft enters. There the oil seal can be easily changed without removing the power steering. ...

Sergey, can you tell us more about the upper oil seal without removing the power steering, it flows right there. Thank you.

Sergey, about the regulation -
They should turn in one direction, that is, if one is clockwise, then the other is counterclockwise)
No mistake? And if both curry clockwise, what is the risk?

In other words, either both “from oneself” or “from oneself” depending on where to look, but threatens with a bias, they work as eccentrics.

Sergey, can you tell us more about the upper oil seal without removing the power steering, it flows right there. Thank you.

You disconnect the steering shaft, hoses, unscrew the four bolts on the cover and remove it, change the oil seal.
when installing the cover back, be careful with the O-ring, well, you screw everything back and connect it. Don't forget to upgrade.

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Don Vsegdatam de Bazar Apr 26, 2010

And interestingly, the hydrolab puts in Moscow some kind of “own” repair kits. I now think that every new one needs to be touched up and look for good cuffs. Almost everyone is wedging: someone to the right, someone to the left, someone in all directions. The reason is the wear of the seals, not the pump and the high pressure flexible hose. https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2735/i137/1004/63/dbced.

Yes, they do. And with nova they also put their details. I installed the power steering at the beginning of 2008.Since then, I have not even added a drop of oil there.

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Don Vsegdatam de Bazar May 10, 2010

Yes, they do. And with nova they also put their details. I installed the power steering at the beginning of 2008.Since then, I have not even added a drop of oil there.

You most importantly tell me how their seals work at speed, I mean the steering wheel became wadded at speed or how was it? They write that when they are bulked up with their repair kits, the steering wheel becomes as it should be-wadded at speed. What about you?

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demontroina 12 May 2010

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yrtchik 12 May 2010

... guys, and another question, what is wearing out in the power steering pump?, what can you change there? Especially cold. Will fill "dikstron".

can the belt slip? the backlash can be checked at the pump shaft.

... guys, and another question, what is wearing out in the power steering pump?, what can you change there? Especially cold. Will fill "dikstron".

Basically, the rotor blades are worn out, but the noise may not be due to them, the filter, valve, air in the system is clogged.
The belt usually “squeals”.
Post has been edited sharky5: 13 May 2010 - 17:28

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Repairing the power steering is a difficult task, and the work is painstaking. The article is intended for those motorists who are familiar with the structure of the main systems of the car.

Many probably know how to remove the power steering from the car and install it back at the end of the work. Where do you start?

1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not end up in the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.

2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).

3. Taking the hexagon "6", unscrew the steering shaft coupling screws from the bottom of the machine. Do not forget to mark its position with the roll relative to the power steering shaft before doing this.

4. Slide the elastic sleeve off the slots using a pry bar.

5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.

6. Unscrew the car and remove the left front wheel.

7. Taking the socket wrench to "15", loosen from the side of the wheel arch three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member, removing two of them.

8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to glass the liquid.

9. Seal the hoses and fittings at least with a rag.

10. Holding the hydraulic booster under the machine with one hand, unscrew the remaining bolt and do not drop the gearbox on your foot.

11. Before disassembling the gearbox, wash it thoroughly.