In detail: DIY guitar repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Guitars with obvious defects are usually repaired. The foreman, carefully examining the tool, determines the amount of work. Inspection shows whether the repair will be carried out with or without opening the instrument. Opening the guitar means separating the bottom from the body of the guitar.
Use the end of a knife or the edge of a cycle to remove the varnish from the glazing bead glued to the bottom of the guitar. Starting from the arrow on the glazing bead, lay a cloth soaked in hot water. Thus, the staple is warmed up. After 5-10 minutes warming up with a knife with a wide semicircular blade, they begin to separate the staple from the shell and bottom of the guitar. To facilitate this operation, the knife is periodically immersed in hot water. After removing the staple with the same knife, they begin to separate the bottom from the bends.
Special care should be taken when separating the bottom in the area of the springs. The ends of the springs, glued into the bends, are carefully removed using a narrow chisel. The tool is constantly immersed in hot water. Chipped pieces of the bottom or bends should be glued into place immediately.
Taking advantage of the opening of the tool, the master will not miss the opportunity to correct the imperfections of the previous external repair. If it is not necessary to open the case, then only external repairs are made.
Cracks, chips, chipped areas, etc., are eliminated in the same way as for the previously considered tools. The same can be said for changing the fret plates, nut, restoring the lacquer and polishing. The main repair work of guitars, with which the master has to meet, are as follows.
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Video (click to play). |
fig. 1
A hole in the bottom and side of the guitar. With such a defect, guaranteed repair can only be obtained with the installation of the lining (Fig. 1, a). A lining is made of a plate 2.5-3 mm thick, covering the hole by 5-10 mm. The layers of the lining 3 are positioned across the layers of the bottom 5 of the tool. The edges of the hole are freed from small splinters and applied from the inside to the contour of the hole and to the edges of the lining with thin skin glue. The lining is pressed against the bottom with the help of two threads 2 from the inside.
Pieces of the bottom selected from the hole are glued onto the dried lining (Fig. 1, b). If the pieces of the bottom are lost or cannot be restored, then the hole is preliminarily given the correct geometric shape (rectangle, square, etc.) with edges beveled outward, and a patch is inserted (Fig. 1, b). The clamp is carried out with a cord through the gaskets.
If the size of the hole is small, then it is possible to use small patches instead of lining.
fig. 2
Holes in the shell are also repaired with patches or lining. A fine-toothed saw cut out the damaged section of the shell, after opening the tool. The bends are cut out 10–20 mm more than the patch (Fig. 2). Glue patches 4 and, adjusting patch 3, glue it too. Then the bends 1 are restored and the bottom of the guitar is glued. This repair is difficult, and it is carried out on rare occasions.
Repair of damaged guitar soundboards. Mechanical damage to the decks in the form of cracks and even small holes are repaired in the same way as similar damage to the bottom of the instrument. It should only be borne in mind that in the repair of the soundboard, the utmost accuracy and deliberation is required. If the mechanical damage in the deck is large, then it is changed. Removing the damaged deck is performed in the same way as removing the bottom of the instrument. A serious complication is the part of the fretboard that is glued to the back of a guitar with a fixed neck. In this case, you can go in two ways. The lining is removed when the frets and the surface of the lining itself are heavily worn, especially if the lining material is of no value.To do this, the frets are removed from the grooves with pliers and the overlay is cut off. If the surface of the onlay is in good condition, you can try to maintain it. Without removing the frets from the grooves, use a wide thin knife with a semicircular blade to separate the fretboard from the neck handle. The knife is periodically dipped in hot water. It is sometimes useful to warm up the pad with a cloth moistened with hot water before this operation.
Another way of repair is to remove the fret from the fretboard, which lies in the plane of the neck-to-body connection. For guitars, this is usually the 12th fret. With a fine-toothed saw, the freed groove is deepened by the thickness of the lining. The deck can then be easily detached from the body. The part of the overlay glued to the deck is freed from it and, after gluing the new deck, put in its place. When installing the 12th fret in the extended groove, use a glue putty.
With prolonged use of the instrument, the deck often warps. The soundboard is swollen in the talin area of the guitar. Although this defect has little effect on the playing qualities of the guitar, it spoils the appearance and can lead to serious damage to the body over time.
A warped deck is repaired without opening the case. Planks 2.5-3 mm thick made of resonant spruce (trimmings from blanks of decks are suitable) are glued from the inside of the body in the warping zone. The plank and deck layers must match in direction. The boards with the applied glue are placed in their place through the sound hole, through which they are also pressed with clamps to the deck (using spacers).
The springs may be repaired or replaced only after opening the tool. Usually, the general layout of the springs during their repair is not changed, and the spring being repaired is removed and a new one is put in its place. At the same time, the geometric dimensions of the removed spring are preserved.
Minor repairs to the soundboard defects (chipped or falling out decorations, tearing off the stand, etc.) are not difficult and can be performed without additional instructions.
Neck repair. With intensive use of the guitar, nickel silver frets will wear out in less than 2 years. Changing the frets begins by removing the old ones. Using nippers, trying not to damage the linings, remove the frets from their nests. New frets are hammered. If the slots from the old frets are small, they are widened, and if they are large, then they use a glue putty. Next, the frets are processed as usual.
The fretboard change, as well as the fretting correction, also begins by removing the frets and nut. Then the lining is cut off or separated from the handle using a heated knife and hot water. Put on a new overlay and set the frets.
Heel or part separation from the neck handle is most often found on guitars with a screw neck-to-body connection. Repair the injury by usually gluing the severed heel into place. Repair with replacement of a part of the heel is more reliable.
Use a chisel to cut off the heel above the screw hole (if the guitar is a shovel type). Stick a block instead of the severed part and process it in the shape of the heel.
I will make a reservation right away, this was my first experiment in this kind of business, so if you have experience and / or your own vision of the process, I ask you to state in the comments as constructively as possible, without going over to the person and the project manager. And yes, if you want to write something in the style of “throw the fuck out, buy a normal one,” I ask you to immediately shove this opinion to hell and flip through the tape as if nothing had happened.
Actually, the story:
I'll go in a little from afar. or rather, from 2015, when an old Soviet classical guitar fell into my hands in a “slightly disassembled” state (photo below)
Actually, I had a desire to learn how to play it. But first it was necessary to bring the instrument into a more or less adequate form, which I did (in fact, I just glued it together with epoxy and changed the strings)
Time passed, I periodically played on this miracle from the past.However, nothing lasts forever under the moon, including musical instruments - a crack appeared on the neck and began to creep apart, threatening to split it into two independent parts. In principle, such repairs are not particularly difficult and costly. I filled it in with glue, pressed it with a clamp - and you're done. But the thought settled in my head: “And what. if we go further? " If you get confused and carry out a complete restoration of the instrument with blackjack and applying a new varnish.
I will not tell you how I studied the forums on this topic, but I will go straight to the process.
So first under the knife the neck was started for grinding - it was unscrewed from the body, relieved of frets, pegs and other details that would interfere with the process. The result of the work can be seen in the photo below:
Next, I proceeded to sanding the case. This part of the work was remembered most of all, since the process is very long and tedious. It was also necessary to take care not to wipe the pits in the decks. The result was such a beautiful case without traces of varnish and without a single burr:
The stand also underwent the same operations, but it had to be tinkered with due to its complex shape (unfortunately, there is no photo)
All surfaces are prepared, it would seem, you can varnish, put together and reuse the guitar for its intended purpose, but there was a little difficulty.
The fact is that in the process of sanding the front deck, the pattern framing the hole was removed from it along with the varnish. This gave rise to two problems: firstly, the paint on the wood was lighter in place, and this, upon closer inspection, was very striking. Secondly, the guitar stopped pleasing to the eye, it began to seem somehow dull and “empty”. Naturally, the neck and stand of the same color did not add joy to the picture.
With the last two elements, everything was solved as simply as possible. a jar of stain. and we have this beauty:
As you can see, I still sanded the stand badly, and in the places where the varnish remained, it did not get worn out. I had to redo it, sanding off the stain this time.
With the corps, the situation was more complicated. I did not want to buy a ready-made outlet, there was no possibility to paint either due to the natural curvature and lack of experience in this. The option of burning out remained. However, not manually (for the above reason), but using a laser.
A vector file was put together, a machine tool and people ready to help were found.
Actually, in the end, the following came out:
When all the details were brought into a beautiful form, it was time to apply the varnish. Following the advice from the forums, I used NTs-216. It smells awful, but the result was worth it. the guitar acquired its native yellowish tint and began to look much better:
I applied 3 layers of varnish with an hour break. Then he let it dry for a day and started assembling.
First, I screwed on the neck. To do this, I decided to use an M8 bolt for a hexagon and just such a furniture nut so as not to climb into the bowels of the guitar with each manipulation of the fasteners
Well, there are little things left. He hammered in new frets, stuck in the tuning pegs, screwed on the stand and pulled on the strings. In the end, it turned out something like this:
Oh yes! A sticker! Where without a sticker)
Repairing guitars is almost a separate part of the guitar skill, which you can start to master by repairing old Soviet guitars. This knowledge will greatly help both in the repair and in the manufacture of guitars.
“Uncle Imyarek told me that he was repairing and this was a disastrous undertaking. Since he did everything right, as it was, but it sounded all the same in any way. And on these Internet it has been written. "
The expediency of starting and the amount of work on the restoration of the Soviet guitar is also determined by the condition of a particular sample. Almost everything can be brought back to life, but the question arises whether it is worth it. We need to figure out what a too badly broken instrument means.
When repairing Soviet guitars, you can perform a different amount of work, both to do only the most necessary, and everything possible.As we discussed in previous articles, when choosing a path, you need to consider your capabilities, the state of the guitar and the determination to see it through to the end.
We begin work on the Soviet guitar. We free the body for further work.
With the optimal and maximum repair option, it is necessary to glue the speaker system, re-glue all the rips, often thin the soundboard. This is to get the most out of the soundboard. To do this, you need to open the guitar body. Those who make minimal repairs only need to fix obvious defects in the guitar body and disassembly is not needed.
The body of our factory Soviet guitar has been disassembled. In front of you is a separate deck and body. Glued all the dude-bloopers. There may be some cracks on the deck. We begin to bring it all to life.
Working with a half-body guitar. It is made of bad plywood. Counter-slug very poorly maintained. Often everything inside is like after a tornado.
Everything is cleaned and all the filling is glued. Now you need to glue the deck or bottom back to the body. If you made a new deck, then there are no special problems, but if you made repairs and opened the guitar, then there is a nuance when assembling it.
Sometimes the edging of a guitar is badly damaged and needs to be repaired or replaced.
Let's list the possible disadvantages of the Soviet factory necks. We will create this list gradually. Many defects are common to any neck. In a series of articles about the alteration of the Soviet neck with the insertion of an anchor, the usual factory neck was used, using it as an example, we will consider what the disadvantages may be.
The necks of Soviet guitars are so poorly made that they do not allow playing even on the existing body. Crooked frets, excessive curvature, incorrect setting.
In this article, we will consider the maximum option for repairing or rather altering the neck of a Soviet guitar. Illustrations from the theme of our forum member Eugene from Simferopol, who made this repair first on the forum.
Let's place the neck of the guitar in its place. Let's discuss how to mount the neck to the screw.
Processing the guitar heel for subsequent insertion.
Everything in this world is not eternal, everything breaks down and falls into disrepair. This also applies to the guitar, which, by the way, is a rather fragile instrument that requires proper and careful care. But if suddenly the guitar is still a little damaged what to do?
The easiest way out is to contact a guitar master. This is such an uncle (very auntie) who makes these guitars to order and will be able to fix yours with maximum speed and quality. The problem is that the masters take money for their work, moreover, the money should be recognized as not small.
If the guitar is badly damaged (the neck is cracked, the spring inside the soundboard has fallen off), then it would still be wiser to pay money to a professional. But if the damage is not great then guitar repair it is quite possible to carry out at home using your own hands and simple tools:
Cause:
The strings are too close to the nut
Solution:
Strings get along because the strings touch the metal frets when they are tugged, resulting in such an unpleasant rattling sound. There are several options for elimination.
If your guitar has a truss rod, then you just need to adjust it to the height you want, that is, to the height where the strings sound normal, without rattling. But the truss rod is not in all guitars, so the old grandfather's file comes to our aid, or better the skin of one. If you use a skin, then it is better to come to a flat bar and grind it as if you were working with a plane.
Our goal is to file the frets a little to increase the distance to the strings. This should be done carefully and evenly, while I would advise not to touch the first 2-3 frets at all, but to grind off the others. Sharpen gently and slowly. If suddenly it turned out that one fret was sharpened very strongly - no need to compare everything for it. Better to have one fret lower than you ruin everything.
Solution:
And here, with the presence of an anchor rod, the problem is solved in a couple of minutes. But if it does not exist, the situation becomes more complicated, since we can grind off the frets, but we can not increase it.
There is only one way out - to make the cuts in the nut deeper. This is done using a thin - thin file. And again, you should act very carefully and slowly so that the strings do not sink too low.
If you have gone too far, then you can build up the nut back by dropping a little melted plastic into the slot under the strings, or by thrusting a little hard leather into the slot.
Cause:
Most likely one of the springs inside the case has come off.
Solution:
It is better to consult a specialist, but you can also glue it in place yourself using Moment glue. The difficulty is that you have to act blindly and with one hand. Even if you managed to pour glue where you need it, it is not a fact that you can attach this small board where you need it. However, the task is quite feasible, in front of my eyes, the fallen off spring was blindly glued into place and it held on for many long years.
Solution:
Again, it is better to contact the master. But if the crack is not deep and not long, then richly fill it with epoxy and press it with a clamp. 24 hours in a dry warm place and the problem should be eliminated.
In general, friends, if your guitar is expensive, run to the master, do not engage in amateur performances. If the cost of the guitar
what to do if the gears of a classical guitar are broken, how can they be repaired or replaced?
buy new mechanics for classical guitar and replace the old one
If the gears are tuners (tuning pegs), then they change simply. We take a screwdriver and twist, remembering to remove the strings from them. (On the classics, there are usually pegs of 3 pieces per ponel). If the legs at the gearwheel are bent on one side, and the string tension falls off at a certain level of tension (the gear does not hold much tension), you can remove the gear and turn it over with its whole legs, looking with a glance.
If you mean other gears? O_o then clarify
How do I fix my electric guitar?
Which keys to adjust the truss on Maria's bass guitar? It is clear that the original keys may no longer be found, but maybe there is some kind of replacement?
It seems that with the popularization of electronic music, the guitar faded into the background. But practice shows that this tool continues to evolve. The guitar is played today by true connoisseurs of rock, instrumental and other musical styles. Often, guitarists are faced with the need to repair their favorite instruments.
Professional services are expensive. Self-repair allows you to save money. Many breakdowns can be eliminated without resorting to the help of service center masters. Experienced musicians will tell you how to fix a guitar with your own hands. Use their advice and restore your favorite instrument.
The type of repair work required depends directly on the type of breakdown of the tool.
You can glue the cracked cage yourself. Use a special epoxy adhesive for this. It will provide a strong bond. When carrying out repair work, it is important to insert the adhesive as deep as possible into the crack. To do this, dilute the latter to the maximum, fill with epoxy, release, remove excess glue, squeeze the glued damage tightly with clamps, let dry. Then remove the clamps.
Next, you need to check the tuning of the guitar. If extraneous sounds appear during the game, grind the inside of the heel of the neck. Leaked glue residues may have a sound effect. Grinding allows them to be removed.
In this case, it is recommended to start the repair by checking all the strings with their own unison ones, harmonics at the XII fret. The check is ideally carried out several times. It allows you to eliminate the string malfunction factor. If the problem is not with the strings, then look for it in the structural elements of the guitar.
Examine the instrument neck.If the nut cut is parallel to the neck, roll it over to the tuning pegs. Guitar still not building? Try to re-glue the snare.
If this element of the instrument comes off, rises when playing, it is necessary to re-glue it. To do this, the snare is removed from the guitar, cleaned of old glue. A new composition is applied to the plane. The classic version of gluing is epoxy. But it does affect the sound. A special glue for wood is ideal for repairing a snare. The glued one is clamped into the supporting struts. They must fix the snare in at least 3 places. After the glue dries, the spacers are removed, the guitar is checked for sound and adjusted.
We begin to repair the dead acoustic-classical guitar with improvised means.
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Electric guitarperhaps the most distressing instrument - it seems to have been created especially for expressive and aggressive playing. And where emotions run over the edge, there is always room for trouble - belts break, guitars fall, strings break, varnish cracks, neck deforms. Repair, in short, is inevitable sooner or later. (In addition, over time, guitarists have to change frets, re-solder electronics, shield tone bays, and so on.)
Note that not every guitar can be saved - some damage is incompatible with life. In this case, it is better to buy a new electric guitar. In the Muzline online store - hundreds modern electric guitars for every taste and wallet, from well-known brands and young companies. If the goal is to revive the instrument, it is important to know some of the features of home repair.
Not everything can be done at home. However, even a non-specialist can cope with such types of work:
- shielding of internal cavities for electronics;
- grinding of frets;
- inserting fret marks;
- fret scalping;
- adjusting the springs of the tremolo machine and floyd rose;
- replacement of tuning pegs;
- replacement of pickups;
- replacement of the cover on the body.
More serious procedures, such as anchor adjustment, complete replacement of electronics, body restoration, etc. Such work requires special knowledge, skills and conditions for correct execution and high-quality results.
Careful operation, proper storage and timely maintenance of the instrument are a guarantee that it will not need repairs for several years, or even decades.
- It is necessary to store the electric guitar in a case or case in a room with stable humidity and air temperature.
- On stage and in the studio, it is worth using guitar stands - instruments are guaranteed not to fall from them.
- Stretchers are much more reliable than traditional belt buttons, which, if broken, often damage the tool. Better to use them.
- Electric guitar body and neck should be thoroughly cleaned every few weeks and treated with polishes and conditioners that protect the varnish from environmental influences.
- Guitar should not be transported in the cargo hold of public transport, unless the musician has a sturdy solid-state case with secure locks and internal tool holders at his disposal.
This section is dedicated to adjusting and repairing a guitar, no services guitar master, that is, at home.
Adjusts the height of the strings above the guitar neck.
Before doing guitar repair, familiarize yourself with Guitar Device, Guitar Master.
Measure the distance between the 12th fret nut (a metal strip cut into the neck after the 12th fret) and the 6th string.
For metal strings, this distance should be 3 to 4 mm. Nylon strings are 4 - 4.5 mm.
If the distance is greater, it will be difficult to press the strings against the neck of the guitar. If less, then the strings will touch the frets and rattle. In general, the shorter the distance, the better.
Guitar Repair & Guitar Master
Guitar repair not required unless, on a six-string guitar, the neck of a guitar, or any other acoustic guitar, is adjusted with a screw that attaches the neck to the body. Turn the screw with a guitar wrench (usually a square) until you reach the desired string height. It is better to reduce the distance until the strings start touching the saddles and then slightly increase it so that the chatter disappears.
It is not difficult and unnecessary to be a guitar master to adjust the pitch of the strings above the neck of a guitar.
If the neck is glued into the body, then the saddle must be sharpened to change the distance between the strings and the neck. It is installed in a stand and is made of soft material. If this does not help, you will have to contact your guitar master.
If the heel comes off guitar fretboard from the body (for acoustic guitars with glued-in neck), then in this case it is better to hand over the musical instrument to the guitar master. But (for desperate people) you can bolt the neck to the body of your acoustic guitar.
To do this, you need to drill a hole in the heels of the neck and body and secure this structure with a bolt. On the inside of the body, place a washer on the gutter (neck plate), the more the better.
If the stand begins to peel off, then you need to remove it completely and clean the base to a flat surface (since the stand is most likely deformed). Then glue it in exactly the same place and (if you don't mind the guitar) fix the stand with bolts or screws.
With a tight stroke of the tuning pegs, you need to lubricate the mechanism. A couple of drops of liquid machine oil will help.
Thread the string into the stand and secure it. At the end of the strings there are special thickened tips that hold the strings.
If not, then secure the strings as follows.Thread the string into the stand, pull the end of the string from the bottom and thread it through the resulting loop, as shown in the figure.
For the first three thin strings, you can thread the tip through the same loop twice as shown.
After you have secured one end of the string in the stand, attach the other end to the tuning pegs, but do not confuse the tuning pegs, remember that there is a specific tuning peg for each string.
Begin to rotate the peg so as to wind two or three turns of the string, this is necessary so that the strings are not out of tune.
Before tensioning the strings, do the following to make the string stretch immediately: Pull each string with your hand from the headstock of the guitar to the stand.
Of all the strings, the fourth breaks the fastest. To prolong its life, rearrange and flip the string once a month so that it does not fray.
For all acoustic guitars, the string change is similar, but the process of tuning the guitar to the guitar tuning is different, for example, the seven-string guitar has a different tuning from the standard one.
To extend the life of a 12-string guitar, you can resort to a little trick, it is written about it in the article How to tune a 12-string guitar.
These are all the basic techniques for home repairing types of acoustic guitars. In case of more serious problems (the neck of the guitar or the soundboard moved, cracks appeared, and so on), it is better to contact a guitar master, otherwise, you can spoil the instrument completely, and no repair of guitars will help anymore. And you need to remember about passive protective measures, such as a guitar case or a guitar strap.
From that moment, let's say, resuscitation began. The situation is critical, to say the least. Therefore, you need to use everything that is possible, and even that which would seem not from this "opera". This is how “it” looked initially - a huge, heavy “stand” for strings - in the form of a brick, a deck made of plywood, the bottom and sides are also plywood and thin, only the “neck” looks like it is made of wood .... if I'm not mistaken this is a birch ... The headstock design was unceremoniously stolen from the Ovation, it was apparently difficult to come up with its own shape ... The tuning mechanism is a complete marriage! This cannot be used at all. Nowhere ... Naturally - "into the stove" is ... Let's replace it with "Grover". The fret pad did not give in in the usual way - by heating and a heated thin knife ... However, it easily flew off when prying it off with a chisel. It turned out that it was glued with epoxy, which is simply unacceptable. Epoxy is not used at all in the guitar (or any other musical instrument), for obvious and natural reasons. At least this is bad manners!
We open the deck.
Carefully remove the white plastic edging and separate the “deck” from the body. It is difficult to describe what appeared on the display in normal human words, so let's designate it as… .. ……… (unprintable expression). The “equipped soundboard” had a weight of about 760 g ... .. (the entire equipped body of my guitar, without a neck, weighs within 620 - 680 g) chips, in considerable quantities. Apparently, in this case, everything that was possible was deliberately done to exclude any sound and even a hint of it (monsieur knows a lot about perversions) ... Although, in fact, all the masters strive on the contrary - to do everything possible to make the sound sound. Yet the guitar is prized for that. The guitar is appreciated and loved for its sound.
The manufacturer forgot (or did not know) to glue the footer over the anchor, so the anchor did not work, and, accordingly, it was an unnecessary and rather heavy part. The channel for the anchor is straight there, which also will not allow the anchor rod to work to its fullest. But such "trifles" were apparently missed there too ... Well, okay, we'll fix it. We make a footer, glue it in, after everything is dry, we cut it off and process it to the level of the plane of the neck -
The shell on the bass side is not solid, as is usually the case with normal and not even very normal guitars, but consists of two parts ... which is simply immoral in relation to the guitar ... Therefore, we glue the necessary stick-lining at the junction, and reinforce both shells in in general, by gluing vertical springs, then add "mass" to the shells, in the required amount, which is necessary in this case. The “bottom” also had to be strengthened longitudinally, since we need a tougher and more stable bottom for work -
Regarding the knots of the upper and lower dumplings, I will modestly keep silent, since everything is clear and clear anyway ... I will not talk about the upper and lower sills made of plastic, which is a little harder than plasticine. I will just say that because of this, this "guitar" did not play in frets. But the fact that the main upper spring was missing in the small oval is not just a gross unacceptable mistake, it already speaks of something more ... Naturally, a new spring was made, of the required thickness and height, taking into account access for adjusting the anchor. In this case, it was necessary to glue first to the shells, and then the deck was glued to it -
Then everything is simple - we add the missing fragments to the counter-flares (kerf). It was also necessary to add four springs (in the photo they are located crosswise) to the bottom of the "large oval" and bring them to the desired denominator with the "mass" of the shells. In this case, you need to cling to everything, just to correct at least a little the interaction of the three components - the deck, the bottom and the sides. Then we vacuum everything and cover it with shellac from the inside. This will at least protect the plywood case from the effects of moisture, and, accordingly, the plywood will not flake off and warp for a sufficient time -
Making a new deck.
How do I make a new guitar deck? It is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, you just need to arm yourself with everything you need. In this case, we will make a deck from Red Canadian Cedar (which, in fact, is not a true cedar), with a simple cut-in rosette made of Maya wood. This is a very beautiful tree, in daylight it shimmers and shimmers no worse than mother-of-pearl. For the future deck, we take two blanks of the "book cut", glue them, having previously precisely bend them, after the glue seam is completely dry (I usually give it 24 hours), draw a profile according to the template and cut it out. Then, having calculated the desired location of the resonator hole, we begin the process of inserting the socket. When it remains to cut the resonator hole, it will not hurt to bring the inner side of the soundboard to the desired thickness, but with a small margin, this will later make it easier to "maneuver" in terms of the required thicknesses. .The photo shows everything -
Since this "guitar" was with steel strings, it will be in "steel" even after the repair, its owner prefers to play on steel strings. Many of the landmarks here are not particularly selectable, so we will "sharpen" under OM. But we will not do the spring system as is standard, for example, in factory Dreadnought style guitars, but a little differently. After everything is done, adjusted and all the springs are glued, you can prepare the deck for gluing. We check everything several times, measure and then glue it to the body-
The glue must be allowed to dry completely, then, if necessary, it can be slightly "smoothed" with cycles and then the channel for the edging can be milled, in this case the edging is white, plastic. It needs to be glued with a special glue that is suitable for this. You can press with adhesive paper tape - this edging is quite pliable -
After everything is done and dry, we correct the slightly glued edging, and at the same time remove the old varnish, but in this case, be careful not to damage the thin veneer that is glued here over the body in the form of a lining.
Making a new fretboard.
During the renovation process, a new fretboard was also prepared. For this, high-grade Indian Rosewood was used.The workpiece was sawn to the desired size, brought to the required thickness, cuts were made for fret sills, the sills themselves were installed, and then work with markers (the number and location of markers - the customer's request) -
Making a string stand.
A string stand is a very important part of a guitar. Archival. It must meet many requirements, but at the same time be very light. I talked about this in more detail in the publication - “Guitar stand for strings (bridge). Wood for a stand ". The blank is taken from the same solid Indian Rosewood as the fretboard. First, processing was carried out "to rough", then the corrections were made for the desired weight. Finished stand covered with Danish Black Walnut oil…. After the oil has dried, it can be glued -
Glued string stand and fretboard, all under oil, you're done. There is very little work left -
Finishing the guitar.
The finish is made with tung oil, for this you only need to properly prepare the wooden surface. How to use oil and how to prepare the surface of a tree for its application can be found in my publications in the section "Guitar Engineering".
Final work.
These are minor works, but they require accurate calculations and measurements, both at the stage of marking the location of the strings on the sills, and the places of drilling holes for the pins on the stand. In order for the pins to sit tightly and securely, you need a tool called "Sweep". This allows the pins to fit very precisely into the tapered bore. Once everything is complete, you can stretch the strings. “Elixir” in this case will be in place ... These strings add not only good tonal qualities, but are also designed for a longer service life, they last 3 - 5 times longer than ordinary strings.
What came of it? The result is a new, completely different instrument. Now this is a GUITAR ... with all that it implies ... And this guitar will now give odds even to very expensive factory guitars, and in some cases not only to factory guitars ... Without exaggeration. Guitarists tested, from among those who have an ear and can play. In conclusion, a few photos of the finished tool -
If any of the readers are interested in changing their guitar for the better, then perhaps this publication will be useful in some way.
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