Golf 3 box automatic do-it-yourself repair

In detail: golf 3 box automatic do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The site provides information on automatic transmissions
Automatic transmission schemes, variators. The principles of the units.
Repair, disassembly and assembly of automatic transmission.

Image - Golf 3 box automatic repair do it yourself

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I offer new and used spare parts for automatic transmission, mail: pp14 on Yandex.
I will buy faulty automatic transmissions and variators.

Hello, Automatic transmission is covered, here

a similar case.
Broken axis bevel. satellites. differential and broke the block ((
while the repair costs 7700, the parts were ordered in the eksist, this is without oil.
since the shavings and parts of the block got into the shift actuators, you will have to disassemble the entire automatic transmission for cleaning.
I think to cook the block with argon, since it is simply not realistic to find a block.
in Moscow they requested 3000r for repairs Disassembly and troubleshooting of automatic transmission + 9000r for work + parts, approximately 30,000r will be released
proceeding from this, I took up the repair myself.

year - 1995
automatic transmission model - CKX 17105 (Without probe)
marking on the automatic transmission unit - 01M 921 105 E
Volume - 1.8
Gears - 4

Video (click to play).

If anyone has information on how she understands, what to look for, what pullers should be posted.
write, I will be grateful.

I will not change the bearings, and in general it is in vain that I disassembled the whole box today, when I already crawled up to the shaft that goes to the differential, I saw that there was an oil seal, which means that the debris from the gearbox simply could not get into the box. And the box itself inside is like new , there was a little mucus on the pan lid, I did not find chips on the magnet.
the cover where the shift forks are located was planted on something white, it looks like a sealant.
What should I put her on? also on the sealant, or just a gasket will be enough.
and I also noticed when I unscrewed the pump bolts, they were in black silicone.
why is he there?
when I removed the box, the converter remained on the motor, should it be removed and installed with the box?

He turned the box unsuccessfully and crushed the sensor, 2-pin, connected with a long corrugation, near the lid.
in existential could not find it, tell me the code of this sensor.
Post has been editeddiks13: 11 July 2013 - 00:08

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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Valve body solenoid loop of automatic transmission 096 how to check, ring and replace with wires Golf 3, as well as many models VW, Skoda, Seat, as well as Audi 80/90/100, Audi (A3 1997-2006)

Automatic transmissions may have problems such as a break in the solenoids or the main valve, or a temperature sensor that is built into the loop.

You can determine the problem in the valves or the sensor by ringing the contacts of the solenoids and the temperature sensor from the round connector of the automatic transmission according to the following scheme:

We remove the cable going from the brain to the box (a round connector with 10 contacts located along the radius and one in the center with numbers on them). We call "mother" connector coming from the box machine.

So, by contact numbers:

solenoid No. 1 contacts 1, 3 resistance of the order of 55-65 Ohm
solenoid No. 2 contacts 1, 4 resistance of the order of 55-65 Ohm
solenoid No. 3 contacts 1, 5 resistance of the order of 55-65 Ohm
solenoid No. 4 contacts 1, 6 resistance of the order of 55-65 Ohm
solenoid No. 5 contacts 1, 7 resistance of the order of 55-65 Ohm
solenoid No. 6 contacts 2, 8 resistance of the order of 55-65 Ohm
solenoid No. 7 contacts 1, 10 resistance of the order of 55-65 Ohm
contacts 1.12 - thermal sensor, about 200 kOhm at 23 degrees Celsius.

If your measurements showed either the absence or too much resistance, then proceed to remove the pallet and dial the loop and solenoids directly on the automatic transmission hydraulic plate, as described below:

The first thing to do is to remove the protection of the automatic transmission pan. There is no plug for draining oil from the automatic transmission pan. Removing the sump oil will flow from you - it is better to use a bowl, as the oil will merge somewhere around 3.5 liters.

Having removed the sump (4 bolts in total) and completely draining the oil, you will see a duralumin plate studded with pins and plugs on the sides, an oil filter, a wide flat train going to the solenoids.

Remove the filter and wait until the remaining oil is drained.

The solenoid cable runs along the perimeter of the automatic transmission valve body and has 7 connectors that are attached to the solenoids.
Remove the cable by unfastening the connectors from all solenoids and ringing (measure the resistance on each solenoid). Solenoid contact numbers are shown below in the figure:

Ideally, there should be resistance as indicated above in the description.

If everything is fine with the solenoids, then proceed to check the loop:
Remove the cable and pull it out through the hole in the automatic transmission.
Take the tester (Multimeter, Tseshka) and in the dialing mode (Or putting on resistance), start ringing the contacts from the solenoids to the chips (Round connector, as shown in the figure above).
You can find a fracture in the train or several.
The cost of the cable is huge $ 180, so it can be replaced with wires soldered by yourself. It is practically impossible to restore a faulty loop, and buying a new one is expensive - so we will replace the loop with wires. If your hands don't grow out of your ass and you know how to work with a soldering iron, then everything will turn out quickly! The recovery principle is below:

Solder the wires of the MGTF brand to the legs of the new connector you bought (Throw out the old - there the contact is also lost over time) (throw out the round old automatic transmission connector). Buy a connector at least 10 pin legs to solder each wire to the leg that goes from the solenoid contact, BUT CAREFULLY TRACK THE WIRES WHICH GO FROM THE BRAINS OF THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TO THE BOX - THE TASK OF RESOLDING TO MATCH THE WIRES AND LEGS OF THE NEW CONNECTOR. Insert "mom" into the solenoid (you can buy it in any quantity and for inexpensive at the auto market or auto parts store). You can pick up the required size in the store and put it on the solenoid legs. Everything fits and holds securely. On your old film loop, find the thermal resistance by the contact numbers (it is located at the end of the loop - right on it between the 7th and 6th solenoid, which is indicated in the diagram above) and solder it to the wires, just like the solenoids and fix all the wires in the bundle and solenoids and thermal resistance.

When you solder everything, fasten the wires from the solenoids to the new connector into a bundle - bring it up, sealing the channel hermetically, ring your new connector again, put a new filter, fix the pan and install the protector, fill in new oil.

If your solenoids are out of order, then unscrew the plates holding the solenoids and pull them out together with the valves, springs, change the valves or solenoids, or springs and install them in the hydraulic plate as shown in the figures below:

At the expense of the solenoids. Which solenoid is responsible for the speed, and which for the pressure on the automatic transmission 096 for golf 3, etc. clearly in the figure below

This legendary 4-speed automatic transmission 01M own production Audi-Volkswagen (predecessors - 095/096) has been produced for 17 years, from 1995 to the present day, for all popular front-wheel drive vehicles VW, Seat and Scoda ( and even Audi A3) with engine from 1.6 l to 2.0 l located across.

And if we assume that the family of these automatic transmissions also includes closely related predecessors: automatic transmissions 095, 096, 097, 098, which differed in the forced blocking of the torque converter in 01 * instead of the damper in 096, pallet gasket, body and differences in the pistons (see diagram “Differences 01N and 095-098” left), then this legendary box has been on sale since 1991 - for over 20 years!

Of these, the most popular for repair is the box. Volkswagen golf - automatic transmission 096... Which was assembled at some Volkswagen factories until 2009. A 01M installed on the Tradewinds (China) until now. By the way, at the German factories on the Tradewinds, the 01N automatic machine worked with different engines.

A less common modification is 01P (her predecessor - 098), capable of transmitting higher torque, was aggregated with engines up to 2.8l VW Sharan, VW T2 / T4, VW Eurovan, Ford Galaxy - (minibuses and minivans). Constructive relative and many consumables are interchangeable.

Modification 097 for "unkillable" Audi 80 - Audi 100 and served until 1995, when it was replaced by the same "unkillable" 01N.

Designed for A4, A6, Cabrio Audi modification of automatic transmission AG4 - 01N Audi can transmit torque from 2.8 liter engines. They differ from each other in housings and differentials. Most of the other parts of the entire family are interchangeable.

This family of automatic transmissions was the latest masterpiece of the Volkswagen-Audi group to try to compete in the automatic transmission market. The 5-speed ZF 5HP19, released in the same 95th year, turned out to be so much more sophisticated and competitive in price that VAG soon decided to close its own development of traditional automatic machines, later moving to the Japanese Aisin Warner and German ZF Group ... Just like the American NASA uses Russian rockets to send its astronauts into orbit.

And since the late 1990s, VAG has redirected all the forces of its designers to the production of its own variators ( 01J -CVT ), and after a relative failure with the variator 01J - on the preselective boxes, which were considered much more promising DSG .

Repair features

One of the features of the universal transmission 01M - the fact that for a perverse location (in contrast to its brother 01N) a differential with a separate lubrication system was introduced (the oil for it is checked and replaced separately).

For many years these automatic transmissions (together with a relative of 01N Audi) have been the most repaired in Russia among all Audi-Volkswagen automatic transmissions. By popularity they are in the 4 leaders of the world, together with the French DPO, Japanese U140-241 and # 1- ZF 5HP19.

A little behind is their eternal competitor - Mercedes, whose family is automatic 722.3 – 722.5 as tenacious as it is often repaired. In the last year, 6-speed brothers - the German 6HP26, the Japanese U660, and the American-Korean 6T40 - have increasingly broken through into the group of repair leaders.

Filter for all automatic transmissions after 1994 01M-N-P - 105010A.

- The filter with a felt membrane is the same for all 01 * and differs from the predecessor filter: 096-. -098 (- # 105010) on right.

Typical repair places for "age" automatic transmissions:

Craftsmen prefer to order Repair Kit for gaskets and seals (Overol Kit) for 01M from ATOK (105002 -AT), the quality of the compression rings is close to the original ( on right ). Less often, they order the Repair Kits for Prescription and Transtek.

For overhaul 01P - more often they order Overol Kit from Prescription - 105002A.

Also, often together with Overols, they order and change sets of pistons from 5 pieces - for 095-098. The set of pistons for 01MPN is different - 7 pcs. 105008A.

Rubber piston kit 01M

Rubber becomes dubious and does not hold pressure well, especially in winter. On older cars and overheated automatic transmissions, the entire set of rubberized pistons is replaced - No. 105008A.

This is a mandatory order for cars over 8-10 years old. Craftsmen are two to three times more likely to order non-original pistons than the original.

Temperatures or lateral pressure melts or becomes brittle the green factory washer of the front drum - a plastic sleeve bearing - 105229. Pieces are scattered with oil throughout the machine and damage the gaskets. It is checked by the presence of fragments in the pallet. The reason is old age and overheating, which accelerates old age. Axial play of the input shaft 0.3-0.4 mm. Adjusted by these plastic washers.

Usually a complete set of washers is ordered - 105200.

- Overrunning clutch cage 105654A, chipping away.

The reason is prolonged overheating and aging of the plastic.

Typically, plastic has a lifespan of at least 8-10 years, but at elevated temperatures it can fall apart much earlier.

Drum 3-4 (105550) fails due to pushing the basket along the axis of the shaft (in the photo on the right - blue arrow - norm, red - pressed).

One millimeter of reducing the clearance to the clearance is enough and the clutches of the 3-4 package slip, which leads to the combustion of the entire clutch package. (click on the picture on the right to enlarge)

Package 3-4, No. 105100 (friction clutch), No. 105120 (steel), No. 105140; (support) No. 105141 burns out. The reason is the lack of oil pressure in the line.

01M steel rims are thinner (1.45mm) than pre-95 (2mm). Also supporting. The problem can be caused both by the above-described cause of the drum basket being pushed through, or by a lack of oil pressure.

Forward 105108 packet burns out; 105128; 105148 and the Reverse package with a simultaneous breakage of the return springs of the Reverse 105976K -AF piston. A common reason: an attempt to "swing" out of a rut on a bad road.

Solenoids for 01M

Significant family changes took place in 1995 for the 01 series. When linear solenoids were introduced into the valve body. Electrical in German is simple, reliable, unpretentious and maintainable. The hydraulic plates have been modified several times.

In the latest valve body modifications, where instead of the gas turbine damper (095-098) there is a blocking of the clutch (01M-N-P) of these solenoids - 2 pcs ( on right ). The most stressed PWM solenoids are the first to fail. EPC and TCC (LockUp).

095927333 - Solenoid-electric linear pressure regulator EPC - EV6 No. 105431 (aka - and torque converter blocking - TCC, EV4 - torque converter). The latest EV4 usually wears out faster due to dirt entering the oil from the bagel.

Later, 3-way ball-type solenoids fail – electrovalves - "shifters" Solenoid shift 105421. Their manual numbers are EV-1, -2, -3, -5, -7. And VAG numbers - №88, 89, 90, 92, 94 (see tables to the left)

It is believed that 8-10 years is the average normal life of all 01M-01N electrical components, including sensors. After that, the resistance of their wiring begins to increase, the channel wears out, changing the characteristics of the valve closing and the computer “rejects” them. (More about solenoids >>>)

Hydroblock - 105740. Requires regular cleaning. For cars that have passed 150-200 tkm, this work is done as a routine. (As well as the "donut" repair)

Oil contamination comes from the gas turbine engine and is made up of dust from the friction lining and wear of the support washer. Dirty oil clogs and eats up the metal of the channels and spools in the most loaded valves of the Valve body. (on right)

Torque converter lock-up valve 105169A-SX (Valve Bost) primarily suffers. Then - Main pressure regulating valve, - Booster valve, - Solenoid valve.

Due to a long drive with the eaten-up gas turbine engine lining, untimely replacement of the transmission oil and filter, the entire plate is subject to wear. (more)

Speed sensors 01M

With each overhaul of an age-related overheated transmission, it is often necessary to change:

- Input speed sensor (105436) and

- Output speed sensor (105438). left.

For different machines, these sensors have different modifications - there are long Output Sensors, and there are also short ones, which are the same for input and output, differ in their feature and connection.

A consumable for most repairs is - Solenoid Wiring, Wire Harness (105446), which, due to frequent problems, was constantly improved by designers and now there are several modifications of it on the market.

The most commonly ordered wiring is for 01M. Less commonly ordered universal wiring No. 105446A (for 01N, 01M, 01P).

When disassembling, you have to knock out the rubberized cover of the drive shaft and intermediate gear with a chisel, (89-up) No. 105483 -AF.

– Planetary row 105584. (on right).

The reason is that due to the resource wear of one of the support bearings (105241), its needles fall into the gears of the planetary gear set.

The service life of the bearings and the entire assembly is significantly reduced during overheating and oil starvation .

From old age and overheating under load on some models, a set of return springs rotates, pieces of plastic 105986 and springs 105976 fall apart and burst, which leads to the loss of the Reverse.

It is repaired with a repair kit with the replacement of a plastic retainer with a metal one - 105986. For all cars over 10 years old that have come for repair with burnt oil, the plastic of this set of springs must be checked and changed.

Wear pump stator 105520 in the central hole for cast iron o-rings 105199.

Because of this, the tightness of the connection with the shaft is lost, which leads to a lack of lock-up pressure of the Torque converter, in the Forward drum, or in the 3-4 package, which leads to the combustion of the corresponding clutches. Associated with the delay in the repair of the torque converter.

Wear on the thrust washer seat at the base of the stator is also common, resulting in axial play and vibration. They change the pump bushing 105034 and oil seals 105070. If you are late with changing the oil, and then replacing the oil seal and bushings, then you have to change the entire pump assembly - 105500.

Replacing worn out bushings in older automatic transmissions 01M is a typical type of overhaul. Craftsmen often order the whole set - No. 105030.

One of the main reasons for all problems with the "iron" is wear (or contamination) of the hydraulic plate, which leads to oil starvation of various friction units. F The iron here has such a large design margin that the 01M easily survives until the bushings are worn out without replacing drums, planets and shafts - the main sign of a balanced design. A rarity for modern automatic transmissions.

Torque converter due to the 01MN forced blocking began to work more intensively and after 150-250 tkm its overhaul with replacement of consumables is required (with aggressive driving). But nevertheless, of all the “bagels” of the 20th century, this one is perhaps the most reliable and long-lasting. Torque converter repair - 105001.

Unfortunately, it comes to repair after a critical oil starvation. Friction clutch wear and, as a result of overheating - bushings. There are designs of gas turbine engines with a bearing instead of a sleeve. Such a bagel does not ask for repair for a long time and can stain the valve body for a long time with the blocking clutch eaten to the very base. Modifications with a sleeve are more often returned to repair. During the overhaul of the gas turbine engine, in addition to changing the lining and seals, the bushing is replaced with a bearing, which makes it practically indestructible.

After repairs, a throttle valve adaptation is required. Check the tightness of the cast iron compression rings on the input shaft 105178.
Rinse and thoroughly clean the transmission cooler (Cooler), and when repairing a car that has been repaired with burnt oil, replace the cooler.

On which cars this automatic transmission family was installed:

Volkswagen produces reliable, inexpensive cars with German quality and comfort. More and more people around the world are choosing this brand. Since 1999, Volkswagen sales have increased by 20% annually. Since 2009, Volkswagen has been one of the largest car manufacturing companies in the world. The concern consists of more than three hundred companies. Audi, Bentley, Porsche, Skoda, Seat, Bugatti, Lamborghini, Scania - all these are parts of the Volkswagen concern. Cheap Volkswagen car options are popular. In Russia, they are usually brought to technological perfection and do not have "childhood" diseases.

For their cars, Volkswagen uses the usually popular and reliable automatic transmissions. Most of them are able to honestly leave the entire reasonable service life of the car, if, of course, they are serviced on time and are not exposed to unnecessary stress. Volkswagen automatic transmission repair is rarely required, is well studied and does not pose serious problems for service station specialists.

Volkswagen Passat B4 car

For the Passat B4 and Golf model with automatic transmission 096, the following repair features are characteristic:

It is better to order original gaskets and oil seals for Passat B4 and Golf, the rest are of poor quality, except for budget products from Atok.
Rubber pads on pistons lose their properties over time and begin to hold pressure poorly. The entire set of pistons must be replaced or the vehicle has been in service for more than ten years.
As a result of exposure of the hydraulic plate to contaminated oil, the pressure regulator, the torque converter lock-up solenoid, the pressure control valve, and the solenoid valve may fail. After 150,000 runs on the Passat B4, it is necessary to clean the automatic transmission valve body from dirty oil.
After ten years of operation of the Passat B4 and Golf, the properties of the wiring change, the resistance increases and the computer may start giving errors. Therefore, together with the solenoids and sensors, during overhaul, their wiring also changes.
From old age or excessive load, the return springs may fail, which will lead to the inability to engage reverse gear. After ten years, their condition should definitely be checked.

Automatic transmission 096 for Volkswagen Passat B4 and Golf

For the Passat B5 models with automatic transmission 01M, the following repair features are characteristic:

DO NOT SPEND MONEY ON REPAINING!
Now you yourself can remove any scratch from the body of your car in just 5 seconds.

It is better to take only original compression rings for Passat B5. The only analogue is only from the Atok company.
Rubber on the Passat B5 is made of poor quality, in the cold it quickly loses its properties, dries out over time. After a few years, oil begins to leak. At the first sign, you need to change the pistons. This usually applies to machines that have been in operation for more than 10 years.
The sliding bearing on the Passat B5, mounted on the front drum, is made of plastic. Over time, it loses its characteristics and at one point it simply scatters, damaging the machine gun with its remains. You can check its integrity by examining the pallet, if it is strewn with plastic fragments - it's time to change the bearing.

Volkswagen Passat B5 with automatic transmission 01M

The solenoids are quite reliable. Over time, the pressure regulator and ball-type solenoids may fail. Their normal lifespan is about ten years.
After 200,000, or better before, it is necessary to flush and clean the valve body from dirt. Dirty oil has the ability to abrasively process the insides of the valve body and "eat up" the metal of the valves and spools. The wear of the plate with dirty oil can be so severe that it must be replaced as an assembly.

Automatic transmission 01M for Volkswagen Passat B5

For the Passat B6 model with automatic transmission 09G, the following repair features are characteristic:

The Passat B6 automatic transmission is not demanding on completely clean oil, filters are used with an outdated design, however, they serve up to 200,000, after several oil changes and washes. However, when repairing after overheating of the box, it is better to replace the filter with a new one. When overheated, it will take away the remnants of the clutches and their glue, which will be impossible to get out of the filter. When installing such a filter back, the remnants of the clutches will fall into the box.

09G automatic transmission Volkswagen Passat B6 and Sharan

Volkswagen Passat B6 with automatic transmission 09G

For the Passat B6 and Sharan models with automatic transmission 5HP19 EYF, the following repair features are characteristic:

The 5HP19 EYF automatic transmission on Sharan lives well over 200,000 kilometers. This box forgives both slippage and overheating, but does not like dirty oil or its low level. Oil starvation is capable of destroying everything in the boxes. From valve body to clutches.
For the 5HP19 EYF service staff, Sharan is known primarily for its torque converters. Their forced blocking eats up the friction linings, which leads to severe oil contamination and subsequent repairs.

Automatic transmission 5HP19 EYF Volkswagen Passat B6 and Sharan

Volkswagen Sharan with automatic transmission 5HP19EYF

Repair and diagnostic procedures for automatic transmissions require special equipment and knowledge. However, Volkswagen transmissions are well studied and if you have the means and desire, you can try to repair them yourself. But, most likely, it will be cheaper to give this business to professionals. Repair of a Volkswagen Tuareg automatic transmission in Rostov, for example, will cost from 12,000 rubles in a normal service. Trained and experienced service employees will handle the repairs much faster and better.

Due to the complexity of the design of the automatic transmission and its control system, mid-life and overhauls must be carried out at a service station or in workshops specializing in the repair of automatic transmissions. In addition, repair work requires a large number of special tools and equipment to troubleshoot and repair. Therefore, the information in this chapter is limited to the removal and installation of the transmission assembly, as well as the removal, installation and adjustment of the selector cable.

Removing an automatic transmission

Removal of the automatic transmission is carried out in the following order:

- set up and secure the car on an overpass, ramp, lift or observation ditch, or set up the car on a trestle if work is carried out on a site with a firm horizontal surface. It must have sufficient area for access to the vehicle from all directions. Apply the parking brake;

- turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition lock;

- disconnect the wire from the "-" battery output;

- to improve access to the engine, it is advisable to remove the “front of the engine compartment”, which is an assembly that includes a front bumper, a radiator and a decorative grille, fan (s) of the cooling system, headlights, front sidewalls and a hood lock mechanism;

- move the selector lever to the "P" position;

- unscrew the nut of the cable lock to the selector bracket and disconnect the cable from the selector lever bracket;

- inside the passenger compartment, unscrew the screws securing the selector lever cover to the console, lift the cover up and turn to the side;

Rice. 5.124. Disconnecting the selector cable from the shifting mechanism. The location of the circlip is indicated by an arrow.

- remove the retaining ring from the selector lever (Fig. 5.124) and disconnect the cable from the switching mechanism;

- pull the cable out of the selector lever cover, disconnect it from all mountings and remove it from the car;

- unscrew the bolt and disconnect the grounding bus from the transmission;

Rice. 5.125. Places of installation of clamps on the coolant hoses of the transmission fluid heat exchanger (marked with arrows)

- using suitable clamps, clamp the inlet and outlet hoses of the coolant of the transmission fluid heat exchanger (Fig. 5.125), release the clamps and disconnect the ends of the hoses from the radiator. Use rags to wipe up any spilled coolant;

Rice. 5.126. Multi-pin connectors to be disconnected (shown by arrows)

- mark and disconnect the electrical connectors (Fig. 5.126) from the gearbox;

- unscrew the bolts and remove the protection of the transmission pan;

- disconnect the electrical wires and remove the starter;

- install a garage jack under the gearbox and support it;

- unscrew the bolt and remove the rear left engine support bracket from the gearbox housing and engine support;

- unscrew the bolts and remove the torque converter cover;

- unscrew the bolts and disconnect the drive shafts from the transmission output shafts and tie up the right drive shaft with a piece of wire as high as possible;

Rice. 5.127. Bolts of fastening of the lower suspension arm to the ball joint (marked with arrows)

- Disconnect the lower left suspension arm from the lower ball joint (Fig. 5.127);

- Move the left drive shaft over the suspension arm and put the free end back and away from the gearbox;

- turn the steering wheel to the left until it stops;

- through the hole for installing the starter, unscrew in turn each bolt securing the torque converter to the drive disk. To do this, turn the crankshaft with a wrench and socket head for the toothed pulley bolt until all the bolts have been removed;

- unscrew the bolts and remove the front cross member of the engine support from the car;

- Raise the engine slightly higher. Thanks to this, the gearbox will drop slightly and it will be easy to dismantle it;

- starting from the bottom, unscrew all the bolts securing the gearbox housing to the engine, except for the top one;

- before separating the gearbox from the engine, make sure that everything that is required is disconnected;

- unscrew the last mounting bolt in the upper part of the crankcase and separate the gearbox from the engine;

- so that the torque converter does not fall out of the gearbox, tie a bar across it to the gearbox;

- after all dowel pins are free, lower the gearbox out of the engine compartment using a jack.

Installing an automatic gearbox

Installation of an automatic gearbox is carried out in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following recommendations:

- install the torque converter, making sure that the driving pins in the center of the converter hub are in the recesses provided for them in the inner wheel of the hydraulic pump, and tighten the mounting bolts on the drive disc to a torque of 60 Nm;

- tighten the bolts securing the gearbox to the engine to 80 Nm (M12 bolts) or 60 Nm (M10 bolts);

- after installing the front engine support beam, tighten the bolts to a torque of 60 Nm, which will take the weight of the engine;

- install the bracket on the left engine support and tighten the bolts to a torque of 60 Nm;

- install the bracket on the left side of the gearbox and tighten the bolts to a torque of 25 Nm;

- attach the cover of the mounting window of the torque converter to the gearbox housing and tighten the bolts to a torque of 15 Nm;

- tighten the bolts of the lower suspension arm to the ball joint to the required torque;

- tighten the bolts securing the drive shafts from the inside to a torque of 45 Nm;

- install the selector cable in the reverse order of removal. Use a new retaining ring to attach the cable to the selector lever;

- move the selector lever to the "Р" position;

- on the gearbox, release the cable clamping bolt from the side of the selector shaft lever, turn the selector shaft up to the stop to the position corresponding to the "P" position, and tighten the clamping bolt;

- check the operation of the selector lever by switching it in all positions. The choice of each mode should be smooth and without delay.

Filling the automatic transmission with transmission fluid

Fill the gearbox with transmission fluid as follows:

- Using a funnel and a hose about 0.50 m long, fill the gearbox with 3 liters of ATF. Start the engine and shift the selector lever to all positions to fill the channels with transmission fluid. After that, return the selector lever to the "P" position;

- apply the parking brake and let the engine idle for a while;

Never overfill the gearbox, as it may malfunction.

- use the oil dipstick to check the transmission fluid level. If the level of the transmission fluid exceeds the "Max" mark, then it is necessary to pump out the fluid.

Filling the differential with oil (or transmission fluid)

The differential of an automatic gearbox type AG4 is filled with hypoid oil G50 or synthetic oil SAE 75W90, and the differential of an automatic gearbox type 01M is filled with ATF VW transmission fluid.

Rice. 5.128. Determining the oil level in the differential

The oil level in the differential should be checked every 10,000 km the vehicle has traveled.To measure the oil level in the differential, remove the speedometer drive shaft. At the bottom of the speedometer drive shaft, on its neck, there are “Max” and “Min” marks (Fig. 5.128), which determine the oil level.

To determine the oil level in the differential, do the following:

- dismantle the speedometer drive shaft;

- wipe it clean with a clean cloth and reinstall it in the differential;

- remove the drive shaft again and check the oil level in the differential. It should be between the "Max" and "Min" labels;

- if the oil level is below the "Min" mark, then add it to the differential case to the normal level.

The total amount of oil to be added to the differential case is 0.75 liters in case of an oil change.

Possible automatic transmission malfunctions

Possible malfunctions of the automatic transmission, their causes and remedies are presented in table. 5.20.

Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission device, it will be difficult for a motorist to correctly determine the causes of malfunctions and perform maintenance. If any malfunctions other than those listed above occur, the vehicle should be handed over to an experienced auto mechanic for repair. Take your time to remove the transmission, as most checks are performed without removing the unit from the vehicle.

I used a sleeve of a suitable height and diameter and extruded the sleeve.

Drive out the gearshift shaft. I just pushed it out with the wire.
Remove the gear shift lever.
And here is the second surprise - one of the springs is broken - the reason for the dangling gearshift lever in the car.

This whole mechanism in the collection costs about 4 thousand rubles ... Expensive.

“So what to do. ", I thought, we need to look for some analogue of the spring ... I went to the store of VAZ spare parts. I. Oh, MIRACLE! The spring from the eight switching mechanism turned out to be one-to-one with Foltz's. It only remained to figure out how to install a new spring to replace the broken one.

There are rectangular slots at the end of the mechanism. Through these holes, with the help of platypuses and some kind of mother, I literally "twisted", coil by coil, the remnants of the old spring, and “screwed in” a new one.
Unscrew the bolt and remove the bushing.
Remove the gear lever bracket.
Unscrew the bolt securing the 5th gear shift fork rod and the screw securing the reverse gear fork rod.
Remove the 5th gear shift fork rod and the reverse gear shift fork rod (sign them to make assembly easier).
Unscrew the reversing idler shaft fasteners (one of the three screws loosened in the photo above).
Remove from the gearbox housing simultaneously the primary and secondary shafts, the reverse gear with the shaft and the shift rods of the 1st and 2nd and 3rd and 4th gear shift forks (in general, everything that remains in the gearbox housing).
And here is all the "insides":
Well, the checkpoint is dismantled. Next, we proceed to cleaning, troubleshooting and repair, if required, and assembly.

In this photo report, the gearbox of the mechanics is removed, as well as the repair of the clutch drive on the Volkswagen Golf III (Volkswagen Golf 3) due to the fact that there was a breakdown in the clutch drive mechanism.

The beginning in this situation was laid by the fact that the clutch burned on the car, but the necessary repairs were constantly postponed, eventually causing the clutch pedal to fail.

So, to do the work, you need an assistant, a pit, a lift or a jack, whichever is available, and also, be sure to disconnect the battery terminal.

We tear off the nuts of the hub bearings with a head of 30 and a wrench. If it's problematic to do this with your hands, use a pipe.

We put the car on a stump jack and remove the wheels.

We loosen the tightening of the bolts securing the CV joints to the gearbox differential. A lot of effort is required and access will be difficult. While the assistant holds the brake, we rip off the bolts.

The bolt heads are not so simple, you need a CR-V M8 bit inserted into the head by 10.

On each side, using a head 17, unscrew 3 bolts attaching the ball joint to the lever.

We take the steering fist towards ourselves, thereby releasing the splines of the axle shafts.

We completely dismantle the axle shafts.

Using a jack, we prop up the power unit.

We continue to disassemble. Disconnect the positive wire and other terminals from the solenoid relay. Then we remove the starter by unscrewing the head 16 3 bolts that attach it to the engine and front support. If desired, the engine support can be removed completely for convenience.

Unscrew 2 bolts by 11 and remove the lower sump.

Disconnect the rods of the backstage mechanism from the gearbox.

Having disconnected 2 "balls", do not forget to open the plastic catch, otherwise you will break it.

Disconnect the clutch cable.

The connectors are removed from the "frog" and the speed sensor.

We unscrew 3 bolts 14 fastening the side support of the power unit.

We unscrew the bolt fastening to the body, by 16.

In the photo, most likely, a vibration damper. We also remove it.

We unscrew the two bolts securing the box to the engine from above.

In the photo, the clutch rod is sticking out of the box.

With a 14 head, we unscrew the bolts of the fifth gear cover.

We remove it. You may need a hammer.

Use a screwdriver to remove the spring.

We disassemble the node and discover the problem. Due to this crack, the rod pusher rotates on the splines. We change the pusher and reassemble. We use a sealant.

The box was removed on the occasion of a clutch replacement. If this is not required, you can simply remove the green cover. If it is difficult to remove, we give up the front engine support and remove the rear gearbox cover. You can also drain the oil.

It was not possible to capture the complete replacement of the clutch, but the main thing to know is to lock the flywheel by unscrewing and tightening the multi-faceted bolts by 9. You can lock it with a bolt and nut.