Do-it-yourself grand vitara hand-out repair

In detail: do-it-yourself grand vitara hand-out repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Transfer case overhaul - general information

Overhaul of the transfer case is a difficult procedure to perform on your own. It involves the disassembly and correct reassembly of many small assemblies and components. It is necessary to accurately measure the many gaps and correct them correctly by choosing the appropriate size shims and circlips. Thus, if it becomes necessary to overhaul the transfer case, its removal and installation can be performed by an amateur mechanic, while the actual repair and restoration should be left to the car service specialists. There is a possibility of purchasing remanufactured boxes - consult the specialists of the dealer department. In any case, the time and money spent on repairing and restoring the old box will be quite commensurate with the cost of purchasing a restored unit.

Nevertheless, it should be said that the overhaul of the transfer case by the forces of even an inexperienced amateur mechanic is quite possible, provided that there is an appropriate special tool and an accurate and careful approach to performing each of the procedures, when not one of even the smallest steps is skipped.

Tools required to perform a transfer case overhaul include pliers for removing and installing both inner and outer circlips, bearing puller, sliding hammer, drift set, plunger-type dial indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, it is absolutely essential to have a stable, comfortable workbench equipped with a vice, or a stand for dismantling transmissions.

Video (click to play).

When disassembling the transfer case, pay close attention to how each of the smallest components are installed, their position in relation to other parts, and the type of fasteners (take notes as you disassemble). The accompanying illustrations provided here are intended to help you understand the layout of the box - however, drawing up explanatory notes during disassembly still much more reliably guarantees the correctness of subsequent assembly.

Transfer case components type NP231

1 - Front holder of the crosspiece, its oil seal, sealing washer and fastening nut
2 - Plug, pin and spring of the switch lock
3 - the Front holder with an oil seal
4 - the Front half of the crankcase
5 - Vacuum sensor-switch with a sealing ring
6 - Assembly of the ventilation line
7 - Bearing and retaining ring of the primary gear
8 - Retaining ring of a gear wheel of a reduction gear
9 - the holder of the primary gear
10 - Thrust washers of a gear wheel of a reduction gear
11 - the Primary gear wheel
12 - the Guide bearing of the primary gear
13 - the Gear wheel of the lowering transfer
14 - a hub of a fork of switching of modes
15 - the Retaining ring of the hub
16 - the Distance washer
17 - the Springs of the synchronizer
18 - Sliding keys of the synchronizer
19 - the Hub
20 - the Coupling
21 - the Blocking ring
22 - Retaining ring of the front bearing
23 - the Front bearing of a secondary shaft
24 - the Front secondary shaft

25 - the Drive sprocket
26 - Drive chain
27 - Bearings of the drive sprocket
28 - Rear bearing of a secondary shaft
29 - the Driven shaft
30 - the Epiploon
31 - Assembling the oil pump
32 - Rear bearing of a driven shaft
33 - the Lock ring
34 - Rear half of the crankcase
35 - Filling plug with a gasket
36 - Drain plug with a gasket
37 - the Back holder
38 - Extension casing
39 - the Bushing
40 - the Epiploon
41 - the Mesh screen of the oil sampling tube
42 - Nipple connection of a tube
43 - Oil intake pipe
44 - the Sealing ring of the oil sampling tube
45 - Magnet
46 - Nut and washer of the lever of modes
47 - the Lever of modes
48 - the O-ring and the bushing of the holder of the selector
49 - Selector
50 - Fork modes
51 - Range plug
52 - Spring modes

Transfer case components, type NP242

1 - the holder of the front bearing with an epiploon
2 - the front half of the crankcase
3 - Switching selector
4 - a Fork of switching to a lower gear with inserts
5 - the Shift rod
6 - the Shifting bracket
7 - the Slider bracket
8 - the Bushing with a spring
9 - Fork of modes with inserts
10 - Bushing
11 - the spring of a fork
12 - the Bushing
13 - Assembly of the ventilation line
14 - Bearing and retaining ring of the primary gear
15 - Retaining ring of a gear wheel of a reduction gear
16 - the Holder of a gear wheel of a reduction transfer
17 - the Thrust washer of the gear of the underdrive
18 - the Primary gear wheel
19 - the Rear half of the crankcase
20 - Drain and filler plug
21 - the Rear bearing holder
22 - Extension casing
23 - the Bushing and the epiploon
24 - the Vacuum sensor-switch
25 - Magnet
26 - the Thrust ring
27 - the Lock ring
28 - the switching clutch
29 - the Gear wheel of the lowering transfer

30 - Guide bearing (primary gear / driven shaft)
31 - Front bearing of the front output shaft and circlip
32 - Shaft of intermediate clutch
33 - the switching clutch
34 - the Lock ring
35 - the Driven shaft
36 - Assembling the differential
37 - the O-ring of a tube of the oil pump
38 - Oil intake pipe of the oil pump with a mesh screen
39 - Rollers of the bearing of the driven shaft
40 - the Drive sprocket
41 - Drive chain
42 - the Lock ring
43 - the Oil pump seal
44 - the Oil pump
45 - Rear bearing with a circlip
46 - Rear bearing of the front output shaft
47 - the Lock ring
48 - Driven sprocket
49 - the Front secondary shaft
50 - Spacer washers of the driven shaft bearing
51 - Washer and nut of the shift lever
52 - the Lever of switching
53 - O-ring and sector oil seal
54 - Cork, spring and retainer pin
55 - the Sealing plug
56 - The front holder of the cross with a nut and a sealing washer, a slider and an oil seal

Transfer case components, type NP249

1 - the Epiploon
2 - the holder of the front bearing
3 - The front bearing of the driven shaft with a locating ring
4 - Front half of the crankcase (with a toothed ring of the underdrive of internal gearing and a bushing of the shift rod)
5 - the gear wheel of the lowering transfer
6 - the Primary gear wheel
7 - Thrust washers equipped with tongues
8 - Holder plate
9 - the retaining ring of the primary gear
10 - the clutch
11 - Clutch shaft
12 - the locking ring of the differential
13 - Differential assembly
14 - the Driving gear wheel of the driven shaft
15 - Retaining ring of a driving gear
16 - the Spacer washer of the bearing of the driven shaft
17 - Needle bearings of the driven shaft
18 - the Spacer washer of the driven shaft bearing
19 - the Driven shaft
20 - Viscous clutch
21 - the Retaining ring of the viscous clutch
22 - the Retaining ring of the oil pump installation
23 - the Oil pump

24 - Rear bearing of a driven shaft
25 - Retaining ring of the rear bearing
26 - the Drive gear wheel of the speedometer
27 - Assembling the rear holder (with a cap, an oil seal, a bushing, an access cover and a gasket)
28 - a locating ring of the rear bearing
29 - the Front half of the crankcase
30 - Rear bearing of the front output shaft
31 - Assembling the oil suction tube (with connecting hoses, mesh screen, tubes and O-ring)
32 - Assembling the shift fork with the rod (including fork lining)
33 - Drive chain
34 - the Front secondary shaft
35 - the Switching selector
36 - the crankcase magnet
37 - Front bearing of the front output shaft
38 - Retaining ring of the bearing
39 - Plunger and retainer spring
40 - Plug and retainer O-ring
41 - Lock nut and washer of the mode lever
42 - the Lever of modes
43 - Oil seal (front bearing of the front output shaft)
44 - the Holder of the secondary shaft cross
45 - the Sealing washer of the cross-piece holder
46 - the Nut of the holder of the cross

Before sending the transfer case for repair, it is helpful to have an idea of which part of the transfer case is causing the problem. Some of the defects are uniquely associated with different nodes, which can greatly simplify the troubleshooting procedure and reduce the time for troubleshooting. See also Section Troubleshooting at the beginning of the Guide.

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Let's list some of the features of this car: - Supports on the front and rear suspension are assembled together with the levers. The support is very durable for Suzuki, but sometimes it also needs to be replaced. In this case, they need to be changed along with the levers; - bearings are complete assembled with a hub. The outer ring of the bearing is the hub, the inner one is the splined part on the drive shaft. This design assumes easy and inexpensive repairs as needed; - cardan shafts are also assembled only, including 2 constant velocity joints and anthers. CV joint usually does not wear out, rupture of the boot leads to repair. With such a design, replacement of the CV joint will also be required. Anthers are often torn when the car hits the hole; - the boot of the inner CV joint can be purchased separately, but with the outer one it will be more difficult, it is not on the official sale. There are sets of 2 CV joints; - the car does not have repair mounts for headlights, the mount breaks quickly with a significant impact; - the transfer case is low by design, which, accordingly, reduces the geometric cross-country ability of the vehicle. The real ground clearance is much greater, especially if you put the protection of the Suzuki Grand Vitara razdatka; - the transfer case fogs up for the first 10-30 thousand km. In this case, when replacing, new modified oil seals save.

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For every motorist, knowledge regarding the prevention and repair of his car is relevant. Here are a couple of helpful tips. They will help you save a lot of money and time. Prevention and protection help maintain performance. Above, we considered the problem when the oil seal of the Suzuki Grand Vitara transfer case leaks. The problem, though small, is nevertheless annoying. Often there is no desire to go to a car service. The oil seal can be changed independently and the process will take no more than half an hour. And the cost of this procedure in the service is about 10-12 thousand rubles. To replace it, you will need to unscrew the rear universal joint from the gearbox (rear), take it out of the transfer case. The next step is to remove the oil seal, and then insert a new one. The procedure does not require draining the oil. Moreover, the replacement is easy, since the cardan is held on the slots and is installed in any position. For these purposes, you may need a diagram of the Suzuki Grand Vitara dispenser in order to have a good idea of the position of the parts.

The transfer gear guard is a special structure made of 3 mm steel or composite. Mounting instructions are included with the product. This part will help protect the transfer gear from mechanical damage, which is especially important with low ground clearance. Suzuki Grand Vitara transfer case protection really helps to reduce the number of transfer case replacement cases. It is worth remembering that full protection of the transfer gear is not needed. This will add extra weight and contribute to overheating in the summer.

Today we are servicing a Suzuki Grand Vitara car, on which it is necessary to replace the transfer case oil seal. We will show you a detailed photo and video instruction on how to do everything yourself.

Leaking oil seal is one of the common problems in this car, if you look under the bottom, you can see traces of oil around the transfer case. To get to the oil seal, it will be necessary to remove the propeller shaft.

We unscrew the 4 bolts attaching the propeller shaft to the flange of the rear gearbox, it is most convenient to do this using a 17 socket head with a knob and an open-end wrench:

We take it to the side and lower the gimbal down, after that we take it away from the transfer case with our hands and remove it. We remove the oil seal with a reverse hammer, at the end of which a hook is installed, we start it by the oil seal and pull it out:

If you do not have such a tool, you can, in principle, cope with improvised means, although it will be much harder. To press in a new oil seal, we need to select the appropriate mandrel. Its diameter is 54 mm, the mandrel should be slightly smaller.

We use a mandrel with an outer diameter of 52 mm. First, we place the oil seal by hand on the seating surface, as far as possible, so that it locks in there. Next, we press it in with our mandrel (by the way, it is from a set of tools for repairing a Moskvich gearbox):

It is not worth "getting carried away" strongly with pressing, it is necessary to deepen it from the edge of the chamfer by about 1 mm. After that, we put the propeller shaft in place. If necessary, add oil to the transfer case if you have been driving for a long time with a leaked oil seal.

Video of replacing the transfer case oil seal in the Suzuki Grand Vitara:

Backup video how to replace the transfer case oil seal in Suzuki Grant Vitara:

1. Drain the oil from the transfer case

2. Remove the rear propeller shaft.

3. Remove the plastic protection of the automatic transmission.

4. Install the hydraulic prop under the automatic transmission pan through a wooden block. We unload and remove the traverse.

5. Unscrew and remove the front propeller shaft.

6. We lower the gearbox on the hydraulic prop slightly below and disconnect the transfer case control chips.

7. Unscrew and remove the transfer case.

7. Change the rear oil seal of the automatic transmission.

8. We disassemble the transfer case. (remove the front part)

9. Unscrew and remove the transfer case shafts.

11. We clean the surfaces of the joints of the transfer case housing from the remnants of the old sealant.

Next, we collect everything in the reverse order. Apply a new sealant on the plane of the dispenser.

The oil change of the front and rear differentials, as well as the transfer case, as specified by the manufacturer, is performed every 45,000 km or every 3 years. It is also highly recommended to change the oil in case there is a suspicion of water entering the crankcase of the unit. To check, it is enough to unscrew the filler plug and look at the color of the flowing oil, the presence of a white emulsion indicates the presence of water and the need to change the oil.

Required tools: a standard set of metric sockets, a square wrench for unscrewing the drain plug (a 3/8 "square driver, a 200 mm extension with a 3/8" square), a container for draining used oil, a syringe or funnel with a long hose for filling oil.

It is advisable to warm up the differential before changing the oil. To do this, it is enough to drive a few kilometers. A pit or overpass for changing the oil is desirable, but not necessary - the plugs on the differential housing are in an easily accessible place, they can be unscrewed while lying on the ground. If additional crankcase protection is installed, remove it, as it will interfere. We thoroughly clean the squares of the drain plug from dirt.

Using a 3/8 ″ square knob and a 200 mm extension attached to it, try to unscrew the filler plug. If everything worked out, then we substitute the container for draining the oil under the crankcase and unscrew the drain plug. The drain plug on the inside is equipped with a magnet for collecting metal filings - we clean it from adhering particles. We are waiting for the end of the oil drain, wrap the drain plug in place. Using an oil filler or a funnel with a hose, fill in fresh oil with a volume of about 1 liter until the oil starts to flow out of the filler hole.We wrap the filler plug in place.

The rear differential oil is changed in the same way. The photo shows the location of the drain and filler plugs.

Before unscrewing the drain plug, we must first try to unscrew the filler plug, since if it sticks, an unpleasant situation may arise with the impossibility of pouring oil into the unit. It is more convenient to fill oil with a syringe, because it is extremely problematic to do this with a funnel. The volume of the oil to be poured is about 0.9 liters.

Changing the transfer case oil is completely similar to changing the oil in the two previous units - first you need to clean the holes of the drain and filler plugs from dirt, then try to unscrew the filler plug and only then unscrew the drain. It is highly desirable to replace it on a pit or overpass, since the transfer case is located almost in the middle of the car. The photo shows the location of the drain and filler plugs.

The oil must be filled with a syringe, the total volume of the oil to be filled is about 1.6 liters.

very helpful recommendations, thanks for the information and clarity. I would like to know about replacing the filter in the cabin with the Suzuki Grand Vitara J20A -140 hp. 2010 release. and the location of the jack when removing the wheels.

Nice article, nothing more. It is advisable to indicate the type of oil to be poured.

We unscrew the 4 bolts attaching the propeller shaft to the flange of the rear gearbox, it is most convenient to do this using a 17 socket head with a knob and an open-end wrench:

Video of replacing the transfer case oil seal in the Suzuki Grand Vitara:

Backup video how to replace the transfer case oil seal in Suzuki Grant Vitara:

The content of the article:

1. Drain the oil from the transfer case

2. Remove the rear propeller shaft.

3. Remove the plastic protection of the automatic transmission.

4. Install the hydraulic prop under the automatic transmission pan through a wooden block. We unload and remove the traverse.

5. Unscrew and remove the front propeller shaft.

6. We lower the gearbox on the hydraulic prop slightly below and disconnect the transfer case control chips.

7. Unscrew and remove the transfer case.

7. Change the rear oil seal of the automatic transmission.

8. We disassemble the transfer case. (remove the front part)

9. Unscrew and remove the transfer case shafts.

11. We clean the surfaces of the joints of the transfer case housing from the remnants of the old sealant.

Next, we collect everything in the reverse order. Apply a new sealant on the plane of the dispenser.

I give the names of the oil seals and their catalog numbers.After installing the distributor, I replaced the plugs with new ones (since the drain and filler were rusted), filled in with Castrol Syntrax Universal Plus 75w90 gl4 / gl5 synthetic oil in the amount of 1.6 liters.

1. Transfer case oil seal, front improved - 09283-40037 (instead of the old 29283-66J20) - 1 pc.

2. Transfer case oil seal, rear - 29283-66J30 - 1 PC.

3. Transfer case oil seal, inner - 09283-48015 (instead of the old 29283-66J40) - 1 pc.

4. Automatic transmission oil seal, rear (on the transfer case drive shaft) - 24771-54j30 - 1 PC.

5. The filler plug of the automatic transmission transfer case (comes without a magnet) - 29849-57B00 - 1 PC.

6. Drain plug of the automatic transmission transfer case (comes with a magnet) - 09246-16010 - 1 PC.

7. Transmission oil in the transfer case Castrol Syntrax Universal Plus 75w90 gl4 / gl5 one liter each - 2 pcs. (For me, it's better than Motul)

Castrol Syntrax Universal Plus 75w90 gl4 / gl5

Oil leaking from the dispenser. Suzuki Grand Vitara / Grand Escudo NEW

I sin on the work of the “gray device in the photo”.

Hello! Please tell me the catalog number of this oil seal. Today I changed the oil and found the same problem on a 2 liter machine with 15,000 mileage (((

Sorry for the importunity, but, if not a guru, I would like to clarify as much as possible. Replacement rear bearing hub Suzuki Grand Vitara. My leak comes from the transfer case in the place where the cardan goes to the rear differential. Suzuki grand vitara burns engine check video Car 2011g.v. 2L AT, judging by the diagram, the part code is 09283-40022. Have I correctly identified this oil seal? Buy it? Is it just enough oil seal, can there still be some small things to buy? Is it necessary the original or an analogue? That's what Exist gives And another question - how much can the replacement work cost in a garage service, how laborious it is (a lift or some special tools may be required) and can it be done on the pit yourself? Do I need to change the oil in the distributor?

In one of the services, they could not take it off to me. They unscrewed the cardan from the rear axle and from the razdatka, the bushing (or whatever it was) that remained in the razdatka did not want to go out. The master (in quotation marks it is probably worth writing) said, I will not beat a hundred with a sledgehammer - I can break it. They collected everything back, added oil (by the way, there was only a floor of the level). I went to another one, having previously checked other forums (I really didn't find anything intelligible).

We unscrew the cardan from rear differential and try to pull out the handles - horseradish. Video Suzuki grand vitara the check of the engine is on video As a result, we remove the protection of the distributor, so that it is more convenient to crawl, and carefully, but strongly beat on the bushing (I will call it that), and over time it, together with the cardan, comes out safely. The fact is that there is a retaining ring = just pulling out the gimbal with your hands will never work. By time, replacing the hub bearing with Suzuki Grand Vitara takes about 40-50 minutes. Next, we take out the oil seal and see that it is 2mm less than what I bought (29283-66J30) + slightly different in shape. However, by neatly hammering into place, having cut off the excess, I got up, as it seems to me, better than my own, well, for sure. 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara car, mechanics, engine 2. Next, drive the bushing with the universal joint back (strictly according to the previously applied marks). After a couple of thousand I'll climb in to see if it's flowing or not and unsubscribe.

1. Transfer case oil seal, front 09283-40037 (ordered 29283-66J20, but received a notification that this number was discontinued and replaced by 09283-40037)

2.O-ring 09280-24010

We unscrew the bolts connecting the shaft and the distributor, move the shaft to the side, then take out the washer and the O-ring. The washer is different from the one purchased (the old one is flat, the new one already has a rim).

In this issue of "Technical Environment" its host Gennady Emelkin tells how replace rear stuffing box…Traces of oil on the joint between the automatic transmission and the RK.We drain the oil from the transfer case (do not touch the gearbox!).Remove the automatic transmission lower casing.We remove the rear universal joint completely, and unscrew the front one only from the RK flange and take it to the side.We unscrew the middle part of the muffler on both sides.Place of installation of the device.We unscrew the traverse from the body and the pillow, it can be removed both together with the pipe or separately.We unscrew the pillow and lower the unit.Carefully cut off the fastening strips, and during assembly must be secured with plastic clamps.We unscrew the two upper bolts with the head on "12" (the most inconvenient, the rest are simpler).We unscrew all the bolts of the transfer case in a circle.Carefully remove the front part of the transfer case, it is very important not to damage the oil channel tube.We remove the oil channel tube.Reinstall the tube.We unscrew the shaft mounting bolts and remove the shafts from the cover.Using a screwdriver, we take out the unusable oil seal, install a new oil seal.Apply sealant and assemble, install everything in reverse order.

Image - Grand Vitara DIY hand-out repair

The transfer case oil seal is one of the few weak points of the Suzuki Grand Vitara. The appearance of traces of oil on the joint between the automatic transmission and the RK just indicates that this oil seal needs to be replaced (the oil seal of the output shaft of the transfer case). How to replace with your own hands and what you need to do, see this photo instruction, report in pictures on replacing the oil seal of the Grand Vitara transfer case.

Hello. We will replace the transfer case oil seal on the Suzuki Grand Vitara.

Tools:

large impact puller with hook for engaging the stuffing box

mandrel for pressing in the stuffing box

crank
head seventeen
open-end wrench for seventeen
hammer

29283-66J30 - original oil seal

1. Remove the propeller shaft to access the oil seal.

2. With a 17 key, unscrew the four bolts securing the propeller shaft to the rear gearbox flange.

It is convenient to use a head for seventeen, a knob and an open-end wrench to hold the nut.

3. After unscrewing the bolts, remove the propeller shaft and remove it down.

4. We remove the propeller shaft from the transfer case.

5. We put the hook of the puller by the oil seal and pull it out with blows.

6. We take a brand new oil seal and install it by hand into the seat so that it locks in there. We put the mandrel on the gland and press it in with light hammer blows on the mandrel.

You need to press in just below the chamfer, about one millimeter.

The outer diameter of the gland is 54 mm. This means that a mandrel with an outer diameter of 52 mm will work well. Such a mandrel is used to repair the gearbox of the Moskvich 2141 car.

7. Insert the propeller shaft into the transfer case and fix the propeller shaft to the flange of the rear gearbox.

how is the frame doing, whether there are cracks, whether the frame is bent, whether it is rusting. Padzherik is to be repaired 2.Just now I thought before going to bed if .. although why if. when the frame is screwed on my gas 69, can I fit it and how it will be or will I need to look for a replacement. And then this video accidentally turned up. Tin guys: Well done, positively. but the tin, which I have to do sometime: I'll go further and see what happened to Suzuka and Alena:yes vitarkas are famous for their foil frames.Well, why all these patches? profile pipe is on sale.how to sew up the frame from further rusting from the inside? what does the frame cover?Thanks for the reviews, I bought a 1992 Vitara myself a month ago. I'm starting to marafetthresholds are evil. and. how I like the frames of the Japanese. straight uazovskaya looks so sad against their backgroundDIY suzuki grand vitara car repairIn this article I will try to answer questions about replacing timing chains on a Suzuki Grand Vtitara from 2005 and above, with a 2.0 liter J20A engine.The most common questions about changing chains on this car are how often they are changed and why they fail so quickly!Let's start with At what MOT the timing chains change.There is no such thing as such a regulation for replacing the chain in terms of mileage. It changes as it breaks down. Not literally, of course. The failure signal is the extraneous noise in the internal combustion engine in the area of the front engine cover. They can be constant, with over-gasification at a drop in speed, and at the time of starting the engine for the first 2-3 seconds. Everything indicates the degree of wear. Here I will clarify, the conversation is not only about the chain itself, but the timing mechanism assembly. These are 2 chains (upper and lower), dampers, tensioners, and stars. You cannot change it separately, I will explain why. In some services, when replacing chains, they often do not change the stars, I would even say they rarely do this.They do not do this mainly due to inexperience, or due to the lack of these spare parts in stock. This, in due time, leads to the fact that the chains will again begin to rattle after thousands of 10 km. Visually, the development on the stars, especially in the absence of a new one for comparison, is difficult to detect, but what is detected is already a critical development (displacement of the teeth or broken teeth). In services, those who specialize directly by Suzuki or often repair them and are interested in their regular customers change chains only in sets.Why are they failing !?It is for these reasons that the service life of chains from 45,000 km to 150,000 km appears, chains in engines that are serviced in a timely manner, the oil level is periodically monitored, and change at runs over 120,000 km.Well, and accordingly from all this it follows that you need to change the oil no more than 10,000 km, and check the engine oil level at least once a week.You can see the cost of timing chains hereImmediately I will make a reservation on the issue of breaking the chain, in my memory there were only 3 cars with a J20A engine where the chain broke, in one case the engine became not repairable (fist of friendship))).Not a lot of creep, broken teeth on the sprocket))Instruction (manual) for the repair and operation of a car Suzuki Grand Vitara from 2008 PDF RUS ArInstruction (manual) for the repair and operation of Suzuki Grand Vitara cars since 2008 PDF Publishing house: Arus Language: Russian The manual is intended to help drivers and locksmiths to repair Suzuki Grand Vitara cars since 2008 with their own hands. The manual describes the device, repair, technical characteristics of units and various auto systems. The sequence of disassembly and repair of units is indicated using photos with detailed descriptions of the actions performed. Gasoline engines 1.6 liters. (M16A), 2.0 l. (J20A), 2.4 liters. (J24B) and 3.2 liters. (N32A). The Appendices contain recommended tools, lubricants and fluids, lip seals, bearings, tightening torques, and lamps. The file is in PDF format that can be opened with Adobe Reader. The book is not complete, only pages from 1 to 227. The full version will appear, I will replace the file. You can download it for free at the linkSuzuki Grand Vitara is a thoroughbred SUV: a powerful torquey engine, small overhangs, a short wheelbase, a frame chassis, a ratchet with a lowering row and the ability to rigidly connect the second axle, a continuous rear axle in combination with a firmly knocked down, muscular body, large stylish wheels. At the same time, a cozy and comfortable interior.A car that can successfully combine two roles - a car for every day and a car for a small off-road escapade. For thirty years now, Suzuki has been producing off-road vehicles that successfully combine the traditionally high Japanese quality and a relatively low price. Now it is difficult to imagine that the first model of this class Jimmy weighed only 600 kg and was equipped with a two-cylinder air-cooled engine with a capacity of 25 hp. The Vitara family, which appeared in 1988, opened a new page in the history of the company.The spring suspension of its early models gave way to a spring-link suspension, the steering received a hydraulic booster, and the interior of the car lost its former Spartan look - it became more comfortable. Three years later, in 1991, the five-door Vitara was added to the range of produced models.It was recognized as the car of the year in Spain, and in 1995 in Germany it was named the cheapest car to maintain. Suzuki has high hopes with the appearance of a new model - Grand Vitara. The all-terrain vehicle looks respectable, it is elegant, and the galvanized body on a sturdy frame offers considerable service life.Its saloon is not only functional, but also cozy, and such pleasant little things as shoe boxes under the front seats will appeal to many. The new model is equipped with two gasoline engines with distributed fuel injection, including a new 2.5-liter power unit with a capacity of 144 liters. With.the maximum torque of which is at 3500 rpm.Despite the urban appearance, the Grand Vitara is well adapted to off-road driving. Four-wheel drive can be engaged without stopping the car, and, if necessary, engage a downshift in the transfer case.In the McPherson-type front suspension, gas-filled shock absorbers are installed independently of the springs. The rear suspension of the classic five-link design allows the car to move confidently in different road conditions. We add that the power steering provides the maneuverability necessary in the city - only 10.6 m is required to turn the Suzuki Grand Vitara.June 29, 2011 June 23, 2011

Video (click to play).

Disabling the automatic headlamp washer function for Suzuki Grand Vitara New Many of the owners of the latest generation of Suzuki Grand Vitara are uncomfortable with the automatic headlamp washer function. However, it is not. Each time the engine is started and the dipped beam is turned on, turning on the windshield washer entails a one-time automatic activation of the headlamp washer. it is not very convenient, since it is not always necessary, it increases the washer fluid consumption and is practically not relevant in the summer. Eliminating this option is a matter of a few minutes.