To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.
You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.
Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:
In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.
If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic:
VIDEO
A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4 × 4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one.
Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....
All about the car and for the car Honda Partner / Honda Partner
Message THE ARK »04 Oct 2014, 12:48
Well, here I went through the power steering pump, changed the bearing, oil seal and rubber ring. I bought a 4 liter can of PSF2 (2,100 rubles). Tomorrow I will put the pump back on the car and I will flush the system, otherwise today it is already dark outside
Added after 18 hours 6 minutes 21 seconds:
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In general, a short report. I took off the tank, the mesh was so dirty that even gasoline did not flow well through it. The tank is washed very badly, washed with everything possible - carbcliner, gasoline, solvent, fairies. I even tried to boil in a faerie to wash off the leftovers, but still some dirt remained. After drying, I put the tank down, poured the slurry and started the car, etc. About a miracle! Silence! After 30 seconds, I turned off the engine, refilled it to the level. Everything! I hope my experience is useful to someone.
Shl. After the bulkhead and installation of the gidrach, pulling the belt, I broke off the oil dipstick. He broke it in line with the pipe in which he sits and when trying to dig it out with a sharp thread, he fell deeper. He took a thin iron wire, heated it red-hot with a gas burner and carefully, without pressing hard, melted the hole and the top of the probe. Then he took the screw and with a large pitch of turns and slowly screwed it half a turn into the hole. Pulling sharply upward, the probe got out. Maybe someone and it will be useful)
Post has been edited entrance – 1.11.2015, 6:37
I set myself the task of making the buzzing power steering work, but even it does not work out very well. Buzzing when you turn the steering wheel in place, the steering wheel is heavy.
A question for connoisseurs - what wears out in GUR?
I decided to unsubscribe, while there is nothing to do on the weekend 🙂
I ordered all the rubber bands, bearing and oil seal. I changed it. The result is positive, but still the problem was solved by 80 percent, and 20 percent remained. When you turn the steering wheel, there is still a slight hum of the power steering, barely audible.
Something like this. the best way out is a contract pump
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message rover »27 June 2011, 11:41
Message Hotabych »27 June 2011, 16:06
Message vitaha »27 June 2011, 16:59
Message rover »28 Jun 2011, 03:50
Message lexa93 »28 Jun 2011, 16:52
Message vitaha »Jun 30, 2011 4:13 am
Message vitaha »15 Jul 2011, 09:35
Message Evgeny P »08 Jun 2012, 20:03
Message favorite »02 Apr 2013, 03:04
started the car in the cold at about -30 the gur belt broke off, drove 370 km to the house bought the belt was going to put the gur pulley is not spinning. disassembled one petal, broken, and jammed. threw it out, put it together, put it when you turn the steering wheel, vibration and the steering wheel turns tighter. black psf liquid with a burning smell. by hand, the power steering pulley turns easily, it is not felt that it wedges. question from what vibration.
p / s before it jammed everything worked fine, no hum or vibration, the steering wheel turned easily. Help me to understand. And are there any pictures in detail of what and how to put in the guru.
Message aNDREJ Apr 02, 2013 05:16 am
Message favorite »Apr 02, 2013, 05:20 am
Message aNDREJ »02 Apr 2013, 06:02
Message favorite Apr 02, 2013 06:07 am
Message aNDREJ »02 Apr 2013, 14:20
Message favorite »03 Apr 2013, 03:16
vibration has not disappeared
Added after 18 minutes 19 seconds:
Fluid gurgles in the power steering reservoir The old pulley has worn out from time to time (inside the notches, everything is either in the dirt or worn out - I tried to wash it in any way) and began to beat, the belt walked 3 mm. When replacing the pulley, I disconnected the hoses and removed the tank, looked and it was dirty there (but not much). I collected everything - not a whistle of a belt, everything is Super and poisons with a tank. So when replacing the timing belt, feel free to remove the power steering for ease of operation, better access to the Conder belt tensioner. Just lay down more rags - the loss of slurry is inevitable.
did not notice the truth that the belt walks. but you can try. even if suddenly the vibration stops the steering wheel, it still turns
Thank you for this report Michael199 for editing. Steering rack Honda Civic cannot be called a disease in the full sense of the word, but with 180,000 - 200,000 km of run, even it comes into a state of "fatigue". Through cracked, torn anthers, dirt gets into the rail. The process of accelerated wear of the steering mechanism begins under the influence of abrasive in the road dust and getting into the rack with dirt. Plus, without protection, the guide rails rust pretty quickly.Not the best way to repair is to remove the rust and fill the rack with new grease, especially if the grease is not designed to work specifically in the steering rack. If the rack does not work properly, the load goes to the power steering (GUR) as a result of which it wears out faster than with a working rack. The new OEM Honda rake costs about $ 1200-1500, or even more, which, you see, at a car price of $ 7000. becomes just a gold piece. A contract rail, it is also repaired, costs a little cheaper, but in the same price range, $ 500-1000. What to do? Of course, do not lose heart, but repair the rail on your own.
To get started, you will need the following things, in general repair price 100-150 $
Steering rack repair kit - 06531-S04-J51 ($ 50)
Anthers to the rail - 53534-ST0-013 and 53534-SR3-N52 ($ 30)
Steering column bushing - 53416-S04-J51 ($ 15)
Power steering fluid - Honda PSF 3 bottles or 1 liter
Good vise
10, 12, 14, 17: heads and keys
Adjustable wrench 34 or 36 approx.
Live power steering if broken
First thing remove the steering rack Honda Civic. Unscrew two hoses on the rail itself. Hoses run from the pump to the rail, and from the rail to the fluid reservoir. To make it easier to do, you must first unscrew the other fasteners of these hoses, they are attached to the subframe with 10 small bolts. you drop the soft tube, which goes from the reservoir to the rail (fastened with a clamp), then unscrew the rigid high-pressure pipe with a 14 split wrench, which goes from the pump to the steering rack itself. remove the middle part of the exhaust and a small metal protection covering the steering rack from below, remove the steering tips and rods, and in the cabin, unscrew the two bolts by 10, which hold the cardan between the steering column and the steering rack and remove the cardan up. Next, we extend the steering rack guide in one direction (I moved to the right) and take it out.
10mm bolts holding the steering rack gimbal
It is enough to simply loosen the upper bolt in the steering column and, by moving the steering gimbal upwards, disconnect it from the rack.
IMPORTANT REMINDER! After you remove the gimbal, under no circumstances turn the wheel! Without a rack, the steering wheel will not have a limitation of travel, and by rotating it to either side, you can ruin the loop of contacts on the steering wheel. You can turn the steering wheel if necessary! But always return it to the position in which you took it off! Also, before disconnecting this cardan between the steering column and the rack, put the wheels in a level position and try to keep the steering wheel in the same position throughout the work.
By removing the rail, you will be very unhappy with her appearance, there is dirt, rust all around, yes, and in this state most of the components on your car, but for now forget about it. After a while, you will bring the rail into excellent condition with your own hands, and it will serve you for a very long time, the main thing is attentiveness and accuracy. Unscrew absolutely everything that is on the rail, and try not to mix up or lose the removed parts!
Start with guide sleeve. To do this, unscrew the lock nut (size 34 or 36, I used an adjustable "gas" wrench) then unscrew the tensioner with a 14 wrench and pull out the spring and the bushing itself. Next, use a 12 wrench to unscrew the tubes that remain on the rail. In my case, there was horror:
Swamp and rust inside the steering rack.
With a key or a 12 head, unscrew the two bolts distributor and take it out.
Distributor bolts removed
As you understand, all removed parts simply need to be cleaned of a layer of dirt and washed as best as possible. But the hardest part of the job is still ahead of you.
When assembling the rail at the factory, after tightening the main nut, a small point is pressed on the rail body with a core or a press, which fixes the nut and prevents it from unscrewing arbitrarily under the influence of shocks and vibration that occur when driving a car.
This point should be drilled out with a 3mm drill to a depth of about 2.5 - 3.0 mm. If you do not drill this point, then you run the risk of unscrewing this nut, rip off the thread on it. Initially, this is exactly what happened to me. I had to look for a new nut or rather, buy a dead steering rack and carefully unscrew this nut from it.
And it was necessary to drill like this
If everything is drilled correctly, then the nut can be easily unscrewed, and the thread remains in place. For your information, the original nut costs about $ 100 or 6000 r and wait for it under the order for about a month. Having unscrewed the restrictive nut, we pull out the rail guide as much as possible and then carefully press it out together with the oil seal. Then we take a special mandrel and with its help press out the second oil seal. (According to the manual, the head on 17 seems to fit, but it wedged me up, so I did not risk it and carved myself a special mandrel ). In principle, everything is parsed. Once again we wash and clean everything!
Before assembling, it is worth paying attention to a couple of points. The main reason why our reiki begin to die is our own carelessness. Namely - torn anthers of the steering rack. Do not think that if you wrap a bag on the steering rod, then dirt, sand and water will not seep into it. All this leads to the formation of a rack of rust on the working shaft, which, forming uneven growths or pits, is just the same spoils the oil seal. In my case, everything was rather sad. The black stripe on the shaft and the dots are rust that has eaten deep enough. And because of it the rail was leaking strongly.
In this case, there are several solutions:
Give the shaft to a turner for grinding (but it is important to take into account that you cannot remove too much)
Buy a new shaft (To my surprise, its cost is noticeably lower than that of the rack assembly)
Grind the shaft by ourselves (which I actually did)
It turned out, of course, so-so. But, looking ahead, I will say that the result justified itself
After you have prepared your old shaft or bought a new one, you can proceed to reassembly.
My ground shaft and rack
ATTENTION! Be sure to purchase the original steering rack repair kit in advance! (06531-S04-J51).
Genuine Honda repair kit
The kit includes everything you need
First of all, we change rubber and plastic rings on the guide rail. We remove the old rings and put on new ones from the repair kit, first rubber, and then plastic.
Be sure to level the plastic ring so that it is not twisted anywhere.
In the rail itself, in the reverse order, we lay an iron washer from purchased repair kit. Basically, you just throw it into the rack body.
Before installing the first oil seal, according to the manual, the teeth on the shaft must be wrapped with special tape. To be more precise, we are talking about ordinary FUM tape, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store that has a plumbing department. It is necessary to wind the shaft so that when you put on the outer seal, you do not damage its working surface on the teeth on the shaft.
Shaft wrapped with FUM tape
You need to wind the tape from the center of the shaft to the edge, in this case, when you put on the oil seal, it will not cling to the tape, but will slide along it. Then lightly grease the oil seal and slide it over the shaft so that the flat side is facing from the center to the teeth.
Then insert the rail into the housing. Due to the stuffing box, the shaft will not fit easily, it must be pressed in. In fact, you press the oil seal into place with the shaft.
Then put the second oil seal with the flat side towards you and tighten the restricting nut.
Correct installation of the stuffing box
After you have tightened the restrictive nut, you can core-fill the same point on the rail as it was done at the factory so that the nut does not unscrew.(Personally, I did not do this, and just covered the old place with sealant).
Next, we put in place the liquid distributor, changing the sealing rubber from the repair kit on it. But, before doing this, you will need to crank the shaft along the teeth of the distributor. Then a little new grease needs to be filled into the lower bearing. This is necessary so that the distributor turns more easily and there is no extraneous noise. Please note that if your rack has been leaking for a long time, then in this bearing there is no normal lubrication left. Therefore this must be done. It is also advisable to lubricate the bearing on the distributor itself.
We stuff new grease into the lower bearing
The teeth on the shaft are also lubricated with new grease. Just don't put too much of it.
Now the only thing left to put is the steering rack guide. There is also small nuance, which I think it would be nice to pay attention to. If your rail knocks, but does not leak, the rods and tips are not always the reason for this. In some cases, backlash in the rail appears due to wear on this rail. Since its part, which is in contact with the shaft, is made of plastic, it wears out, which leads to the appearance of free play between the teeth on the shaft and the teeth on the liquid distributor. In its normal state, the spring and this guide press the shaft against the distributor, thereby removing the play between the teeth.
In the photo you can see, on the left is an old worn out bushing, and on the right is a new original (by the way, it costs about $ 10 or 600 rubles.)
Left - worn, right - new steering rack guides
Sometimes it is enough just to change this guide, and all problems with backlash are solved.
But back to our rake:
Before installing the guide, it is necessary to apply a certain amount of grease to its plastic part.
Before installing, the new guide must be lubricated
Next, put the guide in place. Then we put the washer, if you had one, and put the spring in place. Before installing the spring, lubricate the back of the guide bush or the spring itself and tighten the bolt in its place.
According to the manual on the bulkhead of the rail, in order to correctly set the pressure force of the guide, you need a bolt that fixes it first tighten to 25Nm, and then weaken it. This is done in order to align the shaft and guide, and to develop the spring a little. After loosen this bolt, it must be tightened, but with a smaller torque of only 3.9Nm. Then, holding the bolt with a 14 wrench, screw and tighten the thin locknut.
After that, screw on all the tubes? which were on the slats and EVERYTHING. The rail is ready.
Your steering rack is as good as new!
After repairing the rail itself, we install the removed spare parts back to the car. After you put the rail in place, first of all, screw on the high pressure pipes (from the pump to the rail) and the return hose. Then you can safely screw the rail to the stretcher. Then you screw on the tie rods, put on the anthers and screw on the tips. If you were able to remove the rail yourself, then you should also be able to put it back together, there is a purely constructor. To install the steering wheel, set the wheels to approximately level position, and then put the steering column cardan on the rack.
Next, fill the power steering fluid into the tank, Original HONDA PSF. Since the system has been drained completely, you will need almost a liter of new fluid.
Smoothly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, DO NOT start the car! With such manipulations with the steering wheel, the liquid enters the rail, being distributed throughout the system. Only after the liquid from the tank has left at least a little can you start the engine and repeat the rotation with the steering wheel in order for air bubbles to come out. Then stop the machine and add fluid to average mark. Between minimum and maximum!
If everything was done correctly, then the noises when the steering wheel rotates will disappear, the steering wheel itself will turn much easier, the knocks will disappear, and the power steering fluid will stop leaving and will not foam. Such renovation will save the family budget very well. And finally, since the tips were removed, you will have to make similarity collapse. The total cost of repairing the steering rack, with all original consumables, will be approximately $ 100-150. P.S. do not delay repairing your cars. Change all consumables on time.
This article is relevant for Honda vehicles produced in 1992-2000, such as Civic EJ9, Civic EK3, CIVIC EK2, CIVIC EK4 (partially). The information will be relevant for owners of Honda Integra in DB6, DC1 bodies, with ZC, D15B, D16A engines.
This is really more convenient than writing comments below.
Power steering fluid in Honda Partner is an oil that transfers resistance from the power steering pump to the hydraulic cylinder, and also lubricates all friction pairs. The oil is circulated through the hoses connecting the power steering units, including the Honda Partner power steering plastic expansion tank, which has MIN and MAX marks to determine the level.
The power steering system itself is the Honda Partner hydraulic system, part of the steering mechanism to make it easier to turn the steering wheel and set the trajectory. If the power steering refuses, it is possible to drive the car, but the steering wheel will be difficult to turn, it will become heavy.
The power steering fluid level in the Honda Partner can be determined by the marks on the power steering plastic expansion tank. During operation, the power steering fluid of a Honda Partner can flow in various places, most often through hoses. As a result, the power steering oil level will drop.
Driving without fluid in the Honda Partner power steering puts the power steering pump at risk of damage, which costs a lot of money, as it will run dry. As a result, he will receive serious damage and fail. The power steering pump in Honda Partner starts working as soon as you start the car. If your Honda Partner is left without oil in the power steering system, then the best solution would be to call a tow truck.
Intensive use of Honda Partner makes the color of the power steering oil darker over time, often with a burning smell. This is a reason to think about replacing it. Overheating of the oil often occurs when the steering wheel is fixed for a long time in the extreme position, until it boils, the pressure in this case is maximum. You should also not leave the car when parking for a long time with the steering wheel turned all the way.
Quick prevention and inspection of the Honda Partner power steering includes: monitoring the power steering oil level and its quality in the power steering expansion tank, checking the drive belt tension on the Honda Partner power steering pump, assessing the condition of the hoses - cracks, smudges, fogging, as well as searching for leaks at the joints of the power steering elements.
There are two ways to change the fluid in the Honda Partner power steering:
partial replacement of power steering fluid of Honda Partner.
complete replacement of power steering fluid of Honda Partner.
For a partial replacement of the power steering oil, you will need a syringe (with a tube) and the oil itself, so much that at the end of the work it ceases to be dark.
Partial replacement of power steering fluid in Honda Partner:
We unscrew the cover of the expansion tank of the Honda Partner power steering.
With a syringe with a tube, we completely pump out the liquid from the power steering tank.
Fill the tank with new liquid, up to the MAX level.
We start the engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to the extreme position.
We turn off the engine and repeat point # 1 again until we get the desired result - light oil.
The next method for changing the power steering oil in a Honda Partner will allow you to achieve almost 100% replacement.
Complete replacement of power steering fluid in Honda Partner:
Drive onto an overpass, or jack up the car so as to hang the front car wheels of the Honda Partner, in order to be able to easily rotate them with the engine not running.
The 9000RpM technical center offers a qualified repair of the steering rack and the power steering pump on a Honda or Acura car, which allows you to completely restore the functionality of the steering system. Our specialists have been engaged in the restoration of power steering pumps and steering racks for more than 8 years. During this period, about 300 power steering pumps and 100 steering racks were successfully repaired, which allowed us to accumulate a lot of experience in this area.
Steering rack.Symptoms are fluid leakage through the oil seals and knocking on the rail.
Power steering pump. Manifestations - fluid leaks through the seals, noise of the power steering pump bearing. Increased effort on the steering wheel, the so-called “tight steering wheel”.
High or low pressure hoses. Expressed in fluid leakage due to loss of elasticity of rubber elements or loose clamps.
Every repair of a steering rack or replacement of a power steering pump in our service center begins with a fault diagnosis. It is worth recalling that all steering defects are directly related to your safety. Therefore, postponing the repair of the steering rack or replacing the power steering pump is unacceptable. We recommend changing the fluid every 3 years or every 45,000 km, whichever comes first. Only original Honda PSF should be filled with power steering fluid.
Therefore, after a certain mileage or if any of the above symptoms of a steering malfunction occur, we recommend that you immediately contact our service center.
Benefits of our services
comprehensive diagnostics of the entire steering system;
precise determination of the timing and cost of repair work;
availability of original spare parts and lubricants;
wheel alignment adjustment at a specialized stand;
effective prevention of the entire steering system;
one year warranty without mileage limitation;
Car service Honda 9000RpM performs any type of work, including the replacement and repair of all steering elements, including the steering rack and the power steering pump. If necessary, the power steering fluid is changed, which over time loses its basic physical and chemical properties. We produce professional power steering repair for Honda Accord, CR-V, Civic and other models of Honda and Acura brands.
The final stage of the repair work is the adjustment of the wheel alignment angles (wheel alignment), which restores the controllability and directional stability of the car.
Features of power steering repair on Honda Accord 7 .
A lot of such cars have been sold in Russia, so we have accumulated a lot of experience in their repair. Problems in the power steering on a Honda Accord can be noticed at the initial stage by simply opening the hood. If you look at the engine compartment from the front, then the power steering pump on the Accord is located on the left side. A common drive belt sits on its pulley. If the pump starts to pass liquid out through the oil seals, then you will see oil leaks all over the pump housing.
The high-pressure power steering hose goes directly to this pump, and if a leak begins through it, the hose will be covered in oil. Leaking steering rack or low pressure hoses are difficult to notice, but the oil level in the power steering reservoir will help us here. The barrel is also on the left, next to the pump. You should not open the lid and look inside. So you can only determine the presence of at least some level in the tank. You will need a flashlight (many mobile phones have one), but you need to shine not on the tank, but through the tank. When the light source is behind the tank, the liquid level is immediately visible from the front.
The power steering hose on the Honda Accord has been improved. The first batches of hoses (53713-SDA-A02) flowed quickly from heating in the engine compartment. In 2010, Honda slightly changed the composition of the rubber and made another rubber sleeve on top. It protects the base rubber from heat. The part number of this hose is 53713-SDC-A52. Now there are many fake hoses, the main distinguishing feature of which is the new number A52, but without the additional protective sleeve.
If you notice smudges or fogging on the high pressure hose, then you should not delay repairs. If Honda power steering fluid spills onto the exhaust manifold, a fire may occur. Honda notified its dealers about this in the same 2010. It is just as dangerous to buy a fake hose, because its quality cannot be guaranteed.
Another unpleasant surprise is a power steering pump for a Honda Accord with a K20A engine.Honda has produced several thousand pumps in which the insides were made of bad metal. Over time, the parts were erased, and the pump ceased to create the desired pressure. Unfortunately, such a pump cannot be repaired. In 90% of cases, power steering pumps for Honda are subject to high-quality repairs with a guarantee, so you should not throw out your pump and buy a used one, which turns out to be a pig in a poke.
Is the Honda steering rack out of order? Honda power steering defective?
Video (click to play).
Call us - we will definitely help you!
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
