Gur vaz 2112 DIY repair

In detail: gur vaz 2112 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Many modern cars are equipped with a power steering (GUR). Russian cars were also equipped with such systems, but not in such quantities as we would like. Power steering for VAZ 2110 was installed on rare trim levels, for example, VAZ 21124. In this article, we will show how you can repair the power steering pump yourself.

The price of a new pump is more than 3 thousand rubles. Any part can be repaired, the power steering pump is no exception.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

The power steering pump on cars of the tenth family was installed by the ZF brand (ZFLS 7691 955 339). It is also suitable for VAZ 2170 and 2123, as well as Audi A6, Wolksvagen Passat or Transporter.
The whole difficulty lies in the fact that this pump model is not collapsible, that is, there are no retaining rings or covers.
but restore the operation of the power steering pump it is still possible.

We remove and disassemble the power steering pump (instructions). Then we thoroughly clean it from dirt and visually inspect it to determine the causes of the breakdown. One of them can be a step on the inner wall of the pump casing. The step can be removed with a drill attachment.

In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.

Video (click to play).

Many modern cars are equipped with a power steering (GUR). Russian cars were also equipped with such systems, but not in such quantities as we would like. The power steering on the VAZ 2110 was installed on rare trim levels, for example, the VAZ 21124. In this article, we will show how you can repair the power steering pump yourself.

The price of a new pump is more than 3 thousand rubles. Any part can be repaired, the power steering pump is no exception.
The power steering pump on cars of the tenth family was installed by the ZF brand (ZFLS 7691 955 339). It is also suitable for VAZ 2170 and 2123, as well as Audi A6, Wolksvagen Passat or Transporter.
The whole difficulty lies in the fact that this pump model is not collapsible, that is, there are no retaining rings or covers.
However, it is still possible to restore the operation of the power steering pump

Another reason for a power steering pump malfunction may be a worn bearing in a closed housing (450 rubles) or an old oil seal (50 rubles).
When installing the oil seal, you may need to sharpen the shaft a little on a lathe.

There are two ways to fix the new bearing in the pump housing:
Make a groove at the turner on the outside of the bearing. Drill threaded holes in the pump wall. Insert a new bearing and secure it with sharpened bolts, which are then sawn off.

Alternatively, secure the bearing inside the pump using the folded edges of the housing.
We assemble the power steering pump in reverse order. Unlike the Saginaw pumps, the vanes on the ZF pump do not turn over.
To put the flange on the shaft, you need to put the heated flange on the shaft. After a sharp chill, it will sit firmly.

If power steering pump buzzing after assembly, then do not be alarmed, this is grinding in the parts, after 300-500 km the hum will go away.
Do not forget to change the power steering fluid afterwards.

If you are dismissive of your car, then this is fraught with consequences. The car will require constant care. To do this, he needs to carry out a periodic technical inspection, on the basis of which he is convinced of the serviceability of certain units.

Steering gear of a car

Timely fault detection steering rack and its repair - a guarantee of safety.

If a backlash appears in the steering mechanism, and there are also constant noises and knocks when driving on an uneven road, then this is a sign that the mechanism needs repair.

The construction of the rail itself is relatively simple. During operation, the parts of the mechanism can wear out, therefore, gaps appear between them, which will cause backlash.

Steering design

Anthers also play an important role in the rail, which protect the mechanism from dirt and dust, as well as moisture.

If the rubber covers are damaged or there are leaks in them, then this can cause some problems that may be associated with corrosion or contamination of unit elements.

If uncharacteristic behavior of the car on the road was noticed while driving, then it is necessary to determine what caused this. There are not many ways to diagnose the rail. They are all simple. Among them are the following:

If, in the area where the rack and the steering shaft meet, when force is applied, a knock is heard, then the problem is the lack of bearing lubrication.
If, by grasping the thrust joint in the engine compartment, the mechanism will backlash detected, this will indicate a worn bushing or insufficient tightening of the connections.

Removing the steering rack bushing

If you have to repair the rail on your own, it is worth noting that this is a rather complex process that requires a certain skill and knowledge. Certainly, self-repair will be cheaper... Also, the work will require the help of a partner.

Steering rack repair kit

First, you need to remove the battery, the platform under it and the air duct in the engine compartment. Next, you need to unscrew the clamps with which the rail is attached to the body. The difficulty of this work is that careless unscrewing can damage the studs, which are difficult to replace.

Removing the rod ends from the steering rack

After that, unscrew the bolts that hold the ends of the rods. Next, the flange bolt securing the rail is unscrewed. After that, you need to fold the rail away from the case. This will require a pry bar or crowbar. The mechanism can be pulled out through the hole in the mudguard. You will need a jack here.

Remove the support and protective cap from both sides of the mechanism.
Unfasten protective covers.
Remove the stop nut using a special key.

We remove the drive gear with the bearing

Next, you need to replace all the elements that are included in the steering rack repair kit, check the product for backlash and carry out a visual inspection.

After disassembling the rack, special attention should be paid to the worm gear mechanism and the support sleeve. Also, if the anthers have been damaged, then some parts of the mechanism may corrode.

Here everything must be cleaned and rinsed, and also abundantly lubricated.

It is imperative to change the retaining ring and the rail stop... These parts are subject to the most wear and tear.

After installing the rail on the car, you need to adjust it.

To understand the process in more detail, it is recommended to watch the video:

The other day a power steering kit turned up. Immediately I went to put it.There is nothing complicated if you have everything you need for installation, namely, all fastenings, hoses, rail, pump, tank.
Now, in order:

we put the mount under the hairpin of the tension roller of the alternator belt

We remove all unnecessary, namely, the generator together with all the mountings

in the timing cover we make a hole for the roller pin

Next, we put the power steering pump in the old place of the lower mounting of the generator and the lower cushion in place

unscrew the engine mounting pillow and insert the alternator belt by the way, you need to buy a new one longer than your own one and twist the pillow into place and fasten the upper alternator mount

put the generator tighten the belt

Next, we put the new rail in place, after unscrewing the metal casing around the hole in the cabin, so that the new rail crawls through. We fasten everything in the reverse order. We put a short cardan and this is almost complete. You also need to lay the hoses from the pump to the rail and from the rail to the return line to the tank. The tank is placed on the absorber mounting studs. That's all. Next, fill in the oil (I filled in red dextron. And start it up. Make sure there are no leaks anywhere. We leave and enjoy the light steering wheel.
My feelings simply cannot be conveyed in words - the steering wheel is spinning with a finger, it responds more clearly on the track, the bumps are now almost not felt, nothing gives off to the chest.

This text is devoted to replacing the power steering with the EUR for the VAZ 21124.
And so, for a long time I wanted to change the power steering to the EUR, tk. I think this solution from Avtovaz is not the most successful, at least because of the need to unscrew the engine mount, and lift it to replace the drive belt.

And so, it was bought:
1. Rake from viburnum sport
2. EUR with and shaft with disassembly from Priora 2009 onwards.
3. Lower generator bracket
4. Upper alternator bracket, assy
5. Alternator belt

Well, let's get started.
I did as follows:
1. Remove the steering wheel, remove the steering column cover
2. Unscrew the cardan from the steering rack, unscrew the steering column, take out the steering column
3. We climb under the hood, drain the oil from the power steering, take out the power steering reservoir, unscrew the SHVD from the rail
4. Unscrew the steering tips from the struts
5.Unscrew the rail, try to pull it out, I didn't succeed
6. We unscrew the steering rods from the rack itself, after pulling out the plate that fixes the bolts from untwisting. It is more convenient to do this even before unscrewing the rail.
7. Unscrew the steering rack protection from the exhaust manifold
8. Trying to pull out the rail again, it didn't work out for me again
9. Due to the fact that the rail with power steering has a large thickness at the entrance to the salon and, accordingly, the length for which the rail is much larger than the usual one, I cannot pull out the rail without disassembling the mechanism that is in the cabin happened. Only by removing the mechanism was it possible to pull out the rail.

10. Next, we put the EUR. By the way, the shaft connecting the rail and the steering column on 21124 with the power steering has the required length for installation with the power steering, i.e. the shaft from Priora and the union fork from 2131 are equal in length to the shaft from 21124 with power steering.
11. We throw power wires. By the way, I don’t know about everyone, but my wiring under the hood goes in the center from the bottom of the engine shield, although for some reason I thought that the wiring goes through the left fender.
12. Remove the dashboard, start splicing the wires. I connected a tachometer, speed sensor, and plus when the ignition was turned on. In my block, there were no wires for the EURD indication, I will then additionally throw it. By the way, after installing the EUR, there is very little space left in the steering column casing, and given that there are still wires and plugs for connecting the ignition switch, I had to tinker, and ultimately saw off the bottom of the casing from below and move the diagnostic connector a little lower.

13. Putting everything back that has not yet been collected in the cabin
14. Remove the power steering pump together with the bracket, put the bracket for the generator, the upper lower one, put the generator. I removed the pump through the bottom, unscrewing the protection

Actually, that's all, then the collapse was made in order to set the number of turns of the steering wheel in both directions equal.

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All this took me 13 hours of continuous work.
The impressions are pleasant. The effort on the steering wheel weakens after 40-50, but the steering wheel is a little taut at the speed, until I got used to it.
Consumption decreased by about 0.3-0.5 liters per 100, subjectively it became more fun to drive.

Oh yes, I forgot. Due to the fact that the rack with power steering is larger, a large hole remains in the cabin when installing the usual one. Theoretically, you can change this window, where the rail is inserted, and everything will be beautiful, but because I did not have this window, I glued it with several layers of vibration isolation STP, and on top with an accent. It turned out pretty quiet.

Today I decided to look into the power steering tank and was surprised - there is not enough oil and the color is kind of brown. After reading the forums, it was decided to replace the oil completely. At the same time, the pump noise began to appear. Having traveled to the shops, I found the best option for myself, because the oil that is poured from the factory is nowhere to be found. I bought Mobil ATF 220, red. Came home and started replacing. I will describe everything in detail.
An assistant is indispensable.

1. We pump out the liquid from the tank
2. Remove the return hose from the tank and muffle it, for example, with another hose with a pinched end (I completely removed the tank and rinsed it. - (on the barrel fittings, arrows indicate the oil inlet and outlet).
3. On the return line we put on another hose and bring it under the car into a previously prepared container
4. Fill the tank with liquid to the maximum level, the assistant starts the engine
(as soon as the liquid is gone, the assistant turns off the engine at your signal.
5. Fill the liquid again up to the “MAX” mark and repeat the procedure until the clean liquid flows into the prepared container;
6. Put on the return hose back and add power steering fluid to the desired level.
The advantage of the method is that it turns out to change the power steering oil completely, without remnants of the old one.
The disadvantage is that oil will be required 2 times more than with a regular replacement, it took me two liters.
The pump noise has disappeared, which makes me glad, and now I know what kind of oil I have filled ...

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Vanilla dodik
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Is registered: 13.10.
Posts: 331

Vanilla dodik
Oriental smoothie

Is registered: 25.01.
Posts: 22977
Location: Country of Elves

Is registered: 13.10.
Posts: 331

I don’t want to walk, from the garage to the store, half the city. I wanted to buy and deliver right away.

Added after 10 minutes 39 seconds:

It seems to be a 303 bearing in a closed housing
But, something confuses the way of repairing the pump with the revision of the bearing, shaft and pump housing.

Vanilla dodik
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Phantom
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this is the first thing that the search engine shows

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I'm a user!
3 rubles a new pump? ZF? Where did you find it?

Well, it seems, without modifications, in any way, how many articles I saw in the internet, all of which is being filed
_________________
I bought a Vaz - I became an auto mechanic!

Is registered: 13.10.
Posts: 331

I'm a user!
3 rubles a new pump? ZF? Where did you find it?

Well, it seems, without modifications, in any way, how many articles I saw in the internet, all of which is being filed

Better late than never!
On the market. Nowhere else was at that time
I also changed the pump and hoses. If anyone is going to change, make sure that the hose is with a vibration damper inside, and not just with a metal belt outside. I ran into it, I had to disassemble it twice.
In fact, after replacement: There is still a buzz from the new pump, but less than from the spoiled old one.

Depending on the year of manufacture, "ten" can be equipped with a hydraulic booster (GUR) or an electric booster (EUR). Of course, the second option is preferable, since it is easier and more comfortable to control the car with it.If your power steering is worn out or you just want to replace it, then, as an alternative, it is recommended to choose an EUR for the VAZ 2110.

There are two instructions in this material:

Installation of power steering.
Installation of the VAZ 2110 electric power steering instead of the standard power steering.

Before carrying out the installation, you need to understand the structure of these nodes, and also find out how they differ from each other.

These are completely different units. To understand the main differences, it is enough to study the power steering. Its main component is a crankshaft driven pump and is integrated with other parts. The principle of operation of the hydraulic booster is based on hydraulics.

As for the EUR, it is driven by an electric motor. It also includes an electronic control unit, a steering shaft with a torsion bar and sensors. The EUR works according to a different scheme:

When the steering wheel rotates, the torsion shaft twists;
Special sensors record the change in the position of the shaft and send data to the electronic control unit;
After analyzing the information, the unit sends commands to the electric motor;
As a result, the unit generates the necessary force or makes it easier to turn the steering wheel.

Car enthusiasts often argue which of the options is preferable for the “top ten”. In fact, the power steering is an outdated unit, which is being actively removed from modern passenger cars. The electric booster works even with the engine turned off, weighs less than the power steering. The main advantage over "hydraulics" is reliability - the electrical unit requires virtually no maintenance. Less load acts on the motor, as a result, less fuel is also needed. The EUR is also good for our conditions because it functions perfectly at low temperatures.

But the electric amplifier also has its drawbacks. Its design is more complex than that of "hydraulics", hence the high price. Sometimes the electronic control unit sends incorrect commands, especially the owners of the first generation Kalina felt this. If you drive for a long time on poor-quality road surface (or lack thereof), the EUR may turn off for a few minutes due to overheating.

Let's say you purchased a EUR kit - it can be from a VAZ 2110 or from another model, for example, from Priora. Prepare the following tools:

Drill together with a drill for metal.
A set of screwdrivers, grinder.
Long ruler.

Everything is ready? Let's move on to the installation.

It is necessary to remove the standard terminal from the block and put it in the block on the harness. We find the standard drive, which is attached to the block. In its place, you must put a free terminal. The wire can now be placed between the brackets.

After assembly, you will need to align the steering wheel if it is crooked. Separately install the sensor that came with the EUR. If the column casing is cracked, it is better to immediately change it to a working one. There may be gaps between the front panel and the casing and must be removed.

This manual is intended for VAZ 2110 vehicles that do not have power steering at all. Such models were produced for a long time, but they can still be found on the road today. In this case, the car can be upgraded with your own hands.

Installation of power steering can be done by hand, for this you need a power steering kit - today it can be purchased for about 20 thousand. Prepare a set of keys and screwdrivers from the tools, it is also worth taking care of the amplifier fluid in advance.

We dismantle the timing case and put the bracket on the three bolts. There are already holes in the cabin, so there is no need to drill new ones. Now we put a hairpin on which the roller will be installed in the future. Holes for it are not provided, so we make new ones. We put the video.

Here you can see the fasteners that need to be removed.
The photo below shows in detail what needs to be sawed off. After that, we securely fix the pump on the bracket and close it with a pillow. The assembled unit should be put on the motor, or rather, in the place where the generator was mounted.

It is worth undertaking such work only if you already have experience in servicing electricians and the power plant of the VAZ 2110. The power steering is directly related to safety, therefore, in the absence of experience, it is better to contact the masters.

There is a tax manual for replacing the power steering fluid!

REPAIR REPORT: racks with power steering.

I collected everything in the reverse order, after washing it in gasoline and wiping everything with a cloth soaked in it (but not one

), but I wrote above how to fill in the system.
Well, probably that's all. If something is not clear ask anyone interested. Sorry for the low-quality photos and incomprehensible (maybe for whom) explanations. I called some things in my own words, so I also ask you not to find fault, and also do not pay attention to the spelling 😀

.
And in general, guys, I tried my best. 😎
_________________
There was a Vaz-21114. it was a good barn.

Gloom
Chip 'n Dale type)))

P.S.
this.
cylinder through AND is spelled

_________________
Vases are everywhere, somewhere for flowers, and somewhere they go.

Gloom
Chip 'n Dale type)))

Gloom
Chip 'n Dale type)))

V! C I do not understand at the expense of the steering rack housing, is there a Belleville spring there? Take a look at the topic of replacing the Belleville spring washer from SS-20 and compare it with the power steering rail, did you find one https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/139/viewtopic.php?t=88696&postdays=0&postorder= asc & start = 30
The knocks on my car seem to me to come just from the crankcase of the rack on gravel at low speed.

I did not install the rack without an amplifier due to a mismatch in the dimensions of the steering housing or what other reasons?

Gloom
Chip 'n Dale type)))

foxbee wrote: Here I have such a knock right from the novya - especially on gravel and similar surfaces.

so maybe all the same kardanchik? _________________

HERE DID SOMETHING, READ.
This manual establishes the sequence of installation of steering mechanisms and power steering systems, VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 cars and their modifications.

1 PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS BEFORE INSTALLING THE STEERING GEARS ON THE VEHICLE BODY.

1.1 Dismantle the screen of the protective cover of the steering rack 2110-3403086.
1.2 Dismantle the steering box 2110-3400010.
1.3 Remove the pressure plate 2110-3401208 and the gasket 2110-3401206.
1.4 Remove the steering column.
1.5 Sub-assembly of the steering mechanism 2110-3400010-30.
1.5.1 Remove the steering rods from the removed steering gear 2110-3400010 and install them on the steering gear 2110-3400010-30. Tighten the steering linkage bolts with a torque of 95 ± 10 N • m.
1.5.2 On the steering gear 2110-3400010-30, install the high-pressure pipe 2110-3408080, sealing washers 2 and a union-bolt 1 (М14х1.5). Tighten the union bolt with a torque of 25 ... 27.6 N • m. Install the low pressure pipe 2110-3408040, sealing washers 4 and bolt-3 (M16x1.5). Tighten the union bolt with a torque of 35 ... 38.5 N • m, see Figure 1.
1.5.3 Install supports 2110-3403080, 2110-3403082 and brackets 2108-3403020-10 on the steering gear 2110-3400010-30.
1.5.4 By rotating the distributor shaft, align the marks B on the distributor body and on the gear boot in the middle position of the rack, see Figure 1.
1.6 Sub-assembly of the steering column
1.6.1 Dismantle intermediate shaft 2110-3401092-10.
1.6.2 Install a new intermediate shaft 2110-3401092-20 M8 tie bolt with washer and nut. Tighten the nut with a torque of 22.5 ... 27.4 Nm.

2 PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS ON THE ENGINE

3 INSTALLATION OF THE STEERING GEAR ON THE CAR BODY.

4 INSTALLATION OF THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM.

4.8 Attention. Never start the engine when the hydraulic system is not filled with oil.

5 HYDRAULIC STEERING OIL FILLING.

5.1 Remove the oil tank cap 2110-3410054 see figure 17.
5.2 Turn the front wheels to the right until they stop.
5.3 Pour oil into the tank up to the lower edge of the filler neck.
5.4 Turn the front wheels from the right extreme position to the left extreme position three four times. Then set them to the middle position.
5.6 Check the oil level in the tank and, if necessary, add oil to the tank up to the “MAX” mark on the dipstick.
5.7 Fill the system with one type of oil from the oil specification in Appendix 1.

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Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

In urban environments, it is often necessary to perform numerous parking maneuvers. The rather light steering of the VAZ 2112 in such cases becomes much heavier.You have to make more effort to turn the wheels of a car standing still. The better their grip, the more difficult it is to maneuver. Therefore, the VAZ 2112 power steering will come in handy.

VAZ 2112 cars coming off the factory conveyor do not contain power steering. This fact may indicate that the machine simply does not need such a device. However, on sale you can find and independently install the power steering. Before buying something, wasting time and effort, it will be advisable to weigh all the facts.

Aspects indicating the need to install this device are as follows:

Facilitation of parking;
Reduced effort on long bends;
Improving ease of handling on the road.

As you can see from the list, there are few arguments. But for some drivers, they are very compelling.

The power steering VAZ 2112 has its main task to reduce the effort when turning the wheels. In winter, when the surface is slippery, turning the wheel of a stationary car is quite easy. But if you imagine that under the car there is asphalt with protruding small stones biting into the tire, then you have to make a lot of effort to perform the desired maneuver.

At such times, it is best to start turning the wheels as soon as you start driving, as this helps to reduce the load on the steering gear. If the parking process causes a lot of inconvenience to the driver, then it is worth thinking about installing a power steering. This is often the case for female drivers.

Moving along a straight trajectory and a flat surface, the control of the VAZ 2112 does not cause much trouble. But when entering a sharp turn, changing the trajectory of the vehicle requires effort.

This is due to the fact that a centripetal acceleration acts on it, the vector of which is directed perpendicular to the machine. At times like this, the power steering will be very helpful.

Having analyzed the positive factors, the driver will immediately want to install an amplifier for himself. But besides the positive, there are also negative aspects. These include:

Repair costs;
Labor intensity of the installation process;
Changes to the body structure.

The power steering mechanism of the VAZ 2112 has significant drawbacks. The degree of their importance to the driver determines the further decision. The available aspects should be assessed as objectively as possible.Over time, any mechanism wears out and needs to be repaired. It is clear that an increase in the number of mechanisms inevitably leads to an increase in the cost of their maintenance and repair.When installing the amplifier, the following malfunctions may occur:

Loss of tightness of the system;

Breakage or loosening of the pump belt;

Distributor malfunction;

Destruction of rubber parts;

Clogged system.

Wear and breakdown of the working cylinder.

Depending on the malfunction, there is a need for certain purchases and associated costs. Not only cash costs, but also time will be needed in such situations.

Installing spoilers and body kits, painting a car - these are all elements of external tuning. But besides the exterior modernization of the car, there are also many ways to do the tuning from the inside. Therefore, a very important decision will be to install a power steering on the VAZ 2112.

An actuator and a special pump. As a rule, an actuator with a steering rack of a car. The designers of the VAZ 2112 do not install the power steering on the VAZ 2112, but they provided for its installation in the future. It should be borne in mind that after the purchase, you will need to go to the service and order the installation, because this will have a separate cost. But if you wish, you can do the installation yourself.

Before proceeding with the installation of the device, you need to check if the kit contains all the components of the device. There must be a pump, a special gearbox, a pulley, a hydraulic cylinder, hoses and a fluid expansion tank. It is necessary to install the pump mount, and then fix the pump itself well. After that, you will have to replace the crankshaft pulley, it will drive the power steering pump. The drive goes through the belt.

The next step is to replace the gearbox.

Before installing a new one, it is necessary to modify the regular place. You need to prepare the bipod, you may have to make a hole in the bulkhead. You also need to choose a place for the liquid tank, its plastic walls should not come into contact with the hot parts of the VAZ 2112 power unit.

The cylinder must be mounted in accordance with the attached instructions, which must be included in the kit, including the power steering on the VAZ 2112 and other related parts, since each manufacturer of spare parts has its own characteristics during installation that must be taken into account. After that, it remains to connect the high-pressure rubber hoses and tighten them tightly with clamps, which should also be included in the kit.

At the end of the installation, it is necessary to fill in a special fluid for the power steering and "pump over" the already assembled system.

The steering rack is designed to transfer power from the steering wheel to the steered front wheels of the vehicle.

Its design consists of the rail itself, which is a steel bar with notched teeth, a metal body, as well as additional elements in the form of bearings, bushings, seals, anthers, etc.

The rack is driven by the teeth of the steering shaft drive gear, which, while turning, moves the rack to the left or right.

The steering rods are attached to the rail, which, in fact, make the wheels turn in one direction or another.

The steering rack is located in the engine compartment on the back of the engine and is attached to the lower part of the engine compartment and passenger compartment bulkhead.

With the exception of the latest versions, equipped with an electric booster, "dozens" of power steering devices were not completed.

Like any other mechanical structure, the steering rack, due to certain circumstances, can show signs of malfunction. These include:

crunch (knock) when turning the steering wheel;
"Tight" steering wheel;
increased backlash of the steering wheel or steering shaft drive gear;
vibration of the steering shaft when driving;
uneven tire wear caused by a misalignment of the front wheel alignment.

The listed symptoms indicate that it is time to repair or replace the steering rack. However, do not rush to replace it. The rail itself is made of durable steel, and it is not so easy to disable it. Most often, auxiliary structural elements become unusable:

support sleeve;
drive gear bearings (ball and needle);
seals;
anthers, etc.

There can be any number of reasons for the failure of these parts, from the consumed resource to mechanical damage due to off-road driving. If you are sure that the rail itself will not have to be changed, you can get by with a minor repair of the steering structure, which consists in replacing the listed "consumables".

Having decided to repair the steering rack at a service station, expect that you will have to pay about 300 rubles for the simplest repair kit. A complete set, including bearings, will cost about 500-700 rubles. The entire filling, together with the rail, will cost 1,500 rubles.It is advisable to know the marking of the rail before buying a repair kit, since they may differ depending on the configuration and the year of manufacture of the "dozens".The cost of repair work, depending on the service station, will be 1000-1500 rubles. If you do not want to overpay for the work, you can repair the rail on your own.

Unscrew the rack retaining nut (octagonal special key for 17), remove it from the body.

Remove the rubber plug from it. Use a screwdriver to remove the retaining ring and spring.

Lightly hitting the steering housing on a wooden block, knock out the rack stop (piston) and remove it together with the seal.

Remove the boot and drive gear seal (slotted screwdriver).

Remove the lock washer (slotted screwdriver).

Unscrew the nut securing the drive gear bearing (octagonal special key for 24 with a central hole with a diameter of at least 18.5 mm).

Remove the rack drive gear with bearing from the housing.

Remove the rail from the housing.

Pull the support bush out of the housing by prying it off with a slotted screwdriver.

Remove the circlip from the drive gear shaft. Check the bearing for play. If present, use a bearing puller to remove the ball bearing from the shaft. Install a new one in its place in the same way.

Remove the needle bearing from the housing by drilling two holes with a thin drill (2 mm) from the back of the housing and knocking it out with a thin rod. Seal the holes formed with “cold welding” or “fast steel”. As a last resort, the bearing can be broken with a narrow chisel (not recommended!).

Lubricate the seat liberally, install a new needle bearing in it, and press it in by lightly tapping on its housing.

Install a new support bush from the repair kit, cut its rubber O-rings, remove unnecessary fragments.

Fill the inner surface of the rack housing with a special grease (Fiol-1 or similar).

Insert the rail into the housing.

Reinstall the drive gear with bearing. Fix it with a nut, put a retaining ring. Place a new boot on the pinion shaft.

Replace the new stop with a new seal. Secure it with the circlip. Place a spring in its hole. Install the stop nut.

Adjust the rail by first tightening the thrust nut all the way and then loosening it 30 degrees. Plug the hole in the nut with a rubber plug.

Put on the boot on the rack housing and fix it with clamps.

Install the re-arranged structure on the vehicle.

Video (click to play).

At the end of the assembly, check for vertical play in the steering shaft. Drive carefully while evaluating the steering performance. Pay attention to extraneous noise in the area of the rail. If everything is ok, go to the workshop to adjust the camber-toe.