Hansa comfort 1000 DIY repair

In detail: hansa comfort 1000 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Units for washing linen differ in quality, manufacturability and functionality. But even such a machine has weak points, manifested by certain malfunctions caused by violations of operation, factory defects and other reasons.

The existing ability to automatically check for failures that occur during the operation of the machine displays problems in the form of an error code. He will tell you where to look for the problem and what to do in a similar situation.

Consumers hardly ever complain about the brand's washing machines, and for good reason. The models are not very common when compared with Indesit, Ariston, Samsung, they appeared on the Russian markets not so long ago, they have good quality. Even a pattern appears - if everyone has such models, then the repair of Hansa washing machines will become more frequent.

Today it is possible to talk about the most frequent failures of Hans washing machines, using rather scanty statistics provided by large repair service centers. After analyzing this information, we identified the vulnerabilities of machines from this manufacturer:

quite often the pump that is responsible for draining the water fails;
the filter and drain pipes are clogged;
the AQUA-Spray system breaks down;
short circuits occur in the temperature sensor;
the machine often "freezes" due to a voltage drop in the electrical network.

Very rarely, but there are problems with the electronic control and the system that protects against water leaks.

In certain situations, it is quite possible to eliminate the failure of the machine with your own hands.

Clogged filter, pump failure.

The first place in the rating of malfunctions of these machines belongs to the filter and hose clogged with debris. There is nothing strange in this, since such a reason really most often arises in automatic and semi-automatic washing machines. In such a situation, there is no need to call the wizard - you can fix everything yourself.

Video (click to play).

Cleaning the filter is an easy process that is detailed in the instruction manual. Removing the blockage in the hose will not cause difficulties, but you will have to tinker with its installation / dismantling. In order to unscrew the drain hose, you will have to climb into the unit body:

you need to unscrew the back panel;
find the connecting clamps for the hose and pump, release them;
disconnect the drain hose, rinse it, clean it with a cable;
connect and assemble in reverse order.

Remember that the hose should be cleaned, even for preventive purposes, once a year.

But the pump in a typewriter of this brand breaks down quite unusually:

the machine starts to hang from time to time, the water does not drain, but when a reboot is performed, then everything starts to work normally;
after a certain time freezes become more frequent, especially after washing with hot water. Restarting the program does not fix the problem, but when the water cools down, the machine continues to work normally;
such problems arise for a long time, then the washing machine completely stops draining the water.

What conclusions can be drawn from such symptoms? Most likely, the impeller on the pump has failed, it is necessary to carry out repairs. Such work is quite within the power of every consumer, if all the recommendations of professional specialists are followed exactly. The list of works is as follows:

first, the water is drained, for which it is necessary to unscrew the drain plug by placing a container under the machine;
the detergent tray is removed;
the washing machine turns over on its side;
the bottom is unscrewed, if any;
all wiring is disconnected from the pump;
the impeller is removed, the pump is checked for clogging;
a new impeller is being installed;
the wiring is connected, the fasteners are tightened, the machine is installed on the legs, connected to the communications and checked for serviceability.

Heating element failure.

Heating elements fail quite often. This can be caused by power surges. The element is damaged from a short circuit. In addition, due to the hardness of the water, scale forms on the heating element, it overheats and burns out.

It is possible to determine the breakdown of the heater by its external signs. If, after turning on the machine, the machine in the panel is de-energized, the fuse blows out - look for the problem in the heating element. The second sign is that things are poorly washed, there is a musty smell, since the water does not heat up.

To replace the heating element, you will have to remove the front wall and follow these steps:

at the base of the drum we find the heating element;
disconnect all wires;
we loosen the nut located in the center, push it inward, while squeezing the gasket;
we remove the heating element, install a new analogue in its place.

Failure of the Aqua-Spray system.

Often in such a machine there are problems in which they do not pump water into the tank, from which the washing process does not start, and the error code E 05 lights up on the screen.In this case, it is necessary to start the check from the inlet valve, since it is he who is responsible for pumping water ... Having removed the top panel, we check the valve, use a multimeter to measure the resistance values. If everything is in order, go to the AQUA-SPRAY system, which runs from the inlet valve to the tank. With its help, the water flows over the laundry with strong jets, from which stains are removed more efficiently. The disadvantage of the system is a complex and sometimes thin path for fluid supply, which can quickly become clogged with salts and metals in the water. What to do in such a situation?

find the path of this system near the inlet valve;
remove the plugs;
take a bottle of water, pour it into the tract, check how well it goes into the tank;
if a blockage is found, we clean the tract with a thin wire, pouring warm water into it from time to time. It will be nice if you first dissolve citric acid in it;
when the water begins to pass without interference, the machine can be assembled and a test run can be carried out.

Problems with the electrical network.

Most models of washing machines have a surge protection system. The protection is intended for the safety of the unit responsible for the control if a short circuit or other problems with the electrical occurs. Initially conceived well, but the quality of the work was not up to par.

The machine still retained its sensitivity to voltage surges in the Russian power grid. At its best, it stops the program of work or simply turns off. But only a specialist can restore her working capacity. In such situations, performing repair work on your own is strictly contraindicated. But you can avoid such troubles in the future by connecting the washing machine through a stabilizing device.

Such a problem can be recognized by the characteristic grinding sound that occurs during washing. It is difficult to replace bearings in a typewriter, but it is possible to do such work with your own hands:

unscrew the fasteners, remove the counterweights in front and on the sides;

disconnect the clamps holding the AQUA-SPRAY system path, move it away from the cuff;
unclench the harnesses, unscrew the mounting bolts, remove the electric motor;
loosening the clamps, remove the drain pipe;
dismantle the tank from the shock absorber elements, lay it on a flat surface.

Now you have to disassemble the tank itself:

unscrew the nuts, remove the pulley;

turn the tank over, unscrew the nuts around the entire perimeter;

remove the cover, push the bolt inward, take out the drum.

It remains to get the bearing and replace it. Now we assemble the unit in reverse order and check it in operation.

As a result, it should be noted that there are not so many weak points in the Hansa washing machine. But they are also capable of manifesting themselves as malfunctions at the most inopportune moment. In some situations, diagnosing such breakdowns is a rather difficult process, for this reason you will need the help of an experienced specialist from the service center.This washing machine was purchased at the end of 2005 in Technoshock. Hansa Comfort 1000 spins at a speed of up to 1000 rpm, respectively Comfort 800 - 800 rpm. If memory serves, there was also a model with a spinning speed of 1200 rpm.The error codes and the principle of repair are the same for the Comfort line. Therefore, below I will give a table with errors for Hansa washing machinesThe error can be caused by the following reasons:

the door is open;

damaged wire connections from the controller to the door lock;

the lock or limit switch is faulty

The error can be caused by the following reasons:

low water pressure;

partial blockage of water supply hoses or solenoid valves (also if they are faulty)

The error can be caused by the following reasons:

low pressure or lack of water in the water supply;

blockage of water supply hoses;

faulty water supply valve;

the water level sensor (pressure switch) is faulty;

the electronic controller is faulty or the wiring between it and the level sensor or valve is damaged;

blocking of the reset valve in the "off" position (in a washing machine with the Aqua Spray system)

The error can be caused by the following reasons:

partial blockage of the drain pump filter (also if it is faulty);

partial blockage of the drain hose

The error can be caused by the following reasons:

the drain pump is blocked or faulty;

complete blockage of the drain hose;

the pressure switch or its wiring is faulty;

blocking of the reset valve in the "on" position (in a washing machine with the Aqua Spray system)

The error can be caused by the following reasons:

one or more water inlet valves are blocked in the "open" position;

during the washing process, there was a significant increase in the water pressure in the water supply;

defective pressure switch

The error can be caused by the following reasons:

the drive motor (tachogenerator, thermal switch) is faulty;

loose wiring between the drive motor and the controller board

The error can be caused by the following reasons:

there was a leak of water into the pan of the washing machine, due to the depressurization of the tank, its connections or hoses;

faulty float sensor AQUA STOP

For 8 years of operation, there were no particular complaints. Errors that were E01 due to a not tightly closed door, E05 due to the fact that he forgot to open the riser with cold water, E03 periodically due to contamination of the drain filter and E07 due to water getting into the pan of the washing machine inside.It was the cause of error E07 that I eliminated in this photo report. The fact is that during periodic cleaning of the drain filter, it is necessary to drain off excess drains using a black hose in order to unscrew the lid. But since the hose is low enough, some of the effluent gets inside the machine. I have never had any depressurization of the tank.So, when turned on, the machine issues code 07.
On the spot. You don't have to disassemble the washing machine, just wait a couple of three days for the water in the pan to dry.To solve the problem, you need to remove the lower front cover, therefore the installed machine does not even need to be removed from the niche. It is necessary to unscrew only 2 self-tapping screws at the edges.Then you need to pull the bottom cover towards you. The groove from which you need to pull the front cover is marked in blue.Do not forget to take out the black hose marked with a blue arrow.View of the washing machine with the bottom cover removed.Julia wrote on 05/29/2018 [12:31]The machine gives errors:
P007, E321. There are no such codes anywhere in the manual and description! It erases and cuts itself and corks, can do it at the beginning and at the end! All the masters looked and said with 100% certainty that it was Ten! We replaced it, but the problem persists.Zoya wrote on 03/09/2018 [00:45]Hello!
Comfort 800. It collects water and immediately drains it. But if you turn off, or rearrange the program, next time it may work fineAlexander wrote on 12/04/2017 [17:06]Nansa gives error E 22 and E 21, how to fixIvan wrote on 09/13/2017 [01:14]In the beginning there was an error e07 how to fix it?Natalia wrote on 03/07/2017 [20:54]Hello! Does anyone have a faulty Hansa900 comfort clipper? Need a door from it. A neighbor tried to open the door and broke it. The machine generated error N7, but the “smart” neighbor continued to rape and try to open the washer. The result is that things go out in the machine for the 3rd day, the door is locked and broken so that it cannot be opened. Now just hack. Dmitry wrote on 03/05/2017 [15:45]Hansa optimum800 It draws water and turns off, the door lock indicator starts blinking and clicks are heard.Victor wrote on 03/02/2017 [23:58]Hello everyone! I would be grateful for your advice. Washing machine full size HANSA AWN 610 DR. The machine is new, in operation for 7 months. but purchased 1.5 years ago, so the warranty has passed. The cause of the malfunction is as follows, after 10-15 minutes. wash starts to squeak and stops, then scrolls 2-3 times and beeps again. + in addition, when you select a mode, the first mode is immediately remembered when you scroll the mode selection roller. The option is to set the desired mode, and then turn the plug into the socket. What could be the reason? Thank you all for your answer!Tolyan wrote on 01/20/2017 [12:39]Why isn't my washing machine picking up speed? Who can answer this question?Sergey answers:Does not gain momentum during spinning. There may be several reasons for this. The first is the uneven distribution of the laundry. In this case, the machine tries to balance and turns the drum in one direction or the other.
Another reason may lie in a malfunction of the triac of the drive motor.
It is also worth checking the condition of the brushes, perhaps they are almost worn out and require replacement.Natalia wrote on 12/19/2016 [18:12]how to assemble a hook to close the door at the hansa optima 800 washing machineAnna wrote on 09.10.2016 [16:53]Good day! After washing, there was water in the tank, everything was cleaned out of the filter, the water was knocked down. But it still gives an error E 01 and does not get cleaned. Help to solve the problem.To disassemble Hansa washing machines, you need the following tools: a Phillips screwdriver, a flat screwdriver, a 19 flat wrench, an 8/10 flat wrench, pliers for unclamping the clamps, wire cutters, pliers, as well as a special tool - a service hook (Fig. 1).Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws securing the cover to the case using a Phillips screwdriver (Fig. 2).Rice. 2. Removing the top cover fixing screwsAfter that, lifting the back part of the top cover with one hand, slide it back with the other hand and separate it from the body (Fig. 3).Rice. 3. Removing the top coverDismantle the control panel by removing the detergent dispenser hopper, and using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the control panel (Fig. 4).Rice. 4. Removing the control panel mounting screwsHolding the control panel with your right hand, slide the panel outward with your left hand and turn it almost 90 ° until the panel (on the right side) is disengaged from the fastening latch (Fig. 5 and 6).Rice. 5. Detaching the left side of the control panelRice. 6. Detaching the right side of the control panelIn this position, turn the control panel 180 ° parallel to the side wall of the washing machine and use the service hook to hang the panel on the side wall of the machine (Fig. 7).Rice. 7. Hanging the control panel on the side of the machineThe longer end of the hook goes into the opening in the detergent hopper and the shorter end hangs from the top edge of the side wall of the machine (fig. 8).Rice. eight. Using the service hook to hang the control panelDismantle the plinth panel, for which, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the plinth panel to the side walls of the machine, and then remove the panel (Fig. 9).Rice. 9. Removing the plinth panelThe panel can be pry off with any tool, taking precautions not to damage the paint layer.Having opened the door of the washing machine hatch, using a flat screwdriver, remove the clamp of the hatch seal (Fig. 10),Rice. 10. Removing the clamp securing the hatch door sealand then separate the hatch seal from. front panel (fig. 11).Rice. eleven. Separating the hatch door seal from the front panelRemove the front panel of the case, for which, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing the front panel to the side walls of the machine, and remove the panel together with the hatch (Fig. 12).Rice. 12. Removing the front panelDisconnect the wires from the door interlock (fig. 13).Rice. thirteen. Disconnecting the wires from the sunroof locking deviceUse pliers to loosen the spring clip on the tube connecting the Jet System control valve to the sunroof seal and remove the tube from the water injection fitting (figure 14).Rice. 14. Disconnecting the tube from the water injection connectionUsing pliers, loosen the spring clamp on the tube suitable for the level switch, remove the tube from the level switch fitting (Fig. 15),Rice. 15. Disconnecting the tube from the level switch fittingthen pull it out of the hatch door seal (Fig. 16).Rice. sixteen. Removing the tube from the manhole door sealTo dismantle the seal using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the fastening clamp (Fig. 17),Rice. 17. Removing the retaining clipthen, using a flat screwdriver, remove the clamp and separate the seal (Fig. 18).Rice. eighteen. Removing the hatch door sealThe installation of the seal is carried out in the reverse order.The seal should be put on in such a way that the triangular marker on it is on top and coincides with the same marker on the tank (fig. 19),Rice. nineteen. The location of the markers when installing the hatch door sealand the drain groove of the seal was located at the bottom.When installing the seal, the screw of the fastening clamp must be installed so that its head is at the level of the threaded nipple on the tank (Fig. 20).Rice. twenty. The location of the screw tightening the fastening clamp of the hatch sealUsing pliers, unhook the spring on which the tank is suspended (fig. 21).Rice. 21. Uncoupling the tank suspension springTurning the pulley, remove the belt from it (fig. 22).Rice. 22. Removing the drive beltThe belt is assembled in the reverse order. When putting on the belt, pay attention to the following: the belt must be put on the motor shaft so that one groove at the end of the shaft is free (Fig. 23 and 24).Rice. 23. Correct position of the belt on the motor shaftRice. 24. Incorrect position of the belt on the motor shaftRemove the top cover, tank suspension spring, drive belt.Using a 19 wrench, unscrew the nut securing the pulley (Fig. 25) and remove the pulley.Remove the basement panel. Remove the wires from the heating element terminals, unscrew the nut securing the heating element, and carefully remove the heating element (Fig. 26).Remove the top cover, plinth, and drive belt. Unscrew the two screws securing the electric motor (fig. 27),Rice. 27. Removing the screws holding the electric motorand remove the engine (fig. 28).Rice. 28. Removing the collector motorDisconnect the electrical connectors of the electric motor (fig. 29).Rice. 29. Disconnecting the electrical connectors of the electric motor Remove the basement panel. Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the screw that secures the drain pump (fig. 30).Rice. thirty. Unscrewing the screw that secures the drain pumpHaving loosened the clamps with pliers, disconnect the pipes from the pump (Fig. 30).Removing the wires from the pump terminals, remove the drain pump.Rice. 31. Disconnecting the pipes from the drain pump Remove the top cover. After opening the hatch door and holding the locking device with your hand from the inside, unscrew the two fastening screws.Having disconnected the wires from the terminals of the blocking device, remove the device.Remove the top cover. Remove the detergent hopper. Unscrew the screw securing the distributor from the control panel side (see fig. 4), and remove the distributor (fig. 32).Rice. 32. Removing the detergent drawerRemove tubes from the distributor fittings.To replace the distributor cover, separate it with a flat screwdriver (fig. 33).Rice. 33. Detergent dispenser lid compartmentOn the inside of the lid you can see holes through which water enters the compartments of the detergent hopper (fig. 34).Rice. 34. Holes in the lid of the detergent dispenser Remove the top cover, disconnect the electrical wires from the terminals of the anti-interference filter (Fig. 35).Rice. 35. Disconnecting the wires from the terminals of the anti-interference filterAfter unscrewing the two screws securing the filter (Fig. 36), remove the filter from the seats.Rice. 36. Removing the screws securing the anti-interference filter Having disconnected the washing machine from the electrical and water supply networks, remove the water inlet hose and the top cover. Disconnect the wires from the EK terminals (Fig. 37).Rice. 37. Disconnecting wires from the EK terminalsRemove the fixing clamps from the tubes suitable for the EC and remove the tubes from the EC fittings (Fig. 38).Rice. 38. Disconnecting tubes from fittings EKAfter unscrewing the screw securing the EC to the rear wall of the housing (Fig. 39), remove the EC.Rice. 39... Removing the screw securing the EC to the rear wall of the caseHaving opened the hatch door as much as possible, unscrew the two fastening screws and remove the door (fig. 40).Rice. 40. Removing the hatch doorAfter unscrewing ten screws holding the hatch door edging (Fig. 41), separate the inner and outer edging and remove the glass.Rice. 41. Removing the sunroof glass Removing and putting aside the inner bezel with glass, remove the latch mechanism and handle (Fig. 42).Rice. 42. Removing the hatch door latch mechanism Having separated the inner edging from the glass, remove the hinge axis and remove the hinge (Fig. 43).Rice. 43. Removing the hinge axis Having removed and put aside the inner edging with glass, the latch mechanism and the handle are removed (see. rice. 42). Remove the two pins and the handle spring (fig. 44).Rice. 44. Removing the hatch door handleHaving removed the plinth panel, disconnect the wires from the valve terminals and, removing the valve from the seat, disconnect three tubes that fit to it (Fig. 45).Rice. 45. Removing the Jet System Control Valve Remove the top cover, control panel, front and basement panels of the case.Remove the wires from the terminals of the EK, drain pump, heating element, control valve and electric motor. Unscrew the screws that secure the housing support bracket. Loosen the clamp securing the seal to the front panel and separate the seal from the front panel. Release the cable ties from the cable ties. Disconnect the tank suspension spring. Loosen the screws holding the body to the base of the machine and remove the body. Disconnect all pipes from the tank.Raise the tank in such a way as to separate it from the shock absorber rods, and fix the tank in a raised state. Remove the shock absorber from the rubber block at the base of the machine (fig. 46).Rice. 46. Removing the shock absorber from the rubber blockTo replace the rubber block, remove it from the shock absorber by prying it with a flat screwdriver (fig. 47).Rice. 47. Removing the rubber block Remove the top cover, control panel, front and basement panels of the case. Disconnect all pipes from the tank (fig. 48),Rice. 48. Disconnecting the pipes from the washing machine tankAfter unscrewing the mounting bolts, remove the front counterweight (fig. 49).Rice. 49. Removing the front counterweight Unscrew the 12 screws securing the front and back of the tank (fig. 50).Rice. 50. Removing the screws securing the front and back of the tankBy unscrewing the two screws holding the body to the base of the machine (fig. 51), slide the body back.Rice. 51. Removing the screws holding the housing to the base of the machineRemove the drive belt and, by unscrewing the fastening nut, remove the pulley. Remove the drum (fig. 52).Rice. 52. Removing the drumRemove the top cover, control panel, front and basement panels of the case.Remove the wires from the terminals of the EK, drain pump, heating element, control valve and electric motor. Unscrew the screws that secure the housing support bracket. Loosen the clamp securing the seal to the front panel and separate the seal from the front panel. Release the cable ties from the cable ties. Disconnect the tank suspension spring. Loosen the screws holding the body to the base of the machine and remove the body. Disconnect all pipes from the tank.Remove the motor and counterweights.Raise the tank up until it is separated from the shock absorber rods (Fig. 53).To replace the rubber bushings of the shock absorbers, the tank is raised until it is separated from the shock absorber rods, after which, using a flat screwdriver, the rubber bushings are removed (Fig. 54).Rice. 54. Removing the shock absorber rubber bushingRemove the top cover, control panel, front and basement panels of the case. Disconnect the wires from the heating element terminals and remove the heating element. Remove the front counterweight, detach the front of the tank.Having unscrewed two bolts, remove the heating element mounting bracket (Fig. 55).Rice. 55. Dismantling the heating element mounting bracketRemove the top cover. Remove the top counterweight by unscrewing the three mounting bolts.Remove the top cover, control panel, front and basement panels of the case. Remove the front counterweight by unscrewing the three mounting bolts.Remove the basement panel. Disconnect the drain pump and remove one of the pipes suitable for it. Remove the lower counterweight by unscrewing the three mounting bolts.Remove the top cover. Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the anti-interference filter. Remove the power cord block from the socket (fig. 56).Rice. 56. Replacing the power cordN (neutral) - blue wire;L (phase) - brown wire;(ground) - yellow-green wire.Remove the top cover, remove the hopper. Having wrung out the latch, at the same time push forward the front panel of the hopper (fig. 57). When reassembling, slide the panel from below until the latch clicks.Rice. 57. Replacing the front panel of the detergent hopper Remove the top cover, dismantle the level switch. After removing the retaining clip from the mounting bracket, replace the bracket (Fig. 58).Rice. 58. Replacing the mounting bracket Remove the top cover. Disconnect the power cord and wire harness. Remove the basement panel. Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element, electric motor, control valve and drain pump. Take out the detergent hopper. Loosen the fixing screws of the detergent dispenser. Unscrew the screws that secure the support bracket.Having loosened the fastening clamp, the hatch door seal is separated from the front panel of the case.After unscrewing the fastening screws of the front panel of the case, remove it. Remove the wires from the terminals of the sunroof locking device. Disconnect the tank suspension spring.Remove the screws that secure the case to the base. Separate the body (fig. 59). The shock absorbers with rubber blocks are removed.Rice. 59. Dismantling the baseThe article was prepared based on the materials of the "Repair & Service" magazineSelf-repairing equipment without the appropriate knowledge and experience may be more expensive than contacting a specialist. We recommend professional repair of Hansa washing machines in Moscow.Hans' washing machines are not yet as popular as other brands. However, both users and service centers managed to notice typical AGR malfunctions.After reading the article, you will learn how to determine the cause of the breakdown by the error code on the screen, how to repair the Hansa washing machine with your own hands.To better understand where to look for a problem, you need to know the meaning of the error code that is issued by the self-diagnostic system. Thanks to this function, you can quickly determine which part of the machine is out of order. The table below shows the error codes of the Hansa clippers.Let's consider typical malfunctions, as well as self-repair options for popular AGR models: Hansa Aqua Spray (Hansa Aqua Spray), Hansa Dynamic System, Hansa Comfort, Hansa Optimum (Hansa Optima).A clogged drain, filter or pump can cause poor water drainage. It is recommended to clean them to prevent breakdowns. But if you have already noticed a malfunction, then do this:

Disconnect the washing machine from the mains, turn off the water.

Having disconnected the CM from the communications, remove the top panel by unscrewing the bolts.

Open the hatch door.

Remove the metal clamp by bending the collar.

Place the collar inside the tank.

Take out the dispensing tray, unscrew the bolts behind it.

Remove the drain filter flap.

Substitute a container and drain the remaining water by unscrewing the filter. Check it immediately for blockage.

Remove the screws that secure the front panel.

Unplug the locking device connections, remove the panel.

Loosen the pipe and hose clamps. At the same time, inspect the pipe for blockage.

Loosen the pump connections, unscrew the fastening bolts.

Having taken out the pump, inspect it: it is possible that a thread or a piece of fabric is wrapped around the impeller. Installation of the pump for the Hans washing machine is carried out in the reverse order. This simple repair, it is quite possible to do it yourself.

The heating element in Hans' washing machines often fails. This can happen due to sudden voltage fluctuations in the network. As a result, a short circuit occurs and the element breaks.

Hard, low-quality water causes scale formation. Because of this, the heating element overheats and burns out.

It is possible to understand that the heating element is faulty by external signs. If you notice that when you turn on the SM, the machine in the dashboard turns off, or the fuse burns out, the reason may be in the heater.

Another sign - the laundry is poorly cleaned, a musty smell is felt, since the water is not heated.

The front panel must be removed to replace the heater. How to do this, see above, in the disassembly diagram of the Hansa washing machine.

Always unplug the machine before starting work!

We carry out repairs with our own hands:

The heating element is located at the base of the drum.
Unclip all wires leading to the heater.
Loosen the center nut.
Push the nut inward by pushing out the gasket.
Now you can remove the heating element and install a new element.

The "Aqua Spray" function in the Hans washing machine allows you to use water more economically and wash your laundry more efficiently. Through a special nozzle located on top, pressurized water sprinkles the laundry, contributing to better removal of stains.

The disadvantage of the system is the narrow path through which water is supplied. If it becomes clogged, a malfunction occurs.

How to fix the situation yourself:

After removing the top cap, you will find the filler valve.
The system path is located next to the valve.
Remove the plugs.
Gently pour warm water into the hole. If the water does not drain well, then the system is clogged.
Using a thin wire, clear the path by gradually pouring in water.

Have you noticed that the water is leaving quickly? You did it with your own hands to fix the malfunction.

The modern electronic system of washing machines does not always withstand voltage fluctuations. The control module is protected from malfunction by a noise filter, which serves as a stabilizer. In the event of a power surge, he takes the entire "blow" on himself.

But it happens that the filter burns out. Then Hans's washing machine may not turn on and needs a replacement.

After removing the top cover, you will see a filter in the upper right corner.
After unscrewing the fixing bolts, move the wires from the damaged filter to the new one.
Secure it in place.

It is more difficult if the control module is faulty: an electrical circuit is needed to repair it. But in the event of a breakdown, it is better to contact the service center.

Bearing problems can be recognized by the characteristic grinding, noise and rattling sound of the machine.

Replacing bearings in a Hansa washing machine is considered a difficult repair. But if you want, you can do it.

Remove the top and front panels as described above.
After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the side and front counterweight.
Remove the clamps of the Aqua Spray system. Detach it from the cuff.
Release all harnesses by unscrewing the bolts, remove the engine.
Remove the drain pipe by removing the clamps.
Remove the tank from the shock absorbers and place it on a flat surface.

Unscrew the nut and remove the pulley.
Turn the tank over and loosen the nuts around the perimeter.
After removing the cover, push the bolt inward and pull out the drum.
Now remove the bearing from the tank. Replace bearings on Hans' washing machine.