Hyundai accent DIY front suspension repair

Details: Hyundai Accent DIY front suspension repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The front wheel suspension is independent, of the "swinging candle" type, with a telescopic hydraulic shock-absorber strut and a wishbone arm. The right and left suspension arms are interconnected by a stabilizer bar.

The telescopic rack contains: a coil spring, an upper support spring cup with a rubber damping gasket, an upper rack support with a bearing and a compression stroke buffer with a protective casing. A steering knuckle is attached to the shock absorber strut with two bolts.

The upper strut support is attached to the body with three nuts. Due to its elasticity, the support allows the rack to swing during suspension travel and dampens high-frequency vibrations. The bearing pressed into the support allows the shock absorber strut to rotate with the steering wheel.

A telescopic hydraulic shock absorber is installed in the shock absorber housing. The lower part of the steering knuckle is connected to the front suspension arm through a ball joint pressed into the arm. Anti-roll bar - spring steel bar. The ends of the stabilizer are connected to the suspension arms through struts with ball joints. The middle part of the stabilizer is attached to the body with two brackets through rubber pads. A double-row angular contact ball bearing of a closed type is pressed into the steering knuckle and secured with a retaining ring. The wheel hub is installed in the inner bearing rings with an interference fit. The bearing is tightened with a nut on the thread of the shank of the housing of the outer hinge of the wheel drive and is not adjusted in operation.

Video (click to play).

Accent suspension device

Hyundai Accent is a fairly reliable Korean car, the chassis of which requires periodic maintenance of the chassis. How to repair the rear suspension of the Accent with our own hands, we will understand in detail the device and the suspension scheme.

One of the most recognizable vehicles in the lineup is the Hyundai Accent. The model first appeared in 1994, and it has firmly taken its place among family cars. This was facilitated by a high level of comfort, good technical characteristics and reliability along with an affordable price. The Accent's suspension is quite stiff, but it firmly endures all the bumps and irregularities on Russian roads. The rear suspension of this car suffers more than the front, which is due to its design features.

It is a mistake to believe that the rear axle of the chassis has less influence on the behavior of the Hyundai Accent on the road, compared to the front. Rocking the car at high speeds, maintaining directional stability and the comfort of passengers in the rear seats - these are the functions

tions that are assigned to the rear suspension.

The rear suspension of the Hyundai Accent is independent, that is, each wheel is supported by hydraulic shock absorbers. Also, the design has longitudinal and transverse levers. To improve the directional stability of the machine, the designers have provided an anti-roll bar. The rear suspension strut is compact and the shock absorber is in the spring.

In addition, there is a compression travel stop in the form of a protective buffer. The support leg is not only a housing for the hydraulic support, but also has a fist through which, due to the silent block, the trailing arm is attached to the support. The support strut itself is kept on the body by a support bracket, and the shock absorber rod is reliably protected by rubber covers.

You can feel that the rear suspension of the Hyundai Accent does not work as it originally did, while on the move.This is especially noticeable by the occurrence of longitudinal swing on irregularities and waves on country roads, and also knocks and other extraneous sounds appear additionally.

Sport struts with springs

Never delay the suspension diagnosis, otherwise you will not be able to avoid additional maintenance and repair costs. The main malfunctions that may require DIY Accent rear suspension repair include:

The wear of the arm bushings can be diagnosed by the occurrence of knocking in the rear suspension and deviations from a straight path in motion.
The wear of the shock absorber strut is determined by the appearance of oil leaks and body swaying.
Loss of stiffness of the rear springs. This fault causes the machine to sag, and severe impacts on uneven roads can cause the spring to break.
Worn or mechanical damage to the anti-roll bar.

Sometimes it is necessary to disassemble the rear suspension of the Hyundai Accent for other work, including replacing the wheel bearing, servicing the brakes or the fuel system.

To replace shock absorbers on the Accent, you need to stock up on the necessary tools and take care of safety by immobilizing the car. When replacing struts, secure the car well on the site and proceed with the following steps:

Provide easy access to the top of the pillar from the passenger compartment.
Remove the wheel.
Disconnect the strut stem attachment using a 17 and 19 open-end wrench, and you will also need a 6 wrench to keep the stem from turning.
Release the shock absorber from its attachment to the strut (use a 17 wrench).
Loosen the 3 nuts with a 12 wrench that hold the top end of the rack.
Remove the wheel rotation sensor.
Remove the suspension strut by lowering it down.

Dismantling the Hyundai Accent spring must be performed using a special vice and a suitable compression device. When you remove the spring, assess its condition: it should be free of cracks, corrosion, signs of subsidence and deformation.

You will then be able to remove the protective rubber elements, which are subsequently checked for mechanical damage. After removing the stand, check the surface to make sure it is free of oil spills. Check the mirror surface of the stem, smoothness of movement, evaluate the uniformity and stiffness of the movement. If there are deviations, replace the shock absorbers with a Hyundai Accent with your own hands.

When replacing shock absorbers, keep in mind that they are always replaced in pairs. If you change just one rack, it will not be able to fully develop its resource due to the worn out other. Also, shock absorbers should be selected with the same stiffness and always from the same manufacturer. A half installation will incur additional costs due to increased rubber wear and rapid wear on other parts of the Accent's rear undercarriage.

Regardless of the change in generations of the car, shock absorbers have always remained the same, so problems with their selection never arise. Be sure to bleed the racks before installing them to remove excess air from the cavities and adjust the operation of the bypass valves.

Work on the installation of shock absorbers on the Hyundai Accent is performed in the reverse order. If you need to remove the trailing arm of the rear suspension, the machine will need to be installed over a pit or raised on a lift, and then the following steps are performed:

with a 12 key, unscrew the bracket for the parking brake cable;
using two ring spanners 17, unscrew the bolt holding the lever and remove the bolt;
unscrew the lever attachment to the knuckle and release it.

Then you can install the racks in place and collect everything that was disassembled earlier.

The process of replacing the rear suspension bushings of the Hyundai Accent with your own hands is carried out after removing the lever.When reassembling, remember that the vehicle has angles for the rear wheels, so mark the position of the adjusting bolt before disassembling to avoid fine adjustment. Also keep in mind when replacing levers that the left and right are different from each other.

When removing the wishbones, first unscrew the adjusting bolt by unscrewing the adjusting washer with an eccentric. The second end of the lever is also dismantled by unscrewing the bolt with a 19 and 17 wrench. The transverse levers are also different, so take this into account when installing them and do not confuse the left with the right or vice versa. When replacing the anti-roll bar, drive the vehicle onto a lift or overpass. The work is performed according to simple instructions:

release the lower cushion of the shock absorber;
with a 17-inch head, unscrew the nut that holds the stabilizer on the rack, as well as the fastening of the rack hinge to the stabilizer bar;
dismantle the stabilizer post.

A key criterion for normal operation of the anti-roll bar is the moment of force that occurs when you try to roll the ball joint pin. If the value exceeds 1.7-3.2 Nm, the stabilizer link must be replaced. There should be no play in the ball joint.

It is imperative to assess the condition of the protective hinge covers. When installing an old stabilizer, it is sometimes necessary to replace or add grease. Do not forget that the final tightening of the connections is best done after lowering the car, that is, so that the suspension is loaded.

Carefully assess the condition of rubber seals, covers and bushings, and replace them if necessary. With high-quality and timely repairs, the Accent's rear suspension will serve you for a long time. For example, silent blocks, even when driving on bad roads, go more than 20 thousand kilometers, and the struts can easily withstand 70 thousand kilometers.

Before repairing the rear suspension of a Hyundai Accent with your own hands, it is important to consider that in addition to the above works, others may be required. For this, special tools, spare parts and accessories will come in handy. To facilitate the separation of rusted threaded connections, prepare a brush with metal bristles and VD-40 fluid or brake fluid.

Many elements of the front wheel suspension can be independently removed and reinstalled.For certain work, you still need tools from the workshop. In no case should the damaged parts of the suspension be straightened, let alone welded, they must be fundamentally replaced with new ones.

Removing the front suspension strut

Removing the shock absorber at the top. After removing the cover (1), you can loosen the suspension strut mounting nut using a spanner wrench (3). To do this, hold the shock absorber rod with an Allen key (2).

Removing the shock absorber at the bottom. Shown are the stabilizer link bolts (1) and the wheel bearing housing bolts (2 and 3).

When removing the shock absorber, you should take into account: if you disconnect it from the wheel bearing housing, you will have to re-adjust the wheel alignment angles, which is possible only on a measuring stand in the workshop.

For this reason, we describe here the removal of the shock absorber strut together with the wheel bearing housing.

Another addition: to tighten the upper nut of the shock absorber strut, mechanics in the workshop use a VW 3078 socket wrench.

Purchase a new self-locking nut and a new swing arm clamping bolt.
With the vehicle standing on the ground, loosen the central securing bolt of the drive shaft in the wheel hub (center of the wheel).
Loosen the wheel bolts.
Raise the vehicle evenly at the front to avoid stress on the stabilizer bar. Secure the vehicle.
Remove the wheel.
Disconnect the stabilizer link from both suspension struts, press the stabilizer up.
Disconnect the disc brake caliper and secure it to the body with a wire - the brake line remains connected.
Disengage the track rod joint.
Remove the axle joint clamping bolt at the bottom of the suspension strut.
Pull the pivot pin out of the strut using a pry bar. This separates the strut and the wishbone. In this case, under no circumstances should the slot in the wheel bearing housing be widened, for example with a screwdriver.
Unscrew steering wheel and remove drive shaft from wheel hub.
Remove the cover from the shock absorber cup in the engine compartment.
Remove the nut of the suspension strut from the top of the rod. To do this, hold the stem with an Allen key.
While doing this, hold the shock absorber strut underneath.
Pull out suspension strut downwards and at the same time remove it completely from the drive shaft.
For installation, use new self-locking nuts and a new clamping bolt of the suspension joint.
Install the clamping bolt so that its head points forward in the direction of travel.
Tightening torques: nut of the upper fastening of the shock absorber strut: 60 N • m, nut of the track rod: 30 N • m, clamping bolt of the independent suspension joint: 50 N • m, connecting rod of the stabilizer on the shock absorber strut: 40 N • m.
If the same shock absorber strut is installed and the bolts connecting the wheel bearing housing and the shock strut remain clamped all the time, then there is no need to adjust the wheel alignment.

Elements of the front suspension strut and the sequence of their installation

1 - spring;
2 - spring plate;
3 - suspension strut bearing;
4 - buffer;

5 - protective casing;
6 - threaded cover:
7 - shock absorber;
8 - 10 - spacer, cover.

Audi 80 front wheel suspension at close range

1 - the body of the shock absorber;
2 - bolted connections of the shock absorber housing and the wheel bearing housing;
3 - wheel bearing housing;

4 - axial hinge;
5 - clamping bolt;
6 - the lower transverse suspension arm.

Left: Tie brackets are required to separate the spring from the shock absorber when the strut is removed.

Right: The illustration shows the suspension joint clamping bolt (1) with which the suspension joint (3) is attached to the wheel bearing housing. Further indicated: the fastening nuts (2) with which the suspension joint is connected to the lower wishbone.

Replacing the front shock absorber

To carry out this work (with the shock absorber removed), a device for tension (compression) of the spring is required. You will need at least two pullers, even better three. Without the use of a spring tensioner, the spline nut at the top of the shock absorber rod must not be loosened, because the spring is in a state of strong pre-tension. Otherwise, the components of the shock absorber strut will fly apart as in an explosion - there is a great risk of accidents!

In addition, the uncompressed spring can no longer be reinstalled. Spring tensioners are available at parts stores. Next, you need the following special tools: a VW 524 wrench to loosen the spline nut and a 40-201 A tool to loosen the screw cap above the shock absorber. If you don't have them, you will have to help yourself with a large pipe wrench.

Remove the suspension strut (see previous section).
Clamp the shock absorber strut through the wooden wedges at the height of the steering knuckle arm in a vice. Never pinch the cylindrical section, otherwise you will crush the shock strut.
Install the spring tensioner at the spring coils and compress it slightly.
To prevent the spring tensioner from slipping, cover these turns with adhesive tape, if necessary.
Now loosen the spline nut at the top of the suspension strut. Hold the shock absorber rod with a wrench.
Remove the spring together with the suspension strut bearing and additional parts.
Remove the screw cap at the top of the shock absorber.
Pull out the shock absorber.
The factory is fitted with liquid shock absorbers. In this case, you need to pour out the old fluid from the shock absorber (special waste!) And clean its stem.
Install a new shock absorber cartridge without fluid.
The installation sequence of the constituent elements is shown in the figure on the upper right. Next, note that the color coding of the springs indicates the bottom.
Tightening torques: threaded cover of the shock absorber cartridge: 150 N • m, slotted nut on the shock absorber rod: 50 N • m.

Removing the front wheel bearing

The wheel bearing with its outer ring is pressed into the housing, the wheel hub is pressed into the inner ring. Under no circumstances should a new wheel bearing be driven into its place with a hammer, otherwise you will "install" the next damage together with the bearing. Therefore, it is better to remove only the shock absorber itself and disconnect the brake disc, as well as the casing. And you must entrust the actual removal and installation of the bearing to the workshop, which has a repair press at its disposal.

Purchase a new self-locking nut and a new swing arm clamping bolt.
Raise the vehicle evenly at the front to avoid stress on the stabilizer bar. Secure the vehicle.
Remove the suspension joint clamping bolt at the very bottom of the suspension strut.
Use a pry bar to press out the independent suspension pivot pin at the shock absorber strut. In this case, under no circumstances should the slot in the wheel bearing housing be widened, for example with a screwdriver.
Mark the installation position of the pivot on the lower wishbone.
Unscrew the axle joint securing nuts at the bottom from the lower control arm. Remove the hinge.
When screwing on the axle joint, take into account the marks made when removing the mark; in this case, the adjustment of the wheel alignment angles will remain approximately the same.
Do not forget the shims for the fastening nuts.
Tightening torques: the nuts of the independent suspension joint must be tightened to a torque of 65 N • m, the nuts of the clamping bolt to a torque of 50 N • m.
Carry out wheel alignment in a workshop.

Removing the wishbone

All self-locking nuts will need to be replaced as well as the bolts connecting the wishbone supports to the axle beam.
The wishbone can be removed with or without the axle joint. Which bolts need to be loosened in one case or another, is described in the previous section.
Remove nuts for inner bushings for wishbone support.
If the inner bearings of the wishbone have already worn out, then before installing the lever it is better to immediately press in (in the workshop) new ones.
Installation: Fasten the wishbone from the outside to the wheel bearing housing or to the independent suspension pivot. You will find the tightening torques in the previous section.
Tighten the nuts for the inner bearings of the wishbone loosely at first. Tighten fully only when the vehicle is on its wheels. Otherwise, the wishbone bearings may become skewed.
Tightening torques for the nuts of the inner bearings of the wishbone: first
40 N • m, then turn another 1/4 turn (90 °).

The arrow points to the lower mounting bolt under the rear strut on front wheel drive models.

Top suspension strut mount on the rear axle for front-wheel drive models. The arrows point to the four strut mounting bolts, the number (1) indicates the strut itself.

DIY repair Hyundai accent

Hyundai Accent Front Suspension Repair

The front suspension of the Hyundai Accent is an independent type, with telescopic struts, which are attached to the body through the upper supports, which also contain the support bearing for the Hyundai Accent, it is the fulcrum of the shock absorber, like a silent block or a damper. The element compensates for friction during the rotation of the strut, when the car makes a turn, as well as perceives loads in the axial direction, softens them.
The front struts of Hyundai Accent II (before and after 2008) are prone to breakdowns primarily related to the quality of parts, assembly of units, road conditions, proper maintenance, and operation.
Upper Support Defective Symptoms:

Creak and knock in the area of the rack, during the operation of shock absorbers;
Crunch when turning;
Steering sensitivity to bumps on the road;
The shock absorber rod protrudes through the "support".

Frequent breakdown of the rack - destruction, malfunction, as a result - replacement of the support bearing Hyundai Accent, or the upper support assembly. This issue is discussed in this article. You will also get acquainted with information on how to choose a thrust bearing for Hyundai Accent (prices, article, manufacturers).

The front shock absorber strut Hyundai Accent includes other parts besides the support, so to make sure that the support bearing is damaged, check according to the instructions:

Remove the front wheel from the problem side;
Check the condition of the spring for cracks;
Assess the damage or oil leakage of the Hyundai Accent front shock absorber;
Next, open the hood, inspect the support cup by removing the protective cover (the rod should not protrude and lift the "support" up, see photo);
Ask your partner to turn the steering wheel, determine the source of the sound;
Now put the wheel back, rest your hand on the support cup, rock the car from bottom to top, knocks, as well as vibrations in the support bearing are not allowed.
The principle of diagnostics is shown in the video.

In order to properly replace the front strut support bearing on the Hyundai Accent, it is important to first familiarize yourself with the assembly of the unit. The diagram shows the main components of the Hyundai Accent front suspension from 1995 to the present.
Steering knuckles are attached to the bottom of the shock absorbers with two nuts (8), and two transverse steering levers are also attached to the rack, which are interconnected by a stabilizer bar.

The upper part of the pillar for cars before 2006 and after 2006 (I, II and III generations) are structurally different. Examine the top supports in the first diagram before 2006 and the second after 2006-2008. The bearings are designated by the number 53612 - they differ, the upper supports 53610 and 53610A, as can be seen in the drawing, also differ in design, but the replacement of the support bearing in both cases is performed in the same way.
The only thing to pay attention to is the selection of new parts for replacement. (read more below).

Image - Hyundai Accent DIY Front Suspension Repair

Prepare the tools according to the list:
- Jack;
- Ties for shock absorbers;
- Cap sockets with ratchet: 12, 17 (2 pcs), 19;
- Wooden block to knock out the bolts;
- Large screwdriver;
- Hammer.

Park the machine on a level surface with adequate lighting. Remove from the brakes, install chocks under the rear chassis. Next, loosen the wheel bolts, lift the car with a jack, then remove the wheel.

Locate the brake hose bracket located at the base of the strut. Unscrew the fasteners with a 12 mm head, remove the hose to the side.
Now we find the fasteners from the speed sensor wire, we also unscrew it.

Loosen the two 17 mm nuts that secure the strut to the steering knuckle. First you need to lubricate the threaded connections with WD-40 grease. After unscrewing the nuts, knock out the bolts with a hammer through a wooden block.

The lower fasteners have been unscrewed, now we take out the steering knuckle from the connection with the front pillar, as shown in the photo, a large screwdriver is suitable here.

It remains to unscrew the upper support with a support bearing inside. It is attached to the body with three bolts 12, twist them and remove the module.

After removing the stand to replace the support bearing, you must first remove the protective cover of the upper support.
Now compress the shock absorber spring with ties on both sides, 50% of the original length, this is enough to loosen the stem locknut. Unscrew the lock nut to the end, if necessary, tighten the tie by another 10-15%.

Having unscrewed the lock nut, we remove the upper "support" together with the support bearing. We also dismantle the upper support cup, protective cover, compression stroke buffer, spring. Make a visual inspection of the parts, replace if necessary.

Dismantling the front pillar with support for Hyundai Accent finished. Moving on to replacing the upper support

We put the cover on the rod, then the compressed spring, then the upper shock absorber plate. We mount the parts as shown in the diagrams.

Now we install a new support with a support bearing assembly.

We screw the lock nut onto the stem and tighten it all the way. Then we unclench the clamps, check the tightening torque of the nut (limit 40-55 N • m), with a torque wrench.
The assembled rack with a new support bearing is installed using the reverse technology. The replacement is now complete.

For the right choice of auto parts, you need to know the reviews of those who bought these models and installed them on their car.The table shows four Hyundai Accent front shock absorber mounts that have received positive reviews after purchase and during operation.

Factory catalog article (number) of products 54610 and 54610A.
The dimensions of the "support" for reference: 150x55x145 mm, weight - 0.76 g.
Look at the video to see how the "defensive midfielder" looks:

The ball Hyundai Accent is changing without much difficulty, if there is no damage to the silent blocks of the lever. The problem can arise when you remove the ball housing from the hole in the lever. All the work can be done in a variety of ways. Some motorists remove the hub completely, but this is fraught with consequences - it is necessary to adjust the camber. The hub is displaced from the rack, it is unlikely that it will be possible to install it in its original position.

To replace the boot or the entire ball valve on a Hyundai Accent, you will need the following tool:

A set of keys and heads.
Ball puller.
Rod end puller.
Jack.
WD-40 grease.
Pliers for removing circlips.

You also need to purchase the following replacement components:

Ball for Accent. Part number 54503-25A00, 54530-0U000. The price in stores is 450-600 rubles.
If the support is "alive", and there are cracks in the boot, then it is enough to change only them.
Litol-24 type grease.

A small amount of grease is usually supplied with a ball, but it is clearly not enough. Therefore, stock up on such trifles in advance. The cost of the boot is, of course, much lower. But immediately assess the condition of the suspension, you can replace the arm bushings in parallel.

The same supports are installed on the left and right, there are no differences in them. Repairs are carried out on both sides in the same way. It is not necessary to completely remove the ball valve to replace the boot. If the entire support changes, it is possible (but not necessary) to remove the lever. This is usually done if the retaining ring cannot be removed and is heavily soiled. Work procedure:

Remove the front wheel.
Remove the nut that secures the Hyundai ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Using a spudger (or better with a puller), remove the support pin.
Remove the tie rod end in the same way.
The lower arm will drop slightly, place a block of wood under it.
Remove the retaining ring. If only the boot changes, then at this point the repair is over. Replace it and collect the node. But if a complete replacement of the Hyundai Accent ball joint is required, follow on.
For convenience, the lower arm can be removed.
Apply a few hard blows to the ball housing to knock it out of the suspension arm.
Install a new item.
Put on the boot, drive grease under it.
Reassemble in reverse order.

Some kits are missing a nut. But you can go to any car store and buy nuts for fastening ball or suspension arms used in domestic classics for 5-10 rubles. The tightening torque of the nut is 60..72 N * m. This manual can be applied to both Korean-made Accent cars and TagAZ.
And a short video on the topic of the article:

The largest car manufacturer in South Korea is not only the leader in its own market, but also ranks 4th in the world in terms of the number of cars produced. Taking into account the limitedness of its own market, the company has always focused its cars on the capacious Russian market.

One of the most recognizable models of this company is the Hyundai Accent. First introduced in 1994, it has firmly established itself in the family car lineup. This was facilitated by the high comfort offered by the car, decent technical indicators, reliability in combination with a low cost.

The machine has a number of advantages, taking into account the possibility of operation in Russian conditions. The fairly stiff front and rear suspensions of the Hyundai Accent do a good job not only with any driving modes, but also firmly endure all the hardships of domestic roads. Along with a simple design, the car also received good maintainability, when the owner of the car easily copes with its maintenance on his own.

It is a mistake to assume that the rear wheel suspension has a slightly smaller effect on the vehicle's driving behavior than the front one.Rocking the car at high speeds, maintaining directional stability, ensuring comfort for rear passengers - this is not a complete list of those functions that the car's rear suspension performs. This detail on Hyundai Accent has received a widespread version.

The suspension is independent, where each of the wheels is mounted on hydraulic shock absorbers. In addition, the design uses one longitudinal and two transverse levers. Additionally, to increase the vehicle's directional stability, an anti-roll bar is used. The rear suspension strut itself has a compact design, where the shock absorber is installed inside the spring.

Additionally, there is a compression travel stop - a protective buffer. The support leg is not only a housing for a hydraulic shock absorber. In addition, there is a fist through which the trailing arm is attached to the rack by means of a silent block. The support strut itself is attached to the body through a support bracket, while the shock absorber rod is protected by rubber covers.

You can feel that the suspension of your car is no longer working with full dedication, even on a moving car. This becomes noticeable by the longitudinal swing on the road waves of a suburban highway, if there is a knock in the rear suspension or other extraneous sounds.

But it is not worth delaying with a full diagnosis of the suspension, otherwise it can lead to additional costs for its repair and maintenance. Among the main malfunctions that will require intervention are the following.

Wear of the arm bushings. The manifestation of such a malfunction is usually expressed in the fact that the rear suspension knocks and there is a deviation from a straight path in motion.
Failure of the shock absorber, which can be understood by the oil leaks from it and the swinging of the car body.
Loss of the spring of the C-pillar of its rigidity. Such a malfunction is manifested by the subsidence of the car. Severe impacts on irregularities can cause the spring to break.
Worn or damaged anti-roll bar.

Disassembly of the rear suspension may also be required for other work. For example, replacing the rear hub bearing, servicing the brake system, servicing the fuel system, and other types of work.

Before starting work, you need to prepare the necessary tools and take care of the safety of work, completely immobilizing the car. When replacing the shock absorber strut, it must be securely fixed on a level surface, and the work itself is carried out in this sequence.

Provide access to the upper end of the pillar from the passenger compartment.
Remove the rear wheel.
Disconnect the shock absorber rod mount. Here you need an open-end wrench for 19 and 17 and a key to keep the stem from turning by 6.
Release the shock absorber from its attachment to the strut with a 17 key.
Loosen the three nuts with a 12 spanner for the upper strut mount.
Remove the wheel rotation sensor.
Remove the complete suspension strut by lowering it.

Removal of the shock absorber spring must be carried out using a joiner's vise and a suitable spring compression device. When the spring is removed, its condition should be assessed. There should be no signs of corrosion, cracks, signs of deformation or subsidence.

Now it becomes possible to remove all protective rubber parts, which must be checked for damage. After removing the shock absorber, its surface should be assessed for oil leaks. Check the condition of the mirror surface of the rod, the smoothness of its movement, evaluate the tightness and uniformity of the exit and entry. If deviations from normal operation are observed, they are replaced.

When replacing a shock absorber, it must be borne in mind that if it is necessary to replace one of them, they acquire a pair.Replacing one shock absorber for the rear suspension will prevent each shock absorber from reaching its end of life. In addition, shock absorbers of the same stiffness and from the same manufacturer are selected. A half installation can incur additional costs when increased rubber wear begins or other suspension parts quickly fail.

It should be borne in mind that, despite the change of generations, the shock absorbers for this model have not changed. Therefore, problems with their choice for Hyundai Accent usually do not arise. Before installing a new shock absorber, it is recommended to bleed it a little. This will remove excess air from the cavities, adjust the operation of the bypass valves.

Work on the installation of the shock absorber is carried out in the reverse order. If it is necessary to remove the rear suspension trailing arm of the Hyundai Accent, the car will need to be installed on a lift or above the inspection pit. Further work is carried out in the following sequence:

with a 12 key, release the handbrake cable holder;
with two ring wrenches on 17 we unscrew the bolt securing the lever and remove the bolt, while helping with a "soft" punch;
unscrew the fastening of the lever to the fist and release the lever.

We carry out work on replacing the bushings on the removed lever. When reinstalling, it must be remembered that the corners for the rear wheels are set on the Hyundai Accent, therefore, in order not to resort to fine adjustment, it is worthwhile to outline the position of the adjusting bolt before removal. It is also necessary to take into account when replacing the levers themselves that the right and left are not interchangeable.

When removing the wishbones, first dismantle the adjusting bolt by unscrewing the adjusting washer with an eccentric. The second end of the lever is also dismantled by unscrewing the bolt with a 19 wrench, using a 17 wrench.

The cross levers are also not interchangeable, so this feature must be taken into account when reinstalling. When replacing the anti-roll bar, the machine must be installed on a lift or brought to an overpass. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

release the lower rack cushion;
unscrew the nut of fastening the stabilizer to the rack and fastening the hinge of the rack to the bar of the stabilizer itself with the head 17;
dismantle the stabilizer post.

The main criterion for the correct operation of the anti-roll bar is the moment of force that occurs when you try to turn the ball joint pin. If this value exceeds the limit of 1.7-3.2 Nm, then the stabilizer link must be replaced. The ball joint must not have any backlash.

Attention should also be paid to the condition of the protective covers of the hinge itself. If an old stabilizer is installed, it may need to be replaced or some lubricant added. It should not be forgotten that the final tightening of all detachable connections is best done after setting the car on the wheels, that is, under load.

All rubber gaskets, bushings and covers are carefully evaluated and, if necessary, replaced. In the case of high-quality repairs, the rear suspension of the Hyundai Accent can last at least 20 thousand km for the silent blocks of the levers, and the shock absorbers can easily withstand at least 50 thousand kilometers.

Before carrying out work on the repair of the rear suspension, it should be noted that, in addition to those already listed, other tools, parts and means may be required. So, when pressing in rubber bushings, you will need not only a hammer, but also a soap solution. Disconnecting and connecting threaded connections will require brushes with metal bristles, as well as the use of WD-40 fluid.

Video (click to play).

Suspension malfunctions are not a type of car malfunction, when the failure occurs instantly and there is no way to continue the intended trip. However, it is not worth delaying the timely repair.Operating a machine with an incipient malfunction can lead to associated malfunctions, and then more expensive repairs.