Hyundai stareks fuel pump do-it-yourself repair

Club forum for owners of minibuses HYUNDAI STAREX, H-1, GRAND STAREX

Message: №1 WildWasherman »02 Feb 2016, 11:06

Message: №2 fsm-service »02 Feb 2016, 11:21

Message: №3 Leningrader »02 Feb 2016, 11:24

Message: №4 ArtBug »02 Feb 2016, 11:33

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Message: №5 NIK1966 »02 Feb 2016, 11:58

Message: №6 WildWasherman »02 Feb 2016, 12:27

Message: №7 Leningrader »02 Feb 2016, 12:35

Message: №8 stareks »02 Feb 2016, 13:11

Message: №9 WildWasherman »02 Feb 2016, 13:50

Message: №10 ArtBug "02 Feb 2016, 14:17

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Best regards from Art

if anyone needs an inflatable boat or an inflatable crap (up to development and design) - contact

Inflatable products of any size, caliber, style and for every taste at bargain prices from ME

Message: №11 Leningrader »02 Feb 2016, 15:26

Message: №12 WildWasherman »02 Feb 2016, 16:45

Video. Questions / Answers. Auto rates. High pressure fuel pump device. for the repair of Hyundai H - 1 I. Elshema for Hyundai Stareks gv. diesel - 1 answer.

Below in the video you can see the air in the fuel system of the Hyundai H 1 (Starex) 2,5TD (D4BF engine). It goes without saying that it is necessary to check all connections of the low pressure fuel line, that is, everything up to the injection pump.

In the depths of the tundra, otters in gaiters are digging the Internet cedar kernels into buckets of an interesting training video on the device of a distribution injection pump. everything is told and shown in great detail.

Another capillary is also possible. At lower revs, everything was fine. If there was a dirty antifreeze, the regulator could get clogged with dirt. Mechanical injection pumps can be found on old models of almost any manufacturer. They say it's not worse if you use it periodically.

Maybe someone will also come in handy. All injection pump adjustments are interconnected. What to do with disgrace. The injection pump controls not only the fuel supply, but also the injection advance angle. At what in all modes and at all temperatures. Therefore, by adjusting one, you can violate everything else. But it happens that the work of the injection pump is satisfied and you just need to slightly correct something. If you approach this correctly and carefully, then you can do something yourself. And not so little. It happens in the outback and you will not find a specialist.

And I really don't want to go for many kilometers. And it's okay if I start turning the screws myself. THE MAIN THING IS TO REMEMBER HOW MUCH TURNS AND WHICH SCREW IN WHICH SIDE WE TURN. So that you can turn everything back. We twist the screws with a good screwdriver so that they do not fall off. We remember the position of the screw, or better write it down to a fraction of a turn. We twist only what we have an idea of ​​what it is and why we twist.

If the adjustment is not satisfactory, we return everything back. In this case, the risk of misalignment is minimal. The main risk is that we get confused by how many revolutions we turned. Twisted - do not be lazy write down.

Problems may begin in winter due to knocked down regulations or in summer. Collected and collect information all over the Internet. The topic was created to hear your opinions, additions and comments.

I think that over time, a good instruction should come out of this post if you help. We climb into the fuel equipment quite rarely. Correct, maybe you wrote something wrong. View from the side of the left wing: View from the side of the windshield: You need to start doing something with the injection pump by flushing it. Here are the links for flushing the injection pump. If the tank and in general the entire fuel system is clean enough, flushing can be omitted, but periodically add a nozzle cleaner directly to the tank.

They say it's not worse if you use it periodically. If the tank and the pipes are full of dirt, we will clog the nozzles nafig. And no filter will help. Before getting upset about the poor performance of the injection pump, you need to pay attention to the EGR valve.

The valve bypasses part of the exhaust gases to the suction. About whether or not he should have written enough. But you need to try to turn it off - sometimes the engine is fully restored and you don't need to touch the high-pressure fuel pump. Well, then everyone decides for himself to ride with or without him. I muted it, and then deleted it altogether. Also, with a worn out engine, we try to disconnect the crankcase ventilation pipe from the suction.

Close the suction hole with a plug. Sometimes after that the engine is not recognized. Further it is recommended to do the following: Do not lose 2 copper rings.

Although it is better to replace them with new ones. The bolt is on the fuel drain. It has a tiny little hole on the side. To prevent debris from getting into it, a mesh is installed in the bolt. In kerosene from the mesh with a brush, wash out the debris. Idle speed adjustment screw 1.

Diesel operator, namely Comrade Barmaley, at my request, strangled the supply of diesel fuel to the injection pump ... This did not affect the flow rate, but the Insect stopped driving from the word "completely" ...

The malfunctions were eliminated, the fuel consumption returned to normal, but the patient still did not go ...

The other day I visited Barmaley again with the aim of: strangling the pump.

How he drove ... no, he didn’t! rushed! Again he began to squeeze into the seat, again the dynamics and throttle response returned ...

But the happiness was not long ... Having dashingly and quickly rode the day, the cockroach was warmed up ... No, it was not overheated, but the temperature arrow went to the middle, and the "dzhekichan" caught fire ...

I look into the radiator - I can't see the antifreeze ... I'm scratching my turnips ... well, then I'll find the antifreeze in the oil: I take out the dipstick, and there is less oil than the minimum, only at the tip of the dipstick ...

... this is for money, thought Stirlitz ...

I added a liter of oil, the level went to a minimum ... a liter of antifreeze ... leisurely, and carefully looking at what was happening, I traveled for another day - the oil remained at the same level, another liter was added with antifreeze ...

Aphids ... in the evening of the second day I started to change the oil, because it's time ... I bought a 6 liter canister of semi-synthetics, Kixx 5W30, which I was pouring before, I had to take the filter with Parts Mall PBA-010, because only he was available in the store ...

As usual, I drain the oil into a basin, remove the air filter box, then the first alarm bell rang out: the entire pipe between the filter and the turbine is already oozing with oil ... in the lower part it liquefied, and it burst along the seam ... 15 millimeters crack ... the whole turbine in shit ...

I grab the oil filter with my hands, and it’s in even more shit than the turbine ... Well, what can you expect, it’s standing under the turbine ... I put my hand into the turbine, I begin to move the impeller, and here it rang alarmingly so that my ears were already blocked ... and the radial backlash is such that the impeller knocks ...

A cash register clinked in my head, beating a check for thirty ...

I collected everything back in a depressed mood ... As a result, I broke the front bolt of the air filter box (there is no such bolt in the catalogs (28171E)), after which I rolled my head to the clamp that holds the burst pipe on the turbine ...

super hundred))) all work in mittens. I WILL DISCOVER THE SECRET! HAVE GLOVES LIKE SURGEONS!

yab at the great master looked if there was a delfai! you would be there with your own and seals at once zasralba.

you are so stupid! there are delphi and bosh)))) and fuck the chain off! strange video! just nothing!

“All this could be done without removing the chain and pump star.

I myself changed the injection pump for the first time in my life, and did not remove the chain. I did not expose any marks. I just unscrewed the bolt 19, pulled out the pump, put a new one and everything is OK. I haven't removed the radiator yet, and the overhead equipment belt, extra work.

This is not always possible. Chain tension does not always allow you to easily remove the injection pump. To avoid damage to the chain and sprocket, it is still recommended to remove the chain.

I wonder how you will do this if the inner chain holds the pump star

Thank you for the video!
If possible, show the replacement of the copper rings on the nozzles. It seems simple, but there are some nuances.

Please remove the video as you remove the glow plugs without removing the cylinder head

The main thing is to remove them from the cylinder head and not break them.I saw a diesel engine with chipped injectors, which they could not remove, they knocked on them with hammers.

I found interesting material on the Internet, according to the prompts, I adjusted it myself after accommodating the vaunted masters and felt the result immediately.
Maybe someone will also come in handy.

So :
Left wing view:

Windshield side view:

You need to start doing something with the injection pump by flushing it. Here are the links for flushing the injection pump.
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3433/bbs/phpBB2/view. hp? t = 14403
... ntry432483).
If the tank and in general the entire fuel system is clean enough, flushing can be omitted, but periodically add a nozzle cleaner directly to the tank. They say it's not worse if you use it periodically. If the tank and the pipes are full of dirt, we will clog the nozzles nafig. And no filter will help.

Before getting upset about the poor performance of the injection pump, you need to pay attention to the EGR valve. The valve bypasses part of the exhaust gases to the suction. About whether or not he should have written enough. But you need to try to turn it off - sometimes the engine is fully restored and you don't need to touch the high-pressure fuel pump. Well, then everyone decides for himself to ride with or without him. I muted it, and then deleted it altogether.

Also, with a worn out engine, we try to disconnect the crankcase ventilation pipe from the suction. Close the suction hole with a plug. Sometimes after that the engine is not recognized.

Further it is recommended to do the following: Unscrew bolt 14. Do not lose 2 copper rings. Although it is better to replace them with new ones. The bolt is on the fuel drain. It has a tiny little hole on the side. To prevent debris from getting into it, a mesh is installed in the bolt. In kerosene from the mesh with a brush, wash out the debris.

Idling adjustment screw 1. You can turn it boldly and without remembering how many revolutions. The risk of misaligning something is minimal, but it is possible that due to the knocked down other adjustments, it will not be possible to set the required speed. (In this case, we are taking the injection pump to the stand to regulate). We adjust on a hot engine. Revolutions - 750-800 rpm (the first division on the tachometer is 0, the second is 500, the third is 750, the fourth is 1000). Air conditioning and other crap everything should be turned off as much as possible. In this case, the vacuum regulator 9 should not tighten.
On some injection pumps, screw 1 was installed not where it is in the picture, but behind the injection pump. But he presses on the same lever and the adjustments are the same.

Regulator of increased idle speed 13 (fast XX regulator). With the air conditioner turned on, the automatic transmission torque converter, etc., with screws 2 and 3, set the speed of XX to 1100 rpm. If the gearbox is mechanical, up to 900 rpm is enough. We do it on a hot engine. The adjustment is very simple and it was not necessary to remember how it was. According to the rules, with clutch 2, we bring the traction almost close to the lever with the engine stopped (clearance is about 1 mm), and with screw 3 we adjust the speed. The diaphragm in the regulator 13 sometimes breaks. In this case, you can drive perfectly for a while, if you increase the speed of the twentieth century with the already known propeller 1. I drove without this regulator, and on the new injection pump it never was.

Screw 9 - screw for adjusting the maximum speed. It is hardly necessary to regulate. It is necessary to check, when the pedal is fully depressed, whether the lever 10 rests against the screw 9. The screw is responsible and it is hardly worth turning it. Actually, if we twist it, then we simply will not press the gas to the end as it was before. If the lever 10 does not reach the screw 9, then adjust the cable. This is already simple and I will not describe it. If according to the rules, then when the gas pedal is fully depressed, the revolutions at XX should increase to 4200. You can adjust it this way.

Screw 8 - screw for maximum fuel supply. The screw is EXTREMELY responsible. By twisting it, you can completely ruin all the work of the injection pump. In addition, it must be twisted by a fraction of a turn. Plus, it's hard to get to. Unscrewing the screw, we move the plunger drain ring to the right, thereby reducing the fuel supply.For example, when the turbine does not develop pressure, but we continue to drive, the screw can be unscrewed a little. Black smoke will disappear under heavy load, fuel consumption will decrease, and it will still be equally bad to pull the engine. With a sharp press on the gas pedal on the XX, a light cloud of black smoke should appear from the exhaust pipe, and then the exhaust is absolutely clean. This is optimal.

If there was a dirty antifreeze, the regulator 12 could get clogged with dirt. In this case, when the engine warms up, the increased speed will be kept for a very long time. We remove the tubes from it (antifreeze will flow!) And blow it with air.

INJECTION ANGLE ADJUSTMENT
The initial angle of the moment of fuel injection is adjusted by loosening the injection pump mounting bolts and turning it. For this injection pump, the injection moment is regulated by the indicator according to the instructions. The adjustment is standard and is described broadly in the instructions. Since the engine is not new, we make the injection angle a little earlier.
And in order to return the pump to its place after scrolling, initially put a small chisel on the injection pump and the mounting bracket, drip white paint and wipe it off. This will always allow you to restore everything as it was.

There is one more tricky screw 11. It stands on the device that adjusts the injection advance angle on a cold engine. The injection angle also depends on the position of the screw 11. By unscrewing the screw we obtain an earlier feed. The operation of the device is carried out using a cylinder 12, from which, when heated with antifreeze, the stem extends. At -20C and below, the injection angle will be as early as possible. When heated from -20C to + 50C, the injection angle becomes more and more late. The maximum late angle is obtained at + 50C and does not change further. At the same time, this device increases engine speed at low temperatures. The screw 11 can also adjust the initial angle of the moment of fuel injection. But by adjusting the injection angle, we will knock it down on a cold engine. Therefore, you can use it just to try to change the injection angle. This is convenient, since you can do everything without even turning off the engine. Then we restore everything and change the injection angle by the position of the injection pump.

In general, this problem was not only mine. And no one could really decide.

So. It's been almost 3.5 years since I bought Galloper. The maximum speed was 110 km / h. This is the limit. Turnover - 3100-3200. Even at idle speed above 3500 it was not possible to get it. BUT! At lower revs, everything was fine. And since I didn’t want to go fast, I didn’t look for a reason.

And now I have flushed the injection pump. Soon there was a terrible air leak through the fuel filter (not connected with flushing). The filter was replaced in a set from a Ford Mondeo 1.8TD. And he also hounds. I bought a repair kit for it. I've done everything. There is no suction anywhere. MAXIMUM SPEEDS at idle fell after that to 2500. You accelerate quickly - and then stop.

Having climbed the Internet, I found a discussion on some forum. I didn't take my own photos, but stole 2 photos from there. I think that they will not be offended, since it is written there that they want to lay out for the Gallopers.

So. The reason turned out to be small, very small. There is a bolt at the entrance to the injection pump. We wash everything around from dirt. We unscrew it:

At the same time, we do not lose 3 copper rings. Along the way, we will unscrew the clamp that secures the fuel supply pipe to the injection pump. To take this tube aside. We will take the copper rings home, heat them on gas until they are red and immediately throw them into cold water. They will become soft. Or buy new ones. With new ones, it is desirable to also perform a similar procedure.
We remove the spring from the hole.
In the depth of the hole (cm 5 from the surface) there is a small mesh. You can remove it either with a stick with cotton wrapped around it. Or, what is better, we take a stranded wire, expose the veins by 7 mm. We unbend them. We insert it inside and extract it together with the mesh:

We wash the mesh, blow it through. Fig it is cleared. Therefore, after that we carry it to the gas. We anneal a little. And again we rinse, blow through. Everything is clear.

Putting everything into place. The whole procedure was done under my window in the courtyard + in the apartment.It took about 20 minutes. I went. You can't recognize the car. The beast! In addition, the tapping at 3000 rpm disappeared.

Why does so much depend on this mesh? She stands at the entrance to the injection pump. When it becomes clogged, the injection pump begins to suck air through its seals. At low revs, it does not suck. At high vacuum, the vacuum is higher and the suction has gone.

The high pressure fuel pump has a centrifugal speed controller. It is located under the top cover. When cranking with the starter, it keeps the fuel supply at maximum. When working on the XX, it maintains the speed. If the engine is cold and the rpm is low, the fuel supply is automatically increased. If we turn on the air conditioner, the speed also drops. The regulator increases the fuel supply again.
Well, it looks like this. We turned on the air conditioner - the speed dropped slightly (it was almost not noticeable on the tachometer) and the engine continued to work as if nothing had happened.
And the vacuum regulator, when the air conditioner is turned on, additionally increases the speed. The air conditioner at XX begins to cool a little more. well that's all.
In general, I do not see any need for a vacuum regulator. Poorly justified complication of the design. I completely removed this system, including the pneumo-electric valve. BUT THAT'S MY PERSONAL OPINION. THIS TOPIC WAS A DISCUSSION. It is believed that without a vacuum regulator, the speed drops strongly. I don’t know who’s right. See for yourself. And for myself, I decided.
And removed the valve from the USR. I have no valves at all now. From the vacuum pump, the tube goes to the brake booster. No bends.

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message Serjj "25 Jul 2010, 13:20

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Message Serjj »28 Jul 2010, 19:16

Prices 9000. 9500 rub.

The timing 2. 3 days

Most often, employees of the authorized BOSCH service center in Moscow have to repair the Hyundai Starex injection pump installed on an electronically controlled D4BH diesel engine. The presence of high-precision electronic components makes the independent repair of the Hyundai Starex injection pump not only impractical and difficult, but also dangerous. Lack of qualifications in working with the fuel equipment of the latest generations of cars leads to unforgivable mistakes, which are expressed in unreasonable financial costs of the owners.

The recommended option for competent and prompt repair of the Hyundai Starex injection pump is to use the services of diesel technicians of the authorized BOSCH service center in Moscow. It is possible to accurately identify the malfunction and the cause of its occurrence using modern diagnostic equipment, which is available only from the official certified representatives of fuel equipment manufacturers in Russia. Symptoms of malfunctions indicating the need for urgent repair of the Hyundai Starex injection pump are similar to the symptoms of malfunctioning of the fuel equipment of any diesel engine.

• absence or difficult starting of the engine;
• intermittent motor operation;
• power dips, unstable rpm;
• sluggish acceleration of the car;
• the presence of visible leaks of fuel and the appearance of unfamiliar knocks in the pump area.

We remanufacture any brand of diesel engines with mechanical or electronic fuel injection control. Upon completion of the repair of the Hyundai Starex injection pump, its operation and compliance with the operating parameters are checked on a special test bench. If necessary, the foremen perform adjustment work, after which the client receives a guarantee for the repaired unit of the fuel system.