In detail: do-it-yourself refrigerator burning repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Built-in refrigerator Gorenje nrki 5181 lw. The lamp does not turn on when the door is opened, there is no indication on the display. It began with the fact that the illumination lamp stopped burning when the door was opened. The lamp was replaced with a working one. Does not burn. Suspicion fell on the reed switch. Perhaps out of order. I took out the indication board (the reed switch is mounted on it), after the indication board was returned to its place, all indication on the front panel disappeared (LEDs and temperature indicators are off). Question: which reed switch to replace - to close or open the circuit (I know the current 0.25A)? Tell me what to replace?
If the reed switch is damaged, the unit does not see the open door and does not turn on the hall lighting. cameras and indication. Unsolder the reed switch, short-circuit-open the rations. Lights turn on, display? If so, the problem is in the reed switch.
We have a built-in two-compartment refrigerator Gorenje rki 4181 aw with electromechanical control and one motor-compressor. The hall does not work. camera. The freezer is working. What kind of repairs does he need?
You may have a thermostat malfunction or a freon leak. It is necessary to replace the thermostat with a new one, or look for a leak, seal the place and refill the system.
I bought a two-compartment refrigerator Gorenje rc4180aw with electromechanical control a few days ago. Its noise level is 40 dC. But during operation, it emits extraneous noises: a whistle, sometimes it squeaks and it feels like something is ringing in the compressor. The noise is most audible at the top of the freezer compartment. The compressor is not Chinese. Can you please tell me what could be the reason?
Most likely, you are making sounds from one of the pipes on the back of the refrigerator. Move it aside and check. Nothing can knock in the freezer, because you have a model without No Frost. Also check the condensate vessel on the compressor, it may be loose.
After the purchase of the built-in refrigerator Combustion rki 5181 kw was installed in the kitchen and a year of trouble-free operation. About a year later, the compressor burned out, a master came and replaced it under warranty without explaining the reason for the failure. The unit started working, but the trouble is, after the temperature rises, it stops turning off. Recalling and replacing the solenoid valve did not solve the problem. After much deliberation, we decided to order a control module. The ordered module arrived, the replacement and the problem remained. The warranty is over, the master threw up his hands and left. Need good advice on restoration and repair.
They must have been walled up, and the compressor broke down due to overheating, the varnish went into the system, the valve jammed, and the circulation and heat exchange in the evaporators and condenser were disturbed.
I have a rc 4180 aw model with one compressor and two evaporators (in the cold box - on top and in the middle box - on the bottom). The flow is switched using the kmv 432 valve. Recently, the mk has stopped working (shows 0 and periodically), h.c. works and keeps the temperature. I called the master, he said that it was necessary to change the control unit. I myself am an electronics engineer, so I decided on my own to figure out the cause of the malfunction, I will always have time to replace the unit, especially since I do not believe in the breakdown of the board, because modern electronics is a fairly reliable thing. First, I removed the board from the connectors, and rang the temperature sensors. There are 4 of them in total, and they turned out to be all serviceable (resistance is about 4-5 lump). I checked the valve, it also switches, i.e. when you turn off the h.c., then the temperature in mk starts to decrease, when you turn on the h.c. back, then switching occurs again to it, and in m.c. the temperature starts to rise. Who will tell you what could be the matter? I do not believe that the control board is to blame.
If the compressor works for a long time and rests very little, then you have a weak freon pressure. Most likely, the electronics are working properly.
Freezing has appeared inside the Gorenje rkv 42200 e two-compartment refrigerator under the freezer, which is located at the top, before this was not the case. It works constantly and does not turn off.
Check the seals for mechanical damage, and also check the thermal relay. Most likely, the hole that removes water from the freezer is frozen over, so some of the water gets into the chamber. The unit must be thoroughly defrosted.
Built-in two-compartment refrigerator Gorene rki 5181 kw. He began to squeak very often, as if his door was open. And the second problem is that the light bulb inside does not shine. If you turn it off, the light comes on, and when it starts to get cold, it goes out again.
The squeak of the refrigerator means insufficient temperature in one of its chambers. This could be due to a malfunction of the control module or a failure in one of the temperature sensors. A situation with a light bulb may indicate a breakdown in the control module or in the light bulb itself.
Built-in two-compartment refrigerator Gorene nrki 5181 lw (with electronic control, No Frost system and drip defrost system). The refrigerator compartment does not freeze, but in the freezer, on the contrary, the temperature dropped to -24 degrees. What could be the reason? Cold first. the department began to work, the walls were covered with snow, and then after 15-20 minutes everything began to thaw. Tried turning it on / off several times. Result: in the freezer -24, refrigeration +9 degrees blinks, the button on the sensor does not fix.
Because in your model drip defrost system cold. camera, then its work with the thawing of drops is an absolutely normal system. Drops are formed because the evaporator behind the plastic and after switching off the droplets condense and drain into the drain. Do not worry about this. Turn on -16-18 degrees in the freezer, and + 5 + 7 in the refrigerator, and leave the unit alone for a couple of days, without turning it on or off, it will work normally.
After 5 years of flawless operation, the Gorenje rkv 42200 e refrigerator (a conventional two-chamber with one compressor) began to freeze the ice cap on the back wall of the hall. cameras. The thermostat was set to position 2-3, but it did not help. At the same time, the freezer also freezes strongly (there is an ice coat), and the unit itself works equally without any changes. What is the reason, can I eliminate
the problem yourself?
Technique of the Gorenje brand is really distinguished by its impeccable performance and reliability. In your case, if you have never defrosted both chambers in 9 years, we recommend that you carry out this procedure. That is, at 12-24, completely de-energize the equipment, then wipe it and turn it on empty. After one hour of operation with an empty machine, you can put food back in place. If you regularly (at least once a year)
defrost it, there may be a blockage in the capillary system. In this case, the ice (“fur coat”) freezes unevenly (usually more to the right edge). In this case, you will not be able to repair it on your own, you need to call the master to “breakdown” the blockage.
Refrigerator gorenje nrki 5181 cw (built-in, electronically controlled and no frost freezer compartment). On the 3rd year of operation, it began to behave strangely. When the door is opened, the backlight goes out, the compressor turns off and the display with the temperature goes out and immediately turns on and continues to work normally. If you open the door when the compressor is not working, then everything is fine. Tell me where to look and what to do?
Only a qualified master will help.
Refrigerator Gorenje model rki 4181 aw (built-in). The backlight does not turn off even when the door is closed. Tell me how to carry out repairs?
Most likely, the fault lies in the reed switch.
Tell me, what temperature sensor is used on the evaporator of the Gorenje rc 4180 aw refrigerator?
Any 6K temperature sensor can be installed.
There is a problem with the refrigerator Combustion. Freezes behind the back of the freezer. The last time it froze so badly that the lid bent and the 2 upper drawers did not move to the end. The high temperature alarm in the freezer is often turned on, although the screen shows that everything is normal -16. Sometimes there are loud clicks, crackling. And the left outer wall is heated (in the area of the freezer). The rest works fine. We defrost it every 2-3 months.
It is normal for the side walls to warm up. The fact is that in modern refrigerators the condenser (black tubes) is not installed on the back wall, but inside the side walls. That is why the side walls are heated. But if the ice freezes on the back side and the hot walls are straight, it can mean the following malfunctions: Freon leakage in the foamed part (cabinet). There is not enough freon in the system and evaporates inside the cabinet. From this, the wall swelled, you can check the leakage by defrosting the unit. If it does not work, and the wall swells even more, then this is a leak; Clogged capillary tube. Freon does not pass through the system. The system needs to be cleaned.
Tell me the error codes of refrigerators Burning and what do they mean?
Error E2 - There was a malfunction in the freezer chamber.
Error E4 - There is a malfunction of the cooling chamber temperature sensor.
Error E6 - Simultaneous failure of the temperature sensors of the freezing and cooling compartments of the x-ka.
Error F5 - Instability of the current in the mains, voltage fluctuations up to 255V.
Error F6 - Damaged refrigeration compressor. cameras.
Error F7 - A defect has been detected in the freezer compressor.
Error H - Exceeding the maximum permissible temperature in any of the chambers.
Error L - The temperature in the chambers has dropped to critical values.
Some models use light indexing instead of a display to alert owners of problems. Depending on the number of the indicator and the frequency of its blinking, the master can determine the direction of the upcoming repair work.
Indicator number 3 (constant / blinking) - The compressor of the refrigerating chamber is OK / Failure of the temperature sensor of the refrigerating chamber.
Indicator number 4 (constant / blinking frequency 0.5 Hz) - Stable operation of the freezer compressor / The temperature sensor of the freezer compartment is damaged.
Indicator number 4 (blinking frequency 2 Hz / blinking frequency 5 Hz) - Defective memory controller detected / Simultaneous failure of the controller and temperature sensor.
Indicator number 6 (steady / blinking) - Emergency freeze mode / High temperature in freezer compartment is on.
These models are additionally equipped with a sound notification system for several frequently made errors and malfunctions. If the doors are not tightly closed or if they are open for more than 1 minute, the buzzer will sound a continuous beep. Its intermittent sound indicates a malfunction of the freezer compartment cooling system.
Possible problems
All malfunctions that arise during their operation are primarily associated with either "surges" of electrical voltage, or with the negligence of users referring to this household appliance without due attention. Factory defects are extremely rare.
The most common reasons for contacting a service center are a weakly freezing (or not at all freezing) freezer, a lack of cold in the cold. chamber, accumulation of water under the equipment or in the refrigerator, the appearance of a sound signal (alert).
What to look for. The weak point of the models of this brand is the electronics and controls (the standard system is made up of temperature sensors, a controller and a display). They are very sensitive to voltage drops, even small ones, as a result of which they lose their performance or completely fail.
Also, the repair of refrigerators Burning can be caused by the appearance of microcracks in the evaporator, breakdown of the water drain tank, leakage of refrigerant (liquid volatile substance, without which the unit cannot work in principle). An audible alert is a clear signal indicating a technical problem.
Repair of equipment of this brand is required in the event of the following malfunctions: rare activation of the motor-compressor; the motor-compressor works without shutdown; the light is on when the cabinet door is closed; moisture insulation; thermostat malfunction; violation in the mounting of the relay; failure of the starting relay; violation in the mounting of the start-up relay; damage to the start-up relay; snow "coat" on the walls of the evaporator; failure of the thermostat.
Anyway DIY Gorenje refrigerator repair It is classified into three levels: light, medium and capital (recovery), implying the replacement of large units. The troubleshooting process begins with competent diagnostics, which, step by step, leads to a failed unit or element.
By resorting to the analysis of electrical faults, it can be concluded that most often, do-it-yourself refrigerator repair, it is necessary to change the motor-compressor, electronic control module or sensors installed inside the chambers.
However, not in all situations, restoring the refrigerator's performance is associated with such serious malfunctions and, as a result, high costs.
A commonplace situation is the failure of the system, in which the motor-compressor is not even turned on. As a result, there is no movement in the refrigerant circuit and no cooling process takes place. There may be a number of reasons for this. At low mains voltage, modern electronics switch on protection and do not connect the compressor, in order to avoid its failure during start-up. Therefore, immediately you need to make sure that there is voltage and its proper level. As a rule, all devices operate normally within a supply voltage range of 200 to 240V. A relay is responsible for turning on the compressor, while another contactor is installed for thermal protection of the motor. It is easy to check both switches for the resistance of the armature winding and for the closure of the contacts according to the circuit wiring.
In addition, more trivial reasons can also shift the temperature regime inside the chambers. For example, the contact on the rubber door seal may be broken. It can be partially restored by using oil by lubricating the rubber surface to soften. Ultimately, the seal must be replaced. The operation of the compressor, and therefore the temperature of the modes, is directly influenced by the thermistors and the operation of the electronic module. The latter controls all processes inside the refrigerator and is subject to voltage fluctuations. Most often, as a result of these, you have to reflash the controller using a low-level programming technique.Relevant in such cases is the work on checking the capillary tube and filter of the dryer of the gas system for clogging. The failure of the solenoid valve for switching the refrigerant supply is not excluded.
The creation of excessively cold conditions inside the chambers indicates a faulty thermostat. Failures in sensors and errors in the operation of the control module also remain possible options.
Often situations that cause repair work are the appearance of water under the refrigerator or ice inside the chambers. Qualified repair of refrigerators Do-it-yourself burning should be focused on checking the drainage pipes through which moisture is removed. The blockage means that the water does not reach its final destination, which is the sump above the compressor and spills onto the floor. Replacing pipes is not a laborious process, even for an inexperienced craftsman. But it can freeze the refrigerator due to the ingress of freon into the chambers through microcracks in the system. They should be identified and soldered.
The noise during the operation of a new electrical appliance is probably due to the fact that you need to re-level the refrigerator. And after replacing the compressor, increased decibels clearly indicate that the motor is incorrectly installed and occupies the wrong position. In devices with the No Frost system, the fan may operate noisily, requiring opening and lubrication.
Refrigerator repair Gorene at home (video)
The quality of the repair can be judged not only by the process itself or the initial result. Taking original components for installation, in the absence of compelling external factors, we can talk about a guarantee for the assembly from the manufacturer's plant. Surely, such a repair will extend the life of the refrigerator, without forcing you to remember the malfunction for many years.
Is there an error in the Gorenie refrigerator? This happens when there is a problem with the system. Then the self-test displays an error code on the display, or the indicators on the panel blink. How to determine the meaning of symbols? For this, there is an instruction manual, as well as our article.
As soon as you notice a malfunction on the scoreboard, reboot the equipment to exclude a system failure. How to do it:
- Unplug the refrigerator for 10-15 minutes.
- Plug back in.
- Look at the scoreboard.
Are the icons glowing? Then start decrypting and troubleshooting.
In the event of a breakdown, the "Combustion" unit can react by flashing indicators.
- Press on the door more firmly.
- Check the integrity of the seal, replace it.
- Set the thermostat to a low value.
- Defrost the refrigerator (at least 24 hours).
- Make sure the fan and compressor are working properly.
To avoid trouble, adhere to the operating rules:
- Install the refrigerator away from heating appliances, stoves.
- Connect only to a grounded outlet with an RCD circuit breaker.
- Defrost and clean the appliance every six months.
- Do not fill the shelves with hot food.
If you cannot find the breakdown yourself, and the error does not disappear from the screens, contact the service center.
The refrigerator most often breaks down at the most inopportune moment. What was the reason, how serious the breakdown is, how it can be fixed - the summary table of refrigerator malfunctions will help to answer these questions.
Classic refrigerator (without No Frost system) works as follows:
Now that we are familiar with the refrigerator device, we propose the following sequence of actions:
Try to identify the problem. in the vast majority of cases, this is not difficult by following the instructions for troubleshooting.
If possible, repair it yourself. A person who is familiar with the device of the refrigerator and has a minimum set of tools is able to eliminate most of the malfunctions not related to depressurization of the system.
If self-repair is not possible, choose a company, determine the cost of repairs and call a master.
At the end of the repair, adhere to the recommendations for operating the refrigerator.
The sequence of actions to identify the failed part and recommendations for repair. For compressor refrigerators without No Frost system.
Check the voltage in the outlet, it should be in the range of 200-240 Volts, if this is not the case, the refrigerator is not obliged to work (although it may work for a while, especially the old models.)
All repair work must be carried out with the refrigerator unplugged and defrosted!
a) Check if the light inside the refrigerator is on, if it used to be on, but now it is off - there is a malfunction in the power cord or electrical plug (this is a fairly common malfunction and it is not necessary to call a refrigerator repair technician to fix it).
b) If the light comes on, the first thing to do is to check the thermostat:
- we find two wires suitable for the thermostat, remove them from the terminals and connect them together. If
the refrigerator will then work - we change the thermostat and the repair is completed.
c) If the thermostat is working properly. In the same way, we check the button for defrosting the refrigerator.
d) For further diagnostics, you will need an ohmmeter. We disconnect and call the starting and protective relay (they can be assembled in one case), if we find an open circuit, we replace the defective part.
e) The electric motor of the motor-compressor remains, it is difficult to replace it without the participation of a specialist, but since we got to it, it is worth finding out what exactly the malfunction is. There may be three defects in this unit:
- winding breakage;
- turn-to-turn closure of the winding;
- short circuit to the motor compressor case;
How to identify them is generally clear: all three contacts of the electric motor should ring among themselves and not ring with the case. If the resistance between any two contacts is less than 20 ohms, this may indicate an interturn closure.
f) If you carefully completed the previous points and did not find a malfunction, this most likely indicates oxidation of the contacts in one of the connections of the refrigerator electrical circuit. Carefully inspect and clean all the contact groups that you disassembled, restore the refrigerator circuit in the reverse order - the refrigerator should work.
1 - electric motor
motor-compressor
1.1 - working winding
1.2 - starting winding
3 - thermostat contacts
10 - defrost button
11 - protection relay
11.1 - bimetallic plate
11.2 - relay contacts
12 - starting relay
12.1 - relay coil
12.2 - relay contacts
a) Defect in the bimetallic plate 11.1 of the protective relay: determine the malfunction and replace the part.
b) Defective coil (or other current sensor) 12.1 starting relay: determine the malfunction and replace the part.
c) Breakage of the starting winding of the electric motor 1.2: we determine the malfunction and call the repairman of refrigerators to replace the motor-compressor.
a) Freon leakage: Determined as follows - if the compressor is running and the amount of freon is normal, the condenser should heat up, touch it with your hand (carefully, it can heat up to 70 degrees), if after prolonged engine operation it remains cold, then the system is depressurizing ... Disconnect the refrigerator from the network and call the wizard.
b) Violation of the thermostat regulation. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one, if the refrigerator works in normal mode - return the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
c) Decreased performance of the motor-compressor. This is a hard-to-diagnose malfunction, call the wizard
a) Violation of the thermostat regulation.The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one, if the refrigerator works in normal mode - return the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
b) The rubber of the refrigerator door seal has lost its shape and elasticity. If the door does not close tightly, warm air will enter the refrigerator, the temperature regime will not be maintained and the motor-compressor will work with increased load. Carefully inspect the seal, defective - replace. (see also next point)
c) The door of the refrigerator led. The door geometry is adjusted by changing the tension of the two diagonal rods located under the door panel. For more information on how to adjust the door, see Removing gaps in refrigerator doors.
d) Decreased performance of the motor-compressor. This is a hard-to-diagnose malfunction, call the wizard
a) If the refrigerator turns off from time to time, but the temperature in it is too low - slightly turn the thermostat knob counterclockwise, if this does not help - see Violation of the thermostat adjustment
b) The fast freezing button is forgotten in the pressed position - turn it off.
Many malfunctions that subsequently lead to costly repairs to the refrigerator arise as a result of improper operation of the unit. Here are some simple tips:
a) If the refrigerator has been turned off for any reason, wait five minutes before turning it on again. This process can be automated, see the timer to delay the inclusion of the refrigerator
b) If the refrigerator has been defrosted, do not load it with food before it runs empty for one cycle and turns off.
c) Do not set the thermostat pointer further than the middle of the scale, this will not give a significant gain in temperature, and the engine will work in a tense mode.
d) On some refrigerators, a “crying evaporator” is located in the back of the refrigerator compartment (on the back wall). Do not lean food against it and do not forget to clean the water drain underneath.
e) When defrosting the refrigerator, it is unacceptable to pick off the ice using hard objects, defrost only with warm water.
f) On some refrigerators there is a “quick freeze” button (usually yellow) this button closes the thermostat contacts and the engine runs without shutting down. Do not forget this button is pressed.
g) Do not store vegetable oil in the refrigerator, oil is not required, and the rubber of the refrigerator door seal loses its elasticity.
h) Do not place the refrigerator near heating appliances.
The reason for the appearance of water in the refrigerating chamber is defrosting, as a result of improper operation or loss of tightness. Even a small puddle is a bad sign. The refrigerator has time to thaw and flow - look for leaks, as a rule, the sealing rubber does not fit tightly in the door. However, the reason may be trivial, the refrigerator doors were not closed tightly.
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